ZIMBABWE

Country Updates

A note to US travellers: since the beginning of 1999, you must now pay a US$35 visa fee to enter the country. Almost everybody was caught off guard by this fee. Make sure you carry US$ currency (US$35 to get in and a US$20 exit fee).
Rob Edmiston, USA (Apr 99)

Multiple entry visas are only available from the Immigration Headquarters in Harare, and cannot be obtained beforehand from any embassy. This means that anybody wishing to travel extensively across the Zimbabwean borders will have to pay US$25 for a single entry and another US$55 for a multiple entry, and spend one day in Harare to complete the procedure. It normally takes seven working days to process applications, but staff at the Headquarters are generally helpful, as long as you pay the visa fee. We insisted that it was urgent, were kept waiting 15 minutes and received our visas without any problem. Just ask for the person in charge and be friendly.

A notable exception is made for British citizens who can still travel freely across all borders. A wise thing to do would be to check with the embassy in your country of origin before leaving, and plan to spend sufficient time in Harare to get your multiple-entry visa.

If you are entering Zimbabwe by road, you can try the following trick: ask the Immigration officers at the border posts to apply for a multiple entry visa, and then be allowed to enter Zimbabwe only with the receipt of the multiple entry visa, to go straight to the Headquarters and have it processed. This worked for us at the Victoria Falls border and saved us an extra US$25 per head. It is doubtful, however, that it would work at the airport.

With or without a visa, it is increasingly advisable to hide all valuables when crossing a road border post to or from Zimbabwe. When activity is low - early morning or late afternoon - isolated tourists can become targeted for watches, jewels, shoes, etc by Immigration and Customs officers. I nearly lost my watch to an overzealous Immigrations officer at the Victoria Falls border post. Keep hold of your passport as soon as your stamping job is done and politely avoid "friendly" conversations. Try not to arrive alone at the post. Should anything happen, some soft talk should do the trick. Remain friendly and say things like: "it's a present from my mother, I'm sorry I cannot give it to you," etc. It works generally. Also, keep all the receipts you get when you pay for your visas separate from your passport. Multiple entry visas are stamped on flying sheets, which makes them very easy to lose or confiscate.
Francois Chassing (Feb 99)

The Great Zimbabwe Ruins: we met a lot of other travellers who did not take a guide and weren't particularly impressed with the ruins. We took a guide - they are all fully-trained locals - and it was absolutely fascinating; the whole history of the place, and Africa in general, was brought to life. I would highly recommend paying the small amount extra for a guide, as it really made a difference.
Joanna Hampton & Andrew Mitchell, UK (Dec 98)

The hikes around Chimanimani are epic. The Hadange River Track is awesome, difficult and dangerous; it should be avoided when wet, as it is very slippery. The firebreak running south from the Hadange track to Mutekeswane should not be taken as a short cut; going down towards Tessa's pool and then back along the road is quicker and less strenous.
Stefan Grosse, South Africa (Dec 98)

There is an internet cafΘ located in the Bulawayo library. It is pretty expensive, but the money does go to a good cause: keeping the library open. It is cheaper than the one at Victoria Falls.
Ola Jornmark, Sweden (Dec 98)

American Express in Mutare is now located at the 1st Street/Aerodrome; telephone: 263 020 6417/2. The American Express in Harare is now at the Eastgate Building between 2nd and 3rd streets, off Jason Mayo.
Sarah Hilton, UK (Dec 98)

The Victoria Falls Hotel has e-mail facilities. Be wary of changing money here, though, as they do charge a hefty commission (6%).
Arlinde Vletter, The Netherlands (Nov 98)

The low value of the Zimbabwean dollar was excellent when we were in Zimbabwe. However, upon entry into Botswana I found that I had a few hundred left over. The banks would not exchange it for me and told me that I couldn't spend it; basically I was stuck with it. Fortunately I met a couple who were going into Zimbabwe from Maun so I sold them my money. Moral of the story: never have too much cash when leaving a country and going to a neighbouring one, as you will not necessarily be able to spend or exchange it.

