THAILAND

Visas, Embasies & Border Crossings

The Thai embassy in The Netherlands moved about a year ago. They can now be found at:
Ambassade van Thailand
Laan Copes van Cattenburch 123
2585 EZ Den Haag (The Hague)
The Netherlands
Tel: (070) 345 9703
Roland Massing, The Netherlands (May 99)

For the new 1 year multiple entry visa:
1. The visa must be applied for in you home country. You cannot visit, say, Malaysia, and think you will be issued with a visa at the Thai Embassy in KL.
2. It is true that you only get 90 days per entry but visa companies operating in Bangkok can handle the revalidation for you without you leaving the country. It can take 10 to 14 days and cost around 3000 baht.
Raymond Cragg - Thailand (Feb 99)

In the Vientiane Times (current 21/11/98) we found an interesting article which announced a new border crossing between Laos and Thailand. It is at Chiang Saen - Tonpheung.
Carol Wiley & Peter Thornton (Jan 99)

The Lao Embassy in Ramkamhaeng Road in Bangkok will issue 30 day tourist visas for 1050 baht. It takes three days for the visa to be processed, or you can pay an extra 300 baht and it will be ready the same day. Visa applications must be submitted during morning office hours and passports are to be collected in the afternoons. Although we held valid visas, travel permits (official stamps on a piece of paper, kept in the passport) were still required everywhere we went except Vientiane, where they looked at us blankly and told us repeatedly that only a visa is required to travel around Laos! The travel permits were free and easy to obtain, except in Luang Prabang, where the officials take it a lot more seriously if you have been there longer than 24 hours without getting a stamp.

There are three immigration checkpoints in Luang Prabang and depending on how you arrive and leave depends on which one you should go to. If you fly in to or out of Luang Prabang, there is an immigration checkpoint at the airport; if you arrive/leave by boat, the checkpoint is near the pier where the slow boats dock; if you arrive/leave by bus (road), the checkpoint is opposite the Rama Hotel. For example, if you arrive by boat and leave by bus, you should get your arrival stamp at the checkpoint near the pier (if you arrive late, after it has closed, make sure you go early the next day - it is open Saturday and Sunday from 8 to 10 am only), and your departure stamp at the checkpoint opposite the Rama Hotel (closed weekends), before going to the bus terminal. The easiest way to find out what stamps you are supposed to have is to ask other tourists (although most will be just as confused as you are!) or the owner of your guesthouse, as they can get into trouble if they have guests who do not have the appropriate stamps.
Emily Moller, Thailand (Jan 99)

If you are travelling to Laos, Vietnam or Cambodia from Thailand, it is probably worth getting all your visas in Bangkok: all the embassies are here, and it is usually cheaper. If you organise visas as soon as you arrive, you need not be held up in Bangkok for too long.
Tony Stewart, New Zealand (Nov 98)

It is not possible to cross from Thailand into Myanmar overland. The Thai/Myanmar border was recently reopened for commerce after several months. It is difficult to be definitive because the situation there is so fluid but this probably means travellers may also be allowed to cross into Myanmar again. However, if they are allowed across the border, it is for a day visit only and they must return to Thailand by the same border crossing the same day. They are not allowed to proceed beyond the township at the border where they crossed. Travellers are also not allowed to enter Myanmar at Rangoon and exit across the Thai border. If travellers wish to visit Mandalay, Pagan, etc, they must enter and leave the country at Rangoon airport. The Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade recently updated its Travel Advice for Myanmar to reflect these conditions.
Doug Foskett, Australian Embassy, Rangoon (Sep 98)

I think this will be of some use to people in the UK obtaining Thai tourist visas.
Most publications state that visas should be obtained from London (Queens Gate). They will not, however, issue a visa on the spot. If you need one urgently, it will cost something like ú40. If, however, you live outside London, the Thai Consulate in Cardiff, Wales, is much better. It is run by two people who will quite happily issue a visa for ú8 on the spot, providing you have a couple of photos. No queues and save lots of money travelling to London and paying a premium for an instant visa.
Dave North (Sep 98)

Please note that the Canadian Embassy in Bangkok has moved to a new location. We are now located on the 15th floor, Abdulrahim Place, 990 Rama IV Road, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500. The telephone number is (662) 636 0560.
Megan Foster, Trade Development Officer, Canadian Embassy,
Thailand (Aug 98)

The Thai embassy in Nepal has changed the location and is now in the north of Kathmandu next to the Bangladesh Embassy.
Andrea Munch (Apr 98)

Three Pagodas Pass (pp186 and 349): the border with Myanmar is open to Thai citizens only (has been this way for the last three years according to the border control - on Thai government instructions).
A M Quest - UK (Apr 98)

In Mae Sai, the procedure for entering Tachilek has changed. Now, they stamp you in and out and you keep your passport, just like any other border crossing. Easy way to get another month in Thailand!
Page 88, Embassies: in Bangkok, the Lao Embassy is now way out in Bang Kapi. I don't have the exact address, but they are on a small lane off Ramkhamhaeng Soi 39. I got a 30 day visitor's visa for 880 Baht and it took one day.
David Kulka - USA (Apr 98)

In the "Documents" section it states that you require a passport valid for at least three months after date of entry. I duly checked mine and it was valid for four months so I thought nothing more of passports. It was the day before I was due to fly out when a work colleague asked me if I had my tickets, money and whether my passport was valid for six months. They were convinced that six months was the required time which worried me enough to phone the Thai Embassy to check. They confirmed that the requirement was indeed six months and that I would not get into Thailand if it was less.
Sarah Conning - UK (Apr 98)

I was one of the first travellers to cross the Thai-Cambodia border (at Poipet) overland as they opened it officially during the time I was visiting Angkor. I had no problems at all, although I wouldn't say I felt safe all the time during the journey. You see dozens of people carrying heavy guns and the police and army (supposedly there to ensure the safe flow of goods and people from both countries), complete the scary scenery. Anyway, you save at least $100 by travelling from Siem Reap to Bangkok overland though you have to know that you are really taking a risk as due to political instability, Cambodia isn't a safe country yet.
Eduardo Cardellini Martino (Apr 98)

If you want to extend your visa to stay longer in Phuket and can't be bothered to bus it to Haatyai-Satun-Langkawi (Malaysia), you can now go by road to Ranong and then Longtail to Burma. To do this, find Jimmy's Light House, register your desire to do a visa run with Rod Stewart (seriously!) He has a list of all the foreigners who want to share to Burma. Add four people (with a sense of adventure) plus one jeep rentable from Rod (800 Baht). Drive for four hours along the A4 to Ranong. Fuel 350 Baht. Immigration officer in Ranong office - very nice man! Haggle for a Longtail from the port to Burma immigration office (which is actually a concrete block in the middle of the river): 150 Baht for both ways. You get two stamps when you reach Burma: one allows you to stay for 24 hours and the second one logs you out of Burma and you are on your way back to Thailand. Whole boat journey takes 45 minutes; beautiful approach to Burma - two beautiful temples (take a camera). Cost of visa in Burma US$5 or 300 Baht. Then four hours back to Phuket. Best day to go is Sunday - no traffic on the roads and 7am start is best time. Return approximately 1930 exhausted!
Duncan Proffitt (Apr 98)

I'd advise that if travellers intend to go from Bangkok to Cambodia and on to Vietnam, they should get their visa for Vietnam in Phnom Penh. In Bangkok we stressed that we wanted to enter Vietnam at Moc Bai and leave via Lao Bao. When we collected our visas they were stamped Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. We were then told that the embassy in Bangkok only issues visas for these entry/exit points. We don't know if this is true or just a cock-up by the travel agent.
lan Middlebrook (Mar 98)

I was in Laos last week. Basically, I followed the advice in the Lonely Planet to apply for my Laos visa at the Thai border (Nongkhai). It cost about US$68 plus the transportation to Vientiane. The hotel name is Phanthavee Hotel, but you can easily find another hotel which can help you get the visa. There is a cheaper way to get the visa: go to the border directly because there is an immigration department there. All you have to do is pay US$50, supply one photo and wait for about 15 minutes. You will get the visa - it is very easy.
Winnie (Mar 98)

Here is a report about crossing the Thai-Cambodian border at Poi Pet. It's possible and completely legal since Wednesday 25 Feb 98. I left on Friday morning. In Poi Pet there is only one tar road leading up to the border and almost exactly east-west. I found two hotels and one guesthouse. The border was open before 8am. I got my exit stamp and had to pay US$5. Leaving tax as at the airport, so they said. I asked for a receipt but there weren't any around yet. I can't remember if I had to pay for leaving at Moc Bai, so I advise to ask for a receipt all the time. They told me it's possible to enter Cambodia if you already have obtained a visa. I got my free 30 days visa for Thailand. The border closes at 6pm I was told. There are taxis and motos to Aranya Prathet about 4km down the road. I hitched on a pick-up. At the end of the road is the bus station. Just before the end at the right side is the train station. There are aircon buses (about 130 baht) and non-aircon buses (about 74 baht). The trip takes around five hours. There are at least two trains daily to Bangkok. One at 6.40am and one after 1pm. If you cross the border in the morning it's better to take the bus.
Kevin Garvey (Mar 98)

Visas to Laos can now be obtained at a number of different agencies in Thailand but most seem to be charging a set US$60. It was cheaper to get one in Chiang Mai if you could wait 5-6 days and paid in Baht. The agencies charging US$60 will get you a visa by the next day.
Sandra & Andy Neeve - UK (Feb 98)

