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- From: jonesm2@rpi.edu (Michael D. Jones)
- Subject: rec.pets.dogs: Samoyeds Breed-FAQ
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- =======
- There are nearly 100 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
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- ==========
-
-
- Authors
-
- Michael D. Jones, October 4, 1993 [jonesm2@rpi.edu]
- Copyright 1993-1997 by Michael D. Jones.
-
- Thanks to the authors of the Alaskan Malamute FAQ, which provided the
- model and some of the text for this FAQ.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Table of Contents
-
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- DESCRIPTIONS
-
- The Samoyed is a strong, medium-sized sled dog. They stand 19 to
- 23-1/2 inches at the shoulder and typically weigh 45-65 pounds. They
- are very handsome dogs, friendly but dignified. Samoyeds are in many
- ways medium between the smaller Siberian Husky and larger Alaskan
- Malamute, and this is reflected in many places in the standard. There
- are many similarities between these breeds, particularly between the
- Samoyed and the Malamute.
-
- Official AKC Standard for the Samoyed (condensed): (As submitted by
- the Samoyed Club of America, and approved by the AKC April 9, 1963.
- Contact the AKC or the SCA for a complete copy.
-
- GENERAL CONFORMATION
-
- _General Appearance_. The Samoyed, being essentially a working dog,
- should present a picture of beauty, alertness and strength, with
- agility, dignity and grace. As his work lies in cold climates, his
- coat should be heavy and weather resistant, well-groomed, and of good
- quality rather than quantity. He should not be long in back as a weak
- back would make him practically useless for his legitimate work, but
- at the same time a close-coupled body would also place him at a great
- disadvantage as a draft dog. Breeders should aim for the happy medium,
- a body not long but muscular, allowing liberty, with a deep chest and
- well-sprung ribs, strong neck, straight front and especially strong
- loins. [Dogs and bitches] should both give the appearance of being
- capable of great endurance but be free from coarseness. Because of the
- depth of chest required, the legs should be moderately long.
- Hindquarters should be particularly well-developed, stifles well-bent
- and any suggestion of unsound stifles or cowhocks severely penalized.
-
- _Substance_. The bone is heavier than would be expected in a dog of
- this size but not so massive as to prevent the speed and agility most
- desirable in a Samoyed. In all builds, bone should be in proportion to
- body size. The Samoyed should never be so heavy as to appear clumsy
- nor so light as to appear racy. The weight should be in proportion to
- the height.
-
- _Height_. Males, 21 to 23-1/2 inches. Females, 19 to 21 inches at the
- withers. An oversized or undersized Samoyed is to be penalized
- according to the extent of the deviation.
-
- _Coat_. (Texture and Condition). The Samoyed is a double-coated dog.
- The body should be well-covered with an undercoat of soft, short,
- thick close wool with longer and harsh hair growing through it to form
- the outer coat, which stands straight out from the body and should be
- free from curl. The coat should form a ruff around the neck and
- shoulders, framing the head. Quality of coat should be weather
- resistant and considered more than quantity.
-
- _Color_. Samoyeds should be pure white, white and biscuit, cream, or
- all biscuit.
-
- MOVEMENT
-
- _Gait_. The Samoyed should trot, not pace. When trotting, there should
- be a strong rear action drive. Moving at a slow walk or trot, they
- will not single track, but as speed increases, the legs gradually
- angle inward until the pads are finally falling on a line directly
- under the longitudinal center of the body.
-
- _Rear End_. Upper thighs should be well-developed. Stifles
- well-bent--approximately 45 degrees to the ground. The hind legs
- should be parallel when viewed from the rear in a natural stance,
- strong, well-developed, turning neither in nor out. Straight stifles
- are objectionable. Double-jointedness or cowhocks are a fault.
-
- _Front End_. Legs should be parallel and straight to the pasterns.
- Because of depth of chest, legs should be moderately long. Length of
- leg from the ground to the elbow should be approximately 55 percent of
- the total height at the withers--a very short-legged dog is to be
- deprecated.
-
- _Feet_. Large, long, flattish--a hare foot, slightly spread but not
- splayed; toes arched; pads thick and tough, with protective growth of
- hair between the toes.
