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- BEAR STORIES AND LOOKOUT TALES
-
- PART I
-
- I am the author of these short shories and they are freely distributable as
- "etext". I hope you enjoy them.
-
- Robert B. Graham
- 6125-A Summer St.
- Honolulu, Hawaii 96821
- (808) 395-9360
- Prodigy - WTKW87A
-
- Internet - bgraham@ uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.edu
-
- ===================================================================
-
-
- BEAR STORIES and LOOKOUT TALES
-
-
- by Bob Graham
-
-
- Copyright 1989 Rev. - 1
-
- Printed by Graham-Cracker Press
-
- Honolulu, Hawaii
-
-
- Dedication
-
-
- This is written for my grand-children. It is not written for my
- sons -- they have heard all of these stories a thousand times, and
- I'm sure they are bored with them.
-
-
- Acknowledgement
-
-
- I would like to thank my wife Carol for her support and for her
- tireless effort to improve my poor grammar. And to Karen Shishido
- for finding bad punctuation, missing words and wrong spelling that
- even a "spell checker" can't find. Any remaining literary "goofs"
- are mine and mine alone, and are made in spite of all their help.
-
-
- To stand on a mountain top and watch the sun rise,
-
- makes you feel alive and part of a larger whole.
-
- To sit on a mountain top and watch the sun set,
-
- makes you feel at peace with yourself and your God.
-
-
- Prologue
-
-
- As a young boy, I tramped all around the foothills north of Boise
- and wandered through the thick stands of cottonwood south along the
- Boise river. I tracked beaver and found their lodges among the
- cottonwood and hunted jack rabbits, ground squirrels and coyotes in
- the foothills.
-
- I spent as much time as I could fishing, hiking and camping. The
- hills, mountains and forests were where I loved to be.
-
- My dream was to become a Forest Ranger, so the chance to work for
- the Forest Service in Montana was what I was waiting for.
-
-
- The Yaak
-
-
- The Yaak River country was still quite remote and primitive in 1945
- when, at the age of 16, I first saw it. The Yaak is located in the
- northwest corner of Montana. Troy, the closest town, was a
- metropolis of 200 residents. It had one hotel, one cafe, one barber
- shop and a jail -- a typical small western town.
-
- US Highway 2 connected the town to the rest of the world. The
- highway was a paved two-lane road south to Libby, but from Troy to
- the Idaho border it was only a single-track dirt road, with
- turnouts for passing. The bridge, on US 2 crossing the Kootenai
- River about two miles north of Troy, was a wide, modern concrete
- four-lane bridge. It was totally out of context with the rest of
- the road. It heralded the great expansion that promised to come.
-
- The road up the Yaak turned off of US 2 about ten miles north of
- Troy. Sylvanite Ranger Station lay another fourteen miles north.
- The Yaak River Road was much worse than US 2. It too was a narrow,
- single-track road -- but it had grass growing in the center. The
- road was impassable after a heavy rain and the Yaak was snowed in
- during the winter.
-
- Being remote as it was, the surrounding country was home to a great
- deal of wild life. You could expect to see a deer every mile you
- traveled up the road, and a bear every trip. It was here that I
- became fascinated with bears.
-
-
- The Meat House
-
-
- My first encounter with bears was at Sylvanite Ranger Station. The
- fire lookouts didn't go up until sometime in early July, after the
- "spring rains" stopped and the forest got dry. There is still a lot
- of work to do before we went up on the lookout -- trails to
- maintain, phone lines to put back up after the winter snows and
- many other chores. There were about a dozen of us working out of
- Sylvanite. We slept in the bunk house and ate in the mess hall
- there.
-
- Two nights in a row a bear raided our meat house. Let me explain.
- There was no electricity north of Troy -- so, no refrigerators, no
- freezers. The meat was dressed out and hung in a small screened-in
- shed close to the mess hall. The screens were to keep flies out --
- not bears. So to protect our meat supply Dave, the Fire Dispatcher,
- staked out the meat house the next night.