If you are travelling on a UK passport, it must be valid for at least six months before you are allowed into Thailand.
Anon (Feb 98)

Ann Tour (in Chiang Rai) is a great place to get a visa for Laos. We faxed copies of our passports two days in advance (one is sufficient) and could have had the staff accompany us over to Laos that day to get our visas for only 1700 Baht for a 14 day visa (the price hasn't gone up in the past year) but instead chose to wait. They were very accommodating and watched our packs the next morning until we were ready for them to take us to the pier.
Virginia Porter - USA (Feb 98)

The new address of the Laotian embassy in Bangkok is at, what a helpful Thai spelled like, Rumkhumhaeng Road near the university building.
Jochen J Schnell - Germany (Feb 98)

I wanted to inform you of a recent change in policy at the Mai Sai-Thakhilek border. Last week I was able to officially "exit" and "re-enter" Thailand here, enabling me to receive a new 30 day tourist visa free of charge (I am a US citizen). The Myanmar immigration police charged me US$5 (or 350B) to enter Thakhilek for the day, and graced my passport with both entrance and exit stamps for Myanmar. Quick, convenient, cheap, and no passport photos.
Rachel Jones - Taiwan (Jan 98)

We drove on to Mae Sai and crossed into Tachilek the next morning. There have been drastic changes in the procedure since your last edition. Now, travellers present their passport (no photocopies or extra photos required) and the Thai immigration folks process you out of the country just like at any other departure. They stamp you, tear out your departure card, and send you along with your passport in hand. Once at the Burma side of the bridge, they stamp your passport as entering Burma (no visa required) and collect US$5 from each person (for a 1 day pass), and then they send you on your way into Tachilek, no hassles, no special procedures. Coming back is just as simple, but you must fill out an entry / departure card, just as when you first arrive in Thailand.
John & Esther Atwell (Dec 97)

At Mai Sai, Thailand, it is now possible to cross over to Burma for US$5. This is a good way to extend visas. It's only a day visa but on re-entry one gets another 30 days visa.
Rachel McEleney - Ireland (Dec 97)

The telephone number for the New Zealand Embassy in Bangkok has changed. The new number is: (2) 254 2530. The address currently listed in the 1997 edition of Thailand is correct.
Nicki Ashton, Consular Officer NZ Embassy - Bangkok (Dec 97)

The US Embassy in Bangkok has moved directly across Witayu Road from where it used to be situated.
John Atwell (Nov 97)

When youÆre in Bangkok next time, why not visit a long term prisoner in Bangkwang Prison and enjoy a great boat ride en route? Take the Chao Phraya ferry north as far as it goes to Northanburi. It costs only a few Baht and is the boat ordinary Thai people use to go to work and school. The boat speeds from landing to landing, with communication about the boatÆs position communicated by shrill whistles. See Thai people washing and swimming and living along the river banks as you swish past.

In Northanburi, the prison is only 400 metres from the ferry landing. Walk through the market stalls up the main road, take the first left and the place where you register to visit a prisoner is about 250 metres along on your left. To get your visiting paper you will need a passport and men should wear long trousers. You will also be asked the name of the prisoner you wish to visit. You can ask for names and prison blocks in the prison which is over the road. Here are some names:

Bill Gallagher from the USA, 30 years old, in Block D, visits on Wednesday and Friday between 1 and 2.30 pm are best as it is quiet.
Jimmy Callender, Block 2, a 50 year old Scot doing 43 years.
Brian Mounsey, Block 2, from the UK.
Peter Boyko, Block 3, from Australia.
Lee Williams, Block 2.
Block 2 and 3 visits are on Monday and Wednesday.
You can take cigarettes, coffee, Newsweek, Asiaweek, Time etc as gifts. Newspapers are not allowed and fruit is cut open. Books are appreciated. Also the guards and staff are pleasant and you should have a thoroughly worthwhile and interesting time.
Brian F Cox, UK (Apr 99)

While staying at a guesthouse in Bangkok, my boyfriend and I noticed a letter on the notice board about visiting prisoners in the Bangkok jail. It told us how to get there and gave a list of names of prisoners, as you must have a name to tell the guards. Four of us went to the jail basically out of curiosity and visited two English guys. One guy had 40 years and one had 100 years, reduced to 40 years by the KingÆs amnesty. The visit was quite interesting but sickening to hear the horrendous conditions and tales. They have up to 23 men in one cell, 23 x 17 ft, bathe in water straight out of the river and are locked up for 13 hours a day. They can buy food in the jail - if they donÆt, they get fish-heads in rice (the guards eat the fish), or bean sprouts in water. YouÆre allowed to take them clothes and books (theyÆre not supplied with a uniform). There is also a prison shop where you can buy cigarettes, coffee and fruit - they can consume these or use them as currency, so if nothing else theyÆll appreciate these and a chat as I should imagine most of them donÆt get many visitors. It seems many backpackers read the notice and think about visiting but not knowing what to expect are put off. I would urge anyone whoÆs thinking about it, to go. IÆm sure the prisoners appreciate it.
U Whilton & P Lawrence, UK (no date)

Having lived and worked for a few years in Thailand, I would like to give some advice on what visitors should, or should not, wear. Thai people are unhappy that many western visitors dress with no regard to what is acceptable here. When visiting temples, museums, government offices, etc, people should not wear shorts, sleeveless tops or, women, low-cut, revealing tops. In fact, these kinds of clothes are only really suitable for tourist beaches and resorts. Clothes are cheap here so it is not difficult to find something comfortable and suitable - look at what the locals are wearing and do the same. Many Thai people look down on untidy, unwashed budget travellers. One phrase I was told was æfarang kee nokÆ, which translates as æforeign bird shitÆ. Of course, Thai people do not say this to you as it is not in their culture to speak so directly. However, such visitors could do themselves a favour and smarten up a bit and help improve the image of western backpackers.
Brian Savage, Thailand (Mar 99)

ATMs in Thailand that accept Cirrus are Siam Commercial Bank, Thai Farmers Bank and Thai Military Bank. Users should be careful not to choose the quick cash option as this will not work.
Robert Smith (Feb 99)

For those using credit cards to obtain cash in Thailand, be warned that due to the currency crisis, many Thai banks have little money. In many cases it is hard to obtain more than 2000B per card per day from ATMs, so whenever you can get more from an ATM, take advantage of it!
Ray Hegarty, Australia (Feb 99)

I wish to relate an experience that I had in Thailand that made me aware of the huge responsibility that we, as travellers, have. I was in northern Thailand where my Thai friend took me to visit some hill tribe villages. At one particular village, I witnessed several youngsters lying pitifully on their sides all day and most of the night smoking opium. Either that, or doing heroin. My friend told me that it used only to be the village elders who would have their pipe when they came home from work in the fields to relax, and it was respected. Now, however, with travellers passing through on a regular basis and having a ærustic experienceÆ smoking with the villagers, my friend believes that the younger people have been influenced thus: æif farangs our age smoke, why shouldnÆt we?Æ I am not saying we are wholly responsible for their drug addiction, by no means: but we really should think first whether we are in fact causing any harm by this act.
Maria Shearer, South Africa (Jan 99)

The Tourism Authority of Thailand, Kuala Lumpur office, has moved from the Royal Thai Embassy as of December 1998. Its new address and contact details are:
Suite 22.01 Level 22 Menara Lion
165 Jalan Ampang
50450 Kuala Lumpur
tel: (03) 262 3480
fax: (03) 262 3486
email: sawatdi@po.jaring.my
homepage: http://www.amazingthailand.th; www.tourismthailand.th
This information was published in the New Straits Times, 6 January 1999.
Teresa Ong (Jan 99)

A caution about buying bus tickets: travellers need not only be cautious about buying tickets at places like Khao San Rd but at bus terminals as well. A friend of mine booked a ticket from Chiang Mai to Bangkok on a VIP bus and found out that it was worse than a third class bus - for a ten hour trip, it was absolutely dreadful. What happens is that 10% of those selling tickets out of booths are government buses; the rest are private companies. My friend bought unknowingly from a private company, thinking he was booking on a government bus. This is not really a problem in the Bangkok terminals, but outside Bangkok it is huge. I estimate that most of those selling tickets at the Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Phuket and Krabi bus stations were private companies.

The best clue to the nature of a bus company is the name. Private companies have 'Blah Blah Touring' written above the wicket. If you still end up going with a private company, I recommend it for short trips only and check out the bus. Government buses are usually cheaper, safer, more comfortable and almost always on time (a rarity in Thailand, believe me). Thai government buses departing out of Bangkok are always (for the air-cons) blue and white. An orange stripe or a '999' indicates a first class bus, a '99' or no stripe is second class and a yellow or pink stripe is a VIP bus. Most buses have the destination written on the side of the bus in English, which is handy.
Shay Lockhart, Canada (Dec 98)

Um Phang: the Eco-Tourism Centre on the outskirts of Um Phang will provide you with a map of the village and surrounding area, showing points of interest.
Sue Masters, UK (Dec 98)

Phuket: many restaurants in Karon Beach add 10% for the service and 10% tax for every meal.

