IRAN

Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings

One month visas to Iran for British and Swiss nationals are handed out for free in their Beijing embassy. All you need to give them is a photocopy of your passport and one passport sized photo. The process takes two weeks.
Adrian Lloyd, UK (Feb 99)

I was in the Azerbaijan capital of Baku with the intent of travelling south (by bus) to Tabriz (Iran) but was informed that the border was closed to foreigners. I went to the Iranian consulate and they told me that crossing the border would be no problem and that the problem lay with the Azerbaijan government. I telephoned the Ministry of Foreign Affairs but was unable to get permission to cross their "non-international" border. Only citizens of Iran and Azerbaijan are currently allowed to cross. I was informed at the Port office in Baku that during the summer there are regular boat sailings from Baku to Iran which foreigners are allowed to take since they land deeper into Iran (and not at the sensitive border area).

Luckily I was able to grab one of the bi-weekly flights to Tabriz (US$110 Thursday and Friday) before both my Iran visa experienced and the five day Azerbaijan transit limit allowed on my Georgian visa elapsed. The flight gave me the choice of stopping in Tabriz with the option of going on to Tehran at a later date all for the same price. I easily converted the "open" Tabriz to Tehran ticket to the much longer Tehran to Mashhad for absolutely nothing at the Tabriz Iran Air office in Tabriz. I was able to easily extend my five day transit visa in Tabriz to 30 days with the blink of an eye.
Brian Christie, Canada (Dec 98)

The present address of the Iranian embassy in The Netherlands is at Duinweg 24, 2585 JX The Hague tel : (070) 354 84 83.

Although the personnel are friendly and speak reasonable Dutch their advise for the visa procedure was not sound. When applying I was just given the form without any mention of the need for a sponsor. After some three weeks, I enqired about the status of my application and only then they told me that Tehran had decided my unsponsored application was rejected and I had to do it via a travel agency. With only one working day to spare before my already arranged flight was going to leave, I got a visa.
Ton Januasch, The Netherlands ( Nov 98)

In Istanbul, Turkey, the story I was told was that only transit visas can be issued outside your country of residence and you must have an onward visa (eg Pakistan) to "prove" you were transiting first. The transit visa took seven days and cost US$50 - and I was only granted five days (although I was originally quoted 14).

Getting an extension was a breeze. I went to the Shiraz office and asked for two weeks. The official said that only seven days was normally allowed on a transit visa. I reduced my bid to 12 days on the application form and was "offered" 10 days when I handed it in. I picked up my passport the next day and had been given 11 days.
Rob Anderson, New Zealand (Nov 98)

The address of the Iranian Embassy & Consulate in Canada is 245 Metcalfe Street, Ottawa, ON K2P 2K2; Telephone - Consulate: (613) 233-4726 fax; (613) 236 4726 - Embassy : (613) 235-4726; fax (613) 232-5712 email: iranemb@salamiran.org - website: www.salamiran.org. Their website is surprisingly informative, if you look long enough.
Dave Poirier (Oct 98)

We arranged all visas for Iran, Pakistan and India in Istanbul, Turkey, which took us all together about eight or nine days, reasonably fast. For Iran, you first need a visa for Pakistan (we got less days for Pakistan than people who applied in Brussels). India and Pakistan visa costs about US$20 for Belgians. The Iran visa cost US$50 (for all nationalities) and takes generally five to seven days. The Pakistan visa only takes 24 hours. The visa for India was ready in three days, though sometimes it can take ten days. The advantage was that the Iranian consulate gave us our passports back when our application was still in request, so that we could go to the Indian consulate. We also only had to pay for the Iranian visa when everything was ok, while we heard of some British citizens who had to pay US$50 when applying, without knowing if they would be successful.
Isabelle Cherlet & Dirk Engels, Belgium

I just received my Iranian visa via the consulate in Munich, Germany. I had arranged a MFA (Ministry of Foreign Affairs) reference number and Sahra Caravan Tourist Co in Tehran arranged the RFA reference number. The consulate told me that they could not issue the visa without it. Visa issue takes one hour and the visa is valid for three months and one month in Iran.. For US passport holders there is no charge. New charge for German, British and other European holders is DM95 in July 1998.
Hank Kryger, USA (July 1998)