-
- DISPOSITION
-
- Intelligent, gentle, loyal, adaptable, alert, full of action, eager to
- serve, friendly but conservative, not distrustful or shy, not overly
- aggressive. Unprovoked aggressiveness to be severely penalized.
-
- DISQUALIFICATIONS
-
- Any color other than pure wite, cream, biscuit, or white and biscuit.
-
- Blue eyes.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- HISTORY
-
- [Ref: Ward (see below)]
-
- The Samoyed dog takes its name from the Samoyed tribes of Siberia from
- whom the founding stock of the breed was obtained. The name was
- originally spelled Samoyede, but the final "e" was dropped by the AKC
- in 1947. The word "samoyed" translates literally as "living off
- themselves," referring to the self-sufficiency of both the dogs and
- tribes. The natives themselves called the dogs "Bjelkiers,", or "white
- dogs that breed white." The proper pronunciation of the name is
- sammy-YED, not sam-OY-ed or SAM-oyed; there is no "oy" sound in the
- native language.
-
- The Samoyed is a true working dog, having served as a herder of
- reindeer, as a sledge dog and as a household companion, watchdog and
- helper. The breed may be best known to the public for its work as a
- sled dog in both Arctic and Antarctic exploration. As the lead dog on
- Roald Amundsen's expedition, a Samoyed was probably the first
- non-native creature to set foot (or paw) on the South Pole. All the
- major characteristics of today's Samoyed - the erect ears, the smiling
- face, the buff to white coat, and the plumed tail - are natural, and
- may be seen clearly in photographs of the breed from the early 1800s.
- [Ref: Informational postings by various Samfans.]
-
- The dogs were originally called "Samoyede" by an English zoologist;
- the final 'e' was droped by the English Kennel Club and the AKC in
- 1923 and 1947 respectively.
-
- Dr. Fritjov Nansen, the Norwegian explorer, obtained Samoyeds from a
- Siberian resident who was in contact with the Samoyede people. He used
- these dogs on a number of polar expeditions, recommended the breed
- highly to other explorers, and brought his remaining dogs back to
- Norway.
-
- The Samoyede people live today much as they always did in remote areas
- of Siberia; a recent French video documentary on the tribe showed dogs
- that look like the Samoyed of today (except that some of them were
- black and white) running with reindeer and pulling sleds.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- CHARACTERISTICS AND TEMPERAMENT
-
- Coat and Grooming
-
- The Samoyed is a double coated breed. This coat consists of a woolly
- undercoat and longer guard hairs. Twice a year, Samoyeds "blow" their
- undercoats, that is, they shed their undercoats completely. It is a
- very intense shedding period that can last up to three weeks from
- start to finish. The good news is that this only happens twice a year.
- The remainder of the time, Samoyeds are relatively shed free (unlike
- smooth coated breeds). The bad news is that the shedding period can be
- rather messy. The hair comes out in large and small clumps. Lots of
- vacuuming and brushing are in order. The undercoat can be carded and
- spun into yarn; it is best when blended with about 40% other fiber,
- such as wool or alpaca. Due to the Samoyed's subpolar origin, the fur
- is very warm despite its lightness.
-
- The Samoyed is a very clean and relatively odor free dog. It tends to
- clean itself like a cat. Even when a Samoyed becomes covered in mud,
- it will clean itself. Casual observers might think that keeping a pure
- white dog clean would be a major chore, but fanciers of the breed
- understand its uncanny ability to shed dirt and most stains. Even
- grass stains disappear from the coat in just a few days. Bathing needs
- are minimal; thorough brushings and/or "dry baths" using a mixture of
- cornstarch and baby powder often suffices. A full bath may not be
- necessary more than once per year; in fact, too frequent bathing may
- remove some of the gloss and stain-resistance of the coat. Special
- "white-enhancing" shampoos with bluing are available to make your
- Samoyed sparkly white.
