If you are travelling to Port Moresby and are crazy about wind surfing, Hula Village is the place to be. It is located one and a half hours from the city and has one of the best wind surfing sites in the Pacific. It also boasts being the host of the Papua New Guinea wind surfing titles. Also, you can stay with the local church guest house and enjoy other village activities. The locals are more Polynesian and real sea-faring people. You will be surprised at the methods they use to catch fish.
Henry Aufa, Japan (May 99)
Black Cat Track (Salamaua to Wau): sections of the Black Cat track between Waipali and Bitoi have become disused since the drought and bushfires which ravaged the area in 1997. Falling trees, kunai grass, thick growth and numerous landslides make the going very difficult and it now takes two days to walk from Waipali to Bitoi (one very long day in the other direction). The various makeshift shelters along the way have also fallen into total disrepair and it is advisable to bring a tent for this section. Other sections of the track are in otherwise good condition and thoroughly enjoyable. The Skin-Diwai trail is apparently now the main artery connecting the two branches of the Iwal, but lacks in the scenery stakes. The local Iwal people are very hospitable and helpful.
Richard Stanaway, Papua New Guinea (Apr 99)
Climbing Mt Kilimanjari us definitely worth it. After the extremely difficult summit attempt and climb down, you feel tremendous pride in yourself. I suggest taking 6 days to acclimatise yourself to the altitude.
Also, bring baby wipes since you won't shower for six days. Bring random food that you like because you will get sick of the food they give you after six days, and bring warm and cool clothes. During the summit attempt, keep your water bottle inside your jacket so it won't freeze. Bring your own water bottles because the water bottles they sell on the Marangu route tend to freeze and then shatter on the summit attempt. Do not even brush your teeth in the water - my friend got sick from it. A water purifier is very helpful. Also a flashlight for going to the bathroom in the middle of the night!
Melissa Olsen, USA (Mar 99)
The only safe travel in Port Moresby is to Sogeri. Here you can visit the Crystal Rapids and Variata National Park. There is also a fantastic market in Sogeri, near the bridge. Many expatriates go there on the weekends as the drive is spectacular, and it is cheap and safe. A general rule is that the further away from Port Moresby you go, the less rascal activity there will be (excluding Kimbe).
About 15km outside Goroka is a BP service station. Directly opposite is a 13ha compound operated by the New Tribes Mission (NTM). These families spread their teachings to the villagers in PNG. If you are prepared to abide by their beliefs (no alcohol, etc.), they have a beautiful guest house on the compound. In return for light domestic duties, the accommodation is about K40 (inexpensive by PNG standards). You can contact them by phone on 732 2060. Bookings are absolutely essential. They will also give you information about the other guesthouses that they run in PNG.
Michael McKeown, PNG (Nov 98)
When it comes to tourism, Papua New Guinea is something special. I heard that not many people were visiting the country but could not believe the incredibly small numbers. Apart from peace corps volunteers which spend their Christmas holiday there, I met exactly two other tourists during my five week stay. Not that I have been to extraordinary places - no! Most of the time I have been in tourist areas! I have been travelling for 20 months right now - visited every continent. But PNG is a once in a lifetime experience. Pretty rough, wild, hard, and dangerous on the one hand, but on the other, absolutely beautiful.
J·rgen Merzaros - Germany (Feb 98)
In general we found the usage of a tent invaluable to our travel and the key to saving money. Although there are no official tent sites, we met people who let us stay in their back gardens or in the middle of villages, and the appearance of a tent is always a source of interest and amusement for a lot of the locals.
Katy Cooke & Guy Yoger - UK & Israel (Jan 98)
New address for Tourist Information Office:
PO Box 1291, Port Moresby, NCD, Papua New Guinea.
Phone: (675) 320 0211; Fax: (675) 320 0221.
Despite being told differently, I had no problems in paying for Air Niugini tickets with a VISA card at different offices. I also got cash advances at every bank I tried.
Christoph Beiglboeck - Austria (Jan 98)
We think that a torch is absolutely essential. Apart from Alotau and Samarai, it seems that even the public electricity generators are turned off at night, so even if you are staying in a guest house you will need a torch. Batteries are readily available in Alotau, and possibly in village trading stores.
Even if a hotel or guest house says it has flyscreens and/or mosquito nets, don't assume that these will be sufficiently intact to keep out flies and mosquitoes. Almost all the flyscreens we saw had holes big enough for much larger insects - and some were ripped to shreds. If (like me) you have a horror of biting beasties with the potential to give you nasty diseases, take your own net everywhere with you.