-
- About 10:30, shortly after we had all turned in, we were awakened
- by a shot. We jumped into our clothes, grabbed flashlights, poured
- out of the bunk house and ran over to where Dave was standing
- looking out into the dark night. He told us that he had just
- wounded the bear, a good-sized black bear. Now Dave had a crippled
- leg and couldn't track the bear very fast, so the bunch of us took
- out --after a wounded bear, in the middle of the night, armed with
- nothing more than flashlights and the belt knives we always
- carried.
-
- We were lucky. We didn't find that bear that night. Dave found him
- the next morning just across the river from the station -- dead.
-
- Gene Grush, the Acting District Ranger, had Dave skin the bear out
- and we all ate bear meat for the next couple of weeks. We figured
- that Gene was trying to show how economically he could run the
- District.
-
- I really can't recommend spring bear. It is tough and stringy --
- much better late in the summer after Mr. Bear has fattened up from
- his winter sleep.
-
-
- Foot-in-mouth Disease
-
-
- (The names have been changed to not embarrass anyone -- except me,
- that is)
-
-
- We all had to be trained for the jobs we had been hired to do.
- Smoke chaser and lookout school was at Libby and lasted a week.
- During that week we stayed at the Libby Ranger Station and had our
- meals in their mess hall. We were taught how to read a map, locate
- a fire on a fire finder, how to fight a fire and the other things
- we would need to know to be able to do our jobs.
-
- One noon we all were eating lunch in the mess hall when the man
- sitting next to me asked if I was the one from Boise, Idaho. I
- admitted I was. He said "I used to live there, lived at 505
- Franklin". Thought to myself about it a bit and then said "Hey, I
- know where that house is, Marjorie Beeson lives there now. I've
- dated her and boy is she a hot number". So, I spent the next five
- minutes regaling everyone at the table with tales about Marjorie
- Beeson. When I got done I asked him if by any chance he knew them.
- He said "Yes, I'm Kurt Beeson. Marjorie's my daughter".
-
- I couldn't crawl into a crack in the floor even if I tried, so I
- spent the rest of the meal, as well as the rest of the week,
- telling him all of the good things I knew about Marjorie. I've
- tried to be more careful about opening my BIG mouth ever since --
- even when far from home.
-
-
- The Cross Cut Saw
-
-
- Maintaining forest trails was one of the jobs that had to be done.
- It entailed cutting out trees that had toppled across the trail by
- the winter snow, digging out any land slides and putting in log
- drains where washouts had occurred. We had to make the trail so a
- pack string of mules could travel over it. The tools we carried for
- this job were shovels, double bitted axes, a combination grub-hoe
- and axe called a Pulaski and an eight-foot, two-man cross cut saw.
- The saw is an ungainly thing to carry. You balance it on your
- shoulder and it bounces like a spring as you walk. Also, the handle
- behind you catches in brush and tree limbs.
-
- We had finished for the day and were hiking back to the truck we
- had left at the trail head. I was feeling good and was way out
- ahead of everyone else, glad to be done with the day's work. I
- rounded a sharp bend in the trail and there, about twenty feet in
- front of me was a bear. I slid to a stop. He stopped and reared up
- on his hind legs. I was so startled that I dropped the saw. It
- landed on a rock in the trail and rang like a loud bell -- the bear
- dropped on all fours, spun around and took off down that trail like
- a shot. I sat down in the trail and waited for my heart to stop
- pounding so hard. From then on I stayed a little closer to the rest
- of the crew.
-
-
- Mountain Phone Lines
-
-
- All communication in the Yaak was by telephone. This was before the
- Forest Service started using radios.
-
- A mountain telephone line was a single strand of heavy galvanized
- wire, hung from trees (why work so hard to put up poles when the
- trees are already there). The wire was run through a wrap-around
- insulator so it could slide and pull slack from the spans on both
- sides in case a limb fell across it. In addition, the insulators
- were attached about thirty feet up a tree in a special way so they
- could pull free if a tree fell across the line. The whole idea is
- to prevent the line from breaking -- it might be on the ground,
- under fallen trees, but as long as it didn't break you could still
- yell above the static.
