GERMANY

  • Travel Tips
  • Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes

    Travel Tips

    My boyfriend and I went trekking in the Saxony-Swiss forest. We were lucky to come upon a town called Hoehnstein, in the middle of the forest atop a hill. We were also lucky to find a hostel, which consisted of a huge castle overlooking the forest. The possibilities for trekking are amazing - you can go from anything from half an hour to whole days. The landscape and forests are wonderful but the most amazing site was the Bastei, a collection of huge rocks which are very popular amongst German tourists and rock climbers. Another interesting site is the famous Koenigstein castle across from the river Elbe. The town of Hoehnstein is the best place to stay in as it is a small beautiful town that is not crowded with tourists. The hostel is like a fairytale, though quite expensive.
    Tui Cordemans (Apr 99)

    Chiemsee was the highlight of Bavaria. It was DM 10 for the ferry to the island and DM12 for a tour of the castle on the island.

    The Good Weekend ticket (Shoenes Wochenend) is now only valid for one day (from the 1st April, 1999) but up to five adults.

    The Bavaria ticket is worthwhile. The cost is DM 35 per day and restrictions apply (not before 9 am and not between 4-6 pm). Two people may travel on it using slow trains only. For a trip from say, Munich to Fussen (where there are only slow trains) it's a great choice. It also includes things like metro in Munich and Nuerenburg. This works out cheaper than a rail pass or euro-rail for short trips.
    Traci Arkinstall, Australia (Apr 99)

    A travelling tip for Berlin: the day tickets last 24 hours and are cheaper than the tickets they offer the tourists for 3 days if you only plan on staying inside the city area.
    I would also book in advance for youth hostel rooms as Berlin seems to be continually crowded with budget travellers.
    Deirdre Ni Dhea (Apr 99)

    The "weekend pass" restrictions have changed again in April 1999. Now the pass is again valid for five people of any age, but only on Saturday or on Sunday. You may travel as far as you wish on the S, SE, RB or the RE lines. These are the non-express trains, ie. you can travel on the IC or the ICE trains.
    Carl Friedrich Kreiner (Apr 99)

    I found free internet access in Freiburg at the University Freiburg. The tourist office gave me a list of cyber cafes but did not mention the terminals at the university. There are 10 terminals in the building, KGII, which houses the auditorium. I would not recommend bringing your pack in with you as I saw one guy told to leave. Just try and fit in like one of the students. The terminals are UNIX systems, but Netscape is always up on the monitors. The university is one block south of the tourist information centre on the corner of Rotteckring and Bertold streets.
    Tom Landenberger, USA (Apr 99)

    If you're anywhere near the towns of Cottbus or Frankfurt an der Oder, make an effort to visit Forst. Forst is a small German town that lies on the banks of the Neisse river which separates Germany and Poland. Forst will give you some great insights into post war East Germany under Communist rule.

    Walk along cobbled stone streets, passing bullet riddled buildings, often ghostly in appearance; the smell of burning coal forever present in the air. Walk down to the river via the dull grey high rise apartment blocks erected under the old regime and see the remains of two bridges that were blown up at the end of World War II, one of them a wonderful example of nineteenth century bridge architecture.

    If that's not your cup of tea, then take a walk through the enchanting rose garden or check out the textile museum. Stop to admire the majestic red brick Water Tower, it's quite an imposing figure nestled amongst the chestnut trees in the town's main park, or simply have some coffee and cake in a lovely cafe that overlooks the Neisse river.
    Chris Colaidis, Australia (Mar 99)

    I highly recommend going to the thermal spas in Baden Baden. It's amazing for those sore and tired backpackers. We went to the Caracalla Therme - there is another one next to it for the people who like to bare it all. We paid approximately CAN$12 for two heavenly hours and thought it was well worth the price. We plan to make it our European rest stop from now on.
    Jolyne Daigle & Michelle (Jan 99)

    When taking the trip on the Schwarzwaldbahn from Offenburg to Villingen, why not make a stop in Offenburg itself? Following the information sign from the station, the unexceptional road opens into an attractive central plaza with decorative buildings, fountain and sculpture. Although the person in the information office seemed confounded when I asked if she spoke English, there were pamphlets for the collecting in three languages. They included town plans with information the buildings, timed hikes in the area and suggestions for more distant excursions.

