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- =======
- There are nearly 100 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
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- than the URL listed above without the permission of the Author(s).
- This article may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in other
- documents without he Author(s)'s permission and is provided "as is"
- without express or implied warranty.
- ==========
-
-
-
-
- MASTIFF F. A. Q.
-
- Frequently Asked Questions about
- the Mastiff,
- also commonly referred to as
- the English or Old English Mastiff (OEM)
-
-
-
-
- "Dedicated to the Ones who wait for us
- at the end of the Rainbow Bridge."
-
-
-
- Revision History:
- * Release 1.00, January 20, 1997 (Pre-USENET Release)
- * Release 1.01, February 1, 1997
- * Release 1.02, March 14, 1997
- * Release 1.03, March 31, 1997 (USENET Release)
- * Release 1.04, August 12, 1997
- + Combined the two separate parts into one document
- + Updated the largest dog in the world's weight
- + Added 1998 Specialty information
- + Appendix D - Rescue - revised to reflect new structure
- + Appendix E - Added a number of Mastiff books, sites
- + Appendix I - Updated MCOA contact list
- + Appendix J - New or changed sites for Bullmastiffs, Dogues,
- Filas, Saints, Tibetans
- + ... and a number of minor changes through-out
-
-
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- TABLE OF CONTENTS
-
-
- I. INTRODUCTION AND LEGAL STUFF
-
- A. Introduction
- B. Copyright
- C. Disclaimer
- D. Contributors
-
- II. QUESTIONS FREQUENTLY ASKED ABOUT THE MASTIFF
-
- 1. What is a Mastiff?
- 2. What is the Mastiff Club Of America (MCOA)?
- 3. Where do Mastiffs come from?
- 4. What are Mastiffs good for?
- 5. Are all Mastiffs the same?
- 6. Are Mastiffs:
- a. Aggressive?
- b. Easy to train?
- c. Fighters?
- d. Good guard dogs?
- e. Protective?
- f. Shy?
- 7. What are Mastiffs like in the house?
- 8. How much does a Mastiff:
- a. Cost?
- b. Eat?
- c. Weigh?
- 9. Do Mastiffs:
- a. Bark much?
- b. Bite?
- c. Chew?
- d. Dig?
- e. Make good obedience dogs?
- f. Need a lot of exercise?
- g. Pass gas?
- h. Roam?
- i. Shed?
- j. Slobber?
- k. Smell?
- l. Snore?
- m. Live indoors or outdoors?
- 10. How are Mastiffs with:
- a. Burglars, muggers and other miscreants?
- b. Other dogs?
- c. Other animals?
- d. Strangers?
- e. Young children?
- 11. How long does a Mastiff live?
- 12. Can I get a white Mastiff? What colors can I get?
- 13. Male vs. female, which is friendlier? more protective? Easier
- to train?
- 14. Is there anything special I should know about raising a
- Mastiff puppy - isn't it the same as any other breed?
- 15. How much training does a Mastiff need?
- 16. Do Mastiffs have any genetic health problems?
- 17. What are the common non-genetic health problems in Mastiffs?
- 18. What other problems do Mastiffs have?
- 19. What kind of a temperament does a Mastiff have?
- 20. What does a Mastiff eat?
- 21. What kind of living quarters does a Mastiff require? How
- about crating? Where do they sleep?
- 22. Does owning a Mastiff:
- a. Cost a lot?
- b. Require a lot of work?
- 23. Are you trying to talk me out of getting a Mastiff?
- 24. Where should I get a Mastiff?
- 25. Where can I get more information about Mastiffs?
- 26. How do I pick a Mastiff puppy?
- 27. What questions should I ask the breeder (and what answers
- should I get)
- 28. What kind of toys and other paraphernalia do I need for my
- Mastiff?
- 29. Is that a Mastiff in:
- 30. What's the difference between a Mastiff and a Bullmastiff?
-
- III. APPENDICES
-
- A. History of the Mastiff
- B. MCOA / AKC Mastiff Conformation Standard
- C. MCOA Code of Ethics
- D. MCOA Rescue Service
- 1. What is the MCOA Rescue Service?
- 2. MCOA Rescue Service Contacts
- E. Mastiff References and Resources
- 1. Books
- 2. Publications
- 3. Video / Audio
- 4. Computer Programs & Databases
- 5. Mastiffs on the Internet
- F. Health Tests / Certifications every Mastiff SHOULD have
- G. Questions To Ask a Mastiff Breeder
- H. Special Aspects of Raising a Mastiff Puppy
- I. Mastiff Clubs & Contacts
- 1. Mastiff Club of America
- 2. US Regional Mastiff Clubs
- 3. Mastiff Clubs in Other Countries
- J. Mastiff Varieties and Internet References
-
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- I. INTRODUCTION AND LEGAL STUFF
-
- A. _Introduction_
- Hello and welcome to the wonderful world of the Mastiff! In our
- not so humble opinion, the Mastiff is THE best breed of dog to be
- owned by, bar none. BUT, the Mastiff is NOT a breed for everyone.
- We've tried to gear this F. A. Q. towards the breed browser and
- the first time Mastiff wanna-be owner. Here we've tried to show
- both the upside and the downside of the Mastiff / human
- relationship. Not that we're trying to chase you away (we wish
- everyone could enjoy the love and companionship of one of these
- great beasties), but we'd much rather have you know about the
- possible trials and tribulations BEFORE your new Mastiff pup walks
- through the front door, not AFTER. As the breed's popularity and
- exposure increases, more and more people are getting a Mastiff
- without any idea what-so-ever of what they're getting into. Way
- too often this ends up in severe disappoint for the human and
- tragedy for the Mastiff. So please, please, study this F. A. Q.
- Ask questions. Look before you leap! We hope that this F. A. Q. in
- some way helps you in making your decision and / or preparing for
- your life with a Mastiff. Good luck and doG Bless!
- B. _Copyright_
- This FAQ is a publication of, and Copyright (c) 1995, 1996, 1997
- by, the Mastiff Club Of America, Incorporated (MCOA). All rights
- are reserved. The Mastiff AKC Conformation Standard (Appendix B)
- is included with the permission of the American Kennel Club, Inc.
- The MCOA hereby gives permission to freely distribute this
- document in its entirety for non-profit, non-commercial, personal
- use and for traditional Internet archiving, provided that the
- document is distributed in its entirety and that no changes are
- made. Permission is also given to freely distribute excerpts and
- quotes provided that attribution is given to the Mastiff Club Of
- America, Inc. This FAQ may NOT be included in any commercial
- collections or compilations. If you find it in one, please notify
- the FAQ maintainer so appropriate action can be taken.
- C. _Disclaimer_
- This FAQ is provided as is without any express or implied
- warranties or guarantees as to the content's accuracy,
- completeness or applicability to a specific animal. While every
- effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information
- contained in this article, the MCOA, the contributors and the
- maintainer assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or
- for damages resulting from the use of the information contained
- herein.
- D. _Contributors_
- + Laurie Adams
- + Donna Dick
- + Deb Jones
- + Sharon Krauss
- + Kirsten Ludwig
- + Mike McBee
- + Linda Monroe
- Please send any comments, corrections or criticisms about the FAQ
- to the FAQ maintainer, Mike McBee, at mmcbee@access.mountain.net.
-
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- II. QUESTIONS FREQUENTLY ASKED ABOUT THE MASTIFF
-
- 1. _What is a Mastiff?_
- A Mastiff is a giant breed of dog, descended from the ancient
- Alaunt and Molosser. Today, mastiff is used to describe many
- different breeds around the world, all descended from the same
- root stock. In the US and other English speaking countries,
- Mastiff is used to refer to the Old English Mastiff (OEM),
- developed in England and nearly extinct after WW II. With that in
- mind, Mastiffs (OEMs) are generally very large dogs; fawn, apricot
- or brindle in color; all with a black mask and ears; possessing a
- medium to short coat with very little white (which, if it appears,
- should be confined to the chest but often appears on the toes as
- well). There is no upper height limit and no weight range in the
- Mastiff Standard. In height they generally range from the
- Standard's minimum of 27 1/2 inches up to 36 inches for the
- exceptionally tall ones. They can weigh anywhere from 110 pounds
- to the 343 pounds of Zorba, the world's largest dog, although most
- Mastiff males weigh around 160-230 pounds and females around
- 120-170 pounds. This breed is supposed to be very broad with a
- huge head, wide chest and large bone, and is longer in body than
- in height (see Appendix B, the Mastiff Conformation Standard).
- Mastiffs are not supposed to resemble Great Danes except possibly
- in height, nor Saint Bernards, except for the bone, width, chest
- and large head. They should not be as wrinkled as a Neapolitan nor
- as dome headed as a Dogue de Bordeaux, nor 'houndy' like a Fila
- Brasileiro. Mastiffs possess characteristics unique to the breed,
- especially the head with a broad, deep muzzle with flews hanging
- over the bottom lip, giving the head a square appearance. A
- Mastiff should possess a calm, self assured temperament and be
- devoted to its family and friends. Mastiffs should not be
- aggressive to humans or other animals, including other dogs,
- although, unfortunately, some of them are. Mastiffs should be
- steady, gentle, eager for affection, good with children, calm and
- self assured, and used primarily as a family companion.
- 2. _What is the Mastiff Club Of America (MCOA)?_
- The Mastiff Club Of America was incorporated in 1929 to protect
- and promote the Mastiff. It is the Mastiff parent breed club
- member of the American Kennel Club. Membership is open to persons
- 18 years or older, in good standing with the American Kennel Club,
- who subscribe to the purposes of the Club, and who agree to abide
- and uphold the Club's Code of Ethics (Appendix C), Constitution
- and By-Laws. Applicants must be sponsored by two MCOA members who
- have been members in good standing for at least three years.
- Applicants will be an associate member (without voting or office
- holding privileges) for a period of one year. The MCOA is a
- non-profit organization. For membership information and
- application forms, contact the MCOA Membership Chairman (see
- Appendix I.1 for contact information).
- The objectives of the Club are:
- + to encourage and promote the selective breeding of quality
- purebred Mastiffs and to do all possible to bring their
- natural qualities to fit the standard
- + to encourage the organization of independent local Mastiff
- Specialty Clubs in those localities where there are
- sufficient fanciers of the breed to meet the requirements of
- the American Kennel Club
- + to urge members and breeders to accept the standard of the
- breed as approved by the American Kennel Club as the only
- standard of excellence by which Mastiffs shall be judged
- + to do all in its power to protect and advance the interests
- of the breed and to encourage sportsmanlike competition at
- dog shows and obedience trials
- + to provide for the welfare of the breed through a program of
- Mastiff Rescue and continuing education
- + to conduct sanctioned matches, obedience trials, and
- specialty shows under the rules of the American Kennel Club.
- The MCOA conducts a roving Independent National Specialty in the
- spring of each year; in 1996 the Specialty was held in St. Louis,
- Mo. and in Sacramento, Ca., in 1997. The 1998 MCOA National
- Specialty and Obedience Trial will held May 5-9, at the Embers Inn
- and Convention Center, Carlisle, PA. See
- http://www.idsonline.com/business/djones/spec98.htm for more
- information.
- The Club publishes a quarterly Journal available by subscription
- (see Appendix I.1 for Subscription Editor's address) and a
- quarterly Bulletin for its members.
- The MCOA offers a Genetic Data Collection Service to individuals
- and breeders who are interested in researching the genetic
- background of their dogs (see Appendix F for more information).
- 3. _Where do Mastiffs come from?_
- See Appendix A for a brief history.
- 4. _What are Mastiffs good for?_
- Mastiffs excel as companions, family members, therapy workers and
- as watch dogs. Mastiffs have also done well, when properly trained
- and conditioned, at carting, tracking, obedience, conformation
- showing, search and rescue (SAR), and weight pulling. They are
- also great foot warmers and couch potatoes. :-)
- 5. _Are all Mastiffs the same?_
- No. Like humans, Mastiffs are individuals. Each has its own
- genetic and environmental history that effects its attitude,
- temperament, health and responses to stimuli. These questions are
- answered with the general breed characteristics in mind, no
- individual Mastiff will match the answers in every respect.
- Oh, that's not what you meant. While it is correct that the breed
- of mastiff dog developed in England has pre-empted the official
- name of 'Mastiff', according to the AKC's 'The Complete Dog Book',
- 18th Edition, "The breed commonly called "Mastiff" in English
- speaking countries is more properly described as the 'Old English'
- Mastiff." From the same source: "The term 'mastiff' describes a
- group of giant varieties of dogs rather than a single breed."
- If this is what you meant, then No, not all Mastiffs are the same.
- See Appendix J for a list of some of the different Mastiff
- varieties.
- 6. _Are Mastiffs:_
- a. Aggressive?
- Aggression is unnecessary force or dominance in any
- situation. Aggression should not be confused with protection
- where a dog uses force or dominance to protect its people or
- territory when threatened.
- The typical Mastiff's temperament, by nature, is one of
- gentle demeanor. However, as with any breed, a Mastiff can
- become aggressive for varying reasons.
- Typically, aggressive behavior is established due to
- environment as a "learned response" and/or results from a
- lack of proper socialization during the dog's developmental
- stages.
- A certain percentage of dogs may be genetically unstable and
- inherit aggressive tendencies. For this reason, before you
- purchase a puppy, it is best to ask the breeders about the
- temperament of the sire and the dam and try to see both if at
- all possible.
- Some dogs may have a predisposition for certain
- characteristics which may be the basis for aggressive
- behavior: a dominant dog may exhibit Dominant Aggression, an
- unsocialized dog may develop Fear Motivated Aggression, or a
- dog unsocialized with other dogs may develop Species
- Aggression. Most aggression can be prevented by proper
- rearing and socialization, beginning as a puppy.
- If you are experiencing a problem, consult your Mastiff's
- breeder, your veterinarian, and/or a trained animal
- behaviorist BEFORE the problem becomes serious.
- b. Easy to train?
- Both easy and difficult. Mastiffs are smart, and live to
- please. However, they go through phases where they are also
- stubborn, and these phases can last anywhere from a few weeks
- a couple of times in puppyhood to (in some cases) the
- lifetime of the dog!
- Keep training sessions short (10-15 minutes) and frequent
- (several times a day). In addition to their stubbornness,
- Mastiffs have very sensitive feelings, and if they are
- frightened, hurt, or confused, they cannot be budged. Make
- training like a game. Use a happy, excited voice. You have to
- be consistent and firm to train effectively. Once a dog is
- well trained, it needs practice on a regular basis. Dogs LIKE
- to be trained because they WANT to know how to please their
- beloved owners. Once trained, a Mastiff seldom needs stronger
- correction than a stern voice.