An excellent bird book is SASOL - Birds of Southern Africa (Sinclair, Hockey and Tarboton). My copy is dirty and worn from never being out of my hands!

All the road names have changed in Harare and they have put in a massive one-way system in order to reduce congestion. It is best just to feel your way around; even the locals are still having trouble understanding the new system!

Kariba Dam was worth the detour. It had a very good display board which explained the workings of the place. The Tourist Information Point up on the hill had a lovely display of the history of the dam with old newspaper cuttings of Rupert Fothergill in action moving rhinos and the like.

The Pungwe Gorge was just stunning. There is a path which takes you a little way down the hill for a better view of the falls, but mind you don't as you descend!

At Malindidzimu the lizards abound on the Cecil Rhodes rocky hilltop, but there doesn't seem to be a park attendant there any more. Elephant Shrew live under the large boulders - they will come out to see what is going on if you are very still.
Amy Sumner, UK (Oct 98)

Hwange: Make sure your lodge knows you are arriving by plane. There are no taxis at Hwange airport; the only available transport is provided by the lodges. Hitching a lift is very difficult.

Victoria Falls: Elephants now visit the centre in broad daylight.

Masvingo: You should book in advance as decent accommodation is scarce. If travelling to Masvingo from Chimanimani do not wait for the direct bus which is unreliable and can arrive quite late; take an earlier bus and change onto one of the faster buses at Wengezi Junction.

The Harare-Kariba-Hwange-Victoria Falls air route is inexpensive but unreliable. Only one plane flies this (and the return) route, and if it is delayed anywhere along the journey it is delayed for the rest of the route. It is not uncommon for the plane to be delayed to the extent that it cannot land at either Hwange or Kariba. Both these airports close at 6pm, and this does not appear to be flexible due to a lack of lights. If this happens you should spend the night in Harare - negotiate a night at a top hotel - rather than Victoria Falls as the same plane flies the same route the next day starting in Harare.
Steve Mitchell, UK (Oct 98)

Zimbabwe is a beautiful, vibrant country with an extreme variety of terrain. Its excellent road and public transportation network makes it easy for the independent traveller to get around. Whenever possible, use a major credit card to pay for services such as safaris, tours, air fares and hotel accommodation. This will avoid the 15% government tourist tax that is imposed on payment made by cash or traveller's cheques. Also, there are almost 50 Barclays Bank ATMs (that accept the VISA card) conveniently located in major cities. When compared to the foreign exchange bureaus, the ATMs save queue time and give money at a more favourable wholesale rate of exchange.
Barbara A Kelly & David S Miller, USA (Sep 98)

For all the activities around Victoria Falls, you have to pay in foreign currency. Bring traveller's cheques or a credit card because if you pay in cash, you will be charged a 17% levy.
Lynn Anat & Yossi Hayated, Israel (Aug 98)

Receiving faxes at post offices is entirely free. If the fax for you reads your address in Zimbabwe, they'll let you know immediately so you can come and collect it. If it doesn't, just go to the post office and ask if there are any faxes for you.
Floris van Eijk, Netherlands (Jun 98)

Sending souvenirs (wood carvings, etc) from Harare: rather than send by the regular postal service (the price of which increased 100% overnight in May this year), it may be better to use 'Transfreight'. Address: 1 Union Avenue, Harare. Phone: 773 817; fax: 773 816. Transfreight can send any weight of goods by sea to any major city in the world. The beauty is they charge per crate container, so it doesn't matter if that container has 5kg in it or 500kg - it will cost the same.
Paul Rich & Kerry Tiley - UK (Jun 98)

Prices in Zimbabwe are increasing at a frightening rate.
Barry & Rowena Simpson - Zimbabwe (May 98)

Zambesi National Park: if you want to camp there you must check in before 5pm. Otherwise the lodge is open.
Marco Biagiono - Holland (Nov 97)

