GHANA

Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings

A visa is necessary for Canadian residents.
Doug Turgeon, Canada (Nov 98)

For Visa extensions in Ghana some travellers told me they need between two to four weeks, otherwise if you have no time you can speed it up with a bribe. Or go to Takoradi where they need a week and cost about DM10/20.
Carsten Kolle (Feb 98)

First of all, no matter where you get your visa, and no matter how long the embassy tells you it's good for, the entry stamp permits a one month stay. To extend this, you need to go to a regional immigration office, fill in a ridiculous amount of paperwork, attach two passport photos, pay at least 20,000 cedis (approximately US$10) per month, and wait up to two weeks for the processing, unless you are very persistent. A photocopy of your return ticket is also usually required.
Laura Fairley & Mathias Kom - Canada (Jan 98)

Visas to Ghana cost CFA 12,000 for 30 days. And are issued in 48 hours.
Frtiz & Katia - France (Nov 1997)

Make sure you take recent US dollars (ie post 1990), as you may have hassles changing older notes in some ForEx bureaus.

If you contract malaria, you should go to the Nyaho Clinic in Airport Residential and ask for Dr Handa. He is a tropical medicine specialist and also runs an after hours clinic from his home. You can also go straight to the Medlabs laboratory in Airport Residential and ask the expatriate laboratory manager to recommend a good doctor - they are more than helpful.
Jane Allen, Australia (Feb 99)

We found it to be the most friendly country we have ever been to. We moved around freely and never felt threatened or harrassed. Driving around was relatively easy; we considered it to be safer than hiring a taxi. Always have small change on you so that when you're at traffic lights you can give to the blind or infirm.

Ghanians are immensely proud of their hospitality and rightly so. If you endeavour to use a few words of Fante or Ewe, or wear local clothes, they will be genuinely pleased and flattered.

Service is poor and slow at most places. At times this can be infuriating. However, you just have to accept that the pace of life is slower and nothing is done on time.

During January-April 1998, there were regular power cuts: 24 hours on, then 24 hours off. This was due to the water in Lake Volta being at its lowest ever level. If you can't cope with heat, either stay in hotels with powerful generators or check the power situation before you go.
John Scott, Australia (Feb 99)

The cultural eco-tourism project of Laribanga, was initiated by local villagers. Now with a PCV at site, it offers local accommodations right outside the Mole Game Reserve for those who prefer to immerse in the culture, rather than stay in the antiseptic government hotel. Travellers can learn about the culture from locals who give tours and observation of people in their daily routine. Their address is Laribanga Development Committee, PO box 47, Damongo N/R, Ghana. It is definitely a worthwhile project benefitting locals (they provide income-generating services "extremely reasonable in price" like tours/laundry/meals) and travellers who want to see "real life" in an environmentally/culturally friendly manner.
Laura White, USA (Sept 98)

There is a new national park in Ghana, called the Kyabobo Range National Park or KRNP. It is on the Togo border in the northern part of the Volta region and it adjoins the Fazao-Malfacassa National Park over the border. To see the area, you will have to go to the small town of Nkwanta. To get there from the south you need to go via Hohoe. There are one or (occasionally) two buses a day, which tend to leave midmorning when full (but get to the station early). The journey takes four and 1/2 hours along a bad road. From Tamale, you have to go via Yendi, Bimbilla, Kpasa and possibly other places too (depending on the drivers). This will take a good 13 hours and is a hideous nightmare.

All the rangers are employed from villages near the park. The park is a success being a collaboration between local communities and the wildlife department. It is a rare situation in that the local communities are going to benefit directly from the park and hence relations are very good. At present no tourists have ever visited and the area is unknown, even to most Ghanaians. You can't expect to find yourself eating anything but banku, fufu or rice. It is the best place in Ghana for seeing mountains and is excellent for hiking through the thick rainforest, up to the top of some of the highest peaks in Ghana (2800m). There are also some very impressive waterfalls (one of which is about 50 ft high). Walking here is difficult during the height of the rainy season (May - August) and the waterfalls will obviously be slightly less impressive before the rains. In November there is the not-to-be-missed Yam festival for the Akyode people. Here they all meet in Nkwanta to eat the new yams. All the chiefs come out in their full regalia and there is lots of dancing.
Andrew Lyon, UK (Aug 98)

There are many new hotels and restaurants in Ghana. You can get a list from the internet at:
[www.ghanatouristboard.com] and also at [www.africaonline.co.ci].
Hans Baars - Netherlands (Jul 98)

Note that Kumasi phone numbers are now five digit. Most numbers have a 2 in front.
Cara MacMahon & Crispin Taylor (Apr 98)

The telephone number of Ghana Airways is 021/ 776 171.
Florence Crovato - UK (Jan 98)

Post and telecommunications: it is now possible to call Canada, the UK and the USA reverse charges or via calling card from the Ghana telecom office at either the Accra North post office, or the main post office in Kumasi. This is very easy to do. Fax and telegram services are available at these locations as well.
Laura Fairley & Mathias Kom - Canada (Jan98)

Busua Beach in Ghana is no longer the idyllic area that it may have once been. Almost every traveller we met had had something stolen from them there, and one we met was mugged. Also the children are constantly hassling travellers for money, as are the local entrepreneurs. The rest of Ghana is not really like this, at least from our experience.
Krista Loynachan - USA (Dec 1997)