Phi Phi Islands: be advised to buy your underwater photo equipment in advance. You won't find it at Phi Phi, and in Phuket it is rather expensive.
Allebosch Henk, Belgium (Dec 98)

When taking a songthaew, the best thing to do is watch closely what the locals pay and just do the same, without any comment; asking "How much?" most of the time means paying three times the normal price.
Jorgen Petiet & Ine Rikkers, The Netherlands (Dec 98)

I just learned the hard way, but you don't have to: if you are flying in and out of Bangkok, and staying for less than 12 hours - it doesn't matter if you leave the airport - you can avoid the 500 baht departure tax. Be warned that you must ask for an "exemption" form when you get your visa on entry.
Poorer but Wiser, Thorn Tree (Dec 98)

We met a monk with whom we became friends. He told us he had been trying to do that for years, but no tourist would take the time with him. If you want to make contact with the country, you should make this effort, be patient, and you will see a part of Thai society which otherwise would be closed.
Helge Docters van Leeuwen & Roland Vos, The Netherlands (Dec 98)

Most bureaux de change charge approximately 25 baht to change each travellers' cheque.

The practice of dispensing medication from larger bottles is of some concern, as exposure to heat and moisture can affect the efficacy of the tablets. Where it is important to maintain specific blood levels of medication (such as diabetes, epilepsy and some cardiovascular disease), tablets dispensed in such a way may lull some travellers into a false sense of security. Similarly, keeping medication in bathrooms is probably not a great idea because of the heat and moisture combination. Thailand has begun to restrict the variety of medication available at pharmacies; not everything is available. Furthermore, whilst most medications are cheaper than other countries, some cost A$1-2 per tablet. My recommendations to travellers with specific health need would be to take the entire supply, stored in blister packs rather than bottles or jars.
Dr John Lam-Po-Tang, Australia (Dec 98)

Good snorkelling can be had by the shipwreck which lies off the rocky beach by the Coral Beach resort, south of Ban Mae Hat.
Malinda Quartel (Nov 98)

There are a few banks in Thailand which only take Thai cards, but most of the ATMs will accept foreign ones. Most of them will take Plus Cards. The only ones where you can use Cirrus are Siam Commercial Bank and the Thai Farmers' Bank.
Billy Zaenglein, Thailand (Nov 98)

Krabi: the international telephone/communications office has moved to 346 Uttarakit Rd. Only phone and fax are available. I recommend you buy an international phone card, rather than going all the way out there.
Henrik Enevoldsen, Denmark (Nov 98)

About 20km from Mae Sot on Route 105 to Tak is the Phru Waw (or Phru Who) shrine which is dedicated to a national hero who fought against Burmese invaders. To pay their respects, drivers from cars, trucks and motorbikes blow their horns when they pass by. Other people who visit the shrine ignite fireworks for the same purpose.
Guido Faes, Belgium (Nov 98)

Whilst the red-light district of Pat-Pong is depressing as far as the sex tourism is concerned, the night market there cannot be surpassed.

I recommend the sleeper train to Chiang Mai as it is hardly any dearer than the bus and far more comfortable.

You should ignore the people at the mainland port of Ban-Phe trying to sell you rooms on Koh-Samet. Instead, buy a ticket for the ferry from a proper booth (close to the jetty) and go straight to the island. From here, take a Songthaew to the first beach and simply walk down the side of the island asking for prices.
Tom Sleigh, UK (Oct 98)

Visits to Ayuthaya are very easy by way of the local trains which depart from Hualamphong station in Bangkok. Once at Ayuthaya (60-90 minutes from Bangkok), bike rentals are available and highly recommended for visiting the many temple ruins scattered around the city.
David Munro, Japan (Oct 98)

The Khmer ruins at Pra Vihear in Cambodia are once again open to tourists from the Thai side. The views are amazing but the ruins are badly in need of restoration; those who have been to Phanom Rung or Phimai on the way may be a little disappointed.
Martin Searle, Thailand (Oct 98)

Regarding the Kok River boat trip from Tha Ton to Chiang Rai: unless you want to stay overnight in Tha Ton (there are some places to stay but not that much to do), you should take the early bus from Chiang Mai at either 6 or 7.20am. The 9am bus will be too late as the average trip takes about four hours and the boat in Tha Ton departs only once a day at 12.30pm.
Gontalo Magalhpes - Macau (Oct 98)

The Association for the promotion of the Status of Women (APSW) is an organisation which helps the women and children in distressed condition by providing them with a place to stay, clothing, food, medication, vocational trains and jobs to do. Since this activity requires income from other sources, the APSW has established the WE-TRAIN International House, with the financial support from Japan, to raise income for the administration of the above-mentioned project.

WE-TRAIN International House is only ten minutes away from Don Muang International Airport, located on 8.3 acres of land. Facilities include - 27 double bed serviced guest rooms with private bathroom and balcony; 11 dormitories; conference room; dining room and coffee shop; swimming pool and gymnasium; common room with UTB; telephone and fax service; internet and e-mail; and transportation service.
WE-TRAIN International House, Association for the Promotion of the Status of Women, 501/1 Mu 3, Dechatungkha Road, Sikan, Don Muang, Bangkok. Tel: 929-2301 - 10, 929-2222; fax 929-2300; e-mail: we-train@linethai.co.th; http://www.we-train.linethai.co.th

Throughout Thailand there is a problem with 1990 and 1993 series US$100 currency notes. They aren't accepted at most exchange counters/banks. No one could tell us why. Surprisingly, the counters had no problem accepting a 1981 series 100 dollar bill!
A Chakraborty, India (Oct 98)

Don't count on being able to use your ATM card. Most of the machines accept Thai bank cards only.
Traca Alger, Australia (Oct 98)

If going to Wat Po for a massage at the massage school, go early or late. We had a four hour wait because we arrived at midday. Also, since our last visit, it seems that every visitor to Bangkok wanted a massage here and it was beginning to resemble a cattle market.
Paul Wood, UK (Jul 98)

When you register at your hotel, always ask for a business card. It usually has both English and Thai script - the latter can be read by a taxi driver if you get lost or if you simply wish to get home again with a minimum of fuss. It is normal practice to leave your key at reception in Thailand so make sure when you go out that there is no curfew. If you write your room number on the business card, you will be able to remember it when you return. This is important if the night shift is on duty when you return as they may not recognise you. Once I was registered under my first name as Mr Bob instead of by my surname which greatly complicated matters. Not everyone can say their room number in Thai, but show the receptionist the card with 303 written on it and the message is very clear.
Bob Juniel - Australia (Jul 98)

The Australia Centre has moved from the Kad Suan Kaew Road Complex in Chiang Mai. Sorry, did not seek out the new address.
Sarah Tarkenton (Jul 98)

The direct route to enlightenment: if you're after information on where to stay, shop, eat, work, drink, catch a bus, send an email, pray, etc in Bangkok, take the direct route and check out www.bangkokmap.com, the most comprehensive guide to Bangkok on the Internet, currently being developed by a bunch of streetwise, young Bangkokians. Post your message in the community section in the Q&A or classifieds room and wait for some friendly local to reply with helpful advice and information.
Phoebe - The Thorn Tree (Jul 98)

There's no problem getting internet access in either Chiang Mai or Bangkok. In Bangkok, there are heaps of internet cafes on Khao San Rd, in Chiang Mai there's a strip of them (mostly in travel agents) along Moon Meuang. Also, the museum in Chiang Mai is closed for renovations.
Jane - Australia (May 98)

In the last issue you wrote about cellular phones. It's not right any more. Bangkok, Pattaya, Phuket and many more places have got a really good GSM net. It is the same system that Europe uses. It's no problem to use your own phone in Thailand. Another big net is NMT 900. It's not the same quality but is wider spread in remote areas.
Eric Bjorkman (Apr 98)

Attention budget travellers visiting Thailand:
As a westerner who spends a lot of time in Thailand, I feel the need to comment on the interaction I witness between travellers and Thais, especially in the Khaosan Road area of Bangkok. This relationship has deteriorated over recent years which is a shame for all concerned. The responsibility for this has to be shared between both local Thais and travellers but the bad feeling and mutual lack of respect is escalating and needs to stop.

Being more involved with Thais here than travellers, I would like to explain my version of their side of the story. They have a hard time understanding the attitudes they are experiencing from travellers. Without exception they say that travellers are arriving here with very different attitudes to the travellers several years ago. Some of this may simply be a case of remembering 'the good old days' but much of it seems to be a real change for the worse.

I understand that people travelling on a budget have to watch their expenses carefully and no-one is critical of that. Many of the Thais in this area know as well as anyone what it is like to live on a low budget. The problem is in the accompanying attitude to this attempt to live cheaply.

Please remember that there is more to everyone's lives here than the size of your budget. The world goes on and people live their lives. Hard nosed bargaining and constant complaining about prices does no-one any good. If you want sympathy about your finances, don't expect to get it from local people trying to earn a living. They are here providing the services and products that make your travel possible and supposedly enjoyable. They do this as work or business to earn money. Fortunately or unfortunately, this is the reality of how the world works and it is foolish to expect anything different.