The address of the Iranian embassy in The Netherlands has changed; the new address is : Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Iran, Duinweg 24, 2585 JX s'Gravenhage.
Aernout Nieuwkerk (June 98)

Got our Iran visas! (US citizens): applied to the Iran Interests Section six weeks ago. Then heard all this stuff about how US citizens must have a guide at all times (some travel agents confirmed this). Well, today I got a letter saying visas approved, send passport to get stamp, send no money (no $50 fee any more). No agent, no guide, no car and driver.
I am not sure if this experience means that everyone will get a visa. We're married (according to our application forms anyway) with 'respectable' jobs (not in journalism, political science, etc) and we're on a tight schedule so we made hotel reservations directly and attached detailed itinerary, hotel confirmations and copies of airline tickets to our application. This may have helped; we're almost on a tour except no tour operator is involved. A college student who 'just wants to wander' may have a harder time, I don't know.
Also, I recommend a cover letter saying why you want to go: an interest in Islamic art or Persian archeological sites is better than say an interest in women's rights. If you don't have a schedule, what the hell, make one up. Those travel-agent-arranged deals are expensive, so try the direct application method if you have the time (at least two months before departure). The agents can get it processed faster. Oh, and forgot to add that it's a tourist visa, but it's valid for only the specific length of the trip as given in our itinerary.
Stunned & Amazed - The Thorn Tree (Jul 98)

I have a Japanese passport and applied for an Iranian tourist visa at the Iranian embassy in London by post (Japanese citizens do need a visa to visit Iran now). Before applying for the visa, I explained to them my travel plan over the phone (individual trip from Turkey to Pakistan via Iran) then they said that they could issue the visa but it would take at least two weeks. After three weeks having sent all documents and my passport, I got nothing from them so I phoned the embassy. Surprisingly, they said that it was impossible in London to issue any visa for an individual tourist unless applying through a travel agency or joining a group tour.
Hiro Shimai (Apr 98)

The telephone number of the Iranian embassy in Austria is 01-7122657-0.
Wilhelm Theo (Mar 98)

Dubai seems relatively good for obtaining Iranian visas. I was granted a 15 day transit visa (New Zealand passport) in just 10 days, some of which the embassy was closed for Eid Al Adha. However, they charge 185 Dhms (approx US$50) which is fairly pricey. Also, things are a bit chaotic in there. The day I went in the place was full of about 60 people (mostly Pakistani nationals) all clamouring for visas. It took four hours just to get the thing filed (even getting the application forms was an exercise in patience and finding the right person). They require one photo and applications must be typed (English is ok) which is done by a private outfit in the Strand Cineme building, 500 metres away). They do ask to see your air ticket and they are want to ask the applicant if they know anyone in Iran. To avoid complications, the applicant is best to answer, "no" to this question.
Garry Telford (Apr 98)

Most people arrive at Tehran airport early in the morning. Don't buy taxi tickets in the kiosk outside the airport (as suggested by some travellers) since the price is 20000 Rials and you can get transportation to the city centre by private car with some bargaining for 5000 Rials. Besides taxis, public buses are also a good way for going around in Tehran, although not recommended. They are not as crowded as some have reported but are particularly good for some long distance lines such as Emam Khomeini Square to Tajrish or Azadi to South Bus terminal. For the same way you have to take several shared taxis which take time and money. The best is to ask locals which bus to take. They will always help you. Buy 10 tickets at the kiosk next to every bus station for only 500 Rials. You need two tickets for each ride.

There is also brief information about ski resorts in Iran on the Web at :http://www-scf.usc.edu/~igsa/ski_sites.html, and http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/4255/ski.htm.
Bla Zabukovec (Apr 98)

It seems that it is now possible for foreigners to travel from Mashed, Iran into Turkmenistan by bus. These go every other day from Mashed to Chardjou leaving at 5 am.
Marianne Heredge - UK (Jan 98)

As Germans, it was impossible for us to get a visa (even transit) at home in Hamburg or Berlin. But, having already booked, we tried getting the visa in Turkey, which is possible, but not always easy. Whatever happens at the embassy or consulate, keep trying and remain calm - in the end you'll get it. A transit visa was about US$50 and valid up to 14 days. Getting it extended may be another unlikely procedure, but stay cool and you may be in luck.
Fritti, D-Kiel (Jan 98)

Going back to the border crossing - there were several people asking to change money at the border. It's best not too, because the rate is poor and we were also warned about counterfeit currency. Those who did change could be seen inspecting the money very carefully indeed. At the border, it's best to play safe and change money the official source - the bank.
Mark Nicholls & Sharon Peake - UK (Dec 97)

It is possible, if you have a Turkmenistan visa in your passport, to cross from Iran into Turkmenistan (I'm not sure about going from Turkmenistan into Iran).

