Travelers' Reports: Caribbean

CARIBBEAN

  • Moving About
  • Antigua & Barbuda
  • Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao
  • Bahamas
  • Bermuda
  • Dominica
  • Dominican Republic & Haiti
  • Grenada
  • Puerto Rico
  • Saba, Sint Eustatius, Sint Maarten/St Martin, St Bart's
  • St Vincent & the Grenadines
  • Trinidad & Tobago
  • US & British Virgin Islands


    Moving About

    L' Express now runs catamarans almost daily between Martinique, Dominca and Guadeloupe; and 4 times a week from St. Lucia up to Guadaloupe. They also run a service between Antigua and Montserrat.
    Departure tax from Martinique is now 120FF.
    Departure tax from Grenada is 55EC.
    Grenada to Carriacou is now served by Osprey Lines, who run a catamaran twice a day, everyday except Wednesday, for 40EC single or 75 EC return. They also continue up to Petit Martinique.
    Martinique bus service is not too bad-as long as you go from Fort de France out, and then return. Service around the island, though is pretty bad. People are always willing to give lifts on yachts between islands, as long asy ou have an onward ticket from the destination. NB: It is standard procedure when on a yacht for the captain to look after your passport. Also, due to yachting regs they are not allowed to charge any money.
    Matthew Charles - West Indies (May 98)


    Antigua & Barbuda

    The Antiguan government has a policy that US dollars may be converted to EC dollars, but EC dollars may not be converted back to US dollars within Antigua! Hence, travellers should be warned not to exchange an excessive amount of US dollars on their trip, unless they fancy Miami airport's currency exchange rates. Also be warned that departure tax is US$14 per person when leaving Antigua, despite having been reassured by our US travel agent that departure tax was included in the price of our ticket.
    Renu Singh - US (June 98)


    Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao

    Returning to my luxury hotel suite in Aruba after a long night out, I was delighted to find a cople of casino tokens by the bedside, courtesy of the hotel. Must be part of the thoughtful turndown service I thought. The following day, while getting dressed for a formal dinner, I popped the complimentary chips into my suit pocket and headed for the ballroom. The evening went on fine until our entourage adjourned to the casino for a round of poker. Imagine my embarassment when I reached my hands into the pocket for the tokens only to discover a lump of soggy chocolate.
    The tokens, actually good night chocolate snacks provided by the hotel, melted as a result of my body heat. We hear the htoel now still offers the complimentary tokens, but not without a little note explaining that they were edibles. How very thougthful.
    Charles Yap - Singapore (Sept 98)

    I spent 4 days in Curacao this spring, and while the architecture is very pretty, the island is poorer than I had anticipated (much more so than Aruba). It's definitely a place to kick back with a good book, and get some sun, but not much else. Be prepared for the never-ending wind which belies the extremely strong sun, and the tops-optional private beaches. Also, the island has a great public transit system-they use small minivans as buses, and once you get the hang of flagging them down they are super cheap and convenient. We never waited more than 10 minutes for one to show up, and you can get almost anywhere on the island for US$1
    Cindy Wilson (June 98)

    Bonaire:The diving is great, the weather was great (May '97). Food is expensive, as I recall lunch will cost you $20 each, dinner $35. Inexpensive vegetables and fruit can be purchased from the tiny market near the town pier (Kralendijk,) - brought over by boat by SAs from Venezuela. Groceries from supermarket are expensive. Cheapest way to eat is to catch/cook your own fish. We stayed at Buddy Dive Resort, rooms are efficiencies w/kitchenettes and include a rental car (truck) for beach diving ($700/wk dbl). Bonaire is a true desert island, very arid and covered with cactus, over run with burros and goats. Goat stew is a staple of the local cuisine.
    Lester LaForce (June1998)

    Definately go to Bonaire. Its an excellent dive destination. I usually stay at the Sand Dollar, which is a condo development with a good dive shop. The night diving: right off the dock there is outrageous-multiple tarpon!! Beach diving is nice all around the island, but I sort of like Slagbaai in the Park (a must- the snorkeling at playa Funchi is neat!) and the Southern sights past the airport(like Pink Beach). I never thought the wreck dive was worth it. I think Bonaire is not a really budget destination, but you can save money by eating in and buying beer and stuff for drinking rather than going to bars, etc. The happy hour at the Sand Dollar is also good. The Mona Lisa was the prime restaurant last time I was there. A vehicle is a must.
    Dan (June 1998)