-
- The phone line was strictly a party line. Everyone that was on the
- line could hear everyone else. To call someone, you first picked up
- the phone, listening to see if anyone else was on the line, and
- then "cranked" the ring code for the person you wanted -- like two
- short rings and a long ring. This meant turn the crank, located on
- the right side of the phone box, quickly around once for a "short"
- and three times around for a "long". Everyone on the line had their
- own ring code. Now, the crank on the side turned a magneto that
- generated a good high voltage. A high voltage was need to be able
- to ring the bells on all of the phones on the line.
-
- I enjoyed climbing. It was sort of special being up a tree, above
- everyone else, being able to see all around. So I offered to climb
- any time we worked phone lines. There isn't a great deal to it,
- just don't fall. You strap linesman's spurs onto your feet. They
- are "L" shaped steel braces that go under each boot and then are
- strapped around the boot. The long part of the brace fits on the
- inside of your leg and straps around your calf just below the knee.
- The spur itself is mounted in the brace about where your ankle is.
- To climb you first put your safety belt around the tree, then jam
- one spur into the tree, lean back and with your arms straight, take
- a step up and jam the other spur in. Fairly simple, just don't hug
- the tree and get your knees close to the trunk. If you do, the
- spurs will kick out and you will come zipping down the tree trunk.
-
- The first day that I got to climb, we were working across the road
- from Sylvanite. Everyone was watching to see if I could do it.
- After awhile I got familiar with the routine and was getting a bit
- cocky about being up so high. I was holding onto the phone line,
- when suddenly one heck of an electric shock went through my arms,
- down my body, through my legs and out the spurs that were dug into
- the live tree. I let go of the wire and wrapped my arms around the
- tree, which made the spurs slip out. I'd have fallen except for my
- death grip around the tree.
-
- Down below, all the guys were laughing. Seems one of them went over
- to the station, waited for the right time and then started cranking
- the ringer as hard and fast as he could.
-
-
- Cub up a Tree
-
-
- One day the job for four of us was to repair the phone line up the
- South Fork of the Yaak to Albert Brightenstein's farm. Albert, our
- Alternate Ranger, was having a lot of trouble with his phone.
-
- My job was climbing. The rest of the crew were clearing brush. From
- my vantage point thirty feet up, I saw a bear cub in a nearby
- clearing. I came down and talked to the rest of the guys. We
- decided it would be fun to catch the cub. Quietly we circled around
- to the clearing, slowly closing in -- then jumped in to try and
- grab the cub. He let out a squall and ran up a tree.
-
- Now, what to do? One guy went back to the truck and got a couple of
- axes. Then two guys started to chop the tree down and two of us got
- on each side of where it was to fall. We were all primed and ready
- to rush in and wrestle with an angry, scared cub. Finally the tree
- came down. We leaped in -- no bear cub. To this day I have no idea
- where he could have gone. Could we have chopped down the wrong
- tree?
-
-
- Roderick Mountain Lookout
-
-
- I went up on Roderick Mountain Lookout in early July. The lookout
- was one room, ten feet by ten feet, set on a ten-foot high log
- tower. In the center of the room was the Osborn firefinder -- the
- reason for the lookout. Fastened to the sides around it were two
- bunks that would fold up against the wall. There was also a wood
- burning stove, two three-foot high cupboards to hold two month's
- supply of food and a small folding table -- all packed in this one
- room. The walls were wood three feet up, and then windows the next
- four feet. Heavy wooden shutters, hinged at the top, protected the
- windows during the winter. When the lookout was in use, they were
- raised up on two-by-two braces to act as an awning, shading the
- windows. There was a three-foot wide catwalk completely around,
- with a trap door that led to a ladder for getting up and down the
- tower. The cabin and tower were fastened to the mountain with four
- half-inch steel guy wires attached to each top corner. The guy wire
- went down the hill at a sharp angle, where the other end was
- attached to a big steel eye bolt, sunk deep in the rock of the
- mountain. The size of these guy wires indicated the strength of the
- winds I could expect. This was to be my home for the next two
- months.
