The World of Computer Software/World_Of_Computer_Software-02-387-Vol-3of3.iso/t/texscout.zip/GPO3.DOC

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 HOW TO DEAL WITH MOTOR VEHICLE EMERGENCIES
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-----------------------------
 BACKGROUND
-----------------------------
  Imagine what would happen if you were driving your car and suddenly
the throttle stuck wide open.  Or what if you applied the brakes and
the car didn't slow down?  What would you do if your car's lights went
out when you were driving at night? Would you know what to do if the
steering locked so that you couldn't control the direction you were
going?  If a fire broke out under your hood, would you know what to do?
What if your engine began to overheat in a traffic jam?
  At some time during their lifetime, most drivers encounter at least
one emergency situation involving a malfunction of their vehicle which,
if not handled promptly and correctly, can result in an accident,
injury, or death.
  The purpose of this database is to describe some of the most common
emergency situations and how they can be handled, with accident
prevention and the safety of motorists and innocent pedestrians being
the prime concern.
  The discussion that follows is intended primarily for those drivers
relatively inexperienced in coping with emergency malfunctions in their
vehicles. This database does not cover emergency situations requiring
major repairs and the use of a tow truck or wrecker to move a vehicle,
such as a blown engine, broken axle, or loss of a wheel.

--------------------------------
  First Rule of Crash Avoidance
--------------------------------
  The best way to avoid accidents caused by something going wrong with
your car is to keep it in safe running condition.
  You should inspect your car regularly to make sure it is ready to be
driven safely.  Your car's Owner's Manual tells you what to check, how
often, and how to do it.  If you don't what to do this kind of thing
yourself, ask a service station attendent to do it for you. But, there
are certain things you should know and be able to do yourself.
  For example, there are certain things you should have in your car for
emergencies:  a fire extinguisher (approved for vehicle use) that is
accessible and in good condition, a set of flares or other highway
warning devices, a flashlight that works, and some spare fuses. (Do you
know where your fuse panel is located?) You should also know how to use
a jack to change a tire.  And make sure your spare tire is fully
inflated (unless it is the type designed to be stored deflated and
inflated by use of a pressurized canister when needed) and in good
condition.
  There are some things you should do virtually every day that you use
your car. Some things can be done when you get gasoline.  Other things
need be done only every few months or few thousand miles of travel.

--------------------------------
 DAILY CHECKUPS
--------------------------------
  The driver of a motor vehicle should perform a few safety checks
whenever the vehicle is driven.  This is particularly important with a
car that the driver doesn't own or drive regularly.  Many checks can
be done almost unconsciously by observing the lights and gauges on the
instrument panel, or by taking a quick look around the outside and
inside of the car.
  A casual look at the tires before getting in the car may show one
that is dangerously underinflated or worn out, or with a bubble in the
sidewall. Inside the car, a casual glance at the gas gauge will tell
the driver whether he should fill the tank so as to avoid running out
of gas on the highway.  An oil pressure light slow to go out may
indicate a serious potential engine problem. Applying the brakes before
engaging a driving gear will give an indication of whether the brakes
are operating normally.  A check of the lights, including those on the
instrument panel, and a functional check of the windshield wipers and
washer are also good precautions.  Make sure your warning lights and
sensors are operating properly (oil pressure, brake failure, seat
belts, temperature, alternator/generator).  Make sure the window glass
is clean, both inside and outside.
  Probably the most important safety check is whether you and your
passengers have their safety belts fastened properly. Despite the care
you take of your car, and the care you take in driving, you still may
be involved in a crash.  Your safety belts are the best insurance you
can have to minimize injuries or the chances of death in a collision.
Also remember, raising and adjusting the head restraints helps to
prevent whiplash if another vehicle runs into yours.
  Finally, when the car begins to move, abnormal looseness in the
steering or a pulling to the right or left can be felt in the hands.
Problems such as these require immediate attention.

--------------------------------
  WEEKLY/MONTHLY CHECKUPS
--------------------------------
  About once a week, such as when you fill your gas tank, there are a
number of checks that should be done on a car. You can do these
yourself; particularly if you get gasoline at a self-serve pump, or
you can ask the service station attendant to help you.
  Your car has many different fluids that should be checked regularly.
For example, you have oil in your engine and transmission that can
generally be checked by observing the fluid level on a dip stick
located under the hood. (Manual transmissions are more difficult to
check, but need be checked only when the car is lubricated and
serviced, or if the transmission is making strange noises or its
performanced feels odd.) Brake fluid, power steering fluid, radiator
coolant, and battery water should be checked at least once a month, or
as the Owner's Manual recommends.  Also be sure that the windshield
washer is filled.
  Your tires are particularly important to your safety.  Check the air
pressure in your tires every other week, or after major changes in
temperature - especially warm to very cold. Buy your own tire gauge,
because many of the gauges at service facilities may be off by several
pounds per square inch. While checking your tires, examine the tread
depth remaining and look for bubbles, erratic treadwear, signs of
tread separation, or other abnormalities, and replace suspect tires.
Also look for stones or pieces of glass in the tire grooves and
carefully remove them.  If you notice a nail in the tire don't remove
it as the tire may go flat; instead, remove the tire, mount your
spare, and take the tire to a service facility for nail removal and
tire repair.  Be sure not to forget to check the spare tire.
  Tire pressure should be checked when the tires are cold. Tires
should be inflated according to recommendations provided by the
vehicle manufacturer. Such recommendations are found on the door
pillar or in the glove compartment, and in your Owner's Manual.
Never let a tire salesman sell you tires not recommended in your
Owner's Manual.  If an alternate size tire may be used on your vehicle,
it will be indicated in your Owner's Manual.
  Note:  For better fuel economy, you can increase cold inflation
pressures by UP TO four pounds over the recommended pressure.  But NEVER
exceed the recommended maximum pressure molded on the tire sidewall.
This little extra pressure will also let your tires run cooler.
  Your lights are also important to your safety.  Turn on the lights
and walk around the car to make sure that all of them are working.
Have someone inside the car apply the brakes to be sure the brake
lights work, and try the turn signals in the right and left turn
positions to be sure they are working - front and rear.  The headlights
should be kep clean as well - dirty headlights give out much less light.
  Similarly, the rearview mirrors (inside and side-mounted) should be
kept clean and properly adjusted, and periodically checked for looseness.
  Check the car for unusual noises or other things that might signal
trouble. A squeal from under the hood, particularly when the engine is
raced, may mean a loose fan belt.  Drips under the car (in the area
where you usually park your car, for example) may mean that some vital
fluid is leaking out.  Do you smell or hear anything in the car that
might mean that the exhaust system is leaking? Does the handbrake
(parking brake) hold the car on a hill?  Are the steering or brakes
loose or spongy?  Does the engine run roughly or stall after it has been
run for a few minutes?
  Any of these may be signs that the car needs immediate and proper
servicing.

--------------------------------
  PERIODIC SERVICING
--------------------------------
  You should take your car to a service establishment periodically (or
when signs of trouble develop), for regular maintenance and routine
safety checks.  Some people even like to do this work themselves. Your
car's Owner's Manual gives information on what needs to be done, how
often, and in many cases, how it should be done. Some of the more
complex services will require use of a shop manual applicable to your
vehicle.  If you are capable of taking on some of the more difficult
tasks yourself, and choose to do so, you can usually purchase a shop
manual from the manufacturer or at a bookstore.
  Some of the things done in periodic maintenance involved checking:
condition of the belts and hoses under the hood; brake linings,
cyclinders, and hoses (for wear and leaks);  the exhaust system;
steering and suspension system components; wheel alignment (uneven
tire tread wear may be a sign of the need to realign the wheels); and
engine adjustments. Filters, oil, and some other components are usually
checked or replaced and the vehicle lubricated.
  Despite the care you take of the car you own or drive, problems can
still develop while you are driving.  The rest of this database will
discuss the most common emergencies that can occur on the road and what
you can do if they happen to you.

--------------------------------
  Stopping On The Highway
--------------------------------
  Many of the emergency situations that will be described require
stopping on the highway.  Stopping on a highway for any reason is
dangerous.  If you must stop on a highway, observe the following
precautions:
  * If the highway has paved shoulders, signal your intention to pull
    off the highway, pull off at near traffic speed, then slow down.
    If the shoulder is unpaved, signal a right turn and slow down to
    a safe speed before pulling off the paved roadway.
  * In dusk, darkness, or bad weather, leave your low-beam headlights
    on, turn on your interior lights and your four-way flashers.
  * If you have to stop in a risky location, (e.g., over the crest of a
    hill or on a curve), get everyone out of the car and well away from
    traffic.
  * Place a flare or other warning device just behind the car and
    another at least 300 feet farther back.  Check for these before
    staring to drive.
  * If you need help, raise the hood and tie a white cloth to the
    antenna  or left door handle.
    Note:  It should be pointed out that the hazard (emergency) lights
    on most cars WILL NOT operate when the brakes are applied;  therefore,
    once you are off the road (or if stranded on the road), you should
    shut off the engine, put the car in "park," apply the parking brake,
    AND TAKE YOUR FOOT OFF THE BRAKE PEDAL.

--------------------------------
  Throttle Sticking
--------------------------------
  Imagine that you're driving along a street or highway and for some
reason you must slow down.  You take your foot off the accelerator (which
controls the throttle), but the accelerator pedal does not return to its
normal position and the car continues to speed on.  Or, what if the
accelerator pedal suddenly goes down to the floor, and the car lurches
forward at a high rate of speed, even though you've taken your foot off
the accelerator.  What can you do?
  Turn your IGNITION to OFF and APPLY the BRAKES.  But be sure you turn
the key to OFF, not LOCK.  On most cars you can't turn the steering
wheel when the key is in the lock position.
  Note:  OFF means any key position that will turn off the engine BUT
NOT LOCK the steering.  Ignition systems on vehicles vary.  Make sure you
know which position will cut the engine without locking the steering.
  Also NOTE, if you have power steering and power brakes, turning off
the ignition will require increased physical effort to steer and brake
the car as the car slows down. Don't pump the brakes as this will deplete
the vacuum in the booster, apply the brakes firmly and some power may be
retained.
  As the car slows down, guide it off the roadway, if possible.
  After you stop the car, look for the source of trouble.  The
accelerator pedal may be binding on the floor mat or the rug in your
car, and you can easily free the pedal by moving the rug or mat.
  If this isn't the case, and if you know something about engines, look
in your engine compartment and check the accelerator linkage.  Some of
the parts may be stuck and binding, and a little oil (from the dipstick
used to check your oil) may solve the problem.
  If you can't locate and remedy the problem (it may be caused by a
broken or missing accelerator return spring or by a broken motor mount),
DON'T DRIVE THE CAR.  Get help so the problem can be corrected.
  If you think you've corrected the problem, make certain before driving
the car.  Apply the emergency (or parking) brake firmly, put the gear
selector in PARK or NEUTRAL, and start the car.  Exercise the accelerator
pedal a few times to make sure it returns to its normal position after
you remove your foot from the pedal.  Then put the car in gear and try
pressing the accelerator part-way down a few times before releasing the
parking brake and proceeding on your way.