I am not saying don't bargain, just do it gently with a smile and in the appropriate situations. Not everything is bargainable, no matter what your travel guide says. Goods for sale on the street normally are; guest house rooms, food in restaurants and airline tickets normally are not. Attempting to wear people down by giving them a hard time only generates bad feelings. Please remember that the people you deal with while you are here are living their normal, routine, regular life. Can you imagine if, in your regular job, you dealt all day every day with people complaining and hassling you about the price of your service, purely in an attempt to get a US$0.10 discount? That is what if often comes down to.
Martin Cooper (Apr 98)

Internet booking of accommodation: I searched with yahoo and other search engines. The best choice was in my opinion [www.asiatravel.com]. This offers accommodation throughout Asia. They have many Bangkok hotels listed and in many places you get a much cheaper price than the rack rates. We stayed in Bangkok at the Royal City Hotel in Thonburi and paid about B2150/double instead of about B3200 rack rate. Booking is easy - you get a confirmation and reconfirmation. The website offers pictures of the hotel rooms, a map of the location, often a picture of the dining rooms, lobby, etc and is very informative. They have the Bangkok hotels listed by price and also listed by location. Very useful and a good bargain. It should be included in the section on on-line stuff.
Viktor Weisshaeupl - Austria (Apr 98)

There's a seldom enforced motorcycle helmet law, but when the cops set up a roadblock, they usually confiscate 40 to 50 motorcycles, mostly from tourists. You pay a motorbike taxi to take you to the police station to pay the fine and collect your bike.
Donald W M Yap (Mar 98)

There is a bicycle club in Chiang Mai: the Chiang Mai Sunday Bicycle Club, which organises a trip every Sunday. The club was founded by police major Anu Nernhard some years ago and now has more than 500 members. The trip starts every Sunday between 7 and 7.30am from the square in front of the Tha Phae Gate. Information regarding whether a trip is 'on' can be supplied by the staff of J J Bakery - situated in front of the Tha Phae Gate and the better bicycle shops such as The City Bike Shop, Bumrung Buri Road near the Nong Buak Hat Park. More information can be supplied by police major Anu Nernhard. He can also give information about a bicycle club near Doi Inthanon.
In the month of December there is a lightshow/play in/near the Jong Kham Lake. I was there 10 and 11 December and on both nights there was a performance. The story is about the history of Mae Hong Son district. It is also told in English. From the platforms in the lake you have the best view of the show (also highest entrance price). The show, which lasts one hour, is concluded with fireworks. Worth seeing!
Sybren Ykema - Netherlands (Mar 98)

Whilst in Bangkok, we needed to stock up on travellers cheques, which was a bit of a headache. We wasted almost an entire day trying to perform this simple task in several of the large banks on Silom Road (not far from the GPO). However, all the banks we tried wanted to see our flight tickets before selling us travellers cheques on our credit card. Why they needed to see a flight ticket is beyond me. We eventually found one bank that would sell us travellers cheques without too much fuss and without the need to see a flight ticket - the Siam Commercial bank on the corner of Samsen Road and Phra Sumen Road, close to Khao San Road.
Alan Middlebrook (Mar 98)

If taking any US currency to Thailand make sure that they are recent notes. Dollars from 1990 are not accepted anywhere in Thailand. There were notices informing us of this.
Sandra & Andy Neeve - UK (Feb 98)

Tourism Authority of Thailand Head Office will be moved from 372 Bamrung Muang Road to the Le Concord Building (10th - 20th Floors), Ratchadaphisek Road, from 31st January 1998.
For tourism information, please contact:
Tourism Authority of Thailand (at either of the three addresses below):
4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Ave (next to Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium)
Phone: 281 0422, ext 101, 102 or 282 9775 6; Fax: 282 9775
(Open daily from 8.30am to 4.30pm).
Le Concord Building (10th floor)
202 Ratchadaphisek Road
Phone: 694 1222; Fax: 694 1220, 694 1221
(Open from Monday to Friday, 8.30am to 4.30pm).
Chatuchak Weekend Market Office
Khamphaeng Phet 2 Road
Phone: 272 4440 1, 272 4615, 272 4636 ext 110
(Open only on Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 5pm).
Tourism Authority of Thailand (Jan 98)

The overnight rafting trips along the Khwae Noi River are no longer running.
Ura Frenklah - Australia (Jan 98)

The Malaysia Hotel, Bangkok now offers internet access 24 hours a day for about 180B/hr.
Steve (Jan 98)

The highlight for many tourists to Chiang Mai is trekking. But before you go on a trek, you'll be asked whether you prefer vegetarian meals. Say yes unless you want to witness a black pig being slaughtered in front of your very eyes.
Joelynn Chin - Malaysia (Dec 97)

If you cross the border between Thailand and Malaysia on the eastern side after dark (through Sungai Kolok and Rantau Panjang), be sure to have some Malaysian ringgit (RM) acquired in Thailand before you enter. Bank machines or money exchanges close early at the border, and there is little close at hand. Thai baht carries outrageous difficulties for bargaining, and we ended up paying about 5 times too much to get to Kota Bharu by taxi.
Sandra de Souza & Dan Oleskevich - Canada (Dec 97)

In the 'get everything sorted' city of Bangkok, you can no longer get US$ cash for your travellers cheques.
Hanne Finholt - Norway (no date)

These days it is possible to enter Cambodia by land through Thailand at the border of Aranyaprathet (Thailand) and Poipet (Cambodia). From Bangkok there are two trains a day to Aranyaprathet (6 am, 1.30 pm). ItÆs a six hour trip and costs 48B. If you take the early train you can cross over the same day and even get to Siem Reap on the same day. Taking the 1.30 pm train means overnighting in the small town of Aranyaprathet which has two cheap guesthouses.
For people coming from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville, if you take the 7.30 am bus in Phnom Penh it is possible to reach the ferry in Sihanoukville and therefore get to Trat on the same day without having to spend a night in Sihanoukville. This means you can even catch a bus to Bangkok on this same day, either at 6 or 11 pm and be in Bangkok 18 to 24 hours after leaving Phnom Penh!
Anon (no date)

The LP guide describes two ways to get to Mae Hong Son: via Mae Sariang and Pai. But there is a third way, straight through the mountains between the two hamlets. You have to go all the way through the Doi-Inthanon National Park until you reach a little town on the other side of Doi Inthanon. You canÆt get lost because there is only one street apart from the one which leads to the top of the mountain. When you reach the little town, the road forks. You can go left to Mae Sariang, or right to Mae Hong Son. Only the first 40km of the road are paved; the rest is unpaved and in bad condition. Along this road you will find one of the most beautiful and typical landscapes in northern Thailand. But beware: the 200km takes at least six to seven hours and a 4WD is necessary (although we did it in a Toyota Corolla with the loss of some parts of it!), and the road is not passable in the rainy season.
Ulf GΣbler & Martin Abbel, Germany (no date)

Some useful Bangkok bus lines for travellers staying near Khao San Road:
#59 (AC and non-AC) to airport
#11 (AC) shuttles between eastern and southern bus terminals
#3 (non-AC) goes to northern bus terminal
#53 (non-AC) does a circuit that takes in the station and the palace
#15 (non-AC) a useful bus that passes Siam Square and Patpong
As there are few #59s, it may be better to get to the airport by going to the northern terminal then transfering to another bus (#10,13,29).
Anon - (Feb 99)

The national airlines of Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, Philippines and Brunei have launched an air pass targeted at long haul travellers from the US and Europe. All you have to do is fly to any of the above countries on the airlines mentioned above and you can buy a ticket to any other destination within the six countries for only US$90. You need to buy at least three tickets however.
Magdelene Lim (Feb 99)

We reckon that the train is by far the best way to get into the city from the airport. ItÆs cheap, you wonÆt be held up in traffic and you know youÆre going to end up in a fairly central location, so donÆt have to worry about getting off the bus in the right place if itÆs your first time or itÆs dark. Going the opposite way, it can be a bit tricky finding which train to get at Hualamphong station. The station staff try to be helpful but donÆt always seem to know the right direction. My advice is to ask a few different people until you start to get a consensus! Note that the trains from the north stop at the airport station (Don Muang), so if youÆre going to the airport straight from Chiang Mai, for example, there is no need to go into Bangkok and out again.
Julie Sheard, UK (Jan 99)

Qantas airlines in Bangkok have moved. Their new address is:
Qantas & British Airways
990 Rama 4 Rd
Bangkok 10500
tel: (662) 636 1770-4
fax: (662) 636 1749
Lee & Leo Stauber, Australia (Jan 99)

To get to Ko Chang: from Ko Chang Centrepoint Pier there are now four ferries a day to Ao Sapparot where you can get a songthaew to one of the beaches. The ferries leave Ko Chang Centrepoint at 7 am, 10 am, 1 pm and 4 pm (we were told that if there are 40 people waiting it will leave earlier; our ferry left on time, even though there were plenty of people waiting), and on the return journey the ferry leaves Ao Sapparot at 9 am, 12 pm and 3 pm. The return fare is 120 baht. There is a car park at the Centrepoint Pier where you can leave your car during your trip to Ko Chang. Safety on the ferry across is still a big issue especially with the recent accident where a number of people drowned. There were only three to four life jackets on the ferry, none in very good condition, and at least 50 passengers. Some Thais bring their own life jackets - this might be worth considering, especially if you travel with young children.
Emily Moller, Thailand (Jan 99)

STA Travel in Bangkok is no longer based at the Thai Hotel. It is now located on the 14th floor of the Wall Street Tower, on Surawong.

The best way to travel in Bangkok is undoubtedly by river boat, as it avoids the traffic congestion, or by bus. The buses are unexpectedly frequent and inexpensive; unlike the taxis, you don't have to pay for the vast amount of time spent in traffic jams.

