Travellers' cheques are the go for payment and money: BNI-CL and BTM have the best rates. Mastercard is accepted by many upmarket travel and tour agencies (including Air Madagascar) and hotels, but Visa card is really only feasible within such establishments in Tana, and for withdrawals at BFV bank. French francs and $US are the most widely accepted currencies. GBPs, DMs, ITLs, SwFs travellers' cheques and cash are only useful for changing at banks, not for hotel or travel payment.
E-mail is only readily available in Tana. The largest choice of internet establishments (all two of them) is in Haute-Ville. Outside the capital, e-mail is only available at certain hotels and is very expensive.
Tana: the best handicrafts and arts are at the Artisans' Market.
An extraordinary proportion of backpackers are sneaking into national parks without paying the appropriate fees. I do not understand this. Take Isalo NP, for example: the standard three day Canyons/Piscine Naturelle trek with a guide and a porter will cost you FMg 225, 000 (US$ 36) in fees. This amount will contribute to the livelihood of you guide, your porter and the ANGAP office staff and their families, and will assist in maintaining the facilities within the park, providing improvements to the standards of education and infrastructure in Ranohira village. This amount is earned by the average Western tourist in under four hours. I strongly urge these fee-dodgers to get a grip on third-world economic realities and the extent of their selfishness.
I think a warning as to the liberal-minded attitudes of the Malagasy towards sex is warranted. A remnant of French colonialism, perhaps? Though, at times, they could makes even the most all-embracing Parisien blush! Vazahas (both male and female) are hot targets. Males should be warned about the apparent fine line between one-night flings and prostitution in Madagascar. After an evening of sexual activity, the male is expected to provide a post-coital cadot (gift) to the female. This can range from a highly sought marriage proposal to a piece of gold jewellery, or a few thousand Malagasy francs. It is not (technically) prostitution, as the local males must follow the same procedure. White females are sought for later-stage bragging rights, and because they're less likely to demand a present! Both parties should heed the high rate of HIV: the local brand of condoms are kapoty (pronounced kaPOOT). Keep safe!
Ken Johnston, Australia (Apr 99)
You can change money at the airport; offices are open whenever a flight arrives. Credit Lyonnais don't charge commission to change travellers' cheques. Only new US$100 bills are accepted; at some other banks, they did not accept any US$100 bills at all.
Most guesthouses don't have fax machines, so reserving is not easy.
Geertrui Agneessens & Patricia Nicolaus, Belgium (Dec 98)
The discount for internal flights is given only to those who fly from Reunion and South Africa (not from Nairobi).
We wanted to go to Berenty independently, but we found out that the only way to visit this private reserve is by taking an organised tour with SHTM; you cannot make your own arrangements.
Roi Dor, Israel (Dec 98)
The Fiannar office of Air Madagascar is now located in hotel Radama at Place du Zoma. The telephone number is: 261 7 507 97; fax number: 261 7 513 76. Payment by credit card is not possible.
Ranomafana National Park: you should take several walks in the park, as every moment of the day is totally different. You can choose between a park guide and a private guide; they are both the same price. Our feeling is that the park guides are better. You should plan some walks in the early morning (from about 7.30am), as this is the best time to spot animals. There are no guides available between 12-2pm.
There is no luggage deposit room at the airport. Arriving early at the airport, we planned to leave our luggage and walk to Ivato for one last meal. However, we didn't want to take the risk of walking with our luggage, so we were stuck at the airport for a few hours.
Once at the airport, you cannot change your FMG money back to hard currency. Locals will ask to change it for you; wherever you come from, they have the right coins for you. Of course, you get a terrible exchange rate, but for some people it was apparently better than nothing because they were doing good business. A better option is to spend your last money in the shops; there are a few decent handicraft shops at the airport. Otherwise, if you have a lot of money left, you can use it to pay the airport departure tax which amounts to FF120. About three hours before departure, the check-in opens. Note that once you have passed check-in and customs, you cannot pay for anything with FMG anymore.
Geertrui Agneessens, Belgium (Dec 98)
Ankarana: we met some fraught and exhausted people who were regretting going there independently; they were not having a good time. We spent one night each at English Camp and American Camp, and were glad that we had been to both. Although the English Camp was better for lemurs and access to the tsingy, we enjoyed Camp America as it had good birding, great scenery, and we were the only people there (unlike the English Camp which was a bit hectic with a number of tour companies rushing in and out on whistle-stop tours).
We enjoyed Kirindy, although I think it is important to point out that it is very basic: no electricity; the hygiene facilities consist of just one cold tap and a filthy drop toilet. The meals consist of rice, potatoes and more rice. Anyone expecting tourist facilities should be warned. Also, we were very disappointed to discover that the giant jumping rat hibernates during the winter, along with the tenrecs and the tortoises.
Make sure you take enough to read. We ran out halfway into our trip, and spent a fruitless day in Tana failing to find any books printed in English, apart from one extortionately-priced Mills and Boon in the Hilton Hotel - not even we were that desperate!
