DESTINATION FRENCH GUIANA

In the mid-19th century, the French government set out to reduce prison costs at home by sloughing off undesirables by way of their colonies. Searching for their most forsaken frontier outpost to drop the luckless cons, they came up with Guiana. Though its last penal colony closed in 1953, this tropical pocket of ooh-la-la now takes prisoners of another variety. Budget travelers beware: French Guiana is among South America's costliest destinations.

Modern French Guiana is a land of idiosyncrasies, where European Space Agency satellite launches rattle the market gardens of displaced Hmong farmers from Laos and thinly populated rainforests swallow nearly all but the country's coastline. Highly subsidized by Mother France, it boasts the highest standard of living of any 'country' in South America, but look beyond the capital city and you'll still find backwoods settlements of Marons and Amerindians barely eking out a living. Traveling in French Guiana isn't easy, but it is part of the adventure. And if you have Francophile leanings, live in the Americas and enjoy roughing it in the rainforest, it's one place where you can have your canapé under the canopy without crossing the pond to Charles de Gaulle.

Map of French Guiana (8K)

Facts at a Glance
Environment
History
Economy
Culture
Events
Facts for the Traveler
Money & Costs
When to Go

Attractions
Off the Beaten Track
Activities
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Recommended Reading
Lonely Planet Guides
Travelers' Reports on French Guiana
On-line Info

Facts at a Glance

Full country name: Guyane Française
Area: 91,250 sq km (56,575 sq mi)
Population: 134,000
Capital city: Cayenne (pop 40,000)
People: 70% Creole (African/Afro-European descent), 10% European, 8% Asian, 8% Brazilian, 4% Amerindian
Language: French, French Guianese creole, Amerindian languages
Religion: Predominantly Catholic
Government: Overseas department of France

Environment

Located on the northeastern coast of South America, French Guiana is roughly the same size as Ireland or the US state of Indiana. It borders Brazil in the east and south, the Atlantic in the north and Suriname to the west, where the Maroni (Marowijne) and Litani rivers encompass a disputed border area.

Approximately 90% of the country is blanketed by scarcely populated equatorial forest, which rises gradually from the coastal strip toward the modest Tumac-Humac Mountains on the Brazilian frontier. Most Guianais live along the Atlantic coast, and the area contains most of the country's limited road network. The coast comprises mainly mangrove swamp with a few sandy beaches. Fauna includes monkeys, caimans, tapirs, ocelots and anteaters.

French Guiana is a wet country: even when it's not raining, the air hangs heavy with humidity. The country's tropical rainforests top out at around 30°C (85°F) and receive over 250cm (100in) of rain per annum. The rain falls heaviest from January to June, with May seeing the worst of it. Cayenne, the capital, and Guiana's other Atlantic coast settlements are less muggy than inland areas, but that's not saying much.

History

The original inhabitants of French Guiana were Carib and Arawak Indians. By the mid-17th century, the Dutch, British and French had all established colonies in the region. Though territorial and commercial arrangements shifted frequently, France consolidated control of the region in 1817. Sugar and rainforest timber became the colony's economic mainstays. Slaves brought from Africa worked the sugar plantations, though their success was limited by tropical diseases and the hostility of the local Indians. The plantations' output never matched that of other French Caribbean colonies, and after the abolition of slavery in 1848, the local industry virtually collapsed.

At about the same time, it was decided that penal settlements in Guiana would reduce the cost of prisons in France and contribute to the development of the colony. Some 70,000 prisoners - including Alfred Dreyfus and Henri 'Papillon' Charrière - arrived between 1852 and 1939. Those who survived their initial sentence were forced to remain in Guiana as exiles for an equal period of time, but as 90% of them died of malaria or yellow fever, the policy did little for population growth.

Guiana remained a penal colony until after WWII, becoming a department of France in 1946. Since then, many natives have called for increased autonomy, though only around 5% favor independence from France, partly due to the vast subsidies the French government supplies. The European Space Centre at Kourou has brought a corner of French Guiana into the modern world and attracted a sizable expatriate work force.

Economic Profile

GDP: US$800 million
GDP per head: US$6000
Inflation: 2.5%
Major industries: Shrimp, forest products, mining, satellite launching
Major trading partners: France, EU

Culture

French Guiana is predominantly Roman Catholic, and French is the official language. Nearly everyone also speaks the native creole, French Guianese, while Marons (descendants of escaped slaves who established villages in the interior) and Amerindians maintain their own religions and speak Arawak, Carib, Emerillon, Oyapi, Palicur and Wayana. Tokens of the country's French connection - francs, gendarmes and sidewalk cafes - mingle with local influences - such as Carnaval, Maron woodcarving and Caribbean music and dance - to give Guiana its decidedly non-Latin air.

Events

Festive Carnaval is the highlight of the calendar, as outrageous Caribbean-style parades and parties are fused with a certain French savoir faire. Usually held in late February, Carnaval features festivities every weekend from Epiphany and for four days solid before Ash Wednesday. The best place to experience the events of Carnaval is Cayenne.

Facts for the Traveler

Visas: All visitors except EU nationals require a visa.
Health risks: Cholera, dengue fever, hepatitis, malaria, typhoid, yellow fever
Time: GMT/UTC minus 3 hours
Electricity: 220/127V, 50Hz
Weights & measures: Metric (see the conversion table.)