-
- Other than during coat-blowing season, the Samoyed needs relatively
- little grooming. Daily brushing is ideal, but two or three times a
- week is sufficient; the brushing should be thorough to penetrate the
- outer coat and remove any loose undercoat. A long pin brush, a slicker
- brush and possibly a rake are essential grooming tools. Trimming needs
- are minimal, and if done should be done so that it looks natural and
- uncut. The body coat should never be clipped or trimmed except for
- medical reasons. Their nails should be checked and clipped
- periodically.
-
- NEVER clip a Samoyed for the summer. After the undercoat has been
- "blown out", the outer coat provides insulation from the heat and
- protection from the sun. It is actually reflective. Exposed skin will
- be very sensitive to the sun, and will sunburn very easily; this can
- lead to skin cancer. Regular grooming and constant access to cool
- water are particularly important in the summer, especially in warmer
- climates.
-
- Temperament
-
- Samoyeds are friendly by nature to both people and other dogs. Their
- demand for affection is moderate; they like being with their pack, but
- are usually not "lap dogs" by any measure. This pack-oriented nature
- means that they do better when included in the family (pack, from
- their point of view) than when left outside by themselves. As befits
- their Northern ancestry, they may enjoy spending periods outside -
- particularly during cold weather - but their "place" should be inside
- with the rest of the pack.
-
- Samoyeds are quite intelligent, and can be very stubborn and get bored
- easily; all these are characteristics they share with Malmutes and
- Siberian Huskies. Their strength and quickness can be quite surprising
- to someone who has met a fluffy white Samoyed during a quiet period,
- for their appearance is quite gentle and, as Daniel Pinkwater said of
- Malamutes, they can "sleep like cinderblocks." Their intelligence, and
- strong independent nature make them a challenge to train; where a
- Golden Retriever, for instance, may work *for* his master, a Samoyed
- works *with* his master or not at all. Holding the dog's respect is a
- prerequisite to training. They learn quickly; the trick is teaching
- the dog to behave reliably without hitting his boredom threshold. It
- is these characteristics that have earned Samoyeds (and with the other
- Northern breeds) the appelation "non-traditional obedience dogs."
- Samoyeds do compete successfully in obedience trials, though, so it is
- not a hopeless cause. Samoyeds are often not the best choice for the
- first-time dog owner.
-
- By nature, Samoyeds are friendly dogs. They were used as watchdogs by
- their native owners in Siberia, though, and display relatively more
- watchdog behavior than their Northern cousins the Malamute and
- Siberian. They are completely unsuited to guarding duty, though.
-
- Barking, Talking, and Howling
-
- Samoyeds both bark and talk, though they generally do not howl. They
- tend to be rather quiet, with big deep barks that can be quite
- startling. Some Samoyeds are more frequent barkers, and these tend to
- have more high-pitched piercing barks. The Samoyed may also "talk"
- with a soft "aroo" or "woo-woo" sound similar to the Malamute.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- CARE AND TRAINING
-
- Feeding
-
- When you collect your puppy, your breeder should tell you what the
- puppy's diet has been to date, as well as recommendation as to the
- best food and feeding frequency in the future, both for while the dog
- is still a puppy as well as when the dog is an adult. You should try
- and follow the puppy's diet at the time you collect him from the
- breeder as best you can, until the puppy is settled in to its new
- environment. Then you can gradually change the diet to suit your
- preferences. Remember that sudden changes in diet can severely disrupt
- the puppy's digestive system and cause gastric distress.
-
- As for the type and "brand" of dog food, basically any reputable dog
- food manufacturer provides a dog food that is sufficient to keep a dog
- healthy. However, the premium brands of dog food have the advantage
- that one can feed the dog less and still get very good nourishment. In
- addition, stool size and amount is generally less with the premium dog
- foods. Keep in mind that feeding dogs is partly art, and partly
- science. The dog food manufactures have done the science part. The
- rest is up to you. Some people feed their dogs a mix of canned and dry
- food twice a day. Others feed only dry and allow free feeding, and so
- on. Be sure and pick a frequency of feeding, brand, and type of food
- to suit your dogs needs. For working Samoyeds, something equivalent to
- a Science Diet Performance or Eukanuba is in order. For Samoyeds that
- go for walks and hikes, a Maintenance formula is usually best. Consult
- your breeder and veterinarian for advice.
