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- BEAR STORIES AND LOOKOUT TALES
-
- PART II
-
- I am the author of these short shories and they are freely distributable as
- "etext". I hope you enjoy them.
-
- Robert B. Graham
- 6125-A Summer St.
- Honolulu, Hawaii 96821
- (808) 395-9360
- Prodigy - WTKW87A
-
- Internet - bgraham@ uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.edu
-
-
- ===================================================================
-
- Eggs, Eggs, and More Eggs
-
-
- As I mentioned, the food supply that was packed in included a half
- case of eggs. Now, how do you use half of a case of eggs before
- they spoil? As an example, if you could eat two eggs for breakfast
- every day, you would use only sixty eggs in a month. Then, if you
- also make pancakes for breakfast every day, you would use another
- thirty. Biscuits every day -- another thirty. So, at most, you
- could use up a hundred and twenty eggs a month, or ten dozen. But,
- a half case held fifteen dozen and only stayed good about a month.
- After a month the eggs had a bad taste and didn't smell so good.
-
- What do you do with over five dozen rotten eggs? Well, there were
- a lot of ground squirrels around the lookout. One of my favorite
- pastimes was to go out on the catwalk and search for an
- unsuspecting ground squirrel that was within arm's length of the
- rail. The idea was to hold out an egg directly over him. Then, at
- the right time just let it go -- SPLAT!!
-
- If my aim was good, it ended up with a real messy ground squirrel
- that let out a squeal and took off like a shot for his hole. If I
- missed, he would cartwheel into the air and then sit down and lick
- himself off. What fun.
-
-
- Old Potatoes
-
-
- A bushel of potatoes is a lot to eat. After about a month or so,
- the potatoes started to grow sprouts and just generally go bad.
-
- Now, down the hill a short way, we kept a block of salt for a salt
- lick. In the evening the deer would come up the mountain to the
- lick. It was not uncommon to have half a dozen deer at the lick in
- the evening.
-
- Rather than just dump the old potatoes, I'd wait until evening when
- the deer came to the salt lick. Then take some of the potatoes, go
- out on the catwalk and see if I could hit a deer with one. Usually
- I missed. But if the potato hit close, particularly if it lit
- right under the deer, that animal would leap straight up in the
- air. It always amazed me how high they could jump -- a real,
- standing high-jump.
-
- Then the deer would look around to see what it was, sniff at it and
- finally eat it. Old potatoes weren't totally wasted.
-
-
- Mail
-
-
- The phone lines from all of the lookouts went into Sylvanite --
- each line had one or more lookouts or guard stations on it. Now,
- all that had to be done was to have Dave, at Sylvanite, switch all
- of the different circuits onto the main line and all of us could
- talk.
-
- In the evening, if the fire danger was low, we would all get
- together this way, just to shoot the breeze. Seemed there was
- always something interesting going on, or we would just gossip.
-
- We were all of high school age so the most interesting thing to all
- of us was, what else -- girls! How do you communicate with girls if
- you can't see them, talk to them or even mail letters to them (let
- alone get letters from them). This posed some real challenges --
- with some interesting solutions.
-
- When mail came into Sylvanite for us, Dave would call up and tell
- us that we had a letter. We then had two choices. One was to wait
- and see if someone might be coming up to the lookout in a
- reasonable amount of time. If not, we would just have to wait until
- September when we came off of the mountain. The other choice was,
- to swear Dave to secrecy, get him to open the letter and read it
- over the phone. With this latter course, we also ran the risk of
- someone eavesdropping on the line. Even with that risk, this was
- the choice we almost always made.
-
- The way we sent letters was to first write them out on paper. Then
- we'd call up Dave, read them to him and have him copy and sign them
- for us. I was able to keep up a lively correspondence with four
- girls that summer.
-
- One evening we all got to talking about our favorite subject. We
- decided for all of us to jointly coauthor a "letter to end all
- letters". We worked on it for a whole week -- agreeing to this
- phrase or that description, changing this word or that --
- polishing, polishing all the time. Finally, our "jewel" was
- complete. We called Dave and each of us gave him a list of girl's
- names and addresses to send our creation to.
-
- Dave tried to talk us out of this -- he tried to impress upon us
- that it just wasn't the right thing to do. But we were all adamant.