Anne Burgess - Scotland (Jan 98)
You can now travel from Port Moresby to the New Guinea islands (New Britain and Buka at least, not too sure about New Ireland and Manus) via ship - the MV Sun Kamap. Definitely beats the cut throat, ever-price-escalating national carrier Air Nuigini!
Daphne Tan, Singapore (May 99)
Travel between Papua New Guinea and Irian Jaya: although the road between Vanimo and Jayapura is complete, it is still not open to foreigners. This includes non-Irian Indonesians.
There are no flights any more between Vanimo and Sentani - the only route is by jet boat. The journey takes three hours in either direction. The boat is the MV Narimo Express although the ticket will probably say MV Libby II. The cost is around US$40 single, US$70 return, plus an agent's fee of around US$2.
Melvyn Maltz (Apr 99)
Sandain Air Services no longer exist, but Vanair does. Air Niugini flies to Wewak on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday - same as in the last edition except that the Sunday flight does not go to Jayapura, but stops in Madang on the way instead. Airlink flies Madang-Goroka-Hagin-Wewak-Aitape-Vanimo and return every day that Air Niugini does not come, ie Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday.
The road to Irian Jaya has been open since about December and is proving to be extremely popular with people this side of the border. PMVs and æOrchid BusesÆ make regular trips to the border from Vanimo, but vehicles are still not allowed to cross over either way. On the other side, bemos and two government buses come every day for passengers. A bemo/taxi may cost the equivalent of K40-50 to Jayapura, while the government bus costs only K3-4. No border facilities have yet been established on the PNG side, although foundations for a building have been built - the appropriate officers sit out in the open at the gate to check passports and customs. The trip from Vanimo to the border takes about one hour and another one and a half to Jayapura. The stretch between Vanimo and the border is an attractive one and frequently used, especially for Jayapura, and it will become increasingly popular.
Alan McNeil, Papua New Guinea (Feb 99)
There is no longer a flight from Vanimo in PNG to Jayapura, but there is a boat that goes twice a week if there are enough passengers. It's the Narimo Express, costs K100 round-trip, plus K30 departure tax, and info and tickets are available via the Vanimo Beach Hotel (also called the Narimo Hotel). In Jayapura, the agent is Jaap van der Werf; tel: (967) 531 449; Jalan Raya Abepura 32, Entrop Kelapa 11; PO Box 1719, Jayapura. He speaks excellent English and Indonesian, and is quite helpful. You turn your passport over to him upon departure and he straightens everything out. On the PNG side, you give your passport to the Indonesian embassy in Vanimo along with a visa application, K20, and two photos. The boat staff pick it up and have it waiting the morning of departure. In Jayapura, you have to pay a Rp10,000 entry fee and another Rp10,000 exit fee.
Aaron & Vanessa Petty, Papua New Guinea (Dec 98)
Air New Guinea have stopped their flights (as has everyone) to Jayapura. The road route is open only to locals living close to the border and VIPs. Banana boats to Jayapura are stictly for Papuans - no passport holders allowed. So the only transport at present is the 'Narimo Express' ( a boat holding around 20 passengers max) which departs Vanimo on Wednesdays and Fridays returning Thursdays and Mondays. One way is K60, K100 return. The Vanimo Beach Hotel is shortly going to be starting boat connections to Jayapura in competition with the Narimo Express with which it has no connection. This boat is bigger and faster and those staying at their gaff will get discounted tickets.
Simon de Trey, UK (Dec 98)
Air Nuigini and Flight West have recently announced direct flights to Lae. This is probably your best option as Lae is the gateway to the islands and the highlands. Located 40km from Lae city on the Goroka/Madang Rd, the airport at Lae (Nadzab) is a bit antiquated, but there are plenty of buses to take you to Lae once the plane (eventually) arrives. The Balus bus costs K15 one way and is used by the locals; the Morobe Tours bus cost K48, and is used by expatriates (phone number: 472 3647). The good thing about Lae is that road travel in the area is practical, since airfares in PNG are very expensive.
I recently drove from Lae to Goroka - it took about four hours. In a PMV bus it costs K10 one way and takes a little longer. The buses are mostly Toyota 15 seaters or three tonne trucks with timber seats and canopies - 15 seaters are hotter but they have proper seats. You can pick one up from the Lae markers but be early as they like to leave early in order to make the return trip before dark. PMVs are easy to identify as they have blue number plates with "P" prefixes. The climb from sea level up to 5000ft through the Kassam Pass is spectacular; the trip is well worth it for these scenes alone.