--------------------------------
  Brake Failure
--------------------------------
  Newer cars have a split braking system designed to reduce the
possibility of total brake failure (such as the loss of brakes on all
four wheels). They have a warning light on the instrument panel that
lights up when your brakes are failing because of the loss of pressure
in the braking system.  If the BRAKE FAILURE light comes on, slow down,
pull off the road, and don't proceed until you have the problem corrected
or determine that you can drive safely to the nearest service facility.
Because of the split braking system, the chances are that you will have
some braking power left when the BRAKE FAILURE LIGHT comes on, but you
may have to apply more force to the brake pedal and will need a greater
distance to stop.  If half of the braking system remains, proceed
cautiously to the nearest service station or garage.
  But, if you have a COMPLETE BRAKE FAILURE, what can you do to stop?
There are several things you can try, but you must act rapidly.
  * First, get off the highway onto the shoulder or other clear area,
    if possible.
  * Try PUMPING your BRAKES rapidly to bring up your brake pressure.
  * If pumping doesn't work, put the GEAR SELECTOR in a LOWER RANGE (D1
    or extra low in cars with automatic transmissions or shift to a lower
    gear in cars with manual transmissions) to obtain some braking power
    from the engine, and APPLY the EMERGENCY OR PARKING BRAKE with
    increased force.  On vehicles with no manual parking or emergency
    brake release lever, use a modulated pressure on the pedal, as
    necessary, to prevent total locking of brakes.

  If your brakes fail on a hill or mountain grade and the above remedies
do not work, look for something to side swipe - a snowbank, a guardrail,
dirt mounds on the side of the road, or anything that will slow you down.

--------------------------------
  Loss Of Steering
--------------------------------
  Loss of steering can occur suddenly and without warning, Something in
the steering mechanism or its related components may break, fall off, or
jam, leaving the driver with no control of the car's direction.  (Partial
loss in power-assist steering can occur if a drive belt breaks; steering
control is not lost, but it requires additional effort.)
  In such situations there is little you can do except to APPLY THE
BRAKES to come to a STOP as quickly as possible. While applying the
brakes, some WARNING to other motorists and pedestrians may be possible
by turning on your EMERGENCY FLASHERS, using your HEADLIGHTS, BLOWING
YOUR HORN, and using HAND SIGNALS.  (See previous note on EMERGENCY
FLASHERS.)
  When your car finally comes to a halt, try to move it off the roadway.
Assistance from passing motorists or pedestrians may be sufficient to
turn the wheels by hand enough to permit pushing the vehicle off the
roadway.  Before such action is attempted, position your emergency warning
devices (flares or highway triangular warning signs) to alert other
motorists using the road.
  Do not try to drive the car until you get the steering repaired or
until you get a wrecker to move the car to a repair facility.  Lift the
hood of the car and attach a white cloth to your radio antenna or door
handle to indicate to other motorists or police that you need assistance.
  Steering problems are often preceded by such symptoms as extreme
tightness in the steering, that indicate something is binding or
obstructing the mechanism, or extreme looseness.  If your car develops
such symptoms, have the problem diagnosed and remedied at once.

--------------------------------
 Loss of Power-Assisted Braking And Steering
--------------------------------
  To those accustomed to power steering or power brakes, a malfunction
in the system providing the power may lead the driver to think his brakes
or steering have failed.  If your car is equipped with these power
features, and if suddenly find that steering is more difficult, or the
brakes will not respond when you touch the brake pedal, you can still
steer and brake. It takes considerably more effort, but it can be done.
Proceed with caution until you reach a safe parking spot and call a tow
truck.

--------------------------------
  Fires
--------------------------------
  Vehicle fires are generally caused by a fault in the electrical system
or by leakage in the fuel system (except for those caused by carelessness,
such as ash tray or upholstery fires caused by lighted cigarettes, cigars,
or pipe ashes.) Fires in the vicinity of the gas tank are potentially the
most hazardous.
  If you see or smell smoke or see flames coming from your car,
immediately pull off the road to a safe spot, turn off the ignition, get
all passengers out of the car and remain at a great distance from it.
Warn motorists and passersby of the danger, and have someone call the
nearest fire department.
  Every vehicle should have a fire extinguisher for emergencies, and it
should be a type recommended for use in a motor vehicle.
  If you have a fire extinguisher, whether you should try to put out the
fire or not is a matter of judgement, depending on the severity of the
fire and the risk involved.  If the fire is severe or is a fuel-fed fire,
or the fire is in the vicinity of the gas tank, stand clear and get others
clear of the vehicle and wait for the fire department.
  If you do attempt to put out an under-the-hood fire, be careful when
raising the hood. Use the rag to cover your hand when releasing the hood
latch so that you don't get burned.  Also turn your head aside as the
hood is released to prevent facial burns from flashing flames.
  Finally, don't attempt to drive the car until the cause of the blaze
is determined and the problem corrected, including any damage caused by
the fire itself.

--------------------------------
  Loss Of Lights
--------------------------------
  A total loss of lights in conjunction with total electrical power loss
is usually caused by the burnout of a fuse, a fused wire, or by loosened
battery cables.
  If only the headlamps go out, the problem may be in a circuit breaker
which has opened.  These are heat-actuated to open and close, so they may
come on and go off intermittently, giving you some light to help you to
safety.
  A flashlight in the glove compartment is essential to fix most
electrical problems at night, so periodically check your flashlight to
make sure it is functioning properly.
  If your lights go out, pull off the road and take care of the problem
before proceeding. Know where the fuse panel is in your car.  Your Owner's
Manual tells you where it is.  Also carry spare fuses of the type used in
your car's electrical system.  Find your fuse panel and identify the fuse
for your lights.  (The panel should be marked to identify the fuse for
the various systems.) Replace the blown fuse with a good one. If the new
fuse doesn't solve the problem, or if the new fuse blows, your problem
is more serious and requires repair by a competent automotive electrical
systems repairman.
  If you don't have a spare fuse, DO NOT wrap a piece of tinfoil around
the old fuse. This defeats the prime purpose of the fuse and may result
in an electrical system fire.
  Loss of just one light (e.g., a tail-light or one of the headlights)
is less serious than a total loss of lights.  This is probably the
result of a bulb burnout, and you'll still have enough visibility to
carefully drive to the nearest service facility to have the problem
corrected.

--------------------------------
  Overheated Engines
--------------------------------
  Engine overheating can be caused by a number of things - a leak in
the radiator or hoses permitting loss of coolant, a faulty water pump,
a bad thermostat, or a broken fan belt.  There may be nothing seriously
wrong.  Some engines have a tendency to get hot when being overworked
on hot days, e.g., moving slowly on a very hot day in a long line of
stop-and-go traffic (particularly air-conditioned vehicles.)
  Become familiar with the normal position of the needle on your
termperature gauge when your car has reached normal operating
temperatures.  Knowing this, if you notice the needle moving
abnormally close to the "HOT" position it's time to do something.
For cars equipped only with a light that indicates when the engine is
hot, when this light comes on it's also time to do something.
  If you notice steam or liquid being emitted from the front of your
car, this is usually one indication that it is overheating.
  If your car has a tendency to heat up when moving slowly in dense
traffic in hot weather, there are several things you can do:
  * If possible, pull off the road, turn off the engine, and let it cool
    off before proceeding.
  * If you can't pull off the road and if the engine has not reached
    the critical overheat point (as noted by needle movement on the
    gauge), turn off your air conditioner (if you have it on).  In
    stop-and-go, slow-moving traffic, shift into NEUTRAL while stopped.
    Both these actions reduce strain (load) on the engine and may bring
    the temperature down. During long waits in traffic, a slight increase
    in the engine's idling speed (press the accelerator lightly) can also
    help reduce overheating through the action of the fan on the coolant
    in the radiator.
  * If none of the above work, turn on your heater (in addition to the
    other actions mentioned) and roll the windows down.  This helps to
    reduce the engine's temperature, even in cars not equipped with air
    conditioners, by increasing the radiator capacity.

  If the TEMPERATURE RISE is NOT NORMAL for your car, pull off the road
and turn off the engine.  Look for the source of trouble and let the
engine cool. DON'T REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP. If the radiator cap is
removed before the engine has cooled, the STEAM or LIQUID is likely to
BE FORCIBILY RELEASED, AND CAN CAUSE SEVERE BURNS.  DO'S AND DON'TS FOR
OVERHEATED ENGINES:
  * Remember, don't pour cold water into an overheated engine or you may
    crack the engine block.  This mistake is often made.
  * After an overheated engine has cooled, remove the radiator cap and
    check the coolant level. If your car is equipped with a "surge tank,"
    check the coolant level at that point.  The surge or radiator
    "overflow" tanks contain markings that indicate when coolant is low,
    normal, or hot;  they are designed to take the overflow liquid from
    the radiator when the radiator gets hot, rather than let the coolant
    be lost.  When the radiator cools, the overflow should return to
    the radiator.
  * Look for leaks or breaks in the radiator, surge tank, or in the
    hoses, including heater as well as radiator hoses.
  * Correct the problem if possible.  Friction tape or adhesive tape
    can sometimes be used to TEMPORARILY stop or slow a leak in a hose
    until you can get to a service facility to have it replaced.  If
    the hose is split or ruptured near the end, sometimes you can remove
    the hose end (using a screwdriver or pair of pliers, depending on the
    type clamp used), cut off the damaged section (using a knife), and
    replace the hose.  Note:  This often works for the smaller diameter
    hoses (3/4 or 1 inch that are flexible and a little longer than they
    have to be).  It may not be possible to do this with shorter hoses,
    or hoses of larger diameter that are preshaped during manufacture.
  * If a source of water is available, replace the lost fluid.
  * If possible, after the engine temperature has dropped to normal
    range after taking the remedial action indicated, drive to the nearest
    service facility and have proper repairs done. DO NOT drive a car
    with the engine overheated or with insufficient coolant.
  If there is no source of water available to replace lost coolant, if
the car returns to an overheat condition, or a hose is ruptured too
badly, arrange for roadside repairs or a tow truck to correct your problem.
  CAUTION:  If you are able to make temporary repairs so that you can
drive to the nearest service facility, don't move the car until the
engine has cooled down.  When you get to the service facility, WARN
THE ATTENDANT that the engine has been overheating so that he can take
precautions to make sure he is not burned or scalded.
  Note:  Hoses should be inspected at least once a year for signs of
cracking, extreme softness, or other signs of deterioration.  Fan belts
should also be inspected for cracking and fraying.  When these items
are replaced, the old ones can be stored in the trunk and used in
emergencies.

---------------------------------
  Loss Of Oil Pressure
---------------------------------
  A sudden loss of oil pressure, if not promptly corrected, can result
in extensive damage to your car's engine as well as a highway breakdown.
Most cars have an OIL PRESSURE LIGHT on the instrument panel.  This
light comes on as soon as you turn on the ignition.  Shortly after the
engine starts, this light should go out.  If the light DOESN'T GO OUT
when the engine is running, or if it COMES ON WHILE you're DRIVING, you
have TROUBLE.  You may not have enough oil in your engine, or your oil
pump may be bad and not pumping oil through the engine.
  If the OIL LIGHT COMES ON and stays lit, the FIRST thing to do after
pulling off the road is turn off the ignition and CHECK YOUR OIL.  If
the oil level is at or below the "ADD" mark on the dipstick, ADD OIL
BEFORE DRIVING THE CAR ANY FURTHER.  A spare can of oil carried in your
trunk is ideal for just such an emergency.  If this was the problem,
the oil light should go out when you restart the car.
  Normally it is not advisable to operate the engine with the oil light
ON to protect the engine but, if there are no abnormal engine noises
and if your check shows you have enough oil and the LIGHT is STILL ON,
in an emergency you may drive cautiously a few miles to the NEAREST
service facility but NO FARTHER.
  Get a good mechanic to check the car, because something else may be
wrong.