- Reluctantly he agreed to do it. He did it all right, he did it in
- a way that really fixed all of us. He put four sets of carbon in
- his typewriter, and sent all of our girls carbon copies. Boy, the
- letters we got back!
-
-
- The "Fall Rains" Come
-
-
- One morning I woke up and it was cold. The mountain was blanketed
- in a heavy layer of clouds and it was snowing. After building a
- roaring fire in the stove, I finally thawed out a bit. After
- breakfast, I climbed down from the tower and went over and checked
- my rain gauge -- twenty-two hundredths of an inch. What had seemed
- like heavy storms before had only left three or four hundredths of
- an inch of rain. I checked into Sylvanite and gave them my rain
- report. They told me to see how the storm developed.
-
- By noon the snow had changed to a steady rain. I checked the gauge
- again -- another thirty hundredths. That made over a half an inch
- of rain so far that day. Checking in again, to give Dave my report,
- Albert Brightenstein, the Alternate Ranger, answered my ring, "the
- weather forecast from Libby is for two more days of heavy rain. Do
- you want to come down for a week or so?" Was he kidding? I had been
- on Roderick Mountain for two months now and he asked if I wanted to
- come down! "Sure", I told him.
-
- "It's a long hike down Burnt Creek. You'd better pack up and get
- started, if you want to get here before dark." I knew Albert pretty
- well, so I asked, "Can you meet me with the pick-up at the bottom
- of the Pleasant Mountain trail on Seventeenmile Creek in an hour
- and a half?" Now, the Pleasant Mountain trail was the trail
- straight down the south side of the mountain, no switchbacks, just
- loose dirt and rock. But only four miles to the road along
- Seventeenmile Creek. He said sure, he would be there.
-
- The "Fall rains" that came each year, about the end of August or
- early September, had arrived and broken the back of the fire
- season. My job was over.
-
- I packed up all my worldly possessions into a back pack. Then I
- rolled up my sleeping bag, stored it in the attic out of the reach
- of packrats and stored away all of the other gear. Going outside on
- the catwalk, I lowered and fastened the heavy shutters over the
- windows to protect them from storms. After putting my fire out, I
- climbed up on the roof, stuffed a rag down the stove pipe to keep
- the wind from blowing soot back into the lookout and then wired a
- tin can over the end to keep rain and snow out. I took one last
- drink of water and emptied all of the waterbags. This seemed such
- a waste. It had taken so much effort packing the water up from the
- spring to fill them. Finally I padlocked the door and climbed down
- the stairs. At the bottom, I turned and raised the stairs with the
- rope, fastening it so bears couldn't get up. It had taken me less
- that an hour to close up. I looked back at what had been my home
- for two months. I would miss it.
-
- I shouldered my pack. Then taking a deep breath, and with one long
- step, I started down the Pleasant Mountain trail at a fast lope.
- With each big step, I would slide down the loose dirt in the trail
- -- "Flew" down trail is more like it, faster than I had ever gone
- down any trail before. I wanted off the mountain. A Forest Service
- truck was coming up the Seventeenmile Creek road, but I was at the
- trail head before it got there -- four miles in a half an hour.
-
- It was exciting to see someone. I babbled on, non-stop, until we
- got back to Sylvanite. Once there, I had to talk to everyone.
-
- Taking a hot shower in the bunkhouse, was a real luxury -- compared
- to my weekly baths in a wash tub, heated on the wood stove.
-
- There was a truck going into Troy that afternoon, so I hitched a
- ride on it. What a sight to see the big town of Troy.
-
- After the last two months, I felt like a grown man. First thing I
- did was to go into the barbershop, sit down in the chair, and say
- to the barber -- "Shave and a haircut, please".
-
-
- 1946, the Second Year
-
-
- The next year, 1946, I went up to Sylvanite in early May. This time
- I was an experienced hand so I asked for Mt. Baldy Lookout. Baldy
- was supposed to be the best in the district. At least that was its
- reputation. I spent May and June working around the district --
- going to town every weekend.
-
-
- A Weekend
-
-
- Jim, one of the other lookouts, and I went to Troy for the weekend.
- We got there about noon Saturday and had a bowl of chili in the
- restaurant. There's not much going on in Troy so we decided to
- hitchhike to Bonners Ferry, Idaho. We went out on US 2 to catch a
- ride, but we stood there waiting and waiting and there just didn't
- seem to be any traffic at all. Finally we gave up and walked back
- into town.