- Except for formal obedience training, you can use food treats
- for motivation. But the best reward for any Mastiff is lavish
- hugs and plenty of praise.
- c. Fighters?
- Mastiffs, with their gentle natures, do not have the
- instincts that dogfighters are looking for. Their protective
- instincts make them actually the opposite to the aggressive
- fighting personality. However, they will, at times, fight
- among themselves, or with other dogs, for the typical canine
- reasons such as pack dominance and sexual competition. Two
- 190 pound adult male Mastiffs in combat for pack leadership
- can be next to impossible, as well as exceedingly dangerous,
- to separate.
- d. Good guard dogs?
- Mastiffs are excellent guard dogs. They go to the door and
- bark, their hackles stand up, and they look formidable, but
- Mastiffs, as a breed, are not trigger-happy. They have a
- gentle, rather than an aggressive, nature.
- Mastiffs need the company of their human family much more
- than some other breeds of dogs do. A Mastiff left alone, tied
- out, or kept in a fenced yard with too little human company,
- will either pine away or develop destructive behaviors out of
- loneliness and anxiety. Denied the needed time with its
- family, a Mastiff may be much LESS protective because it
- isn't sure it belongs to that family.
- A normal, well adjusted Mastiff will protect it's family, but
- only if the need arises. You don't want an aggressive Mastiff
- that protects you from friends and family. The ideal
- temperament is one where you never know that you are being
- protected unless a true situation arises where a Mastiff's
- services are needed.
- e. Protective?
- Mastiffs ARE protective. However, many people do not
- understand the difference between protection and aggression.
- If a dog growls when there is no danger, that is aggression,
- NOT protection. A protective dog has the judgment to see when
- there is a real risk of danger, and therefore, if you have a
- TRULY protective dog, you may never know it till you ARE in
- danger.
- The protective instinct is shown in subtle ways, such as the
- Mastiff tending to stand between their person and a stranger.
- Many people who have kids discover that they can't spank a
- kid in front of the Mastiff -- it looks worried and gets in
- between the parent and child! Couples who sometimes
- play-wrestle together have reported their Mastiff trying to
- stop them for fear it is a fight.
- f. Shy?
- Because of their great sensitivity, Mastiffs who are not
- THOROUGHLY socialized when young can very easily become shy
- of strange people, places, and animals. Shyness can be both
- inherited and/or the result of inadequate socialization. This
- is why puppy kindergarten, obedience classes over an extended
- period of time, and visits to parks are EXTREMELY important
- to the development of your Mastiff. If you do not have the
- time to do these things with and for your Mastiff, you need
- to think over whether you are in a position to do right by a
- dog, at least at this point in your life.
- A shy dog is an uneasy, unhappy dog. If your dog is more shy
- than the average, then it is more important than ever to get
- the right amount of gentle, gradual socialization with lots
- of positive reinforcement for all its friendly, confident,
- non-shy actions.
- 7. _What are Mastiffs like in the house?_
- Clean, quiet, and undemanding. Heaven to a Mastiff is a rug beside
- his owner's chair. Mastiffs are naturally clean (except for
- slobber), and quick to housebreak. Most adult Mastiffs don't chew
- what they shouldn't, and they don't get on the furniture (unless
- you let them _;-)_).
- If you do let your young Mastiff on the sofa, just remember that
- they grow FAST, and it is unfair and quite unreasonable to let the
- dog learn to enjoy something, and then decide the dog is too big
- to get up there any more. Mastiffs have long memories, and are
- much easier to train correctly the first time than to retrain to
- get rid of bad habits.
- 8. _How much does a Mastiff:_
- a. Cost?
- Puppy prices usually run $800-1500 and up, depending on a
- number of variables such as pedigree, show potential,
- geographic location, and breeder costs. A higher price does
- NOT necessarily mean a better dog! Read this FAQ thoroughly
- to learn about testing and other evidences of health and
- soundness, as well as show wins, as the basis for selecting
- the pup most likely to be healthy, happy, and just what you
- want.
- b. Eat?
- Probably not as much as you think. Pound for pound, the
- larger the dog the less food it needs for each pound of body
- weight. Exactly how much food your dog needs depends on many
- factors including its size, age and activity level. Feed your
- Mastiff a good quality, balanced diet - low on table scraps -
- and don't let him get too fat.
- c. Weigh?
- Adult males generally run about 160-230 pounds, females are
- normally between 120-170 pounds. Males over 200 pounds are
- not too uncommon and a few females reach these weights.
- According to the Guinness Book of Records the record holder
- for the world's largest dog is Zorba, a Mastiff, at 343
- pounds. He stood 37 inches at the shoulder and was 8 foot 3
- inches from the tip of his nose to the tip of his tail. Zorba
- set this record in November, 1989, when he was 8 years old.
- 9. _Do Mastiffs:_
- a. Bark much?
- Puppies are puppies in most breeds. Young pups tend to bark
- more than adults because of the excitement of play. Adults
- rarely bark except when you first arrive home, or they hear a
- sound they want you to investigate, like a doorbell. Most
- Mastiffs will howl if they hear a siren close by, since it
- sounds like a howl such as wild dogs would respond to.
- b. Bite?
- Any dog bites if hurt, frightened, or threatened, but a
- Mastiff that is properly trained and socialized will
- typically not bite except as a very last resort. Do NOT let a
- pup (of any age) bite anyone or anything (except its litter
- mates) in play, since they NEED to know that biting is not
- allowed. They will still bite if there is an absolute
- necessity, but will not try it any other times.
- c. Chew?
- As for chewing, puppies of any breed need to be given durable
- toys that they know it is OK to chew. Any time you catch your
- puppy chewing on anything except its own chew toys, take the
- forbidden item away from it, and give it a chew toy, and
- encourage the dog to chew on its own toy. Praise it when it
- DOES chew on its own toy. Repeat as necessary (remember, we
- told you these dogs are stubborn!)
- d. Dig?
- Engineers on the Panama Canal project considered bringing in
- a myriad of Mastiffs to do the job, but ultimately rejected
- the idea when they figured out the manpower they'd have tied
- up in pooper scoopering.
- Seriously, though, many Mastiffs do like to dig. You'll have
- to ask them why.
- e. Make good obedience dogs?
- By nature, Mastiffs are eager to please. This makes them good
- Obedience dogs. But like any other breed, temperaments vary
- between individuals, so some Mastiffs are better candidates
- for the Obedience ring than others.
- Some Mastiffs are more laid back, aloof, and lethargic; while
- others are more outgoing, inquisitive, and athletic. Though
- both types of temperaments are trainable, the latter of these
- two temperaments would be better suited for competition in
- the Obedience ring.
- f. Need a lot of exercise?
- About as much as you do. Most Mastiffs are like most humans;
- they can manage a sedentary life reasonably well - but, also
- like most humans, they reach a physical peak with a moderate
- degree of exercise. It is important that you NOT over
- exercise any Mastiff under 2 years of age. Up until this age
- (and sometimes later) their skeleton is still developing.
- Since Mastiffs tend to be stoic, and also will do just about
- anything to be with and please their people, they can easily
- end up with an inflamed joint or other problems like those
- that beset humans who run for exercise.
- When you do begin to exercise your Mastiff, begin GRADUALLY.
- Build up SLOWLY. Make sure you know and watch for the signs
- of your dog getting tired or overheated. Take ice and water
- with you in case the dog overheats. The extra weight will add
- more effect to your workout! This is not to say that Mastiffs
- should not have any exercise at all as pups. On the contrary,
- Mastiff puppies are still puppies and need to do puppy things
- like running and playing. If left to their own schedule, they
- will rest themselves when they get tired. Crating a pup for
- most of its puppyhood is more detrimental than letting it
- play and exercise in moderation in the house and yard. If you
- go for long walks and your pup gets tired, be prepared to
- carry it home! Once a Mastiff is fully grown and its growth
- plates have closed, it can usually keep up with the best of
- us!
- g. Pass gas?
- Yep. Especially on a diet of beer, hard-boiled eggs and
- beans. Actually, like humans, it depends on how the Mastiff
- reacts to the food it eats, so using a good dog food should
- minimize the problem. If a dog can digest its food properly,
- it shouldn't have gas. Different dogs do best on different
- foods. See Question 20. 'What does a Mastiff eat?' for more
- information.
- If a Mastiff should get gas in spite of your best efforts,
- watch out. It is overpowering.
- h. Roam?
- Not usually. A Mastiff of either sex tends to be stay-at-home
- dog. Learning to stay within property boundaries comes
- naturally. Some individuals, however, would put Houdini to
- shame. Nevertheless, when your Mastiff is outdoors without
- supervision, as with all breeds, it's a good idea to have him
- in a secure, fenced enclosure.
- i. Shed?
- Yes, like most breeds they shed approximately twice a year.
- But, the short, sleek Mastiff coat is less objectionable,
- when it sheds, than the coats of many long-haired breeds. A
- daily brushing will prevent accumulation of hair around the
- house.
- j. Slobber?
- Most Mastiffs only drool when 1) they have just had a drink
- of water or just ate, or 2) they are extremely agitated and
- fearful, or 3) you are eating anything that smells better
- than dogfood, and you have been foolish enough to feed the
- dog some of your food at any time in the past.
- Mastiffs with tighter lips tend to drool less. Experienced
- Mastiff folks keep hand towels all around, to wipe faces
- after every drink and meal, and other times as needed. If you
- wipe the drool off immediately, it is a lot less likely to
- get slung onto the dog's face or body, your furniture, you,
- or the walls. If it makes you feel any better, 1) you get
- used to it, and 2) St. Bernard breeders say their dogs can
- hit the ceiling with their slingers, while Mastiffs tend to
- only hit about waist height on a human.
- Actually, if you are a habitual face-wiper it won't be bad at
- all, but to be realistic, "spit happens".
- k. Smell?
- Well, Mastiffs aren't bred for tracking, so they don't all
- have the best scent discrimination. Oh, you mean smell as in
- having B.O.?
- Mastiffs need occasional bathing, but since they have a short
- coat, they dry fairly fast. If a Mastiff has a bad odor
- despite regular bathing with a good dog shampoo approved by
- your breeder or vet, it may have a medical problem such as
- fungus in the ears or between the toes, or a digestive or
- dental problem, which can cause bad breath. Hypothyroid dogs
- tend to have B.O., and infected anal glands can cause a
- serious stench. Time to go to the vet to check it out.
- l. Snore?
- Yes. Ohhhh, yes. You'd better believe it!
- Actually, snoring is genetic. The reason a dog snores is due
- to a long soft palate (the back of the upper palate). This
- characteristic, like any other, is inherited. This does NOT
- mean that the dog has to have a long 'muzzle' to be a snorer!
- It just means that the upper palate has a longer soft palate.
- So you may see certain bloodlines which do not have as many
- problems with snoring and some which are horrendous snorers.
- m. Live indoors or outdoors?
- Indoors, of course. What's the sense of having a Mastiff if
- you don't have it close to you? It certainly can't protect
- you from the boogie man if it's tied out in the yard. And
- it's useless as a footstool if you keep it fastened in a
- kennel or locked in the garage.
- Seriously, Mastiffs seem to have an instinctive need and
- desire to be as close as possible to their human family, to
- the point that their emotional development can be stunted if
- they are deprived of that closeness. Many breeders will
- refuse to sell a Mastiff unless the new owner guarantees that
- it will be kept as a house dog.
- 10. _How are Mastiffs with:_
- a. Burglars, muggers and other miscreants?
- Mastiffs tend to react in predictable ways when faced with a
- threatening person. If their owner is present and a tense
- situation arises between the owner and a stranger, the dog
- will usually get between the stranger and their owner, as a
- sort of giant protective barrier that no sane mugger would
- reach over. If the stranger does anything to escalate the
- tension, the dog will probably growl or snarl at the person.
- This may occur even within a family, if, for example, the
- owners fight. This may upset the Mastiff greatly and inspire
- him to protect the party who is on the receiving end of the
- disagreement.
- If a stranger breaks into a house where there is a Mastiff,
- the Mastiff's tendency is to corner the person and not let
- them get away, holding them until their owner gets home to
- deal with the intruder. The dog may snarl or bark or even
- snap at the intruder if he tries to get away, but usually
- will not actually hurt him unless the intruder has tried to
- hurt the dog or has succeeded in hurting him.
- Dogs are creatures of habit, and it is this characteristic
- that makes them good guards. If, while your Mastiff is a
- puppy, you allow strangers like repairmen to come into your
- house when you are away, the dog will see that as normal for
- your household, and will not realize it is not "OK" for other
- strange people to come in and do things.
- Many Mastiffs, when mature, can recognize something about
- people who have unpleasant motives, and are watchful or will
- get in between you and that person. If your dog gets between
- you and a stranger in a questionable situation, trust your
- Mastiff! The dog may have sensed something you couldn't
- recognize in that person.
- Because of the intrinsic protective nature of the Mastiff,
- training as an attack or guard dog is not necessary and to do
- so may actually be detrimental to the temperament of the
- Mastiff. Mastiffs are not suitable for attack training or dog
- fighting and, if raised in kindness and socialized properly,
- will be a strong, loving companion who will defend his home
- and family if necessary.
- b. Other dogs?
- By nature a typical Mastiff is friendly and aloof toward
- other dogs. But, as with any breed, they must be properly
- socialized around other dogs from early puppyhood.
- Most cases of Dog Aggression in the Mastiff, or in any breed,
- are due to this lack of early introduction and stimuli with
- other dogs. This type of behavioral disorder is usually
- classified as Species Aggression.
- Another type of Canine Aggression is Dominance Aggression. A
- dog with dominant tendencies may seek to change its position
- in the pecking order by being aggressive toward another dog.
- This can really be a problem when there is more than one
- Dominant Aggressive dog in a multiple dog household. For this
- reason, it is best not place a dominant Mastiff in the same
- household with another dominant dog, especially of the same
- sex. While everything may seem fine while the puppy is young,
- as it matures it will seek to move up in the pack hierarchy
- and will compete for dominance with the other dog resulting
- in family turmoil.
- In most cases, proper socialization and adequate stimuli is
- the best way to head off most aggressive behavioral disorders
- before they have a chance to develop.
