SPAIN

  • Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
  • Travel Tips
  • Moving About
  • Gems, Highlights & Attractions
  • Scams & Warnings

    Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings

    Citizens of Australia, Canada, Israel, Japan, New Zealnd, Norway, Switzerland and the USA no longer need visas for tourist visits of up to three months to any Schengen country.
    Lisa (Mar 99)

    Change of Address of the Australian Embassy in Spain:
    Embajada de Australia
    Plaza del Descubridor Diego de Ordßs 3-2a
    Edificio Santa Engracia 120
    28003 Madrid
    Phone: (91) 441 9300; fax: (91) 442 5362
    If coming in person, the entry is at Calle Santa Engracia no 120, next to the Fire Brigade Metro Rios Rosas.
    Australian Embassy, Spain (Aug 98)

    Travel Tips

    Many monuments in Adalucia and Portugal have senior's discount, usually 50%, sometimes even free. Always ask. This can add up if you travel as we do.
    Roman & Sheila Russek (Apr 99)

    If it's raining in Granada (or you can't get into the Alhambra) drive up the Sierra Nevada mountain- there are lots of signposts from the motorway - to the snow line. Skiing is available most of the year and there are brilliant treks.
    Mary Ryan (Apr 99)

    If you have currencies from any of the countries which are going to use the Euro in 2002, you can change them to Spanish pesetas without paying any commission and at the irrevocable rate going to the National Bank (Banco de Espana). At the beginning of this year, the government told the commercial banks not to charge any commision and they continued to do so to keep their profits. The answer is change to the National Bank. Almost nobody uses this service as people have continued to change money at banks and private moneychangers sometimes at ominous rates. In Madrid the National Bank is in calle de Alcala very near the Plaza de Cibeles, not far from Prado Museum and other attractions. The bank is a very impressive building and is worth the visit. They change money at post 31 at the central hall.
    Unknown (Apr 99)

    Make sure that you have a reservation before you arrive in Spain as it is cheaper. Also, bring your student card, as most places can be less than half price.
    Azita Ashragian, Israel(Apr 99)

    If you are going to ring around the hostels etc. to make bookings, (only some of them speak English, and many don't have fax machines) you may find that when you think you have booked a room, and you even send a letter in Spanish to confirm the booking, it may not exsist when you turn up they say they have never heard of you.... I'm still not sure how to avoid this??
    Richard Davie (Apr 99)

    As of January 1999, the Ruta Modernista ticket in Barcelona doesn't work as described in the September, 1998 postcard below. Now you pay 600 pts (400 pts for students) and receive 50% discount on any of the entrances of the modernista buildings. It's still worth while if you go to at least three of the most expensive buidlings/museums.
    Marije Jeltes, The Netherlands (Mar 99)

    We would especially like to warn travellers about the La Rambla area of Barcelona. Almost every tourist we met was robbed, pickpocketed or mugged in the streets immediately east and west of La Rambla. We had no problems because we used common sense and dressed very plainly, wore no jewellery, carried simple backpacks with our belongings and carried our money and ID in simple pouches in our front pockets with only a few thousand pesetas at a time. We especially avoided the groups of youths with dogs who seemed to be hanging in the local squares near tourist cafes.
    David Green, USA (Mar 99)

    Closed bus stations seemed to be a theme in Spain. In Granda, the old Alsina Graelis bus station appears to have fallen into disuse. The "Neuva" Estacion de Autobuses is on Avendia de Anchade Capuchinos (bus no 3 to Plaza Isobel Catolua). Unfortunately I didn't realise this and wandered about in circles trying to find the "close" youth hostel. The Youth Hostel is on 2 Ramon y Cajal and not Camino Ronda - and while it is close to the train station, it is miles from the centre of town. I wouldn't recommend it - it's no longer near the bus station and you can walk down main streets to Plaza Isobel Catalica from the train station in 15-20 minutes (or catch a bus). This is a general comment on Youth Hostels in Spain - they are way overpriced especially if you are 26 years or over
    Marry Dickson, UK (Jan 99)