--------------------------------
  Alternator/Generator Failure
--------------------------------
  Most newer cars have an alternator.  Older cars have a generator.
Both serve the same purpose.  They make the electric current that keeps
your car's battery charged and operate the lights and anything else in
the car that needs electricity.
  If the ALTERNATOR/GENERATOR LIGHT COMES ON and STAYS LIT, SOMETHING
MAY BE WRONG with the ELECTRICAL SYSTEM in your car. First check the
alternator/generator belt because if this belt is loose or broken, your
car may also be about to overheat.  Have a service facility correct
the problem as soon as you can.
  If this happens out on the highway, you can often run the car using
the electrical current from your battery alone.  But you can do this
only for a short distance until the battery power is exhausted.  If
you must run your car for a short distance to get to a service facility,
turn off all electrical accessories (air conditioner, radio, or heater)
except the ignition.
  If this happens at night, the extra drain on the battery will shorten
the distance you can drive, but you should be able to drive several miles
to a service facility.

--------------------------------
  Windshield Wiper Failure
--------------------------------
  Windshield wipers may fail when you need them most - when it's raining
or snowing.  To lower the odds of your wipers failing, periodically check
them or have a service facility do it for you.  Make sure you have good
blades and that they are properly adjusted to conform to your windshield.
Note:  It's a good idea to replace wiper blades once a year.
  If you have the disappearing-type wipers, periodically check the
opening to the front of your windshield. Do this more frequently in the
fall and winter.  Remove leaves, twigs, snow or ice from the wiper
recesses and from around the wiper motor shaft and wiper arms.  Such
obstructions can place a strain on your wiper motor and result in wiper
failure.
  If you have a failure on the highway (loose wiper, motor ceases to
turn wipers, blade flies off), get off the highway and see if you can
correct the problem.  Again, some obstruction may be hampering wiper
movement, or it may be possible to push the wiper arm on the spindle
more firmly or, in some cars, to tighten the screw or nut on the wiper
arm spindle.  Before you pull off the road, make certain it is safe to
do so.
  Open the window and stick your head out to see, if necessary.
  If you find that you can't fix the wipers yourself, wait until the
rain or snowstorm has let up, then proceed with caution to the nearest
service facility. If it's impractical to wait, you'll have to get help.

--------------------------------
  Dropped Driveshaft
--------------------------------
  One of the most dangerous problems to occur on the highway is a
dropped driveshaft.  This problem doesn't occur often, but when it
does, it happens suddenly.
  In vehicles with front-mounted engines, the driveshaft is the long
tubular device underneath most real-wheel drive cars.  It is connected
on one end to the transmission and on the other to the differential in
the rear end.  Its purpose is to transfer power from the transmission
to the rear end to turn the rear wheels and propel the car.  The
driveshaft connections at the front and back are called universal joints.
If one of these fails, on some vehicles the driveshaft may drop to the
roadway.
  Failure of the rear universal joint is not as serious, from a safety
standpoint, as failure of the one in front.  If the universal joint in
the rear fails, the rear end of the driveshaft may drop to the roadway.
Motive power will be lost, and the car cannot be driven until the
driveshaft is repaired.
  If the front universal joint fails, a serious accident can result, and
the faster the car is moving the greater the danger.  In this case, the
front of the driveshaft may drop and can dig into the pavement.  The
forward motion of the car can then throw your car out of control.  Your
FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANT PRECAUTION is to slow down before pulling off
the road to prevent the drive train from digging into the rough berm.
  To reduce the chance of this happening to your car, have your service
facility examine your car's universal joints periodically and check for
possible looseness in the joint assemblies or in the bearings. Universal
joints will be obviously noisy before they fall completely.  Generally,
this is accompanied by a severe vibration throughout the vehicle at all
speeds.
  Further, if you ever hear a dragging noise under your car, slow down
and pull off the road, and look for the problem.

--------------------------------
  Hood Pop-Up
--------------------------------
  Failure of a hood latch (both primary and secondary) or improper
closure of hood and subsequent failure of the secondary latch, can
result in the hood popping open while you are driving.  When the hood
opens in this fashion, it will block your view of the road in front of
you.
  This problem is not as prevalent as it was prior to 1969.  A Federal
safety standard, which became effective in January 1969, requires a
front-opening hood, which in any open position partially or completely
obstructs a driver's forward view through the windshield, to be provided
with a second latch position on the hood latch system or with a second
hood latch system. Despite this, hood latch failure can occur and you
should know what to do if your hood suddenly pops open while driving.
  The first thing to remember is DON'T PANIC AND DON'T PANIC-STOP.  If
you apply your brakes suddenly and hard, you may be inviting a rear end
collision.  Instead, ease the car to the right or left (depending on the
lane of traffic you're in and the room you have on either side) and
depend on your limited view from left window for forward steering
reference (i.e., you may have to stick your head out the window to look).
Also, glance in your rear view mirror to see
how much room you have between you and the vehicle behind you.  Remove
your foot from the accelerator and apply your brakes slowly. Turn on
your emergency flashers and give a HAND SIGNAL to indicate that you are
going to STOP.  After you've signaled drivers to the rear, pull off the
road (to the left or right depending on the type highway and the lane
you're driving in) and try to remedy your problem.
  If for some reason you cannot get the car off the highway (e.g.,
driving on a bridge, or guardrail to the right), do not leave your car.
After traffic has cleared behind you, proceed with caution to the nearest
point at which you can exit the highway.
  CAUTION:  A frequent cause of this problem is the failure of a service
station attendant to close the hood properly after checking the oil,
radiator or battery.  You should get accustomed to the sound made by
your hood when it is closed firmly.  Thereafter, if you fail to hear
the customary "THUNK" when an attendant closes your hood, check the
hood yourself before proceeding.

--------------------------------
  Submersion Of Your Car
--------------------------------
  Emergencies of this nature are very rare and unpredictable; yet,
speedy and proper reactions by the driver and passengers are more
critical than in any other type of emergency situation. So, if your
car goes through a bridge railing or over an embankment into a deep
body of water, the following tips may help you survive.
  * Cars with their windows and doors closed will float for a few
    minutes.  Don't try to open a door to get out because the water
    pressure will hold it shut.  Windows can be rolled down easily,
    so open the window (windows in the case of passengers) and use the
    opening as an escape route.
  * If you have power windows, open them immediately before they short
    out.  If they do short out and won't open, your only recourse is to
    try to break them out with a very hard object, such as the heel of
    your shoe.  The tempered glass in modern cars is hard to break.
  * If you can't open or break a window and must open a door, remember -
    cars with engines in the front will sink nose first. This action
    will push some air to the rear of the car near the roof, helping to
    equalize the pressure and making it easier to open a door.
  Note:  None of these measures will help you if you are tossed about
and knocked out because you haven't worn your safety belt.  SO, WEAR
THAT SAFETY BELT.

--------------------------------
  Loss Of Lug Nuts On The Wheels
--------------------------------
  If you notice a WOBBLE IN A WHEEL or hear a CRACKING or RATTLING NOISE
coming from a wheel, especially at low speeds, the problem may be loose
lug nuts or a lug nut that has come off the wheel stud and is rattling
inside the hub cap or wheel cover.  This problem is often caused by
improper tightening of the nuts when a tire is replaced, or by faulty
lug bolt threads which will not retain the lug nuts tightly.
  Take care of such a problem immediately before you lose a wheel.  Pull
off the road; display warning devices;  remove the hub caps or wheel
covers; and check the tightness of all the lug nuts.  Tighten all the
nuts that may be loose.  If all the lug nuts are tight, the sound could
be caused by a faulty or burned-out bearing. Caution should be taken in
driving to the nearest service facility for repairs.
  If you've already lost more than one nut from a wheel (e.g., two of
the nuts have been lost), borrow one nut (no more) from another wheel
so that you can tighten the wheels adequately. Then, at your first
opportunity, replace all the missing lug nuts.
  If two or more of the wheel studs are too badly stripped to permit
retightening of the nuts, leave the car beside the road and get help.
Have all faulty lug nuts or lugs replaced as necessary.

--------------------------------
  Exhaust System Failures
--------------------------------
  There's nothing you can do abut a blown muffler or broken tailpipe
when you're out on the highway except to get the problem taken care of
as soon as you can.
  Sometimes a hanger holding your muffler or tailpipe in position will
break. The muffler or tailpipe may separate and drag along the pavement.
You may be able to HEAR the DRAGGING NOISE.  You'll also HEAR THE LOUD
ENGINE NOISE caused by a blown muffler or one that has separated and is
dragging.  When this happens, pull off the road and examine your tailpipe
and muffler. Often a temporary fix can be made by pushing the
muffler/tailpipe in place or raising it and holding it in place with a
piece of wire or a coat hanger.  CAUTION - WAIT for the EXHAUST SYSTEM
TO COOL DOWN before you touch it.  You can be severely burned if you
grasp a muffler or tailpipe while it is hot.  Until the exhaust system
is repaired, drive with windows open (as indicated in your Owner's Manual)
to ensure against carbon monoxide accumulation in the passenger
compartment.

--------------------------------
  Flat Tires And Blow-Outs
--------------------------------
  Keep good tires on your car and check them frequently.  This will do
much to reduce your chances of having a flat or blowout on the highway.
If you're not familiar with procedures for jacking your car and changing
wheels, practice these operations in the privacy of your garage or
driveway and under competent supervision.  BE ESPECIALLY CAREFUL of
the JACK and carefully FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS ON ITS USE.  Such instructions
will usually be found in the trunk or spare tire well of your car.
  If you have a flat tire or a blowout on the highway, get a firm grip
on the wheel and apply the brakes gently to slow down. Pull off the
road to a safe spot where you have enough room to park and get out of
the car without danger to yourself or without causing a traffic hazard
for other motorists.
  CAUTION:  Don't SLAM ON THE BRAKES.  Sudden braking may throw your car
into a spin or out of control.
  Note:  A blowout will be sudden.  You'll feel it in the wheel and you
may hear it.  You may also feel a part of the car dip.  Control of the
car may be difficult.  A flat tire will also be felt in the handling of
the car and steering may become unnatural, but this is more gradual than
a blowout.
  If you can't pull off the road where you are, drive to a spot where
you can pull off and change the tire safely.  Do this even if you have
to drive on a flat or blown-out tire -- but drive slowly and PUT ON YOUR
EMERGENCY FLASHERS, DON'T try to CHANGE A TIRE ON UNEVEN OR HILLY GROUND.
It's better to risk ruining a tire or wheel by driving on a flat tire
than to risk having a jack slip when you're changing a tire on uneven
ground.
  Note:  Before jacking up the car it's a good idea to loosen the lug
nuts slightly on the wheel to be changed so that the wheel can be removed
easily when the vehicle is raised on the jack.  If the lug nuts are not
loosened, the pressure necessary to remove them may be enough to cause
the vehicle to slip off the jack.
  Some drivers may not be physically capable of changing a tire
themselves, or may not know how.  In such situations, follow the
procedures described earlier for requesting help, or request help over
your CB radio, if you have one.