Harriet & Mike Kendrick, UK (Nov 98)
It's worth stressing the sheer bulk of the currency, especially the old bank notes; you need large wallets and money belts.
In Tana I was able to get a cash advance from my Visa card at BFV without any trouble - it took a couple of hours. However, this process took all day at Fort Dauphin.
Tsimbazaza: it is best to go in the mid-afternoon as the lemurs tend to sleep in the middle of the day.
I recommend seeing the aye-ayes at dusk. Purchase a ticket half an hour before closing time (5pm) and meet the guides at 6pm.
The Musee d'Art & Archaeologie is now exclusively devoted to Malagasy musicology.
The Rova, or what is left of it, is off-limits, though I managed get inside during the official ceremony to launch the restoration project. After speeches by the prime minister and other dignitaries, three zebu were sacrificed, their blood sprinkled on the royal tombs and the meat distributed to the crowd.
Items salvaged from the Rova fire are on display in the Palais d'Andraviavata (now billed as the Palais de la Reine) including the throne and crown, beds and palanquins of several monarchs, jewellery, portraits and photographs. A visit here is a must.
Richard Wilkinson, UK (Nov 98)
Madagascar On Line : http://www.madonline.com, has current politics and other general information in English and French.
Frederic Heusse, France (Aug 98)
Banks and Bureau de Change do not accept the 'old' (pre-1996) $100 bills. The only bills that are accepted are the 'new' ones with a large head of Ben Franklin on them. The reason is that there are many fakes around, and many banks/bureau de change don't have verification machines. This has caused us a lot of trouble and we've had to resort to 'back of the shop' type negotiations at terrible rates. Also, Madagascar does not have an arrangement with Thomas Cook so these travellers' cheques are not accepted. Again, we learnt the hard way!
Stephen Nelson, UK (Jul 98)
A warning for people travelling with Trangia cookers - we couldn't find methylated spirits (or any pure alcohol) anywhere.
Jodie Littlewood & Peter Sorensen - Australia (no date)
Zoma Market: it is no more! The authorities decided to spread the market all over the city because of traffic problems in the main street.
Tal Zakay & Chen Ferder - Israel (Jun 98)
In the big cities (Tana, Toliara and Tamatave), there are some new public phones that work with cards that you can buy in post offices. You can use these phones even when the post office is closed. For international calls dial 16 and then the country code. In towns where there are no such telephones, you have to find the 'Telecom Malagasy' office and ask there for international talk. The prices are for three minutes talking (or more) only, and it's available only when the office is open. Three minutes talk to Israel cost us approximately US$20.
The people in Ifaty (and in other places around Madagascar) take live shells and corals from the sea, kill them and then sell them to tourists. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE don't help destroy the beautiful reef by buying such souvenirs. Buying encourages collecting, so please refuse to buy and ignore the offers.
Bella & Yuval Sapir - Israel (Apr 98)
In the foyer of the Hotel Hilton there is now a small cyber cafΘ with two PCs: DTS operated by Data Telekom Service. One can buy usage cards at reception which cost 30,000FMG for half an hour. An email program (Eudora) and a web-browser have been installed, however, there is no diskette drive. One cannot write emails off line.
To be able to use the internet properly one can bring a laptop to Madagascar and go to DTS and ask for an abbonement. This is arranged the same day. Installation is 30,000 a month, and about the same per month for use.
Manfred Luft (Jan 98)
My son in Madagascar reports that the zoma market, the Friday market in Antananarivo, which was the major attraction of the city and the second largest open-air market in the world, no longer exists, or indeed any market in the centre of town.
Ursual Freeman - UK (Nov 97)
Calling Europe or the rest of the world is now possible in the bigger towns, like Mahajanga, Tana, Fianar, and Antsirabe, but you have to go to the Telecom Malagasy. They have separate fares for each country. To Austria it cost about 18,000FMG per minute, but you have to pay for three minutes minimum and then for every additional minute. Also, sending a fax was no problem - for this they usually only charge for the time it takes. In the large towns there are now also so called public phones which work with phone cards.
Michael Friedrich Russold (Nov 97)
The entrance fees of the national parks goes partly to the communities. In Isalo our guide told us they build a water reserve with the money and in the near future wanted to build a house and install a common television. In Perinet a student told us the electricity net is constructed and financed with part of the entrance fees.
Els and Ingrid Robeyns - Belgium (Oct 97)
The atmosphere in Tana and in the countryside was very pleasant. We heard that because of the Asian Games held in Tana in September, several things in the capital had been changed: the Zoma has disappeared from its original place; in the Artisans Market we visited we saw several official guards in blue uniform; we hardly saw any beggars in the streets; and nobody got robbed, even after dark. We felt at ease although it might only be a temporary change.
Marijke Nieuwerth-Brouwer - Netherlands (no date)
The train between Tana and Antsirabe is again in service on Saturdays and Sundays. It leaves Tana at 7am in the morning and arrives in Antsirabe at 11am. In the other direction, the train leaves at 1pm from Antsirabe. First class seats cost about 15,000FMG each.