Pak Chong/ Khao Yai National Park: if travelling south, you can reach Pak Chong by changing trains at Ban Pa Chi Junction, thereby avoiding the need to go all the way back to Ayuthaya.
Sue Masters, UK (Dec 98)

Going from Pak Bara to Hat Yai can be a major hassle. Unless a minibus is actually leaving right away, you may want to take a songthaew to Satun and catch a taxi or bus from there.
Becky Wyland, USA (Dec 98)

Taxis from Phuket Airport to Krabi town cost baht and take just under two hours; there is a limousine booking desk at the airport, though "limousine" just means car.

Minibuses to Hat Yai/Penang leave at 7am and take 9 hours. They cost 450 baht.

The wooden walkway from Rai Leh West to Ao Phra Nang is no longer present.

You need to allow an hour to reach to the airport from Karon and Kata; they cost 500 baht.

Phuket airport is not particularly well organised, and the ground staff seemed to have difficulty coping with the number of passengers on the Phuket-BKK shuttle flights.

Thai Airways International are rescheduling flights to cope with the current economic crisis. What this means is that issued tickets may not necessarily guarantee a seat. For example, we purchased business class tickets two days prior to our departure because we were told that there were no economy seats left. Upon arrival we were told that there were no business class seats left, and that we would have to sit in the economy section. When we asked for a refund, we were told that we would have to go back to the Thai Airways office in Bangkok where we purchase them for a refund. When I pointed out the fact that we were meant to be flying away from Bangkok, they then agreed to write an Amex refund slip but informed us that it would take three months for the money to be credited. The point of this anecdote is not to complain about the refund but to illustrate that rescheduling can be unannounced and potentially problematic.
Dr John Lam-Po-Tang, Australia (Dec 98)

The airport bus still does a wonderful service. Even at midnight (their last departure time) it was quite full, so I think more people may be catching on. Quite a bargain at 70 baht one way, it saves you the hassle of dealing with cab drivers. Getting back to the airport from the city is almost as easy. There are clear signs in English at the stops where the airport bus picks up passengers (same areas as the drop-off points from the airport) so just hang around there and wait.

I travelled mostly by train, which is a very good option in this country. However, I found some travel agencies a bit unwilling or unable to help out, since my bookings were not straightforward - I wanted a jump on, jump off deal and had all my dates already set. So I headed to the Hualamphong train station and was helped by an English-speaking man at the booking office. Even when one week later I came back to change everything around, he was very helpful and granted me all my wishes.
Malinda Quartel (Nov 98)

If you are holding an airline ticket, you must be at the airport at least half an hour before your flight leaves. Any seats without passengers half an hour before the flight departs are sold to stand-by folks first. Also, book your flight from Koh Samui to Bangkok three days ahead of time. All the flights in between were sold out. We booked directly at the airport and saved ourselves the booking fee.
Traca Alger, Australia (Oct 98)

One of the most useful long-tail boat routes goes along Khlong Banglamphu, allowing pleasant, cheap and comparatively rapid transport between the Khao San Road/Banglamphu area and Hualamphong Train Station (20 minutes, 6B one-way). The Banglamphu stop is under the bridge where Chakrapong becomes Samsen Road (see map p246 in the guide).
Josh Wilson, Australia (Aug 98)

The booking fees for train travel have increased substantially. A single from Chiang Mai to Phitsanulok cost 156B but the booking fee was 200B! Same thing for the ticket from Philok to Bangkok.
Leila Buijs & George Smith (Aug 98)

The above postcard re booking fees is misleading! I travelled around Thailand in July this year, and caught the same train - the 200B is a surcharge for the 2nd class, air-conditioned express train and includes coffee, cakes and lunch. If people want to travel very cheaply they should get in the non-air-conditioned 3rd class with all the Thais. We did and you get there just as fast.
Charlie, UK (Sep 98)

We had hoped to fly to Udon from Chiang Mai by Orient Express Air. We went to the airport to find this company but could find no trace of them at all. The information desk simply told us that 'they not here, they gone, they finished'. So it had to be air-conditioned bus.
Paul Wood, UK (Jul 98)

Loei bus terminal is now out of the city along the main highway. Costs about 20B for a tuk tuk into the city.
Sue Houston - Australia (no date)

Departure tax went up on 1 February 1998 from 250B to 500B - ouch! The domestic departure tax is 30B.
Sarah Tarkenton (Jul 98)

We were in Thailand in November 1997 and had booked a flight from Ko Samui to Bangkok leaving early in the afternoon. Our hotel organised to take us to the airport half an hour before our flight. When we arrived at the airport, we found out that we were supposed to book in earlier - they had already cut off book-ins. We were told that we'd have to hang around to see if there were flights with spare seats on them. Little did we know there were a lot of other people with the same problem. We eventually got to Bangkok around midnight - about nine hours after our original flight. So be careful!
B Simpson (Jun 98)

The A3 (air-conditioned bus from the airport to the city) is now available much later than 10pm, and is good value at about 70B.
John Macey - Australia (Jun 98)

Bangkok Airways have now stopped charging the surcharge on flights to and from Ko Samui. You now just pay the normal fare plus airport tax of 100 Baht.
Carole Pritchard (May 98)

Over Easter, I travelled from Frankfurt to Sydney and I stayed for a few days in Thailand. I had a flight booked from Bangkok to Ko Samui and I stayed two days in Ko Samui. In the morning, Bangkok Airways called me and told me that I owe them 2600 Baht (approx. A$100) for airport taxes (1250 Baht arrival tax, 1250 Baht departure tax and 100 Baht for maintenance). I consider this extreme, especially for a short stay.
H Saxer - Australia (Apr 98)

There is a bus from Ayuttaya to Sukothai, air-conditioned, first class or maybe it was even a VIP bus according to the price. I think that this connection is interesting for many travellers travelling from Bangkok north to the archaeological sites.
Sukothai, Getting Around, page 505: public transport between Sukothai old city and new city ceases completely around 17.45 with the last songthaew leaving from the old city. We made a stop at Pailyn Resort on our way back to the city and at about 18.30 there were no more songthaews or tuk-tuks going. We had to take the Pailyn hotel taxi.
There are no more local public buses running in the city of Chiang Mai. According to the people there they have been shut down after the increase in fuel price. The songthaew system works well. The charge is B8 per person. Drivers notoriously try to overcharge either by asking for too much or by not returning all the change they owe you.
Viktor Weisshaeupl - Austria (Apr 98)

Don Sak to Thong Yang ferry: this is the vehicle ferry for Ko Samui and is now very busy. A new larger ferryboat has been added to the fleet which has air-conditioned lounges. Strangely, the non-smoking lounge air-conditioning was not working and it was 10 degrees hotter than the smoking lounge. The queuing system for vehicles is well run except that buses do not have to queue and go on first. So if you think you will get on the next ferry as you are well up the queue, take care: six coaches may turn up as the ferry starts to load. The ferry departs in each direction every hour in theory, but in practice a sailing may be cancelled without notice if there are only a few cars and lorries waiting. Conversely, extra sailings are put on for weekends and holidays.
David F Latchford - UK (Mar 98)

In Thailand, when travelling over long distances, one of the best ways to travel is by government bus. It was called 'Lignite' when we were there. It is a guaranteed air-conditioned bus, which is a bonus and you get a free meal (included in your ticket price). You will arrive at your destination safe and sound without the hassle of dodgy bus companies.
Karla Snook (Mar 98)

Bangkok Airways force you to pay a surcharge of 1250 Baht on the flights Bangkok-Ko Samui and Ko Samui-Bangkok effective from 1 February, 1998, even if you have a valid and paid ticket for these destinations. All other destinations are not affected.
Peter Steiner (Mar 98)

Recently I travelled to Ko Lanta which is south-east of Ko Phi Phi. To update ferry times, there is a boat that leaves Ko Phi Phi every day at 2pm for Ko Lanta, not at 1pm.
Don Curtis (Mar 98)

Krabi airport is due to open in February 1999.
Mr A Throp - UK (Mar 98)

An alternative route to Ko Samui is to fly London to Singapore and then on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays, fly Singapore to Ko Samui by Bangkok Airways. Ko Samui is now an international airport with customs and immigration clearance.
David F Latchford - UK (Mar 98)

The airport in Trang is actually two airports, although very few people seem to know this. So, if you are flying Thai Air, make sure you are in the super modern terminal on the west side of the airport, not the smaller one. All of the private taxis will drop you off at the smaller one, so make it clear to them you need the big one. This is particularly confusing since there are no signs at all to indicate the existence of two terminals, and the airport staff seems to assume that it you are at the old terminal, you want to be there, even if there are no scheduled flights out of there for weeks.
Vanessa Sterling (Feb 98)

The train station opposite Bangkok airport has a helpful and efficient advanced booking office, where I was able to book a train to Chiang Mai for the same evening that I had flown in. This made the journey much easier than having to go into the city to do it.
J J Friar - UK (Feb 98)

There is a possibility to reach Kanchanaburi from New Sukhothai if you want to avoid Bangkok. You can take a bus from Sukhothai, direction Bangkok. You go by bus to a small town called Suphanburi. There you can stay at the Suphan KAT Hotel for 220 Baht for one night. Suphanburi is a town without any sights and without tourists. There is just spoken Thai, no English at all, but the people there will help you if you use the Thai dictionary in the Lonely Planet (or if you use your hands or your feet). In the morning you go by bus from Suphanburi directly to Kanchanaburi.
Martin Schmitt - Germany (Feb 98)