By bus from Mashhad to Sarakhs (Iran side) after 2 visa checks, walk across the border, over a bridge where a lot of trucks also cross, and the Turkmenistan border office lies about 5 km from the Turkmenistan village of Saraghs. A bus took us from the office to Saraghs (Turkmenistan side) but after a few kms they dropped us in the middle of nowhere and we had to take a taxi, or to Mary or Ashgabat.

We got our Iranian transit visa in Brussels, after showing our Turkmenistan visa and a months wait. We got our Turkmenistan 7 day tourist visa in Brussels, after showing an invitation. We had help from the Ministry of foreign affairs in Ashgabat.

Before crossing this border, we didn't need an extra confirmation from the Turkmenistan embassy in Tehran, any other "special" paper. Leaving Iran, they only checked our backpack. They were not interested in official currency exchange receipts - they only asked for the custom declaration paper which you get when you enter the country.

The Turkmenistan side was a hassle with more corruption. First you have the border police. The outside borders of CIS are still controlled by Russian soldiers. And then you have the Turkmenistan customs and immigration where they tried to get money from us all the time. We acted as if we didn't understand them and didn't pay anything because our papers were in order. They asked for our vaccination card. Be sure they give you a custom declaration form - it is valid for all CIS countries and they ask for it when you leave for a country other than a CIS country.

On the road to Mary in the middle of the desert, we were stopped by police for luggage and paper check. Our companions, an Iranian businessman and a Turkmenistan businesswomen, had to pay. He, because his moustache was slightly different compared with the one on his picture and she, because a stamp was missing on her custom declaration form. Be prepared and have fun.

Embassy of Iran in Brussels, Tervurenlaan 415, B01150 Brussels ( ++32 (0) 2/762 37 45. Transit visa, 3 photos, you need a visa for an onward country eg Pakistan, Turmenistan. One month processing time; 1700 BEF.

Embassy of Turkmenistan in Brussels, Franklin Rooseveltlaan, 106, B1050 Brussels ( ++ 32 (0)2 648 1874; fax ++ 32 (0)2 648 19 06. You need a letter of invitation from a tourist company in Turkmenistan before you can get a visa, 7 days - 1200 BEF.

Embassy of Turkmenistan in Tehran, The 5th of Colestan, 39, Pasdaran ( 2042178 or 2040733.
Johan van Audekerke (Dec 97)

We applied for our Iranian visa in Istanbul. The consulate of Iran is conveniently located on Ankara Caddesi just down from Aya Sofya.

At the visa office at the consulate we were asked to fill out the relevant forms. On realising we were British, the official asked us to fill out a second form to be faxed to Tehran for approval and it would take 10 days to come through. We also had to pay US$50 in Turkish Lira into a local bank. We were clearly told we would not be refunded if the visa was refused and were also warned there was a strong possibility it would be refused. We decided to proceed with the application and opted for a transit rather than a tourist visa.

While we waited, an Australian was refused a tourist visa without explanation. We also heard of others being refused tourist visas, so we were satisfied with our decision to apply for a transit visa. Those refused tourist visas were invited to re-apply for transit visas. We lodged our application and waited.

That little aside apart, after 10 days we returned to the Iranian consulate and was granted our transit visa but disappointed that it was only for five days. However, we were pleased to get it and contented ourselves with the fact that we thought we could extend it once in Iran. I also think that having a Pakistani visa helped - we were specifically asked if we had that

. The transit visa was valid for three months, so some two weeks after receiving it, we crossed into Iran. We had been told by other travellers to head straight for Tabriz and to get it extended straight away - no problems. Things weren't that easy. Over our first 10 days in Iran we were to visit visa extension offices at Tabriz, Tehran, Esfahan and Shiraz. None are in the places marked on your map - it appears they have all moved.