    If you are in Spain during spring time, I suggest attending La Feria festival in Valencia. It is an incredible exhibition of paper mache sculptures, some are up to 50 feet in height, scattered throughout the city. The sculptures are in beautiful bright colours,usually making a political comment. Some would be considered quite risque by American standards. At the end of the festival, a few sculptures are preserved and the rest are burned. A must see.
    Laura Lenardson, USA (Jan 99)

    I recommend visiting Galicia on the north-west coast of Spain. It has beautiful beaches and coast line, the people are very friendly and it is cheap in comparison to the other regions.

    Travellers can try the "Camino de Santiago" a pilgrim route from France to Santiago de Compostela which is an awesome experience where you will meet people from all over the world, visit beautiful places and end in the city of Santiago de Compostela - said to become the cultural capital of Europe in the year 2000.
    Seve Castroman Souto, Spain (Oct 98)

    If you are in Madrid and you want to visit the three big museums (Prado, ReinaSofia and Thyssen) instead of getting a pass for all three, it is cheaper to buy individual tickets if you have an ISIC card. Also, in the Prado, look for the guides in the corridors of the museum for certain artists. They are really cheap, handy and make a great souvenir as well.

    For football fans there is now an underground stop at Santiago Bernabeu.

    Don't miss the Puerta de Atocha train station with the tropical garden and the Plaza de Cibeles which is so popular among the Madrilenos.

    It's worth spending some time in the massive Retiro park for its beauty.
    Chris Onisiphorou, UK (Sept 98)

    As of June, 1998, each telephone number in the Catalunya region, including Barcelona, now begins with the prefix 93.

    The main tourist office in Barcelona, the "Catalunya Office de Turisme" has moved from Gran via de les Corts Catalanes in L'Eixample. It is now situated under the placa de Catalunya on the passeig de Gracia side of the placa, opposite the El Corte Ingles department stores. It is open every day from 9 am until 9 pm during the summer period.

    In the LP guide, it was mentioned that the cable car which goes from the harbour in Barcelona over to Montjuic was closed. It is now operating again and is well worth a trip. The view of the city and harbour are breathtaking. A one way trip is 1000 pesetas.
    Nick Parissis, Australia (Oct 98)

    Pyrenees, Cataluna - south east of the Parc Nacional d'Aiglestortes on the road from Sort to La Pobla de Segur is a huge gorge. It is now bypassed by tunnels. The old road along the gorge is open for walkers (with two car parks before and after the e string of tunnels). It is huge and easily dwarfs the famed Katherine Gorge in Australia. Definitely worth a wonder.

    As mentioned in a previous postcard, quite a few route numbers in Andalusia have been redesignated. But not only there. A major street upgrading and redesignating scheme seems to have taken place recently in Spain. Even the (otherwise very good) brand new 1998 Michelin Spain and Portugal road atlas turned out not to be 100% accurate.
    Jochen Beier, Germany (Oct 98)

    The town of Candelario is a very beautiful place between El Barco de Avila and Bejar. It has very small streets which go up the mountains of the "Sierra de Gredors". The town comes alive in the evening when the Spanish people come out of their monumental houses and meet each other on the Plaza Mayor. Tourism has arrived, but not in a big sort.
    Erik & Marianne Willemse, The Netherlands (Sept 98)

    Barcelona has done tourists a great favour by introducing a Modernisme Multi-Ticket, giving entry and/or guided tours to the major modernisme sites around the city. From around 1500 pesetas for adults, 900 pesetas for students, the pass allows the following :

  • a guided tour looking at Casas Morera, Amatller and Batllo on the Manzana de la Discordia;
  • entry and guided tour of La Pedrera;
  • entry to the Casa-Museo Gaudi in Parc Guell
  • entry and a guided tour of La Sagrada Familia;
  • entry and a guided tour of the Palau de la Musica Catalana;
  • entry and a guided tour of the Palau Guell;
  • free entry into the Museu d'Art Modern in La Ciutadella and the Fundacio Tapies.