--------------------------------
 Driving Through Water Or In Heavy Rain Or Snow
--------------------------------
  Driving under these conditions can result in three major problems -
engine drownout, brake failure, and possible loss of vehicle control.
  Every year people are drowned trying to drive across flooded roads.
Before crossing a flooded road, know the depth of the water or don't
cross it. Another major problem resulting from heavy water on roadways
is hydroplaning, which results in loss of steering control.
  If you drive through a deep puddle - especially if your car is moving
fast - water can be thrown up into your engine compartment and cause your
car to stall out due to moisture on your spark plug wires, coil, or
distributor.  A car moving in the other direction can cause you the same
problem if it's moving too fast and throws a lot of water (or road slush
in case of a snowstorm) onto your car.
  If you encounter deep puddles or high water along the highway, DRIVE
THROUGH SLOWLY.
  If your car stalls out, try to coast to the side of the road and wait
for the engine to dry out.  If you know the parts of your electrical
system, the drying out process can be quickened by taking a dry rag and
wiping the plugs, wires, and coil, and by drying the inside of the
distributor cap.
  If your car stalls in the middle of a puddle and you can't move it,
and if you're in the vicinity of a stream that is overflowing onto the
highway, be alert to the possibility of a flash flood.  For your own
safety you may have to leave the car where it is and seek shelter until
the water recedes.
  After moving through water your brakes may have lost their stopping
power due to submersion.  Apply your brakes lightly while driving to
dry out the linings and other components.

--------------------------------
  Mini-Emergencies
--------------------------------
  UNRULY CHILDREN:
  Accidents have been caused due to lack of driver control when the
driver turns around to try to discipline unruly children.
  Children should always be restrained in a child restraint (or child
seat) that meets Federal safety standards, or by a safety belt if they
are older or no child seat is available. This is primarily for their
safety if there should be a crash, but it also keeps children from
interfering with the driver.
  If you must discipline young children in your car, DON'T LET GO OF THE
WHEEL AND TURN AROUND. Pull off the road, switch off the engine, and apply
any discipline necessary, and, make the children FASTEN their SAFETY BELTS
despite any objections.

  INSECTS:
  Accidents have been caused by drivers losing control of their cars due
to efforts to get rid of flies, bees, or other insects that have entered
the vehicle. Don't get frantic and try to kill an insect while driving.
Pulling off the road in a safe spot, turn off the engine, and then get
rid of the insect. Accept the possibility of a bee sting until you can
pull off the road safely; that's a lot better than risking a more serious
accident or injury.
  If an insect or dirt flies into one of your eyes, close that ONE EYE
and pull off the road before you attempt to clear the foreign matter
from your eye.  DON'T TRY TO CLEAN YOUR EYE WHILE DRIVING.
  If you get foreign matter in BOTH EYES, force yourself to keep your
eyes open, despite the discomfort.  Pull off the road safely and then
clear your eyes.
  Another caution - animals loose in the front seat can also interfere
with attention, visibility, steering, and braking.

  CLOTHING AND UPHOLSTERY FIRES:
  Clothing and upholstery fires are usually smoker's problems. Ashes or
lighted particles may drop on your clothing or on the upholstery from
your cigarette, pipe, or cigar.  Don't try to put out the fire while
moving. Don't stop in traffic and get out of your car to brush off
burning ashes.  Put up with any pain or damage involved.  Retain control
of the car and pull off or to the side of the road before attempting to
put the fire out.

  FIRE IN THE ASHTRAY:
  Ashtrays are FOR ASHES, NOT CANDY AND GUM WRAPPERS.  If you have paper
in your ashtray, a cigarette or cigar that is not completely extinguished,
pipe ashes, or a match not completely out can cause a fire in your ashtray.
If you have such a fire, CLOSE THE ASHTRAY to diminish the flames or even
smother the fire. Then pull safely off the road and make sure the fire is
out.
  To avoid such fires, carry a trash bag or trash receptacle in your
vehicle, and use it.

--------------------------------
First Aid Supplies For Your Car
--------------------------------
  Many of the little problems that can disable a car along the roadway
can be taken care of by the driver - if he has some simple tool or some
little thing like a piece of tape or wire. You don't have to be a good
mechanic to fix many of the little things that can go wrong. Your car's
fan belt may become loose because the bolt holding the generator/alternator
in position became loose - this would be reflected in the warning light
on your dash indicating that the alternator/generator is not charging.
A wire may become disconnected, a tailpipe hanger may break, etc.  The
following is a list of some of the things you can carry in your trunk
or glove compartment that you may find useful from time to time:

  NECESSARY ITEMS:
  Glove Compartment:
  * The name, address, and phone number of someone to call in an
    emergency.
  * Spare fuses for the electrical system.
  * A good flashlight.
  * An ice scraper for winter driving.
  * A pocket knife.
  Trunk:
  * Spare tire (with air in it).
  * Fire extinguisher.
  * First aid kit.
  * Jack and lug wrench for changing tires.
  * Flares or reflective day/night devices.
    Note:  Flares can be very dangerous in the hands of children, so store
    them where children can't easily get them.

  VERY USEFUL ITEMS:
  * An EMPTY CAN that is fire-department approved to carry gasoline (if
    you run out of gas).  Note:  NEVER CARRY GASOLINE in this can in
    your trunk - this is VERY DANGEROUS.
  * A box, tucked into the corner of your trunk and containing:

    Pliers - useful for tightening clamps, small nuts that may work loose,
    and twisting wires.

    Screwdrivers - several sizes. Make sure one is a "Phillips" type.
    Adjustable Wrench (or small set of open-end wrenches if you prefer)
    to tighten nuts and bolts that may have worked loose.

    Tape - to repair broken or frayed wires and to temporarily stop small
    leaks in a hose until you can get to a service facility.

    Wire - very useful to temporarily hold a muffler or tailpipe in place
    if one of the hangers breaks or falls off.

    Rags - can be used to dry up your distributor or wet wires if your
    motor is drowned out in a heavy rain or from driving through high
    water.

    Battery Jumper Cables - handy to help get your car started if your
    battery is weak, especially in the winter.  Consult your Owner's
    Manual on how to use jumper cables.  If you don't have an Owner's
    Manual, write for the free NHTSA Fact Sheet, "Battery Hazards".

    Piece of Sandpaper - useful for cleaning dirty battery terminals when
    the car won't start.

    Can of Engine Oil - nice to have when the OIL light comes on and
    you're far from a service station.  OTHER USEFUL ITEMS:

    Tire Pump - for use when one of your tires develops a slow leak and
    you'd rather drive to a service station to have it changed than do
    it yourself. Can also be used to dry out a distributor that is wet.

    Plastic Sheet - for use in changing a tire in the rain or if you have
    to get under the car to check something.

  FOR WINTER DRIVING:
  Tire Chains - if you don't have snow tires.
  A Small Shovel to help you get out of ruts and snowbanks.
  A Small Bag of Sand to give you something to throw under the wheels
  for better traction if you get stuck in ice or snow. To keep your
  trunk clean, the sand should be stored in a plastic bag, which is
  itself stored in a larger bag such as a gunnysack.

*****************************
 HOW TO SAVE GAS AND MONEY
*****************************
------------------------------------
  How To Save Gasoline... and Money
-------------------------------------
"You mean I could save up to 12 percent on my gasoline bills just by
keeping my car tuned?  "...or 5 percent just by keeping my tires
inflated to the tire manufacturer's recommended levels?  "...or between
3 and 10 percent by switching to radial tires?  "...and 20 percent on
the highway merely by driving carefully and never exceeding 55 miles per
hour?  "I'm interested. Tell me How."
  "Gladly.  But first, let me tell you What and Why..."

--------------------------------
  What It Costs To Drive
--------------------------------
If you're a typical driver, your car:
  - travels over 11,000 miles per year
  - consumes nearly 800 gallons of gasoline annualy (just over 2 gallons
    per day)
  - has an average fuel economy rating of 14 to 15 miles per gallon, and
  - costs over $600 per year for gasoline alone (over 5 cents per mile).

  Those figures assume that you're driving a private automobile in an
urban area.  Yet, even if you have a long commute, use your car for
business, operate a light truck, or for some other reason exceed those
averages, the relative impact of gasoline costs on the pocketbook
remains the same.

--------------------------------
  Why It Pays To Save Gasoline
--------------------------------
  By driving more efficiently you could easily: cut gasoline consumption
by 40 to 80 gallons per vehicle, probably without eliminating any
necessary travel and without inconvenience or sacrifice, and save $30 to
$60 or more per year.  The money saved is like getting a discount on the
gasoline you buy, amounting to 4 to 8 cents per gallon, perhaps a dollar
or more per tankful.  In fact, by planning your trips, caring for your
car properly, and taking ALL of the steps recommended in this database,
you can lower your gasoline bills considerably.
  Gasoline is an essential form of energy, one we can no longer afford
to waste. It is refined from crude oil, a finite natural resource.
Approximately half of our oil supply is imported, and its price and
availability are largely determined by the oil exporting countries. By
saving gasoline, we can extend domestic oil supplies until alternate
sources of energy can be developed.  Moreover, the less you drive, the
more you cut costs and petty aggravation, air pollution, traffic
congestion, and accidents. And the more you help blunt the impact of
OPEC-dictated price increases. Passenger automobiles account for about
13 percent of all end-use energy consumption in the United States, and
about 31 percent of all the petroleum used.  If every driver of the more
than 100 million private automobiles, plus some 20 million light trucks,
reduced gasoline consumption just 5 percent, the the total savings would
be more than 5.5 billion gallons of gasoline per year. That's enough, in
savings a lone, to drive the average car between New York City and San
Fancisco about 25 million times - or for all of New York City's 8
million people to drive coast to coast 3 times.

--------------------------------
  How To Drive More Efficiently
--------------------------------
  1. Drive at a moderate speed. The most efficient range usually is 35 to
     45 miles per hour.  On the highway, where you may need to maintain
     a higher speed, stay at 55 mph.  Most automobiles get about 18
     percent better mileage on the highway at 50 than at 65 mph, and 20
     percent better mileage at 55 than at 70 mph. You may note that some
     drivers abuse the speed limit on super-highways, but state police
     are cracking down on speeders.

  2. Drive at a smooth and steady pace.  Press lightly but steadily on
     the accelerator so that you flow smoothly through traffic.  Avoid
     tailgating, unnecessary accelerating, and braking.

  3. Drive "defensively".  Anticipate traffic flow 10 to 12 seconds
     ahead.  Maintain 2 or 3 seconds of buffer space between your car
     and the others around you-calculated by noting when the car ahead
     passes a fixed point, and counting the seconds until you reach that
     point. This gives you the necessary time and space to drive safely
     and use your energy efficiently.

