If you run out of cash, it is very difficult to find a bank in Korea which will accept credit cards to do a cash advance. The German couple we met were running from bank to bank in Seoul and every bank refused to give
them money by using their credit card. We also had big problems with our Visa card. In Pusan we entered a big bank wishing to get a cash advance service with Visa. After 30 minutes of organising, telephoning and discussing, the officer said that our Visa cards were not valid. After assuring him that they were indeed valid (and another 30 minutes!), he told us that there was a mistake in the rules of his bank and that our cards were OK.
We had similar experiences in Taegu, where the bank officer had to organise a lot and make some international phone calls to his head office and to Visa before he was able to give us cash on our Visa card. So on the whole, bring plenty of cash with you and don't rely on your credit card in Korea. Travellers' cheques are a problem in many banks too: most times you will get your money, but it will need a lot of time and bureaucracy and you will have to answer huge form sheets.
Wolfgang Mohl, Austria (Jan 99)
For travellers landing at Kimp'o International Airport: unless you are staying at one of the top hotels, don't bother taking any of the limousine buses to get to the central Seoul area. Instead, head straight to the subway station located at the airport as it is much quicker and considerably cheaper.
Steven James (Nov 98)
Getting cash advances with your credit card is no longer a headache whilst travelling in Korea. A new ATM system called KANnet is available at most major subway stations (eg Ulchiro 3-ga, Chonggak, Youido). They accept most major cards.
We found the best way to explore Kyongju is to rent a car. Unlike other Korean cities, there is not much traffic in Kyongju, and the road is wider and clearly marked in English.
Mizushi Hajime, Japan (Oct 98)
If you want a nice day at the beach you should go to Chilpo beach which is about 10-15km north of P'ohang. Take a scooter if you can as the buses are infrequent and slow. The windy coastal drive is beautiful as you cruise between the rice terraces, and you can watch the squid boats heading out for their nightly run.
A good place to visit in P'ohang if you have a few days is Jukdo Market. This market houses some of the best and most diverse selection of fresh seafood in all of Korea. We witnessed everything from enormous octopi to what looked suspiciously like whale. Not a place for the faint-hearted but it enables a unique glimpse into a traditional Korean market. Also, if you take bus #105 out to the university district (Jigok) you can find a nice stretch of green grass and lots of open space.
Shawn Plummer, Canada (Oct 98)
If you need a cash advance on your Mastercard or VISA, the best place to go is the Korea Exchange Bank. They were the first and only bank authorised to do this in the past. Nowadays all the banks can perform the task but only the Korea Exchange Bank charges in Korean won: other banks ask for US dollars on your credit card and then change the dollars into Korean won at unfavourable exchange rates.
Ivan Dell'Era (Sep 98)
Seoul's cheapest netcafe is probably 'Highway' in Noryangin (Phone: 884 0730). It's pretty central and currently offers a special membership deal for foreign visitors that gives you a month's unlimited net time for the price of four movie tickets (around 20,000 Korean won -
about US$12!). They might be putting the price up in September though.
Kyle - The Thorn Tree (Jul 98)
I'm finishing up a two year contract for teaching here in Korea, and most teachers that I know have been either quite satisfied or close-minded and unable to adjust, caring only about the money. Most of us off the beaten track do not fall into the second category! Even with the fluctuating won, the pay is still good. In fact, most one year contracts have much higher salaries now. Most contracts are actually much better now because the seedier schools have all collapsed. My advice? Ask to talk to the teachers at the school before you sign. If you get a bad employer, it's hell, but there are plenty of good ones and they are dying for good teachers. It's just a matter of not going in with your eyes closed. If you have TESL or a year's teaching experience, the university positions are excellent. School boards are also quietly hiring now - go to the city's Ministry of Education.
Bradley Windsor (May 98)
Running parallel to the north of Kumnamro is Kwangju's Art Street. On this street you'll find small galleries and shops carrying traditional Korean prints, brushwork, pottery, ceramics, and woodcarvings by local artists. Kwangju is rather famous for these things, so it is definitely worth checking out if you are looking for good souvenirs or are interested in Asian art.
