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- From: rpd-info@netcom.com (Cindy Tittle Moore)
- Subject: rec.pets.dogs: Health Care Issues FAQ
- Summary: Basic health-care issues every dog owner should know about,
- including preventive care routines.
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- Date: 17 Apr 2004 11:23:36 GMT
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-
- =======
- There are many FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
- listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
- is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
- to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
- the Web at http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/lists/faq-list.html, or
- via email by sending your message to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu with
- send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
- in the body of the message.
-
- This article is Copyright 1997 by the Author(s) listed below.
- It may be freely distributed on the Internet in its entirety without
- alteration provided that this copyright notice is not removed.
- It may NOT reside at another website (use links, please) other
- than the URL listed above without the permission of the Author(s).
- This article may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in other
- documents without he Author(s)'s permission and is provided "as is"
- without express or implied warranty.
- ==========
-
-
- Health Care Issues
-
- Author
-
- Cindy Tittle Moore, cindy@k9web.com
- Copyright 1995-1997.
-
- Table of Contents
-
- * Prologue
- * In General
- * Administering Medicine
- * Allergies
- * Aging
- * Bathing
- * Dental Care
- * Disease Transmission (Zoonoses)
- * Ears
- * Food
- * Incontinence
- * Neutering
- * Overheating
- * Puberty
- * Skin Problems
- * Temperature
- * Trimming Nails
- * Vaccinations
- * Vomiting
- * Worms
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Prologue
-
- Considerable information herein is summarized from Carlson & Giffin,
- authors of a home veterinarian handbook. I would like to thank them
- for their informative and accessible information. Any mistakes made in
- the summaries are my responsibility and not Carlson & Giffin's. I
- believe that I am within copyright laws by using summarizations (no
- direct quoting, except for the toxic plants section), my own
- organization of the material, and precise acknowledgement where
- relevant.
-
- This article is presented for informative purposes only, and should
- NOT be used to "replace" normal veterinary care. Rather, the
- information included is intended to allow you
- * to be aware of potential problems,
- * to be able to prevent some of these problems, and
- * to know when to take your dog in and what to tell your vet.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- In General
-
- Your dog cannot tell you when it feels sick. You need to be familiar
- with its normal behavior -- any sudden change may be a signal that
- something is wrong. Behavior includes physical and social behavior;
- changes in either can signal trouble.
-
- If you familiarize yourself with basic dog care issues, symptoms to
- look for, and a few emergency care treatments, you can go a long way
- toward keeping your dog healthy. Never attempt to replace vet care
- with your own (unless, of course, you are a vet); rather, try to be
- knowledgeable enough to be able to give your vet intelligent
- information about your dog's condition.
-
- You should know some emergency care for your dog. This is beyond the
- scope of the FAQ, as you really need pictures or demonstrations. Check
- a home-vet book and ask your vet about them. Some of these include:
- * mouth-to-mouth resuscitation
- * CPR
- * temporary bandages and splints
- * inducing vomiting
- * a good antiseptic for minor cuts, scrapes, etc.; povidone iodine
- and similar antiseptic cleansers are recommended
-
- There are a number of good books that cover basic care for dogs. These
- include:
-
- Miller, Harry. The Common Sense Book of Puppy and Dog Care. Bantam
- Books, Third Edition (revised) (1987). ISBN: 0-553-27789-8
- (paperback).
-
- Includes a section on practical home care, listing major symptoms
- you should be alert for, and listing general criteria by which you
- can determine a dog's overall healthiness. Discusses major diseases
- and problems, gives sketches on what may be wrong given certain
- symptoms.
-
- Taylor, David. You and Your Dog. Alfred A. Knopf, New York (1991).
- ISBN:0-394-72983-8 (trade paperback).
-
- Taylor gives flow-chart questions to consider when deciding if
- symptoms are serious or not. Not as comprehensive as other care
- books, but a good start in understanding what you need to look for
- when your dog seems off. Includes illustrations of many procedures,
- such as teeth cleaning and nail trimming. Informative discussion of
- reproductive system, grooming, and dog anatomy.
-
- An *excellent* resource that details all aspects of health issues for
- dogs, and one that every conscientious dog owner should have is:
-
- Carlson, Delbert G., DVM, and James M. Giffin, MD. Dog Owners's Home
- Veterinary Handbook. Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing Company,
- 866 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10022 USA (1980). ISBN: 0-87605-764-4
- (hardcover).
-
- This comprehensive book is a complete guide to health care of dogs.
- It lets you know when you can treat the dog, or when you need to
- take it to the vet post-haste. It lists symptoms so that you may
- inform your vet of relevant information about its condition. The
- arrangement of the material facilitates rapid reference.
- Illustration of key procedures (pilling, taking pulse/temperature,
- etc). Lists poisonous substances, including houseplants. A must
- have home veterinarian handbood.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Administering Medicine
-
- There are many devices to aid in administering medicine. In
- particular, pill plungers are effective and available by mail order. A
- syringe with no needle is good for liquids. Ask your vet for some
- other ideas.
-
- Pills
-
- (summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
-
- Open your dog's mouth and drop the pill down as far back as you can,
- on top of and in the center of the tongue. Close the dogs mouth and
- hold it shut while stroking the throat until your dog swallows. If it
- licks its nose, chances are that it swallowed the pill. Giving it a
- treat afterwards helps insure that the pill is swallowed.
-
- You can try hiding the pills in a treat, say cheese or peanut butter.
- Pill plungers work well, also.
-
- Liquids
-
- (summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
-
- Tilt the chin up at 45 degrees, and place the neck of the bottle into
- the cheek pouch, between the molar teeth and the cheek. Seal the lips
- around it with your fingers and pour in the liquid. Large amounts can
- be given this way. Hold the muzzle firmly while the dog swallows.
- Bottles, syringes and eyedroppers can be used. Your vet can help you
- out here.