    Given that entry to La Sagrada alone is 800 pesetas for adults, it is rather a good deal, especially as it enables entry to the Palau de la Musica five days a week, without having to go to the usual bother of calling up to arrange a tour in advance. The passes are sold primarily from the Center del Modernisme office on the first floor of the Casa Lleo Morera on the Manazana de la Discordia (tel : 488 01 39) A guidebook detailing all modernisme architecture of note on the Ruta del Moderisme and a page giving opening times and scheduling of guided visited are provided upon payment. Moreover, if you have the luxury of time, the pass is valid for 30 days (saves you getting Gaudi-ed out).
    Susan Kelly & Brian Agnew, UK (Sept 98)

    We planned a day trip to Santillana del Mar and Puerte Viesgo - a couple of hours drive made worse by the traffic jams over the bridge at San Vincente de la Barquera (which it seems, is a regular occurrence), only to be disappointed with the caves at Puerte Viesgo.

    The LP says " you may have to wait until a big enough group has been assembled." We did not get a look in and wouldn't have done for two days. Bookings only were being taken and we were going home by then. Groups of twenty were allowed in at half hourly intervals throughout the day. So, just as a warning for future visitors so they do not have to settle for a couple of postcards rather than seeing the real thing. A telephone call a day or so in advance would be useful.

    Also, the road to Cain at the southern end of the Garganta del Cares is now passable by car.
    A Drinkwater (Aug 98)

    The Alhambra complex is no longer free on Sundays - the cost is 750 pstas. Also the Cathedral in Granada was closed on Sunday afternoon.
    Billy Macmillan, UK (July 98)

    Opened since January, 1997, the Erotic Museum in Barcelona (tel: +34 971676971; fax +34 9716676683) offers themes of ancient civilization and contemporary erotic art as well as diverse themes based on the "imagination of erotic games" (sadomashochism, fetishism, sensuality, chastity belts, sex aids, postcards from the beginning of the century, pin-ups, erotic comics, phallic symbols, erotic voice, erotic lingerie etc) to contemplate the infinite erotic creativity of all human beings.
    Suzanne Lampard (July 98)

    Anyone who plans to stay a couple of days in these cities should invest in the multi travel tickets (tarjetas multiviajes) which give you ten rides for 675 ptas in Madrid, 750 ptas in Barcelona, saving you nearly 50% per ride.
    Benj Osborn (May 98)

    Montgo is a mountain which overlooks Javea, Costa Blanca, and from certain angles bears an uncanny resemblance to an elephant's head. It is possible to get to the top, from where there are truly spectacular views or to descend into the large cave visible on its side, though both are not possible on the same route. Information about routes can be obtained from the Tourist Information Office on the main road which is set back from the Arenal (beach area).
    Benj Osborn (May 98)

    The area around Competa in the region Arxanquia (north-east of Malaga) can be recommended for good trekking and walking. It is possible to do relatively light walks to neighbouring villages such as Cannilas, Corumbela or Archez. Very nice are also the walks through the valleys of the small rivers in around Competa. Near Arenas is the Bentomiz hill with the ruins of a Moorish castle and spectacular views on the coastline of the Costa del Sol and the hills and mountains of the hinterland. For the more demanding walks you could go up in the beautiful mountains of the Sierra Almijara and Sierra Tejeda with views on at the same time the sea and the white capped mountains of the Sierra Nevada. Don't expect nice smooth walking paths, but most of the time the paths are - with appropriate walking boots or shoes - good to manage. At a local shop called "Marco Polo"you can buy recent maps (1:50.000). More useful for walkers is a small booklet with descriptions and sketches of 25 walks around Competa and Cannilas. Especially recommendable is the walk from Competa or Cannilas to the so-called "Salto de Caballo" at about 1.600 m height. Although the climb is long (you have to master 1.000m difference in height), sometimes steep, the path upwards is good and easy to find and the views very rewarding.
    Ton Langenhuyzen (Apr 98)

