JAPAN

Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings

At Fukuoka, I was told by Immigration that to get a work visa for teaching English you must bring all the necessary paperwork, then wait three weeks or so whilst they "investigate." If everything checks out okay, they will give you a certificate which you must then take out of the country to get your actual work visa.
Kent Foster, USA (Nov 98)

When travellers fill out the yellow quarantine forms on arrival, they should be careful with their answers. A friend arriving from Thailand admitted to stomach problems and after being sent for a medical checkup, was isolated in quarantine for 10 days without a translator or any appropriate food (she was a vegetarian).
Dennis Nielsen (Sep 98)

There is now a Vietnamese Consulate in Osaka. The address is: 10F Estate Bakuro-cho Bldg, 1-4-10 Bakuro-cho, Chuo-ku, Osaka 541, Japan. Phone: (06) 263 1600; Fax: (06) 263 1770. A single entry visa takes a week to process and costs Ñ10,000.
John Hart Benson (Dec 97)

I was in Sendai last May and wanted to use an ATM machine to retrieve money from my Canadian account. I changed my Personal Identification Number (access number) to four digits as suggested, planning to withdraw cash wherever it was convenient. However, there is only one ATM machine in all of northern Japan that accepts internationally-issued cards! Luckily, it was in Sendai. It took me three days to find it - itÆs very well hidden behind the pay-park for a major department store (Fujisaki) on the main strip (Aoba-Dori). And the woman there spoke English amazingly well as a little added bonus for my worn-out poor-Japanese speaking head. It also turns out you can only withdraw off a credit card, preferably Visa or MC and not your bank access card.
Sarah Kirzinger, Canada (Apr 99)

Takayama, in the Hida District, was a worthwhile experience and provides a very economical means for travellers to visit nearly all of the local sights. The æToku Toku PassportÆ allows three days of admission to 18 sights at a cost of Ñ1500. Considering the admission cost for the Hida Folk Village alone is Ñ700, the Festival Floats Exhibition Hall is Ñ820 and most of the museums are at minimum Ñ200, I easily made the passport pay off. Also included are discount tickets for local restaurants. Everything in the passport is written in Japanese, however, a small map and photos help indicate which sights accept the passport. For restaurants, just flash the passport and hope they accept it. I believe the Toku Toku Passport can be purchased at all city information desks; mine was purchased at the Tensho-ji Youth Hostel.
Christine Tanhueco, USA (Mar 99)

I know two places where you can get a cash advance:
In Kyoto there are machines that accept foreign credit cards in the basement under Kyoto Tower. To get there, just cross the street from the railway station and go down one floor to the basement (don't get confused with all the cash machines on the ground floor).
In Hiroshima the cash machine outside Hiroshima Bank accepts foreign credit cards. To get there from the railway station, take tram no 1 and step off at Hondori. Hiroshima Bank is on your left hand side across the street.
Petter Magnusson, Sweden (Feb 99)

In Kyoto, you can get FREE internet and email use at the NTT showroom on Sanjo-dori/Kawaramachi-dori. It's also available at other NTT showrooms across Japan. The catch is that you have to use the email address they give you, rather than your own, and you can only use it for half an hour at a time. Still, can't argue with free access!
Alison Lane, UK (Dec 98)

One minor thing I found very annoying in Japan was the sending of postcards. The price of sending a normal postcard is about Ñ70. However, if you should write anything but the address on the right hand side of the card, it is then considered to be a letter, for which you are charged Ñ110. You might like to keep this is mind if you tend to be long-winded and write epic postcards.
Hayley Every, Australia (Dec 98)

Referring to the postcard above re sending postcards: they probably misunderstood because it's Ñ70 for a postcard within Japan and Ñ110 for all international postcards, so feel free to write away!
Suzy Okada (Jan 99)

We had problems in Sapporo using out mastercard credit card to withdraw money out of the bank. The staff at the communications centre sent us to Mogadishu-Tokyo Bank where we were able to withdraw money.
Lloyd Jones, Canada (Dec 980

It is cheaper by half to buy meals than to book accommodation with meals included.
Hans Fix, Australia (Dec 98)

I found some ATMs with Cirrus in both Kumamoto and Hakata railway stations. If you ask at the information desk, they will tell you where they are. I asked at the international help desk in Sapporo and they gave me a list of about four Cirrus ATMs.
Peter Boers (Nov 98)

Don't assume that the youth hostel in every town will be the cheapest place to stay; as they are often way out of town, you must also factor in the transport to get there.

It is a good idea to ask Tourist Information about your options. In Kagoshima, for example, I asked at the station about the cheapest places to stay and was given a sheet of several places in town that were cheaper that the hostel (including the transportation to and from). Another good reason to visit the tourist information office is to ask about places where there is free internet access. In almost every large town the main NTT office has a multimedia centre where anyone can go for half an hour or so and surf the web. In places where is gets too popular, they either cancel it altogether (Osaka) or don't allow you to access e-mail (Fukuoka). In Takayama, the municipal government office has free internet and in Hiroshima there are two computer retail shops downtown with free internet. On the ninth floor of the train station in Kyoto there is an office which has internet access at Ñ250 for half an hour.

Tourist Information can also tell you where to find ATM machines that take Cirrus cards. In all of Hokkaido, it is only possible to use them at Sapporo train station; in Kyushu it is only possible at Fukuoka airport.