-
- Eyedrops
-
- If you must administer eyedrops to your dog and it resists, try the
- following trick: stand behind your dog and hold the eye open to
- administer the drops. You don't appear as dominating this way.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Allergies
-
- Dogs can get allergies just like people do. However, symptoms involve
- skin problems rather than respiratory distress. Check the skin
- problems section over for possible clues toward allergies. A common
- culprit is fleas, but dogs can be allergic to many other things,
- including some types of food commonly found in dog food.
-
- A good way to have your dog's allergies tested is with an ELISA test.
- Your vet should know about this test and be able to have it done at
- your request.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Aging
-
- Although aging is irreversible, some of the infirmities of an older
- dog may in fact be due to disease and therefore correctable or
- preventable. It is important for any dog over six years of age to be
- examined thoroughly every six months.
-
- In particular, you want regular blood work done on your dog. For
- example if kidney function declines, you want to know so that you can
- switch to kidney-sensitive diets.
-
- A recently published book is
-
- Hampton, John K. Jr., PhD, and Suzanne Hampton, PhD. Senior Years:
- Understanding your Dog's Aging Process. Howell Book House. 1993. ISBN:
- 0-87605-734-2.
-
- Behavioral changes
-
- (summarized from Carlson & Giffin) Older dogs are more complacent,
- less energetic and curious. They may be forgetful, and sleep more.
- Crankiness and irritability are common. They are less tolerant of
- changes in the environment; in particular you may wish to have someone
- come by and check the dog at home rather than kennel it when you leave
- on vacation. Older dogs in hospitals and kennels go off their feed,
- become overanxious, and bark frequently.
-
- Physical changes
-
- (summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
-
- Loss of muscular tone and lessened activity may result in the neck and
- body becoming more bulky, but the legs more thin. Resistance to cold
- is impaired and older dogs should always have a warm and draft-free
- bed. Arthritic dogs may need a padded surface on which to sleep.
-
- Moderate exercise helps keep the joints supple, and should be
- encouraged, but not beyond its ability to do so. Also, some
- conditions, such as heart trouble, may necessitate restraining it from
- exercise. Toe nails will require more frequent trimming. Stiffening
- joints may make it more difficult for the dog to keep its genital and
- anal areas clean. The skin may dry out and require some care to keep
- it clean and less dry.
-
- Loss of hearing and sight may occur. Tooth and gum disease is fairly
- common. Kidney failure and disease is more common (look for increased
- thirst and other symptoms of kidney failure). Incontinence (mostly in
- older spayed females, treatable with estrogen) may appear.
-
- An older dog needs less calories; the food must be of high quality so
- that it still gets the nutrition it needs with fewer calories.
-
- Geriatric Vestibular Disorder
-
- Common in older dogs, apparently something happens neurologically in
- the connection between the brain and the inner ear (sometimes
- infection, sometimes inflammation). Very little is actually known
- about it, but it does tend to subside after about a day or so.
- Unfortunately, the dog is generally unable to eat or drink, as it is
- completely disoriented.
-
- Dogs rarely show any enduring effects from such an episode other than
- sometimes their head leaning or tilting to one side.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Bathing
-
- You may need to bathe your dog on occasion. The main thing to remember
- is that dogs' skin is more delicate than humans. It is much more prone
- to drying out when you wash it. Human based shampoos are formulated to
- remove all the oils. You need to get one formulated for dogs that will
- remove dirt but not the essential oils for the coat. Dogs that are
- frequently bathed may require some supplements (such as Linatone or
- vegetable oil) to keep their skin and coat healthy.
-
- A condition called impetigo may result from not rinsing all the soap
- out. Other general problems, such as fleas that prefer dried-out skin,
- may occur.
-
- Procedure
-
- (summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
-
- First, groom your pet to rid its coat of any mats or knots. Bathing
- will not remove these and in fact will worsen them. Plug its ears with
- cotton to prevent water in the ears. To prevent soap-burn in the eye,
- smear the eye area with a little vaseline, or administer a drop of
- mineral oil in each eye.
-
- Wet your dog thoroughly. Using a nozzle and spray is much easier.
- Using a shampoo formulated for dogs (the pH balance of human shampoos
- is wrong), lather and rinse its head carefully, keeping soap and water
- out of its eyes and ears. Lather and rinse the rest of its body.
- Relather and rinse any other areas that had stubborn stains.
-
- Rinse your dog *thoroughly*, and then rinse it again, even beyond when
- you think you've got all the soap out. Try adding Alpha-Keri bath oil
- (one teaspoonful per quart water) to the final rinse for coat luster.
- Do NOT use vinegar, lemon, or bleach rinses; they are acidic and will
- damage the dog's coat and skin.
-
- Dry your dog gently with towels, and keep it indoors until it is
- completely dry to avoid chilling.
-
- Dry shampoos
-
- Dogs with very oily coats may benefit from "dry-cleaning" in between
- baths. Calcium carbonate, talcum/baby powder, Fuller's earth, and
- cornstarch are all effective. They can be used frequently without fear
- of removing essential oils or damaging the coat and skin.
-
- Apply the powder, then brush out, against the lay of the hair, from
- the bottom up (toes to head) with a soft bristle brush. Then brush the
- whole dog normally to get all the powder out.
-
- Tar
-
- Do not use petroleum solvents, which are extremely harmful, to remove
- the tar from your pet's skin. Instead, trim away excess coat
- containing tar where possible. Soak remaining tarry parts in vegetable
- oil overnight and then give your dog a complete bath.
-
- Sap
-
- Sap (especially pine tree sap) often must simply be trimmed off.
- However, some people have had success with Murphy's Oil Soap.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Dental Care
-
- Owners that practice good dental care with their dog will reap many
- benefits in the long run.
-
- Typical problems
-
- The most common cause of bad breath is excessive calculus and plaque
- deposits on the teeth. Bacteria live and feed in the plaque and
- produce gum and bone infection, pain, and bad breath.
-
- Calculus is a crusty collection of food particles, minerals, and
- bacteria that forms at the teeth-gum borders.