    For a birds-eye view over Barcelona.go to the 21st level of the Banco Atlantico building. Istitut d'Estudis de la Meditarrania is a centre dedicated to promote intercultural exchanges among the countries of the Mediterranean sea. They are in level 21 on Banco Atlantico. The place is open to the public and you are free to visit their exhibits. Get there using the elevators in the south west side of the tower. When you reach level 21, there is a public WC with windows facing the streets. The views are breathtaking. The address is Institut d' Estudis de la Mediterrania, Banco Atlantico tower, level 21, Av. Diagonal, 407, Barcelona.
    Christina Carrasco & Manel Roca Marco (May 98)

    In Valencia the first part of the "City of Culture and Science" opened in April, in a building called L'HemisfFric". Its quite impressive, built by Spanish born architect Santiago Calatrava who also created one of the expo bridges in Sevilla.

    L'HemisfFric has the shape of an human eye and the "iris" is a ball shaped auditorium where IMAX movies are shown. There is also a projector for planetarium and laser equipment. The movies are the usual IMAX stuff with their innate US technology pathos, but they are impressive because of their effects.

    In Spring the rest of the Arts and Science City will open : A "Palace of Arts", a "Museum of Science" (both projected by Calatrava) and an "Oceanographic Park", where the seas are presented in a submarine city.

    This complex, quite impressive because of its architecture, is located in the east of the city, about a kilometre from the Mediterranean. Buses leave from behind the main post office.
    Jost Maurin (May 98)

    As of 5th April, 1998,. To call inside a Spanish city, you have to dial the full local prefix (eg in Madrid, dial 91 before all the telephone numbers of this city; in Barcelona dial 93 before a normal local number). This applies also to call Spain from another country (eg to call Madrid, dial int. + 34 + 91 + the number you want). All telephone numbers have two digits more, all beginning with 9.
    Emanuela Appetiti (Apr 98)

    While your book correctly warns of the hordes that descend on the Alhambra and mentions that it is necessary to buy tickets that provide for admission to the palace only during a specified half-hour, we were unprepared for the two-hour wait to buy the tickets and the six plus hour delay before we could enter the palace.
    Leo Orenstein (Apr 98)

    We arrived at the Alhambra Palace at about 11.30 am having paid to park in the car park. There was a lengthy queue stretching some 200 yards. We were handed leaflets by an attendant giving information about the timed ticketing system. We continued to queue for about 1 1/2 hours when the gates were closed and a notice posted saying that no more tickets were to be sold that day, despite the palace remaining open until 7 pm. Clearly, even if one had arrived at 10.30 am there would have been little chance of getting a ticket in view of the numbers in front of us. What was rather annoying was that the queue was allowed to continue even though there was no chance of obtaining tickets.

    The moral is either (a), arrive very early, or (b) buy tickets in advance, or (c) go on a coach trip since clearly coaches took a substantial number of the available tickets.
    Jon Wood (Apr 98)

    Getting tickets for the Alhambra in Granada is difficult. Ticket sales start at 9 am; I queued for an hour and a half and got an admission for 4.30 pm that day. However, one can book in advance by fax. It has to be at least seven days in advance and the fax number is 958 (Granada Province code) 210 584. Telephone information : 220 912.
    Richard Collins (Apr 98)

    Travellers planning to drive in Spain should be advised that many route numbers have been redesignated (at least in the parts of Andalusia in which we drove) and that it is worth investing in a new and detailed road map. The 1995 German printed road map of Spain we brought with us from the US proved to be worse than useless.
    Leo Orenstein (Apr 98)

    I picked up a brochure "Ruta del Modernisme" about a type of "Rover" ticket which can be bought to enable access to 50 wonderful buildings. The Palau de la Musica Catalana won't allow visitors beyond the foyer without it.