In Tabriz, the visa extension office is on Saeb Street which runs off Sharinatiye St. We showed the official our visa and he said we still had time left on it - go to Tehran.

In Tehran, the visa extension office is at the Alien's Bureau on a small street off Vele St, next to the branch of Bank Tejarat. Once again, an official told us to come back when our visa expired, or go elsewhere to try to renew it when it did.

In Esfahan, the visa extension office is south of the river on Chahor Bagh, beyond Daruazeh Shiraz, at a side street called Edareh Guzarnamch. Taxi drivers know where it is. It was Thursday , and our visa ran out on the Friday, so we were told to come back on the Saturday. To renew your visa in Esfahan you pay 10,000 rials into a branch of bank Melli half a mile from the office and need photocopies of your passport and of the bank payment slip. There is a small photocopy office near the bank. We were granted an extra five days at Esfahan.

In Shiraz, the visa Extension office is on the edge of town. I'm not sure of the exact address but it might be easiest to do what we did - go to the central police office as marked on your map and ask. A helpful policeman flagged down a taxi, gave the driver precise instructions and sent us on our way. We paid 4,000 rials there and 2,000 rials back. It depends on what you can get away with.

With some apprehension we approached the Shiraz Visa Extension office, in the light of our experiences at Tabriz, Tehran and Esfahan. Meekly we asked for a five day extension. The official said "wouldn't 10 be better". We couldn't believe the difference in approach from the other visa offices - all the reports of a friendly office at Shiraz are true.

The official described the procedure: pay 10,000 rials into the bank, get the relevant photocopies and also buy a cardboard folder. It all sounds like hard work, but the bank is on the visa office site, there is a photocopy office further along (which also does quick head and shoulder pix) and they also sell the necessary cardboard folder. Within minutes we were back in the office filling out the visa extension application form. We asked for a 10-day extension - the official changed it to 15 days. The visa was issued, stamped in our passport, there and then in front of us. While we waited the officials chatted with us, shared sweets and cakes and asked questions about England. It was like a party atmosphere compared to the other offices. We were delighted to get such an extension but it was frustrating to get the run around from the other offices.

If possible, get your visa in your own country - we met people who had gotten two week visas and in one case, a Dutch guy who got three months. If you only have a short transit visa, try and persist until you get to Shiraz.
Mark Nicholls & Sharon Peake - UK (Dec 97)

Visa extensions: The new price is 10,000Rials. There is a new regulation about transit visas. In many places they are very reluctant to extend transit visas. The best is to ask for the extension on the last day of validity of the visa. Shinaz seems to be the best place to apply for extension.
Roland Beutler - Switzerland (Nov 97)

I had no troubles on the Bazargan Border because I managed to come through with a big overland tour group. Its worth noting that they check your cassettes and cd's and give you a separate slip of paper which registers what you brought into the country.
Danielle Dignam - Australia (Nov 97)

After the horror stories I had heard about the Zahendan border, I was intensely worried about getting out of the country, but it was unbelievably easy. This is probably the most important update for your book. On the Iranian side the process was very straightforward - customs and exit stamp. We were asked to open our bags but they didn't even look any further than the first layer of clothing. Then on the Pakistan's side there was first the entry stamp and then the customs. The only negative aspect was the hoards of black marketeers mobbing me in an attempt to change money.
Danielle Dignam - Australia (Nov 97)

Check points in central Iran very seldom stopped us, and were sometimes unmanned. But on an evening run from Takht-i-Suleiman to Hamadan we were repeatedly held up.
Brian Knox - London (Oct 97)

The Zand, east of Shohada Square was under construction; traffic was not closed off but it was impossible to cross the Zand by foot there as far down as the bazaar-e Vakil, entailing significent detours.

Bogh'e-ye Shah-e Cheragh; possibly because this is the first shrine I went in, I thought that the mirror tilework inside was amazing. It turned out that I didn't see anything comparable or as spectacular in other shrines for the whole of the rest of my trip to Iran.

In Kerman, The Kerman Contemporary Arts Museum is definitely worth seeing. The art by Sanatee (with captions in English) are mainly tilework pictures. In another gallery there is a display of photographs of contemporary Iran (but not labelled in English). Some appear to depict scenes from the Iran-Iraq war and it's effect on the civillian population.