-
- One other thing worth mentioning here is how long to feed puppy food.
- Some research indicates that feeding puppy food for too long can
- increase the incidence of hip dysplasia in dogs that are susceptible
- to it. Some breeders start feeding adult food very soon.
-
- Samoyeds are often extremely fond of fish, which many people find
- surprising. Fish can often be used as a diet supplement or special
- treat for Sammys.
-
- Housing
-
- Samoyeds are happiest when they can share in family activities. The
- best arrangement is one in which the dog can come in and out of the
- house of its own free-will, through a dog door. If a dog door is not
- possible, then training the dog to go to an outside door to be let out
- is also very easy to do. Outside, the dog should have a large, fenced
- yard. The fence should be strong and at least 4 feet tall. Samoyeds
- are not as prone to digging or escape as Malamutes, but they rate
- pretty high by normal standards. They are prone to dig shallow
- "wallows" in hot weather; they will typically just turn over a layer
- of dirt to get to the cooler earth just below the surface.
-
- Because the Samoyed is an arctic dog, it can remain outside in very
- cold weather. However, it should be provided with shelter from the
- elements in the form of a good sturdy house. A good insulated house
- with nice straw bedding is perfect for Samoyeds that spend most of
- their time outside. Heating the dog house is usually not necessary. It
- should be stressed that leaving a Samoyed outside all the time is
- definitely inferior accomodations to being inside with the family.
-
- Training
-
- Training Samoyeds, as any Northern breed, can be a challenge. With
- this breed, it is important to start young. Establish rules of the
- house early, and make sure that the puppy knows that you are in
- charge. For example, if you do not want the dog on the bed as an
- adult, do not allow it as a puppy. The rule of thumb is that if you
- train a dog to do something, expect him to do it. Therefore, if the
- puppy learns that certain things are allowed, it will be difficult to
- train them not to do them as adults. Things that are cute as puppies
- may not be all that cute when the dog weighs 60 lbs or more.
-
- Since the dog is pack-oriented, it important to establish yourself as
- the head of the pack, or alpha, very early. Once you do this, the dog
- will respect you and training will be much easier. It is best to
- enroll in a puppy training class (or puppy kindergarten training as
- they are commonly known) soon after your dog is home and has all of
- its vaccinations. This training is good for the dog and for you as the
- owner, as it will help you understand your new puppy and establish you
- as alpha very early in the puppy's life, which is extremely important
- with this breed. Once you have completed the puppy class, and have
- been working with the dog for a few months, a basic obedience class is
- in order.
-
- Obedience training this breed can be very interesting and extremely
- challenging. Many owners will complain that their dogs act perfectly
- in class, but will not obey at home. This breed is intelligent enough
- to differentiate situations very well, and will apply different rules
- of behavior for different situations. You must stay on top of the dog
- and maintain control, which is easier to do while the dog is of
- manageable size than with a stubborn adult that has been allowed to
- get away with undesirable behaviors for a long time.
-
- It is very important to remember that Samoyeds are a *working breed*.
- They need something to do. Putting them in the backyard and tossing
- them a bone and expecting them to be happy us a very bad idea. They
- need a lot of exercise and interaction to be happy. The exercise can
- come in the form of mushing, which is of course best, or can easily be
- in the form of draft work, frequent walks, hikes, and playing. The dog
- makes a wonderful hiking companion, and with a dog pack, can carry
- food and water. Skijouring, where a dog pulls a cross-country skier,
- is an excellent winter activity for those who don't have the
- inclination (or the number of dogs) to take up mushing.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- SPECIAL MEDICAL PROBLEMS
-
- The Samoyed, as a breed, is relatively free of particular
- breed-related medical problems.
-
- Snow Nose or Bad Pigmentation
-
- Snow Nose is described as a pink/reddish marking on the black nose. It
- is commonly experienced amongst the northern breeds. Snow Nose can
- disappear over the warmer months and reappear over the winter months.
- There is nothing wrong with snow nose.
-
- Pink or mottled noses are not faults in the Samoyed, and pink noses
- appear to be more "natural" based on research into the early history
- of the breed. One of the few "changes" we've made in the breed in the
- last hundred years is selecting for black noses.