-
- The freight trains stopped at Troy. The restaurant was right across
- from the tracks. While the engineer and conductor were eating and
- nobody was looking, we snuck over and climbed into an empty ore car
- on the north bound train. We kept our heads down -- didn't know
- what to expect.
-
- We heard men talking, then the crunch of boots on gravel as someone
- walked past. The engine gave a couple of toots. Next, we heard a
- rhythmic banging coming from the front of the train that sounded
- like it was coming at us very fast -- BANG, the jolt knocked us off
- of our feet, and tumbled us to the floor of the ore car. What it
- was was the slack in the couplings between each car being taken up
- as the engine started to pull. We were off!
-
- Finally, got enough nerve to poke our heads above the edge of the
- car and look around. It was windy, we were moving at a good speed,
- a lot faster than the cars and trucks on the dirt road between Troy
- and Bonners Ferry.
-
- The smoke from the engine would drift back from time to time and we
- would choke. At one point we went through a short tunnel and
- thought we would choke to death on the fumes.
-
- The train stopped in the freight yard at Bonners Ferry and we
- hopped off.
-
- It was getting late and we were done fooling around town, so we
- decided to go back to Troy the same way. We went back to the
- freight yard. There we talked to some men that were hanging around
- and asked about any trains leaving for Montana -- they told us a
- freight train was headed back down the line. We climbed in an empty
- box car this time, not wanting to ride back at night in an open ore
- car.
-
- It was after midnight when the freight finally pulled into Troy. We
- were cold and shivering. It was too late to go out to the Troy
- Ranger Station to spend the night and we didn't have money for a
- room.
-
- I had gotten to know the Town Marshall pretty well the last year.
- He was sitting in the restaurant drinking coffee. So we sat down
- next to him and started a conversation. Finally I asked him if we
- could spend the night in his jail.
-
- He walk down with us, unlocked the door and opened a cell. We spent
- the night in the Troy Jail.
-
-
- BRC Camp
-
-
- We had some new neighbors up on Burnt Creek. A Blister Rust Control
- camp had been built on the creek up there.
-
- Blister Rust is a disease that affects the White Pine. The host
- plant, that is part of the disease cycle, is the gooseberry. The
- disease was controlled by removing all of the gooseberry bushes in
- the infected area. It took a large crew to do this for they would
- work a whole drainage. The immediate area to be worked was first
- divided into strips about fifty feet wide. This was done by having
- a small crew, called (appropriately enough) the "string ball crew",
- run strings up and down the slope to be worked about fifty feet
- apart. Then a much larger crew, each about four or five feet apart,
- armed with small picks, worked each strip, digging out all of the
- gooseberry bushes, or "ribeys" as they were called.
-
- This was hot, dirty, and I thought, boring work. That's why I
- worked for the District, and not for the Blister Rust.
-
- There was something special about this camp, they were all Mexican
- Nationals contracted to do this work. I found out that several of
- my friends were strawbosses at the camp. So, one Saturday I hiked
- up Burnt Creek to visit the camp.
-
- I got there just before lunch time and met my friends, who showed
- me around the camp. Then we all went over to the mess hall to eat.
- The cooks were from Mexico and the food definitely Mexican. It was
- good.
-
- Afterward, we were sitting at the table talking. On the table, by
- the salt and pepper was a bowl of dried red chili peppers, each
- about three inches long. I asked about them. One of the guys said
- they were for the workers and he said "They eat them just like
- crackers. I'll bet you two bits that you can't eat just one". I
- took the bet. I ate it all right -- then made a dash for the water
- pump and tried to quench the fire. That was the hardest two bits I
- every earned.
-
-
- Pete Creek Cabin
-
-
- The Forest Service had a cabin, about twelve miles up Pete Creek,
- that served as a Guard Station during fire season. It was about
- thirty miles from Sylvanite, making it too far to drive back and
- forth each day. So, during the early part of the summer a work crew
- stayed there and used the cabin as home base.
-
- It was not a large cabin -- just room enough for a crew of four. A
- typical log cabin -- windows on two sides, one door and a porch --
- four bunks and a wood stove completed the furnishings. There were
- heavy wooden shutters to cover the windows when the cabin was not
- in use.