There is a speedboat (and an express boat) from Ko Samui to Ko Tao. The speedboat leaves from Bo Phut at 8.30am daily and takes one and a half hours to get to Ko Tao. There is a return service from Ko Tao to Ko Samui at 9.30am and 3pm (Bo Phut) daily costing 450 baht one way.
Edward Nicholson (Feb 98)

Since 1 February 1998 there is a surcharge of 1250 Baht on the Bangkok-Samui and Samui-Bangkok flight. A ticket costs 2650 Baht + surcharge 1250 = 3900 Baht for a single trip! This doesn't include the 100 Baht airport tax on Samui.
Bert Eijnthoven - Netherlands (Feb 98)

ChiangMai: Local buses are no longer available. You have to take a tuk-tuk (pg.456).
E J Jorissen - Netherlands (Feb 98)

Direct flights between Bangkok and Siem Reap are up and running, operated by Bangkok Airways. We got a round trip ticket Bangkok-Phnom Penh (Bangkok Air) - Siem Reap (Royal Air Cambodge) - Bangkok (Bangkok Air) for $205.
Nat & Rob (Jan 98)

I saw a travel agency here in Chiang Rai that is offering a trip from Chiang Rai to Jing Hong (China) via Luang Prabang by river boat. Unfortunately, I don't know any details because I didn't stop in at the time and have since lost the place. It IS here though, so anyone passing through and interested in the idea should do some shopping around.
V V Williams (Jan 98)

Bangkok Airways recently started flying from Bangkok to Phnom Penh for US$75. By far the best deal.
Joris Postema & Kim den Boer - Netherlands (Jan 98)

If you rent a moped in Chiang Mai, traffic cops are out in force around the Tha Pae gate at the end of the month (20 to 30 on foot) and they will stop and ticket you if you aren't wearing a helmet. Especially now with the recent crackdown on corruption in Thailand, they are more likely to ticket you and less likely to let you out of it. If the safety reasons don't cause you to wear a helmet, then financial reasons should.
Ted Hillestad - USA (Jan 98)

Trains from Trang city to Kantang are leaving only a few times a day. Instead you can take mini-buses (air conditioned) leaving from behind the train station at the Kantang Road (not at the bus terminal), going to Kantang.
Lieuwke Loth - Netherlands (Jan 98)

We tried to take our booked plane from the Phitsanulok airport but unfortunately it was the wrong airport. We had tickets of the new company Bangkok Air which built a new airport half an hour away from Sukhothai. It was good luck that it was possible to get the same flight one day later without losing money. So if anyone buys a ticket for a plane leaving next to Sukhothai, Thai Air starts at Phitsanulok and Bangkok Air starts half an hour north of Sukhothai.
Astrid Schinharl - Germany (Jan 98)

In Bangkok, the new address for Qantas and British Airways is : 14th Floor, Abdulrahim Place, 990 Ruma IV Rd. Bangkok.
In HoChi Minh City, Thai airways moved to No.44, still in Nguyen Pu St., Dist 1.
John Reesby - Australia (Jan 98)

TAT and most tourist brochures inform tourists that the bus services for neighbouring towns and beaches outside of Phuket town run until 5 or 6pm back from the beaches. The fact is if you leave after 3pm there is a slim chance of seeing a bus heading back into Phuket. Drivers tell tourists: a) they have finished for the day, wait for the next bus (which doesn't show up); b) they will make a special trip for you for 200 Baht; or c) to take a tuk-tuk for 200 Baht (here the bus driver gets a commission from the taxi driver).
J L Gauthier (Dec 97)

Flying in on a one-way ticket, you now need a visa. In London this will cost you ú8 per entry and takes three days. However, you can get it on the same day for ú40, regardless of numbers of entries.
Hanne Finholt, Norway (no date)

I recently returned from a month long trip to Japan and Thailand. While in Thailand, my boyfriend and I took a guided trek into the mountain jungles around Mae Hon Song. At about one oÆclock in the morning, Karen soldiers entered the hut where we were staying and started shining lights into our eyes and arguing about us with the village women who were taking care of us. We know that at least one of the soldiers had an automatic rifle. The soldiers finally left and we were able to make it through the night without any more disturbances. There were three people on the trek that all spoke perfect Thai, my boyfriend, another Thai woman and the Thai womanÆs sister-in-law. We learned from some of the porters that the villagers bribed the soldiers with food and moonshine in order for them to leave us alone. Instead of staying a second night as planned, we hiked all the way out the next day.

The next morning the Thai speakers started asking some of the people in town about some of the things that happened. They said that a few days before we left for our trek, at least two guided tour groups disappeared. They were also very surprised that we made it back at all. The only reason I was able to find this out was because I was with Thai speakers. If you are planning on going trekking, avoid the border areas as there is constant political/military turmoil erupting along the borders, particularly with Myanmar.
Jennifer Thompson, USA (Mar 99)

Chinese tea served in most restaurants is not all safe since some is made from a small pot of boiled Chinese tea mixed with a big bucket of unboiled (tap) water served with ice.
Dirk Hartwig (Feb 99)

Thailand is now going through a period of little tolerance to certain drugs, particularly amphetamines. To be caught with a few speed tablets could land you in big trouble. Apparently the crack down on amphetamines has come down from the Royal Family and the police seem to be taking a more active role than usual 'slip me some baht and we'll forget about it'. I advise anyone to stick well clear of them and the 'Kohn Kaen Killer' gunja that is spoken about.
Geoff Jackson - Australia (Jan 99)

During the rainy season, even until mid-December, you might face a storm if taking the night boat from Chumphon to Koh Tao. This is absolutely not a fun experience, not to mention that it could be possibly tragic - one boat went down in October 98.
Anna Tryc, Poland (Jan 99)

My girlfriend is working for a Dutch rescue company working for different insurance companies who help tourists on their holidays in a foreign country. This week, THREE reports came in about single travelling tourists found wounded or killed in Bangkok. The story goes that the last thing they all (except the deceased one) remembered was the taxi driver offering them a cookie. The two who could tell the stories were severly injured and robbed of all their belongings.
Robert Vriesman (Dec 98)

Dengue Fever is now lasting six or seven days and is very common in Ko Samui, Ko Tao, etc.
Tracy Elofson (Dec 98)

Koh Samui: the roads on the island are a death trap, with lots of speeding vehicles overtaking on corners, and plenty of tourists riding motorbikes with bare legs and arms, and no helmets. A common sight is town was scabby knees and calves. Motorbike hire is for the brave and foolhardy.

Beware of tuk tuk drivers around Wat Pho who claim that the temple is close due to a public holiday - it is open every day; the entrance is around the side, not on the main road.
Carolyn Johnson & Craig Barrack (Dec 98)

A word of caution for all you amateur motorcyclists planning to take on the roads of Ko Phangan. Although the local shops are ready to rent their bikes out to anyone, they neglect to warn you that the roads, particularly the one between Bantai Beach and Hat Rin, are absolutely atrocious. On a recent visit there, my friend and I hired a bike and faced a terrifying ten minutes on the steepest dirt road imaginable, before coming to an even more terrifying end down a five foot ditch off the side of the road. Fortunately, some fellow Australians came to our aid and drove us to the village nurse who treated our cuts and burns. She also informed us that every week without fail, she treats tourists who have crashed their bikes on that same stretch of road; just the day before an Englishman needed 20 stitches to a head wound and was very lucky to be alive. She also told us that in the past, others have not be so lucky. So, for those of you who, like me, tend to have no fear and believe you are invincible, think twice before jumping on a bike with no experience. Although they are great fun, they are also very dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.
Belinda Brown, Australia (Nov 98)

I felt that my safety was in jeopardy on the high speed boats from Ko Samui to Ko Tao and Chompson. Although the speed boats save a little time, the safety, conditions and judgement of the crew is sometimes circumspect.
Jim Manheimer, USA (Oct 98)

An unfortunate effect of the economic recession has been an increase in the numbers of muggings on late night buses in the suburbs of Bangkok: six cases have been reported in recent months compared with six in the last five years. Typically, two or three men board a late bus in the quieter, newer parts of town and use weapons to extort money and other valuables from passengers before fleeing on motorbikes. The bus routes that have been affected so far are numbers 80, 145, 146, 107, 116 and 46, mainly in the Sukhapibal (Ramkhamhaeng), Phahonyothin, Banga-Trat and Phetkasem areas. Thai police have advised passengers not to fight back. Pickpocketing and cutting bags open is also on the increase on crowded buses, especially in rush hours after month end paydays. The worst hit areas are around Victory Monument, Pratunam, Morchit (near Chatuchak) and Wong Wien Yai in Thonburi.
Martin Searle, Thailand (Oct 98)

On the 21st October a ferry travelling from Surat Thani to Koh Tao sank in heavy seas with at least 15 persons (including two Australians) confirmed dead. Allegedly the driver ignored storm warnings and flouted safety regulations: the boat was overcrowded and did not carry sufficient life vests or rafts.

