SOLOMON ISLANDS

  • Travel Tips
  • Moving About
  • Scams & Warnings
  • Gems, Highlights & Attractions

    Travel Tips

    If staying in Buala, or its surroundings, you should take all necessary food from Honiara, as the small local shops do not carry much stock.
    Guido Schaffner, Germany (Dec 98)

    The primary school children have absolutely nothing to read here; I discovered that the very best gifts to take with you are Golden Books - you can get them cheaply at St Vincents or the Salvation Army.

    If sailing near Ramos Island, ask permission of the fishermen at Mbita-ama Harbour before anchoring, as it is a sacred place for their dead. The seas around the island are deep blue and the visibility perfect, but diving is dangerous due to the strong currents.
    Darrell Tully, Australia (Dec 98)

    There are numerous Chinese restaurants just inland of the main street in Honiara. They vary widely in standard - the good cooks move frequently as they get poached by opposition restaurants - so try asking a local for suggestions. The main market has recently moved closer to town and is now situated on the waterfront, on the road to the airport. It is not too far to walk, but it does get hot. It is great for fresh fruit and fish, which is unloaded while you watch. You should also try the hot bread shops which are in abundance, although the cream buns are probably best avoided!

    Shells are everywhere available for purchase, but beware that if you're buying shells that have been harvested for sale, you could be contributing to their extinction. The most common jewellery is made out of black oyster shell which is apparently prevalent.

    Guadalcanal: towards Tambea is a clam farm beside the road which is interesting for a visit, especially if you can't get out to one of the places with giant clams. Nearby is a track leading down to the water with access to a sunken submarine. It is very good for diving, but not so great for snorkelling, although the surrounding reef is good. You should go at high tide, otherwise crossing the reef is a pain - too shallow to swim (unless you do a huge detour) and too deep to walk without major damage to the coral. The price has recently gone up to SI$20 per person. There is also a spot along the road to Tambea that leads to a sunken Corsair fighter which is easily accessible and great if you want a photograph of yourself in the cockpit. There are also a couple of resident turtles here. Near the clam farm is a WW2 museum where you can see several planes, field guns, memorial stones, helmets, jerry cans and coke bottles. Unfortunately, there is no information at the site, so it would be worth attaching yourself to one of the tours organised by the hotels. Also, cover yourself in insect repellent as the place is alive with bugs (and quite a few cane toads).

    Gizo: local fruit, etc. for picnics is available at the market on the main street. There is also a women's collective-run restaurant.

    Marovo Lagooon: at the mouth of the Mbili Passage is a downed US bomber in the jungle.
    Sara Richards, New Zealand (Nov 98)

    Solomon Airlines does not accept visa or other credit cards for amounts under $1000; solo travellers will have to pay cash unless they are planning to stop at every airfield in the country! Also, the church-run Western Pacific airline that used to stop at all the small airfields in Western Province has closed down. Solomon Airlines is planning to take over some if its routes but this is yet to happen. If these changes affect you, the people at the Visitor Centre in Honiara may be able to suggest alternatives.
    Sara Richards, New Zealand (Oct 98)

    Liapari Island no longer has accommodation. But a new rest-house near Vonunu at Melasde Village has just been opened. Only transport is by canoe from Gizo and takes approximately one hour, depending on the seas. It's a good idea to radio the local clinic, school or church for bookings.
    Adrian Jowett, Australia (Aug 98)

    Moving About

    Western Pacific Airlines no longer exist or they do not fly in the Solomons any more. Therefore, Solomon Airlines is the only domestic carrier.
    It is important to remember that a SBD$40 departure tax is required to be paid at the airport on leaving on an international flight.
    Damon Burn, Australia (Jan 99)

    We travelled by bicycle. Most of the roads, especially the old logging ones, are all but impassable, except for those few main roads; there are many stretches of road indicated on different maps which are no longer passable. It would be feasible to go around Guadalcanal, but this would entail too much carrying to be in any way practical; it certainly could not be done with a fully-laden bicycle. The stretches of road we did tackle were enjoyable, but unless you can leave your bicycle somewhere, it will prove a rather unwieldy form of hand luggage for much of your trip.
    David Colquhoun, Scotland (Dec 98)

    The number one problem in Rennell is the transport; at present, there is only one truck obtainable for hire, and if there is an accident (a blow out is quite common), you will be lucky not to wait for days. There is one other truck available for medical services only. These two cars make up the total number of cars on Rennell Island.
    Guido Schaffner, Germany (Dec 98)