    The town itself is sandwiched between railway lines and the city walls so is easy to wander through and worth the wander - there being artisan shops in the side streets. At Lindenplatz, there are opportunities for refreshment and in the cobbled main square, plenty of seats to people watch. The sandstone grotto is the treasured feature of the town apparently but below this between the battlements and the river, is a strip of municipal garden described as the finest in the Black Forest. It's no great horticulture display area but would doubtless be a cool refuge from summer heat and a pleasant place for a stroll. I think it's worth the stop and certainly a change of mood before or after that great train ride.
    Christine Rush, UK (Oct 98)

    A good tip when you are visiting Leipzig in the former East Germany is to take the train to the city of Halle an der Saale. Leipzig is famous as the place where classical composer Handel was born. However, as soon as he was old enough, he legged it out of the city leaving Halle with an unfair reputation.

    I found it to be a vibrant city with a university and a good nightlife with plenty of things to see and people to meet. As well as the student's nightclub, there are pubs with lots of interesting characters - Germans and ex-pats who will be willing to put you on the right track. Also, check out the Handel House (with tours in English) and the Salt museum (tours only available in German
    Catherine Fox (Oct 98)

    When in Dresden visit the suburbs of Blasewitz and Oberloshwitz, pristine architectural hunting grounds with lots of impressive city mansions of the local manufacturers from the late 19th and 20th century. Same is Strehlen with long streets of undisturbed and partly already renovated Wilhelmistic apartment houses, a view which is uncommon after seeing the partly devastated architecture of the built-up areas. Oberloshwitz also offers a nice view over the Elbe valley and the town from the uphill stations of the rack railroads.

    In Lⁿbeck go to the suburb of old Gothmund. The tiny Centre of the old fishing village still boasts nicely renovated "Fischerkaten" (fishermen houses) the way they used to be a century ago. This area of town is close to the end of bus number 12 ("Normannenweg").

    Due to its position as administrative centre of the former GDR, Potsdam has retained a vivid leftist and punk culture. This now alternative culture is a strong hip-hop and rave society (though there is a very broad program of divers movies (in summer open-air), discos of every kind of alternative rock, independence rock, grunge, dance and cross-over music, cabaret and concerts ) and a few very nice spots to hang out at. A student haunt famous for its beach parties is the Casino, Pappelallee 8-9, in the back of the college's campus. It's also a former Russian military post and while the college has renovated buildings, the Casino has basically a roof and no windows left. A few times a year, tons of sand is carried inside the building for a beach party.
    Marc Lobmann, Germany (Sept 98)

    The German Rail Youth Pass is no longer available. The cheapest ticket available is called a "Eurodomino Youth" and is valid for ten days of travel, which don't have to be used back-to-back (you fill in the date as you use the allotted days).
    David Griffiths (Sept 98)

    There has been a significant change in the "weekend pass" that is offered by Deusche Bahn. It used to allow five adult to travel as far as they wished on the S, SE, RB or the RE lines. These are the non-express trains, ie you can not travel on the IC or the ICE trains. However, this changed in April and now only allows two of those five people to be over 17 years of age. It also allows parent to travel with their own kids until the kids are over 17.

    It should also probably be mentioned that during the off season, many German tourist attractions are closed for reconstruction and renovation. If the traveller is very intent on seeing the display, they should call ahead.

    In the centre of Berlin is the Altes Museum which houses the Pergamon Alter taken from the Acropolis at Pergamon. This amazing ancient Greek monument helped establish Germany's cultural legitimacy in the late nineteenth century. The only country in the world that has a better preserved exhibit of such grand proportion is perhaps Britain.
    Philip A. Wilk, USA (Aug 98)

    The bus from Munich to the Dachau Concentration Camp is number 726 and not 722.
    Garson & Greg (July 98)

    If you're going to Germany between April and May, do stop by Leuchtenburg outside Kahla. It is a medieval castle situated on the very top of a big hill, from which you can almost see the Czech Republic! On the Eve of April 30th,called Walpurgisnacht, there is an awesome party at Leuchtenburg, featuring juggling tricks with torches as well as loud music and lots of contests.The castle itself also has a great hunting museum and is surrounded by beautifully lush Thuringian woodland.
    Taken from the Thorn Tree (June 98)

    A new ferry service between Germany/Lithuania commenced on the 2nd May. For information contact Schneider Reisen, Hamburg.
    Michael Anacker (May 98)