    Here are some reasons to go to Aruba or Bonaire: 1) The weather is dry and sunny. Neither island receives much rain so you have a much better chance of being able to enjoy the outdoors than other places in the Caribbean; 2) The ABC islands are outside the hurricane belt. (They both mention that fact in all their tourist brochures.); 3) Facilities for visitors are well-developed; 4) If you like diving or snorkeling, both islands are great places to do it.
    Jeff Van Fleet (August1998)

    I would definately recommend the ABC islands. Aside from the weather being consistently good, the islands are English speaking, clean and generally very safe. You can drink the water! Curacao may have gotten some bad press lately due to drugs; although there are undoubtedly drugs on all the islands (probably less on Bonaire), you will not be hassled and street crime is virtually nonexistent. I prefer Bonaire for relaxation and diving. Washington Park is not to be missed- you can have yourself an ecotourism adventure and be back to your condo or hotel for an good dinner in a couple of hours. But be advised that Bonaire has little if any nightlife and very little shopping. I sort of like the fact that night diving is the prefered evening activity on Bonaire. There is a little casino action, but let me mention the sunset cruise on the Samur (if its still there). A good time. Also, Bonaire lacks any decent sandy beaches. Aruba is to me a gambling scene. Hang out at the pool of your hotel, or maybe the beach in front of the hotel, drink and gamble. Excellent restaurants, more shopping, easier travel connections. I would avoid Charlie's Bar. Otherwise, A good time. I've only visited Curacao on day trips- more shopping/cruise ship oriented. A more urban environment, with casinos, bigger hotels, and some beaches. The diving is supposed to be good. Go to any island and let us know what you think.
    Dan (August 1998)


    Bahamas

    Head out to Paradise Island and see the grounds and the aquarium at Atlantis resort and casino. As far as I know they also offer a dolphin swim program.I believe you need to make advance reservations so call them asap. I had some friends that did this and had a blast. Atlantis resort has a good beach with water sports and stuff like that. Because of the British influence you can find a few places that serve english food and have a pub type atmosphere. Go to the green shutters inn. The cruise ship crews usually hang out at the Picadilly and the Dropoff so you might want to pass them by. The straw market seems to be the place for souveniers but remember most of the locally made stuff is from china (buyer beware)A short walk around town center is fun. There are tons and tons of souvenier shops here also. Get a cab and take and island tour.
    Jordan (June 1998)


    Bermuda

    For excellent Burmudian food and great music (mood reggae) I suggest The Halfway House In Bermuda, which is a restaurant in Flatt's Village. Flatt's is halfway between Hamilton and St. Georges. The service is good, friendly, easy-going. The food is fresh and menu includes some Bermudian favorites (eg. fish cakes, peas, and rice). I had some homemade coconut pie there which was better than I ever imagined. Fresh cocounut. After four visits, the staff were starting to treat me like a regular. The restaurant is across the inlet from the Aquarium and easily accessible with a 10 minute bus ride from Hamilton. This place was recommended to me by a local Bermudian and I was glad for a the tip!
    Marianne Friesen (Mar 98)

    Dominica

    Dominica has thought of an interesting way to get more money from tourists: they made it mandatory to possess an eco-ticket to visit eco-sites. And they check on it too! Currently they are available from selected taxis, tour operators and shops near the sites. They cost US$2, 5 and 10 for a single entry, a day and a week respectively. At most sites they are building an entrance building, in which the tickets will be sold in the future.
    Diederick VanderBurg - Netherlands (July 98)

    I lived in Dominica for three months and loved itI f you are adventurous and not real high maintenance, there is tons to do. Sea Kayaking: You can rent a kayak for US$10-15 an hour I think at a nice shop in Soufriere and paddle around in the Carribean. If it's not too windy you can even stop your boat in a spot called Champagne, and get into the water with your snorkeling gear and see coral and bubbles coming out of the sea floor (from thermal energy). You can't kayak on the Atlantic side because it is too rough, but the Carribean is great for it.