-
- Gus was our crew boss. One Monday we drove a truck up to Pete Creek
- cabin. We maintained roads, trails and phone lines out of the cabin
- for a week. At the end of the week we locked up the cabin and came
- back to Sylvanite to spend the weekend. We were tired of our own
- cooking.
-
- We went back up the following Monday and found that the cabin had
- been torn into. The shutter on one window had been literally torn
- off and something had gone right through the locked door. Inside,
- our food had been ransacked -- it was scattered all over the floor.
- Looking at it closer, we found jars of jam where the lid had been
- unscrewed and then the jar licked completely clean -- cans of milk
- had been bitten and then drunk -- loaves of sliced bread had been
- split open and each slice taken out of both halves without tearing
- the paper. Whatever it was had taken our side of bacon and then
- just walked through the locked door.
-
- We searched around the cabin and finally found where it had crossed
- the creek. There were prints in the soft earth that were one heck
- of a lot bigger than my feet -- at least half again as long and
- twice as wide. Up the hill we found where the grass was packed
- down. It looked like it had bedded down at that spot and waited
- there for us to leave.
-
- Now Gus lived in the Yaak -- had a small farm up on the North Fork.
- He call Sylvanite and told them what had happen. Then he drove up
- to his place for a rifle to have in case our visitor came back. We
- continued to work that week, and had no more encounters. That
- weekend we went back down to Sylvanite. When we came back, same
- thing had happened.
-
- It was decided that we should come back down, but leave Gus there
- to stake the place out. After three days and no visitor, Gus came
- down early in the morning to get more supplies and bring us back.
- We were back to the cabin before noon and found that our "friend"
- had visited in the short time that we were all gone.
-
- This went on all summer long -- no one ever saw the animal, and it
- only "hit" the cabin when no one was there. All along everyone
- thought it was a large grizzly because of the enormous size of it's
- footprints -- looking back, now I just don't know.
-
-
- Mt. Baldy
-
-
- Baldy was the first lookout to go up each year. It was a fairly
- easy four mile hike by trail, from the Yaak River Road up to the
- lookout. This short trail meant a better chance to have visitors
- than Roderick, which was much more remote. More mail, see people,
- fresh food, that was the good side of Baldy.
-
- But Baldy was one of the oldest lookouts in the forest, let alone
- the district. It was a log cabin -- an old log cabin. They had
- built a five-foot by five-foot cupola on top of the cabin to mount
- the Osborn firefinder in. Then a hole had been cut through floor of
- the cupola, through the cabin roof and then on through the ceiling.
- A ladder was then nailed up through this series of holes so that
- you could climb straight up into the cupola -- nice, you didn't
- have to go outside. There also was an outside stairway up the side
- of the cabin, across the roof, to the catwalk around the cupola, in
- case you wanted to go up that way.
-
- Another thing about a log cabin is -- you just can't make it tight
- enough to keep mice and packrats out. Mice, they were the cute
- brown and white field mice. All I had to do was keep my food stored
- so they couldn't get into it -- they didn't really bother me. But
- the packrats were something else -- they would get into anything,
- clothes, letters, sleeping bag, and chew it up. I kept up a
- constant war with them. I had a .22 rifle with me and shot a lot of
- them, but it didn't seem to make a dent in the population that
- lived above my ceiling. At night, they sounded like they were
- having a square dance up there.
-
- Baldy overlooked Spread Creek on the north. To the east, you could
- see where the Yaak Post Office was and see car lights on the road
- at night. South, you were looking right down to Sylvanite about
- nine miles away. It was pretty well centrally located.
-
-
- Wind Speed
-
-
- There was a weather station on Baldy. It had the usual rain gauge,
- as on all lookouts. In addition, the daily minimum and maximum
- temperatures had to be recorded as well as the amount of moisture
- in wood. This was done by weighing a calibrated set of wooden
- sticks.
-
- Baldy also had an anemometer to measure the wind. The spinning cups
- of the anemometer were mounted on a pole about twenty feet high,
- set about fifty feet from the lookout. Inside of the spinning part
- was a set of electrical contacts. The contacts would close
- momentarily when the cups had turned around a certain number of
- times. A pair of wires were connected to the contacts and run from
- the pole to the lookout. There, a flashlight was connected between
- the wires. When the flashlight was turned on, it would blink on and
- off whenever the contacts in the anemometer closed and then opened.
