MALDIVES

It was time to leave the beautiful Maldives, after ten days of great surfing, good food, new acquaintances, and almost complete isolation from the other world. Our plane departed at 1 am, so with no need to rush to the airport, we decided to have our last surf, last supper and last few drinks at the bar. We said our goodbyes and promised to return very soon. I was silently wishing for that an intervening factor would prolong our stay and dreamt of more beers in the bar. I knew the guys that remained were glad that in the morning there would be four less surfers on the break. If I had only known then how close my wishes had come to be fulfilled. Our high seas drama was about to be enacted in real life.

Moments after our departure, monsoonal wind had pushed our dhoni onto the reef just outside the resort and we were stuck on it. Very quickly two of the boaties jumped into the ocean to assist our removal from the Reef and after sometime we were released and continued on into the open channels where we had been told it was much safer. Upon asking one of the boat boys what went wrong, he calmly advised that our captain steered the boat to the right, instead of the left, - a simple mistake but one that could have been made by the most experienced captain of the Exxon-Valdez.

This little drama over, we were once again off into the dark unknown, passing the lights of a number of islands on the way and with plenty of time up our sleeves before check-in time. My thoughts now reflected on the adventures of the previous ten days.In the back of my mind was amazement at how these local boaties knew where all the coral reefs and channels were.They didn't even need survey maps of the many reefs and channels of the Maldives as they must have an impeccable knowledge of this enormous reef system. Running lights must have also been considered an over-the-top accessory, as we didn't have any. With the Airport Island lights in the horizon, there was no turning back and I had resigned myself to the fact that the other world was calling. I was pleasantly surprised when my desire for further adventure was satisfied.

As we attempted to cross a narrow channel between reefs, our navigator misjudged and once again we were stuck. But this time there was no island twenty metres away, nor five hundred metres away. The lights from the closest island were still far away in the distance. Being all-round sailors, our crew were not to be phased by this minor hiccup. One of the crew members thought it would be a good idea to radio for help. We watched as he located the radio, placed in the batteries and turned it on. So simple, but unfortunately that was as far as he got. He coyly explained that he did not know what channel to use.

Not doubting the ability of our crew, I thought it would be a good idea to put my booties on and locate my flippers. I suspected that some marathon style swimming could be on the cards, in the not-too-distant future and wanted to be prepared. I couldn't make up my mind if it would be better to paddle my surfboard with or without the board-cover on. This thought contained me for a while. As quick as a flash, another boatie took charge and dived into the dark sea with the anchor in his hand - we grabbed a torch to try and locate where this lad had gone and eventually he popped up about 50 metres from the boat, yellowing out to his mates. He had decided to wedge the anchor in the reef and our task was to drag the boat towards it. This process was repeated a number of times. Unfortunately it did not appear to be doing much good. It appeared that we were being dragged further into the danger zone. Suddenly a freak wave broke over the stern and our taxi was free again. We continued on with our uneventful taxi ride to the airport and the long plane journey back home.

Alex Sacker (July 98)

Meeru Island is currently closed from May to November, 1998 for the purpose of upgrading. They are building a swimming pool and thirty plus accommodation huts on the waters edge and pulling down the older accommodation blocks. We believe that the resort will the be upgraded.
Mr. & Mrs. Hall (May 98)

For detailed up-to-date travel information check out Lonely Planet's Destination Maldives.


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