-
- Three trails led up to Roderick. One came up Burnt Creek. This was
- the trail used by the pack string that brought up two month's worth
- of supplies in late June. It was by far the best of the three
- trails, but it was fourteen miles from Sylvanite by this route. The
- phone line to Sylvanite, my only link with the outside world,
- followed this trail. Another was a poor, un-maintained seven mile
- trail that came right up over the ridge from Sylvanite and around
- the south side of Skookum Mountain. The third trail was short, just
- four miles. It went right down the south side of Roderick Mountain,
- going down at a forty-five degree angle, no switch backs, just
- loose dirt and rocks, to the road along Seventeenmile Creek. This
- was a "killer" trail, but a fast one.
-
- Roderick Mountain was remote. I was all alone and would only see
- two people during the next two months.
-
-
- Firefinder
-
-
- In the center of the lookout was the Osborn firefinder. It was a
- round metal table about thirty inches across. It stood on an
- adjustable metal pedestal about four feet high. Glued to the round
- table top was a map, a half inch to the mile, with Roderick
- Mountain dead center. Around the edge of the table was a movable
- metal ring that rotated in a track around the table. This ring had
- a sight on one side and a set of cross hairs on the opposite. There
- were a couple of brass rods sticking up out of the ring, one on
- each side, to use for handles to help rotate it. Stretched across
- the ring, from the sight to the cross hairs, was a steel tape
- measured in inches. On the outside of the ring, the table was
- marked in degrees.
-
- To locate something, you would grab a handle in each hand, look
- through the front sight, and move around the table, sliding the
- ring with you. When you had the object lined up with the cross
- hairs, the steel tape on the map would lie right along the object
- on the map and the degrees on the edge of the table would be the
- compass heading to it.
-
- Streams and drainages stand out in high relief from up on top of a
- mountain. To pinpoint the location of an object, you count the
- streams or drainages between you and it. Then, look on the map, and
- count the same number there. Now, how far up the slope is it? This
- took a little practice, but soon you got the hang of it and could
- pinpoint anything on the map.
-
-
- Food for the Summer
-
-
- Before the lookouts went up, a pack string of mules stocked the
- lookout with supplies to last two months. All food was canned,
- except for a bushel bag of potatoes and a half case of eggs. There
- was canned "Spam" in five pound cans originally packed for the
- Army. There was also canned corned beef, canned stew, canned peas,
- string beans, corn, beets and sauerkraut. The staples that were in
- the pack were sugar, flour, cornmeal, salt and yeast. The only
- fresh things were about a dozen lemons. This mix led to some
- interesting meals.
-
-
- Just What is a Balanced Meal?
-
-
- My mother was a home economics teacher. She drilled into us boys
- that we should always eat balanced meals. I was to get a very
- graphic lesson on this subject the first week I was up on the
- lookout, and had to cook for myself (if I wanted to have anything
- to eat).
-
- That first week, I was new at having to cook everything. So, for
- breakfast I just made pancakes -- simple and easy. For lunch I made
- biscuits and had them with jam, again simple and easy. Dinner, I
- had "Spam" or corned beef, with some left-over biscuits.
-
- After about a week of this fare, I woke up one morning feeling
- very, v-e-r-y s-l-u-g-g-i-s-h. Late that afternoon I got sick to
- my stomach. Something seemed to tell me that my diet wasn't quite
- right -- I don't know why I felt that. So I opened a can of string
- beans, heated them up and proceeded to eat the whole can. Then went
- to bed. The next morning I felt alive again. From then on I
- followed mom's advice -- I balanced my meals by always including
- vegetables.