In Yazd - Lariha House is shown in the brochure published by the Organisation of Culture and Islamic Relations. A taxi driver offered to take me there, claiming that it was very beautiful. I didn't have time but later I couldn't find it on any map. It may be worth checking out. It appears to have a big wind-tower and some reflecting pools.

Also in the Organisation of Culture and Islamic Relations brochure is a picture of "Shesh Bagdir" (6 Wind Towers). Some Spanish tourist I met tried to tell me about it but we couldn't find a way to communicate the directions so I didn't see it. It is almost certianly within the Old City, though.

In Tehran, the best murals to be seen are on the wall along Taleghani Street at the US embassy.
Richard G.A. Bone, UK (Apr 99)

In Takab I found a nice, though at first sight, unspectacular teahouse. What was special about it were the old men reading poems in the local dialect to each other at night. To get there, walk down the street into town from the Randji and turn left at the second roundabout. After a few metres you will find it in a small storefront on the left.
christoph Dreyer, Germany (Oct 98)

During a trip to Iran in May 1998, I read two articles in the newspaper about the opening of a new Cinema Museum in Tehran. This was front page news and was attended by all the top chaps from the Ministry of Culture along with filmmaker Abbas Kiarostami. The museum has a huge range of archive material - posters, books, clippings etc and is located downtown in Pirnia Street which is off Lalezar Now Street. I tried to visit with an Iranian friend but was told by the woman who opened the door that they had "no programme" for people to visit yet as they had just opened. I am sure that this place will be worth seeking out if you're into cinema and perhaps they have a programme now.
Mark Hunt (Oct 98)

I found many shops were refusing to accept VISA cards for purchases (stickers on windows were either torn off or covered over) but other credit cards seemed OK. When I asked one shop-owner, he simply said it was a new government rule.
Gary Spinks (Jun 98)

While in Tehran you must check out the Crown Jewels which are absolutely stunning. Located in the Iranian Federal Bank near the Bazaar area. Open only some days of the week.
Harish T (May 98)

Iran can be thoroughly recommended for the western traveller. The people are extremely friendly and kind, the scenery absolutely magnificent and the prices very cheap. Customs were a breeze, I was just waved through with my bags. In 11 days travel through Iran in April 1998, there were no problems with security forces and police roadblocks seem to be a thing of the past. I was amazed how normal the country was.

I found Bandar Anzali to be a lovely town with plenty for the tourist. For example, tourist can do a very interesting boat trip out on to the Caspian Sea and the wonderful Mordab E Anzali lagoon. There is also a small public beach next to the western breakwater, the promenade is very good and backed by a very nice park where the western traveller will not be alone long before being engaged in friendly conversation by Iranians.
Garry Telford (Apr 98)

There is a Zoroastrian fire temple in Isfahan located on Nazar East St. 24, just opposite to Zoroastiran Association. Ask for Mr. Ardeshir who will be pleased to tell you about the temple and Zoroastirans in Isfahan. The temple is quite new as it was built right after the Islamic revolution.
Blaz Zabukovec

I went skiing in Diniz which is a 2 1/2 hour drive north of Tehran into the Alborz mountains. The road is very good quality but four wheel drive or chains essential for the last 10-12 km because of snow. I found superb quality snow, no queues and a day lift pass for 25,000 Riyals. It is quick, cheap and easy to hire boots and skies and even clothing in the village. The only hassle is the touts trying to persuade tourists to take a private instructor, though of course by any standard the cost is cheap (30,000 Riyals for the whole day).

The skiing area is only second best to European or North American resorts in size. Uplift is via two four man gondolas from the village centre at 2700 m to a height of 3500 m. There are drag lifts and a chair lift at locations around or a short ski form the gondola stations. At that height snow quality is superb, but the skiing is, of course, above the tree line. The slopes are relatively easy with at the most short spells of piste that could pass for no more than red on the European scale. It is a great day out form the noise and fuel fumes of Tehran. There are small hotels, apartments and restaurants in the village, though we didn't sample any of them. Weekends (Thursday and particularly Friday) are said to be busy.
Dr. Neil Wilson - UK (Feb 98)

Apparently you don't have to save the money changing receipts for when you leave the country. We changed a lot on the black market and weren't asked to show any receipts at the Iran/Pakistan border.
Trygve Jensen (Feb 98)

We took a major detour to Mashad to visit the Emam Roza Shrine and whilst it was spectacular to see, we felt a great sense of frustration at not being able to see more. We heard of some people allowed into the shrine after claiming they were Muslims, but it appears that now most non-muslim foreigners are very closely supervised at the site.