Ferries and longtail boats in southern Thailand (including Krabi-Rai Leh, Krabi-Koh Phi Phi, and Phi Phi-Phuket) do not appear to keep adequate safety equipment on board. Ferries still have far fewer life vests than passengers, and none I saw or travelled on carried life rafts or additional flotation devices.
John Lam-Po-Tang, Australia (Oct 98)

I feel you should notify people of the dangers inherent in staying at the resort in Ko Nang Yuan. The cabins are spread out over three islands. Two of them are connected by a permanent sandbar, but the other connection is a sandbar which disappears at high tide. We had to swim across the channel at night to get to our cabin. No one warned us of the dangers of this - in fact the staff indicated that it is passable day or night. The resort also ignores safety when it transports travellers on its high speed boat back to Koh Samui as there are not enough life jackets for the number of passengers the boat takes on. When it leaves Ko Nang Yuan the boat is not over-crowded but it stops along the way to take on additional passengers without regard to safety.
Marsha Lipets-Maser - USA (Oct 98)

Just a note to warn travellers to Thailand that between February and March each year, bushfires in the hills around Mae Hong Son frequently cause the airport to close. I was stuck in Mae Hong Son for two days waiting for the smoke to clear. In the end I had to hire a mini bus for my return to Chiang Mai (at a cost of 3000B) - a six hour drive up through the mountains as opposed to the half hour flight. According to Thai Airlines, the fires are common each year when hill tribes from Thailand and Burma clear land for farming.
Shane Noyce, Australia (Oct 98)

Dengue Fever is raging in Thailand and Cambodia. I had the unpleasant experience first hand in Chiang Mai this July and the unusually hip doctor explained that as of July, reported cases in Thailand were as much as 100% above the annual average. My friend and I were the only farangs suffering from it in this particular hospital, but there were floors full of afflicted Thais. The most important thing to remember is that it is not just in the rural areas! I knew someone who hadn't left Chiang Mai in months and had gotten it.
Everyone should stay close to good medical treatment after any unusual fevers - Dengue can ravage you for a day, then go away making you think it was food poisoning or the flu. But in two to four days, it may strike by causing your white blood cells to plummet or your platelets to practically disappear overnight.
Kelley Gary, USA (Sep 98)

In February 1998, the Thai police department issued a notice saying that foreign women should not travel alone in Thailand. They cannot guarantee their security. This was published in the Bangkok Post.
Patrick Andrivaux, France (Sep 98)

Beware of sharks when snorkelling at Shark Point, Ko Phi Phi. There are sharks here (at least 10 feet) and they don't wear signs saying 'I'm a vegetarian' or 'I've already had dinner'.
Rene Burgsma & Rob Zwerink - Netherlands (Jul 98)

I have to warn everyone about snorkelling on Phi Phi Island. I was hit by a taxi-boat and this has happened to other travellers as well.
Atte Jussi (Jul 98)

Last month I was in a nasty bus accident in Thailand. The driver fell asleep at the wheel and the bus careened off the road, rolling over into a field. Luckily, no one was killed (that I know of), but a few of us were badly injured. The injured were collected off the road by these 'body collectors'. From what I understand, these men are paid per body they bring in (dead or alive). This was nearly as bad as the accident, as I was carried by my hands and feet and thrown into the back of a pick-up truck with no regard for my back and neck injuries! While in the hospital, I learned how commonly this happens, but no one is doing anything to change things. My advice is that you should never take a non-government bus in Thailand. Your best bet is the train.
Kimberleigh Schartz (Jul 98)

While travelling in Bangkok this July, we came across a new scam while trying to go to Wat Po. An individual approaches you in the heat and humidity and says that the temple is closed due to a Buddhist Monks day and that you will not get in. He argues/continues this story, impressing on you that you must observe Thai custom. Not wanting to appear ignorant of Buddhist and Thai custom, you believe him. He then arranges to take/send you to another equally/more interesting temple in the area, with a complimentary stop-off at a very good Thai Shopping centre with great discounts! In the heat, you agree to go. You then realise when you get to the dull, uninteresting temple that you have been conned. When you get to the 'shopping centre', it's the usual tailor shop, and the staff are very, very insistent that you purchase suits, shirts, etc. It cost me only 75B for the experience, but a whole afternoon was wasted. What a mug I was! I have heard this has also happened to two different friends this summer. Pass the word around that Wat Po is open from 10am to 8pm, with no Buddhist holidays.
Hamish Scott-Brown (Jul 98)

The three beaches in front of Pattaya City (Naklua Bay, Pattaya Bay and Jomtien) are very polluted at the moment. In particular, Pattaya Bay currently has a coli bacteria count of over 1.800 and the city is warning against swimming in the ocean.
Kevin Soerensen - Denmark (Jul 98)

We travelled overnight from Bangkok to Chiang Mai and were somehow drugged, either through the air-conditioning or the complimentary drinks. While we were sleeping someone took our small, padlocked backpack from between our feet and rifled through it, stealing about US$100. Another woman on the bus had ú700 in travellers cheques stolen from the money belt around her waist. The thief had to reach over her burly husband to get the cheques so the drugs must be strong. Considerate thieves though, they left us both with just enough money for the airport departure tax!
Ana Moore (Jun 98)

Dengue Fever warning, Koh Pha Ngan: Dengue Fever is a major problem on this island. My boyfriend and I were there on different occasions, March and May, and we both caught it. A significant number of people we met had also caught it.
Ralfaella (Jun 98)

Nearby, at Phu Faek, Kalasin, are the footprints of a large theropod (carnivorous dinosaurs encompassing popular genera like Tyrannosaurus and Velociraptor) and those of a smaller herbivore.

Phu Si Than Wildlife Sanctuary near Kuchinarai has also made interesting finds including the detailed remains of fish, fern, crocodile, turtle and rare dinosaur of the Jurassic. The sanctuary has many points of interest. Key among them is Phu Pha Pung, a low-lying mountain with a beautiful mountain wat near the peak. The wat provides an excellent view of the lowlands and protects both ancient hand prints and some odd geologic features of the Phu Phan formation. Limestone nodules (also found at Phu Luang National Park, Loei), natural rock bridges and an array of caves and deep crevasses (similar to those at Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park, Phitsanulok) provide tourists with a captivating landscape. These features are also surrounded by healthy mixed deciduous forest. The abbot on the mountain top speaks English, Japanese and Mandarin. The caves, currently used as meditation areas for monks, were once hide-outs for Communist rebels in the 1960s and 70s as well as the Seri Thai fighting the Japanese in WWII. The base of Phu Pha Pung is easily accessible by car and a gentle, well-groomed trail makes the hike quite comfortable.
Chris Mendel, USA (Apr 99)

For people who have rented a car to explore Thailand, an option I would warmly recommend is Magic Hill - a must. Magic Hill is on Highway 105 from Sukhothai to Mae Sot. When coming from Sukhothai itÆs about 15km before Mae Sot after passing a temple with a big naga on the left side of the road. Magic Hill is a little hill on this highway; there are signs indicating the place. It is the only place I know where cars drive uphill by themselves. We were rather sceptical but had to have a got at it. We stopped our car on the side of the road, switched off the engine and sure enough the car started slowly going UP the hill. It stopped after a while without rolling back down. We tried it several times - truly magic. Check it out!

The absolutely best thing about Hat Sai Khao is the fluorescent (or phosphorescent) sea at night. If you go swimming at night you will be able to make your own stars just by moving the sea water with your arms and legs. I donÆt know what causes it but it is an out-of-this-world experience. When you move your legs or arms in the water, they will cause the water to light up and by moving your hands you create a comet-like tail of little green stars. Some locals told me it is there every night, but obviously it is best during a new moon. Words fail me to describe it; best to go and see for yourself!
Elisabeth Weingraber-Pircher, Thailand (Feb 99)

An easy day trip and a fantastic escape out of busy Bangkok is to take a boat out to the island of Ko Kret. It's a very peaceful island to walk around - there's a shop where you can buy ceramic pots and a couple of wats to walk around, but for the most part you'd visit just to take a look at some typical Thai scenery. Definitely worth a visit for those people who like less touristy places. To get there you take the Chao Phraya River express boat to the last stop (Nonthaburi); on the left hand side of the pier (facing away from the river) are a group of long tailed boats. You need to tell them you want to go to Ko Kret, and then bargain for a price (we paid about 300 baht). They'll take you there and leave you to walk around for a few hours. To get back it's best just to stand at the pier and wait - boats travel past all the time and someone will take you back to Nonthaburi.
Emily Moller, Thailand (Jan 99)

When I was in Thailand I went to the Mon village in Kanchanaburi by the river Kwai. Mon are the indigenous people of Thailand. The village is built on rafts over the river and is a very impressive place. Whilst I was there, I was fortunate enough to be able to participate in a religious ceremony. All the people in the village go to the temple in the jungle with gifts. I saw a four year old child carrying a baby on his back. The Mon children had their faces sprinkled with powder to protect them against bad spirits. In the evening I saw a wonderful dance performance. Small children, young women and men danced for us in fabulous dresses. Their dance was much more dynamic, mystical and joyful than traditional Thai dancing. Of course this Mon village is a little commercial, supported by the owner of the hotel in which I stayed; the village makes a living through the tourists. But I went away from here with the conviction that I had experienced something unusual. I have photographs from my time in the village and every time I look at them I feel like going back there - immediately.
Ewa Grabowska, Poland (Oct 98)