    Hiking: My favorite hike is to Middleham Falls, because it is in a secluded area accessed by a short but rough, muddy, trail, and is huge and beautiful and great for swimming around in or following the river down the valley. It used to be free, but now all the tourist sites cost money to get in. oh well. Boiling Lake is a must see!!!! It is a super beautiful hike and the lake must be one of the natural wonders of the world. I hope you're in shape for this one though, it's up and down both ways- but even if not I say go for it. Remember to take a warm jacket ,too. Even though you are in the tropics it gets cold in the wind and rain up high. If you are really adventurous, you can hike Morne Diablotin, but it can be slippery, no one hikes it because you will get really muddy and cut if you wear shorts because of razor grass or such..
    I lived in Trafalgar,a small village near some waterfalls and near the capital Roseau. There is a really nice, quiet getaway there that has mineral baths and garden, etc. It comes with a great restaurant also. I can't remember the name, but there are only two in Trafalgar and the other place is D'auchamps Gardens.. a beautiful plot with cottages run by an old very friendly english woman.
    One last thing, the Carib Indian Territory is a nice vist and I can even tell you the name of a woman there (and how to call her) about staying in this thatch hut she built for visitors on her land. It is near a tree swing and overlooks the Atlantic Ocean, it is a beautiful stay!!!! And Miranda is very nice. Forget about emerald falls, which is hyped by the tourist industry. It is small, busy, no swimming, out of the way and pathetic compared to the rest of the things you could spend your time seeing on the island. I think that if you are a true lonelyplanet adventurer, you would like to skip emerald falls, and find places like the Layou River- just out of Roseau where you walk through a coconut grove to a river with a natural thermal bathtub on the side in the cliffs.
    joAnne (Sept 1998)

    Dominica: The building of an International Airport has been approved by the government. Estimated date of completion is said to be late 2000 A site pass is now required for entry to all major eco-tourist sites, ei. Middleham falls, Trafalgar Falls, etc. These passes cost US$2.00 and are available from shops, hotels and site offices. Plans are underway to construct a cable car to Dominicas' premier attraction, the boiling way, much to the dismay of Eco-tourists, locals and trail guides. This will of course mao take on the rugged trail, but will create an eyesore up the side of the mountain.
    M. Nicholas - UK (July 98)


    Dominican Republic & Haiti

    I visited Port-Au-Prince, Haiti this past January and stayed at the Oloffson Hotel. I took a short flight from Santo Domingo to Port au Prince. I recommend that you have a taxi driver take you around to show you the sights. Without a driver; it's difficult to get around, unless you know French/Creole. Drivers are usually adept at English and can drive you to remote areas, into the mountains and countryside. You can usually hire drivers for the day, and the price depends on how much you want to haggle.
    I must admit, I was kind of uncomfortable backpacking on my own. I stood out like a sore thumb since I was an Asian female traveling solo. After a while you get used to the stares and the curiosity that your presence invokes. Face it, there aren't many tourists/backpackers that visit Haiti. Most people that visit Haiti are usually from the non-profit organizations such as "Save the Children" etc. Keep in mind that although Haiti is one of the poorest countries in the Western Hemisphere, it is definitely worth a visit, it's a fascinating country to learn about; certainly an eye-opener.
    Cindy (August 1998)

    We found the Dominicans, despite their poverty, to be extremely friendly and helpful. Brits who haven't been any further than Western Europe before may find the Dominican Republic a bit primitive for their tastes. I imagine the reps take a lot of flack from tourists who were expecting something completely different (a Caribbean Costa Del Sol?)

    Without doubt the highlight of the vacation was a two day trip into Haiti. This is not for the faint hearted as the poverty is ten times worse than the DR. We weren't brave enough to go independently, we went on a 'Go-Caribbean' (local tour company) trip in a mini-bus with eight other Europeans. I would advise anyone who is visiting Haiti to take food (fruit, maybe) to distribute rather than dishing money out indiscriminately. Handing out money anywhere near the Citadel and Palace near Cap Haitian may not be very wise.
    It's hard to imagine what every day life must be like for the people of Haiti. Always being short of food and fresh water, watching every one in three children die before their fifth birthday, having sparse medical facilities, a corrupt police force and Government. Is it any wonder that when they come across an affluent looking 'tourist' they want to extract a little money from them either by begging or selling their wares?
    The cheapest way to get to Haiti from UK is to go via the Dominican Republic. There are very cheap flights to the DR at the moment. Best would be to fly to Puerta Plata in the North and cross the border at Dajabon
    Lisa - UK (Sept 1998)

    I lived in P-au-P for four months - Backpacking is not the recommended way to go. Tenting not popular and you could very well get robbed. Best bet is to travel from town to town and stay in the hotels/rooming houses. If you are looking for a first place to start, I would recommend taking a tap-tap from the airport to Petionville and getting a room at the Hotel Kinam. Taxi will cost $US15 but tap-tap (half-ton truck with benches in the back-you can't miss them) about $2,00. Negotiate the price before you get in the car. Hotel is about $50.00 U.S. (might be cheaper) but a hang-out for ex-pats who can likely take you to see whatever you want to see. The ex-pat community is definitely the way to get to see the island.