-
- Plaque formation eventually leads to gum disease, mouth odors,
- receding gums and bone destruction and infection. The rate at which
- plaque forms in your dog's mouth is mainly due to genetic
- predisposition, but can be slowed by daily oral hygiene using
- antiplaque liquid or gel and/or pastes and regular professional
- cleaning and polishing.
-
- Pyorrhea (inflamed and infected gums) of the teeth is often the cause
- of kidney infections and endocarditis in older dogs. The pressure on
- the gums and infection of the teeth is quite painful to your dog.
-
- Preventive steps
-
- An antiplaque liquid or gel (Chlorhexidine) can be applied to the gum
- tissue with a cotton ball or swab. As an alternative, a soft bristle
- toothbrush or finger brush can be used with a non-foaming enzymatic
- toothpaste manufactured for dogs.
-
- Treatments should be done daily or at least every other day, depending
- on the current problems. Only a few areas are particularly susceptible
- to plaque and calculus formation. The areas of greatest concern are
- the canines and upper back molars (side facing cheeks).
-
- Chlorhexidine penetrates gum tissue and prevents bacterial growth,
- plaque build-up, gingivitis, and bad breath. In addition to the
- canines and molars, look at the front incisor teeth and brush away any
- accumulation of hair and food at the gum line if present.
-
- To remove existing calculus deposits, your dog will require short
- general anesthesia and your dog's teeth will be cleaned with dental
- instruments along with an ultra-sonic machine that vibrates the
- calculus off the surface of the teeth. Calculus from under the gum
- tissue is carefully removed using a hand scaler. Finally, the teeth
- are polished to reduce purchase for new deposits. This can often be
- done when the dog is under anasthetic for other reasons, such as
- neutering.
-
- Cavities, etc
-
- Dogs do not commonly get cavities. When they do occur, it is more
- often at the root of the tooth rather than at the crown. Cavities can
- lead to root abscesses.
-
- Abscessed roots often cause a swelling just below the animal's eye.
- Generally, tooth extractions are needed at this point.
-
- Disease Transmission (Zoonoses)
-
- Zoonotic diseases are those that can be transmitted from animals to
- people.
-
- (summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
-
- Any worm infestation has the potential of causing problems in humans.
- Standard hygienic precautions will avoid most of these. Things to
- watch for: babies getting infected when playing near or on
- contaminated soil or feces, working in the garden without gloves.
-
- Rabies, toxoplasmosis, brucellosis, and tetanus (lockjaw) can all
- affect both dogs and humans. Again, simple hygienic precautions will
- avoid most problems.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Ears
-
- Your dog's ears should be clean, slighly pink-gray and have no odor.
- Problems with the ear to watch for include:
- * Red, irritated skin
- * Dirt or wax build up
- * "Coffee grounds" (rare)
- * Discharge
- * Foul odor
- * Frequent head shaking, or scratching/pawing at ear(s).
-
- The most common problems with ears are ear infections (yeast or
- bacterial). Ear mites are actaully pretty uncommon in dogs. In any
- case, any of the above symptoms are grounds for having the vet check
- your dog's ears out.
-
- Ear mites are treated with medication. Sometimes a reapplication is
- needed. Some people have gotten rid of light infestations by cleaning
- the ear out and then coating lightly with baby oil or mineral oil.
-
- Ear infections are a little harder to treat, usually requiring daily
- ear drops for a week or so, weekly drops for some time after that.
- Some dogs prone to ear infections need to have ear drops on a regular
- basis. Drop-eared dogs are a bit more prone to ear infections, as
- prick ears normally allow more air circulation.
-
- An easy home remedy to *prevent* ear infections (will not cure an
- existing one) is:
-
- 2 Tablespoons Boric Acid
- 4 oz Rubbing Alcohol
- 1 Tablespoon Glycerine
-
- Shake well. Put 1 small eyedropperfull in each ear. Rub it around
- first, and then let the dog shake. Do this once a week and you
- shouldn't see any ear infections. It works by raising the pH level
- slightly inside the ear, making it less hospitable to bacteria.
-
- To clean out an ear that's simply dirty (some buildup of dirt and wax
- is normal, but excessive ear wax may indicate that something else is
- wrong), take a cotton ball, dip in hydrogen peroxide if you like
- (squeeze excess out) and wipe the dog's ear out. The canal is rather
- deep, so you will not injure your dog so long as you only use your
- finger to probe the canal. Clean all around the little crevices as
- best as you can. Use another cotton ball for the other ear. Be sure to
- dry the ears out thoroughly.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Food
-
- There are many dog food formulations out there, ranging from
- inexpensive grocery-brands to expensive premium food. You should find
- out what suits your dog best: while many dogs have done just fine on
- dog chow, others do much better with other foods such as Nature's
- Recipe, Iams, Pro-Plan, etc.
-
- The theory behind the more expensive foods is that they are more
- digestible and contain less "bulk" and "fill." Hence, your dog will
- eat less in volume (and thus the extra cost of the food is somewhat
- offset) and excrete small and firm stools. You may need to experiment
- to find out how your dog does on different brands. Dogs vary in their
- individual reactions.
-
- Food should be fed once or twice a day. Put the food down and take it
- up again after ten to twenty minutes regardless of whether your dog
- has finished eating it. This discourages "picky eating" and lets you
- be certain of exactly how much food your dog is eating. Frequently, a
- problem is first indicated when your dog's feeding goes off, so
- scheduled feeding like this (rather than free feeding) will tip you
- off to potential problems right away.
-
- The larger or younger your dog is, the better multiple daily feedings
- are; simply divide up each day's portion into individual feedings.
- Fresh water should always be available, and changed at least once a
- day.
-
- Vegetables
-
- Many dogs appreciate vegetables. In particular if your dog is fond of
- munching on the grass, you can often alleviate this by feeding
- vegetables to your dog. Stick with fresh, raw foods: carrots, broccoli
- and cauliflower stems, apple cores, etc are popular. Stay away from
- potatoes and onions.