- If your Mastiff is aggressive, first, consult a canine
- behaviorist or professional trainer to determine if the dog
- can overcome some or all of this behavioral problem through
- retraining. ALSO have your veterinarian check for physical
- problems that can effect behavior, especially hormone
- problems such as hypothyroidism. Often spaying or neutering a
- dog aggressive dog will limit some of its tendencies to fight
- or dominate another dog, as well as cool some of the
- instinctive fighting among males and females in heat. If you
- are feeding a food that is in high in protein, try a food
- that is around 18% protein, some dogs are sensitive to excess
- levels of protein.
- If your Mastiffs do get into a fight, do NOT get between
- them. If someone else, known to the dogs, is there, each of
- you should grab a dog by the rear legs and drag them away
- from each other and separate them so that they cannot see or
- get to each other.
- c. Other animals?
- The earliest socialization, at the breeder's, and while a
- puppy is very young, influences how a particular Mastiff will
- behave with other animals. You want him to learn what YOU
- want him to accept while he is still small (this means it has
- to be done *very* young!) since a larger dog is much harder
- to control, and bad habits are harder to break than good
- habits. Some Mastiffs are born with a high prey drive and
- these dogs will need special training if a multi-pet
- household is to maintain harmony.
- A Mastiff who hasn't been exposed to cats or chickens or farm
- animals or whatever while young may treat them as prey or
- furniture, depending on the temperament of the individual
- dog. Some Mastiffs live well with cats, and recognize that
- the cats have to feel they are the bosses. Others chase cats
- without mercy even if they are wonderful dogs in every other
- way. Some dogs that were not raised around horses may sniff
- once, then ignore them, others may be afraid of them, others
- interested, etc. The point is, *you* need to plan what to
- socialize your dog to, so it will know how to behave around
- the animals that are or will be part of your household. Then
- it is not up to the highly individual reactions of a half- or
- fully-grown dog, but your choice.
- d. Strangers?
- A properly socialized Mastiff (which SHOULD be the only kind
- there is) will stand or sit beside you politely when a
- stranger is around. The world is full of people who are
- strangers to you and your dog, but who are nice, normal,
- decent folks who pose no threat. A Mastiff that is properly
- socialized (and free of severe shyness) should be polite,
- possibly aloof, but eventually friendly, after the dog sees
- your positive reaction to someone.
- e. Young children?
- They are gentle and protective, providing they have been
- raised with children and are accustomed to them. Small
- children should not be allowed to play roughly with a puppy;
- Mastiffs are a sensitive breed that can be permanently
- traumatized by rough handling.
- 11. _How long does a Mastiff live?_
- Books on the breed describe the average Mastiff life span as 6-10
- years. A few have lived to be 13 or 14; a tiny handful have lived
- to be 16-17. Assuming no accidents, an individual dog's life span
- will depend on its bloodlines, weight, and freedom from
- significant problems such as blindness, heart disease, hip or
- elbow dysplasia, spondylosis, immune disorders, etc. (see
- Questions 16, 17 and Appendix F for more information on health
- problems). Sadly, there has been an increase in the death of
- middle aged and younger Mastiffs in the past 10 years or so,
- although this is not specific to Mastiffs but applies to most
- breeds.
- The increase in hereditary problems in all breeds has had the
- effect of shortening the lives of a number of animals in each
- breed, thus bringing down the averages. This is why we emphasize
- testing for health problems and breeding animals ONLY after they
- have been proven to be free of evidence of significant hereditary
- diseases. Choosing your breeder carefully, for awareness of
- problems and for evidence of specific actions taken consistently
- over a period of time to prevent these problems, will greatly
- increase your chances of getting a healthy dog with the potential
- to live to a ripe old age.
- 12. _Can I get a white Mastiff? What colors can I get?_
- No, Mastiffs come in Apricot, Brindle, and various shades of Fawn.
- Since one of the faults listed in the breed standard is "excessive
- white on the chest or white on any other part of the body", then a
- Mastiff with much white on it at all is *not* correctly marked
- according to the breed standard. There are breeds for which white
- is a correct, acceptable color, but the Mastiff is not one of
- them.
- 13. _Male vs. female, which is friendlier? more protective? easier to
- train?_
- These are all traits that tend to vary more between individual
- animals than between the sexes. A healthy, alert, intelligent dog
- who did well on the Puppy Aptitude test and has been well
- socialized and trained from Puppy Kindergarten onward is your best
- chance at getting all the above characteristics. Socializing a dog
- who started out with a good temperament gives you the friendliest
- dog. A dog is protective when it has bonded well with you
- (training your dog is an outstanding way to bond with it) and has
- at least begun to mature. If you start training very young the dog
- learns how to *learn* and will enjoy it more and perform better.
- 14. _Is there anything special I should know about raising a Mastiff
- puppy - isn't it the same as any other breed?_
- Due to their rapid growth and their eventual giant size and
- weight, there are special precautions that should be taken with
- growing Mastiff puppies. See Appendix H for details.
- 15. _How much training does a Mastiff need?_
- Because they are destined to be VERY large dogs, basic obedience
- training should be a part of every Mastiff's upbringing.
- Adequate socialization is an extremely important part of a puppy's
- training. An unsocialized dog, of any breed, can become either
- fearful or aggressive. A well socialized Mastiff is a stable
- Mastiff.
- Most Mastiffs are easy to train because they are so eager to
- please, but they are generally more easily trained when young. A
- puppy's brain develops very rapidly. New information is absorbed
- at an astonishing rate as they learn from their environment. You
- want to make certain that WHAT they learn is desirable; therefore,
- you must guide them in their learning process. Also, just as inany
- other breed, some individuals are stubborn, dominant, etc., and in
- such cases the behavior pattern should be identified early and the
- training adjusted appropriately to compensate for it.
- Unless you plan to compete in conformation or obedience, basic
- obedience is all your puppy really needs to become a valued family
- companion. Basic obedience consists of: sit, down, stay, come,
- walk on lead and proper socialization.
- To find Obedience and Socialization classes, contact your local
- Kennel Clubs and veterinarians. If you cannot locate classes, take
- your puppy out often to places where it can meet people and other
- dogs in a friendly atmosphere.
- A Mastiff does not need protection training. A well socialized
- Mastiff has, in essence, been taught what a normal situation is
- and will be able to sense when something is wrong. Even the
- gentlest Mastiff will protect its family if it is well socialized
- and bonded to them.
- 16. _Do Mastiffs have any genetic health problems?_
- Mastiffs are probably about average when it comes to the number of
- hereditary health problems that they are prone to. Being a large
- breed they are very prone to joint problems. For more information
- on genetic problems, please refer to Appendix F.
- + Potentially life threatening or serious:
- (*these conditions may be inherited or in some cases
- acquired)
- o Joint: hip dysplasia; elbow dysplasia (ununited anconeal
- process, fragmented coronoid process, degenerative joint
- disease); osteochondritis dissecans (OCD) of the
- shoulders, knees, elbows or hocks.
- o Eye problems that cause blindness: cataracts*, retinal
- dysplasia with detachment, glaucoma., progressive
- retinal atrophy (PRA)
- o Other inherited eye problems: geographic retinal
- dysplasia, PPM, entropion.
- o Hypothyroidism*, immune deficiencies.
- o Wobblers syndrome.
- o Skin: demodectic mange, deep pyoderma.
- o Nervous system: myasthenia gravis*, muscular dystrophy*,
- epilepsy*
- o Other: cardiomyopathy*, leukemia.
- + Less serious and/or less common:
- (*these conditions may be inherited or in some cases
- acquired)
- o Eye problems: ectropion, iris cysts, macroblapharon
- (haw), corneal dystrophy*, distichiasis, cherry eye, dry
- eye, retinal folds.
- o Skin: allergies
- o Joint problems: HOD (hypertrophic Osteo Dystrophy),
- degenerative joint disease*, arthritis*, spondylosis of
- the spine.
- o Reproductive: cryptorchid, monorchid, vaginal
- hyperplasia.
- o Heart: murmurs*, pulmonic stenosis.
- o Other: hernias, von Willebrands Disease (vWD).
- 17. _What are the common non-genetic health problems in Mastiffs?_
- Mastiffs are subject to the same common diseases and afflictions
- as every other breed of dog. Some of the more prevalent are:
- + Joint and bone: cruciate ligament rupture, panosteitis, elbow
- hygroma.
- + Urinary tract: kidney and bladder infections, bladder stones.
- + Ear infections, hot spots, cysts and tumors.
- + Reproductive: uterine inertia, pyometra, other uterine
- infections, mastitis, breast cancer.
- + Cancer (bone, bowel, brain, spine, etc. Some forms of cancer
- are inherited, most aren't).
- + Other: gastric torsion (bloat), pica (eating rocks, socks,
- etc.)
- 18. _What other problems do Mastiffs have?_
- + Temperament:
- o Aggressive
- o Fearful (inherited or lack of socialization).
- o Shy
- + Structural faults:
- o Limbs: weak pasterns, cow-hocks, straight shoulders,
- stifles and/or hocks, elbows in or out instead of
- parallel
- o Bite: very undershot, overshot, crooked teeth, wry
- (twisted) jaw
- o Tail: abnormally short, kinked, bob tail
- o Feet: flat (hare foot), loose toes, turned toes or feet
- o Coat: long hair, no under coat, excessive white markings
- (piebald)
- o Movement: paddling, crossing, sidewinding, overreaching,
- lack of drive.
- + Problems caused by their size:
- o Expensive and difficult to take on an airplane once
- mature
- o Navigating steep stairs
- o Getting into small cars
- o Happy Tail (Crate Tail) syndrome - prone to abrasions
- (often accompanied by considerable blood splattering)
- from wagging against things.
- 19. _What kind of a temperament does a Mastiff have?_
- Mastiffs are called gentle giants because of their benign and
- benevolent character. A Mastiff's temperament is so much a part of
- how it needs to be raised and cared for that many of the questions
- in this FAQ have incorporated one aspect or another of the Mastiff
- temperament in their answers.
- A dog this big has no NEED to growl or make menacing noises or
- faces to impress a would-be burglar or mugger. Instead, it can and
- does simply relax, but keeps an eye on situations where its human
- family could possibly be in danger of any kind.
- Mastiffs have a somewhat contradictory nature, they are very
- sensitive to the reactions of their people, most Mastiffs can be
- absolutely crushed by harsh words. Yet Mastiffs can also be among
- the most stubborn of dogs, so stubborn that you may find it to be
- an immense challenge to get them to do the same thing over and
- over for an obedience class (the Mastiff probably would rather do
- it once and then take a nap or do something different).
- Mastiffs, like people, are highly individual. Some are placid,
- some are high energy animals who need to be kept busy. A lot of
- any Mastiff's behavior depends on how well it was socialized while
- young.
- 20. _What does a Mastiff eat?_
- A Mastiff will eat anything that is not nailed down! Mastiffs,
- being a giant breed, have the capability of chewing on things that
- most small breeds can't even get in their mouths.
- Oh, you meant food, huh? OK, Mastiffs do best on a food that is in
- the medium range for protein (20-25%), mid range for fat (12-18%)
- and is well balanced for calcium and phosphorus and high in iodine
- (3-5%). Feeding your Mastiff puppy foods high in protein, calories
- and fat will push the growth rate and possibly cause joint,
- ligament and tendon problems. It is best to grow your puppy at a
- slow, steady rate and not try to make him big too soon. Remember,
- the Mastiff will grow to what he was genetically programmed to be
- no matter how fast or slow that you get him there. It is best to
- take your time and grow them out slowly so as to minimize joint
- and bone problems and thus have a sound, healthy dog. If the dog
- food you intend to use is balanced for nutrition do not add
- supplemental calcium to the diet. Too much calcium causes more
- problems than too little!
- The amount of food is a judgment call, depending on the type of
- food you are feeding, the age of the Mastiff, and the body
- condition such as too fat, too thin or just right. Feed a good
- quality premium food, following the recommendations on the bag and
- adjusting the amount according to body condition. Do not let your
- Mastiff puppy or young adult get fat and make sure that you can
- feel the ribs or at least see the last two ribs when the dog is
- moving. Fat dogs have many problems with bones and joints, heart,
- liver, kidney, etc. Generally Mastiff puppies eat a lot of food
- while growing, until at least the age of two. An adult Mastiff
- generally has a slow metabolism and does not eat an exceptional
- amount of food, normally about the same as a German Shepherd or
- dog of similar or even smaller size.
- 21. _What kind of living quarters does a Mastiff require? How about
- crating? Where do they sleep?_
- The standard answer to this question: Anywhere they want to!
- Mastiffs consider themselves to be part of your family, and will
- be most content if they are able to share your home with you. Many
- Mastiff breeders feel so strongly about the Mastiff's need tobe
- with their human family that they will only sell a puppy to people
- who guarantee that it will live in the house with them.
- Within your home, Mastiffs need a place of their own where they
- will feel comfortable and secure, just like any other dog. Crates
- are a practical solution, especially for puppy house training and
- safety. Wire crates are best so that the pup can see out and
- because they are harder to chew or destroy. Purchase the largest
- one you can afford so your Mastiff can grow into it. A pallet by
- your bed is also a good idea since Mastiffs want to be with their
- families and it is generally not a good idea to let them sleep on
- the bed with you. Sleeping with you puts them on the same level as
- you, so you may wind up with a dominance problem; and jumping off
- of a bed is not good for the joints when they are young. Most
- Mastiffs will wind up forgoing any wonderful bed you make for them
- and will want to sleep on the tile or linoleum floor because it is
- cooler. Caution is advised here because Mastiffs tend to clunk
- down on their elbows when lying down and many develop elbow
- hygromas from the constant banging on the elbows.
- The best beds are soft pads with blankets over them or even a baby
- bed mattress with a cover. Don't be surprised if your youngster
- shreds his bed as this seems to be great fun to most puppies - be
- sure to remove any pieces because they can be dangerous if
- swallowed.
- 22. _Does owning a Mastiff:_
- a. Cost a lot?
- A Mastiff costs more to maintain than smaller breeds due to
- its large size and weight. Larger crates cost more. More and
- larger consumables are needed - food, toys and the like. Many
- medicines, such as antibiotics, heartworm preventative and
- anesthesia are prescribed based on weight, so these cost
- more. A Mastiff on a 'chewing binge' can cause much more
- damage in a shorter time than smaller breeds.
- b. Require a lot of work?
- Compared to what? Mastiffs, due to their tendency to be inert
- (like couch potatoes), and their short hair, do not require
- as much work as a breed that needs to run a lot for exercise,
- or needs daily brushing to keep a fluffy coat from getting
- matted.