If you are in Japan for 5-7 days, I think the best thing you can do is go to Takayama in Gifu-ken. It is a quaint, small place in a beautiful area with lots to see and excellent accommodations. A new highway going from Nagoya to the west of Takayama is currently being built. Almost entirely made of bridges and tunnels, it is an amazing feat of engineering.

I think the best two sights in all of Kansai are the Kyoto train station and the Osaka-Kansai airport. They are totally mind-blowing, and I dare say you will remember then long after you have forgotten all the temples.

Japanese TV can be excellent. On Saturday night you should watch a wonderful TV show called Den Pashonen. You don't need to know much Japanese to appreciate it. It is on at different times in every part of the country; ask any young person and they will know when you can see it locally.

You should try all the amazingly delicious Japanese snack foods. Just the pretzels alone are awesome. Try apple, chestnut, corn, mustard, butter flavour, or "Men's Pretzels."

It has been suggested that in Japan you should always call ahead to make a reservation at a youth hostel, even if it is just across the street. This applies only if you are planning to eat at the hostel. Otherwise, if someone who answers the phone doesn't speak English well, they may assume that you want meals and if you don't show up when you say you will, you have to pay a fine. No hostels allow use of the kitchen, but all have hot water for ramen and yakisoba.

In Shiretoko National Park a landslide has cut off all access to the hot water waterfall. It was unclear when it would reopen.

It is not necessary to bring a sleeping bag to Japan if you not camping.
Kent Foster, USA (Nov 98)

Don't exchange your dollars at the airport for yen; they give you extremely low rates. You should change them at your stopover in Hong Kong, at local banks, or change some at home first. And don't forget that when you leave you must pay airport tax. Many people forget this.
Hans van den Berg, the Netherlands (Oct 98)

There is a lane in Shinjuku which contains about 60 metres of very cheap, authentic Japanese food stalls, as well as some curry and ramen ones. If you go out the east exit you will find a tunnel going under the tracks a little way down on the left, near the billboards for movies, etc. The other side of the tunnel takes you past a golf shop and a pet shop, and on the right before you come to the main road is a very narrow alley. It has a sign saying "Omoide Yokocho" (Memory Lane) in Kanji. It is so narrow that not spilling your miso as you reach for the rice is an achievement, but the food and atmosphere are great. Nearby is Yakitori yokocho, another lane which is also good for a bite.

The Shin Yokohama Ramen Hakubutsukan (museum) in Shin Yokohama is worth a visit. On the first floor are some fairly dull ramen exhibits and video games, but in the basement is a complete reconstruction of a post-war Shitamachi scene. It might not historically accurate, but it is good fun, and the ramen is fantastic (though pricey). All the "cinemas" and other "shops" in the reconstruction are actually ramen shops specialising in ramen from different regions. It is not far from the station and the station workers will know where it is; if you just say ramen they will point you in the right direction.

Although they are good, clean and punctual (not to mention expensive), buses and trains in the country do not run every thirty seconds, and often stop after five on weekdays or in winter.

I highly recommend the rider houses in Hokkaido. They seem to be peculiar to this town and you will find them everywhere. Many motorcycle riders go to Hokkaido as the roads are good and it's cheap; camp-grounds and "rider houses" make it possible for them to stay here for a long time on little money. Rider houses require no booking - I never saw anyone turned away - and they are inexpensive. Many are free; usually this requires you to eat at the neighbouring ramen shop. You need your own sleeping bag, a mat would be good too. They are primarily set up for motorcycle riders but cyclists, public transport users and hitch-hikers are greeted warmly. The atmosphere is always great. Some are considered notorious for their party atmosphere, others for simply getting a good night's sleep and moving on. Also, if you are a working holiday-maker, looking to escape the cliched teaching English work, these are the places where you can get the lowdown on where all the jobs are. I got a job as a farmhand after becoming friends with the master of a rider house. Talking to other riders will also help you to get a finger on the pulse. Short-term, unskilled labour is often required. On the Pacific coast between September and November, work in the salmon fisheries is particularly popular, offering good money, free accommodation and food. During the same time, but offering a little less money is potato farming. You can also work throughout the year doing road and forestry work. The people that you meet in rider houses are atypical; they have dropped out of the system, are usually pretty crazy and a lot of fun. Nothing beats cruising into town on the back of your bikie mate's Harley! It is fairly easy to find these rider houses. Look for a lot of bikes outside a plain looking building. If you put on a Japanese accent and say "raidaa housu" you will be pointed in the right direction.

The lavender farms around Furano and Bie provide a good overnight stop if going between Akan, Kushiro and Sapporo. The area has many farms and therefore jobs - just ask at the rider houses. The camp grounds are near the lavender farms. The area is considered by many Japanese to be the most Hokkaidoesque part of Hokkaido. It was brilliantly photographed by the internationally famous photographer, Maeda Shinda. The gallery of his work in Bie is free and a must visit in the area.

If you can handle a little Japanese, the best maps are the "Touring Mapple's." All the riders use them as most rider houses and cheap or remarkable eateries are marked.

Worthwhile hikes out of Nagoya can be found in Mieken, Gozaisho and Komagoidake. Good surf can be found in South Mieken, near Shima.
Rod Campbell, Australia (Oct 98)

At the entrance of the Huis Ten Bosch resort there is an ATM which accepts almost every foreign card.