Kimberly Bristol - South Korea (Feb 98)
As far as entertainment goes, the Kaiserhof, which is the only place listed, is no longer the popular ex-pat hangout. These days everyone's going to a place called the Hard Rock CafΘ (not to be mistaken for the chain of Hard Rocks - though you couldn't tell from the sign - I'm sure if the real Hard Rock found out about it, the Hard Rock would have a lawsuit on its hands). This place doesn't fill up until around 11pm on Fridays and Saturdays. To get there, go down the small alley across from the Burger King near the downtown post office. Go about 50 metres and you'll see it on the second floor to your right.
Kimberly Bristol - South Korea (Feb 98)
We found it frustrating that very few places, even in Seoul, accept visa cards and so it is important to have plenty of travellers cheques.
Martin & Elizabeth Forbes - UK (Jan 98)
You can get free access to the internet at the KNTC Tourist Information Centre.
Peter Jakobsen - Denmark (Jan 98)
Generally if you are lost in Seoul you will have no problem finding English speaking people, but in other areas, you may run into difficulty. Make sure you stock up on information at the airport: the Korea Tourist Board puts out many colourful and informative pamphlets. As is probably the case in most countries, a smile goes a long way. Korean people may appear hesitant at first, but I have been struck by the real kindness and concern to ensure that we are comfortable during our stay here.
Wendy Coyle - New Zealand (Dec 97)
Work in Korea: a few words of guidance for those planning a sojourn in Korea. First, following the recent crash in the Asian stock market, the Won has been in a rather precarious state of flux, so anyone who is interested in following that old will-o-the-wisp of the lucrative English teaching racket in Korea should rethink their plans. The good ol' days are over my friends, and unless you are able to get a clause added to your contract which allows for an inflationary-based adjustment, or better yet get paid in hard currency, then forget it for now. The won recently broke the 100 to the US dollar mark this past week and, although it has recovered somewhat, still is weak in the knees. Add to this list of woes the recent crackdown on under-the-table tutoring (thousands of expatriate workers were deported in one week), and you have a market which isn't worth courting unless you want to spend a year in Korea for the sake of experiencing Korean culture. You won't save much money for travelling further afield unless you live as ascetically as a monk. Also on the subject of contracts, the general consensus is they aren't worth the paper they are printed on, and are viewed as a referential tool rather than legal documents, and your rights as a foreign worker are basically nil in the eyes of the Korea Inc. judicial system.
Shane Howard - USA (Nov 97)
For those without a passport for whatever reason (left it in a hostel/foreign embassy, etc), the Shinahan Bank, in all cities, will accept a cash withdrawal off your visa card with ONLY your signature.
Richard Middleton - UK (Nov 97)
For those planning hiking excursions in the vast network of Korea's beautiful national parks, be aware that during the dry season there are newly ratified and rather draconian anti-smoking regulations in effect on mountain trails, enacted as a means of forest fire prevention. These are enforced zealously, to the tune of a 300,000 won fine, and there are always a few stories in the paper enumerating the weekly toll of offenders.
Shane Howard - USA (Nov 97)
To our surprise, our Visa cards and MasterCards didn't work in ATM machines in South Korea. We were told that the machines only accept national credit cards so unless your MasterCard or Visa card was issued in Korea there is no on-line connection to the international credit card networks. Fortunately, the cards are accepted in shops and restaurants.
Lars Terje Holmaas - Norway (Aug 97)
If you have a problem communicating with taxi drivers, contact Goodwill Guide Taxi. The drivers speak Japanese and English so you just ring for a taxi by telephone (3431-5100) or look out for the Goodwill Guide Taxi sticker on the rear window of the taxi. The Goodwill Guide Taxi also provides a concise tour guide of Seoul and its vicinity and has tourist information brochures and guide books. The fare is the same as a normal deluxe taxi.