    Avoid the inter-island ships unless you're a really hardened traveller - they are usually filthy and not considered 100% seaworthy. For local trips the motorised canoes (usually fibreglass) are fine. Presently, the only airline is Solomon Airlines, the national carrier.
    Sara Richards, New Zealand (Nov 98)

    Western Pacific Airlines have currently discontinued operations in the Solomons for 1998. The internal carrier, Solomon Airlines, will only accept credit card payments for fares over S$1000, otherwise it's cash only.
    Adrian Jowett, Australia (Aug 98)

    There is a small airstrip at Atoifi that Western Pacific Airline makes flights to five days a week and any extra flights that are needed in case of medical emergencies. These flights are a 25 minute flight direct from Honiara.
    Kellie Orr - Australia (Feb 98)

    Scams & Warnings

    I recently returned from a holiday in the Solomon Islands, a beautiful place and the people are great. However, I had one very unpleasant encounter in one of the lodges in the Marovo Lagoon. Basically I was not told that I would have to pay petrol costs and transfer fees (S$50) on each boat trip. Petrol is charged at S$3 per litre. In addition, the more powerful the engine, the more fuel is consumed and therefore the higher the price. None of this was explained to me when I initially enquired about costs and I ended up with a huge bill and used up all my money.
    Tony Jacoby (Aug 98)

    Be careful if visiting the northernmost bay of Basilisk Harbour on Utupua Island: villagers from nearby Nembao village told us that this bay is known as a crocodile breeding place and an unfortunate Swiss yachtsman was killed there recently by crocodiles. The eastern bay, however, is said to be a safe place for anchoring yachts, snorkelling, etc.
    Kaspar Oberli, Switzerland (Aug 98)

    Gems, Highlights & Attractions

    Anyone longing to leave all that is familiar behind for a true venture into the unknown should consider a jaunt to the Solomon Islands. Never have I felt so comfortable being so far removed from the modern world. Electricity and running water are rarities outside the main towns, of which there are few. Villages are built of leaf and sticks, meals consist of coconuts that have fallen from the nearest tree and fish freshly speared off the island's edge, people are as warm and as generous as they can be and even the crocodiles politely keep to themselves as long as visitors respect local custom. A tourist infrastructure is pretty much non-existent so the adventure takes some effort, but the trip will certainly make for well-earned memories.
    Laura Sobel (Jan 99)

    Munda is one of my favourite places; the diving and fishing is unparalleled.
    Darrell Tully, Australia (Dec 98)

    Guadalcanal: night dives on Boneigi are highly recommended. Even for day dives and snorkelling, it is a great spot. Halfway between Honiara and Tambea, there are two wrecked Japanese transports (Boneigi I & II). There is a SI$5 per car charge to get into the beach area, where both wrecks are easily accessible. Boneigi II is about five meters offshore, partly sticking out of the water, dropping down to at least thirty meters; the other is slightly further offshore and a little bit deeper. Boneigi II has a very friendly resident green turtle, as well as fish which love to be fed. Both are swarming with fish, but visibility isn't always 100%. Be warned that the less frequented parking area at Boneigi I has been targeted recently by car thieves, so don't leave anything expensive in the car. The people who run the area are trying to combat the problem but it pays to be aware. Of course, if you're only snorkelling, you can keep an eye on the car anyway, as the parking area is on the beach. The diving shop attached to the Mendana Hotel can give some excellent advice and are the best people to talk to regarding the night dives.

    The diving is great just off Gizo, with lots of big fish, such as manta rays, as well as some big wrecks. The snorkelling is brilliant too.
    Sara Richards, New Zealand (Nov 98)

    A great place to visit in the Solomon Islands if you're willing to give up the luxury hotels, is Marovo Lagoon. It's about to become a World Heritage Site (or may be already by now) and is a huge lagoon in the Western Province. There are a number of eco-tourism lodges operating around the lagoon which are basic but generally clean and surrounded by stunning scenery and snorkelling. Scuba diving is only available at a couple of sites (like Uepi) as most lodges don't have electricity, let alone compressors! Make bookings through the Solomon Tourist Agency, PO Box 986 Honiara. Fax: 23986.
    Sara Richards - New Zealand (Aug 98)

    Manabusu is not on your map nor mentioned in your text. It is situated on the northern tip of the Mbareke Peninsula. There are many skilled carvers in my village using traditional custom methods i.e., no power tools. Indeed these carvers are major contributors to the art of the lagoon but have suffered for lack of visitors to view and to buy their wares, and have often wondered why this is so. I have now realised that many visitors to my country use you guide book and so are completely unaware of this major village's existence.
    Arthur Hendi - Solomon Islands (Oct 97)


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