Worth a mention is Chenjerai Hove who is very famous in Zimbabwe. He is Zimbabwean but writes in English. The topics he covers include Zimbabwe, ist people, famine, etc. I read Shebeen Tales before I went to Zimbabwe and got a really good impression of what the country and ist people must be like. Another famous book is Bones. To get to know Harare, there is another great book worth reading written by Lovemore Zinyama, Daniel Tevera and Sioux Cumming (all professors at the Department of Geography at ZU). Title: Harare -The Growth and Problems of the City.
Corinna Peters & Thorsten Borns - Germany (Oct 97)

You can make collect calls overseas from card phones without a card. Dial 966 for an operator who will help.
Lea - Denmark (Sep 97)

Travellers are now allowed to enter Mozambique from Zimbabwe with a rented car; what you need (beside a Mozambican visa and a credit card) is only an export permit for the car, easily arranged (free and in a few hours) by the renting company. In Harare, it is better to avoid the usual big companies (more expensive) and shop around for better fares.

Fuel in Zimbabwe is very cheap (0.25 US$ per litre), but more expensive in Mozambique (0.75 $/litre). Petrol stations in Mozambique can now be found in the towns and near the junctions, so you don't need to carry fuel with you anymore, just remember to fill the tank every time you find a station.
Ilario Lagasi, Italy (Dec 98)

The drive from Kariba to Matusadona may seem short on the map, but it is really strenuous. It took us eight hours, but was well worth the discomfort, as it was by far the most scenic reserve.
Stefan Grosse, South Africa (Dec 98)

On leaving Zimbabwe, you are required to pay US$20 airport tax. This does not apply if you are a transit passenger.
Arlinde Vletter, The Netherlands (Nov 98)

The "Zambezi Express" appears little known in the town of Victoria Falls. Neither locals nor staff at the Fairmont Hotel appear to know of its existence. My route out of Victoria Falls (headed for Windhoek) involved minibus to the border town followed by a seven km walk to the border, river crossing in dug-out canoe and another walk of several kilometres to the Namibian immigration post. Luckily I didn't do too much of the walking because locals offered lifts in the rear of their pickup trucks.

After arriving at the Namibian border town, I was able to buy cash (difficult to do in Zimbabwe and the cause of much stress to me) and catch a bus to Windhoek. The bus was clean and driven safely

While waiting at a gas station to refuel the bus, I was surprised to see a minibus heading in the direction of Victoria Falls. On the side of the bus was written "Zambezi Express"
Macartney Auld, Australia (Sept 98)

There is no longer a Limpopo (Mozambique) train running to Harare.
Hannah Lewis, UK (Aug 98)

One of the best things about Zimbabwean travel is the standard of National Railways Zimbabwe. We made it a policy to always take the luxury of first class and almost always had the whole four person berth to ourselves. It's like riding in something from 1930s Rhodesia, down to the faded photos, glossy woodwork and Rhodesian Railways gold lettering. It's a cheap, comfortable and atmospheric way to travel, and saves on accommodation costs. It costs around US$6-7 a berth in first class.
We prided ourselves on 'discovering' a little-used passenger line from Bulawayo to Chiredzi via Triangle. It's slow because it's a mixed passenger/freight train, so allow 14 hours. We're not train nuts but really did find these railways a treat.
Sean Wayman & Cameron Lindsay, Australia (Aug 98)

Vumba is a great place to relax. There is an infrequent bus going from Mutare to Leopard Rock that you can take to reach Vumba. But it can be more convenient to hire something. We went to all those 404s and 504s waiting at F Avenue. The first driver asked Z$120, the second asked the same, the third driver was only minding the car, the fourth asked Z$500 (and admitted he was not serious) and the fifth driver owned a small green car kept together with tape. He asked Z$80. We crammed the five of us in there and were amazed at the speeds we reached. But a speed-prayer guarded us:
80km/h: God will take care of you
100km/h: Guide me, o thou great Lord
120km/h: This world is not my home
160km/hr: Lord I'm coming home
Over 180km/h: Precious memories
Floris van Eijk, Netherlands (Jun 98)

The train service between Johannesburg and Harare doesn't exist any more. The service was stopped on 24 April 1998.
Holger Schulze (Jun 98)

Balkan Airways no longer flies into Harare. They have not done this trip since October 1997.
Victor Fiorillo (Jun 98)