-
- People food
-
- Feeding your dog "people food," i.e., table scraps and such is a poor
- idea. First, you may encourage your dog to make a pest of itself when
- you are eating. Second, feeding a dog table scraps is likely to result
- in an overweight dog. Third, if your dog develops the habit of gulping
- down any food it can get, it may seriously poison or distress itself
- someday.
-
- Eating problems: gulping, etc.
-
- For a dog that gulps the food down so rapidly that gas is a result,
- you can slow down the rate of eating by putting large, clean rocks
- (3-4" diameter) in the dish along with the food.
-
- Home Cooking Food
-
- Cooking food for one's own dog is a trend that is increasingly
- popular. It is controversial, with some adherents claiming every kind
- of benefit possible and detractors pointing out problems. Whatever
- position one takes on this concept, it's clear that for the dog owner
- who wishes to proceed with, thorough research must be done. Tracy
- Landauer has kindly supplied a good overview. Please note that
- improper attention to the nutritional requirements of your dog will
- make him quite sick. This is not something to undertake lightly or on
- a whim:
-
- For anyone considering switching over to a raw diet, do your homework
- first; don't just jump in blindly.
-
- All of the books below should be available at either Amazon.com or
- Direct Book Services. Most folks start with the Pitcairn book. The
- first Billinghurst book spawned the unfortunate acronym, BARF (Bones
- And Raw Foods). Kymythy's book is also very easy to comprehend and use
- - she even includes charts and blank grocery lists. Goldstein's book
- is an excellent read.
- * Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats, by Dr. Richard
- Pitcairn, DVM
- * The Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, by Wendy Volhard
- * Reigning Cats and Dogs, by Pat McKay
- * Give Your Dog a Bone, by Ian Billinghurst (Australian vet)
- * Grow Your Pups on Bones, Billinghurst
- * The Natural Remedybook for Cats and Dogs, by Diane Stein
- * The Complete Herbal Handbook for Dogs and Cats, by Juliette de
- Baircli Levy
- * The Ultimate Diet, by Kymythy Schultze
- * The Nature of Animal Healing, by Martin Goldstein, DVM
-
- Wellpet is an email listserv dedicated to natural pet care and diets;
- warning, it's a high-traffic list, but for starters, their web site
- has a lot of the basics and great FAQs. Their web site would be the
- best place to get basic info about feeding raw and why. It's an
- inexact science, be warned. Subscription info there too. See
- http://www.listservice.net/wellpet/welcome.htm.
-
- There's also a discussion group on OneList called rawdiets, and
- another email list called K9 Cuisine.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Incontinence
-
- The most common occurrence of incontinence is in the older spayed
- bitch. Most often this is due to a hormonal imbalance and as such is
- easily treated in one of two drugs. The traditional way is with doses
- of DES (estrogen). Typically, the dosage is varied until the
- incontinence stops, and often the dosage can be later reduced
- altogether. Another method of treatment is with phenylpropanolamine
- (PPA, brand name Dexatrim) which tightens all the muscles.
-
- DES replaces the hormones, restoring the hormonal balance. PPA works
- independently of the hormones and as such, may introduce new problems.
- Both drugs are known to cause problems and side effects, although
- typically, the level of dosage that DES is administered at for
- incontinence will not cause problems. At high dosages, DES is thought
- to be linked with breast cancer and obesity. Since PPA tightens all
- muscles in the body, it can potentially cause serious side effects,
- especially with the heart. There is speculation that PPA is often
- prescribed at dosages too high for dogs. In humans, PPA is not advised
- when thyroid levels are low; this might also be a problem with dogs.
-
- Which drug is safer for your particular spayed bitch depends on the
- particular dog and her particular veterinary history. What's best for
- one dog might be bad for another, depending on what other veterinary
- conditions or susceptibilities she has.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Neutering
-
- If you are not planning to breed your pet or put it to stud service,
- or your dog's breeding days are over, you will want to neuter it.
- There are a number of health benefits associated with neutering, for
- either sex.
-
- Technically, the general term for either sex is neutering; bitches are
- spayed and dogs are castrated. However, general usage is that bitches
- are spayed or neutered and dogs are neutered.
-
- Neutering is *not* a solution to behavioral problems; training is.
- However with some dogs it can alleviate some factors that make it more
- difficult to train. But you cannot expect to neuter your dog and have
- it turn into an angel without any work.
-
- Tip: let your dog eliminate before taking it in and again after
- getting it back. Many dogs, especially crate-trained dogs, will not
- eliminate in the vet's kennels during their stay.
-
- Castration
-
- Dogs are castrated. A general anesthetic is administered, the
- testicles are removed (oriectomy) and several stitches are used to
- close it up. The scrotum will shrink and soon disappear after
- castration. You will want to neuter the dog around six months of age,
- although dogs can be neutered at any time after this. For example stud
- dogs are typically neutered after they are too old to breed, and they
- suffer no ill effects. Some clinics may use a local anesthetic
- instead.
-
- Spaying
-
- Bitches are spayed; this is an ovario-hysterectomy (uterus and ovaries
- are removed). She must be put under general anesthesia. A large patch
- of fur will be shaved (to prevent later irritation of the incision)
- off the lower abdomen. You may have to take your bitch back in to
- remove the stitches. From a health point of view, the earlier the
- bitch is spayed, the better. Ideally, she should be spayed before her
- first heat, this reduces the risk of reproductive and related cancer
- (e.g., breast cancer) later in life considerably; not to mention
- guaranteeing no unwanted puppies. The most dramatic rise in risk of
- cancer occurs after the second heat or two years of age, whichever
- comes first before spaying. After that, while the risk is high, it
- does not rise further.
-
- Post-op recovery
-
- You will need to watch to make sure your dog does not try to pull out
- its stitches, and consult your vet if it does. You might, in
- persistent cases, need to get an Elizabethan collar to prevent the
- animal from reaching the stitches. Puffiness, redness, or oozing
- around the stitches should be also reported to the vet. Some stitches
- "dissolve" on their own; others require a return to the vet for
- removal.
