MAURITANIA

Visas, Border Crossings & Embassies

I'm headed from Europe down through West Africa and had major hassles, as described in the LP West Africa guide, getting a Mauritania visa in Paris. Avoid Mauritania's Paris office at all costs. They refused to give me an overland visa, then refused to give me a visa with a plane ticket more than a month before the departure date. I was told to come back a few weeks before my flight left. Of course, that was impossible since the plane ticket was headed for refund land as soon as I had the visa and I'd be crossing into Mauritania by land from Morocco. I decided to try my luck in Madrid last week and was pleasantly surprised. The staff was very helpful and I walked out of the Mauritania embassy in Madrid three days later with an overland visa good for three months (the max) for 8900 pesetas. No problem! They told me that they just started issuing overland visas; no need to fake a plane ticket. Apparently the news has not yet reached Paris. They did require me to write a letter of request for the visa, stating my intended purpose (tourism) and itinerary. This did not have to come from my home country's embassy I scribbled it out on notebook paper and they accepted it.
Josh Crosslin, USA (Sept 98)

Don't try to enter Mauritania without a visa - two Germans on our convoy from Morocco were refused entry and there was no way of bribing thermselves in.
Jutta Langlotz - Switzerland (Jan 98)

It is possible to go from Nouadhibou to Dakhla if you hire a guide in Nouadhibou (US$100) who leads you through the minefilds to avoid the Mauritanian border post; you then are lead to the sandroute in no man's-land on which you continue to the Moroccan border post.

To enter Morocco, you must have a vehicle. You are then required to stay at the border for 36 hours so that the officials (they are very friendly) can sort out all the paperwork with Dakhla.
Jutta Langlotz - Switzerland (Jan 98)

Nouakchott, Mauritania, is one possible place to get your Mali, Burkina and DM Congo visas amongst others. Mali charged UM 1475, Burkina (French embassy) UM 4356 for a British national. Americans paid UM 5000 for a Zaire visa (same day).

The routes from Mauitania to Mali are all open now in both directions. It is even possible to make a short cut to Timbuktu this way (consult a Michelin map).
Dave Barkshire - UK (May 97)

Nouakchott is now a great place to change money. There are black market dealers all over the market and they will also change Amex dollar travellers' cheques. Rates here were often good. The police don't seem to interfere.

We got no currency declaration form although we did ask for it at Nouadhibou. Most border posts will still ask for it when you exit, but we slipped out without visiting the customs. I think that the days of currency body searches are over.

Morocco - Mauritania : The only possibility to cross is at the southern fort of Al Gargarat about 365 km south of Dakhla. Every traveller has to have a visa for Mauritania except French and Italian, who might be granted entry without visas. Since there is no public transport from Dakhla to Nouadhibou (the first town in Mauritania) you have to catch a ride in a tourist vehicle or with Mauritanians who leave Dakhla in convoys every Tuesday and Friday around midday, to arrive in Gargarat in the late evening.

The night is spent there, next to the military base on a parking ground without any possibilities to buy food or water. There are two small houses, one for Mauritanians, the other one for tourists. The next day the convoy will reach Nouadhibou in the afternoon or night. There are different camping grounds in town. You'll find the police station to get your passports stamped just across the main road. I met people (Australian, German Belgian) who were sent back to the Moroccan border because their visas were not yet valid - they either had to stay in the desert no-man's-land or go back all the way up to Dakhla and come back with the next convoy - so make sure you carry a valid visa by the day you get into Mauritania.

Mauritania - Morocco : The way south-north is officially closed and forbidden. Nevertheless there are possibilities to cross because the Moroccans let you in if you are in/on a motor vehicle (lorry, car, motorcycle) and have a valid Moroccan visa (if necessary). They won't let you in if you are walking or if you are a black African.

You have to leave Mauritania secretly, avoiding any contact with mine fields, police and border officials or military. There are guides to accompany vehicles to a place in sight of the Moroccan border post 6 km south of Al Gargarat. You can find the guides in Nouakchott and Nouadhibou and their help will cost you 1000 French Francs. Ask for possibilities in the restaurant "Le Petit Paris" in Nouakchott close to the Novotel or at the camping ground "Tergit Vacances on the coast. From Nouakchott you'll have to count on 1,000 km without buying food or drinks all the way up to Dakhla/Morocco which might last four to five days (including border stops with the Moroccans).

From Nouadhibou it's only about 70 km to the Moroccan border, so think of one day to get there - it's a 36 hours waiting time at Al Gargarat and then a day's trip up to Dakhla. Beware of people who offer much cheaper guidance who often don't know the way and want to make easy money, just hoping to avoid mine fields and avoid the military - Inch Allah.
Hans-Peter Hauschild, Germany (Oct 98)