- A Mastiff with a correct coat only needs a bath when it
- begins to smell "doggy" or if it has gotten into something
- that needs to be washed off. Bathing a Mastiff is sort of
- like washing a hairy Volkswagen except that the VW won't
- shake and drench you in shampoo or rinse water.
- Mastiffs need MODERATE exercise (if this much is too much for
- you, consider an older Rescue dog), a quality food with
- moderate protein and fat content, and the normal maintenance
- activities that any breed requires: clipping toenails,
- keeping teeth clean, ear cleaning, and regular vet checkups
- and vaccinations.
- The size of a Mastiff means that those toenails will be big
- and thick, harder to cut than those on a smaller dog. And
- they will eat a lot more food than your neighbor's poodle.
- Mastiffs tend to shed twice a year like most breeds, but when
- a huge dog sheds lightly, it can still add up to a lot of
- hair to vacuum.
- If you are grossed out by slingers and goobers, please be
- advised that if you own a Mastiff you might spend the rest of
- the dog's life wiping the walls and complaining about the
- mess. If you CAN handle it, you will learn tricks like wiping
- the dog's face as soon as it has finished drinking (to catch
- the slingers before they are slung).
- 23. _Are you trying to talk me out of getting a Mastiff?_
- No and yes. No, because it would be wonderful if everyone could
- experience the joy and satisfaction of being owned by one of these
- gentle giants. Yes, because, as great and wonderful as they are,
- they have idiosyncrasies and problems particular to the breed. It
- would be much, much, much better if you found out that a Mastiff
- wasn't the breed for you NOW instead of after you've already
- gotten one.
- Mastiffs are not the right breed for everyone. Mastiffs are giants
- and take up a lot of space on the couch and in the house and car.
- They have powerful tails that can clean off a coffee table in one
- fell swoop or knock a small child down with one wag. And the smack
- of a tail is like being tortured with a rubber hose! Most
- Mastiff's drool and slobber, especially after eating and drinking.
- Many leave water trails all over the house after a drink and
- prefer to wipe their faces on their owners. Mastiffs like to be
- close to their family and will sit on your feet, lean against you,
- often put their paw on you and lay their heavy head in your lap.
- Occasionally people can be unintentionally injured by an exuberant
- Mastiff. Mastiffs like to follow you where ever you go and be part
- of whatever you do. They can block doorways with their huge
- bodies, stand in front of the TV and block your view, and take up
- large amounts of space with their crates and toys. If you can't
- handle any of the above, then a Mastiff is not the dog for you!
- Not recommended for:
- + Old, elderly, infirm - Mastiffs can accidentally knock down
- someone who is not steady on their feet; can aggravate back
- and other injuries; and, since they have the strength of a
- Rhino, can do unintended harm unless properly trained. If you
- just have to have one, an older, already trained Mastiff is
- recommended. See Appendix D for information about Mastiff
- Rescue, the best place to start looking for an older, trained
- Mastiff.
- + Small children - Children under about 6 can be knocked down
- by an exuberant puppy or adult. Mastiffs are, however,
- generally gentle with children of any age, but, you MUST
- supervise them when they are together so that neither the
- child nor the dog is injured.
- + Small habitats - Mastiffs are not recommended for small
- apartments or tiny houses since they tend to grow so large.
- Too many Mastiffs end up in shelters or with Rescue because
- their owners didn't take their eventual size into
- consideration. The ideal environment is one with a
- comfortable house, access to a fenced yard for potty breaks,
- where the owner knows exactly what they are getting in
- advance.
- + Guard dog - Mastiffs possess the natural ability to defend
- their family should the need arise. They should know the
- difference between friend and foe and pick up on the emotions
- of their owners. Mastiffs are not recommended as a guard dog
- for businesses or junkyards because of their instinctual need
- to bond with people and because they are so strong that they
- may overdo the guarding and hurt the wrong person. The
- Mastiff temperament is not suited for formal "guard dog"
- training due to their sensitive nature and because to do so
- may permanently ruin their temperament.
- + Neat Freaks - Do not get a Mastiff if you are a person who
- must have a clean house at all times, can't stand dog hair on
- everything, or does not like the furniture being rearranged
- when a Mastiff decides that he wants to sleep behind the
- couch or under the table. Try to match your decor to the
- color of the dog hair and slobber.
- + Workaholics - If you work long hours and someone isn't home
- often, you may want to rethink getting a Mastiff. Mastiffs
- like people and do not like being left alone all day in a
- crate or back yard. They bore easily and will find ways to
- entertain themselves while you are away. A bored, lonesome
- Mastiff may destroy things or turn their boredom on
- themselves causing such things as having to replace furniture
- (or walls), or requiring treatment for lick granulomas. If
- your home is frequently empty except for your dog, please
- reconsider getting a Mastiff and may we suggest a toy breed
- where you could have two to keep each other company or
- perhaps a cat, bird or reptile.
- + Those on a tight budget - Mastiffs are giants and therefore
- the cost of upkeep is high. Everything you need to maintain
- one is expensive from the bedding, the collars, the food
- bowls, the food, to the vet bills. If you are on a tight
- budget or do not enjoy spending money on your dog, please
- reconsider getting this breed. The initial purchase price of
- the pup will be the least expensive part of owning a Mastiff.
- 24. _Where should I get a Mastiff?_
- + Middleman who buys puppies from breeders and resells them?
- NO!
- + Pet Shop?
- NO!
- + Backyard breeder?
- NO!
- + Reputable breeder?
- YES!
- The best way to get a healthy, happy, quality Mastiff puppy,
- is to buy directly from a breeder. Reputable breeders put the
- welfare of their dogs and the improvement of the breed above
- their desire for financial gain. Reputable breeders will take
- back or replace a puppy who is found to have a congenital
- defect. Breeders who are members of the Mastiff Club Of
- America have agreed to abide by a Code of Ethics (see
- Appendix C). A Breeder Referral list is available from the
- MCOA, see Appendix I.1 for details.
- + Mastiff Rescue?
- YES!
- Unfortunately, usually through no fault of their own, a
- number of Mastiffs end up homeless every year. The MCOA's
- Rescue Service is charged with helping these distressed
- Mastiff's find new homes. See Appendix D for more
- information.
- 25. _Where can I get more information about Mastiffs?_
- See Appendix E for Mastiff information sources and Appendix I for
- Mastiff Clubs and contacts.
- 26. _How do I pick a Mastiff puppy?_
- After you have chosen your breeder and your puppy's sire and dam,
- you're ready to choose your Mastiff puppy. But which one? The most
- important aspect of this choice is temperament. Puppies'
- temperament's vary even within the same litter.
- Many people will choose the first puppy that runs up to them and
- pulls at their pant leg because they think this must be a more
- outgoing puppy. Not every Mastiff is for every family and this
- puppy may not necessarily be THE puppy for your family. So how DO
- you choose a puppy?. You should choose a Mastiff puppy that has a
- temperament that compliments your family's.
- Ideally your puppy's breeder will use Puppy Aptitude Testing and
- family profiles to match puppies with their new owners. Puppy
- Aptitude Testing evaluates the individual temperament of each
- puppy. A family profile consists of a series of questions which
- allows the breeder to assess your family's situation and
- disposition. The breeder may even ask to choose a puppy for you.
- If the breeder is skilled in Puppy Aptitude Testing, they can
- generally choose the best puppy for your family. If the breeder
- does not perform these tests, you will need to know how to choose
- the right puppy yourself.
- First, look at your family's situation: Do you have small
- children? Do you have elderly in your household? Is your family
- quiet or of gentle nature? Do you already have another dog? Do you
- feel guilty when disciplining your children or current dog?
- If you have answered "yes" to any of these questions you may
- prefer a puppy with a more subordinate temperament. A dog with
- dominant tendencies would not fit into this particular family
- situation. Dogs are pack animals and they will try to establish a
- pecking order within their pack, and your family will be their new
- pack.
- Subordinate (submissive) does not mean shy or timid. A puppy with
- a subordinate temperament will simply be closer to the bottom of
- the dominance ladder (pecking order). A subordinate puppy will not
- try to dominate the small children within your household, nor will
- it be as apt to challenge your authority or to compete with
- another dog for dominance. Note: Timidity (shyness) is a genetic
- fault in Mastiffs.
- If you already have a dog: Is it submissive or dominant? What is
- its size? Is it male or female? With another dog already in the
- family, especially a dominant one, consider a Mastiff puppy with a
- more submissive temperament and/or one of the opposite sex. A
- submissive puppy will be less likely to challenge your existing
- dog for pecking order. Males seldom compete with females for
- leadership position. Smaller dogs can be easily injured if they
- are involved in disputes with a Mastiff.
- Are you experienced with large breeds? Do you NOT have small
- children nor elderly within your home? Are you comfortable
- offering constructive criticism? Have you had any dog training
- experience of any kind? Is your current dog a larger breed of
- submissive nature? Do you have the time and are you planning to
- train this puppy in either Obedience, Conformation, or for Canine
- Good Citizenship? Is your family active and outgoing?
- If you have answered "yes" to all of these questions you may wish
- to consider a puppy with more dominant tendencies. Dominant does
- not mean aggressive. A Mastiff with dominant tendencies is one
- which would compete for its place higher up on the dominance
- ladder. It will be more apt to challenge a child or another dog.
- There is a difference between a dog with dominant tendencies and a
- true Alpha dog. An Alpha dog, of any breed, may even try to
- challenge YOUR authority. It is never a good idea to place a
- dominant puppy into a home with another dominant dog, especially
- of the same sex. Properly reared dogs with dominant tendencies can
- be wonderful, loving family companions.
- 27. _What questions should I ask the breeder (and what answers should
- I get)?_
- Before talking to a breeder, before you even start looking for a
- puppy, DO YOUR HOMEWORK FIRST! Read this FAQ. Check out the books
- and Internet resources listed in the Appendices. Read the FAQs on
- 'Selecting a Dog', 'Getting a Dog', 'Your New Puppy', 'Your New
- Dog', 'Health Care Issues' and other subjects (these can be found
- at http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/. Go to the library.
- Read, read, read. Ask veterinarians what they see frequently and
- what to be aware of. Go to some dog shows and talk to the
- exhibitors. It is vital to have knowledge BEFORE you get or even
- start looking for a puppy. Forewarned is forearmed.
- This may seem like a lot of research, but you are undertaking a
- long term commitment that may last 8, 10 or even more years -
- longer than a new car, often longer than a house, or even, these
- days, longer than a spouse! A Mastiff will quickly become a major
- factor in your day to day existence, with significant influence on
- your lifestyle. It is up to you to do everything you can ahead of
- time to ensure that this influence will be a positive one.
- A hastily or poorly chosen Mastiff can make your life miserable,
- and, if subject to health problems, can cause a significant drain
- on your financial resources.
- Appendix G contains a list of questions that you should ask the
- breeder of a Mastiff puppy that you are contemplating acquiring.
- The 'Getting a Dog FAQ' at
- http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/also contains more general
- questions to ask a breeder.
- 28. _What kind of toys and other paraphernalia do I need for my
- Mastiff?_
- + TOYS
- Mastiffs are big, strong puppies and even bigger, stronger
- adults, with a biting capacity of estimated at over 300 psi.
- Keeping that in mind, most toys and chewies for your Mastiff
- will have to be durable and able to withstand major abuse.
- Many toys are suitable for youngsters but not for adults and
- you will have to add to the toy box as your Mastiff grows
- older and stronger. When first introducing a new toy it is a
- good idea to supervise your Mastiff to see how they handle
- it. If they rip the toy to shreds and start swallowing lots
- of it - take it away and try a different toy. Each dog is an
- individual and what is good for one is not necessarily good
- for another.
- Some good toys to start out with are:
- Puppies - Nylabones, Kongs, Vermont Chews (stuffed),
- compressed rawhide bones (not shredded and pressed together,
- but whole pieces rolled up and compressed under thousands of
- pounds of steam), carefully selected children's stuffed
- animals, plastic soda bottles with the cap and cap ring
- removed (discard if the pup starts to tear apart), knotted
- rope bones (discard when shredded), large rope rings, soccer
- and basketballs, various dental chews, hard plastic or pvc
- balls, safe squeaky toys (human children's are the safest and
- least toxic), raw or sterilized beef bones, raw fruit and
- vegetables (No onion!), empty cardboard boxes (remove all
- staples, loose packing and labels), empty toilet paper and
- paper towel tubes (pups will empty them for you!) and cow
- ears. Puppies also enjoy shredding newspaper but it is messy
- and they can get black ink on themselves. It's not toxic
- though and it won't hurt them, unless they eat to much!
- Adult (over 6 months) - Same as above but delete the squeaky
- toys and plastic balls. Add old lawn mower tires, large
- knotted rope bones, huge nylabones and dental chews, big beef
- bones (knuckle, femur, etc.), larger fruit and vegetables
- (edible, biodegradable toys!), giant Kongs, large cardboard
- boxes (messy, but so much fun).
- There isn't a toy made that a Mastiff cannot destroy so
- please be careful in your selection and keep an eye on them.
- If any of the toys you have selected become badly chewed,
- shredded or have chunks missing, discard them and get
- something else. Each Mastiff is a little different in how it
- deals with each object. Some will lay down and eat a whole
- bone whereas others will occasionally gnaw on it and have it
- last a long time. Some will ignore toys that others covet.
- Try various things and see what your dog likes. Remember,
- anything can be dangerous if not used properly and can cause
- problems for your Mastiff. The best advice is to know your
- dog and watch it with new toys until you are certain that the
- toys won't be eaten (except for fruit & veggies) or destroyed
- in one sitting! Have fun and be creative!
- + FOOD and WATER DISHES
- Stainless steel is suggested for several reasons. It is
- basically indestructible and is easy to sterilize and
- dishwasher safe. Buy the largest one you can find for a water
- bowl and at least a 5 qt. size for the food.
- + COLLARS and LEASHES
- Up until about 6 months old, most collars will work just fine
- including the adjustable ones with a plastic snap. After 6
- months it is best to use a buckle type collar made of either
- wide nylon or leather. A six foot lead is recommended for
- training and a shorter leash for going on walks. You can use
- either nylon or leather, just be sure it has a strong snap!
- For formal training, like at an obedience class, you will
- need a "choke" chain, usually made with metal links. Your
- instructor will advise you of the correct size and how to put
- it on the pup and how to use it properly. Remember: NEVER
- leave a dog, puppy or adult, unattended with a choke collar
- on as they can easily get it caught on something, even in a
- crate, and strangle themselves!