-
- For further information on how neutering may affect your dog, see the
- section on neutering in Assorted Topics.
-
- Cost
-
- The cost can vary widely, depending on where you get it done. There
- are many pet-adoption places that will offer low-cost or even free
- neutering services, sometimes as a condition of adoption. Local animal
- clinics will often offer low-cost neutering. Be aware that spaying
- will always cost more than castrating at any given place since spaying
- is a more complex operation. Vets almost always charge more than
- clinics, partly because of overhead, but also because they often keep
- the animal overnight for observation and will do free followup on any
- later complications. Larger animals will cost more than smaller ones.
-
- Pet Assistance has a program to help you locate low-cost neutering.
- There may be an 800 number, but the San Diego number is 619-697-7387.
- They can refer you to a veterinarian in your area who will perform
- low-cost spaying or neutering. Other low cost/coupon assistance:
- 1-800-321-PETS; Pet Savers Foundation at 1-800-248-SPAY. Most vets
- honor these coupons.
-
- Effect on behavior
-
- There is an extensive discussion on the effect neutering has on a
- dog's behavior in the Assorted Topics chapter of the FAQ. In summary,
- no one really knows, and for every example presented, a
- counter-example can be made.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Overheating
-
- Dogs are not as good as people in shedding excess heat. You should
- take general care during hot and summer weather that your dog does not
- get too hot. Make sure shade and water is available and that there is
- some fresh air. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR DOG IN A CAR on a hot day! Cars heat
- up much more quickly than you think and that one inch or so of open
- window will not help. If you park in the shade, the sun may move more
- quickly than you think. A water-filled pump sprayer can help keep your
- dog cool. But your best bet is to prevent overheating.
-
- Heatstroke is indicated by some or more of the following symptoms:
- * rapid or heavy breathing
- * bright red tongue
- * thick saliva
- * vomiting
- * bloody diarrhea
- * unsteadiness
- * hot, dry nose
- * legs, ears hot to touch
- * extreme: glassy-eyed, grey lips
-
- Wet the dog down gradually using cool, not cold water. Get it out of
- direct sunlight. Give it a little cool water to drink at a time. Cold
- compresses to the belly and groin helps. Get the dog to the vet. A dog
- that has had heatstroke before can be prone to getting it again.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Puberty
-
- Bitches
-
- In general, a bitch can start her first estrus, or "heat" between the
- ages of 6 months to 18 months. If you know when her dam first went
- into heat, that will give you a good indication of what to expect with
- your puppy. It is often felt that the larger breeds take longer to
- enter heat than the smaller ones felt, but familial patterns, if
- known, are a more reliable indicator.
-
- The first signs of estrus include: a small amount of clear discharge,
- a modest swelling of the vulva (the external genital fold), and
- increased licking of the area. Some bitches have a shortened attention
- span. This period can last from 4 to 14 days. Other dogs will show an
- interest in licking the area (as opposed to just smelling it) as well.
-
- The next stage includes bloody discharge, which can be anything from a
- few spots of blood to leaving a trail behind as they go, and increased
- swelling of the vulva. The nipples will enlargen somewhat. This period
- can last anywhere from 4-14 days as well. At the end of this stage,
- the vulva is at maximal size.
-
- At this point the bitch is fertile and ready to be bred, and will
- accept male dogs. This stage lasts for several days. After the first
- heat cycle, the bitch's vulva and nipples will shrink down, but not to
- the puppy size that they were before.
-
- However, there is much individual variation. Some bitches can show
- little or no sign of being in season throughout much of their estrus
- cycle. Some will always accept male dogs (even when they are not yet
- fertile) and others never accept them.
-
- Spaying is generally done when the bitch is not in season. The
- increased vascularity (higher blood flow) in the organs makes the
- operation more risky. In addition, such an operation would alter the
- balance of hormones in the dog's body rather abruptly, a potential
- source of problems. However, it can be done, and often is if the bitch
- winds up unintentionally pregnant, for example.
-
- Dogs
-
- Male puppies are born with undescended testicles, just like human
- males. Somewhere between 4 months to a year, the testicles will
- descend, although you should be able to feel the testicles from about
- 7 weeks onward. At about this time the levels of testosterone are
- peaking. An intact male dog between 10 and 12 months of age has about
- five times the testosterone level he will have in his final adult
- intensity, if he is not neutered!
-
- Male puppies will urinate like female puppies (by squatting) until
- about the time their testicles descend, and then will generally start
- to urinate standing up. Initial confusion is normal at this stage: be
- prepared for the puppy to raise the wrong leg, try to raise both legs,
- try to walk at the same time, or even try to use people as a "post"!
- You can encourage him to restrict his marking by praising him when he
- marks an acceptable item and scolding him when he is not. Discourage
- him from marking when you are on a walk; get him to mark around your
- yard as much as possible. (Marking, as opposed to urinating, is when
- only a small amount of urine is deposited.) Neutering early may or may
- not affect this behavior.
-
- If a dog has only one testicle, he is monorchid. If he has one
- undescended testicle, he is cryptorchid (unilateral); two undescended
- and he is cryptorchid (bilateral). Popular but incorrect usage calls
- the dog with one undescended testicle monorchid and two undescended
- cryptorchid. Granted, you may not be able to tell whether a dog is
- monorchid or has unlateral cryporchidsm without exploratory surgery.
- Undescended testicles often become cancerous and should be removed.
- Furthermore, such dogs should not be bred since the condition is
- hereditary.
-
- Further Reading
-
- From a MedLine search:
-
- TI: Questions and answers on the effects of surgically neutering dogs
- and cats.
- AU: Johnston-SD
- SO: J-Am-Vet-Med-Assoc. 1991 Apr 1; 198(7): 1206-14
-
- TI: Effects of neutering and spaying on the behavior of dogs and cats:
- questions and answers about practical concerns.