    LP mentioned getting permission in advance to go up on to the roof of the La Pedera building to view the wonderful Antoni Gaudi chimneys. I thought I'd let you know that you can now visit an internal ticket office on the street to the right of the building facade and take a lift or stairs immediately. An exhibition in the wonderful "attic" shows, on different monitors, the extensive selection of Gaudi architucture to be visited in Barcelona.
    Diane Shaw (Apr 98)

    La Pedrera is now open to visitors on top floor and roof. Superb collection of slides and models of a selection of Gaudi buildings and interiors. Not to be missed. Open daily 10 am - 8 pm. Espai Gaudi La Pedrera, Provenca 261 - 265, 08008 Barcelona (tel) +93 484 5995).
    Anne & Harry Hodgkinson (Mar 98)

    There is a Coto Donana Visitors' Centre now established in the "Fabrica de Hielo" on the Bajo de Guia. This has displays on the Coto Donana and its history and wildlife as well as the maritime history of Sanlucar (telephone: 38 16 35).
    Michael & Sandra Snook - UK (Nov 1997)

    Trekked from Llorts to Estanys de L'Angonella and the lakes. The footpath is well marked, and is a steady climb from this side of the mountain. From the first lake, the painted red and yellow trail swings up to the top of Pic de les Fonts, offering spectacular views. From here you ridge walk on the trail to Pic de Percanela, where there are a choice of routes. From this summit, left takes you down to Ordino but is not that well marked. The red and yellow trail drops down to the right, and on to Arinsal. Taking about 5 hours in total, the scenery is fantastic once above the tree line. From Arinsal there are regular buses to La Massana, with connections to Andorra.
    Duncan Webster - England (Nov 97)

    Moving About

    Taking a day trip from Seville to Cordoba is quick and easy, but potentially quite expensive if you get the TVE. Another thing, if you don't understand what the person is saying as they hand over your outbound ticket; they are telling you to RE-PRESENT your ticket at the station from which you want to return in order to buy the actual return portion. You should avoid finding this out five minutes before your train leaves...
    Richard Davie (Apr 99)

    When visiting El Saler beach that is 10km south the buses in this area are not easily found as they are not operated by the standard EMT, but a company called Herca (these buses are blue instead of red). The bus stops themselves can be hard to find, but tend to be located nearby standard EMT stops. The buses only run every 40-50 minutes and on hot days you may not be able to get on the first bus that comes along. The trip for us took about 1.5 hours as we decided to go on a public holiday and the traffic to this particular area was rather heavy, but it would still take approx. 30 minutes.
    Simone Clark (Apr 99)

    Renting a car is recommended around Madrid, cause all the attractions are a fair drive out of Madrid.
    Azita Ashragian, Israel(Apr 99)

    For tours around Seville, buses to Italica leave from the bus station located at the Plaza del Armas, next to the river. You do not catch the bus to Santiponce from Seville's Plaza de San Sebastian bus station.
    Dr. Ian D. Goodwin (June 98)

    Since January 98 a combined Metro and bus ticket, the MetroBus, became available. This ticket can be used for the Metro, on regular buses (not the airport bus) and also on the night buses (buhos). Ten rides cost 670 PTAs and you can share these tickets.

    Madrid's main bus station has a new location. It is located at Metro Mendez Alvaro (line circular). The station is a bright and quite nice building with direct access from the Metro. The old station is not used anymore.

    Granda has a new bus station, located quite far form the city centre. For getting to the centre, take bus number three which leaves directly in front of the bus station and goes to Gran Via. A bus ticket costs 60 PTA's leaving from the bus station, but a regular bus ticket costs 115 PTA.
    Lars Peter - Germany (Feb 98)

    For bikers travelling to Gibralter , the motorcycle club: Gibraltar Motorcycle club, 6 East Side Road, Gibraltor ( 79049; fax 75362, email: luisbike@gibnet.gi will give free bed to any travelling motorcyclists in one of their 20 bunk beds in a building built for the purpose with adjacent showers and toilets. A donation to club funds is invited, but not compulsory. As the facilities are free, they do not like people taking advantage by staying more than a week and using the place as a free holiday. There is a like club at Faro Portugal: Moto Clube De Faro, Sitio Vale Da Amoreira, 328A-8000 Faro, Algarve. (/fax (089) 823845. As I mentioned, this is strictly for bikers only, though one hardly has to be a bearded/hells angel type.
    Peter Langdon - UK (Nov 97)

    Gems, Highlights & Attractions

    Galicia is easily the most underrated region in Spain - travellers will be blown away by Galica's beautiful beaches, green countryside and cultural sites.