- One company that publishes a catalog specifically for big dog
- items is Big Dog Basics & Pyraphernalia at
- http://www.gcnet.com/bigdogs/ (316) 276-8665
- The 'Resources FAQ' at http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/has
- an extensive list of dog supply catalogs, magazines, and
- organizations. In it you can find listing for things such as
- weight pulling harnesses, backpacking necessities and everything
- else imaginable for your Mastiff.
- 29. _Is that a Mastiff in:_
- + Beethoven? No, a St. Bernard.
-
- + Cybil? Yes.
-
- + Howard Huge? No, a St. Bernard(?).
-
- + Marmaduke? No, a Great Dane.
-
- + Sandlot? Yes.
-
- + The Secret Garden? Yes.
-
- + That's My Dog? Yes.
-
- + The Truth About Dogs? No, a ???.
-
- + Turner and Hooch? No, a Dogue de Borduex (French Mastiff).
-
- + Meet Wally Sparks? Yes.
-
- 30. _What's the difference between a Mastiff and a Bullmastiff?_
- The Mastiff is an ancient British breed and its history can be
- traced back over 2,000 years. The Bullmastiff is a relatively
- recent breed developed from crossing Mastiff (60%) and Bulldog
- (40%) stock. The Bullmastiff's shorter, more compact, more
- muscular look; shorter muzzle; higher energy level and greater
- stubbornness are derived from the Bulldog part of the
- Bullmastiff's ancestry.
- The most noticeable differences are temperament, the conformation
- of the heads and overall size of the dogs.
- Mastiffs have a mellower, more relaxed temperament, compared to
- the pushier, more active temperament of the typical Bullmastiff.
- The Mastiff's forehead should be slightly curved and the stop
- (indentation between the eyes) well marked but not too abrupt
- while the Bullmastiff's forehead should be flat and the stop
- moderate.
- Mastiff males should be at least 30" at the shoulder and females
- 27 1/2" at the shoulder, with no upper limit for height.
- Bullmastiff males should be between 25-27" at the shoulder and
- females 24-26" at the shoulder.
- Weight ranges differ significantly between the breeds, with the
- Bullmastiff being smaller as well as more compact. The Bullmastiff
- Standard lists 110-130 pounds for males, 100-120 pounds for
- females. While the Mastiff Standard specifies no weight ranges,
- males weights usually run 160 pounds and up, females 120 pounds
- and up.
-
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- III. APPENDICES
-
- A. _History of the Mastiff_
- There is evidence of Mastiff-like giant dogs dating back as far as
- 2500 BC in the mountains of Asia. Bas-reliefs from the Babylonian
- palace of Ashurbanipal (now on display in the British Museum)
- depict Mastiff-type dogs hunting lions in the desert near the
- Tigris River. Their coloration, of course, cannot be told, but
- other than being taller and leaner than current-day Mastiffs (as
- ours would be if raised in a desert and fed lightly), they are
- remarkably like our modern Mastiffs, despite the passing of nearly
- 4500 years.
- After this clear visual evidence, we must rely on folklore and
- oral history. Phoenician traders are believed to have introduced
- the Mastiff to ancient Britain, where the Romans found them and
- brought them back to fight in the arena.
- Marco Polo wrote of Kubla Khan, who kept a kennel of 5,000
- Mastiffs used for hunting and war.
- When Hannibal, the great Roman leader, crossed the Alps, he took
- with him several battalions of trained war mastiffs, who, during
- their long travels, "fraternized" with local breeds to produce
- what became the St. Bernard, once called the Alpine Mastiff, as
- well as other giant breeds.
- All of the massive mountain dogs of Spain, France, Turkey, and the
- Balkans can trace their size back to Mastiff blood in their
- ancestry. Even the Chow Chow carries Mastiff blood, as does the
- Pug, which was originally a form of dwarf Mastiff.
- Theories advanced by various authors have focused on one or more
- of the above to try to identify the *origin* of the breed. What
- should matter the most to us is what the breed is like now, and
- how it came to be that way. Despite the differences of opinion on
- where the Mastiff originated, most agree that the British are the
- creators of the breed as we know it today.
- Of all the countries who used the Mastiff, it was the British who
- kept him in his purest form, and it is to them that we owe the
- Mastiff of today. They kept Mastiffs to guard their castles and
- estates, releasing them at night to ward off intruders. Henry VIII
- is said to have presented Charles V of Spain a gift of 400
- Mastiffs to be used in battle.
- The Legh family of Lyme Hall, Cheshire, who were given their
- estate by Richard II (1377-1399), kept and bred Mastiffs for many
- generations. Stowe's Annual, a reference book, shows that King
- James I (1603-1625) sent a gift of two Lyme Hall mastiffs to
- Phillip II of Spain. These, or their immediate descendants, are
- certainly the Mastiff-type dogs shown in famous portraits of the
- Spanish royal children.
- Other sources indicate that Mastiffs were used as war dogs by the
- ancient Celts, and accompanied their masters into battle. When the
- Romans invaded Britain, they took the dogs back to Italy and used
- them to guard property and prisoners, as well as using them to
- fight in the arena.
- The Mastiff was one of the few breeds mentioned by name in The
- Forest Laws of King Canute, the first written laws of England.
- There, Mastiffs were required to be checked by the tax collector,
- who would make sure the middle toes of each front foot were
- removed so the dog could not run fast enough to catch the deer
- (which traditionally belonged to royalty). Tax collectors have not
- evolved much over the centuries; the penalties for failing to meet
- their requirements were extreme. In the Forest Laws, Mastiffs were
- mentioned specifically as being kept for protection.
- In the Elizabethan Era, the Mastiff was used to fight wild animals
- (e.g., bears, tigers, etc.), usually for the entertainment of the
- Queen. After the cessation of this cruel sport, Mastiffs continued
- to be bred by the Dukes of Devonshire and Sutherland, the Earl of
- Harrington, and other nobles.
- According to the scanty records of the Pilgrim Fathers, two dogs,
- a Mastiff and a spaniel, accompanied the Plymouth colonists aboard
- the Mayflower on their journey to the new world.
- In England, dog showing became popular in the mid-1800s. Wealthy
- people kept and bred Mastiffs and started the first recorded
- pedigrees. These were registered with what was then the only
- kennel club in the world, The Kennel Club in England.
- During the World Wars, Mastiffs were used to pull munitions carts
- on the fronts. In America, they were frequently found on
- plantations as property guards.
- The size of the Mastiff and its need to eat about as much food per
- day as an adult human made a Mastiff too costly for most common
- folk to keep, except perhaps for butchers. In England they were
- sometimes called "the Butcher's Dog" because a butcher had enough
- meat scraps to feed a Mastiff well, and could therefore afford to
- keep one, even though he was not wealthy.
- Mastiffs began to decline in popularity until the late 1800's,
- when interest revived briefly, and Mastiffs started to be imported
- into America. World War I saw their decline again in England, and
- by the 1920's they were almost extinct in that country in their
- pure form. It was considered unpatriotic to keep dogs alive who
- ate as much in a day as a soldier; entire huge kennels were put
- down as a result.
- World War II all but finished the breed in England. At the end of
- the war, fresh blood was imported from Canada and the United
- States to revive the breed. Now, fortunately, Mastiffs are well
- established again, the United States having perhaps the greatest
- number.
- Breeders today have bred the Mastiff for gentleness and have
- created an excellent companion, large enough to deter intruders
- and yet gentle enough to be dependable around children.
- B. _MCOA / AKC Mastiff Conformation Standard_
- _OFFICIAL STANDARD FOR THE MASTIFF_
- _General Appearance_
- The Mastiff is a large, massive, symmetrical dog with a well-knit
- frame. The impression is one of grandeur and dignity. Dogs are
- more massive throughout. Bitches should not be faulted for being
- somewhat smaller in all dimensions while maintaining a
- proportionally powerful structure. A good evaluation considers
- positive qualities of type and soundness with equal weight.
- _Size, Proportion, Substance_
- _Size_ - Dogs, minimum, 30 inches at the shoulder. Bitches,
- minimum, 27-1/2 inches at the shoulder. _Fault_-Dogs or bitches
- below the minimum standard. The farther below standard, the
- greater the fault.
- _Proportion_ - Rectangular, the length of the dog from forechest
- to rump is somewhat longer than the height at the withers. The
- height of the dog should come from depth of body rather than from
- length of leg.
- _Substance_ - Massive, heavy boned, with a powerful muscle
- structure. Great depth and breadth desirable. _Fault_-Lack of
- substance or slab sided.
- _Head_
- In general outline giving a massive appearance when viewed from
- any angle. Breadth greatly desired.
- _Eyes_ - set wide apart, medium in size, never too prominent.
- Expression alert but kindly. Color of eyes brown, the darker the
- better, and showing no haw. Light eyes or a predatory expression
- is undesirable.
- _Ears_ - small in proportion to the skull, V-shaped, rounded at
- the tips. Leather moderately thin, set widely apart at the highest
- points on the sides of the skull continuing the outline across the
- summit. They should lie close to the cheeks when in repose. Ears
- dark in color, the blacker the better, conforming to the color of
- the muzzle.
- _Skull_ - broad and somewhat flattened between the ears, forehead
- slightly curved, showing marked wrinkles which are particularly
- distinctive when at attention. Brows (superciliary ridges)
- moderately raised. Muscles of the temples well developed, those of
- the cheeks extremely powerful. Arch across the skull a flattened
- curve with a furrow up the center of the forehead. This extends
- from between the eyes to halfway up the skull. The stop between
- the eyes well marked but not too abrupt. Muzzle should be half the
- length of the skull, thus dividing the head into three parts-one
- for the foreface and two for the skull. In other words, the
- distance from the tip of the nose to stop is equal to one-half the
- distance between the stop and the occiput. Circumference of the
- muzzle (measured midway between the eyes and nose) to that of the
- head (measured before the ears) is as 3 is to 5.
- _Muzzle_ - short, broad under the eyes and running nearly equal in
- width to the end of the nose. Truncated, i.e. blunt and cut off
- square, thus forming a right angle with the upper line of the
- face. Of great depth from the point of the nose to the underjaw.
- Underjaw broad to the end and slightly rounded. Muzzle dark in
- color, the blacker the better. _Fault_-snipiness of the muzzle.
- _Nose_ - broad and always dark in color, the blacker the better,
- with spread flat nostrils (not pointed or turned up) in profile.
- _Lips_ - diverging at obtuse angles with the septum and
- sufficiently pendulous so as to show a modified square profile.
- _Canine Teeth_ - healthy and wide apart. Jaws powerful. Scissors
- bite preferred, but a moderately undershot jaw should not be
- faulted providing the teeth are not visible when the mouth is
- closed.
- _Neck, Topline, Body_
- _Neck_ - powerful, very muscular, slightly arched, and of medium
- length. The neck gradually increases in circumference as it
- approaches the shoulder. Neck moderately "dry" (not showing an
- excess of loose skin).
- _Topline_ -In profile the topline should be straight, level, and
- firm, not swaybacked, roached, or dropping off sharply behind the
- high point of the rump.
- _Chest_ - wide, deep, rounded, and well let down between the
- forelegs, extending at least to the elbow. Forechest should be
- deep and well defined with the breastbone extending in front of
- the foremost point of the shoulders. Ribs well rounded. False ribs
- deep and well set back.
- _Underline_ - There should be a reasonable, but not exaggerated,
- tuck-up.
- _Back_ - muscular, powerful, and straight. When viewed from the
- rear, there should be a slight rounding over the rump.
- _Loins_ - wide and muscular.
- _Tail_ - set on moderately high and reaching to the hocks or a
- little below. Wide at the root, tapering to the end, hanging
- straight in repose, forming a slight curve, but never over the
- back when the dog is in motion.
- _Forequarters_
- _Shoulders_ - moderately sloping, powerful and muscular, with no
- tendency to looseness. Degree of front angulation to match correct
- rear angulation.
- _Legs_ - straight, strong and set wide apart, heavy boned.
- _Elbows_ - parallel to body.
- _Pasterns_ - strong and bent only slightly.
- _Feet_ - large, round, and compact with well arched toes. Black
- nails.
- _Hindquarters_
- _Hindquarters_ - broad, wide and muscular.
- _Second thighs_ - well developed, leading to a strong hock joint.
- _Stifle joint_ - is moderately angulated matching the front.
- _Rear legs_ - are wide apart and parallel when viewed from the
- rear. When the portion of the leg below the hock is correctly "set
- back" and stands perpendicular to the ground, a plumb line dropped
- from the rearmost point of the hindquarters will pass in front of
- the foot. This rules out straight hocks, and since stifle
- angulation varies with hock angulation, it also rules out
- insufficiently angulated stifles. _Fault_-Straight stifles.
- _Coat_
- Outer coat straight, coarse, and of moderately short length.
- Undercoat dense, short, and close lying. Coat should not be so
- long as to produce "fringe" on the belly, tail, or hind legs.
- _Fault_-Long or wavy coat.
- _Color_
- Fawn, apricot, or brindle. Brindle should have fawn or apricot as
- a background color which should be completely covered with very
- dark stripes. Muzzle, ears, and nose must be dark in color, the
- blacker the better, with similar color tone around the eye orbits
- and extending upward between them. A small patch of white on the
- chest is permitted. _Faults_-Excessive white on the chest or white
- on any other part of the body. Mask, ears, or nose lacking dark
- pigment.
- _Gait_
- The gait denotes power and strength. The rear legs should have
- drive, while the forelegs should track smoothly with good reach.
- In motion, the legs move straight forward; as the dog's speed
- increases from a walk to a trot, the feet move in toward the
- center line of the body to maintain balance.
- _Temperament_
- A combination of grandeur and good nature, courage and docility.
- Dignity, rather than gaiety, is the Mastiff's correct demeanor.
- Judges should not condone shyness or viciousness. Conversely,
- judges should also beware of putting a premium on showiness.
- Approved November 12, 1991
- Effective December 31, 1991
- C. _MCOA Code of Ethics _
-
- _MASTIFF CLUB OF AMERICA_
-
- _REVISED CODE OF ETHICS
- NOVEMBER 1995_
-
- The Mastiff Club of America requires its members to adhere to the
- following guidelines which constitute its Code of Ethics. The Club
- also requires that members, breeders and stud dog owners not aid
- or abet the violation of these guidelines by anyone else. This
- Code details certain practices necessary to implement the
- objectives of the Club as outlined in Article I, Section 2 of its
- Constitution.