In Kyushu it is a good idea to purchase a Nice Going Card for the trains if you don't have a JR Rail Pass. It enables discounts of 40% on weekend journeys over 100km.
Mathilde Teuben, Japan (Oct 98)

I do not recommend using the buses from Shinjuku to reach the area of Mt Fuji. Often there are very long traffic jams. The trains are double the price but far more comfortable.
Andreas Strohm, Germany (Oct 98)

Places offering free internet use:
Hiraizumi - tourist office outside the station
Sapporo - NTT shop in the underground shopping mall under Kinokuniya book shop. It is right opposite McDonalds. You can use it for an hour, on the hour.
Kanazawa - the international centre, 3rd floor of Rifare department store. Quite close to the station. Thirty minutes and you have to book in.
Kyoto - Multimedia World, next to McDonalds, Kawaramachi-sanjo. Half an hour, I think.
Takamatsu - I-Pal Kagawa (international centre)
Matsuyama - youth hostel (if you are staying there)
Hiroshima - Deodeo electronics shop, but not the main branch which is opposite Sogo. With Sogo behind you, and Aioi-dori going left to right, cross over Aioi-dori and go down the street to the right of the main branch of Deodeo. Keep going until you see a cross-roads with Lawson on one corner. The other branch of Deodeo is also on one of the corners (right-hand side, before Lawson). Internet is on the 5th floor, by the down escalator.
Nagasaki - NTT shop just down the street from the prefectural office.
Takachiho - city office, near the station.
Hagi - NTT shop, just south of the Hagi Travel Inn (I think)
Tokyo - KDD building near the northern exits of Otemachi station
If you need to fine free internet places, the staff at the tourist offices can usually help, and failing that, try the international centres or NTT shops.
Bug Williams, UK (Sep 98)

Free tours of the Imperial Palace East Garden: Japanese university students from Tokyo University offer free tours to English speaking foreigners entering the garden (at the Ota-mon Gate). They do this to practise their English and just approach you at the gate. Three students gave me a tour which was very informative, both historically and culturally.
Dennis Nielsen (Sep 98)

We found two ATMs in Northern Honshu that will accept overseas credit cards. They are:
Sendai
1-4-8 Ohmachi
Aoba-Ku Sendai
Fujisaki Agency
Phone: (022) 227 7389
This one can be found if you walk a short distance once leaving the shopping mall. It is at the opposite end of the shopping mall to Sendai station.
Morioka
2-2-15 Odori
Morioka
Morioka Sawaya Syoten
Phone: (0196) 22 2431
I don't know where this is located geographically as we did not go to Morioka.
Kath Lake (Aug 98)

It is really very easy to use the internet and email for free in Japan. I have been here for 18 days and almost as many places, and have found loads of free internet places. The best place to find it is in NTT show rooms. Usually you can use it for an hour or 30 minutes. Also, some international centres (such as the one in Kanazawa) have it for free too.
Georgeanna (Aug 98)

It appears that American Express has closed all their Tokyo offices except the main office at the American Express Tower in Ogikubo. Travellers running short of money can change at Saison Express on the 8th floor of Seibu department store, Ginza (near Yurako-cho station). They are open until 7pm on weekdays but have shorter hours on weekends. Phone: (03) 3286 5629. They only change US$ cash, or Ñ or US$ travellers cheques but it's a hassle-free service. Remember to take your passport.
Lindsay Eccles - Japan (Jul 98)

Bagus CafΘ, Wakayama, Kansai Region: it is not free to stay here all the time - only during the festival which is usually at Harvest Moon time at the end of September or early October. It is highly recommended that travellers first call (0734-44-2559), and they will give you more information about accommodation.
Jo Ann Skinner

The Japan National Tourist Organisation provides a brilliant service if you request information to be sent to you. However, if you contact them by telephone, the service is nowhere near as comprehensive (that is, if you can get through!).
As of February 1998, all post codes in Japan have been extended to seven numbers.
Jo Rumble - Japan (Jul 98)

I recently went to a mall near Yokohama which had a movie complex called Warner Mycal Cinemas. I was surprised to find a ticket only costing Ñ1000 (around $7), and there was a very excellent choice of movies, both Japanese and American. Some were dubbed in Japanese, but most were spoken in English with Japanese subtitles. This amazingly low price (for Japan) is what you pay at the theatre just before the movie starts. No need to buy in advance any more, avid moviegoers!
Mike Halterman (Jul 98)

Money saving tips:
Sick of paying Ñ500 for a small beer in Japanese pubs? Head for the rooftop hotel beer gardens which come alive in the summer evenings. These usually charge an entrance fee of Ñ1000 or Ñ1500 for all you can drink.
Ride the JR trains for free. The JR rail pass, which you have to buy outside the country, is a really good deal. A single long return journey is equal to the cost of a seven day pass, after which you are travelling for nothing.
Don't throw out your old Levis, or any other name-brand jeans. Most major cities have second-hand name brand stores where you can sell your cast-offs which will be snapped up by trendy teens.
Baseball fever means that many pubs hand out free or half price drinks when the home team hits a home run.
Bargain for your hotel room because a lot of Japanese hotels will throw in breakfast to the regular room price if you ask politely but firmly, indicating that you might not stay there if there's no early morning sweetener.
. Ed Peters (Jul 98)