  4. Don't idle the motor for longer than 30 seconds.  Idling gets zero
     miles to the gallon. Driving slowly for the first few minutes is a
     much more efficient way to warm the motor than excessive idling.
     Remember this rule when waiting in line, for instance, at a drive-
     in window.

  5. Keep windows closed when driving at highway speeds.  Open windows
     increase wind resistance by creating drag.  If the outdoor
     temperatures permit, use flow-through ventilation.  If heating or
     cooling is needed, use a moderate setting.

-----------------------------
  How To Plan Your Trips
-----------------------------
  1. Share the ride.  About one third of all private automobile mileage
     is for commuting.  When two people ride together, say to work, they
     use about half the gasoline required if each drove alone.  Many
     employers offer incentives such as free or reduced-rate parking for
     carpools. Consider organizing or joining a vanpool;  the trend
     towards vanpools is increasing.

  2. Combine trips.  Plan your trips-to market, to the library, to
     school, or to visit friends. You'll often find that one
     neighborhood jaunt could serve two or three purposes, and you could
     help your neighbors by offering to run errands for them. Gasoline
     costs about 5 cents per mile, and much more for short trips.  Make
     your shopping or optional trips when traffic is lightest, and
     return home before the rush hour starts. Patronize your nearest
     group of stores.

  3. Eliminate unnecessary trips.  Find one trip a day which might be
     better handled-or even eliminated-by telephoning, writing, or
     combining with another trip. For instance, banking often can be
     done more quickly and more efficiently by mail or telephone than in
     person.

  4. Take public transit if available.  On buses and trains, one can
     read, daydream, sleep, or catch up on work.  When public transit
     isn't available, groups of commuters sometimes charter buses, or
     form vanpools, frequently with support from employers.

-----------------------------
  How To Care For Your Car
------------------------------
  1. Check tire pressure regularly.  Keep tires inflated to the
    manufacturers highest recommended level.  Most such recommendations
    are for cold pressure, so buy a good quality gauge and take readings
    before starting out.  Become familiar with the difference between
    your tires' cold and hot pressures, and adjust accordingly.  You can
    improve mileage 1 percent for every two pounds of tire pressure
    needed to bring them up to standard.

  2. Replace all four tires with radials.  They will generally give 3
    to 5 percent improvement in gas mileage in the city, and up to 10
    percent on the highway.  When you buy a new car, specify radials.
    They last longer, give better mileage, and often provide better
    steering qualities.  But don't mix radials with conventional tires-
    it can be dangerous.

  3. Have wheels properly aligned Improper wheel alignment can increase
    fuel use and cause unnecessary tire wear.  A regular alignment check
    is a good idea.  Also check the alignment after the wheels have had
    a jolt-from striking potholes, bumps, or curbs.

  4. Are your brakes adjusted?  Brakes that drag or grab unevenly rob
    you of gasoline, and can be dangerous. Be sure that the brakes both
    grip and release properly.

  5. Use gasoline of the proper octane rating The owners manual gives
    the gasoline octane rating and gasoline type recommended by the auto
    manufacturer.  What you want is octane just high enough to prevent
    knocking.

  6. Check and change oil and oil filter at recommended intervals.
    Every time you add gasoline, check the oil.  Dirty oil or a low oil
    level can cause friction and wear that rob you of gasoline mileage
    and can seriously damage your engine.

   7. Use a good quality SE multi-grade (multiviscosity) oil.  Look for
    the API SAE rating on the container.  Multi-grade oils like 10W-30
    and 10W-40 help reduce internal engine friction and give better
    gasoline mileage than single-grade oils.  Do not use an oil of
    higher viscosity than recommended in your owner's manual since
    heavier oils tend to increase friction and decrease miles-per-gallon
    efficiency.  A lower viscosity oil such as 5W-30 is recommended for
    winter months in a cold climate.  Consider using the super oils;
    they increase fuel economy and give better protection against wear
    of motor parts. Always use oils that are marked SE.

   8. Do the little things prudence requires. Don't overfill the gas
    tank; eliminate any chance of spillage.  Don't carry unnecessary
    weight.  For every additional 100 pounds, mileage goes down by as
    much as four-tenths of a mile per gallon.  For safety's sake, never
    carry a can of gasoline in the trunk.

  9. Have you had an engine tune-up recently?  Do you need one?  If
    your engine is hard to start, hesitates, sputters, idles roughly, or
    the like, you are losing mileage and should check its condition
    immediately. You may need to clean and adjust spark plugs and
    ignition points, replacing if necessary;  check timing;  and replace
    air and fuel filter elements.  How much you will save on gasoline
    consumption will depend on the condition of your engine and how much
    you drive in the course of a year, but savings could range up to 12
    percent on your gasoline bills. Here are some other key points:
    Remove foreign matter from the exhaust gas recirculatory valve and
    hoses, and check the controls following the manufacturer's
    specifications. Check for leaks in the fuel system.  Check, clean
    or, if necessary, replace the positive crankcase ventilating valve
    (PCV).  Check all electical ignition wiring and connections for
    voltage drop and resistance; clean, tighten, and replace if
    necessary. Inspect the choke for proper operation.  Set idle speed
    to manufacturer's specification.

--------------------------------
  How To Choose Your Next Car
--------------------------------
  1. The greatest single step you can take to save gasoline is to
    choose your next car carefully. Here's how:  If you are in the
    market for a new car, consult the "Gas Mileage Guide for New Car
    Buyers," available free from any dealer or by mail;  write Fuel
    Economy, Pueblo, CO 81009. Study the tables carefully. They give the
    most complete and accurate information available on the relative
    fuel economy performance of all current model cars, station wagons,
    and light trucks.  The estimates are in terms of miles per gallon
    measured on the Environmental Protection Agency's standardized fuel
    economy test.  The actual mileage you get will depend to a large
    degree on how and where you drive - and on following the tips on
    saving gasoline and money found on these pages. The Guide can be
    very helpful.  Compare specifications and test results.
      You can save hundreds of dollars a year at no sacrifice - simply by
    choosing an economical car from the class in which you are
    interested. If you expect to buy a used car, first consult the auto
    magazines or buyers guides published by the consumer testing
    organizations.  These should be available at the public library.
      In buying a car, choose the size needed to satisfy your normal driving
    patterns.  Consider such things as the car's weight, and select the
    lightest car in the class. Also, choose the one with the lowest
    practical number of cylinders. Choose manual transmission if most of
    your driving is typically on the highway.  And avoid power option
    extras.  If you need extra passenger or trunk room occasionally,
    consider buying a compact and renting a station wagon once or twice
    a year.

  2. As said before, do the little things prudence requires. Select a
    light-color car for a warm climate - to reflect the sun's rays;  you
    might not even need air conditioning, or if you have it, you might
    not use it much.  Tinted glass or a light colored interior also
    helps cut down on heat inside the car.  If you don't need an
    installed luggage rack on top, specify a model without one;  it adds
    to wind resistance. Above all, don't let an over-zealous sales
    manager pressure you into buying the "latest model" left on the
    floor or lot.  You'll be driving - and paying for gasoline - for a
    "lifetime", the lifetime of your ownership of the car.

-----------------------------
  Why Not Also Consider...
-----------------------------
  1. Local laws that can help you save energy.  Those that help reduce
    automobile gasoline might include:  increasing availability of
    public transportation;  express lanes for ridesharing vehicles and
    buses during peak commuting hours;  one-way streets in heavy traffic
    areas, synchronized traffic lights;  right turns on red;  banning
    stopping, standing or parking on arterial streets during rush hours;
    and providing overpasses at busy intersections.

  2. Vacationing close to home.  Discover nearby attractions.  A nearby
    hotel, resort, or campground might provide as satisfying a change
    from routine as a similar one up to thousands of miles away.

  3. Rediscovering the pleasures of walking, hiking, jogging, and
    bicycling.  Does anyone have to be reminded that these modes of
    transportation, relaxation, and exercise consume no gasoline?

  4. Forms of motorized transport which compare favorably to automotive
    efficiency.  A two-wheeled vehicle might meet your transportation
    needs.

---------------------------------------
  How To Set Your Own Gas-Saving Goal
---------------------------------------
  To help achieve conservation objectives in the face of tight oil
supplies and rising prices, President Carter, in his April 5, 1979,
energy address to the nation, called on all of us to drive 15 fewer
miles per week. "At least once a week, take the bus, go by carpool -or,
if you work close to home, walk," he suggested.
  "Conservation is our cheapest and cleanest energy source," the
President said. "It helps us to control inflation, and every barrel of
oil we save is a barrel we don't have to import." If every driver cut
normal driving by 15 miles a week, savings would add up about 450,000
barrels of oil per day - oil that would not have to be imported.  How
can you reduce your driving by 15 miles per week?  By putting into
practice the tips in the section here on "How to Plan Your Trips." How
can you reduce your gasoline bills 40 percent or more?  By putting into
practice ALL the tips listed here.  Would you like more tips? For a free
pamphlet "Tips for Energy Savers" and/or a half-hour, 16 mm color movie
"Running on Empty" suitable for driver education classes or other
groups, write ENERGY, BOX 62, OAK RIDGE, TN 37830.  Prepared by the:
U.S.  Department of Energy Office of Public Affairs Washington, D.C.
20585 DOE/OPA-0044 (5-79)


***************************************
COMMON SENSE IN BUYING A SAFE USED CAR
***************************************
-----------------------------
BACKGROUND
-----------------------------
  Millions of used cars are sold each year. Most people who buy used
cars do so for reasons of economy. They either can't afford, or
unwilling to pay, the price of a new car. Many Motorists never buy a new
car -- They buy a succession of used cars on the premise that after a
new car has been used for a year or two the original owner will have
taken care of all the little, nagging problems, as well as absorbing the
heavy depreciation usual on new cars.
  Buying a used car is an adventure that can result in presonal
satisfaction and considerable savings.  It can also turn into a
misadventure ending in dissatisfaction, frustration, monetary loss, and
a real threat to the safety of the car purchaser and to other motorists
and pedestrians.
  Many of the problems experienced by the buyer of a used car are of his
own making. with proper care in the selection of a used car, most
Problems can be avoided. There are literally millions of used cars from
which to choose.  Many of these cars may contain uncorrected safety
defects or may be mechanically and structurally unsound and should be
removed from the highway until corrected. Yet It's not difficult to find
a good, safe, and dependable used car -- But it takes patience and
"Know-How."
 This database provides some "common sense" guidance for selecting a
good used car.

---------------------------------------------
CONSUMER CONSIDERATIONS IN BUYING A USED CAR
---------------------------------------------
  When a consumer goes shopping for a used car, generally his prime
considerations are price, gas mileage, style, appearance, power, and the
equipment he wants on the car -- and not necessarily in that order.  He
seldom considers the safety aspects of the car he is about to purchase.
More often than not he believes, without question, the statements
regarding the car's condition and performance made by a salesman or a
private individual whose main concern is to sell a car. Rarely does he
inspect the car closely to detect flaws. He may not even test drive it
except for a short, non-enlightening spin around te block.  Seldom will
he check the details of any warranty that may be offered, and he may not
even determine whether the dealer is equipped to repair the car when he
needs service. little wonder, then, that some consumers are disappointed
shortly after they buy a used car. Little wonder, too, that many buyers
question the wisdom of their purchase after it's too late. As a result,
many used car buyers find themselves saddled with cars that may be
unsafe and require costly repairs for the correction of defects that
should have been detected and corrected before they made a down payment
or signed any papers.