No hire company here (northern province of South Africa), will rent you a car for cross border use in Zimbabwe except Avis. However, they do levy an additional R120 insurance (minimum five days payable) per day. And they inform you that if the car breaks down or if you have an accident, "you are on your own". Rates here usually include 200km a day free and then the rate is approximately R1.20 a km. So from here (Pietersburg) to Victoria Falls is approximately 2000km return. The costs add up. Instead, I called the Avis service centre in the UK (my home country), and could hire a car at good rates from there and pick it up here and pay for it in SA rands (good for us Brits since the pound is so strong!). BUT with unlimited km. A handy tip I think.
Dr M S Khan - UK (Mar 98)

The road from Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) to Kalambeza (Botswana) to Katima Mulilo (Namibia) is now just about all completely tarred (and in great condition!). The only unsealed bit is from the Nam border to Katima Mulilo.
Sean Willis (Mar 98)

The train to Bulawayo (Zimbabwe - from Botswana) is very slow. You can also catch a mini-van to the Zimbabwean border from the Francistown 'bus terminal' for about 5 Pula (about US$1.50). Cash-strapped mini-van drivers will be waiting on the other side of the customs border to shoehorn you into one of their vans to Bulaweyo for about the same price. For the reverse trip, catch a Kombi in town on Fort Street between 10th and 11th to Bellevue. Mini-vans, and the larger, slower buses leave from the Shell station parking lot for the Botswana border. Those with any significant packs/luggage will want to try the larger bus!
Joseph Copeland (Mar 98)

We travelled with Air Zimbabwe internally but found it very difficult to find out information about the flights. The local office within Harare airport gave us incorrect information about flight timings on several occasions so it is best not to take what they say at face value - everything should be checked and rechecked. Also, the inflight booklet (SkyHost) gave the departure times of all internal routings. Again, some of these times were incorrect (even though the inflight magazine had only been produced that month!)
For the richer client, there is the chance of reliving the romance of a bygone era by taking a trip on the Vic Falls Safari Express; a 1922 class 10 steam loco with 1900 first class coach and dining car. Options are: Royal Tea Run - departs 10am and pauses on Victoria Falls bridge for champagne and a range of teas and snacks. Returns 1.30pm; Moonlight dinner party departing at 6.30pm and returning at 9.30pm; and Bridge Run - sip champagne on the bridge in the late afternoon. These can be booked via Victoria Falls Safari Express.
Phone: 727 366/7. Email: fallsexp@mail.pci.co.zw
Karen & Donncha Ryder (Feb 98)

Emergency taxis are plentiful in Harare and Bulaweyo. It should be noted, however, that the government is planning to outlaw the ETs because they are dangerous and undignified according to the Ministry of Transport. They may be phased out in 1998 and replaced by a new fleet of 500 Fiat minibuses to be imported from Italy. We would also like to point out that since LP last visited, the buses between major towns have become far more plentiful. For example, whereas LP states there is one bus a day between Mutare and Masvingo leaving early, we found there were plenty to choose from; our custom was fought over by two rival buses at 8am on a Sunday morning.
David Seymour-Smith (Feb 98)

Lonely Planet's Africa - the South, page 232, column 2: The stagecoach bus to Harare runs daily except Friday. It leaves the Chileka Bus Station at 7am. The day I used it, we did not arrive in Harare until 9pm largely due to inordinate delays on the Zimbabwean side of the border - these are common.
R W Le Sueur - UK (Feb 98)

We went to Tengenenge, the sculptor village north of Harare. It is not as hard to get there as it seems in most travel guides. There is a bus going to Tengenenge. It leaves Tengenenge early in the morning and returns in the afternoon. Its destination is Mwurvi. Another way to get there is to call the community and ask if any of them are going to Harare and if you can get a lift back. They go into Harare fairly often, at least two or three times a week. That is how we got back and forth.
Magnus Eriksen - Norway (Feb 98)