In Kitakyushu on Kyushu Island, almost every public telephone has been relieved of its international calling capabilities because of phone-card scams. You will be forced to find a hotel with an international phone. The building for the phone company often has an international phone outside as well but it's not guaranteed. More populated, international areas like Tokyo are better for being able to phone home. However, I had the same problem in Yokohama.
Anne Walley (Jun 98)

In Tokyo, Citibank has established some 24 hour ATMs (and is in the process of installing more), where cash may be easily withdrawn. There is one near Shinjiku station.
Valerie Moffat - Australia (Jun 98)

Thought I would drop you a line and dispel the myth that it is impossible to get cash advances in Japan. The Sumitomo Bank gives cash advances on Visa credit cards. In fact, it was much easier (and a lot quicker) than exchanging US dollar traveller cheques at the same bank. Apparently this bank has connections with Visa.
Amanda Phillips - Australia (Jun 98)

Internet: not available in hotels and very few internet cafes available. Home of technology? Found one in Roppongi which I used at three in the morning before going to Tskiji Fish Markets at 5am. And that was it. People have email at home, but not in public!
Simeon King (Apr 98)

Letting you know that there is now a monthly magazine for Kyoto only. It has been appearing now every month for the last four and a half years. It is called KSC and is the organ of Kyoto Social Club. It is produced by volunteers and is, so far, non-profit. The club has no political or religious affiliations. KSC maintains two homepages at the following addresses:
http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/people/michaelb/index.html
and at
http://www.geisya.or.jp/~techedit/ksc/
The latter address will largely mirror up-to-date, useful information concerning Kyoto; the addresses of English schools, emergency telephone numbers, consulates, etc. An up-to-date list of TV programmes in English is also included. KSC Magazine is free and can be found in Maruzen Bookstore, The Pig & Whistle and many other locations around Kyoto. KSC also has a nice restaurant guide. The restaurants listed have all been thoroughly checked out by our KSC dinner party groups. KSC club offers an alternative to sitting around in 'foreigner's bars'. We organise monthly (depending on the season) dinner parties, picnics, seminars, etc.
Michael Wilkins - Japan (Apr 98)

While in Japan, it was absolutely impossible to obtain a cash advance from any bank's ATM using a VISA or Mastercard drawn on an American bank, even if the ATM displayed the VISA or Mastercard logo. I tried three different VISA cards and one Mastercard and all were rejected at every ATM I tried. Luckily, my associate had enough cash to lend for those times when cash was necessary. However, I had no trouble using VISA for purchases, although in Kyoto, some merchants stipulated a minimum purchase requirement for credit cards. So, remember to bring enough cash to Japan, as you will probably find it very difficult to obtain an advance.
Paul J Ninefeldt - USA (Apr 98)

Visa/Mastercard in Japan: this is a serious problem and should be emphasised. Credit card machines are located in what are known as 'cash corners' in shopping centres, supermarkets, etc, and in my experience only infrequently accepted cards issued outside of Japan. I have been using the post office's 'post cheques' for years and in Japan fell back on them. I was able to cash them in minor post offices. I would encourage any traveller to Japan and possibly other places to investigate the post cheque system.
Howard Huxter (Apr 98)

There are some very helpful English speaking volunteers at the Information point of JR Kyoto Station. A man actually escorted us to the TIC personally! Upon finding it shut (due to a public holiday), rather than leave us stranded he took us to a small, traditional ryokan which turned out to be just what we were looking for.
Nikki Singh - UK (Mar 98)

You can change Thomas Cook travellers cheques - I did so in Seki, which is a small town north of Nagoya. If you can change them there, chances are you will be able to change them somewhere else too.
Rupert Chesman (Mar 98)

I found out that there is no longer an American Express branch in Sapporo. I needed to get money out using an automatic teller, and when the main branch of JTB was closed, I went to a Japanese bank which displayed a sticker showing that I could use my card. It didn't work and I found out that you can only use Amex cards that are issued in Japan in most of them. I did find out that you can use it at the machines in Tokyu department store (9th floor) and Sogo department store (ground floor), which are handy and close to the station.
Donna Willis - Japan (Mar 98)

Tokyo, Free Guide Service: Japanese students will show tourists around Tokyo. Phone: (03) 3986 1604 for information.
Useful telephone numbers, Tokyo:
Visa counselling info: (03) 3213 8527
American Express: (03) 3220 6100
International Catholic Hospital: (03) 3951 1111
International Clinic: (03) 3582 2646
Tokyo Lifeline: (03) 3264 4343
Alex Williams - Scotland (Feb 98)

I cannot stress the importance of carrying cash in Japan, especially outside the major urban areas like Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto, Fukuoka, etc. I live in a fairly good-sized city, but all the ATMs close by about 8pm. I have spent many a three day weekend scavenging department store basements for free samples and counting down the hours until the ATMs open.
Jennifer Roberts (Feb 98)

Narita airport has changed their policy on the Ñ2000 airport tax, effective from 1 January 1999. Supposedly it will be included in the ticket price, so it is one less thing to need Japanese currency for.
Paul & Lisa Ziegele, USA (Apr 99)