    Santiago de Compostela shouldn't be missed especially during the summer of 1999 when the pelegrino celebrate "The Way of St. James" or El Camino de Santiago. Travellers from all over the world will gather in front of the Cathedral for the festivities. The main festivities begins July 24 and I recommend arriving early to plan your day carefully because finding a spot in the square this year won't be easy. If you can't squeeze into the square, you'll find that the party spills into the streets. But fear not, the rest of Galicia is virtually tourist free.

    You will be surprised at Galicia's Celtic heritage which still holds very strong today. In fact, some of the world's best "gaiteros" (galician bag pipe players) hail from this celtic land, and so does some of the best food in the world (famous all over Spain)
    Tomas Dosil Tobio, Canada (Feb 99)

    Jerez de la Frontera is located in the southern most province of Europe, Cadiz and is the world centre of sherry wine production (in fact Jerez means "sherry"). de al Frontera refers to the fact that this town, along with nearby Arcos, formed the border between Muslim and Christian territory after the conquest of Granada by the Catholic Kings, Isabel and Ferdinand.

    To this day, on Saturday afternoons, women can be seen darting about madly looking very busy as if on purpose. This is because Jewish converts in 1492, trying to avoid the suspicion of their Christian brothers, went out of their way to be very busy on the Jewish Sabbath. As for an echo of the Muslims, aside from the dark olive skin of the Andalusian and the continuing presence of Moroccan immigrants, in Jerez there is a very fine, off-the-beaten-path, underground Muslim tea house, where one can drink fresh mint teas and coffee with sheep's milk while playing chess, parchesi or canoodling with a friend on a sumptuous pillow.

    Very attractive, cheap tours are available at the bodegas (Gonazalez Byass, Domecq, Sandeman) where sherry is processed. The Gonzalez Bypass tour culminates with a generous sampling of sherries accompanied by olives, cheese and bread. Not to be missed.

    Jerez also has a humdinger of a Semana Santa (Holy Week) which is very moving, even for the agnostic. The ancient practice of career penance is alive and well in Jerez de la Frontera, as some people, made a lifelong commitment to help carry a one 1/2 ton statue and platform made in honour of Christ Crucified.

    Auto racing enthusiasts will appreciate the Formula One race track on the outskirts of Jerez, with racing all summer long. Jerez is also famous all over Europe for a fine horse show. Jerez Mayfair (la feria) is a good place to dance like a fool, get very drunk and make friends with lots of Jerezanos that would love to practice their broken English with you and giggle warm heartedly at your horrid Spanish. The people are charming, animated, very frank and helpful in all things. The summer weather is hot, but dry. Nearby Chipiona, Rota and Cadiz have beautiful beaches to boast. For the thrill seeker, I suggest a day trip to Gibraltar about 80 km south. A real hoot. Where else in the world can you talk to a cabby with both a colourful English accent and an impeccable Andalusian Spanish? Beware of the rock apes !
    Manuel J. Grimaldi, USA (Nov 98)

    If you have time to spend in Andalucia, don't miss a trip to Ronda, a Morrish kingdom in the mountains. It took over an hour to reach from our hotel in Fuenirola on the coast and the ride through the mountains may not be suited for those who don't take well to heights or twisting narrow road, but it was well worth the trip. The views from Ronda are exquisite and beautiful sights abound. Ronda is charming and breathtaking and shouldn't be missed.