---------------------------------
PRIME RULE IN BUYING A USED CAR
---------------------------------
  Next to buying a house, a car, even a late model used car, is usually
the most expensive single item an individual will buy. A home buyer will
inspect his prospective purchase thoroughly to determine whether the
house meets his needs, whether it contains flaws that should be
corrected before purchase.  The lending institution providing his
mortgage will also perform an inspection, and may call in heating,
plumbing, electrical, or structural experts if flaws are suspected. In
many parts of the country, a prospective home buyer wouldn't think of
bying a house until it is inspected for and declared free of termite
infestation.
  A used car can have suspension, steering, running gear, and cooling
system problems, and hidden deterioration of its structural members and
body. However, the used car will seldom get the same, thorough
inspection as the used house. Many car buyers treat the transaction too
casually and purchase many avoidable problems along with their used car.
  The first rule in buying a good used car, having determined your
requirements on vehicle size, economy, performance, and equipment, is to
inspect it as thoroughly as you would a house. when possible, having the
vehicle run through a diagnostic center or inspected by a competent
mechanic to determine it's overall general condition.

-----------------------------
SERVICE REQUIREMENTS
-----------------------------
  In shopping for a good used car, be cautious and suspicious. Remember,
the previous owner had some reason for getting rid of it.  The reason
may have been that he wanted a new car, or it may have been that the car
was practically worn out and required major, costly repairs to make it
both safe and dependable.
  Also remember that you seldom get more than you pay for, as far as a
used car purchase is concerned, and can often get less than you paid for
if you're not careful.  So, if you think you're getting a good used car
at a "dirt-cheap" price, you may be buying somebody's expensive troubles
instead.
  Remember also that all cars require service from time to time, and,
the older the car, the better the chances that it will soon require
major repairs. Thus, before you decide to buy a specific used car, think
about where you will have trouble getting adequate service.  In this
connection:
  * For some makes of cars, adequate service can be provided only by an
    authorized factory dealership specializing in that make.  It's time-
    consuming and sometimes expensive, in terms of time lost from work
    and travel expenses, when the nearest service facility having the
    required parts is a great distance away.

  * As used cars become older, some repair parts become scarcer. This is
    espcecially true of makes and models provided in limited quantities
    at times, the only source for some parts may be a junkyard.

-----------------------------
WHAT TO BUY
-----------------------------
  Generally, your best buy in a used car is one that is only two or
three years old.  Look for the year and model you like, and when you
find one, check the odometer to see how far it has been driven.  If cars
only a few years old have been given reasonable care by their previous
owners, they still have a lot of driving life left in them. Because of
their mechanical condition, they should also be safer than older
vehicles.  Such cars, though, are still fairly expensive, and may cost
more than you can afford, so, if you find several cars within your price
range, consider the one with the least mileage on the odometer and best
general overall condition.

-----------------------------
ODOMETER LAW
-----------------------------
  A federal law passed in 1972 makes it illegal for anyone to do
anything that would cause a vehicle's odometer to show the wrong
mileage.  No person, not even the vehicle owner, is permitted to turn
back or disconnect the odometer (except to perform necessary repairs).
The federal law also requires that anyone selling a vehicle, or
transferring ownership in some way, must provide the buyer with a signed
statement indicating the mileage registered on the odometer the time of
transfer.  If the seller knows the registered mileage to be incorrect
because the odometer has been broken or previously tampered with, he
must include a statement to that effect on the mileage disclosure form.
When purchasing a vehicle, be certain you receive a mileage disclosure
statement before the transfer of title.
  Anyone who illegally tampers with an odometer or who fails to provide
the required mileage disclosure statement may be sued in a private civil
action by the person wronged by the violation. If the suit is
successful, the person will recover $1,500 or three times the amount of
actual damages, whichever is greater.
  A vehicle may look good and the odometer may read only 15,000 or
20,000 miles when, in fact, it has been driven 80,000 or 90,000 miles.
The best way to protect yourself from being victimized by a fraudulent
representation of a vehicle's mileage is to closely examine the
condition of the vehicle, contact a prior owner to inquire about the
mileage when he sold the vehicle, ask to see the mileage form given to
your seller by the prior owner, and make sure you receive a mileage
disclosure statement. You will probably be able to make a good
assessment of the reliability of the odometer's mileage based on the
information you receive.

-----------------------------
USED CAR WARRANTIES
-----------------------------
  With a used car you may not get a warranty, especially if you buy it
from a private party or from an organization that has no facilities to
service the car it sells (e.g., a repossessed car purchased from a
finance company).  Even when provided, warranties differ from one dealer
to another.  You may get a complete warranty for parts and labor for
periods up to 30 days, 90-day warranty on parts only with the buyer
paying half the cost for parts and labor.
   Make sure you understand the warranty before you purchase the car, and
make it work for you. If you suspect something is wrong with your used
car and it's still under warranty, don't wait.  Take it back right away.
Do this over and over until you're sure the dealer has corrected your
problems, and don't accept an excuse like "the shop is full and we have
a lot of appointments this week, bring your car back next week." Next
week may be too late -- Your warranty may have expired and the dealer or
his service manager may not honor any promise made orally. If possible,
obtain a written description of any work done during the warranty period
so that you will have a record if the same problem recurs after the
warranty expires.

-----------------------------
WHERE TO BUY
-----------------------------
  For your driving safety as well as satisfaction with your purchase,
where you buy your used car is as important as what you buy.  Sources of
used cars include used car dealers, new car dealers, private owners, car
rental agencies or companies that buy new cars every year and sell their
older cars, and banks or loan companies that have repossessed cars.
  A used car dealer who sells only used cars usually has many cars from
which to pick, but some of these dealers don't have a service facility
(garage) to repair the cars if something goes wrong.
  So, if you need maintenance, you may have to take it to some other
service facility for required work.  Before buying a car from such a
source, make sure there is someplace where you can get it repaired,
particularly if you get a used car guarantee.  Some used car dealers who
don't have their own service facilities make arrangements with a garage
to repair the cars they have sold and guaranteed.
  A new car dealer who also sells used cars taken in on trade will have
a service facility to do necessary repairs.  Normally, such dealers keep
the best of the used cars they take in on trade, and dispose of the
others through a wholesale used car outlet.
  You can often buy a good used car at a lower price by watching the
classified ads in your newspaper and buying from a private owner. But,
you won't get a guarantee.  Be careful if you buy a car from a private
owner that you don't know. Inspect it carefully; better still, take it
to your local mechanic or a diagnostic station to have it inspected
before you finalize the purchase.  Also make sure you get a clear title-
-Sometimes buyers get stuck with a car that has been stolen, or one that
is about to be repossessed by a bank or finance company because the
owner didn't pay the loan payments.
  You might also be able to buy a repossessed car from a bank or finance
company through the newspaper ads.  Such institutions often sell
repossessed cars for the outstanding balance due on them. Again, inspect
the car carefully before purchase -- If the previous owner was lax in
making payments, he may also have neglected to perform required
maintenance service.
  You might also be able to pick up a good used car from a car rental
agency. Many of these agencies buy new cars every year and sell their
older cars after using them for only a year. Some big companies that
have a fleet of company cars do the same thing.  Remember, though, that
cars bought from rental agencies or fleets will generally have
accumulated a lot of mileage in a short time --However, in most
operations of this size such vehicles receive better scheduled
maintenance.

-----------------------------
AVOIDING USED CAR PROBLEMS
-----------------------------
  There are a few basic rules that apply especially to the used car
buyer, because he is buying a vehicle someone else has used and perhaps
abused. Further, a used car buyer may often have to buy a car "AS IS,"
which means the seller guarantees nothing. Thus, if You want to avoid a
great many problems when buying a used car, Follow these rules:

1.  Don't buy at night, in the rain, or under any conditions that could
  keep you from seeing everything and examining everything about the
  car, inside and out.
  * A muddy car lot or a cold rain, or a day when you don't have time to
    be thorough are conditions that invite you not to crawl under the
    car to inspect it thoroughly. Yet, if the frame is rusted out, if
    the steering or suspension parts are dangerously worn, or if there
    is brake fluid leaking down over curb-bruised tires, you might buy
    these problems and worse by picking the wrong time and place to buy.
  * Rain can make dents, patches, and repaints shine like mew. You
    should check for rusted-out-doors, flooring, and tailgates, so don't
    pick a rainy day to buy a used car. Likewise, don't pick one at
    night.
  * If you're too cold, too wet, or too busy to try every accessory,
    examine the whole car, and take it for a thorough test drive, you're
    just asking to be "taken."

2. Don't buy the car at all ...
  * If you're refused a test drive with you at the wheel.
  * If you're refused a request to let your own mechanic check the car
    at his place of business.
  * If any and all promises for brake and clutch adjustments, tune-ups,
    parts replacement, etc. are not written down and signed by the man
    in charge, before you buy.
  * If you're refused a final test drive for final outside inspection
    after the seller has completed all promised, pre-purchase repairs or
    adjustments.

3. Remember -- Some vehicles on a used car lot may have unrepaired
  safety defects -- defects for which the cars were recalled by the
  manufacturer, but which the prior owners neglected to return for
  repair. By calling the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration,
  Office of Consumer Services [phone] or 426-0671, giving the
  make, model, year, and vehicle identification number (vin) of the car
  in question, you can obtain a report of all defect-recalls for that
  make/model.