For visits to the temples in north-west Kyoto, Japan Rail Pass holders can take the JR bus which departs from the front of JR Kyoto Station. The bus will stop at the Omuro Ninna-ji stop opposite the entrance to Ninna-ji Temple. The same bus also passes Ryoan-ji Temple and will probably stop there as well. Riders should keep an eye out for these stops or the bus may move them speedily out of the city into the mountains (which happened to the German man who told me about this JR bus!)
Christine Tanhueco, USA (Mar 99)

The cheapest and in some ways most convenient way of getting from Narita Airport to central Tokyo is to catch the Keisei line train from beneath the airport terminal to Ueno. There are two trains: the limited express, which costs Ñ1000 and the Skyliner, which costs about Ñ2000. Despite the difference in price, the limited express is only 15 minutes slower than the Skyliner (although the Skyliner has reserved individual seats). However, unless you're out to experience what being crammed on to a Tokyo train feels like, I'd recommend the Skyliner from 6.30 to 8 am. (The same is true for the opposite direction from 4.30 to 7 pm).

If you need to change to the JR Yamanote or Keihin Tohoku lines, it is much easier to get off at Nippori, the stop before Ueno. This is because it is approximately 200 metres walk from the Keisei Ueno station to JR Ueno station, which is a real hassle when you're carrying luggage. Also, from late 1998 it became possible to go directly from Narita Airport to Haneda Airport via the Keisei line. The fare is about Ñ1500 which is under half the price of an airport limousine bus.
Simon Merry (Feb 99)

The railway station in Takamatsu, on Shikoku Island, has moved; the information centre is now located in an inconspicuous one-storey office to the left of the resited station. Very little English is spoken here.
Betty Gardiner, UK (Dec 98)

Mt Komaga-take: boats from Togendai do not stop at Hakone-en anymore.

Nikko :the Shin-Kyo bridge cannot be crossed due to construction work.
Hans Fix, Australia (Dec 98)

Earlier this year, the largest company of Japan Rail (JR) introduced a new rail pass which allows unlimited train travel on JR tracks in the eastern half of Honshu. The JR East Pass covers all JR lines in Tokyo, including the Narita Express from the airport to downtown Tokyo. In total, JR East has 72 lines, including five of the bullet-speed Shinkansen services. For the avid outdoors person, the pass includes train services to seven national parks and the Mt Fuji area. The only drawback is that it does not cover Kyoto and the Kansai region. Other major attractions, such as Nagano and Kamakura can be reached. The JR East Pass is potentially attractive to shoestring travellers, perhaps even more so than the original Japan Rail pass. Firstly, it is much less expensive that the JR Pass and there is a youth fare available for travellers aged 12-25 - the discount is roughly 20%. Also, for the first time, Japan has a "flexi-pass" system as opposed to one where the pass is valid only on consecutive days. Japanese Rail passes still have along way to go in offering the selection and value of their European counterparts, but the JR East Pass represents a significant improvement to budget travel in Japan. As with the JR Pass, the JR East Pass can only be purchased outside Japan, and must be picked up at an exchange office on arrival.
Dave Minicola, Canada (Oct 98)

The 'Ju-hachi Kippu' or Youth Rail Pass: if you are travelling by rail in Japan during their school vacations you should seriously consider getting this rail pass. Although it is called a youth pass, just about anyone can buy one. Just show up at the train reservation counter and ask for a 'ju-hachi kippu'. Simple as that. It is really good value for money. At Ñ11,500 the pass entitles the holder to travel on the local trains for any five days during the vacation period. In fact, it is quite easy to cover the full cost of that rail pass by the end of the second day of train travel. However, this rail pass is only suitable for people who intend to travel for at least one week in Japan as travelling via local trains can be quite time consuming. As local trains operate over short distances, one may need to change trains more often as compared to the case where one is travelling by the express trains or shinkansen. Consequently, the travelling time is longer. For example, a jaunt from Sapporo to Wakkanai by express trains takes 6 hours compared to ten hours by local trains.
Lek Wai Mun, Singapore (Oct 98)

I would not take any other form of transport from Narita Airport than the NEX (Narita Express Train). It may be more costly than the others but is well worth it. You are guaranteed a seat, a place to put your luggage and to arrive on time (in comparison to the limousine buses which can get held up in traffic for a few hours at a time). If you arrive in peak seasons, travelling by local train can prove a nightmare because of crowds.
Jo Rumble - Japan (Jul 98)

Since the Akashi Kaikyo Oohashi Bridge (between Kobe and Awaji Island) has been opened, it is much easier to go from Kansai to Shikoku. Take the buses leaving at Osaka Station, Kobe Sannomiya or Maiko Station. Some of them are JR (if you have a JR pass).
Unzen walk near Nagasaki was opened again in April 1998.
Barla Fetz (Jun 98)

Departure tax at Kansai International Airport is Ñ2650, but is also payable, conveniently, by credit card.
Nikki Singh - UK (Mar 98)

I highly recommend taking the boat from Shanghai to Osaka as an excellent way to get to Japan. The boat is cheap and offers student reductions and return ticket discounts from the office at Shanghai Mansions in Shanghai. The boat is very, very comfortable; like an expensive hotel (at least more fancy than any place I usually stay when travelling).
M D Tinker - UK (Mar 98)