-
-
- Lookout Routine
-
-
- I got up at the crack of dawn, not that I wanted to, I didn't have
- any choice -- when the sun came up it came blazing right into my
- room. That's what happens when you live in a glass house on top of
- the world.
-
- The first thing that had to be done was to check the area for
- "smokes". Checking was done out on the catwalk so that the window
- glass would not obscure a faint smoke. First, select a small
- section of terrain and "sweep" it with your eyes. This was done by
- starting close to the lookout, checking the closest drainage very
- carefully, moving out to the next drainage and then the next until
- everything had been checked, for about twenty miles out. Then
- "sweep" the next section in the same way, working all the way
- around. This took about fifteen minutes. When I had finished I was
- sure there were no "smokes" that could be seen from Roderick within
- twenty miles.
-
- All lookouts measured and reported any rainfall daily. Any amount
- of rain would reduce the fire danger. My rain gauge was down the
- hill a ways, so I would lower the stairs, run down the hill to the
- rain gauge and measure any rain that had fallen during the night.
-
- Now I could ring Sylvanite, make my morning report to let them know
- I was still alive, that there were no "smokes" in my area and how
- much rain, if any, fell during the night.
-
- Next it was breakfast time. I first had to build a fire in the
- stove, so I could cook pancakes or fry eggs -- whatever I wanted to
- fix. Of course I had to wash my own dishes.
-
- After breakfast it was time for the daily water haul. There was no
- running water on the lookout. It all had to be hauled up the hill
- from a spring, in a five gallon bag, on my back. This daily chore
- took about an hour. Sometimes I would wash clothes at the spring.
- I would never take a bath there -- that water was like ice.
-
- Checking the area was done every hour and took about fifteen
- minutes. I got to know every little dimple in the terrain that
- surrounded the lookout, until I had it committed to memory.
-
- The next break was lunch -- usually leftover pancakes or biscuits.
- The pancakes, I would spread with jam, roll them up and eat them.
- Try it sometime, it's pretty good!
-
- Roderick mountain was shaped so I could not look down into the
- Seventeenmile Creek drainage. To overcome this, the Forest Service
- had built a cupola on a point named Pleasant Mountain, which
- overlooked Seventeenmile Creek. The cupola was about five feet by
- five feet, built like a miniature lookout. It had an Osborn
- firefinder inside and a phone line had been run down to it.
- Pleasant Mountain was about a mile southwest of the lookout and
- about five hundred feet lower. About two or three o'clock every
- afternoon I would make the trip down to check the Seventeenmile
- Creek area.
-
- Cooking, and just heating the lookout, took a lot of wood. There
- was a pretty good supply already cut when I got there. All I had to
- do was split it up for the stove. The unwritten rule in the
- mountains is to always replace what you use. So, one chore that had
- to be done from time to time was cut wood. Some of the dead snags
- around the lookout had fallen. If only one person was going to use
- an eight foot crosscut saw you took the other handle off. That way
- it wouldn't bounce from side to side so much. First I had to pick
- a snag and start bucking wood. It took practice, but soon you could
- push the saw, as well as pull it. It was just one more chore that
- had to be done.
-
- Around four in the afternoon was the time to start making supper.
- After supper, around six in the evening, the dispatcher would
- connect all of the lines onto the main-line and we would get a
- chance to talk to all of the other lookouts. As it got dark, we
- could see a Coleman lantern burning on top of every mountain that
- had a lookout -- Grizzly Peak, Baldy, Garver, Northwest Peak and
- Henry Mountain. As it got later the conversations died down, and
- one by one the lights on the mountain tops went out as the Colemans
- were extinguished.
-
-
- Clothes for a Lookout
-
-
- What does one wear on a lookout? I don't know what everyone else
- wore, but everything I wore on the lookout, I had to wash by hand
- down at the spring. This was a chore that I could really have done
- without. After a week or so, I finally had my wardrobe down to a
- "bare" minimum.