-----------------------------
EXAMINE THE CAR
-----------------------------
  Examine the outside of the car thoroughly. Look for rust, dents, and
evidence that portions of the car have rusted out and been repaired
using body putty.  Be especially careful in examining areas around the
bottom of doors and the rear fenders. Look under the car. Check for
breaks in the frame or signs that the frame has been welded. Look for
excessive rusting of the frame.  All these conditions can signal
weaknesses in the vehicle's structure.  Also, check the condition of the
muffler, tailpipe, and exhaust pipe.
  Look for signs of oil or transmission fluid leakage on the ground or
pavement under the car.  Look for signs of fluid leaking from shock
absorbers. check the condition of the tires, including inside surfaces.
Look for signs of brake fluid leaking on the inside of the tires.
  Walk around the car and check the condition of window glass. Check the
condition of the lenses in all vehicle lights -- front, back, and side.
Test all the lights to make sure they are functioning (headlights,
taillights, flashers, backup lights, brake lights, turn signals, running
lights in fenders).
  Push down on the corners of the car, front and back, to check the
shock absorbers. If the car bounces up and down several times, the
shocks are worn.
  Stand back some distance from the car and see if it is level. If one
corner is lower than another, one of the springs may be weak or it may
have a broken leaf. While standing at a distance, look for evidence that
the car has been in an accident (ripples in the fender, dents, or paint
that doesn't match).
  Open the trunk and check the spare tire.  If it is worn unevenly or is
cupped, something may be wrong with the front end and a front tire was
put in the trunk as a spare to hide the problem. Make ure the car has a
jack and that it is in good condition.
  Lift the hood of the car and check the condition of the belts and
hoses. Check the battery to see if it is cracked.  Pull out the oil
dipstick to see how dirty the oil is.  A check of the mileage on the
odometer and a comparison with mileage indicated on lubrication stickers
(affixed to doorposts or sometimes at some location under the hood will
give you an indication as to when the car had its last oil change and
lubrication, and whether the previous owner neglected such necessary
services.
  (Note:  If the previous owner changed his oil and lubricated the car
himself, you won't find such evidence.)
  Get inside the car. Examine the upholstery, safety belts, and
carpeting. If the car has seat covers, look under them.  Badly worn
carpeting or upholstery may be a sign of heavy vehicle usage. turn on
the ignition and check the lights, including the warning lights on the
dashboard. Take a friend along, and have him check the various lights
from the outside as you turn them on from the inside. Also check the
brake pedal for free play.
  Take the car for a test drive over various types of roads. Test the
brakes for signs pulling.  Be alert to any vibrations in the steering
that may be signs of front-end trouble. If the car has a manual
transmission, be alert to excessive play, grabbing, or rattling of the
clutch.  Be alert to any vibrations or unusual noises from the engine,
transmission, rear end, or wheels that may signal trouble. push the
gearshift through its various positions and see how the car reacts. Let
the engine idle and be alert to noises or vibrations that may indicate a
badly tuned engine or one with bad valves. Be alert for any unusual
odors inside the car -- these should tell you that all is not well with
the car. while test driving the car, pay attention to how the
transmission shifts -- if the automatic transmission doesn't shift
smoothly or if there is hesitation when it shifts, the transmission may
need repair work. When it is safe to do so, step on the gas and look
into the rearview mirror for smoke from the exhaust -- if you see a lot
of white or bluish smoke, the engine may be bad and need an expensive
overhaul. Check to see how much power the car has on a hill -- if it has
little power, it may need an expensive valve job or an overhaul. Turn on
the heater, air conditioner, radio, and windshield wipers to make sure
all these systems work. And, if possible, before you buy the car have it
checked mechanically by your mechanic or a diagnostic center, and run it
through a car wash to see if it leaks.

-----------------------------
BE CAREFUL OF TRICKS
-----------------------------
  Some used car dealers and even some private owners use various methods
to make a car look better than it actually is. Some of these are :
  * Painting tires to make them look new. Always examine the tread for
  treadwear and sidewalls for cracks, signs of tread separation, and
  bubbles.

  * Steam cleaning the engine and painting the valve covers and air
    cleaner to make them look new.

  * Installing seat covers to mask torn upholstery.

  * Installing new rugs or mats to cover rusted-out parts of the floor.

  * Spraying black paint on the hoses to make them look new.

  * Removing an erratically worn tire from the front and placing it in
    the trunk to mask a front-end problem.  Always check the tire in the
    trunk.

  * Putting a cheap repaint job on the car to hide body rust.

  * Making makeshift repairs to the muffler and tailpipe. Examine these
    for signs the holes or rusted-out portions have been repaired with
    muffler patches or repair tape.

-----------------------------
FINAL REMINDERS
-----------------------------
  The Point has already been made that you will rarely have anyone to
blame but yourself for the problems you fail to note when you buy your
used car.
  * Be Patient. Don't be in a hurry to buy the first used car that looks
    good.

  * Be curious and observant. Inspect the car thoroughly and test drive
    it to discover any mechanical faults, operational characteristics,
    or unsatisfactory features that may make you regret buying the car.

  * Be suspcious.  If you can get previous owner's name, call him to
    verify the condition of the vehicle and its mileage when he got rid
    of it.

  * Be Choosy and uncompromising in your demand for signed promises and
    claims if you expect to hold the seller responsible for later,
    unsolvable problems.

  IN A WORD, CAUTION BEFORE YOU buy is the best advice that can be
given. Remember, buying a good used car requires common sense.


********************************
CAR CARE AND SERVICE
********************************
  This database is designed to help you, the average owner, keep your
car on the road and out of the repair shop.  It explains the functions
of the key parts and systems of your car, the regular service required,
and the more common symptoms of malfunction or wear when a prompt minor
service could prevent an eventual expensive repair.  It also offers
practical advice on obtaining quality service and repairs and on
appealing for help if you feel you have been cheated.
  With regular, knowledgeable care and service, most cars provide years
of reliable driving.

--------------------------------
  Accepting A New Car
--------------------------------
  The first step in budget-wise care and service is buying a car in
perfect condition.  To be sure your new car has no built-in defects or
service headaches, and that you know how to operate it, make the
following checks before you leave the dealer's lot. OPERATIONAL CHECKOUT
  Read the Owner's Manual carefully.  Sit in the driver's seat and,
before you start the car, have the salesman explain the starting
procedure, the dashboard gages and warning lights, and the operation of
all controls and accessories.
  Read the warranty carefully and note the services that are free and
those for which you must pay.  No warranty, however, will cover normal
wear or abusive use.

INSPECTION
  Examine the exterior for dents, irregularities, or paint scratches.
  Check the interior for wrinkled or misfit floor mats; look at the
seats, door panels, and headlining for scuffs, tears, or crooked seams.
  Open and shut the doors to see if they fit the frames and latch
properly.
  Roll the windows up and down. Do they work smoothly and close all the
way?
  Look in the trunk for the spare wheel and tire, the tire jack, and the
lug wrench.  Ask the salesman or service manager to show you how to
operate the jack.
  Look in the engine compartment.  Is it clean and new looking?  Ask the
salesman to show you how to check the oil and coolant levels.

PERFORMANCE TEST
  Start the engine and listen for any roughness or noise after it has
warmed up.
  For an automatic transmission, set the emergency brake and then shift
to "drive."  The engine should continue to run smoothly and not stall.
  Road test the car.  It should accelerate without jerks or hesitations,
the brakes should work evenly and effectively, and the steering should
be responsive and smooth.
  Try the horn and the windshield wipers and washer. Have the salesman
try all the lights and the turn signals while you stand outside the car
and check their operation.
  If the car fails to satisfy you on any of these points, insist that
the fault be corrected before you accept delivery.
  In addition, be sure you understand the warranty provisions.  What
free repairs and services does it offer? When must you bring in the car
for checks and adjustments?

--------------------------------
  The Break-In Period
--------------------------------
  You can avoid a number of service and repair problems for your new car
by careful driving for the first 2,000 miles while the moving parts are
"seating in."  Follow the directions in your Owner's Manual and these
supplementary suggestions.
  During the first 1,000 miles, drive at moderate speeds. Accelerate
gently, especially in the lower gears, and vary the speed frequently. Do
not pull a trailer.
  During the next 1,000 miles, accelerate moderately, change speed
occasionally during highway driving, and don't pull a trailer.
  Every few days, inspect the driveway or garage floor where you park.
If you find a spot, observe its color and location under the car so you
can pass the information along to the service technician.  Leak repair
should be free during the warranty period.
  Continue occasional checks for leaks as long as you own the car.

----------------------------------------------
  Regular Care and Preventive Service Signals
----------------------------------------------
  Skipping routine care or skimping on adjustments is directly to blame
for many car repair costs and can permanently cripple your automobile.
So can missing or ignoring early clues to faulty operation.
  To help you avoid such mistakes, the working parts and systems of
modern cars are outlined below together with the usual maintenance and
the more common signals for preventive service.  For the exact
procedures for your car, consult your Owner's Manual.

CARBURETOR
  The carburetor, which delivers a mixture of fuel and air to the engine
cylinders, requires periodic checking.  Idle speed and automatic choke
adjustments should be made, if necessary, at each tune-up and are
particularly important in the spring and fall because of seasonal
changes in gasoline formulas.
  Service Signals:  Hard steering, hesitation when you press the
accelerator, stalling at stop lights, idling too fast or too slow, a
sluggish feel at road speeds, a tendency to "run on" after you turn off
the ignition, or poor gasoline mileage.

CARBURETOR AIR CLEANER
  If your carburetor has a dry air cleaner, the filter element should be
replaced periodically. Between replacements, check occasionally to see
the filter has no holes or other damage and tap it gently to dislodge
dirt. Never wash it or try to clean it with air under pressure.
  If the carburetor has a wet (oil bath) filter, it should be cleaned
and the oil changed as the automobile manufacturer recommends.
  Service Signals:  Hard starting, poor mileage, or loss of power.

EMISSION CONTROL DEVICES
  Modifications of ignition and carburetion cut down air pollution from
exhaust gases while other devices decrease fumes from the gas tank,
carburetor, and crank-case.  The manufacturer's recommendations for
maintenance and adjustment should be followed precisely; otherwise,
operating problems may develop.
  Service Signals:  Hard starting, stalling, hesitation, "running on"
after the ignition is turned off, or poor gasoline mileage.

ENGINE VALVES
  The intake valves admit the fuel/air mixture from the carburetor into
the engine cylinders;  the exhaust valves permit the escape of waste
gases after the gasoline burns. Mechanical lifters to open and close the
valves should be adjusted at every tune-up or as the manufacturer
recommends. Hydraulic valve lifters do not normally require adjustment.
  Service Signals:  Loss of power, a ragged or uneven feel to engine
performance, a light clattering noise, or hard starting - especially
when the engine is cold.

ELECTRICAL CHARGING SYSTEM
  When you start your car, the source of electrical current is the
battery. After the car is running, the source is the alternator or
generator, and a voltage regulator protects the battery from overcharge.
Check the battery water level often and add water, preferably distilled,
as needed.  Battery cable connections should be kept clean and tight.
  Service Signals:  Sluggish starting, dim lights when the engine isn't
running, or the battery frequently needs water.

IGNITION SYSTEM
  Electricity from the battery, alternator, or generator flows to the
coil where it is stepped up to higher voltage.  From the coil, the
current travels to the distributor, which channels it to the spark plugs
in the engine cylinders.  At each plug, the current ignites the fuel/air
mixture.  Periodically, the ignition system should be checked and the
spark plugs and distributor points changed as needed.
  Some recently built cars are equipped with an electronic ignition
system that creates a hotter spark, reduces or eliminates point wear,
lenghtens spark plug life, provides more precise ignition control, and,
in general, requires less frequent maintenance.
  Service Signals:  Hard starting, uneven acceleration, loss of power at
high speed, rough idle, or a partial or complete "miss" in one or more
cylinders causing rough performance and a severe loss of power.

TIMING SYSTEM
  For efficient engine operation, the spark plug must fire in each
cylinder at precisely the right moment. This firing is regulated by the
distributor, which can be adjusted to advance or retard the timing of
the spark.
  Service Signals:  Hard starting, pinging, or a rough feel during
driving if the timing is too "fast;"  hard starting, sluggish
performance, excessive gasoline consumption, or overheating if the
timing is too "slow."

GASOLINE
  Gasoline with too low an octane rating for your engine will burn
unevenly, or explode, inside the cylinders instead of smoothly producing
power.  The usual symptom is a light clattering or pinging during
acceleration or when the engine is pulling hard.  Continued use of the
wrong gasoline could result in serious damage.
  Gasoline with an unnecessarily high rating, however, costs you extra
money and wastes energy. If your car accelerates without ping on the gas
you use now, try a tankful of the next lower octane.  After the car has
warmed up, accelerate hard from a full stop.  If the engine pings, go
back to the higher octane.  If it doesn't, repeat the test with gas with
a still lower rating.

