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- Path: sparky!uunet!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!csrd.uiuc.edu!sp1.csrd.uiuc.edu!poulsen
- From: poulsen@sp1.csrd.uiuc.edu (David K. Poulsen)
- Subject: Re: 1988 Mazda 323 rotors
- Message-ID: <1992Jul21.175932.5239@csrd.uiuc.edu>
- Sender: news@csrd.uiuc.edu
- Organization: UIUC Center for Supercomputing Research and Development
- References: <1992Jul20.160808.24131@mixcom.com>
- Distribution: usa
- Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 17:59:32 GMT
- Lines: 52
-
- kevin.jessup@mixcom.mixcom.com (kevin.jessup) writes:
-
- >I have a question regarding "normal wear and tear" on 1988 Mazda 323 rotors.
-
- >I had a brake job on my '88 323 in Feb of this year. The usual stuff,
- >rotors ground, pads, seals and stuff replaced. I had the front (discs) and
- >rear (drums) done.
-
- >This past month, I noticed the brake pedal pulses and the steering shakes
- >when applying the brakes after they have heated up. The dealer confirmed
- >my suspicion that the rotors were warping under the heat because they are
- >now to thin!
-
- >The car has only 45000 miles, damn it! And no, as the dealer suggested,
- >I don't "ride the brake". Is this a common problem? I don't want to
- >replace shoes AND rotors every 45k. Next time, I'll have to do the
- >calipers too! This is getting way too expensive.
-
- >Also, I've had the valve-cover gasket replaced 3 times in 4 years.
- >Any one else having trouble with these lemons?
-
- >The fist AND LAST Mazda I'll ever buy!!
-
- I have had similar problems with Toyota Corollas (or Chevy Novas, Geo Prisms,
- whatever). My '87 Nova is on its 3rd set of rotors at 75K miles. The first
- set were replaced at 12K miles under warranty. The second set I replaced
- myself at 30K, and the third set now on there has lasted for quite a bit longer
- now with much less problems. There are a few problems with the particular
- disk brake design on these cars. The rotors and calipers are not built very
- sturdy, and you have to be much more careful about how you treat them.
-
- What I do now to save my rotors is do my own brake work. It's surprisingly
- easy (see your local library for a Chilton book if you don't know how). When
- you're checking the brakes, look for the usual scarring/lines on the rotors
- that normal wear causes. Take the rotors to your local auto parts shop /
- machine shop and have them turned. I don't think I'd turn a set of rotors
- more than once; after that I'd replace them. If the rotors cannot be turned
- or need to be replaced, buy new ones from a good auto parts store (my
- experience is that dealer rotors were actually inferior parts to what I
- could buy on my own). Finally, and this is what really saved me, whenever
- you take off the wheels, put them back on with a torque wrench. Most of
- my problem is that overtorquing the lug nuts (or using an air wrench on
- them) is what's causing the rotors to dish.
-
- Another thing is the question of who's doing the service. Consider trying
- another mechanic? In any case, good quality parts are a must.
-
- I don't really think this is Mazda-specific ... it may or may not be a reason
- to not buy Mazdas, but I think part of the problem is inherent in some of
- the new, small-car brake designs.
-
- DP
-