Bolgatanga: the taxi tro-tro park at the south-western end of town only serves destinations to the south and perhaps to the east. If you continue to Navrongo or Paga, the tro-tro park is at the north-eastern end of town. The road on the LP map which leads nowhere from the restaurant Comme ci Comme Ca is the street where you can find the tro-tro station. This road finally ends at the Bazar Road.
Christoph Kessel, Germany (Feb 99)

I visited Tema, the port city near Accra, Ghana, to find out about passenger service to South Africa. According to the people at Black Star, the major shipping company, all of their boats are presently out of commission and there is no passenger service anywhere. Other companies only ship cargo.
Sheila S. Kamp, USA (Nov 98)

Canny Ghanaian travellers use Air Egypt which is much cheaper though it may mean an overnight stop in Cairo. But Air Egypt pay for a room in a smart airport hotel. AN overnight transit visa is free and you can book a few hours trip to the Pyramids! This presumably applies to travellers changing planes for any other Air Egypt destination in Africa.
Jane Chesters - UK (Oct 97)

I recommend the beach at Ada-Foah, but do NOT swim in the river at all. Two friends of mine got Bilharzia (Schistosomiasis) in the river, even though salt water flows into it at high tides.

There were also a lot of cases of malaria in Ghana.
Kris

We feel it's imperative that we share our experiences regarding sexual harassment so you can adequately prepare future women travellers in your updated guide. You are not likely to encounter harassment outside of the major cities, however, in Kumasi and Accra, it can sometimes be very bad. I had my breasts and crotch grabbed in broad daylight on a major street a few times to the amusement of crowds of on-lookers, despite my male companion. Although this happened infrequently, there were rather harrowing experiences. Throughout our stay in both Kumasi and Accra I was followed by a trail of hissing and cat calls and somewhat persistent suitors when unaccompanied. Although it may be safer than other west African countries, you still need to be on your guard and not afraid to assert yourself, as silence only encourages these men to do it to the next traveller.

Speaking of harassment, in Kumasi travellers need to be on their guard against young boys interested in 'being your friend'. A common story once your 'friendship' has been established, is that their parents are dear, they are living with their grandmother, and need money (which they expect and demand) to pay for school. Nine times out of ten, this is total crap and if you don't give it to them, they will rob you. Be blunt right off the bat when you see them approaching and say "I don't need a guide thank you very much", or if this doesn't work: "Go away, I don't want to be your friend". Obviously, being Canadian, overcoming our inbred politeness and spinelessness was difficult, however, once $50 poorer it became much easier. Kumasi has become so touristic; these kids are everywhere. As well, when they ask for your address, give it, but don't give your phone number as they all know how to use Canada direct and your parents of other confused loved ones at home will soon go broke from all the collect calls. This sounds funny, however, is a vital piece of information to include in the guide.
Laura Fairley & Mathias Kom - Canada (Jan 98)

Around Hohoe - The Wli falls, the tallest falls in west Africa, lies in a beautiful park. Go to Wli from Hohoe, go to the Ghana Wildlife office, pay a small fee and you get a guide. It takes 30 min of easy walking, but you have to cross the river several times. The small river is fast running and the water is clean. In front of the fall there is a small lake you can swim in, or even go under the waterfall.
Kris Borring Prasada Rao - Denmark (Feb 98)

Likpe caves. Claustrophobic caves full of bats; fascinating. Very interesting 30 min hike/climb to get there. The hike is awesome, but suicidal. Likpe is on the way to Wli. Ask for the chief, he will provide you with guides - remember to dash.
Kris Borring Prasada Rao - Denmark (Feb 98)

Western Region: Ankasa/Nini Suhien national park. Only true every green rainforest in Ghana, some of it primary, all of it in excellent condition, worth Ghana's highest bio-diversity and extremely thick. You probably won't see the elephants or chimpanzee.. Very easy to get to. From Takoradi to Elubo, take bus to Ayinase and ask for the Ghana Wildlife office. The fee is very small and facilities non-existing. Remember to dash the rangers, they earn very little and certainly deserve a dash for their hospitality. The park will be developed for tourism in some years, with EU funding.
Kris Borring Prasada Rao - Denmark (Feb 98)

Ada-Foah. The best beach in Ghana. Get a trotro or bus from Makola marked trotro stand. Go to the tourist office, they will arrange a small boat to Estuary Beach Camp. Palm leaf huts and coconut groves just where the Volta meets the Atlantic ocean. Totally secluded place during weekdays you're probably the only guest, friendly and cheap, very basic. Bring your own water, as it is expensive at the camp. The food is eatable but nothing special. You can swim in the ocean and wash off the salt in the river which is breckish and safe. Breeding ground for turtles, which sometimes can be seen when the moon is full. It is safe to sleep at the beach in the Beach Camp premises as there is a guard at night.
Kris Borring Prasada Rao - Denmark (Feb 98)

Shai hills. Small park between Tema and Akosombo. Good for spotting baboons, hornbills, antelope. Come early, wear proper shoes and long trousers.
Kris Borring Prasada Rao - Denmark (Feb98)