- 1. I will consider only the betterment of the breed when
- breeding a bitch or allowing a breeding with my stud dog,
- being conscientious of controlling and eliminating inherited
- problems. A breeder and stud dog owner shall plan each
- breeding with the paramount intention of protecting the
- breed,, and only when the parties involved agree the breeder
- is in a position and has the knowledge to give proper care to
- both the bitch and offspring.
-
- 2. I will not allow a bitch to be bred prior to her reaching
- twenty- two (22) months of age, nor shall any bitch be bred
- after her seventh (7) birthday. A bitch will not be bred more
- than once (1) a year unless she does not whelp a litter, the
- litter is stillborn, consists of a single (I) pup, or as part
- of a veterinarian's recommendation for treatment of pyometra.
- Any other reason for a bitch to be bred more than once (I) a
- year would need to be stated in writing, along with a
- licensed veterinarian's certification of good health, to be
- received by the Recording Secretary at least forty-five (45)
- days prior to the breeding for the Board's approval.
-
- 3. I will sell a Mastiff only to a buyer whom I believe to be
- interested in the protection of the breed and who would agree
- in writing to provide the highest quality of care for said
- Mastiff, including quality food, water, proper shelter from
- heat or cold; active companionship, appropriate exercise,
- socialization and professional veterinary care whenever
- necessary.
-
- 4. An MCOA member will sell each Mastiff puppy/adult on a
- written contract signed by all parties. Said contract shall
- contain, but is not limited to the following provisions:
- a. Complete care/feeding instructions.
- b. A record of innoculations and worming with a recommended
- continuation schedule.
- c. Provide the buyer with a five (5) generation pedigree on
- the litter.
- d. Furnish a signed AKC registration or transfer form,
- unless written agreement is made with the buyer that
- such papers are withheld or are to follow.
- e. A provision that ensures that the breeder is contacted
- whenever an owner can no longer keep a dog at anytime in
- the dog's life.
- f. Stipulate that the buyer have a veterinary check-up
- within five (5) working days of the sale, (or whatever
- is applicable in your state of residence), to determine
- that the Mastiff is healthy. If the veterinarian
- determines that the Mastiff is not in good health, the
- breeder will, upon the Mastiffs return, refund the
- purchase price or replace the Mastiff.
- 5. I will not knowingly sell or provide a Mastiff for resale,
- gift or prize or to a broker/agent for resale. I will not
- engage in the brokering of puppies, (selling or buying),
- EXCEPT in a case that would prevent a potential rescue
- situation. ALL SUCH CASES MUST be documented by letter to the
- MCOA Recording Secretary.
-
- 6. I will not sell a puppy/adult who is sick, nor will I ship or
- deliver to the buyer a puppy less than eight (8) weeks of
- age.
-
- 7. I will show good sportsmanship at all times and in all
- matters relating to Mastiffs. I will maintain the highest
- degree of honesty and integrity. I will not knowingly make a
- misstatement of fact in any serious discussion or
- advertisement of my Mastiffs or the Mastiffs of any other
- Mastiff owner, that I might have with persons not qualified
- to judge the facts for themselves.
-
- 8. If I should find myself unable to physically take back a
- Mastiff, bred/sold by me, who has been displaced, I will
- assist MCOA Rescue or a regional club rescue program in the
- placement of said Mastiff.
-
- 9. I will require the neutering/spaying of any puppy/adult I
- place or sell as pet quality as soon as the dog reaches the
- appropriate age.
-
- 10. I will not sell a Mastiff for the purpose of attack training,
- fighting, or any other sport detrimental to the breed and its
- reputation.
-
- 11. I will not produce more than eight (8) litters, owned or co-
- owned, in a twenty-four (24) month period. As a stud dog
- owner I will not knowingly allow my stud dog to be used in a
- program which has already produced more than eight (8)
- litters in a twenty-four (24) month period.
- _MCOA BY-LAWS; ARTICLE VI - DISCIPLINE; SECTION 2 - CHARGES_
- Any member or non-member may prefer charges against a member for
- alleged misconduct prejudicial to the best interests of the breed
- or Club. Written charges with specifications must be filed in
- duplicate with the Recording Secretary together with a refundable
- fee of fifty (50) dollars, if charges are heard. ...
- D. _MCOA Rescue Service_
- 1. What is the MCOA Rescue Service?
- The Mastiff Club of America sponsors a national Rescue
- Service for Mastiffs in need. Dogs that are available for
- adoption come from a variety of circumstances, including
- shelters. Usually they range from two to six years old.
- When a Mastiff is released to the Club, it is taken to a
- veterinarian for a medical checkup and necessary
- vaccinations. The dog's temperament is evaluated and the
- Rescue Service attempts to locate any past history of the
- dog. These dogs are neutered or spayed before being released
- to their new homes.
- The Rescue Service requests a donation for an adopted Mastiff
- based on the age and general health of the dog. In order to
- be considered as an adoptive home, a Family Profile Form must
- be completed.
- To obtain more information about adopting a rescued Mastiff,
- send a SASE to:
-
-
- MCOA Rescue Service
- 6360 Conley Rd.
- Concord, OH 44077
-
-
- 2. MCOA Rescue Service Contacts
- To report a Mastiff in need, contact the nearest Rescue
- Coordinator listed below.
- _NATIONAL OFFICERS:_
- o _Director_
-
-
- Gloria Cuthbert (OH)
- phone: (216) 639-1160
- email: gcuthb.aol@aol.com
-
- o _Assistant to the Director - Western US_
-
-
- Paula Lange (AZ)
- phone: (520) 476-2351
-
- o _Assistant to the Director - Eastern US_
-
-
- Alma Bowman (GA)
- phone: (706) 965-4219
-
- _REGIONAL COORDINATORS:_
- o _NORTH-WESTERN REGION_ - AK, HI, ID, OR, WA
-
-
- Pacific Northwest Mastiff Club
- Paul & Misty Shearon (WA)
- phone: (360) 832-7245
- email: shearon@mashell.com
-
-
- o _WESTERN REGION_ - AZ, CA, CO, KS, MT, ND, NE, NM, NV,
- SD, UT, WY
-
-
- Karen Flocker (AZ)
- phone: (520) 779-0473
- email: jif2@dana.ucc.nau.edu
-
-
- o _MID-WESTERN REGION_ - IA, IL, IN, KY, MI, MN, MO, OH,
- WI
-
-
- Debbie Greiner (IL)
- phone: (773) 763-7793
- email: Bustbudge@aol.com
-
-
- o _MID-SOUTHERN REGION_ - AR, LA, OK, TX
-
-
- Janet Powell (TX)
- phone: (214) 342-3763
-
-
- o _NORTH-EASTERN REGION_ - CT, DE, MA, MD, ME, NH, NJ, NY,
- PA, RI, VA, VT, WV
-
-
- Gina Anelli (CT)
- phone: (860) 283-6278
-
-
- o _SOUTH-EASTERN REGION_ - AL, FL, GA, MS, NC, SC, TN
-
-
- Deborah Martin (NC)
- phone: (919) 556-0206
-
-
- o _www_
-
-
- Mastiff Rescue - Southern California -
- http://members.aol.com/rontobin/index.htm
- MCOA Rescue -
- http://www.idsonline.com/business/djones/resc
- ue1.htm
-
-
- E. _Mastiff References and Resources_
- 1. Books
- Unless indicated otherwise, the in-print books can be ordered
- from most major bookstores and are also usually available
- from the following, who may also have some of the
- out-of-print items occasionally:
- o 4-M Enterprises
-
-
- phone: (800)-487-9867
- email: Books4M@aol.com
- www: http://www.adognet.com/4M/welcome.html
-
-
-
- - or -
-
- o Amazon.com Books
-
-
- email: orders@amazon.com
- www: http://www.amazon.com/
-
-
-
- - or -
-
- o Direct Book Service
-
-
- phone: (800)-776-2665
- email: dgctbook@cascade.net
- www:
- http://www2.dogandcatbooks.com/directbook/
-
-
-
- - or -
-
- o Dog Lover's Bookshop
-
-
- phone: (212) 594-3601
- email: info@dogbooks.com
- www: http://www.dogbooks.com/
-
-
-
- _Books in-print / available:_
- o Non-Fiction:
- # _The Complete Mastiff_ by Betty Baxter and David
- Blaxter (1993) pub. by Howell Book House
-
- # _The Mastiff_ by Marie Moore (1978) pub. by
- Denlinger's Publishers
-
- # _The Mastiff And Bullmastiff Handbook_ by Douglas
- B. Oliff (1988) pub. by Howell Book House
-
- # _The Mastiff Club Of America Yearbook_ pub.
- annually by the MCOA in conjunction with the
- National Specialty
- @ 1991 - Tampa, FL
- @ 1992 - White Plains, NY
- @ 1993/1994 - F. Worth, TX / Portland, OR
- (combined)
- @ 1995 - Nashville, TN
-
- For availability and current pricing, contact:
-
-
- Lavelle Knight
- 7010 Valrie Lane
- Riverview, FL 33569
- phone: (813) 677-7991
- email: KNG37@aol.com
-
-
- # _Mastiff Stud Dog Registry_ by Debora Jones -
- updated biannually, to order send $17.50 check
- payable to MCOA Rescue to:
-
-
- D. L. Jones
- De Vine Farm
- 5951 Huntingtown Rd
- Huntingtown, MD 20639
-
-
- o Fiction:
- # _Henry and Mudge_ (youth) by Cynthia Rylant
- (1987-19xx) series of 14 (plus more on the way) (pb
- & hc) pub. by Bradbury Press
-
- # _The Toby Man_ by Dick King-Smith (1991) pub. by
- Crown Publishers
-
- _Books out-of-print / sometimes available (usually used):_
- o Non-Fiction:
- # _Champions, A View of the Mastiff in America_ by
- Joan Hahn & Judy Powers (1983) pub. by The Mastiff
- Club of America, Inc.
-
- # _Grandeur and Good Nature - The Character of the
- Mastiff_ by Joan Hahn (1992) pub. by Joan Hahn
-
- # _The History and Management Of The Mastiff_ by E.
- Baxter & P. Hoffman (198?) pub. by Scan House
-
- # _History of The Mastiff_ by M. B. Wynn (1886) pub.
- by Wm. Loxley and Melton Mowbray
- limited edition reprint (1988) pub. by Peregrine
- Press (500 copies)
-
- # _Making Of The Modern Mastiff_ by Norman Howard
- Carp-Gordon (1978) pub. by North & East Mastiff
- Fanciers
-
- o Fiction:
- # _Alphonse and Archibald_ by Ruth M. Collins (1953)
- pub. by Dodd, Mead & Co.
-
- # _Dog that wanted to whistle_ by Harry Levy (1940)
- pub. by Lothrop, Lee and Shepard
-
- # _Lion, the Mastiff_ by A. G. Savigny (1896) pub. by
- William Briggs
-
- # _Pilgrim and Pluck, Dogs of the Mayflower_ by
- Arthur C. Bartlett (1936) pub. by W. A. Wilde Co.
-
- # _Rab and His Friends_ by Dr. John Brown, MD (1892,
- 1902, 1909, 1927, 1970) pub. by various
- 2. Publications
- o _MCOA Journal_ - quarterly magazine - $28.00 a year,
- outside US extra, back issues $10, for subscription
- information contact:
-
-
- Mary Johnson
- Subscription Editor
- 871 Craigville Road
- Chester, NY 10918
- email: scanner@frontiercomm.net
- www:
- http://bigdog.geo.cornell.edu/~profiles/journ
- al.html
-
-
- o _The Mastiff Reporter_ - bi-monthly newsletter, $10.00 a
- year, to subscribe send $10.00 check payable to Sharon
- Krauss at:
-
-
- Sharon Krauss
- 4910 E. Emile Zola Ave.
- Scottsdale, AZ 85254
-
-
- o Many of the Mastiff clubs listed in Appendix I also have
- their own newsletters. Contact the individual clubs for
- more information.
- 3. Video / Audio
- o _Mass of Love, Joy and Pride_ - Mastiff song, cassette,
- available from 4-M Enterprises
-
- o _The Mastiff_ - the Official AKC video, available from
- Direct Book Service or 4-M Enterprises
-
- o _See Jane Train Spot_ - one hour video featuring
- Mastiffs in training, to order contact:
-
-
- See Jane Videos
- Box 555
- Eaton, IN 47448
-
-
- 4. Computer Programs & Databases
- o _Devine Farm Pedigree Program & Mastiff Database_ -
- Contains information on over 17,000 Mastiffs, performs
- inbreeding coefficients, relationship coefficients, can
- print up to 9 generation pedigrees, can display and
- visually analyze 5 generation pedigrees, allows queries
- against the entire database, lists descendants up to 9
- generations, lists siblings, full-siblings and can query
- against any of these lists. Runs under DOS with a
- mouse/keyboard interface, will also run under Win 3.1
- and Win95. To order, send $30 check payable to Mastiff
- Rescue to:
-
-
- D. L. Jones
- De Vine Farm
- 5951 Huntingtown Rd
- Huntingtown, MD 20639
-
-
- 5. Mastiffs on the Internet
- a. MCOA WWW Home Page
- No, not yet, but we're working on it. You can, however,
- find this FAQ at our temporary page:
- # Mastiff Club of America -
- http://access.mountain.net/~mmcbee/mastiff/
- And there should also always be a permanent link to
- this FAQ (under BREEDS) at:
- # rec.pets.dogs FAQ Homepage -
- http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/
- b. MCOA Member Home Pages
- # Avalon Mastiffs -
- http://www.angelfire.com/sc/AvalonMastiffs/index.ht
- ml
- # Castlemist Old English Mastiffs -
- http://web0.tiac.net/users/mastfmom/
- # Comstock Mastiffs -
- http://members.aol.com/DeerRidge/index.htm
- # De Vine Farm -
- http://www.dclink.com/mastiff/homepage.htm
- # Fantasy Mastiffs - http://intergrafix.com/fantasy/
- # Grand Traverse Mastiffs -
- http://www.mindspring.com/~carver2/
- # Greiner Hall Mastiffs -
- http://home.rica.net/napotnik/
- # Kinmor Kennels -
- http://pw1.netcom.com/~fdm1/home.html
- # Lamars Old English Mastiffs -
- http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/2814/
- # Lawraleigh's Mastiffs -
- http://members.aol.com/Lawraleigh/index.html
- # Nittany Mastiffs -
- http://bert.cs.pitt.edu/~daley/mastiff.html
- # Millennium Mastiffs -
- http://www.elnet.com/~rrfarms/tim.html
- # Povrlrd Kennels - http://www.why.net/users/parker/
- # Willow Run Mastiffs -
- http://www.hickory.net/willowrun/
- # Windfall Mastiffs -
- http://www.ohio.net/~jmcnamee/index~1.htm
- c. Other Mastiff WWW Pages
- # Club Espanol de Molosos de Arena -
- http://www.ctv.es/cema/
- # Club Francais du Bullmastiff et du Mastiff -
- http://members.aol.com/masbull/mastiff/club.htm
- # Home Page for The Mastiff -
- http://bert.cs.pitt.edu/~daley/mastiff.html
- # Mastiff Club Of Victoria -
- http://www.world.net/~mastiff
- # Mastiff Mailing List Archives -
- http://bigdog.geo.cornell.edu/cgi-bin/lwgate
- # Mastiff Mailing List Member Profiles -
- http://bigdog.geo.cornell.edu/~profiles/
- # Mastiff Picture Page -
- http://bigdog.geo.cornell.edu/
- # Mastiff Rescue - Southern California -
- http://members.aol.com/rontobin/index.htm
- # Mastiff Stud Dog Register and Articles -
- http://www.dclink.com/mastiff/index.htm
- # MCOA Journal Subscription Information and Back
- Issues -
- http://bigdog.geo.cornell.edu/~profiles/journal.htm
- l
- # MCOA Rescue -
- http://www.idsonline.com/business/djones/rescue1.ht
- m
- # "SHE WOULD NOT BE WHIPPED, SHE WOULD RATHER DIE" -
- http://vi.uh.edu/pages/mintz/33.htm
- d. Mastiff Mailing list
- Matthew Kleinmann at Cornell University runs a mailing
- list for OEM's and related breeds. Although not
- affiliated with the MCOA, many of its members can be
- found among the lists 300+ subscribers. To subscribe to
- the list, send email to
- mastiff-request@bigdog.geo.cornell.edu with 'subscribe'
- in the body (leave off the quotes).