    A quite individual and special place to stay in Germany is on one of the North Sea "Halligen" which are small islands. In winter and autumn when the weather is rough, the Hallig is under water except for the houses which are higher than the sea. One of these Halligen is Langeness. You can get there by ferry starting from Schlnttsiel or Dargebnl. Its about DM20 one way and you get direct train connections from Hamburg via Husum. In Langeness you can stay in different places like bed and breakfast or holiday flats.
    Pia Strubel (May 98)

    The German National Tourist Office has closed its Los Angeles department. The New York City office is : tel. (212) 661-7200 and is open from 9 am to 4 pm , Monday to Friday (toll-free number : (800) 637 1171.
    (Apr 98)

    The two YHA hostels in Leipzig, Germany have both closed and are now located in one new building not too far from town.
    Stewart Nicolson (Apr 98)

    For anyone travelling through Northern Germany, a great way to spend a day is at the flea market. One treasure found is an old coffee grinder, moulded to fit between the knees of the person grinding the morning coffee. For me that coffee grinder serves as a reminder of the bustling cities of Northern Germany with their old stone buildings and cobbled streets.
    Fionnuala Devine (Mar 98)

    Deutche Bahn website became our most reliable form of getting train times:www.bahn.de. We found that many hostels are hooked up to the web. We could also get on computers at universities and the Montreaux Jazz Festival had an Apple computer display that had free access to the web. This saved us from waiting in many long lines and the information was always correct and gave us the best connection. I think all Eurail travllers should be informed of this site. It's in English, German and, I think, French.
    Erik Kamman (Mar 98)

    Munich is famous for its beers and, unfortunately, its high prices. However, just north of the city is a place called the Studentenstadt (student city) a little village specifically made for students. There are fun bars, restaurants and clubs that serve riduculously inexpensive food and drinks. A delicious half litre beer cost less than the equivalent of a dollar. These places are packed with young people every night of the week and are usually open until dawn. Once supposedly needs a student ID card to get in, but I was never asked.
    Michael Kraus - USA (Mar 98)

    Getting around in a car is a bit of a problem but with Berlin being so flat, a bike is the very best way to see it. Be careful sightseeing on a bike as the roads need some attention and so does the traffic - you can easily be distracted. The wind chill factor on a bike especially in winter needs to be respected. Bikes can be bought from the flea market around town for as little as 20DM, and the pet name for them is easty beasties. Check the breaks and watch out for ice.
    M Mckenna - (Jan 98)

    Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes

    Germans love to name their old routes. The Romantic Route, the Castle Route, the Alpine Route. I opted for the Alpine route - about 100 miles in Bavaria with frequent border crossings into Austria. The route begins in Salzburg, Austria and ends around Lindau, Germany. Touring on a Moto Guzzi 500 (motorcycle) was fantastic and borders were no problem. Up in the mountains the border crossings began looking primitive. Sometimes a guy in an undershirt would come out of something resembling a pub and just wave me through.

    In the high mountains I came across what looked like a very primitive border. Three filthy guys in uniform standing in the middle of the road, no building in sight, no pole across the road. I thought it must of been a less used crossing. I stopped the motorcycle and handed them my passport and registration. They began mumbling and pointing towards the woods.

    Turns out they were three garbage men and their truck was stuck in the woods - they needed help pushing it out. They are probably still laughing about how some foreigner mistook their uniform for border police and handed them a passport and registration papers.
    Al Rowley (July 1998)

    While travelling through Europe with friend of mine, we were invited to stay with a couple in Munich. I had forgot my pack on the bus and only remembered as I got into the car. When we got to their place we followed the man into a bedroom. He took a pair of purple satin pyjamas from a drawer and set them on the edge of the bed. As everyone left the room I shut the door behind them. I changed and rejoined them in the kitchen. When I entered my friend Aaron began to laugh 'Nice trousers cuz!' he said in his unmimmickable Maori accent. The man looked at me as though I were an imbecile and his wife laughed harder than Aaron.

    Later that night, I thanked Aaron for explaining to them that I'd forgot my pack. Aaron admitted "I didn't tell them anything." We both looked at each other. He was going to wear the pyjamas! He got them out for himself and I thought they were for me! We also discovered that they hadn't intended for us to sleep in their bedroom that night either! We apologised the next morning over toast and milk.
    Tyler K Lee - USA (Dec 1997)


    For more news, views and the odd bit of gibberish, drop in on the soc.culture.german and rec.travel.europe newsgroups.

    For detailed up-to-date travel information check out Lonely Planet's Destination Germany.


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