There is a new flight going from Tianjin (China) to Osaka. Tianjin 'International' airport isn't served by any train route, and there are no buses there direct from the station. Taxi fares vary between Y20 to Y40 to get there, depending on how honest your taxi driver is (there are two routes that they can take and one of them costs a lot more). The airport is generally very quiet with many Russian people waiting for their plane. There is a Russian market right next to the airport where you can buy lots of stuff at a cheap price. Make sure when you are going to Tianjin railway station that you know the characters for the place you want to go to - there is no pinyin at all. The buses to Beijing cost Y20 and are quite good, although they do wait until they are full to absolute bursting before they leave.
The boat from Tanggu (China) to Kobe deserves a mention. It's very nice and costs Y1500 for the two day trip, plus the standard amount of bureaucratic Chinese red-tape, making it about Y1800 (CITS booking fee, 'public account' thing at the port). The boat only accepts Ñ, even though it is Chinese. You can change up to Ñ10,000 worth of Yuan there, but only on the second day of the voyage, and you therefore may get hungry if you don't have any Yen.
Rupert Chesman (Mar 98)

The ferry from Ishinomaki to Kinkazan Island via Ayukawa has stopped operating as of 1997. If you want to take a ferry there, you must catch the train from Ishinomaki to Onogawa station. Upon arriving at Onagawa you must then walk out of the station and turn right. Keep walking until you come to the pier where the ferry is waiting. There is a ticket box across the road from the pier. Return tickets are Ñ3040.
Lilla Ito-Hongo -Australia (Jan 98)

If you're staying in Japan and want a domestic flight, if you book them exactly (and I mean exactly, not one day too early or too late) two months ahead, you can get a 40-50% discount on your flight!! But its only possible on domestic flights. Good Luck.!
Hilde (Jan 98)

Virgin Atlantic Airlines have moved. I do not have their address but their new telephone number is: (03) 3499 8811.
The departure tax is now around Ñ2,040 or Ñ2,050.
Rahul N Moodgal - UK (Nov 97)

Kyoto has just completed its new Kyoto Station and it opened this fall. It's the largest in the nation and includes five plazas, the JR Kyoto Isetan Department Store, the Hotel Granvia Kyoto (2nd largest accommodation capacity in the city), a theatre, museum, and passport office. There is also a new shinkansen line between Morioka and Akita in northen Honshu. It's been immensely popular and has proven to be a real competitor with flights between Tokyo and Akita.
Bill Roberston (Nov 97)

One small warning about using illegal telephone cards in Japan: it's a big problem. NTT is losing the battle in front of Nagoya station and Central Park. Yes, they are cheap - 10 cards for Ñ1000 versus the regular card for Ñ1000. But if you're caught with them, you will go to jail. I know of two foreigners who were busted - one was fined Ñ100,000 and jailed for two months. The other was deported. Also, on international phones, you can't use any phone cards anymore; only Ñ100 coins. It's best to join up with a phone club nowadays. It's only Ñ39 a minute to the USA, Ñ49 to Canada, Ñ57 to the UK, and about Ñ60 a minute to Australia. Information is available in The Alien or the Chubu Weekly.
Jamie Wheeler - Japan (Feb 98)

Anyone travelling to Japan via Tokyo Narita Airport from anywhere remotely third world, e.g., Thailand, Malaysia, etc, should avoid carrying 'Imodium' in the essentials bag. This, if discovered, will result in a trip to a small room, questions, a thorough luggage search and a trip to the local hospital for an x-ray. It seems that anyone carrying Imodium is linked to swallowing drugs and an hour or so spent with customs puts a damper on the start of your visit to this remarkable and unique country.
Steve Yeldir (Feb 98)

People who like to play golf should really play in Japan. They have the best golf courses in the world because they had unlimited budgets during the booming 80s and hired guys like Jack Nicholas to design the courses. I just played on one about 90 minutes from downtown Tokyo, called Kazusa. Seven thousand, one hundred yards and hilly - I almost died. I use the only reference guide around for travellers: www.JapanGolfCourses.com. Golfing in Japan is a wild experience.
Pete (Mar 99)

Surfing in Shikoku: a really great overnight surfing trip is possible from the Kansai area. Take the overnight ferry from Osaka (Nanko ferry terminal) to Kannoura (Tokushima prefecture, Shikoku). Rates depend on whether you walk, drive or cycle on board.
Ikumihama Beach, Shikoku is a 10 minute cycle from the ferry terminal, a 25 minute walk, or hitch a ride from one of the many agreeable Japanese surfers driving there - very easy to do. The ferry leaves Osaka at about 11 pm and arrives in Kannoura around 6 am.
The ride itself is pretty interesting - this boat has no chairs. It's take off your shoes in the walkway, grab a blanket and cushion and catch a few zzzs on the padded floor. Most of the Japanese on the ferry are surfers too. The return ferry leaves Kannoura around 5 pm and arrives in Osaka at midnight, just in time to catch the last train home. Alternatively, you could camp overnight near the beach for free, which many Japanese do.
Derry McDonell, Japan (Jan 99)