ENGINE OIL, OIL FILTER AND LUBRICATION
  Have the oil level checked at least every other time you fill up with
gasoline.  If the level is at or below the "add" mark on the dipstick,
put in oil of the type specified for your particular model of car.  Do
not use additives unless they are called for by the automobile
manufacturer.  Have the oil changed at recommended intervals.
  Generally, the filter is changed every other time the oil is changed;
but if you live in a dusty climate or do a lot of stop-and-start
driving, your mechanic may suggest a filter change with every oil
change.
  For lubrication, follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
  Service Signals:  If the oil warning light shows red while the engine
is running at or above idle speed, turn the engine off immediately. Oil
is not reaching all the engine parts, and continued operation will
result in major engine damage.

TRANSMISSION FLUID
  Check the fluid level at intervals in either a manual or an automatic
transmission, and replace the fluid at recommended mileages with the
type specified for your car model.  Learn the correct checking
procedures. For example, if you have an automatic transmission, the
engine must be running and, usually, the shift should be in the "park"
position.
  Service Signals:  Whine during driving, uneven growling noises, or
jerky acceleration.

CLUTCH
  In a car with a manual transmission, depressing the pedal disengages
the clutch, slows the transmission gear rotation, and permits you to
shift gears. Clutch linkage should be checked and adjusted at regular
intervals.
  Service Signals:  A tendency for the gears to clash when you shift,
clutch slippage under startup or hard acceleration, or clutch "chatter"
at startup.

BRAKES
  All late-model, U.S.-built automobiles using conventional drum and
shoe brakes have assemblies that adjust automatically for wear unless
mechanical troubles develop. Disc brakes, also, need no adjustment. All
brakes, however, should be inspected as recommended by the manufacturer,
and the brake linings or disc pads should be replaced as needed.
Occasionally, brake fluid must be replenished.
  Service Signals:  A spongy feel when you press the brake pedal, longer
pedal movement, scraping noises, or the car pulls to ne side when
slowing or stopping.  Uneven or grabby brakes are especially dangerous
on slippery surfaces.

TIRE PRESSURE
  Correct tire pressure is necessary for safe driving, good tire
mileage, and responsive steering.  Check at least monthly that your
tires (and the spare) are at the recommended pressure.  Buy a good tire
gage and learn to use it;  air towers at service stations are frequently
incorrect. Occasionally inspect the tire treads.  Wear on the edges
indicates too little pressure; too much causes excessive wear in the
center.  When the car is on a lift for an oil change, have the tires
inspected for cuts, bruises, or tread separations.
  This precaution could prevent a blowout.
  Service Signals:  Pulling to right or left, uneven braking, or
excessive squealing on corners.

TIRE BALANCE
  Tires should be kept in balance for comfortable and safe driving and
for long tread life. For the best results, have the tires spin balanced
on the car whenever vibration becomes objectionable.  Follow the
recommended tire rotation for your automobile make and model and the
type of tire.
  Service Signals:  Vibration, usually felt through the steering wheel
for the front tires or through the seat for the rear tires.

FRONT SUSPENSION
  Front wheel suspensions should be properly aligned at all times for
safe handling and economical tire wear, but pot holes and other rough
road conditions may gradually throw wheels out of alignment.
  Service Signals:  Abnormal or uneven tire wear, or the car pulls hard
to the right or left during driving even when tire pressure and balance
are correct.

LIGHTS
  Headlamps must be set to provide maximum road illumination and minimum
glare for oncoming motorists.  Check periodically to be sure all lights
are in working order.

AIR ENGINE-COOLING SYSTEM
  Air-cooled cars have a powerful fan, driven by a belt from the engine,
that forces a large volume of air over the hot engine.  The fan belt
should be regulary checked for correct tension and freedom from wear. If
the fan belt should break while you are driving, STOP THE ENGINE
IMMEDIATELY OR IT WILL OVERHEAT.

AIR CONDITIONER
  Just before the operating season, have the drive belt checked for
correct tension and examine the liquid in the sight glass for bubbles
that could mean the system needs more refrigerant.  During the winter,
most conditioners will benefit from a 5-minute workout every 2 or 3
weeks as long as the temperature is above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Check
with your mechanic to see if this is good advice for your particular
car.
  Service Signals:  A drop in cooling power, unusual noises from the
fan, or rapid cycling of the compressor.  You can hear the compressor
click off and on or detect the added load on the engine.

LIQUID ENGINE-COOLING SYSTEM
  All the car engines presently manufactured in the United States are
cooled by a liquid-circulating system assisted by a fan.  The system
includes a liquid coolant (water plus antifreeze), hoses, a water pump,
a thermostat, and a radiator.
  Ask the service attendant to check the coolant level in the system
every other time you fill up with gasoline.  Whenever you have the car
in for routine maintenance, have the mechanic check the hoses for
soundness and the belt that drives the fan for correct tension.  Have
the belt replaced if it is frayed. Each spring and fall have the
concentration of the antifreeze-water mixture tested; if too little of
the antifreeze is present, you are inviting either a freezeup or a
boilover.
  Service Signals:  The temperature gage often reads high, or you must
frequently add liquid to the system.

--------------------------------
  Overheating Countermeasures
--------------------------------
  If you are in stopped traffic and the temperature gage reads in the
danger zone, take these steps, one after the other.  You may not need to
take them all:

  * Shift to neutral and press the accelerator one quarter down.  Be
    sure the air conditioner is turned off, and stay at least a car
    length behind the car ahead.

  * Open the windows and turn on the heater.  This will make you
    uncomfortable but may prevent a boilover.

  * As soon as possible, pull over, open the hood, and turn the engine
    off and let it cool. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP WHILE IT
    IS HOT.

  * After the engine cools, drive slowly to a service station to
    identify the cause of overheating unless you have lost radiator
    coolant by boilover. For lost coolant, add enough water to drive to
    a service station for repairs and new coolant.

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  Checking Gasoline Mileage
--------------------------------
  One of the best signs that a car has a clean bill of health is good
gasoline mileage. Between tune-ups or other scheduled maintenance, you
can check your car's performance by the method outlined below.

  * Have gas put in the tank until it is exactly full at the filler
    neck.  At the same time, record the mileage reading on the dashboard
    odometer.

  * Drive until the tank is almost empty;  a calculation based on fewer
    miles or gallons is less accurate.  Then, have the tank refilled to
    the same level on the filler neck, and write down the gas pump
    reading in gallons and the new odometer reading in miles.

  * Subtract the original odometer reading from the new one to obtain
    the miles traveled between gasoline fills.

  * Divide the miles traveled by the gallons required to refill the
    tank.  The answer is the miles the car traveled on each gallon of
    gas, or the gasoline mileage.

  If the result is poorer mileage than that listed in the Owner's Manual
for your model or markedly inferior to your last check, take the car to
a mechanic. Until its efficiency is restored, it will waste money and
gasoline and probably add pollutants to the air.

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  How To Get The Best Service
--------------------------------
  When your car is in the shop, you want an honest judgment of the
service needed plus skilled, careful workmanship.  This combination can
extend the life of your car, save you money and time, and enable you to
drive safely and confidently.  The following tips should help you obtain
such service.

OBSERVE THE WARRANTY
  During the warranty period, have the car serviced exactly as
recommended. Routine maintenance may be performed at an independent
garage or service station without violating the warranty agreement; but
be sure to keep a receipt showing the mileage reading, the date, and the
nature of the service.
  For repairs under warranty, you must take the car to an authorized
dealer.

USE BUSINESS SAFEGUARDS
  When repair of service is necessary after the warranty period, be sure
to take the following steps:

  * Inquire if the shop offers a warranty on service and replacement
    parts and how long it is effective.

  * Tell the service manager, the service advisor, or the mechanic ALL
    the car's symptoms and problems, and be sure he understands what you
    are saying. Master mechanics complain that they often have to "read
    the customer's mind."

  * Then, find out exactly what work is to be done and, if possible,
    obtain a written estimate.  At least write out a list for yourself
    and keep it. INSIST

THAT THE SHOP OBTAIN YOUR APPROVAL BEFORE DOING ANY ADDITIONAL WORK.
  If you suspect the shop's estimate includes unnecessary repairs,
either obtain another estimate from different shop or take the car to a
diagnostic center. One that charges a fee for diagnosis but does no
repairs is the most apt to give an unbiased report.
  When you pick up the car after repairs, check each item on the list or
estimate.  Do not accept the car unless everything is complete and
satisfactory.
  If parts have been replaced, ask for the old ones to take with you.
If they are too large or messy to carry, ask to see them.
  Road test the car before your drive home, and return it to the garage
immediately if it is not performing well.  Don't wait until tomorrow;
your claim for corrective service will be weakened.

CULTIVATE CAR FRIENDS
  Try to use the same mechanic every time you have your car serviced.
This may not be possible if you deal with a large garage;  but you can
establish a relationship with the service manager or one particular
service advisor so that he remembers your car and its special needs.
  When work is good, stop by and tell the dealer or the service manager,
and ask him to pass on your compliment to the mechanic. It will be time
well invested.
  Unsatisfactory work over a period of time, however, is an indication
to change shops. Inquire in the neighborhood, and ask your friends to
recommend a reputable firm.
  If you would prefer an independent garage or service center, you can
write to the Automotive Service Councils, Inc., 4001 Warren Boulevard,
Hillside, Illinois 60162, for information on their National Warranty
Program.  Participating shops give a customer a written guarantee
covering labor and parts.  A faulty repair may be corrected at any other
participating shop if the customer is not able to return to the original
one.
  Or, for $1.75 you can purchase a copy of WHERE TO FIND A CERTIFIED
MECHANIC, a nationwide list of shops whose employees have passed special
tests on automotive repairs.  To order, send a check to Employers
Directory, National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, Suite
515, 1825 K Street, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20006.

KNOW HOW TO COMPLAIN
  At a dealership, talk to the owner about poor service or inadequate
repairs. If he refuses to give you satisfaction, consult your Owner's
Manual or the warranty for the address of the nearest district office of
the company, and write or telephone the customer service representative.
The next step, if you must take it, is to talk with or write to the vice
president for sales at the company headquarters. Keep copies of all
repair orders, receipts, and correspondence.
  If these steps fail, you may wish to contact one of the pilot project
AUTOCAP's - or Automotive Consumer Action Panels - in which local or
State automotive trade associations and consumer representatives seek to
resolve customer difficulties.  To learn if an AUTOCAP has been
established in your locality and if it can handle your particular
problem, write to the National Automobile Dealers Association, 1640
Westpark Drive, McLean, Virginia 22101. AUTOCAP's were initiated at the
request of the U.S. Office of Consumer Affairs.
  At a private garage or service center, also talk with the owner about
a complaint.  If the problem is not resolved, check to see if a
municipal, county, or State consumer agency can help you.  You can also
appeal to the local office of the Better Business Bureaus or write to
the U.S.  Office of Consumer Affairs, Washington, D.C. 20201.
  As a last resort, pay the bill and then see a lawyer.