-
- Bloat
-
- Bloat is a condition that affects all large, deep chested breeds. It
- is a potentially life-threatening condition which usually affects dogs
- in the prime of life. Basically, the dog's stomach will swell from
- gas, fluid, or both (this is acute gastric dilation). Once distended,
- the stomach may twist abruptly on its long axis. If it does twist, but
- the twist is less than 180 degrees, it is called a torsion. If greater
- than 180 degrees, it is called a volvulus. Therefore, the term bloat
- can refer to any of these three conditions (acute gastric distortion,
- torsion, or volvulus). Acute gastric dilation is not serious, and may
- clear up itself in a few minutes. Torsion or volvulus are life
- threatening and immediate veterinary attention is required. The chance
- for recurrence is around fifteen percent. The cause of bloat is
- unknown.
-
- Hip Dysplasia
-
- This is a genetic disorder that affects Samoyeds. Simply put, hip
- dysplasia is a deformation in the hip joint. That is, the head of the
- femur does not sit solidly in the acetabulum. The joint lacks
- tightness, and the condition results in a painful and often
- debilitating life for the dog. Hip dysplasia is considered to be a
- moderately inheritable condition. Breeders will usually have breeding
- pairs OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) certified prior to
- breeding. OFA certification can be given only after a dog is over 24
- months old.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
-
- _How do Samoyeds handle the summer heat? _
-
- Like any dog, to cope with summer heat the Samoyed needs a constant
- supply of water to drink and shade from the sun. If the dog is
- allowed inside then it will find its own cool spot (probably on the
- kitchen or bathroom floor if it is tiled or linoleum floored).
- Outdoors, the dog will probably dig a shallow "wallow" by turning
- over a layer of soil to get to the cooler earth just beneath the
- surface. Some dogs like having ice added to their water to help
- keep it cool. Some also enjoy a children's wading pool filled with
- water in the summer time. The Samoyed sheds a lot of coat before
- summer, as soon as the whether starts to warm up, which also allows
- them to keep cool. Heavy exercise should be avoided in excessive
- heat. Curtail exercise times to be early morning or just after
- sunset. Once the dog is acclimated to his environment, he is
- usually fine. NEVER clip a Samoyed for the summer. The outer coat
- is actually reflective and shades the dog's skin. Exposed skin is
- very prone to sunburn, which can lead to skin cancer. Samoyeds are
- remarkably adaptable animals. However, one should never try and
- push a dog beyond his capability to cope with the heat. To do so
- can be disastrous. One must keep in mind the type of climate the
- dog is acclimated for and not look for signs of heat stress. Do not
- ever lock any dog in a car in direct sunlight, or in the shade for
- a great deal of time, even with the windows down a little for
- ventilation the heat generated by the dog is still enough to cause
- heat stress in summer.
-
- _What are they like with children? _
-
- Due to their gentle temperament the Samoyed is generally a very
- good family dog. They seem to enjoy the company of children, though
- common sense must be used when mixing any dog with young children.
- They are powerful dogs; children should not be left in total
- control of the dog. Samoyeds are generally patient by nature and
- will tolerate young children fawning over them, but this should be
- strictly supervised for the sake of the dog as well as the child.
- With these caveats in mind, since Samoyeds love attention, well
- behaved children get along wonderfully with well mannered and
- socialized Samoyeds.
-
- _What are they like inside a house? _
-
- Samoyeds, aside from the occasional invasion of masses of fur when
- they are shedding coat, are excellent house dogs. They are
- extremely clean dogs and surprisingly quiet. They are very
- sure-footed and in no way clumsy around furniture. They will often
- pick out a favorite sleeping spot and stay there for hours.
- Favorite spots seem to be tiled and linoleum floors in warm
- weather, soft pillows or beds at other times. The dog may seek out
- drafty areas and possibly lie in front of doors with cold drafts
- during the winter.
-
- _How much do they eat? _
-
- It depends on the type of food. An average Samoyed will eat about 2
- or 3 cups of a "premium" dog food (like Science Diet or Eukanuba)
- per day. The actual amount of food will vary depending on the
- metabolism and activity level of the dog, and the type of food that
- is given. A working adult will eat approximately 3 cups of high
- density food per day. Other dogs will generally eat less. Puppies
- require smaller, more frequent meals.