- AU: Hart-BL
- SO: J-Am-Vet-Med-Assoc. 1991 Apr 1; 198(7): 1204-5
-
- TI: Gonadectomy in immature dogs: effects on skeletal, physical, and
- behavioral development.
- AU: Salmeri-KR; Bloomberg-MS; Scruggs-SL; Shille-V
- SO: J-Am-Vet-Med-Assoc. 1991 Apr 1; 198(7): 1193-203
-
- TI: Implications of early neutering in the dog and cat.
- AU: Stubbs-WP; Bloomberg-MS
- SO: Semin-Vet-Med-Surg-Small-Anim. 1995 Feb; 10(1): 8-12
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Skin Problems
-
- Remember that a dog's skin is composed of only one layer, so it is
- much more delicate than a human's skin, which has three layers. A
- dog's skin depends on the hair and oils on it to keep it in good
- condition.
-
- Some preventive steps:
- * Keep your dog properly fed to prevent dry skin
- * When bathing your dog, use dog-formulated shampoo to prevent dry
- skin
- * Groom your dog regularly; some problems are caused by matted hair
- providing breeding grounds for a variety of skin diseases, regular
- grooming also helps keep you aware of any incipient problems
- * Keep your dog flea and parasite free
- * Check your dog regularly for foxtails, burrs, and other sharp
- objects it may pick up when outside
-
- Relieving dry skin
-
- Some things to try:
- * Shampoos with lanolin
- * A good soak in cool water
- * Non-drying shampoo: eg, Hy-Lyt EFA is non-allergenic
- * Medicated shampoos may help with allergy-induced problems
- * Avon's Skin-So-Soft(tm) added to the rinse water
-
- Allergies followed by staph infections
-
- Once a dog has an allergic reaction, it is quite common to have a
- secondary staph infection. Many vets aren't familiar with this. The
- staph infection may stay around long after the allergy is gone.
-
- A vet that specializes in dermatology can be of great help in dealing
- with skin problems. See if your vet can refer you to such a person.
-
- Some studies on primrose and fish oil in helping relieve or cure
- secondary infections from allergies are documented in DM, March 1992.
- More information may also be obtained from writing to the RVC
- Dermatology Dept, Royal College St, London. NW1.
-
- Summary table
-
- It is beyond the scope of this FAQ to examine any of these skin
- problems in great detail, but here is a summary table of possible
- problems. Summarized from the summary tables in Carlson & Giffin,
- pages 67-69.
-
- Itchy Skin Disorders
-
- Name Symptoms
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Scabies | *intense* itching, small red spots, typical crusty ear tips
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Walking | puppies 2-12wks, dry flakes move from head to neck to back,
- Dandruff | mild itchiness
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Fleas | itching/scratching on back, tail, hindquarters
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Lice | on poorly kept/matted coat dogs, uncommon, may have bald spots
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Ticks | irritation at site of bite, often beneath ear flaps or thin skin
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Damp Hay | severe itch from worm larvae, contacted from damp marsh hay
- Itch | (regional)
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Inhalation | severe itch, face rubbing, licking paws, seasonal
- Allergy | also regional
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Flea Allergy| scratching continues after fleas killed, pimple rash
- Dermatitis |
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Contact | itching/irritation at site of contact
- Dermatitis |
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Allergic | repeated or continuous contact (eg flea collar),
- Contact Derm. rash may spread
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Lick sores | "boredom sores", licking starts at wrists/ankles
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
- Hormone-related Hair Loss or Poor Hair Growth
-
- Name Symptoms
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Thyroid | loss of hair
- Deficiency | (see Canine Ailments)
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Cortisone | hair loss in symmetrical pattern, esp. trunk, skin is thin
- Excess | may also be from steroid treatments
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Estrogen | greasy hair, hair loss in flanks/abdomen, wax in ears, loss of
- excess | hair around genitals, enlargened nipples, dry skin, brittle hair
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Estrogen | scanty hair growth, smooth soft skin
- deficiency |
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Acanthosis | hair loss in armpit folds, black thick greasy rancid skin
- Nigrans |
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Seborrhea | "dandruff", hair/skin oily, yellow brown scales on skin,
- | resembles ringworm
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
- Other Hair Loss, etc
-
- Name Symptoms
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Collie Nose | sunburn on lightly pigmented nose, loss of hair next to nose
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Ringworm | scaly/crusty/red circular patches .5-2in diameter w/hair loss
- | in center and red margin at edge (not from a worm)
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Demodectic | hair loss around eyelids, mouth, front leg, young dogs
- mange #1 |
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Demodectic | progression of #1, patches enlarge & coalesce, pyoderma
- mange #2 | complications, affects all ages
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Calluses, | gray/hairless/wrinkled skin over elbow, pressure points
- elbow sores |
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
- With Pus Drainage (Pyoderma)
-
- Name Symptoms
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Puppy | impetigo: pus filled blisters, crusty hairless skin
- Dermatitis | on abdomen, groin; acne: purple-red bumps on chin, lower lip
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Hair pore | pimple-like bumps on back, sometimes draining sinus,
- infection | hair loss
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Skin Wrinkle| inflamed skin, foul odor in lip fold, facial fold,
- Infection | vulvar fold, tail fold
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Hot Spots | in heavy coated dogs, painful inflamed patches of skin with
- | a wet, pus covered surface from which hair is lost
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Cellulitis | painful hot inflamed skin (wound infections, foreign bodies,
- | breaks in skin)
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Abscesses | pockets of pus beneath the skin, swells, comes to a head & drains
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Puppy | under 4mos, sudden painful swelling of lips, eyelids,
- Strangles | ears and face, draining sores, crusts, and sinus tracts
- | (prompt vet attention required, do not pop "acne")
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
- Lumps or Bumps on/beneath Skin
-
- (all lumps should be checked by vet even if not apparently painful)
- Name Symptoms
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Papillomas, | anywhere, including mouth, not painful
- Warts | can look like chewing gum stuck to skin
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Hematomas | (bruises) - esp. on ears, from trauma
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Tender Knots| esp. at site of shot or vaccination, painful
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Cysts | smooth lumps beneath skin, slow growth, possible cheesy
- | discharge, possible infection, otherwise not painful
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- Possibly | rapid growth, hard & fixed to surrounding tissue,
- cancerous | any lump from a bone, starts to bleed, a mole that spreads or
- lump | ulcerates, open sores that do not heal (only way to tell for
- | sure is a biopsy)
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
- Diagnosing
-
- Skin problems are not easy to diagnose and cure, but there is a lot of
- research going on. Something that can help is to keep a diary for the
- dog. Every day, record what the dog ate, what the weather was like,
- whether it is itching or not, and anything else that might be relevant
- (visitors, for instance, when it is bathed, and so forth). It's
- sometimes hard to recall all the variables that might be affecting the
- dog, but if you keep a diary, sometimes patterns become very clear.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Temperature
-
- Normal temperature range for a dog is 100 to 103 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Because dogs regulate their temperature less efficiently than people
- do, there is more variation in "normal" temperature. Your dog's
- temperature will be higher just after exercise, on a hot day, while
- snuggled under a blanket, etc.