Many of the travellers I met in Thailand seemed in a desperate rush to cover Bangkok - Hat Yai - Penang in one go or vice versa. However, a magical town known as Trang is well worth a visit.
Since this laid back town isn't on the travellers' hit list, the local Thais often looked or spoke of surprise at my presence there. I was only meant to stay one night as I needed to get back to work in Penang, however, I ended up staying a week. Within a week most people and places became very familiar and the locals were incredibly friendly (a refreshing change to the general business manner of the locals in central Bangkok). I was repeatedly exposed to the Thai's laid-back, warm personalities with free motorbike hire, complimentary drinks and a trip to see the national pride, Thai boxing, with a Thai shop owner and his family I had befriended on the first day. This bustling Thai town is steeped in Thai customs and traditions and goes about its daily life in its own way regardless of how many 'farang' are present. Not one shout of 'tuk tuk' could be heard or jewellers' scam mentioned - relief!
Hannah Rumble, UK (Sep 98)

Under www.thaiairways.com, Tourism Authority of Thailand, Festival of Events, I found a listing of all Festivals from 1 January 1998 to 31 December 1998. The dates stated for the Vegetarian Festival are 20 to 28 October 1998. On this subject, it reads, "this annual festival originated among immigrant workers during the 19th century and remains one of Phuket's major events. Residents of Chinese ancestry undertake a ten day vegetarian diet, and there are ceremonies at local Chinese temples and parades that feature remarkable feats by ascetic believers."
Suzi, The Thorn Tree (Aug 98)

On a recent trip to Thailand we enjoyed the end of our trip at the Krabi Resort on the Andaman Coast. After all the hoopla about Phuket, we were pleasantly surprised by the less commercial atmosphere of Krabi. The Germans there have kept it a good secret! But alas, a new airport is due to be completed late 1998, to provide jet service there from Bangkok and elsewhere. No doubt, the inevitable will follow. If you are looking for a great respite from the tourist machine on Phuket, think Krabi. You'll have a great time. (p.s. ferries to Phi Phi are cheaper and the trip shorter from Krabi).
Harold E Gosse (Aug 98)

From the bus terminal in Phuket, we took an air-conditioned taxi to the Gibbon Rehabilitation project and the nearby waterfall. The path to the waterfall goes right through the jungle and gets wet and slippery in some places. The waterfall itself is not big but the path leading to it made it worth visiting. The gibbon project trains gibbons that had been captured to survive in the wild again. It is run solely by volunteers and depends on the donations that people leave. It was interesting to see and especially hear the gibbons, who have become extinct on Phuket.
Detlef Geerlings (Aug 98)

An interesting place to see in Thailand is Wat Po (the Bat Temple) in Bangkla, a small village approximately 25 minutes by bus from Chacheungsao. Wat Po is inhabited by literally thousands of fruit bats. The monks in the area will not allow the locals to kill these bats so over the years their population has multiplied. If you visit during the day, you only have to look up at the trees to see an amazing spectacle. Although dusk is the prime time to visit. At this time, as though signalled by an alarm, the entire bat population takes to the air. They circle over the temple and the river for several minutes and then all travel across the town toward the local fruit orchards, returning in the morning. It is incredible. You should be careful, however. On my first day of a one month excursion of Thailand, I was looking skyward when one of the bats decided to urinate. Of course, it landed in my eye, committing me to a month long series of rabies vaccinations. Talk about a story to tell back home.
Geoff Lipscomb (Jul 98)

A visit to Phuket town will probably not be the most exciting part of one's trip to Phuket; it's crowded and fairly non-descript except for the interesting architecture. Just recently, however, I discovered a fantastic restaurant called Natural Restaurant at 62/5 Soi Phutorn Bangkok Road. Just one step inside and all of a sudden one is out of the concrete jungle of Phuket town into... well... a Swiss Family Robinson's tree house - Thai style. Thick vegetation keeps the tile floors permanently damp. There are waterfalls everywhere with antiques and other weird items stuck in the rafters. It can be hot and sunny outside but inside it's always cool, damp and dark. It was once an old residence but now there are many dining rooms inside and tables crammed everywhere outside covered with a thick canopy of vegetation. There's a phone at every table to communicate directly with the kitchen (but I didn't see anyone using these), and two tree-house dining rooms with winding wooden staircases for access. Loaded with atmosphere.
T Hartall (Jun 98)

It may not be your shopping area, but it's worth a visit just for the sight. Where else can you see three floors of Mercedes Benz that you can bargain over? The Market for the Former Rich (no joke, that's the name), on Soi #19 off Soi Thonglor (Sukhumvit #55) started after the economic crises in 1997. The formerly rich sell their prized possessions for cash at dumping prices, at least by Thai standards. You may be able to pick up an airplane, yacht or an antique Mercedes for a few ten thousand dollars. You might also get a bargain on jewellery, dresses and other small items. It's worth a look, even if you do not buy. The market is held every weekend next to the Mercedes dealership.
Wolf Kadavanich (Jun 98)

Chiang Kham Festival: this was one of the most genuine events we saw and was not intended for tourists at all. When staying in southern Thailand in Ayuttaya we saw a poster there announcing a festival in Northern Thailand: Phayao Annual Tai Lua Legendary Festival, 7 to 8 March, Wat Phrathat Sobvan, Amphoe Chiang Kham, Phayao Province, TAT Northern Office Region 2, Phone: (053) 717 433.
There was no English programme available but we got a copy of the programme in Thai from the Tourist Information/Police in Chiang Rai. It was a folkloric cultural festival showing the culture of Tai Lua people, an ethnic group having immigrated from China. We were the only farangs there besides one America Peace Corps worker working there (there is a lot of AIDS in this area) and one American teacher living near Chang Rai. There was a lot of local foods, clothes, silk, etc at local prices. In the afternoon there was a nice parade of the local folk. Water throwing at us was practised extensively especially at me when we were walking past the parade on our way to the bus station.
Viktor Weisshaeupl - Austria (Apr 98)

Phuwiang has been a National Park since 1991. It has many dinosaur fossils including the world's oldest Tyrannosaurus. A number of bones are on display in the visitor centre and others can be seen in situ in the forest. Everything is gradually being translated into English and by the time I leave in December 1999, there should be some English speaking staff. There is a 4km trail to the top of Phuwiang Mountain which will eventually have some wildlife interpretation on it. There is not yet any official accommodation but accommodation can be arranged in a guesthouse, or it is possible to camp if you have your own tent. There is a shower and toilets. There are regular buses from Khon Kaen to Phuwiang town from where you have to rent a motorbike taxi the last 18km to the park. Phuwiang is an ideal place to visit for people stranded in Khon Kaen waiting for Laos visas and most of the foreigners who come here are on their way to Laos.
Alison Smithies - Thailand (Mar 98)

The Siam Chiang Mai Cookery School, also called Center Place Thai Cookery School is excellent.
5/2 Loikroa Rd Soi 1, Chiang Mai, 50100. Phone: 6653 271169; Fax: 6653 208950.
Parn Parnee Chookitjkoon head chef will conduct a class even if there is just one student. When you arrive she hands you an apron and a knife and you get to work. After the first course, you sit down and eat. That continues all day, until you think you will burst. She is a wonderful teacher and a fabulous chef. The course runs from 10am - 4pm, and costs 700B per day (this includes three different courses and a cookbook).
Cheryl Swishen - USA (Nov 97)

Not in your guidebooks, but definitely worthwhile is the temple Wat Thawet, near New Sukothai. A little Wat with 30 or so beautiful sculptures from various Buddhist legends. It was all built in 25 years by one monk, who died two years ago. His son is not the headmonk, a very friendly Thai who studied in the US. If you've got some cement sculpture skills, they really need a hand with the maintenance of the sculptures. To get there, take the road from New Sukothai to Sukothai Airport (about 10 minutes on a scooter), or ask at Ban Thai Guesthouse.
Koos Wolthuis (Oct 97)

Tired, I lay back in the chair and closed my eyes as the barber skilfully disposed of my lazy week-long growth. My bliss was momentarily interrupted by the cold, pointy ends of a pair of scissors up my nose - I guess those nasal hairs needed trimming anyway. Relaxing again, I was more rudely awoken by a very foreign sensation - that of a razor on my earlobe! It seems that Thai barbers attack any stray hairs on oneÆs head. Around me I saw razors shaving ear rims and lobes, foreheads, the gap between the eyebrows, and necks, front and back. Further options included an ear and nose cleanout using fine, surgical-looking instruments and cotton wool. Travellers beware - you may get more than your average haircut and shave at an Asian barber!
Raj Lucas, Australia (Apr 99)

After a night on the Sang Thip while in Thailand over the summer, I was unfortunate enough to have an accident with a pot-hole which left my face battered and bleeding. Owing to the cuts on my face I was unable to shave for a number of weeks. Being of Mediterranean looks, this meant I was some way near to sporting a full beard. When the cuts healed over, I decided to treat myself to a shave at a barber shop. The shave went well and after a splash of cologne and a quick smoothness check, I paid the lady and went on my way feeling smooth and happy. On my way to meet friends later in the evening I heard a lot of people laughing as I walked by. Not being of a paranoid nature I thought nothing of this and went about my business quite happily. It was only later when one of my friends invited me to look in his mirror that I realised that I had been walking about with one (only one) big mamma of an Elvis sideburn. I must say I did feel a bit of an eijit. Fair play to the lady though. I reckon sheÆs entitled to take the piss out of the farangs - I know I would.
Jamie Hinks, UK (Feb 99)