Hyung - UK (Aug 97)
There is a ferry service between Pusan and Yantai. This is mentioned in the China guide but with few details and is completely omitted in the Korea guide. The ferry company is C&K Ferry Lines (tel 051 441 8888). The ferries from Pusan to Yantai run on Saturdays at 12 noon and the return ferry leaves on Thursdays at 7 am. The price one-way is US$120 or US$168 for a round trip.
Martin Sulev, Canada (Feb 99)
Seoul: subway line 7 now runs to Sanbong bus terminal; there is no need to get there by city bus or Korean Rail connections.
Hans Fix, Australia (Dec 98)
The subway in Seoul is the best mode of transportation. It is cheap! It's also clean, safe and if you can't get the names of the stops, use the numbers instead. The map highlights the routes nicely and passengers wanting to transfer to another track will find it extremely user-friendly.
If you are flying out of Seoul after your stay, you can check in at the downtown Korean City Air Terminal. You can go through all the formalities here: baggage, immigration, etc. For a small fee, you can be transported to the airport in the bus. The best thing about checking in at the KCAT is that when it comes to actually going through security at the airport, you need not stand in the long line with all the passengers! You are allowed to proceed through another gate (adjacent to the regular passenger queue) and walk straight through security.
Munindra Khaund, USA (Sep 98)
After some time in Seoul and a few days in Kyongju we travelled to Yosu via Pusan. The ferry from Pusan to Yosu no longer operates, but there is a direct bus (about three and a half hours).
Martin & Elizabeth Forbes - UK (Jan 98)
The good news is that more subway lines have been finished; most importantly the one leading to the airport.
The narrow gauge railway service from Inch'on to Suwon has been cancelled. The Korean Folk Village shuttle bus departs from Suwon station plaza. The last bus for Suwon station leaves outside the Folk Village at 3.30pm in Winter, and 4.30pm in Summer. But there are also direct buses from Chamsil.
Heike Hermanns - Korea (Jan 98)
There is a used-car dealership in Seoul that sells used cars and has English speaking salespeople. The main reason I mention this is because they will agree to buy your car back from you if your stay in Korea is only temporary! This is especially helpful to those visitors like myself who are here for a year or more and do not live in Seoul where public transportation is actually more convenient than a private car.
David P Ellis - USA (Nov 97)
Two updates for airline listings:
Korean Airlines: (02) 656 2000
Northwest Airlines: (02) 666 8700
David P Ellis - USA (Nov 97)
Smoking is not allowed on ANY buses, unless you happen to be the driver. A good half of the drivers I encountered (city, inter-city and express) smoked! Inter-city buses on the east coast may feel deathly slow, but it is a great way to meet the locals - this lead me to believe that it's customary to share your lunch with whoever you happen to be seated next to!
Richard Middleton - UK (Nov 97)
For domestic flights, you still need your passport (but not for the ferry, curiously). I didn't take mine to Cheju-do, and ended up being detained by immigration (in the domestic terminal trying to catch a domestic flight). I missed the flight simply because immigration wanted to "know my nationality".
Richard Middleton - UK (Nov 97)
Koreans have a tendency to put foreigners on the highest class possible. You must stress that you do NOT want first class seats on Tongril or Munganghwa Lo trains, or they will automatically sell it to you.
Nigel Foster - New Zealand (Oct 97)
One of my best experiences was visiting a bird sanctuary south of Yangyang. The location is perhaps a 20 minute walk from the coastal town of Namai Harbour. Unfortunately the journey from Yangyang requires two buses from the central terminal but the location in a rice paddy-filled valley on a pinetree covered knoll is utterly atmospheric. The trees on the knoll were covered with egret nests and it was possible to get to quite good views of these large (> 1 metre) white birds as they glided into the nests on top of the trees. This was perhaps the first time I have ever managed to get good pictures of birds. In addition the farmers were preparing the paddies for rice planting using oxen. Given that I visited there in spring perhaps I just happened to hit the sanctuary at just the right time but this proved to be one of the truly unique experiences I had in Korea and certainly off the beaten track.
