In theory, camping is free at Maamaat Beach in Balade, but I would nevertheless avoid it. I suspect the local tribe is not happy about free campers. Youths from the local tribe asked us to pay CPF2000 for the night. We would have happily paid something, but this was clearly a ridiculous sum. We cycled on to Col d'Amos Camping instead, where for CPF500 you can camp without getting up anyone's nose.
Jim Young (Nov 98)
The camping situation has become very grim. We arrived three weeks after the cyclone in March 1996, which of course badly affected the north-east of the island. We took a tent just in case some accommodation was not available, but found most of the camping spots mentioned in your guide were no longer in existence - I don't know whether it was because of cyclone damage, or the political situation where the French seem to be becoming even less welcome in the north east than before, or just lack of campers. In particular the site at Touho had fallen into complete disrepair - not just cyclone damage - the bungalows were old and rusty and there were no toilets or epicerie - the building had gone. Only a rusty tap remained.
The road across the top of the island from Tiwaka to Kone is now fully sealed about half-way (the Kone side), while the other side has suffered severe cyclone damage and is being repaired - so if you are coming from the east coast to the west it can only get better. We found that throughout the island a lot of places had discounted their rooms - probably because of the cyclone damage - but there was also a dearth of tourists. In two weeks we came across only one other non-French tourist outside of Noumea. One new attraction is the Little Train - as it is known - its route is now marked in blue on all Noumea maps. The aquarium is now open 9.30 - 11.30am every day except Mondays.
Joan Edison - Australia (May 96)
NEW CALEDONIA