- As I recall, the number of blinks per minute indicated the number
- of miles per hour of the wind.
-
- It was interesting to measure the real wind speed. On Roderick I
- could only guess at it. At times it had felt like the whole tower
- was coming down.
-
- The anemometer worked fine for slower winds -- say, up to about
- forty miles an hour. Up to fifty, I could read it reasonably. But
- over that, the light flashed so fast that it seemed to be on all of
- the time. I couldn't see the blinks.
-
- So, for winds over fifty, I had to guess. I guessed the wind was
- sixty -- when my rain gauge blew over. This occurred a number of
- times. I guessed it was seventy -- when the cabinet that my weather
- station was in overturned. That happened twice. It had to be EIGHTY
- when -- the shutters on the cabin were pulled so hard by the wind
- that the two-by-two braces that held them in place shattered like
- a gun shot -- and the shutters were wrenched off with a terrible
- crash and went fluttering down the hill like leaves in a breeze.
- This happened only once, and I was petrified.
-
-
- Fire Barrel
-
-
- A large snow bank, still unmelted, was on the north side of the
- mountain. This was convenient. I used it as a natural refrigerator.
- After making a screened box, which I buried in the side of the snow
- bank, I was able to store the fresh things I had brought up with
- me. Also, opened things, like canned milk, could be stored there
- and wouldn't spoil so fast.
-
- There was a fifty-five gallon drum outside of the cabin. It had to
- be kept filled with water, in case of fire in the cabin. I just
- shoveled it full of snow -- this sure beat packing water on my back
- from the spring to fill the darn thing.
-
- It was about the first of August, when something around the lookout
- started to smell bad. It got worse and worse -- a terrible stink.
- I couldn't find what was causing it or figure out where it was
- coming from.
-
- One day, I decided to check the fire barrel to make sure there was
- still water in it. When I took the lid off, the smell just about
- knocked me over. Phew!! After looking inside, I remembered -- I had
- brought two heads of cabbage up with me. I had put one on top of
- the snow in the barrel and put the lid on -- thinking to myself,
- that ought to keep it fresh and from spoiling!
-
-
- Blizzard
-
-
- Weather seemed to be a lot colder this year than last. We had a
- number of snow storms. The worst one came in August.
-
- When I woke up, it was overcast, with a sharp, cold wind blowing.
- I went out to the wood pile, brought in a big supply and got a
- roaring fire going in the stove. The temperature continued to drop
- -- the fire just couldn't keep the cabin warm. It started to snow
- and the wind picked up. Pretty soon, I couldn't see out of the
- windows -- they were covered with snow. I kept stoking the fire
- with wood. Finally, I just took off my boots, opened the oven door
- and put my feet, with two pair of wool socks on, right inside the
- oven. I stayed that way until late afternoon.
-
- Finally the wind died down, the snow stopped and the sun peaked out
- from under the dark clouds. I pulled my feet out of the oven, put
- on my boots and opened the front door.
-
- Looking toward the sun -- I was blinded. There was a snow drift,
- four feet deep against the cabin and a foot and a half of snow
- stuck to the north and the west sides of the cabin. On the south
- and east, there wasn't any snow -- it had blown clear over the
- mountain. Everything was frozen, including the wind gauge, and
- everything had icicles sticking out horizontally. What a blizzard -
- - and in August.
-
-
- The "Condor"
-
-
- One of my hobbies was making model airplanes. Each new one was a
- different challenge. I decided I would have enough time up on Baldy
- to build a real, big one.
-
- At a store in Libby I found a model of a Condor glider. It had an
- eight-foot wing span. The picture on the box showed a beautiful
- free-flying glider, with gull shaped wings. I could just visualize
- it sailing out over the forest, climbing higher and higher -- I was
- hooked. That was just what I was looking for. So, I bought it.
-
- Now, you don't just load something like that, a fragile box, full
- of balsa wood, onto a pack mule. All that would get to the lookout
- would be sawdust. Even packing it up in my backpack took some doing
- -- the box that the kit came in was four feet long.
-
- To build it, I had to dedicate my table in the cabin. The first
- step was to spread out the plans, tack them to the table and cover
- them with wax paper, to keep the glue from sticking. Next, I pinned
- each strip of balsa in place with straight pins and glued each
- joint with model airplane glue. As each section was finished, I
- would hang it on nails that I drove into log wall. This went on for
- almost a month.