Stephen Lowe, Canada (Jan 99)
I recommend that everyone visits the Chongdong Theatre (tel: 773 8960; http://www.chongdong.com), which is not mentioned in the LP book. You will find traditional dances and music performances of a very high quality - better than the performances at the folk village in Suwon. It's not cheap, but worth it.
We visited the Hallyosudeo Marine National Park which is not described in the LP. This is surely one of the highlights of Korea. Starting from Chungmun/Tongyong you can do very beautiful and exciting round trips on holiday ships to the many little islands. Beautiful landscape! Hallyosudeo is a good way to experience the south Korean island world if you only have a short time to visit. However, in Chungmun/Tongyong there is absolutely no English information booklet or English map, and no local tourist information. Nobody speaks English, not even in the better hotels.
Wolfgang Mohl, Austria (Jan 99)
The Folklore Museum in Kwangju (located in the same vicinity as the National Museum) is a must see! Not only does it represent traditional Korean life and culture, its presentation is aesthetically pleasing. Located in the same area is an art gallery which displays some of the Biennale's permanent exhibits on the second floor. There are other frequently-changing exhibits of local artists on the first floor. The Biennale Exhibit itself is a fascinating International Art Exhibit which is held every two years, with artists coming from all over Asia, Europe and America. Also, the government has built an impressive memorial for the May 18th Kwangju Massacre. It is most definitely worth a visit.
Melissa Carroll, Korea (Dec 98)
Travellers should pay more attention to Suwon. We found it to be a very nice day-trip (combined with the Folk Village) from Seoul, for those who only have a day or two to spend. At the foot of the hill, near the South Gate, there are many restaurants. You have plenty of time to have dinner before catching the subway back to Seoul.
Isabel Wilmink (Nov 98)
The night market at Insa Dong (Namdaemun Gate is an easy identifier to get there) is interesting. It stays open all night. However, not all the stores will be open throughout - they take turns to stay open. If you are tossing and turning in bed, head out to the market and get the best deals under the moon!
Munindra Khaund, USA (Sep 98)
The Chollanam-do area is famous for its Korean cuisine. It has, by far, the best Korean food I've ever tasted. Kwangju is the home of the annual Kim-Chi Festival held every autumn. If you're interested in tasting, making, buying, or just looking at all the different kim-chi dishes on display which range from looking mildly to extremely disgusting, and your tastebuds are up to trying the fiery hot Korean staple, there are people selling homemade kim-chi who are more than willing to give you a taste test. There are also several kim-chi contests, with a special category for foreigners. The festival lasts for three days and is held in south-western Kwangju at the Yumju Gymnasium. It can be reached by buses 138, 185, 578, 588, and 618.
Kimberly Bristol - South Korea (Feb 98)
If you want to find some amazing food and fun in South Korea, take a bus or train from Seoul to Chunchon. This is a beautiful place, nestled between mountains and offers a lot for travellers. For one, Chunchon is famous for its Dalk Kalbi - a popular chicken barbecue feast all over South Korea which originated in Chunchon. As for other things to do: if you want a semi-surreal experience, ask a cab driver from the train station to take you to the Chun do ferry port. It's not really a port, just a small embankment where a tiny little ferry, which carries more than its weight in chickens, tractors and people, takes a five minute journey over to a tiny little island where I think all of the onions for South Korea are harvested. Once there, walk along the path (there is only one), until you find a farmhouse. Say "Min Bak?" (because they do not speak English, German, etc, here). The farmer will say "neh" (yes). Min Bak is a rooming house - I have never been to one in South Korea as quaint as the one I stayed in on this tiny little "onion island". Here you can live just as the farmer does. Bring food with you and a cook stove if you want hot food. If you find yourself without food, don't worry - you can buy canned tuna and crackers at the tiny little variety store. The "ajumah" (older woman) who keeps this store is great and she will tell you that you are beautiful, in Korean of course.
Tamara J. Bahr (Oct 97)
SOUTH KOREA