-
- I needed a hat to shade my eyes, so my old green broad brimmed hat
- worked just fine. Shoes, I needed boots when I was away from the
- lookout, so my "loggers" with double aught caulks (quarter inch
- steel spikes) worked fine. Inside I wore moccasins. Up there, I
- always carried a .32 caliber revolver. So I just made a breach
- cloth out of an old pair of worn out jeans -- tucked it up and over
- my gun belt in front and back. Comfortable, easy to put on, easy to
- wash -- and there was no one around to say anything about it. If I
- got chilly, I just put on a shirt or jacket.
-
- The only problem I had with this outfit was when I went down to the
- spring for water. At the spring, there were a lot of mosquitoes!
-
-
- Lemon Meringue Pie
-
-
- I love lemon meringue pie -- with the lemon filling an inch thick
- and the meringue an inch and a half high. Yummmm!!
-
- Now the more I thought about it, the more my mouth watered. There
- was still that dozen lemons that came up with the food supply, and
- I didn't want them to go to waste. So, I pulled out the "Lookout
- Cook Book" (each lookout had one). The recipes were specially made
- for the high altitude on the mountain. I looked and looked, but
- couldn't find any lemon meringue pie.
-
- I called Dave down at Sylvanite and asked him to connect me to Mrs.
- Grush, the Acting Ranger's wife. I explained to her what I was
- trying to do. She asked me if I had a "Lookout Cook Book". I
- assured her I did, but said I couldn't find lemon meringue pie
- anywhere in it. She asked me to wait a minute -- came back on the
- line and told me to turn to page 12. I did -- looked at it -- and
- said to her "All I can find there is lemon 'mer-ig-new' pie". She
- couldn't suppress her laughter, but finally explained that was how
- it was pronounced -- I could hear Dave, who had stayed on the line,
- just roaring. That was the big joke for a long time.
-
- Well, I made my "mer-ig-new" pie. The crust burned -- the lemon
- filling candied -- the meringue wouldn't whip. So, I just chipped
- it out of the pan and ate it like candy.
-
-
- Lightning Storm on the Lookout
-
-
- A lookout is a safe, but spooky, place to be during a lightning
- storm. On the very peak of the roof is mounted a two-foot
- lightning rod. It is made of a half-inch round copper bar,
- sharpened at the tip. Four lengths of quarter-inch cooper wire
- connect to the lightning rod, one coming down each edge of the roof
- and then on down each corner of the lookout. They were connected to
- a square of the same material running along the outside of the top
- of the lookout, just above the windows. Another square of copper
- wire ran along the outside at floor level. This framed the entire
- lookout in a quarter-inch copper wire box. The quarter-inch copper
- continued down each leg of the tower and connected to another
- square on the ground. This square was then connected to heavy
- galvanized wire in four places, the same wire as used for the phone
- line. These four separate lines ran down the mountain, one on each
- side, to the nearest spring. There, they were connected to a coil
- of wire buried in the spring to form a good electrical ground.
- Inside the lookout, all large metal objects were connected to this
- grounding box -- the firefinder in the center of the room, both
- metal bunks, and the stove.
-
- My first storm came about a week after I had been on Roderick. It
- was after dark and I could see the lightning in the storm as it
- rolled in from the south. As it got closer I started to hear the
- thunder caused by each strike. One way of locating where a
- lightning bolt hits ground is to count the seconds from when you
- see the strike until you hear the thunder. Sound travels about a
- mile in four seconds, so just divide by four -- that is the
- distance in miles. If you get a bearing on the firefinder where the
- strike hit ground and you "count" the distance, all you have to do
- is measure the distance out on the map.
-
- The storm moved in around me and got more intense. Inside the
- lookout I began to see an eerie glow shifting around the top of the
- stove. The corners of my bunk glowed -- the heads of the nails in
- the ceiling glowed. I was petrified. Was I imagining it? Suddenly -
- - a blinding flash, followed almost at the same instant by a
- deafening crash -- a bolt of lightning hit the other hump of the
- mountain, less than a quarter of a mile away. The glow was gone
- from the stove, the bunk, and the nail heads. Saint Elmo's Fire!