In Nikko, a walk I particularly enjoyed was along the Daiya-gawa River just across the river from the Turtle Inns. This walk with its numerous statues of Jizo (approximately 100) all staring out towards the wild river was a beautiful counterpoint to the massive temples and massive tourism perhaps only 10 minutes away. I was the only person there that afternoon to witness this moving tribute by perhaps very ordinary people to their lost children. Given its close proximity to Nikko and its peacefulness, I would highly recommend this walk as an antidote to tourism overdose. It should be noted that this walk is mentioned in some of the tourism literature which is handed out at Nikko but in none of the English guidebooks which I have checked.
Stephen Lowe, Canada (Jan 99)

In Osaka, there's a museum called the Osaka Prefecture Museum of Contemporary Art. It's fairly easy walking distance from Osaka JR Station and is shown on the Osaka maps given out at the tourist information booth. The museum is small but it's free of charge and the works on display, while I was there at least, were well worth seeing.
Dave Brown, Canada (Dec 98)

Wakkangi is a pleasant, northern city of 50,000 people which is well worth an extended stay. As well as being the gateway to the Rishiri-Reboun Islands and to Russia's Sakhalin Island (visas can be obtained in Sapporo) it is a friendly fishing town with a Russian influence.

Kyushu: there is a very good peace display in the city.
Lloyd Jones, Canada (Dec 980

The southern mountain region of Japan is a lovely part of the country not over-crowded with tourists. Home to Kitadake, the second highest mountain in Japan (approximately 3700m), it also offers a good hiking experience. After staying overnight in Kofu we travelled for an hour along a very small mountain road to Kitadake. The hike starts at 1000m and lasted three and a half hours (for Swiss hikers!). We stayed for an hour at the summit to enjoy the beautiful view and took three hours to descend, spending the night in Kofu again. Most Japanese people do this climb in two or three days. There are two mountain huts at different levels available to sleep in: the first one is at 2000m; the second one is about 300m from the summit. The official Japanese duration of the hike is five to six hours ascending and four to five descending. Although it is not as famous as Mt Fuji, Kitadake is just as nice.
Laurent Dellmann - Switzerland (Oct 98)

The name Minimata is associated with one of the world's worst environmental pollution stories. The town is a fascinating stopover for anyone interested in the environment, pollution or social history. In 1956 it was realised that the Chisso Corporation had been discharging pollutants into the Minimata river via an open drain. Extremely high levels of methyl-mercury resulted in the poisoning of the fish on which thousands of people depended for their livelihood. Many, especially the villagers who ate mainly fish, became ill with 'Minimata Disease'. Hundreds died, thousands became ill and many more had (and still have) lesser symptoms which are not officially recognised. The disease attacks the central nervous system and originally appeared similar to cerebral palsy. Symptoms included complete loss of mobility or the use of limbs, vision loss, numbness around the mouth and fingers, and headaches. Officially, 12,615 people have been 'certified' as suffering the disease but there were many more affected who were not officially recognised.

The issue divided the town. Even though the disease was discovered in 1956 it took many years of heartache, social disruption, legal costs and public humiliation before Chisso and the Japanese government acknowledged their culpability. Chisso was a powerful corporation and the main employer in the town. Victims were discouraged (often by their fellow townspeople) from making claims which might cripple the town's economic power. Originally it was feared the disease was infectious and the families often hid the victims away. Some sufferers were accused of 'malingering'.

In 1968, the government acknowledged Chisso was responsible and gave a public apology for the delay but claims and compensation were not finalised until 1996. Even today, many people claim they have not been adequately recognized and compensated. The town has adopted the Minimata Disease as its own and built it in as one of the main features of its tourist vision for the area.

There are four main points of interest:
Minimata Disease Municipal Museum
Environmental Education and Intelligence Centre
Minimata Bay Reclaimed Land
Minimata Disease Museum
Jill Warneke, Australia (Aug 98)

Those of you interested in architecture should see the Main Halls of the Religious Corporations known as the Rissho Kosei Kai, and Reiyukai, both in Tokyo. The RKK Hall is around east-central Suginami-ku, and resembles a Central Asian Temple. The Reiyukai Hall is only a block or two away from the Tokyo Tower and is reminiscent of the black, stainless steel Star Destroyer from the Star Wars movies.
Harold Dodd (Aug 98)

Muroran, Hokkaido, has recently invested a considerable amount of time and money into encouraging whale-watching, with a view to pulling itself out of its industrial past by promoting tourism. The city now has two whale-watching boats on which three hour trips cost approximately Ñ6000. There is a high likelihood of seeing Dall's porpoise and minke whales yearly and Pacific white-sided dolphins during the summer months. There are also occasional sightings of bottlenose dolphins, killer whales and pilot whales. In addition, seals and various bird species (albatrosses, shearwaters and murres) are often seen.

Osaka Aquarium, Kaiyukan: after visiting numerous aquaria around the world, this is clearly one of the most interesting and well designed aquariums either of us have ever visited, and is of world-class standard. The central tank containing the two whale sharks (among hundreds of other fish) is extremely impressive. The general theme is of the Pacific Ocean, with the central tank representing the deep ocean and around it the shores of the Pacific Rim (Japan, Aleutian Islands, Monterey Bay, Gulf of Panama, Ecuador, Antarctica, Tasman Sea, Great Barrier Reef, Seto Island Sea). Viewing begins at the 6th floor and leads down and around these exhibits descending to the sea floor.
Sascha Hooker - Canada (Aug 98)

Southern Kaga region (Ishikawa): just behind Kaga Onsen Station is 'Utopia'. It's supposed to be a model of the Buddhist heaven. There's a huge statue of the Amida Buddha with a child that can be seen for miles away. You can climb up inside it and look out the head at the rice paddies and mountains. Around the statue are a series of temples. One features the life of Buddha, another is a copy of the Sanjusan-do's 1000 statues of the 1000 armed Kannon, though they cheat a bit and use mirrors. In yet another, there's every type of Buddha you can think of. The entry fee is very steep - Y1800 last time I checked, but if you're interested in Buddhist art, it's all there in one place.