We intended to travel from Victoria Falls to Namibia by bus, but the Harare-Windhoek bus no longer seems to exist. The only alternative is the "Namoie Shuttle", an air-conditioned minibus carrying a maximum of 7 passengers. It costs an incredible US$155 ($102 to Grootfontein, $77 to Rundu), but this includes overnight food and accommodation plus a boat trip in the Caprivi Strip. Faced with this outlay or a few days hitching in 40 degree C temperatures, we found it more convenient (and cheaper) to travel with an overland truck that had just finished a Cape Town to Vic Falls tour and was on its way back to Cape Town. This cost US$50 for a 2500km journey.
David Seymour-Smith & Samantha Williamson - UK (Nov 97)

The flight from Kariba to Hwange and Victoria Falls departs at 10.15am and costs ZIM$559. The flight is cheaper than the ferry and it's no problem to carry a bike. There is no extra charge.
Bernhard Niebaum - Austria (Oct 97)

Hiring a car is really expensive, as you (LP) said. It costs at least 100DM per day. It is sometimes cheaper to go by plane!
Corinna Peters & Thorsten Borns - Germany (Oct 97)

Khami Ruins: don't leave anything in the vehicle as thieves are common here.
Francois Chassing (Feb 99)

When visiting the Great Zimbabwe ruins, it is a good idea to protect your legs, as there are plenty of ticks around.
Marten Hasselbom, Sweden (Dec 98)

Beware of being mugged at Victoria Falls; it is getting a bit dodgy at night.
Dan Stothart (Nov 98)

We met a Belgian woman who had been robbed on the train station in Bullies. One person distracted her, the other stole two of her bags.
Arlinde Vletter, The Netherlands (Nov 98)

A warning for those in Bulawayo: Matopos (Matobos) National Park has never had a problem with crime, or so the locals will tell you. But be careful! A group that I was travelling with in early June 1998 was flagged down by two couples who had just been robbed at gunpoint. The couples hitched a ride with five men in the park after their hostel had failed to pick them up as promised. I personally didn't have any problems in the month and a half that I was in Zimbabwe, but I heard a lot of stories. Just be aware and try not to travel alone when walking around the cities, eg, Harare.
Ian Broughton (Aug 98)

The Prince of Wales View is still impressing, although when I visited there were warnings from the tourist office. More and more robberies seem to occur on the road to the Vumba, notoriously at the Prince of Wales View. These crimes are usually committed in broad daylight by a large group of men. Tourists as well as locals are the victims. The tourist office advises not to visit the view on your own, but in a group.
Floris van Eijk, Netherlands (Jun 98)

Warning about the state of the road in the Chimanimani National Park: it is only really suitable for high clearance vehicles (bakkies and 4WD). If you are really determined, or really mad, you can get an ordinary car up to the base camp if it has fairly high clearance and there hasn't been any rain. It took us one and a half hours to cover the 16km journey from the village in our VW Golf and we were out of the car, assessing a path through the rocks and over the gullies, as often as we were in it!
Melanie Wright - Namibia (Jun 98)

I am a tourist here for a few months holiday and I wish to warn fellow backpackers of the high rate of muggings that happen outside the various backpackers lodges in the city centre and at places like Mbare Market, a suburb of Harare. There are organised gangs who 'stalk' tourists. In my case, I was walking to the market place which was very crowded. A car stopped behind me, five men got out, three held me from behind, whilst the other two cut my backpack and watch from my arm. Then they drove off. There was no visible number plate on the car and the police are not very helpful.
Zsolt (Nov 97)

One of the best things we did in Zimbabwe was to book a four day canoe safari down the Zambezi. There were only 10 people on our journey (and that included two guides), five canoes and about a million hippos and crocs. Negotiating the waters was a bit scary (actually the hippos are more of a hazard than the crocs since it's the hippos that could topple your canoe, leaving you then vulnerable to the crocs!). We cooked together under the stars each night and shared wonderful, hearty breakfasts in the mornings (most days after several hours of paddling). It was the most challenging, romantic and visually stunning things that we did and we'd do it again in an instant.
Alison Momeyer, USA (Sep 98)