-
- It was pitch black and I couldn't see where the different drainages
- were, except when a bolt of lightning illuminated the mountains for
- a split second. There, down the hill, were a whole series of fires.
- This was my job, to locate and report fires -- I turned on the
- hooded battery lamp that hung over the Osborn firefinder, and took
- a sight on the first fire. All of the fires appeared to be down in
- the Burnt Creek drainage. I wrote the azimuth down, and estimated
- where on the slope of the drainage it was. I went on to the next,
- and the next, until I had them all down on paper. I put the head
- set and speaker phone on, plugged it in and rang the code for
- Sylvanite. Dave, the Fire Dispatcher answered -- I told him that I
- had a bunch of fires to report and started reading them off to him,
- checking each with the firefinder as I did so.
-
- Suddenly the sky was illuminated with a flash as lightning struck.
- I swung the firefinder around to mark the azimuth where that bolt
- came down -- I would check it later for a fire. I came back to the
- fires that I was reporting -- they weren't there. I told Dave that
- they must have burnt out, but I would keep an eye on them. I
- disconnected the phone, and waited. Soon, the fires flared up
- again, so I called back in. I was reporting them over again, when
- lightning hit the mountain one more time. All of my fires went out.
- I told Dave that I was sure about them, but he insisted I check
- them for awhile before reporting them for a third time. All night
- long I watched as the "fires" burned brighter and brighter, and
- then disappeared as lightning struck the mountain.
-
- In the light of morning, I checked each of my "fires". Each one was
- where a splice had been made in the phone line down the mountain --
- Saint Elmo's fire again! I rang up Dave and sheepishly told him
- what I had figured out.
-
- Pretty soon I got a call from one of the other lookout asking if I
- had any "splices" to report. Never did I live that down.
-
-
- July 17, 1945
-
-
- Dave called me and said that Gene Grush wanted to talk to me. Gene
- told me the government was lighting a big fire southeast of us
- early the next morning and they had asked the lookouts to watch and
- report what they saw. I set my alarm for 1:00 AM and went to bed
- early. At 1:00 I got up, built a fire and sat there watching until
- the sun came up -- nothing. I called Gene and reported that I
- hadn't seen anything
-
- It would be sometime later that I realized what I had been asked to
- watch for -- the first explosion of an atomic bomb that was set off
- way down in New Mexico.
-
-
- Huckleberry Patch
-
-
- There was no running water. It all had to be hauled up from a
- spring about three-quarters of a mile down the hill, in a five
- gallon bag, on my back. This was a daily chore, done early in the
- morning. The top of Roderick Mountain has two humps about half a
- mile apart. The lookout was on the higher one. The trail to the
- spring led down through the barren saddle between the humps, around
- the side of the smaller hump and then down a steep slope on switch
- backs. From the top of the steep slope, it was a quarter of a mile
- to the spring, which was located at the base of the slope on a
- beautiful timbered bench.
-
- The steep slope faced east, catching the morning sun -- and had the
- best huckleberry patch in the whole Yaak River drainage. Every
- morning on my way to the spring I watched this huckleberry patch as
- the berries ripened.
-
- Down at the spring the water was clear, cold and had a good flow.
- The water from the spring was channeled into a horse trough
- fashioned from a hollowed log. Since I didn't have horses to worry
- about, I used the horse trough to wash my clothes in -- kept a
- washboard and a bar of laundry soap at the spring just for that.
-
- One morning, I came over the top of the hump and looked down the
- slope at the huckleberry patch. There, right in the middle of MY
- huckleberry patch was a big black bear eating MY huckleberries!
-
- What to do? I pried loose a large bolder from the edge of the trail
- and got it rolling down the slope toward the bear. He heard the
- noise, looked up and saw something coming through the bushes at
- him. The rock hit another rock a few feet above him and bounced out
- of the bushes up into the air. The bear turned around and tore off
- down the hill as fast as he could go, rolling end over end down the
- slope and then out through the timber.
