GAMBIA

  • Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
  • Travel Tips
  • Scams and Warnings

    Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings

    You can get visas for Guinea and Guinea-Bissau in Banjul, but the Malian consul, who runs a backyard garage, no longer issues visas for his home country. If you fly into Bamako (Mali) from The Gambia you'll get the visa at the airport. Travelling on the road I arrived at the eastern border of Senegal at Kidira-Diboli, claiming the consul in Banjul had said the visa was issued at the border; they didn't have visas but fined me 5000 FCFA - US$9 - and let me in. I later got the visa in Bamako free.
    Hans-Peter Hauschild, Germany (Oct 98)

    Travel Tips

    Change money in The Gambia rather than the UK as you get a better rate - about 17.8D to the pound in the supermarkets, or 18D on the black market. No commission with either.

    If you want to avoid The Gambia's equivalent of Majorca, avoid the Senegambia area of the coast. Nightmarish now. Cape Point seems to be the only "real" place left - even Sunwing now plays Spice Girls and does all inclusive holidays.

    The manager of the Bungalow Beach hotel has started a Gambia Tourism Concern organisation. It's offices are at the Bakadaji restaurant and they produce a monthly magazine called Concern. The idea is based on the Big Issue. The team are also keen to talk to people face to face so do drop in. (tel : 462 057; fax 466 180). They also have a VSO volunteer working with them and have helped in the production of a video due to be introduced into the inflight entertainment explaining the culture of The Gambia. Please encourage people to ask their flight companies if they will be showing it.

    If you want to visit a school and support it, try Bundung Vocational School on the Bundung Highway in Serrekunda. They take students who have graduated from secondary school and teach them a skill for two years. They deal with accounting, typing, office procedure, computing (but with no computers) tye-dying, soap production etc. They also house a nursery on site. The principal is Mr Kandeh - tel : 395 981. The school is located in a road just opposite the mosque on the Bundung Highway and is signposted.
    Nicole (Nov 98)

    In January 1998, I paid 80 Dalasi ($7-$8) for a bush taxi (including baggage) from Barra (North Bank of Gambia river, across from Banjul) to Dakar. It is another 5 Dalasi to cross the river by ferry, or pirogue if you miss the ferry, between Barra and Banjul. There was also an express bus, which I missed, for 72 Dalasi. The trip took 5-6 hours. I assume the prices are similar in the reverse. Once in Banjul, local transportation is cheap (2 Dalasi between most locations, maybe 5 Dalasi to get off Banjul island) by shared taxi or minibus. Transportation upcountry is also cheap by bus, which actually run almost on schedule, and the Gambia has some of the best roads in West Africa.
    Steve (Jan 98)

    We've just come back from Gambia (& a bit of Senegal). On the coast you will be approached regularly by guides, touts etc (The best gambit is "Its me, from the hotel! You don't remember me?" to which "Which hotel?" is an effective reply) but a firm but friendly "not right now" and they don't persist. Inland its easier as they are usually genuinely friendly, and the forward attitude makes it easy to make friends and really learn about what its like in The Gambia. If travelling inland a bit there are scheduled buses (the GPTC Gambia Public Transport Company) from Serracunda, take the Super Express (not the usual Express) for a comfortable trip to Georgetown or Basse. In Georgetown (small, friendly, quiet, on an island) there are several lodges where you can stay, the Janjang Bureh camp is the largest, with a good restaurant but ring and book as its busy. About 5 pounds a night. Wonderful birdlife especially if you can get up early, no patience necessary but binos a must. Its also possible to cross to Senegal (we did this via Velingara, the transport across the border must rate as some of the most dilapidated in the world but it works - most of the time). Get CFAs before you cross. Niokolo Koba national park is worth a visit, stay in Camp du Lions (cheap, basic) or Simienti Hotel (40 pounds a night double, full board, less basic).
    Dan (Jan 98)

    Scams & Warnings

    LP already warns of the notorious hustlers, but a far more dangerous threat to others are what I would call those of the "nice guy" syndrome. A majority of the long-term visitors have fallen victim to them.

    You will meet perfectly respectable people, often by chance it seems, who will "befriend" you quite innocently. They will warn you of the hustlers, decrying them and very subtly help you without any pushiness and appear perfect gentlemen - often very religious and pious too. Gradually, over time as they have earned your confidence (and honoured you by taking you to their family) a hard luck story will enfold - eg a member of family in hospital, death of a breadwinner, personal betrayal or bad luck in business - they know what to target. Westerners are not used to such wiles and fall for such clever manoeuvring. They have taken hustling higher to almost an art form and full time profession - they are so clever at deception that even some locals fall prey.
    Jane Thombs, Australia (Sep 98)


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