    Many people have mentioned that it is very difficult to get into the Alhambra in Granada. I went as part of a group and had no problem getting in. Despite the inconvenience that some have experienced, people shouldn't be discouraged from trying to get in. The palace is amazing and the Gernerallife gardens are incredibly beautiful.
    Kacey (Aug 98)

    When travelling along the south east coast of Spain (Costa Blanca) make sure that you spend at least one day in the coastal beach town of Nerja. The town is perched above rugged white cliffs that fall sharply to reveal secluded sandy beaches. Along the pathway at the bottom of the cliffs, each traveller is lured in by their own priveate sandy beach - courtesy of the numerous boulders, weach with their own personality, that segment the shoreline. Many travellers will not even make it to the beach though - it is often too enticing to lose yourself along the paths that weave through the lush greenery, separating the cliffs form the sea.
    Paul Ichilcik (Aug)

    While in Montserrat we were told an interesting little story. Apparently Napoleon's army occupied these mountains at one time. In an attempt to remove these soldiers one enterprising young man, from a local village in the valley, walk up Montserrat beating his drum. The acoustics of the rock formations were such that the single drum echoed around to sound like many drums. On hearing these sounds, the invading army thought that they were being approached by the front line of a huge formidable army and fled. There is now a statue to this young man in his village, but unfortunately, the narrator of this story was unable to recall its exact location.
    Anusah Edwards (July 98)

    In Pais Vasco, Urquiola, there is a sanctuary on the road from Vitoria to Durango, a little south of Durango in the mountains. It is an unusual church which you will find sitting on a hill at the top of a stairway to your right as you are driving over the mountain pass of Urquiola. We didn't know it was there, but you cannot overlook it. We stopped and walked up the stairway and saw at once that there was something really unusual about its layout. It looked like they had planned to build a cathedral but before they were through with half of it, changed their minds. The rest is a well kept grassy ground among walls and bases of pillars they never constructed. The building is in excellent state. When we entered the church, we found out more about this mysterious place. The priest, who had just switched off the lights, and was about to lock up was more than willing to tell us everything we might have wanted to know. The church stands on an ancient site of worship which dates back to before the Christians. When the first Christian missionaries arrived, they built a church here then eventually a second after the first one had come down; the present building is the third known in the place. It had been begun in the 1920's but they realised that they were going to run out of money when they had just built half the nave, the choir stalls, the altar and apses in the front section of the cathedral so they erected a provisional wall across the nave around half way down the planned length of it to be torn down once they had refloated their finances and could go on building. It was left at that until the 1970's though the church was used regularly for services and celebrations. In the 1970's a group of retired church men arrived and had an expert made to optimise the site. Finally they chose a project which proposed to change the interior radically and to transform the provisional state into a permanent one The project was daring and modern, the architect suggested to tear down the retablo behind the altar, eliminate the choir stalls and move the altar to stand before the provisional wall now made permanent so as to create room for a more numerous congregation than would have entered in the much bigger cathedral had it been completed as initially planned. The provisional wall was made permanent, reinforced and embellished on the interior with a simple and beautiful mosaic, depicting the four season in the flowing lines and lively colour full of movement. The result is a place of worship in the true sense of the word.
    Yvonne Steinmann (July 98)

    On the last Wednesday of August every year is La Tomatina, the Tomato Festival. It is one of the best festivals in Europe and is based in Bunol, Valencia.

    When I was there in 1997, 200,000 kilos were thrown in the streets of Bunol. Normally a sleepy town, Bunol explodes with mainly Spanish tourists on this one day of the year. If you are in Spain for Pamplona in July, make sure you travel down to Valencia for the Tomato Festival in August.
    Mark Baroni (Mar 98)

    Tehre is a pilgrimage road that came from ages ago and what is called El Camino de Santiago (The way to Saint James) that was very popular in the middle age. Santiago is at the northwest end of Spain (Barcelona is northeast) near the so-called Finis Terrae (the end of the land). In Santiago is supposed to be the tomb of Saint James the Apostle. The way of Santiago (the Lactean way) started in many places in Europe so there are many points of approach.