-
- When all sections were finished, it was then time to put the paper
- skin on. First, I spread glue on the edges, and stretched the skin
- smooth. After drying, I would trim it and spray it with water to
- make the paper shrink tight. Finally I assembled the wing sections
- together -- eight feet long. Then I completed the body and tail.
- After putting the wing and body together, I looked at it all
- assembled -- what a beauty. It was snow white, no other color. I
- hung it from the ceiling of the cabin for a couple of days, just to
- admire it.
-
- All of this time I kept telling the other lookouts, during our
- evening phone time, about the progress.
-
- One morning in mid-August, the wind was just a whisper. I took my
- Condor outside -- hooked a loop of string to the hook below the
- nose and gently let it start to climb. It went up like a kite,
- until I guess it was a hundred feet in the air. Then I jerked to
- release the string. The big Condor started to spiral up, and up,
- and up -- constantly moving eastward. It flew and flew, until it
- was just a white speck in the blue sky. Finally I couldn't see it
- any longer. I have no idea where it came down, but it was a real
- thrill to see my Condor fly almost perfectly -- out of sight.
-
-
- Strike!
-
-
- It was a dark, overcast day, with lightning hitting all around the
- district. There seemed to be a general storm all over. I was in the
- cupola watching the lightning strikes -- recording where they came
- down, so I could check later for "smokes".
-
- I was checking north, over Spread Creek, when there was a blinding
- flash. I was stunned by the explosive crack of the thunder right on
- top of me and seemed to push me down to the floor. Lightning had
- hit the lookout! I must have stood there like a zombie for the
- longest time.
-
- Finally able to move -- I looked around for any damage, but
- couldn't see any. The flash had been right in front of my eyes. I
- looked closely at the lightning rod on the north end of the cabin -
- - instead of the sharp point on the top, there was now a quarter-
- inch round, shiny, copper ball.
-
-
- Smoke Chaser
-
-
- The phone rang. The code was for Baldy so I answered. It was Dave
- at Sylvanite, "Roderick and Grizzly both see a smoke on Hellroaring
- Creek. Coordinates are north-west quarter of Section 35, Township
- 64, Range 34. Can you see anything?" "Just a moment and I'll
- check", I told him. I raced up the stairs, spun the Osborn around
- to the coordinates Dave had given me and took a quick look through
- the sight. That way I would know the where they were seeing the
- smoke. Plugging in the phone, I went out on the cat-walk to get a
- better view. "Dave, I don't see anything. That is on the south side
- of the creek and my view may be blocked," I said. "I'll check with
- Roderick and Grizzly again and call you back. In the meantime,
- better get your smoke chaser pack ready while I'm checking", Dave
- advised.
-
- I ran down the stairs and took the smoke chaser pack off of its peg
- on the wall. It was a pack frame wrapped in a shelter-half (half of
- an Army pup tent). In it was shovel, a Pulaski, a flash light head
- lamp, a compass, a map of the Sylvanite District glued to a canvas
- backing. The pack also contained two days worth of Army "K"
- Rations. Rolling up my sleeping bag and strapping it to the pack,
- I then put in some extra clothes, a pair of socks and my jacket.
- The map and compass I put in my shirt pocket, I would need them to
- find the fire. After filling my canteen I called Sylvanite. Dave
- answered, "They both say that the smoke is getting heavier. You
- better get going". "OK, I'm on my way", I replied.
-
- Studying the map, it appeared I could follow the Spread Creek trail
- about a mile and a half and then cut south over to the Hellroaring
- Creek drainage about two miles to the fire. It always looks simple
- on the map, but I knew better. Finding a small fire could be very
- difficult. As a help, I had written down the azimuth readings
- Roderick and Grizzly had given so I could back sight on them if I
- could see their lookouts.
-
- So much for the plan, let's get going. When I estimated I had
- covered about a mile and a half I left the Spread Creek trail and
- started cross-country -- that's the hard part. Finally got to a
- rock outcrop. I couldn't see the fire but I could see Roderick.
- Taking a backsight, I figured I had to go south another mile. From
- a clearing further on I could see both Lookouts -- then the breeze
- shifted and I smelled smoke!
-
- Another quarter of a mile and I saw it. A dead snag had been hit by
- lightning. It was still on fire and had dropped burning limbs,
- spreading the fire down the hill about fifty feet into an area
- between and around some big rocks.