Sophie Pellaud & Christophe Mayor, Switzerland (Feb 99)
To get from Fianarantsoa to Ranohira, it is a good idea to take a taxi-brousse going direct to Ranohira, even if that means you have to leave later in the afternoon. We took a taxi-brousse to Ihosy (a four hour trip) and had difficulties finding transport to Ranohira.
Magnus Seger & Mary Seger Smedmark, Sweden (Dec 98)
The road from Malaimbandy toMiandrivazo is quite bad.
Roi Dor, Israel (Dec 98)
The train ride between Fiannar and Manakara is excellent fun; if possible, you really have to do this. Traversing beautiful landscape, it stops frequently (about 20 times) in picturesque villages, and while they are loading and unloading the train, you have ample time to explore. In every village they sell different food, so you won't starve. There are no fixed departure and arrival times, but don't worry, you will not be bored for a second. If it becomes dark outside, and you can no longer admire the landscape, locals light candles in the train, making it very cosy. It is brilliant, don't miss it! Downhill is fast and hilarious, and feels like a toboggan ride. The price for a first class ticket is FMG 36,500.
Geertrui Agneessens, Belgium (Dec 98)
It's worth stressing the paucity of TAM flights - just one a week to the limited destinations they serve, and none at all on Wednesdays.
Air Madagascar at Fort Dauphin accepts Mastercard but not Visa.
The Tana-Antsirabe train service has ceased operation. The Tana-Toamasina line now only goes as far as Moramanga. These cessations are probably permanent.
Antsirabe: there is now another taxi-brousse station serving Tana and the north.
I don't recommend taking a bike to Betafo as it inhibits wandering around the market.
I wasn't hassled very much by the pousse-pousse jockeys in Antsirabe; they are much worse in Tulear. Gem vendors are more of a nuisance.
Richard Wilkinson, UK (Nov 98)
There are no more trains to Tamatave or Antsirabe. The only train to and from Tana leaves every two days (at different hours) to Ambatondrazaka (near Lac Aloatra). The only other train still running is between Manakara and Fianar. It is not easy to continue the way to Tamatave from Andasibe. We took a half-empty taxi-be back to Moramanga for a lot of money, from where we found transport very rapidly to Tamatave.
Madou Hillenius - France (Oct 98)
Air Madagascar offers 30 to 40% discounts on internal flights if you have booked your international flight with them. The travel agents will tell you that these flights must be pre-booked with your international ticket or at least before you leave for Madagascar, but this is not true. All you have to do is show your international ticket at any Air Mad office (in Madagascar) when booking a domestic flight and tell them you know you're entitled to the discount. You'll then pay the same as you would have before leaving for Madagascar. They'll only accept payment by credit card in Tana.
Jodie Littlewood & Peter Sorensen - Australia (no date)
Isalo, getting there and away: if you don't have a vehicle, you have to take the bus that goes daily from Tana to Toliara. The bus passes through Fianarantsoa at 2am and collects passengers (if there is room). The price is US$5 for one ticket from Fiana to Ranohira (the village near Isalo). Don't pay the entire price before you really have a place on the bus. We paid half of the price and we were told that a reservation had been made for our seats, but unfortunately, there are no telephones at the station, and therefore, no reservation was really made. The bus was full and didn't stop in Fiana, so we had to find another way to get to Isalo.
Bella & Yuval Sapir - Israel (Apr 98)
The bus company FIMA does not exist anymore (p142 of the book), so the only way to get to the taxi brousse station south in Tana is by taxi (US$1).
ANGAP's main office has moved. The new office is at the corner of Lalana Naka Rabemanatsoa and Arabe Rainizanabolone, just a few streets north from the train station. Note: there is no need to go to the office of ANGAP in Tana (or any other town) to get permission to visit the National Parks. You can buy your permission in every park when you get there. Permission for visiting any national park in Madagascar costs US$4 for non-residents and US$3 for student non-residents. The permission can be bought in the park and it is valid for four days. To find a guide, there is no need to go to Ranomafana village - guides can be found easily near the entrance to the park.
Bella & Yuval Sapir - Israel (Apr 98)
Air Comores doesn't exist any longer. They started Kamaria Air from 31/10/97: BP 784, Moroni; Phone: 733 505. There are no more Air France flights either. Air Austral only goes as far as Nairobi, Reunion, Seychelles, and South Africa. Air Madagascar flies once a week Majunga-Moroni, Majunga-Mayotte and Antananarivo-Moroni (continues on to Nairobi).
Sonia Werg - Belgium (Mar 98)
We can strongly recommend other travellers to do a part of their discovery by mountain bike. We did so in Antsirabe and it was hard, but wonderful. You need a good bike, however, and they are relatively expensive, but open another world.
Also in Antsirabe, to get around with pousse-pousse, 2,000 appears to be a good tourist price, but they try to make you pay 40,000, especially when you arrive at the bus station. A good tip is to walk half a kilometre by foot, as they will not all follow you (some 50 pousse-pousse men were waiting when we arrived, which was very stressful).
Els & Ingrid Robeyns - Belgium (Oct 97)
MADAGASCAR