The drive from Lae to Madang has improved greatly in the last few months. The total tip is only about 250km: the first 200km are in good condition; the last 50km are unsealed - during the wet season it is almost impassable. A nearby construction company have used their grader to improve the surface so it is a lot better than it used to be. However, this changes on a weekly basis. A PMV ride will take between 5-8 hours and cost K20 one way. You can catch one at the Lae markets with route3/100 market on it. The buses are almost exclusively 15 seaters. If the vehicle becomes bogged in the mire, the passengers are expected to get out and push! Both these rides are relatively safe by PNG standards. Venturing any further in to the highlands is a bit of a lottery. In the last couple of months tribal fighting has escalated around Tari and Wabag (again). It really is safer to fly into Mt Hagen from Goroka. If you have to go to Hosknis (Kimbe) and Rabaul, the best way is via Airlink (phone number: 472 0771) as their planes start and finish in Lae.
Direct flights to Jayapura in Irian Jaya have been cancelled but if you fly to Vanimo you can get Vissers Enterprises (phone number: 857 1366/1009) to drive you to the border by 4WD (about K100) where you then catch a boat for the 40 minute trip to Jayapura direct. The flight to Vanimo will take you over Aitape, the region recently hit by the Tsunami.
Michael McKeown, PNG (Nov 98)
Travelling from Ambunti: make sure that you have plenty of time to get out of Ambunti. Even if you are able to make a booking - and this has to be done through the office at Wewak or your destination site - you may be bumped off the plane if someone more 'important' needs to travel that day. The weather can be another inhibiting factor. But with patience, leaving Ambunti should be possible if not by plane, then by dugout canoes/road. Travelling to Ambunti is quite easy. Mission Aviation Fellowship has flights departing Wewak every weekday except Wednesday (Phone: 545 1477).
Mette Kirk, Australia (Aug 98)
Jackson's airport in Port Moresby opened new international and domestic terminals in April. Expats who frequent the PNG airport say it is a vast improvement on the old terminals. It has air-conditioning and service desks in smart pastel tones. Smoking and chewing betelnut is not allowed. The two terminals are separated by an outdoor walk of a hundred metres. Luggage can be checked through to connecting domestic flights from the international terminal. However be warned, a connection of not less than two hours is recommended, as movement through the International Arrivals Hall is slow.
At Passport Control, one queue is for those without visas. Three queues take everyone else. If speed through the queue is your aim, there seems to be no advantage in having a visa before arrival. All queues move slowly. It can take an hour to process the passports of visa holders and nationals from one flight. Non visa holders take a similar time. For non visa holders, the process can be simple. Produce a valid passport, a ticket showing you will depart from PNG in less than sixty days, a reason for coming, eg, tourism or visiting relatives, and 25 kina.
The trick is to produce the 25 kina. No other currency is accepted. If one does not have PNG cash on arrival, then Passport Control faces a dilemma. The lack of currency exchange facilities in the Arrivals Hall is perhaps a design error in the new terminal. So one's passport is retained, while one walks past baggage collection and through customs into the Departure Lounge to Currency Exchange. Australian cash can be exchanged for kina and the rate is the same as a bank. Changing travellers' cheques without a passport may be another matter.
One then completes the reverse route to Passport Control and the visa is issued. There is only one luggage carousel so finding luggage should not be difficult. The terminal usually handles only one plane at a time.
Suzanne L Dooley (Aug 98)
There are no more Air Niugini flights between New Guinea and Indonesia. At the moment there only seems to be a ferry.
Thomas Rau & Andrea Rogge - Germany (Jul 98)
Domestic flight fares on all carriers in PNG have been augmented 10% in general, effective 2 March 1998. This is due to the devaluation of the Papua New Guinean Kina.
Peter Steiner - USA (Jun 98)
How to get to the middle to upper Sepik River: flight with MAF (Missionary Airlines) from Wewak to Ambunti. No fixed schedule although there is normally one flight per day. There is a limit as to how much weight you can take on the plane; they even weigh you when you get on the plane.
John & Christine Beasley - New Zealand (Mar 98)
Air Niugini has opened a new route to Osaka once a week which will be pleasant for the Japanese tour groups.