- F. _Health Tests / Certifications every Mastiff SHOULD have_
- Mastiffs, like all breeds, have problems that are genetic - i.e.,
- passed from the parents to the offspring through their genes.
- These problems range in severity from minor to major and/or life
- threatening.
- In order to do something about these problems, breeders must first
- be aware that the problems exist, then they must learn as much as
- they can about the problems, including how they are inherited. A
- number of excellent tools are available to help accomplish the
- task of reducing genetic disease in our dogs - health testing with
- registered or certified results published by various
- organizations.
- Standardized tests are the only objective and practical way to be
- sure of the health status of any dog. Keep in mind that dogs are
- not always as they appear; for example, they can be dysplastic
- without exhibiting any clinical symptoms. Dogs can also "carry"
- the genes of their relatives, not just the genes that they express
- themselves. Thus, the more relatives of a dog that are tested, the
- easier it is to evaluate the chances that that dog "carries" the
- gene(s) for a particular trait. For example, if a dog's
- full-sibling has PRA and it and its sire and dam do not, then the
- dog has a 66% chance of carrying the gene for PRA.
- Testing ALL dogs for genetic disease provides the means for
- reducing the risk of, and eventually eliminating, most genetic
- diseases. For Mastiffs, testing should be performed for hip
- dysplasia (x-ray), elbow dysplasia (x-ray), patellar luxation
- (examination), eye disease (examination), thyroid disease (blood
- draw), heart disease (examination) and von Willebrands Disease
- (vWD) (blood draw).
- While Mastiff breeders, no matter how much they test, cannot
- guarantee that their puppies will not experience these problems,
- their use of genetic testing and the breeding of only tested clear
- dogs will reduce that risk. Breeders that test all of their dogs
- and require that all puppy buyers do likewise are making a sincere
- effort to reduce the incidence of genetic disease.
- The WWW site 'Mastiff Stud Dog Register and Articles' at
- http://www.dclink.com/mastiff/index.htm contains a considerable
- body of information regarding Mastiffs and these tests.
- Additional genetic disease and testing information:
- + Eliminating Genetic Diseases in Dogs: A Buyer's Perspective
- FAQ - http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/medical-info/
- + The Dog Genome Project - http://mendel.berkeley.edu/dog.html
- TESTING / REGISTRATION / CERTIFICATION FACILITIES AND LABS
- + MCOA GDCS (Genetic Data Collection Service)
-
-
- Constance Parker
- GDCS Coordinator
- PO Box 531533Grand Prairie, TX 75053-1533
- phone: (972) 660-5113fax: (972)660-5201
- email: parker@why.net
-
-
- The MCOA offers this service to individuals and breeders who
- are interested in researching the genetic background of their
- dogs. Inclusion on the list for the various genetic tests is
- free to all Mastiff owners regardless of their membership
- status with MCOA. Updates are published quarterly in the MCOA
- Journal and a complete listing (1972 to the present) is
- available for a fee ($15 with OFA list, $10 without OFA list)
- Send request and check (payable to MCOA) to the above to
- order.
- The MCOA GDCS currently includes OFA Preliminary Hips, OFA
- Preliminary Elbows, OFA Hips, OFA Elbows, von Willebrands
- Disease, Thyroid and CERF. Passing OFA Hips, OFA Elbows, OFA
- Patellar and CERF registration are automatically included for
- all Mastiffs, contact the above for specific requirements for
- listing other results.
- + MCOA PRA Project (Progressive Retinal Atrophy)
- o West Coast Coordinator
-
-
- Karen Flocker
- 3228 Mehrhoff Place
- Flagstaff, AZ 86001
- phone: (520) 779-0473fax: (520) 779-2169
- email: jif2@dana.ucc.nau.edu
-
-
- o East Coast Coordinator
-
-
- Debora Jones
- De Vine Farm
- 5951 Huntingtown RdHuntingtown, MD 20639
- phone: (301) 855-6711
- email: djones@ids2.idsonline.com
-
-
- o www:
-
-
- PRA Research -
- http://mendel.berkeley.edu/dogs/diseases/pra/
- pramenu.html
- James A. Baker Institute For Animal Health -
- http://mendel.berkeley.edu/dogs/diseases/bake
- r/baker-intro.html
-
-
- The MCOA is backing a project by the James A. Baker Institute
- For Animal Health at Cornell University to develop a DNA test
- for PRA in Mastiffs. PRA is a recessive, genetic,
- degenerative eye disease that leads to blindness. PRA
- typically cannot be detected in Mastiffs until the dog is 1
- year old, and sometimes not until the dog is over 3 years.
- The DNA test is needed to detect carriers and those afflicted
- prior to breeding, so that breeders can guarantee that their
- pups will not have PRA and PRA can be eliminated from the
- gene pool. At present the penetration of PRA into the Mastiff
- gene pool is unknown due to the lack of adequate testing
- tools and insufficient awareness of the need for, and use of,
- those tools that are available. The MCOA is administering a
- fund and soliciting donations to aid in the development of
- this test. Contact the above for more details.
- + OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, Inc.)
-
-
- 2300 E. Nifong Blvd.
- Columbia, MO 65201-3856
- phone: (314) 442-0418
- fax: (314) 875-5073
- www: http://www.offa.org/
-
-
- Reviews x-rays for hip and elbow dysplasia (will consult on
- other orthopedic conditions via x-ray), certifies patellas,
- hearts and thyroid. Publishes passing results. Dogs must be
- at least 24 months for hip and elbow certification and 12
- months for patella, thyroid and heart certification.
- Preliminary x-rays of hips and elbows can be performed on an
- evaluation basis as early as six months. Fees are required
- for submission of x-rays for certification/evaluation and
- patella/thyroid/heart for certification in addition to vet
- fees for performing of x-rays and various examinations.
- OFA requires that the examination for heart certification be
- performed by a board certified cardiologist, a vet who is
- board certified in another specialty or a vet with experience
- in diagnosing heart murmurs. If at all possible try to find a
- cardiologist.
- OFA has specific requirements for certification of thyroid
- testing and specific labs that have qualified to perform
- these specific test requirements. Thyroid certification
- through OFA is a preferred option, although not necessary,
- since a full thyroid panel will provide the necessary genetic
- data.
- + CERF (Canine Eye Registration Foundation)
-
-
- 1248 Lynn Hall
- Purdue University
- W. Lafayette, IN 47907
- phone: (317) 494-8179
- www: http://www.prodogs.com/chn/cerf/index.htm
-
-
- Certifies eyes based on examination by an ACVO (American
- College of Veterinary Ophthalmologist) diplomat (member).
- Publishes passing results. Dogs can be examined/certified at
- any age (recommend as early as possible - 8 weeks) and CERF
- recommends re-examination annually. Submission fee required
- in addition to vet fee for examination.
- + GDC (Institute for Genetic Disease Control in Animals)
-
-
- P. O. Box 222
- Davis, CA 95617
- phone: (916) 756-6773
- fax: (916) 756-6773
- www: http://mendel.berkeley.edu/dogs/gdc.html
-
-
- Reviews x-rays for hip and elbow dysplasia (will also review
- x-rays for dysplasia of shoulders and hocks as well as
- osteochondrosis and arthrosis for all sites). Certifies eyes
- based on examination by ACVO diplomat. Certification at 12
- months of age for hips, elbows, shoulders and hocks.
- Certification of eyes same as for CERF. Reports are available
- for a fee for use by breeders, owners, prospective owners,
- breed clubs and researchers under certain rules. Reports
- include KinReport(TM) - Progeny & Sibling/half-sibling
- printout from the registries on subject dog; and Phenotype
- report on subject dog. ALL (bold, italics) results (passing
- and failing) are listed -- THIS IS AN OPEN REGISTRY. Fee for
- x-ray evaluation/certification and eye certification in
- addition to vet fees for performing x-rays or examinations.
- + MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY
-
-
- Animal Health Diagnostic Laboratory
- P. O. Box 30076
- Lansing, MI 48909
- phone: (517) 353-1683
- www:
-
-
- http://www.ahdl.msu.edu/
- http://www.ahdl.msu.edu/ahdl/endo.htm
- (thyroid)
-
- One of major labs performing full panel for thyroid function
- (T3, T4, TT3, TT4, FT3, FT4). Recommend doing a baseline
- thyroid at 12-18 months and retest annually (see NOTE below).
- + ANTEC (formerly PAL - Professional Animal Laboratory)
-
-
- 17672-A Cowan Ave.
- Suite 200
- Irvine, CA 92714
- fax: (714) 752-4935
- phone:
-
-
- (800) 542-1151 (CA)
- (800) 745-4725 (outside CA)
-
- One of major labs performing full panel thyroid function test
- and von Willebrand test. Same as above on thyroid timing. Von
- Willebrand is a one time test which can be performed at any
- age (see NOTE below).
- + CORNELL UNIVERSITY
-
-
- Diagnostic Laboratory
- College of Veterinary Medicine
- P. O. Box 5786,
- Ithaca, NY 14852-5786
- phone: (607) 253-3900
- www: http://web.vet.cornell.edu/public/dl/
-
- One of major labs performing full panel thyroid function test
- and von Willebrand test. Same as above on thyroid and von
- Willebrand timing (see NOTE below).
- _NOTE:_ When having blood drawn for thyroid and/or von Willebrand
- testing, be sure that your dog is healthy, has not been vaccinated
- within the past two-four weeks, is not on any medication, is not
- in season (within 6-12 weeks) and has not been flea dipped or
- stressed such as from breeding. A number of things, such as those
- mentioned above, can affect the test outcome and the need for
- retesting is not unusual.
- G. _Questions To Ask a Mastiff Breeder_
- The following are offered as possible questions you should ask the
- breeder of a Mastiff puppy you are considering acquiring. The FAQ
- 'Getting a Dog' contains additional, more general questions you
- may also wish to ask.
- 1. Are the parents proven to be clear of the genetic problems
- discussed in Appendix F? Have the suggested tests been
- performed on the parents? What is the breadth of the testing
- - just the parents? older siblings? grandparents? aunts &
- uncles? The breeder should be willing and able to produce
- copies of all test results, at least for the parents - if not
- offered - ask for them!
-
- If the breeder doesn't test, ask why. Do NOT accept the
- answer that they don't test because they've never had a
- problem with something - how can they know they don't have a
- problem if they don't test? Do not accept their vet's opinion
- on hip dysplasia x-rays - a regular vet is not a trained
- radiologist - OFA uses three board certified radiologists to
- examine all x-rays.
-
- 2. How old is the dam? How many times has she been bred? How far
- apart were the breedings? A Mastiff bitch should not be bred
- before 22 months of age nor after her 7th birthday; nor
- should her breedings, other than in exceptional cases, be
- closer together than 12 months.
-
- 3. Why did they choose the stud dog they used? What traits were
- they looking for? What was the purpose of this breeding? What
- improvements were they after? Are the breeders planning on
- keeping a puppy from this litter? If not, why not? If yes,
- how did they pick which one? A reputable Mastiff breeder will
- have a good reason for every breeding, either to improve
- their line or solidify and continue traits they already have.
- A reputable breeder will NOT be breeding just to have puppies
- to sell.
-
- 4. What faults do the dam and sire have? EVERY Mastiff has some
- faults. How has this breeding served to correct these faults?
- What are their good points?
-
- 5. What breed clubs do the breeders belong to? At a minimum,
- they should belong to the MCOA and/or one of regional Mastiff
- clubs, thus exhibiting an interest in supporting the future
- and direction of the breed, as well as being willing to place
- themselves under the oversight of their peers through the
- mechanism of the clubs' Code of Ethics.
-
- 6. Have the dam and sire been shown? Conformation showing is
- intended to identify the dogs that best fit the Mastiff
- standard; if the dogs haven't been shown, how do the breeders
- know, objectively, how well they are doing?
-
- 7. What are the living conditions of the breeder's dogs? Do they
- have adequate living space and room to exercise? Are the
- quarters clean and well kept? Is fresh water available?
-
- 8. What steps have the breeders taken to socialize the pups? Are
- they used to children? Other dogs? Other animals? Public
- places with lots of people? Early socialization is extremely
- important for a Mastiff; the lack of adequate socialization
- can cause serious problems later on.
-
- 9. What are the pups being fed? Are they being given
- supplements? If so, why? Mastiff pups will eventually grow to
- their genetically programmed size, it is much better for
- their health if they do so slowly. Good, quality food is
- usually all they need.
-
- 10. What are the terms of their contract? What guarantees do they
- offer? What conditions do they impose on your treatment and
- care of the dog? What penalties are imposed if you violate
- the terms of the contract? See Appendix C, section 4 of the
- MCOA Code of Ethics for a list of the minimum terms an MCOA
- breeder must include in their contract as well as other
- material they are required to supply to a puppy buyer.