-
- Dogs' temperatures are normally taken rectally. Try a digital read-out
- rectal thermometer, available at any drug store. Put a little Vaseline
- or KY Jelly on the tip, insert gently into the rectum (not too far),
- and hold for a minute or so. The digital model has a beeper that goes
- off when "done." The thermometer is easy to clean with soap & water or
- wipe with alcohol.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Trimming Nails
-
- Most dogs need to have nails trimmed at some point. While the vet will
- often clip them for you, many dogs need their nails trimmed more often
- than that to prevent injuries and other problems associated with
- overgrown nails.
-
- A tip: Look for illustrations of dog nails. Most dog care books
- will have one. Cardinal (a dog products vendor) provides a small
- poster that illustrates not only normal nail clipping but also how
- to gradually work back the length of nails that have grown too long
- and is quite informative.
-
- Clipping
-
- Use nail clippers available at pet stores. Look for the guillotine
- type (don't use the human variety, this will crush and injure your
- dog's nail) and get blade replacements as the sharper the blade is the
- easier this procedure is. There is another kind that looks like
- scissors with hooked tips that are also good, and may be easier to
- handle (however, the blades cannot be replaced on this type).
-
- Before cutting the nails, examine them carefully. If the nails are are
- white, the difference between the nail and the pink quick is easy to
- see (use good lighting). If the nails are dark, it will be much harder
- to tell where the quick is, in which case you must take care.
-
- If your dog resists having its nails trimmed, try trimming them while
- you sit on a couch with the dog on its back in your lap. By putting
- the dog on its back, you make the nails accessible and put the dog in
- a submissive position where they are less apt to fight. As with many
- things, this is easiest if you start while your dog is still a pup.
-
- If the cutter is sharp, the nails won't crack if you cut at right
- angles to the nail. that is, hold it so that the blades are on the top
- and bottom of the nail, not to the sides of the nail.
-
- Do not cut below the quick. It will be painful to your dog and bleed
- everywhere. When in doubt, trim less of the nail. It will just mean
- trimming more often. Clip the portion above the quick for each nail
- and don't forget the dewclaws. Keep a styptic pencil on hand to
- staunch any blood flow. Flour or cornstarch will help in a pinch.
-
- Dewclaws are a "fifth" toe, positioned as a "thumb" to the rest of the
- nails and they do not touch the ground. Not all dogs have them, and
- they may be found on the front legs only or on all four legs. Many
- dogs have their dewclaws removed when they are puppies to prevent
- infection resulting from easily injured dewclaws. Some adult dogs that
- regularly tear their dewclaws should have them removed. While they
- take longer to heal than three-day old puppies that have had theirs
- removed do, the pain of periodically tearing them and going in to the
- vet to have them bandaged back up makes the surgery worth while.
-
- Grinding
-
- The nail grinder avoids the potential problems of cutting the quick,
- nails cracking, and sharp edges afterwards. The nails can also be
- thinned, allowing the quick to recede, resulting in shorter nails and
- a tighter paw.
-
- RC Steele and other mail-order companies sell them for about $45. One
- model is the Oster Pet Nail Groomer, Model 129, with two speeds. Some
- dogs may be spooked by the noise. It may help to watch someone who
- knows how to use it first.
-
- Filing
-
- You can use a wood rasp and file your dog's nails down. Also, if you
- clip them, using a plain file afterwards helps smooth the edges down
- and keep them neat. You can use "people files" or purchase files
- shaped for this purpose.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Vaccinations
-
- Regularly scheduled shots
-
- An indispensable part of keeping your dog healthy is to keep its
- vaccinations up-to-date. A table, lifted from Carlson & Giffin, shows
- all the major vaccinations (at minimum) that a dog in the US should
- have. Conditions in your area may necessitate additional shots; ask
- your vet about them as they may not always be routinely included in
- normal shot programs. DHLPP is a combination shot: Distemper, (Canine)
- Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, (Canine) Parainfluenza, (Canine) Parvovirus.
- Age Vaccine Recommended
- --------------------------------------------------------------
- 5-8 wks | Distemper - measles - CPI
- ------------------+-------------------------------------------
- 14-16 wks | DHLPP, Rabies
- ------------------+-------------------------------------------
- 12 mos & annually | DHLPP
- ------------------+-------------------------------------------
- 12 mos & | Rabies
- 3 yr intervals |
- --------------------------------------------------------------
-
- Vaccination failure
-
- Vaccinations may fail under the following conditions:
- * vaccinations are improperly administered (should always be by or
- supervised by a vet)
- * the dog has some innate inability to respond
- * the dog has already been exposed to the disease in question
- * the puppy is too young for the vaccination to "take"
-
- Other vaccines
-
- Not an exhaustive list: Other vaccines and preventives should also be
- given such as heartworm, Lyme disease, etc, when needed. Heartworm
- prevention should begin around 5 months, but then it depends on where
- you live. Those living in warmer, damper areas with higher
- concentration of heartworm may want to start earlier. Lyme disease
- vaccine instructions recommend giving it around 12 weeks; Bordatella
- vaccines (for Kennel cough) around 6 months or earlier depending on
- risk.