Near Daishoji Station (downtown Kaga City, so to speak), is the small Zenshoji Temple. It's claim to fame (besides the fact that Basho slept there, and of course, wrote a haiku), is its 500 statues of Buddhas doing every type of job possible (for a Buddha). The trick is to find the Buddha for your job. There is even a travelling Buddha.

Komatsu: close to the Natadera Temple is the Japan Automobile Museum. It has a huge collection of Japanese and foreign antique cars going back to the 1890s. For any car enthusiast, it's a must. It's located in Awazu Onsen and you can get there by bus from Komatsu station.

Shiramine: this small town in the mountains is famous for winter. The snow is usually 2m deep. 'Snowman Week' occurs over the last weekend in January - villagers build over 2000 snowmen all over the town. It's reported to be the largest snowman festival in Japan. On the final night, they light up the snowmen by placing candles inside them. There are buses here from Kanazawa.
Michael Joyce - Japan (Jul 98)

Ikoi no Mori has a camp ground which is situated in the hills closest to Odawara. There are great facilities here and thick forest which lends itself to some fantastic bushwalking. For the strong-hearted, you can walk up to Ikoi no Mori from Odawara. Alternatively, you could try taking a bus or even a taxi. Ikoi no Mori is also home to the Odawara Jazz and Blues Festival held annually in October.
Further out of Odawara, there are some of the most beautiful walks in Japan. Ashigara-togei (Ashigara pass) is listed as one of the top 50 sights in Kanagawa prefecture. Many of these walks start from Daiyuzan station (last stop on the Daiyuzan line from Odawara station). Contact Minami-Ashigara City Hall (0465) 74 2111 for detailed information. There are camping spots along these walks as well as ryokan and other styles of accommodation. Along the walks you can find breathtaking views of Mt Fuji, many waterfalls and lush forest.
Jo Rumble - Japan (Jul 98)

In Okayama prefecture, only a short distance from the train line to Tottori (about 40 minutes by train from Okayama city) there is a pretty good rock (sport) climbing area with around 15 climbs of different levels. A lot of people throughout the Chugoku and Shikoku regions come to it (plus out of towners) especially on the weekends, but it is far from crowded. There is a lodge at the foot of the first section where the local club might let you stay for the night, or it is an easy day trip from Okayama city, Kurashiki, or even Tottori. Driving up is best as some of the climbs are a fair distance from the lodge and the main area. The drive is not too difficult and is blessed with gorgeous scenery. A welcome respite from the city.
Korey Hartwich (Mar 98)

For travellers interested in traditional arts and crafts, visit the Utatsuyama Crafts Workshop. It's not mentioned in any guidebooks but is a wonderful modern complex on a hill overlooking Kanazawa where young people are apprenticed in pottery, urushi lacquer, dyeing, metal work or glass blowing. Upstairs are two large galleries showing beautiful old and new craft, and downstairs, visitors can see the artisans working in the extensive workshops. The craft workshop is set in a park area on the site of the historic Kasugayama Kiln where the renaissance of Kutani pottery began. It was established in 1989 and some foreign students are accepted (although they have to be pretty fluent in Japanese, as all classes are in Japanese). To get to it, take the no 90 bus to Bodokai shop and walk over the brow of the hill for 500 metres. That's the easy way - I climbed the steep hill on a walk from the Higashi Geisha district. Not recommended unless you're incredibly fit and take a packed lunch! Buses go approximately every 40 minutes. Admission is Ñ300 (I think).
Sarah Macklin - Australia (Mar 98)

All new comers MUST go to the Nagoya International Centre (Kokusai Centre - it's on the third floor). There's an information and bulletin board for jobs, friends, items to buy or for sale, and the staff have lists of homestays, youth hostels, cheap accommodation, sports clubs, restaurants and anything else you might need, but remember they are closed on Mondays. They also publish the Nagoya Calendar which is not that bad but the Alien magazine is much better. This magazine started in Nagoya but now covers Tokyo and Kansai as well. Also, there is the Chubu Weekly - it's free. It's more conservative but has a good classified section usually.
Jamie Wheeler - Japan (Feb 98)

"Tenrikyo": this is a very interesting religion and group of people which I strongly recommend to visit during a trip to Japan. Its headquarters and central temple (claimed as the largest wooden building in the world) are in Tenri-shi, near Nara. The people there are extremely open and willing to show their temple to visitors, and may provide a unique opportunity to make a direct contact with the old Japanese traditions and lifestyle. The Tenrikyo Overseas Mission Dept, 271 Mishima, Tenri, Nara 632. Phone: (07436) 3-1511.
Ines Merchuk - Israel (Jan 98)