    Let there be no doubt about it, Haiti is filled with crime. The best way to avoid a bad situation is not to look like a tourist. If you are approached by a robber and they ask you for your money, it's best to give it up. Otherwise, they will shoot you. Backpacks give you away and make you a sure mark.
    You should get some money changed right away, and pay for most things in Haitian dollars. There is a Scotia Bank and a Chemical bank on Delmas which can give you a decent rate of return. Best bet to change large bills there. Bring lots of small bills with you. You will likely not have any problem with the local money changers, but that is risky, and illegal. The ones who come to the hotels and rooming houses are not too bad to deal with, and can cut down the cost of living and travelling.
    You will likely want to visit Jacmel, in the south (great relaxing hotel on the water, cheap) and hike in the hills (day hike only, but you may be able to negotiate living with some of the locals). Be careful about malaria, because most locals don't use mosquito netting. In the hotels, they use chemical mosquito killers.
    Steve Young (Sept 1998)


    Grenada

    If in Grenada, save yourself the hassle of renting a car to see this beautiful island and, instead, for the same price, rent a taxi for the day. Grenadians are very proud of their island-we saw plants, trees and local "sightseeing" that we never would have ben able to see driving.
    Linda Kibak (Feb 98)


    Puerto Rico

    For a quiet secluded Caribbean vacation, I have to recommend the small island of Culebra between the main island of Puerto Rico and St. Thomas. Culebra is rustic and not for everyone but for beautiful beaches, peace and quiet,a nd friendly natives, it is hard to beat. There is no crime on the island and no crowds on the beaches. Amenities are in short supply but the basics are available. Rather than a hotel, call Jim or Cheryl at Pelican Enterprises and they can arrange a private "villa" a rental car/jeep and will greet you at the airport and deliver you to your island paradise. A jeep is a must if you want to explore the beaches outside the (only) town of Dewey (the roads are rather primitive when you leave town.)
    Christi (March 98)


    Saba, Sint Eustatius, Sint Maarten/St Martin, St Bart's

    There is now regular ferry service between St. Martin and Saba. This trip is highly recommended for those who would like a break from the crowds and congestion for a day or so. I recommend more than one day because the day trip only allows for either a hike up Mt. Scenery or snorkeling and then maybe lunch if you hurry. Having to chose between the two ( I chose spectacular Mt. Scenery) has haunted me to this day. Those who chose snorkeling said it was an unusual and unforgettable experience as well. Plus the island itself is like a fairy tale. Definitely the most peaceful place I have ever visited. It's not a place where one needs to feel rushed. Ferry service is via The Edge which runs We/Fri/Sun from Pelican Marina in Simpson Bay. Departure time is 9am and you are back in Simpson Bay by 5pm. The trip takes 70 minutes each way and the fare is $60 per person round trip including taxes and complemintery drinks. The Edge also makes the trip to St. Barths Tue/Thur/Sat. The trip is 45 min each way and costs $50.00 per person round trip.
    Julie Douglas - US (May 98)

    St. Maarten departure tax: none is due if you have been on the island for less than 24 hrs. Proof is to be supplied to the tax counter. What worked for me were a) the date stamp of SXM immigration (for same-day departure). b) my boarding card from my intercontinental flight.
    Diederick VanderBurg - Netherlands (July 98)


    St Kitts & Nevis

    St. Kitts has a new airport: Robert Llewellyn Bradshaw. I don't know if it took the place of the old airport or if it sits in another palce. Anyway, it's just outside Basseterre. It has been built to grow into - there are two numbers for the baggage claim belts, but there is only one belt. Apparently there is some rule that an important airport requires for passengers to have to wait for their luggage: one can stand there without anything happening for ten minutes; with the physical distance to the plane you just came with is 50 meters max (and there is usually only one small plane at a time). The airport features man-friendly taxis, but there is no sign to (nor any sign of) car rental agencies.
    Diederick VanderBurg - Netherlands (July 98)


    St Vincent & the Grenadines

    Bequia was everything that you want out of an island-tours, a local dive ship that offers day trips, small hotels (converted from larger homes, so they're very unassuming) and open air market, stores for shipping and picking up essentials, a hospital (we learned this first-hand)rants. Unfortunately, we were only there for the day but are considering going back for an extended stay. We took one of the island tours-stopped at a turtle sanctuary that raises and releases endangered hawksbill turtles and visited an old whaler' shome. Whaling is still legal there, but must be done by old methods using no modern equipment.
    One of the other islands we visited was Palm Island. Lower in the island chain, it is leased by a man who has turned it into a secluded island paradise. It is one of agroup of islands and is reached by boat. There is asmall gift shop and wonderful restaurant there. The draw to this island is all the private individual cabanas that sit right on the beach. It looks just like apostcard! It is a small island (it takes about an hour to walk the perimeter) but it has all the modern conveniences and other inhabited islands close by for a quicker pace.
    Stephanie B. Arnold (July 98)