-
- Vaccine overload?
-
- Be sure your dog is safe and vaccinated against everything you think
- the dog may be exposed to, however, don't overload its system! You can
- do more harm than good by vaccinating your dog for everything all at
- once than if you stagger the vaccinations and let the individual
- immunities build up gradually.
-
- For some interesting material on new suggested vaccination protocols,
- see: http://www.cvmbs.colostate.edu/vth/savp2.html.
-
- Up-to-date on shots?
-
- Do you know what it means when your vet tells you your dog has ALL its
- shots? Chances are, your dog isn't. Stay informed and read up in some
- of the dog literature about what types of vaccinations your dog should
- have. Then make sure your vet has administered vaccines for the
- appropriate things -- it's up to YOU to make sure your dog has *all*
- its shots, not your vet.
-
- For an interesting article on vaccinations, see the May 1992 issue of
- Dog World. Another thoughtful article by Christine Wilford, DVM is in
- Gazette, January 1994.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Vomiting
-
- One of the most common and non-specific symptoms that a dog can have.
- You must look at how and what it is vomiting. If your dog vomits once
- or twice and then seems its normal self, it is probably not serious.
-
- Non-serious causes
-
- (summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
-
- Most commonly: overeating. Animals that gulp their food and
- immediately exercise (esp. puppies) are likely to vomit. This is not
- serious. Feeding in smaller portions more often helps eliminate this
- problem. In particular, if the vomit looks like a solid tube of
- partially or non digested food, your dog ate too fast.
-
- Note that eating grass or other indigestible material is also a common
- cause of vomiting.
-
- Types of vomiting
-
- (summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
-
- Repeated vomiting:
- Its last meal is first vomited. Then a clear, frothy liquid.
- This suggests a stomach irritant. Grass, spoiled food, other
- indigestibles, and certain infectious illnesses (such as
- gastroenteritis) all cause irritation of the stomach lining.
-
- Sporadic vomiting:
- The dog vomits off and on, but not continuously. No
- relationship to meals, poor appetite. Haggard appearance and
- listlessness may indicate an internal organ disorder, a chronic
- illness, a heavy worm infestation, or diabetes. A thorough
- checkup is called for.
-
- Vomiting blood:
- Fresh blood indicates a break in the mucus lining somewhere
- between the mouth and the upper small bowel. Common causes are
- foreign bodies, tumors and ulcers. Material which looks like
- coffee grounds is old, partly digested blood -- the problem is
- somewhere in the stomach or duodenum. Vomiting blood is always
- serious and requires a trip to the vet.
-
- Fecal vomiting:
- If the vomit is foul and smells like feces, there is an
- obstruction somewhere in the intestinal tract. Blunt or
- penetrating abdominal trauma is another cause. The dog will
- become rapidly dehydrated with this type of vomiting and
- requires vet attention.
-
- Projectile vomiting:
- The vomit is forcefully expelled, sometimes for a distance of
- several feet. It is indicative of complete blockage in the
- upper gastrointestinal tract. Foreign bodies, hairballs,
- duodenal ulcers, tumors and strictures are possible causes.
- Intracranial pressure can also cause projectile vomiting,
- causes can be brain tumor, encephalitis, and blood clots. Take
- the dog to the vet.
-
- Vomiting foreign objects:
- Includes bone splinters, rubber balls, (pieces of) toys, sticks
- and stones. Sometimes worms. You may want to have the vet check
- your pet for any other foreign objects, although not all of
- these will show up readily on x-ray scans.
-
- Emotional or Stress vomiting:
- Sometimes excited or upset dogs vomit. Remove the dog from the
- source of distress. If it is something it will encounter often,
- you will have to train the dog to remain calm around the
- source.
-
- Motion sickness:
- Vomits in the car. Most dogs will outgrow this problem. Check
- with your vet if it does not. See Carsickness in Assorted
- Topics for further comments.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Worms
-
- Summary
-
- Worm Symptoms
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- roundworms | pot belly, dull coat, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of weight
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- hookworms | anemia, diarrhea, bloody stools (esp. puppies)
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- tapeworms | "rice" on anal area or in stools, possible diarrhea/vomiting
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- whipworms | loss of weight, some diarrhea, difficult to detect
- ------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
- threadworms | profuse watery diarrhea, lung infection symptoms (esp. puppies)
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
- Preventing worms
-
- (summarized from Carlson & Giffin.)
-
- The best way to deal with worms, of course, is to make use of worm
- prevention techniques.
-
- Most worms have a lifecycle that makes it easy to reinfest dogs
- because only part of that lifecycle is on the dog. Steps you can take
- to control worms in general:
- * If you have a kennel, do not use dirt. A water tight surface that
- can be hosed down is best; gravel works also. Remove stools from
- pens daily.
- * Lawns should be kept short and watered only when necessary. Remove
- stools from the yard daily.
- * Control fleas, lice, and rodents, as all these pests can be
- intermediate hosts for tapeworms.
- * Do not let your dog roam, as it may ingest tainted meat. Any meat
- fed to your dog must be thoroughly cooked.
-
- Puppies
-
- Most puppies have worms, as some immunity to worms only comes after
- six months of ages and the mother will infect them with her dormant
- worm larvae. Puppies should be wormed at 2-3 weeks and again at 4-6
- weeks. You should be especially vigilant for worms while your puppy is
- still growing; a bad case of worms can seriously interfere with its
- development. Bring fresh fecal samples in regularly to the vet for
- analysis.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
-
- Health Care Issues FAQ
- Cindy Tittle Moore, cindy@k9web.com
-
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