-
- _How much exercise do they need, and what kind? _
-
- You should not strenuously exercise a puppy under 6 months of age.
- Their muscular-skeleto system is not developed enough yet. Their
- play is enough to keep them healthy. You should play with your
- puppy and work on some of the basic obedience commands with him, in
- a playful way. Once the dog is 6 months old, a kindergarten puppy
- training class or a basic obedience class is a very good idea. It
- will start you both out on the right foot. You can then more easily
- start taking the dog for walks in your area on a leash. By the time
- the dog is full grown, at around 12 months, he will be ready for
- much longer walks, an hour per day or more. The obedience training
- will make the walks much more enjoyable. Hiking, with a dog
- back-pack is great fun. One can also bike with a dog, with a nifty
- device known as a "Springer." Finally, sledding is an excellent
- form of exercise, and is what the dog was bred for. Skijouring is
- an alternative winter sport. The sled dog part of the FAQ for
- rec.pets.dogs covers these things in more detail.
-
- _Do they pull sleds very fast? _
-
- The Samoyed, again, is the "happy medium" dog. They are not as fast
- as Siberians, but they are faster than Malamutes. They excel at
- endurance, though, and were the preferred dogs of a number of early
- polar (North and South) explorers.
-
- _How strong are they? _
-
- Again, the medium. Stronger than Siberians, but not as strong as
- Malamutes. A Samoyed won the 50-76 pound class at a recent [as this
- was written] weight pull by pulling 2,130 pounds (on a wheeled
- cart) 16 feet in 10.3 seconds.
-
- _Do they shed a lot? _
-
- Samoyeds blow their undercoats twice per year. They do not
- typically shed year round like many dog breeds. When they do blow
- their coat, they lose lots of hair (several grocery sacks full per
- week).
-
- _Do they like to fight other dogs? _
-
- No. Samoyeds are very pack oriented dogs. As such, they communicate
- with other dogs in a variety of ways. An ill mannered, aggressive
- dog is not a good team dog and therefore not a good sled dog.
- However, poorly socialized and trained Samoyeds can be aggressive
- towards other dogs. For this reason, it is very important for a
- Samoyed owner to train the dog carefully and make sure to properly
- socialize it with other dogs.
-
- _I've heard Samoyeds are dumb. Is this true? _
-
- No! Samoyeds are extremely intelligent working dogs. People often
- mistake the fact that they can be difficult to train as a sign of
- stupidity. Samoyeds are very clever and easily bored. The key to
- training them is to keep them interested and to challenge their
- intelligence. A Samoyed probably knows what you want him to do, he
- just may not want to do it!
-
- _Just how cold can a Samoyed live in? _
-
- Samoyeds worked on Antarctic expeditions, where temperatures
- reguarly reached -50 degrees (F) and may have touched -70. Dogs
- raised in more temperate zones will not develop the quality of coat
- necessary for those temperatures.
-
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- REFERENCES
-
- Books
-
- Ward, Robert H. and Dolly. _The New Complete Samoyed_, 1985, Howell
- Book House. ISBN 0-87605-298-7.
-
- Periodicals
-
- Breed Rescue Organizations
-
- There is no national breed rescue organization for Samoyeds, but many
- local breed clubs engage in rescue work.
-
- Breed Clubs
-
- Samoyed Club of America
- Lori Elvera, Corresponding Secretary, 3711 Brices Ford Court,
- Fairfax, VA 22033
- kenoshasam@aol.com
- http://www.samoyed.org/Samoyed_Club_of_America.html
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- Breeders
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- In the United States: Contact the Samoyed Club of America for breeder
- recommendations in your area.
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- Internet Resources
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- Samoyed Club of Americal Web Page
- http://www.samoyed.org/Samoyed_Club_of_America.html
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- SamFans mailing list
- To subscribe, send a message with the following subject:
- Subscribe samfans firstname lastname to
- majordomo@hpc.sdsmt.edu. Replace your own first name and last
- name for firstname lastname.
-