    For more information you can go: http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Cabana/4700/index.htm and also: http://www.galinor.es/c-santiago/
    Paco (Feb 98)

    I was lucky to visit Port Lligat a few days after Casa Dali opened. They let people enter the house in small groups every ten minutes and it takes about 40 minutes to see the whole house and its grounds. My whole hearted recommendation on the visit - a magnificent and unique place, where Dali's genius is seen in every room and corner.
    Efrat Elron - Israel (Oct 97)

    Scams & Warnings

    Having stayed in Barcelona a few weeks in the Barrio Gothico, I found out that, besides it being a wonderful place, it is also a nest of pick pockets. The general scam involves luring you into a conversation on football, then sticking their leg between yours while seaching your pockets. They don't get violent, but it is a pain since (especially in the carrer escudellers) they constantly try. Bags are also a wanted item. They usually run by, give two or three tugs, and if the bag doesn't give, they will stroll away as if nothing happened.
    Justin Holley (Apr 99)

    My friend and I stopped to make a phone call at a payphone on the Passeig de Gracia, Barcelona. I put my rucksack down by my foot and put my leg against it, thinking I'd notice if someone tried to take it. In broad daylight, a fellow came along, pretended to use the phone across from me, reached down and nicked my rucksack. We didn't notice it but a fellow at a nearby cafe did. He gave chase, whacked the fellow pretty good and retrieved our bag. Probably not all that advisseable, but heroic nonetheless, and it earned him a free and grateful beer from us.
    Tim Allen, USA (Jan 99)

    Entering Barcelona with a French car with those rad plates, we stopped at the lights when someone jumped out from the car behind us and put something under the tyre. It was flat two blocks later and the offered to help us change it. Warned from reading about a similar scam in Madrid, we stayed in the locked vehicle and waved them off. The police said they haven't seen much of this here, but.
    Michael Mee (Aug 98)

    Avoid Place Colon in Madrid if you are alone and walk round it to go and take the Metro when alighting form the airport shuttle bus. Apparently there are a lot of thieves around that place. When I was there a bloke walked up to me and sprayed some mustard on my coat sleeve. As I put my rucksack down to clean my coat, another bloke came to talk to me as somebody else took my small rucksack and started running away. As I had all my travel documents there, I chased after him and he dropped everything.
    William Chung-How (Mar 98)

    Beware of driving a rental or foreign car in Madrid. We were stopped by a local who pointed out a flat tyre on our car - he then proceeded to help us change it, while his invisible friend helped himself to out unattended bags in the front of the car. Apparently these thieves use an ice pick to puncture your tyre. The Australian Embassy had received 10 reports in the fortnight prior to our report - it had even happened to people who had been warned.

    We had more luck replacing our Visa card than MasterCard. The replacement Mastercard didn't have a magnetic strip and was therefore useless at EFTPOS outlets.
    Ann Williams - Australia (Oct 97)

    Scams & Warnings

    There is a very high risk of being robbed in the Puerta del Sol area of Madrid. I see it almost every day. Beware of gipsy women and arabic looking men. They will open your bag or rucksack from behind, or try the common scam of dropping some stain on you or stepping on you. While one of them tries to help you the others will rob your unattended sacks. Police can not do anything to avoid this, because they can not run undercover operations, and the thieves would be free again in one day, due to Spanish permissive law.
    Jose-Angel (Apr 99)


    For more news, views and the odd bit of gibberish, drop in on the soc.culture.spain and rec.travel.europe newsgroups.

    For detailed up-to-date travel information check out Lonely Planet's Destination Spain.



  • zooming the planetworld shootstories raves literate-yahgetting and giving gossuser updatesflogging scamming toutingjabs bugs potions lotionsunderground webtripweekly travel newshead massages brain waves

    Lonely Planet
    this little piggy takes you all the way...

    so watchit orright?