Mt Hagen is the second airport in PNG with international services. You can fly there from Cairns a few times a week. The newly built airport at Gurney/Alotau has an international departure terminal, so there might be flights to Australia in the near future.
Since Talair has suspended operations, MBA is becoming the most important domestic carrier and flies to over 60 destinations regularly. PO Box 170, Boroko. Phone: (675) 325 2011.
Airlink is now based in Madang and serves the mainland.
Air Niugini has purchased two DH8 very modern turboprops for their services to Tark, Kundiawa and Popndetta. You can get a 'Visit PNG' airpass: four flights in one month for US$299. It must be booked outside PNG. The only problem is that you are meant to state your exact route and dates of your flights, or incur a fine for altering this (although I changed a lot of routes and dates and never paid a fine). Flights get fully booked - it's wise to be at the airport well before check-in time, or you may find your seat taken by someone else.
Lutheran Shipping has increased the frequency of its journeys on the Madang to Wewak route.
Goroka Air Service specialises in services throughout the highlands. PO Box 882, Goroka.
Christoph Beiglboeck - Austria (Jan 98)
From Watam there are two ways to go to the Sepik. The first is by the sea to the mouth and the second is via the Watam lagoon connected to a really beautiful short cut tributary full of rainforest and sago trees. Because it is a quicker route, local buai traders use this way so there is quite frequent travel. From Watam to Angoram it is K15 per person passenger fee. We found the cheapest way to travel on the Sepik was to go as a passenger. It sometimes takes a little time and negotiation but it is definitely worth it. It is also a good opportunity to meet the local people and stay in the villages. In our travelling we didn't pay for any accommodation because of the friendly locals and because we had or trusty tents!
From Port Moresby we decided to take the shortest flight route to Popndetta. Air Nuigini gives 25% discounts for internal flights for students and 20% if you hold an international ticket.
The Bundi/Brahmin Highway to Madang has been reconstructed and there are relatively frequent trucks. It is well worth doing as the drive is stunning. It is definitely for 4WDs and it will cost K16. In the wet season the road would be impassable. There is a mine that is going to be opened soon near Pandambai and this will follow a different route to Madang and will probably be completed some time next year. The missionary at Pandambai has now left to Bundi but you can still stay in the village with the locals.
Katy Cooke & Guy Yoger - UK & Israel (Jan 1998)
Milne Bay Air is now the only second/third level airline operating into the province, apart from Islands Nationair which (I understand) flies into Kiriwina from Port Moresby. We flew six times with MBA (also known locally as Coconut Airlines!) and one of these flights actually operated on time - more or less.
Anne Burgess - Scotland (Jan 98)
The only safe travel in Port Moresby is to Sogeri. A general rule is that the further away from Port Moresby you go, the less rascal activity there will be (excluding Kimbe). Venturing any further in to the highlands than Madang and Goroka is a bit of a lottery. In the last couple of months tribal fighting has escalated around Tari and Wabag (again).
Michael McKeown, PNG (Nov 98)
PNG is certainly unsafe for a single woman travelling alone. I think the danger cannot be overemphasised. There are single women who have had dreadful experiences at the hands of local men. No-one is caught or prosecuted and the women do not wish to talk about their experiences. Even single males are attacked. A man who was to meet me at the airport had recently been 'jumped' in his car by two men with pistols. His car was stolen and he was left to fend for himself.
Suzanne L Dooley (Aug 98)
The hot springs at Deidei were a highlight. However, I would suggest that intending visitors hire a guide (we paid K5) from the village because: (a) the villagers get upset at people going there without permission; and (b) the place is apparently quite dangerous. It seems that the hot water holes and mud pools are not permanent, but shift around regularly, and it is not unknown for people to fall through the thin rock crust into the hot water below. Our guide got quite agitated if any of us tried to stray from the path he showed us.
Anne Burgess - Scotland (Jan 98)
Last year's safety situation was a bit more tense for a couple of different reasons: the revolt in the army [over the mercenaries], and the drought which hit PNG very badly, driving a lot of people into crowded towns.
Port Moresby is still a hot spot for troubles and I recommend very strongly to think twice about spending a lot of time there.
Madang, which used to be a bit more peaceful than other towns, got its fair share of troubles.
The tensions between the Madang people and the people from the Sepik (who live on a settlement between the town and the airport), grew stronger and stronger due to some violent incidents in which two people were killed.
The Highlands, most affected by the drought, had troubles. When I wanted to travel to Tari by PMV I was strongly advised not to because the risk of a hold up was so high. Since the whole Enga Province seemed to be too dangerous to travel to in late 1997, I recommend to ask around before you go there.