-
- Dropping my pack off to the side out of the way, I took the shovel
- and quickly trenched the uphill side of the snag. Then taking
- shovelfuls of dirt, I threw them at the burning limbs, knocking the
- flame out. That would slow it down, while I trenched the area
- below.
-
- This was hot, dirty work and required constant checking to make
- sure the fire didn't jump my trench at any point. The sun set. I
- put on the head lamp and continued trenching the fire. What had to
- be done was clear all pine needles and forest duff, right down to
- bare dirt a couple of feet wide -- chop out any roots across the
- trench -- throw dirt at any flames inside the perimeter to knock it
- down. Work as fast as possible.
-
- It must have been after midnight before I felt that I might have it
- under control enough to rest for a few minutes. I was starved. The
- thought of food made my mouth water. I opened a box of "K" Rations.
- What a let down -- stale crackers, powdered coffee and a small can
- of scrambled eggs and ham that tasted like something else, I'm not
- sure what. The only good thing was a fruit bar. And I had been told
- you couldn't starve on the stuff.
-
- Back to the fire. It became a mechanical routine, turn all the dirt
- over inside the perimeter shovelful by shovelful, knock down any
- flame -- just keep going and going. In the east it started to get
- light again, and finally the sun came up. It had been a long night
- but there was still a lot of ground to work.
-
- By about noon all of the flames were out and there were no longer
- any smoking areas inside the trenched perimeter. Now I had to make
- sure it was completely out. On hands and knees, I went over the
- whole area checking with my hands for any hot spots and turning
- them over in the dirt.
-
- It was dark when I finished. Rolling out my sleeping bag, I sat on
- it and ate one of the "K" Rations. I just stretched out and was
- instantly sound asleep. The next morning I checked the area again
- with my hands. It was all cold, no heat at all. The fire was dead.
- Now I could leave.
-
- Returning the way I came, I stopped at my spring for a long welcome
- drink of cold water. And then, without any hesitation, I pulled off
- all my clothes and proceeded to take a bath in ice water. Fighting
- fire was hard, hot, dirty work. Was ever I glad that job was done!
-
-
- Porcupine
-
-
- One night I dreamed that someone was sawing the cabin down. It was
- a weird dream -- they just kept sawing and finally it fell over the
- side of the mountain! It woke me up, and I was in a sweat, but the
- sawing continued, and I got really scared. I lay in my sleeping
- bag, thinking of everything it could be -- the Pete Creek bear?
- What kind of monster could be tearing the cabin down. Finally, I
- got up enough nerve, and got out of bed, put my boots on, slowly
- opened the door and peeked out. The moon was up and gave quite a
- bit of light -- but I couldn't see anything. After opening the door
- all the way, I went out and followed the sound. Around on the side
- of the cabin, one of the big shutters that was used to board up the
- window for the winter, was leaning up against the cabin. There was
- my ghost, a porcupine was gnawing on the shutter. It acted as a
- great, big, sounding board that amplified the noise. Wow!
-
- I went charging toward him to try to scare him away. He just
- waddled behind the big shutter. I pitched a rock at him. He waddled
- around the corner -- and right through the door I had left open,
- right into my cabin.
-
- It took me two hours to finally get him -- from behind the stove --
- out of the wood box -- out from under my bunk, leaving quills every
- place and finally -- out the door. I spent the next day collecting
- quills so I wouldn't jam one in my foot.
-
-
- Sheep Drive
-
-
- Fresh food was a real treat. Canned meat in particular got pretty
- old and there was just no way that I could eat one of those big
- cans of "spam" before it went bad -- or worse, the flies got to it
- -- yuk.
-
- Every summer, sheepherders drove a band of sheep up through the
- mountains in the Yaak. The sheep driveway went up by Northwest
- Peak, followed the high ridges down to the upper end of Spread
- Creek and came down Hellroaring Creek.
-
- I could track where the band of sheep was by the cloud of dust they
- kicked up. The first time I saw the dust, I thought it was smoke
- from a fire -- but it just didn't look quite right. At least this
- time I didn't report it as a fire, like my splices on Roderick --
- I talked to Jim on Northwest Peak first and he told me what it was.