If possible, see if you can be at Victoria Falls during a full moon. The Falls National Park is open at night only at this time and a certain amount of people are allowed in. So get there early (I think it opened at about 6pm, but check with the office there). You will be treated to a breathtaking sight - the spray is almost luminous and where the rainbow was during the day, you'll see a lunar rainbow. Once in a lifetime experience, I reckon!
Lisa Burman (Aug 98)

We went to stay with the Madanhire family. The Madanhires live in the Zaka communal lands, about 60kms out of Masvingo. This was a really interesting experience, not least for the fact it was one of the few times we managed to have any sustained conversation with African women. We paid only US$6 per person per day for accommodation, meals and activities: you can do as little or as much as you want there. We visited a school, hoed fields, played with farm animals, swam in the dam, cooked meals, helped kids with their homework and ate as much sadza and rape as I'd ever want to in a three day period again. That said, they do provide copious amounts of food, all of it well prepared.

At night we played cards, seeing they didn't have electricity. We also went on a hike to a well-preserved set of Bushmen paintings showing impala, kudu and giraffe. The walk passes lots of traditional farms and huts, going through very hilly, attractive landscapes with large cliffs and remnant woodland. The women are very willing to talk about life in Zimbabwe and make handicrafts in what time isn't spent cooking, washing, weeding, etc. It's a very different experience of the country.
Buses leave Masvingo musika daily for Jichidza mission at 12pm: ask to be let off at Gunguvu school for the Madanhire family. The phone number is now posted in lots of hostels to ring ahead, but there are lots of rooms if you just want to show up.
Sean Wayman & Cameron Lindsay, Australia (Aug 98)

The view of Victoria Falls from the Zambian side is spectacular and must absolutely not be missed by visitors to the falls. It is possible to walk over as long as you have your passport (we are Canadian and required no visa). The Zambians are friendly and everything was safe. Be prepared to get completely soaked - it's worth the thrill of getting so close that you hear nothing other than the incredible roar of the falling water.
Dave Unger - Canada (Jul 98)

Stamp enthusiasts who want to purchase some older Zimbabwean stamps, or even Rhodesian stamps, can go to the Zimbabwe Stamp Company (Phone: 759 035), in Abby House on George Silundika Avenue, Harare. This is probably the only specialist philatelic shop in the country. Coming from the GPO it is on the right hand side, just before the corner with First Street Mall. The shop is on the first floor and there is also a sign outside.
Floris van Eijk, Netherlands (Jun 98)

While at the Cecil Rhodes grave, I saw the strangest thing. Every day for several years now, the same elderly African has climbed up the hill to tend to the Rhodes grave. Over the years he has somehow trained hundreds of lizards that occupy the rocks to appear on his command. He sits down whistling and calling to them. On a good day he will have 100 to 200 lizards appear. I think he tends to the grave site at around 2 to 3pm every day.
Stuart Anderson - UK (Jun 98)

As already mentioned in the LP guide, Chimanimani district has the only low-level rainforests left in Zimbabwe; the Haroni and Rusitu Botanical Reserves. As well as the unique range of rare plant and animal species, these forests, known locally as Chizire and Nyakwaa are sacred to the people who live in the adjacent communal lands known as Vhimba. The forests and the sacred pools within them are governed by a strict set of cultural rules. Traditional rituals are regularly held and the forests and pools are the source of many stories of strange and mystical happenings. Despite this, the forests are under considerable threat from the demand for firewood and local population increases. CAMPFIRE aims to assist the Vhimba community to benefit from their unique natural resources. The villagers have decided to encourage tourism by developing a campsite and chalets and offering additional activities such as guided walks, meals in the local village, dancing, drumming and craft workshops and opportunities to hear some of the ancient stories. This is an ideal opportunity for visitors to stay with the local people in one of the most unique, relaxing and scenically beautiful parts of Zimbabwe. The campsite is due to open in Summer 1998 and the chalets later on in the year. Further information can be obtained from: The Campfire Unit, Chimanimani Rural District Council, PO Box 65, Chimanimani, Zimbabwe. Tel: (126) 2272/3.
Helen Steward (Nov 97)