- H. _Special Aspects of Raising a Mastiff Puppy_
- Even a small Mastiff is destined to be a large dog. This is
- something that must be taken into consideration when rearing it.
- As a puppy, your Mastiff should not be allowed to do anything that
- you would not wish your full grown Mastiff to do, such as laying
- on the couch. And because your puppy is going to be such a large
- dog, it is also a very, very good idea that it receive, at a
- minimum, basic obedience training. You DO NOT want a 200 pound dog
- that won't listen to you; this can lead to obvious problems.
- Mastiffs grow at such an astonishing rate that it is best not to
- force their growth with artificial vitamins and calcium
- supplements. A good quality dog food is all that they require. A
- Mastiff is going to get as large as it is going to be,
- genetically, anyway; allowing them to grow at their own pace will
- give them a more stable foundation once they get there. Many
- breeders recommend NOT feeding a 'puppy chow' beyond the first few
- months due to the high protein content.
- During growth periods your Mastiff puppy is subject to joint
- injury. You will need to be especially careful during these times
- to control excessive exercise. A puppy may play at its own rate
- but should not be encouraged to take long walks, jump obstacles,
- or any other exercise that will stress the joints. This is not to
- say the puppy has to be confined. Just use caution and do not
- allow it to over exert itself. After about 18 months the growth
- rate has decreased and the puppy has just about reached its full
- stature.
- A Mastiff remains a puppy much longer than most breeds. Even
- though a Mastiff is already quite large by the time it is 6 months
- old, it is still growing and maturing rapidly. A Mastiff does not
- reach its full physical or mental maturity until around 3 years of
- age.
- You will be surprised at how much a Mastiff puppy will drink.
- Fresh water should be kept available at all times. Drool will
- accumulate in the bottom of the pup's water dish. Since the pup
- will not drink its own drool, the dish should be rinsed out at
- least daily.
- All puppies love to chew. Mastiffs have very powerful jaws, even
- as a puppy. Some chew toys that are fine for other breeds may not
- be suitable for your Mastiff. Caution should be used when choosing
- toys or chew bones because the pup could bite off pieces and
- swallow them, resulting in intestinal blockage. Mastiff puppies
- also have a tendency to chew, or swallow, rocks and sticks. They
- should be watched closely and discouraged from doing so.
- I. _Mastiff Clubs & Contacts_
- 1. MCOA Officers and Contacts
- o President - Joe Margraf
- o Vice President - Bob Silvaggi
- o Treasurer - Tina Copas
- o Corresponding Secretary
-
-
- Karen McBee
- Rt 7, Box 520
- Fairmont, WV 26554
- email: mmcbee@access.mountain.net
-
- o Recording Secretary
-
-
- Misty Shearon
- 40510 76th Ave E
- Eatonville 98328-9515
- email: shearon@mashell.com
-
- o Directors
-
-
- Dave Hussey
- John Lange
- Liz Simon
- Open
-
- o MCOA AKC Delegate - Dr. William Newman
- o MCOA AKC Gazette Columnist - Joan Hahn
- o MCOA AKC Public Education Coordinator
-
-
- Jody Greene
- phone: (203) 966-4253
- fax: (203) 972-0234
-
- o MCOA Genetic Data Collection Service Coordinator
-
-
- Constance Parker
- PO Box 531533
- Grand Prairie, TX 75053-1533
- phone: (214) 660-5113
- email: parker@why.net
-
- o MCOA Journal Editor
-
-
- Kimberley Wall
- 18174 Wheeler Rd.
- Springdale, AR 72762
- phone: (501) 361-2980
- email: KMWALL@aol.com
-
- o MCOA Journal Subscription Editor
-
-
- Mary Johnson
- 871 Craigville Road
- Chester, NY 10918
- email: scanner@frontiercomm.net
- www:
- http://bigdog.geo.cornell.edu/~profiles/journ
- al.html
-
- o MCOA Membership Chairperson (for membership information
- and application forms)
-
-
- Marianne Jackson
- 11401 W. Winslow Ave. Rt. 2
- Tolleson, Az. 85353
- phone: (602) 936-8488
- fax: (602) 936-8467
- email: SmoknLad@aol.com
-
- o MCOA Rescue National Director - Gloria Cuthbert - (see
- Appendix D)
- o MCOA Rescue Secretary/Treasurer
-
-
- Jill McMahon
- 4620 Durham Rd
- Raleigh, NC 27614
-
- o Mastiff Information Packet includes:
-
-
- Breed Information
- Breeder Referral List
- Rescue Adoption Information Packet
- (enclose $4 check payable to MCOA to cover
- costs)
-
-
-
- BRL - East
- 391 Old Northfield Rd.
- Thomaston, CT 06787
-
-
-
- - or -
-
-
- BRL - West
- 3434 W. Greenway #26-329
- Phoenix, AZ 85023-3877
-
- 2. US Regional Mastiff Clubs (alphabetical by club name)
- The following contacts are constantly changing. If you find
- an error or know of one that's changed, please let the FAQ
- maintainer know.
- o Chesapeake Mastiff Club
-
-
- Diane Spalding, Secretary
- 609 Fountain Rd.
- Salisbury, MD 21801
- phone: (410) 749-4912
- fax: (410) 860-5013
-
-
- o Midwest Mastiff Fanciers
-
-
- Melissa Prete, Secretary
- 4311 West Parker
- Chicago, IL 60639
- phone: (312) 252-2769
- email: rrfarms@elnet.com (Tim Plezbert)
-
-
- o Mid Atlantic Mastiff Alliance
-
-
- Sue Blickenstaff
- 3841 Turkeyfoot Rd.
- Westminister, MD 21158
- phone: (410) 346-6127
-
-
- o North & East Mastiff Fanciers
-
-
- Jennifer Modica, Corresponding Secretary
- 175 Stagecoach Rd.
- Cape May Court House, NJ 08210
- phone: (609) 463-0534
- fax: same
- email: jmodica175@juno.com
-
-
- o Pacific Northwest Mastiff Club
-
-
- Judy Ropes, Secretary
- 7434 Byron St. NE
- Olympia, WA 98506-9724
- phone: (206) 943-6718
-
-
- o Pacific Southwest Mastiff Club
-
-
- Betsy Harvey, Secretary
- 1018 Amber Drive
- Santa Paula, CA 93060
- phone: (805) 525-4980
- email: thndrpaws@fishnet.net
-
-
- o Redwood Empire Mastiff Club
-
-
- Kim Lupi, Secretary
- 4480 Roop Road
- Gilroy, CA 95020
- phone: (408) 842-1956
- email: STEVEN_LUPI@hp-paloalto-om16.om.hp.com
-
-
- o Rocky Mt. Mastiff Fanciers
-
-
- Kaurie Jones, Secretary
- 11053 Chase Way
- Broomfield, CO 80020
- phone: (303) 466-9188
-
-
- o Southern States Mastiff Fanciers
-
-
- Anne Heyob, Secretary
- 290 Huskey Mtn. Road
- Lacey's Spring, AL 35754
- phone: (205) 498-3180
- email: heybob@bmtc.mindspring.com
-
-
- o Sunshine State Mastiff Fanciers
-
-
- Vicki Hix, Secretary
- 331 31st West
- Bradenton, FL 34205
- phone: (813) 747-4342
-
-
- o Three Rivers Mastiff Club
-
-
- Mary Rosa, Treasurer
- 236 Campville Rd
- Northfield, CT 06778
- phone: (203) 283-0616
-
- 3. Mastiff Clubs in Other Countries (alphabetical by country)
- The following contacts are constantly changing. If you find
- an error, know of one that's changed, or are aware of a club
- we missed, please let the FAQ maintainer know.
- o AUSTRALIA
- # Mastiff Club of Australia and New Zealand
-
-
- Andy Mayne, Editor
- Lord St. Nikenbah M/S 763
- Pialba Qld. 4655 Australia
-
-
- # Mastiff Club of New South Wales
-
-
- Margaret Hextall, Secretary
- 5 Idriess Place
- Edensor Park, NSW 2176
- phone: (61) 02 9823-7248
-
-
- # Mastiff Club of Victoria
-
-
- Paul Simmonds, Secretary
- Lot 25 Wonghee Rd.
- Emerald, VIC 3782, Australia
- phone: (61) 59 683383
- email: mastiff@world.net
- www: http://www.world.net/~mastiff
-
-
- o CANADA
- # Canadian Mastiff Club
-
-
- Deborah Caron, Secretary
- 22611 Gibson Rd. RR #2
- Wainfleet, ON, Canada LOS 1V0
- phone: (905) 899-3689
- email: gbaruzzini@edc.gov.ab.ca (Gail
- Baruzzini, VP)
-
-
- o DENMARK
- # The Danish Mastiff Club
-
-
- Heinrik B. Pedersen
- Gullandsgade 2. 3. th.
- 2300 Copenhagen S, Denmark
- phone: (45) 31 59 51 05
-
-
- o ENGLAND
- # Old English Mastiff Club
-
-
- Mrs. J. Critoph
- Norwich Road
- West Caistor GT Yarmouth, England NR30
- 5SLJ
-
-
- # The Mastiff Association
-
-
- Mr. P. J. Sargent
- 111 Lyttelton Rd.
- Stechford Birminghamn, England B33 8BN
-
-
- o FINLAND
- # Association of Finnish Bullmastiff & Mastiffs
-
-
- Tuija Sorthan Kauriinrinne
- 13 I 29 01480 VANTAA, Finland
- phone: 358 - 09 - 851 3757
-
-
- o FRANCE
- # Club Francais du Bullmastiff et du Mastiff
-
-
- Anne Marie Class, Presidente
- 35 rue des Pres Vendome
- 78450 VILLEPREUX, France
- phone: 33 01 34 62 46 53
- fax: 33 01 30 56 07 80
- email: amclass@aol.com
- web:
- http://members.aol.com/masbull/mastiff/
- club.htm
-
-
- o GERMANY
- # Club fuer Molosser e.v.
-
-
- Walter Weiss
- Vagantenhof-Schoenberg
- 82544 Egling, Germany
- phone: (49) 8170 7824
- fax: (49) 8170 9133
-
-
- # The German Mastiff Club
-
-
- Monika Reinhard, Secretary
- Hirzenhain-Bahnhof, Habichstrasse 29
- 35713 Eschenburg, Germany
- phone: 0 27 70/26 20
-
-
- # Old English Mastiff Club Deutchland e.v.
-
-
- Frau Ingid Rau
- Saarbruckersrt 18
- 6601 Riegelsberg, Germany
- phone: (49 ) 6806 46069
-
-
- o NETHERLANDS
- # Old English Mastiff Club Nederland
-
-
- Hans Rosingh
- Van Lierswijk 7
- 9421 TH Bovensmilde, The Netherlands
- phone: (31) 592-412337
-
-
- o NEW ZEALAND (see also AUSTRALIA)
- # All Breeds Mastiff Club
-
-
- Joanne Franklin, President
- 125 Viponds Road
- Hibiscus Bay, New Zealand
-
-
- o NORWAY
- # Norsk Engelsk Mastiff Klubb
-
-
- Kare Konradsen, President
- Seierstenasen
- 1433 Vinterbro
- phone: (47) 64 97 71 62
- email: nhammers@sn.no
-
-
- o PORTUGAL
- # Associacao Portuguesa Dos Caes de Tip Molossoide
-
-
- (forming-1997?)
-
-
- o SOUTH AFRICA
- # Bullmastiff Club of South Africa
-
-
- (All Mastiff breeds)
- P.O. Box 4885
- Randburg 2125, South Africa
-
-
- o SPAIN
- # Club Espanol de Molosos de Arena
-
-
- P.O. Box 175
- 28400 Collado Villaba
- Madrid, Spain
- phone: (34) 1 8511406
- email: molosos@ctv.es
- web: http://www.ctv.es/cema/
-
-
- o SWEDEN
- # Bullmastiff-och Mastiffvannera
-
-
- Kristina Vakkala, President
- P1 1086 A
- 635 09 Eskilstuna, Sweden
- phone: (46) 016-35 35 98
-
-
- J. _Mastiff Varieties and Internet References_
- + Bullmastiff
- o American Bullmastiff Association -
- http://www.akc.org/clubs/aba/
- o Bullmastiff Fanciers Of Canada -
- http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1300/
- o Dansk Bullmastiff Klub - http://www.kyed.com/dbk/
- o Bullmastiff Breed FAQ -
- http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/breeds/
- + Cane Corso (Sicilian Mastiff)
-
- + Dogo Argentino (Argentine Mastiff)
-
- + Dogue de Bordeaux (French Mastiff)
- o Dogue de Bordeaux Society -
- http://members.aol.com/ddbsociety/DDBS/index.html
- o United States Bordeaux Corporation -
- http://www.usbc.mel.net/
- + Fila Brasileiro (Brazilian Mastiff)
- o Fila Brasileiro Club of America -
- http://www.idis.com/FBCA/index.htm
- o FILANET - http://dt.fee.unicamp.br/~amaury/filanet.html
- + Mastin Del Pirineo (Pyrenean Mastiff)
- o Pyrenean Mastiff Club of America -
- http://www.oicu2.com/mastiff/
- o Razas Espanolas -
- http://www.gae.unican.es/general/dogs/breeds/spain/espan
- olas.html
- + Mastin Espanol (Spanish Mastiff)
- o Razas Espanolas -
- http://www.gae.unican.es/general/dogs/breeds/spain/espan
- olas.html
- + Neapolitan Mastiff (Italian Mastiff)
- o American Neapolitan Mastiff Association -
- http://home.aol.com/ANMA1
- o National Board of Italian Cynophiles -
- http://www.cta.it/enci.htm
- o United States Neapolitan Mastiff Club -
- http://www.neapolitan.org/
- o Neapolitan Breed FAQ -
- http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/breeds/
- + Perro de Presa Canario (Canary Island Dog)
- o Razas Espanolas -
- http://www.gae.unican.es/general/dogs/breeds/spain/espan
- olas.html
- + St. Bernard
- o Saint Bernard Club of America -
- http://www.akc.org/clubs/saints/
- o Saint Bernard Breed FAQ -
- http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/breeds/
- + Tibetan Mastiff
- o Tibetan Mastiff Association of America -
- http://www.tibetanmastiffs.com/index.html
- + Tosa Inu (Japanese Mastiff)
- _____________________________________________________________
-
- Mastiff FAQ
- Mike McBee, mmcbee@access.mountain.net
-