-
- I sat down on the trail and laughed and laughed. I went on down,
- got my water and washed my clothes, feeling that I had gotten the
- best of that bear.
-
- The next morning I checked the huckleberry patch -- no bear. I
- thought to myself that I must have scared him clear out of the
- country for good. When I got to the spring -- there were all of my
- clean clothes, shredded, my washboard torn apart and even a bite
- taken out of my bar of soap. Mr. Bear had the last word!
-
-
- Biscuits
-
-
- One of the staples of lookout fare was biscuits and jam -- this was
- our snack. Each of us made biscuits our own way. I made rolled
- biscuits, rolling them out with a rolling pin, the way my
- grandmother taught me. The key, she told me, was to make them as
- moist as possible, but not quite to where they stuck to the bowl
- they were mixed in. And Grandma made the best biscuits in the
- world.
-
- Over on Grizzly Peak Lookout, just north of Roderick Mountain, was
- "Slim" Condon. "Slim" was from Des Moines, Iowa. We were the only
- two people on the Burnt Creek phone line, so we stayed on the line
- a good bit of the day, just for company.
-
- One hot, hazy afternoon there was a lightning storm going on way
- down south by Libby, but nothing happening in our area. "Slim" was
- baking biscuits. Now "Slim" made drop biscuits. He mixed them up,
- but instead of rolling them out, just dropped spoonfuls of wet
- dough on the biscuit pan. To make them this way, they had to be
- extra wet -- almost runny.
-
- We were talking, when there was a sharp crackle on the phone line.
- "Slim" swore and said something about getting off the line, then
- the line went dead.
-
- It wasn't until late that evening that I could get "Slim" to answer
- the phone. At last he answered. After a lot of talking I finally
- got him to tell what had happened.
-
- Seems he had finished dropping his wet biscuits on the pan, had the
- oven door open and was just in the process of putting the pan in
- the oven. At that same instant lightning must have hit the line
- down south, miles and miles away, traveled up to Sylvanite, jumped
- over to our line, went through "Slim's" headset, through his arms,
- through the biscuit pan, to ground through his stove. That was the
- crackle I had heard. The muscles in "Slim's" arms involuntarily
- contracted from the electricity, jerking the pan of wet, sticky
- dough right up into his face.
-
- "Slim" maintained he could have gotten killed! I'm afraid I wasn't
- very sympathetic, I just rolled and rolled on my bed laughing.
-
-
- Wolves on the Mountain
-
-
- There were wolves in the Yaak. In the evening, before it got dark,
- one wolf would start howling. Pretty soon there would be a chorus
- all around the mountain and down into every valley and draw.
-
- One morning I had made my water haul and had just finished climbing
- back up the switchbacks through the huckleberry patch. I stopped at
- the top and leaned over to ease the weight of the forty pounds of
- water on my back. Turning around, I looked out over the timbered
- bench below me.
-
- For some reason I had the urge to howl. Just to see what would
- happen, I let out the best wolf howl I could muster out over the
- bench below. Suddenly there was an answering howl from down on the
- flat -- then another from over to the side -- and still another.
- Soon the whole bench seemed alive with wolves. Boy, was I spooked.
-
- I turned and started hiking over the trail on the top between the
- two humps as fast as I could walk. In this saddle between the two
- humps were a number of dead snags, twisted and gnarled by the
- incessant wind. As I hurried through this stretch, a sudden gust
- of wind swooped down, whistling and howling through the dead
- branches of the snag behind me. I thought I had aroused the fury
- of the wolves and they were right on top of me. Dropping my
- precious water bag from my back, I tore off down the trail like a
- scared rabbit.
-
- Fifty feet further I turned and looked back -- no wolves. I sat
- down in the trail and laughed at myself -- boy, had I let my mind
- panic me. Sheepishly I went back, picked up the spilled waterbag
- and trekked back down to the spring to refill it. Needless to say,
- I didn't howl at any more wolves from then on.
-