-
- I kept an eye on the band, marking their new location daily on the
- firefinder map. They traveled a few miles every day as the
- sheepherder moved them to fresh grass. Finally I could hear sheep
- bells on the slope below me, down Hellroaring Creek. That evening
- I hiked down to see them.
-
- The sheepherder was Basque -- came over directly from Spain on a
- contract to herd sheep. He didn't speak much English and I sure
- didn't speak Spanish, but we were able to talk some. He told me he
- had been on the trail for a month and a half and hadn't seen anyone
- in that time. He said he was out of tobacco. Up in the mountains,
- if you smoked, you rolled your own -- Prince Albert pipe tobacco
- and Wheat Straw papers. I finally made a deal with him. I had an
- extra one pound can of Prince Albert up at the lookout which I
- traded for a leg of lamb. The tobacco should last him the rest of
- the summer and I got a real treat -- fresh meat.
-
- Fire Season is Over
-
- The "Fall Rains" came, the same way they came on Roderick. Cold,
- wet, steady rain that brought an end to the fire season. It had
- been a long summer. I was glad to get off of the mountain, see
- people -- and eat someone else's cooking.
-
- Summer was over, time to get back to school.
-
-
- Post Script
-
-
- After three years in the Army, I chose to study Electrical
- Engineering rather than pursue a career in Forestry. Still, while
- going to college, I would spend two more summers working for the
- Forest Service on a lookout -- most people thought I was a Forestry
- major, not an EE.
-
- From my experience, working for the Forest Service, I have observed
- that two things have worked together to destroy much of the US
- National Forest as I knew it. One was the invention of the chain
- saw -- that is just man's continued search for a more efficient
- tool. The other was the change in policy of the US Forest Service
- to favor "clear cutting" over "selective cutting" for the
- harvesting of timber.
-
- When I worked in the Yaak, the chain saw had not been invented --
- at least I had never heard of one. Trees were cut by hand, two men
- on a cross cut saw. This required a large crew and cutting was done
- at a slow pace. One man could not "tear down" a stand of trees in
- a day by himself.
-
- With selective logging, a US Forest Service employee first
- "cruised" the stand of trees selecting the trees to be harvested
- before any timber was cut on Federal land. Only mature trees were
- cut, young trees were left to grow. Each tree to be cut was scaled
- for the number of eight-foot saw logs it would produce and recorded
- in a tally book showing the type of tree, location and yield of
- logs. It was marked by chopping a blaze low on the trunk and then
- the blaze was imprinted by hammering it with the other end of a
- special cruising axe. This marked the blaze with the letters "US".
- As I recall, we wrote a number on the blaze with an indelible
- pencil and recorded the number in our tally book.
-
- But not all of the mature trees were taken. Some trees were left to
- reseed the area.
-
- As logging trucks came out of the forest, they swung through the
- Ranger Station, and there, each log was measured, recorded and
- stamped on the end.
-
- After all of the logging in the stand was finished, the area was
- checked and each stump inspected for the blaze and checked against
- the tally book records. There is no question that such a procedure
- used a lot of Forest Service manpower.
-
- Selective cutting required the logger to work around the small
- trees and those to be left standing. Clear cutting is much more
- efficient for the loggers -- they cut everything. They are the ones
- who benefit from clear cutting -- quicker, less manpower.
-
- However, I have gone back to stands that I cruised. After ten years
- it was difficult to tell that the area had ever been logged. The
- immature trees had grown rapidly, benefiting from the additional
- sunlight. The "brood" trees that we left standing had scattered
- seedling all around them. The trees and brush that had been
- intentionally left had prevented heavy erosion. Harvested this way,
- the forest could be used for the "multiple use" that Congress had
- intended.
-
- I have also returned to "clear cut" areas ten years after the cut.
- Here, erosion had ruined the trout streams, the rubbish that had
- been left in great piles and huge windrows had still not degraded.
- Yes, there was brush, but I have seen a burn recover faster. The
- tree cover needed for large wild life had not come back. There were
- no trout. The area was no longer attractive, even for a camping
- site. I was sickened. This is NOT multiple use.
-
- From my observations I am convinced that the long range benefits of
- "selective cutting" far exceed the short term gains of "clear
- cutting". If we are to hold the National Forests in trust for
- future generations, we must stop the current policy and practice of
- the US Forest Service of "clear cutting", and return to "selective
- cutting".
-
-
- Bob Graham
-