    Trinidad & Tobago

    From a backpacker's point of view-this is not the place to travel. It is expensive, often run-down and a resort travel destinantion for rich Americans and British package-holiday makers. No such thing as a campground as we know it, let alone a beautiful white sandy beach as you would imagine. However-there is one saving grace on Tobago: At Pigeon Point Resort (there is no resort-just a beautiful beach and a Deep Sea Fishing Club) the Manager-Eddie, will let you camp there for 5 EC Dollars a night. There are showers and toilets and the most sensational setting. The canteen at the club makes a lunch time meal specail everyday.
    Pettina Hodgson - Australia (Aug 98)

    Crime in Tobago seems to be quite an issue. We spoke to 4 other sets of tourists in our 6 days there; 3 out of the 4 had experienced robberies at first hand. One was a bag stolen from Buccooo beach, the second was a theft at knifepoint in Scarborough at night and the third was from bags ina car. In this latter case ti seems young men are working the road just north of Scarborough. they leap out so the car is forced to stop, hitch a ride and in the case we heard of managed to steal รบ30 from zipped up luggage even thoughthe car had 3 occupants. We don't think the police realise the extent of the crime because only one out of 3 of these groups bothered to tell the police. We had made friends with a policeman in Trinidad before going to Tobago and he assured us there was very little crime!

    Finally, we do feel Costara on the west coast of Tobago needs more of a mention. There are at least 3 places to stop: The Naturalist Beach Resort, Blue Mango and Sea Level Apartments. They are all cheaply priced and adequate, there is a restaurant in town and the locals are really friendly. Teh big bonus about the north of Tobago is that it is crime-free. The south is now VERY touristy.
    Jan & Chris Hopkins - UK (March 98)

    Getting between Trinidad and Tobago is a real pain in the ass these days. Monopolist Air Caribbean is now charging $75 US round trip to non-locals (locals, if they can ever get a seat, pay much less) While we were there, Air Caribben was basically sold out, but walk-ups like us could pay full-fare for a stand-by ticket. We were lucky getting from Trinidad to Tobago and got on the first flight out in the morning (6 am) Returning to Trinidad, however, we had to spend a half day in the airport waiting to get flight out.
    Stephen M. Usery (Feb 98)


    US & British Virgin Islands

    I spent nine months traveling around the British Virgin Islands. On a small atoll called Anegada, I spent my time camped on a beach in Loblolly and Jack Bays. there is so much public land and only 108 inhabit this Island. There are three other camp grounds that are around ten US dollars a night, it's better to make friends with a local and ask them about a great beach.
    Susan Lorette (March 98)

    St. John: For places to stay near the beach, you might try Cinnamon Bay campgrounds or Maho Bay (http://www.maho.org/). Cinnamon is my favorite beach, but all the north shore beaches are nice. You really can't go wrong except that Trunk Bay is pretty touristy and can get fairly crowded. As for things to see, I highly recommend the park service hike down the Reef Bay trail. A park ranger leads you down the trail and tells you about the island's history and environment. You bring a sack lunch and eat at the petroglyphs, then take a boat back to Cruz Bay. It's a great way to learn about the island and see something besides the beaches and shops. Call the park service ahead of time to make reservations though. As a rule, most of the park service programs are worth checking out. As for restaurants, on the slightly expensive side try the Fish Trap or Paradiso in Cruz Bay or Shipwreck Landing in Coral Bay. On the cheaper side, try any of the delis in Cruz Bay or Skinny Legs in Coral Bay.
    Matt (May 98)

    Having been to both the BVI & the US Virgins, I highly recommendthe little island of Jost Van Dyke. There is a man by the name of Ivan Chinnery who runs an incredible, low key, but a bit primitive, campground/restaurant/bar in White Bay. The two weeks I spent there were amazing! Ivan is friendly beyond belief and will go way out of his way to help you (even picking you up in St. Thomas with his boat). All of the yachters who stopped for the day after touring much of the Carribbean said White Bay was one of the most beautiful beaches they found. If you happen to be a Buffet fan (i'm not), Foxy's Bar, immortalized in his songs, is there and a happening place. If interested, drop a line; Ivan Chinnery, White Bay, Jost van Dyke, BVI
    "juniper" (July 1998)



    For more news, views and the odd bit of gibberish, drop in on the soc.culture.caribbean and rec.travel.latin-america newsgroups.


    For detailed up-to-date travel information check out Lonely Planet's Caribbean Destinations


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