The Lae-Goroka route seems to be a bit safer now and also on the Dallo Pass you are less likely to be held up compared to previous years. This is the consequence of increased police patrols, looking for rascals, and also for alcohol smugglers.
The worst trouble-spot, however, was the Sepik region. In Spring, a cruise ship was held up and the passengers robbed. An Italian tourist was stabbed in Timbunke, but the locals would not turn the attacker over to the police. However, the situation between locals and tourists might improve because a lot of people and politicians know the region depends on tourism.
Until then, inform yourself about the safety situation before you travel to Middle or Upper Sepik.
During my stay in PNG I never had any troubles and nearly everyone was friendly and helpful. You are unlikely to face problems if you are a bit cautious and use your brains and listen to what local people say, but don't be paranoid and believe the horror stories some of the expats like to tell a recently arrived tourist. Spend some days bushwalking off the main routes and you will find some hospitality you'll never forget.
Christoph Beiglboeck - Austria (Jan 98)
I have been to paradise and back. I chose to visit the Carteret Group Islands, off Buka just because I couldn't find any information about it. I made my way there by chartering a boat in Buka and after four hours in open sea arrived on the main island, Han.
It is so unspoiled that it is rare. I have been around but was still surprised. There's no concept of money, nothing to buy really and nothing to sell. No one is rich so no one is poor. And there's no ambition - how fortunate for them. Having no energy other than firewood and wind, they live in the present. Bread fruit and fish are consumed immediately since the heat will spoil them, so if one has two fish or a couple of ripe bread fruit, they just share with their neighbour.
Hospitality comes to them naturally - they literally cried when I left. Normally I would keep such a place a secret, as unspoiled places are better left untouched. However, it is the islanders who would like to be visited. A small flow of tourists can contribute to their well being since there's no way for them to generate any money. They do need money as their kids need clothing and notebooks for school, their kitchens need utensils and they need medicine.
Thomas Nima, who took such good care of me, has a hut to let on the pristine Huene Island. A simple hut with an incredible surrounding of coconut palms, hibiscus and bougainvillea. He will take care of visitors, take them out to fish and spear fish and visit the communities on the other islands. A visitor will have a life changing experience - simplicity, expanding dimension of time, and direct connection to the elements like the sea, sand, wood, fire and starry nights.
A cost that I suggested to Thomas was 40 kina a day per person including all meals (they are great cooks) and any desired activity. It's also a great place just to relax. There's no tension, no war, no crime, no radio - only quiet and the waves crashing against the atoll.
Getting there: in Buka contact Father Boniface at the Hahela Mission, just five minutes from Buka's airport. Boniface will arrange transportation (30 kina on the government boat for an eight hour cruise, or 250 kina and four hours if you charter your own boat). Father Boniface will also communicate by radio to Han and get the message to Thomas who would await the visitor and take good care of them. I recommend you arrive alone or in a group of three to four friends; a big party will require special arrangement. Father Boniface can also be contacted c/o Sister Lorraine in Buka; tel/fax 983 9983.
Yossi Ghinsberg (Jan 99)
One of the most rewarding experiences I have had travelling was spending three days on the Trobriand Islands. Caught a Milne Bay Airlines flight from Port Moresby and accommodation was also organised through MBA. The 'hotel' was basic but very comfortable (had to share my toilet with two green tree frogs, but we got used to each other) and the staff were very friendly and helpful. They would round someone up from the nearby villages to walk with us anywhere, so we got to meet lots of locals and visit their homes/villages without feeling we were intruding. They also drove us around the island wherever we wanted to go - that is a must have on the Trobriands as it's very difficult to get around much of the island without transport. You can walk to some spots, but not all.
Lisa Burman, Australia (Aug 98)
The Morobe show is on the 1st and 2nd of November and was excellent. It had about 40 different sing-sing groups and numerous other side stalls. Tickets are K3, and the second day is definitely the best day as it's when the sing-sings take place. The main event is in the showground but to see them warming up, putting on their make-up, etc, it is best to see them outside the arena. From the main gate it isn't far to walk to where they all congregate, for free photo opportunities (to take your camera inside the arena it is K50!), and a chance to talk with the individual groups. It is also better to buy tickets beforehand so you don't have to queue for hours to get in.
Katy Cooke & Guy Yoger - UK & Israel (Jan 98)
PAPUA NEW GUINEA