We had a guide who made sure we didn't stray. Of course, it's a holy shrine and Muslim sensibilities have to be respected. But the amount you can see inside is limited. I think many travellers will feel like we did, that having arrived at "the Vatican" we weren't able to see the "Sistine Chapel".
Mark Nicholls & Sharon Peake - UK (Dec 97)

The Iranian Tourist Department seems to have decided to hike admission charges for tourists. In some cases, the entry fees were quite a shock to us.

However, with an ISIC card you could get a reduction, sometimes a fraction off the full price, at other times to the price paid by Iranians.
Mark Nicholls & Sharon Peake - UK (Dec 97)

There is no ferry from Oman to Iran.It took a lot of phoning around to get this information so although not many travel to Iran this way, this information could save someone a lot of time.

I went to Lenge and although it is a very uninteresting place in itself, it is an easy place to start in Iran. Lenge also has an airport and I was able to fly on the day after arrival to Shiraz for less than US$10.
Jon Lynn, UK (Feb 99

The roads in Turkey and Iran that pass through the mountains are always hazardous during the winter due to avalanches and stones falling. I advise you not to travel those roads unless you check the weather and its going to be sunny .if you go take all precautions for winter driving such as extra meals and blankets and gloves and make sure you can get around if stranded.
Hossein, taken from the Thorn Tree (Dec 98)

The location of the Iran Air office is along Kheyabun-e Shahid Doktor Mofatteh. If you walk along this last street (heading north-west) it's on the left-hand side about 200 metres from the junction with Kh Bam ju.

Minibuses from Shiraz to Marvdasht now leave from the main bus terminal in Shiraz.
Aernout Nieuwkerk (June 98)

The ferry Baku-Bandar Anzali does now run. I had the misfortune to be in Bandar Anzali on a religious holiday followed by a Friday, so the office was closed and I couldn't obtain accurate information. A local thought it runs about twice a week each way and costs 150,000 IR return.
Garry Telford (Apr 98)

In Tabriz the bus station has shifted. Now its 5 kms south of the centre. A warning for travellers. On coming out of the bus station, the traveller will be assailed by a group of up to 10 taxi drivers all demanding you get into their cab. When I went to go with one of them, the others accused him of stealing "their" customer and an all out brawl started in the car park. I never encountered problems with taxi drivers anywhere else in Iran, even In Tehran they're relatively civil. The only solution seems to be to rapidly try and locate a pre-paid taxi fare office on the right as you come out into the car park.
Garry Telford (Apr 98)

Lake Ourimiyah causeway is 80% complete but not likely to be finished due to deep water (16 metres here according to the ferryman). The ferry takes about 20 cars, sails when full (every 40 minutes on average) and the crossing takes 20 minutes. A railway line is being built to Ourimiyeh.
Garry Telford (Apr 98)

Boat to Jazire E Ghayun Daghi (Lake Ourimiyeh) runs summer only. Due to language problems at the Dept of Environment office, I could not clarify what dates the boat starts and finishes. It runs 'most days', but I could not get times or prices out of them, only that it was 'not expensive'. As I understand, tickets can be obtained from the Dept of Environment Ourimiyeh. However, it appears this office does not have the authority to issue the necessary permit for the island. This has to be obtained in Teheran which takes 'about two days'.

Despite the difficulties, the island looks well worth going to judging from the tourist pamphlet they gave me. Incidentally, the Dept of Environment Ourimiyeh have shifted. They are now 2 kms west of the centre. I could not establish a street address.
Garry Telford (Apr 98)

There is now a bus service from Tashaus Railway station to Ashghabat through Karakul. The bus station in Ashghabat has moved to the airport, about 1-11/2 hrs walk from the train station. Foreigners can take the bus from Ashghabat to Mashad (Iran) for US$12. Tickets sell out quickly; get there early. Border crossing is at Gaudan-Baggiran. Both police in Ashghabat and Turkmen customs/immigration at Gaudan border post tried to shake me down for dollars - I stood my ground and they gave up.
Mr Inge Sollerud - Norway (Dec 97)