Money & Costs

Currency: French franc (FF)

Relative costs:

Budget room: US$25-50
Moderate hotel: US$50-100
Top-end hotel: US$100 and upwards
Budget meal: US$2-7
Moderate restaurant meal: US$7-20
Top-end restaurant meal: US$20 and upwards

French Guiana is expensive, with costs comparable to those in France; even diehard budget travelers will have a tough time getting by on less than US$45 per day. If restaurant meals and the occasional warm shower fit into your plan, count on spending close to US$100 per day. Transportation, especially to Guiana's interior, is very expensive.

It's easy to change US dollars cash or travelers' checks in Cayenne, but the rates are about 5% lower than official published rates, so bring some francs with you. Major credit cards are widely accepted, and cash advances are easy to get at an ATM (guichet automatique) - the ATMs at post offices are on the Plus and Cirrus networks.

When to Go

French Guiana is a tropical country with a serious rainy season. While the July to December 'dry' period may be the most comfortable time to go, Carnaval - usually held in late February - is French Guiana's greatest cultural attraction. August to November is the best time for jaunts into the jungle, while the leatherback turtles come out near Mana between April and September.

Attractions

Cayenne

French Guiana's capital has a relaxed tropical ambiance. It's located at the western end of a small, hilly peninsula between the Cayenne and Mahury rivers on the Atlantic coast and is the country's major port. The liveliest area is the Place de Palmistes at the northwest end of town, where there are many cafes and outdoor food stalls; the oldest area is the Place Grenoble to the west, which is home to most of the town's public buildings. Avenue du Général de Gaulle is the main commercial street.

The remains of the 17th-century Fort Cépérou may not look like much, but the views of the town, the port and the Cayenne River make a visit worthwhile. The Musée Départemental has interesting exhibits on indigenous peoples, colonial history and the penal colony. Cayenne's main vegetable market is on Place Victor Schoelcher, named after the man most responsible for ending slavery in French Guiana. The misleadingly named Village Chinois (Chinatown) has a fish market and Asian (mainly Javanese) food stalls. Some of the best music is in small clubs in Village Chinois, nicknamed 'Chicago.' Cayenne's best beach is at Rémire-Montjoly, 10km (6mi) southeast of town, where you'll also find the historical ruins of Fort Diamant and an early colonial sugar mill.

Kourou

Situated on the west bank of the Kourou River, 65km (40mi) west of Cayenne, Kourou used to be little more than a moribund penal settlement. These days, thanks to the influence of the European space program, it has rocketed from the 19th century straight into the 21st. It's worth visiting the town and touring the Centre Spatial Guyanais to witness this collision of worlds.

Currently, three separate organizations operate here - the Agence Spatiale Européenne (European Space Agency), the Centre National d'Études Spatiales (French Space Agency) and Arianespace (a private commercial enterprise developing the Ariane rocket). Between them, they comprise about 15% of the country's economic activity, employ about 1000 people and conduct eight or nine launches per year.

Îles du Salut

Best known for the notoriously brutal penal colony on Devil's Island, the Îles du Salut (Salvation Islands) are 15km (9mi) north of Kourou in choppy, shark-infested waters. Ironically, in the 18th century, colonists from the fever-decimated mainland regarded the breezy mosquito-free islands as a haven from disease. Later, the infamous islands supported a convict population of almost 2000. Île Royale, the largest of the three islands, was the administrative headquarters for the prison settlement. Nearby Île St Joseph was reserved for solitary confinement. Île du Diable (Devil's Island), a tiny islet now covered with coconut palms, was home to the bulk of the prisoners. Today, the atmospheric ruins are the islands' main attraction, but their abundant wildlife - including macaws, agoutis and sea turtles - provides another fine reason to visit. The Îles du Salut are accessible by boat from Kourou.

St Laurent du Maroni

Once a reception camp for newly arrived convicts, St Laurent retains some picturesque colonial buildings and a certain backwater charm. The Camp de la Transportation has grim reminders of the harshness of life in the penal colony, including cells and shackles.

St Laurent is on the east bank of the Maroni (Marowijne) River, which forms the border with Suriname. You can arrange boat trips up the river to visit the area's Maron and Amerindian settlements.

Off the Beaten Track

Cacao

This village of Hmong refugees, transplanted from Laos to the American tropics in the 1970s, lies some 75km (50mi) west of the Cayenne-Régina paved highway. The fascinating Sunday market held here features Hmong embroidery and weaving and delicious local noodle soups.

Kaw

This is one of French Guiana's most accessible wildlife areas, but it's still well off the beaten track. Some 65km (40mi) southeast of Cayenne, Kaw is reached by paved and dirt highway, then by launch across the Kaw River, or by catching a launch downstream from Régina. The abundant marshes in the area are home to a variety of bird life as well as plenty of caimans, a smaller relative of the American alligator. Basic lodging is available.

Activities

Surfing, windsurfing and sailing are possible on the beaches near Cayenne and Kourou, but there are few facilities of any kind, so try to befriend a local. Canoe trips on Gabrielle Creek can be arranged at Dacca, a Laotian village near Roura. River trips on the Maroni River can be arranged from St Laurent du Maroni. Kaw is a good place for bird watching, and you can see leatherback turtles near Mana between April and September. There is a hiking trail from Rémire-Montjoly to the top of Montagne du Mahury. The forested interior has great potential for ecotourism, though trips are expensive.

Getting There & Away

Not surprisingly, French Guiana has decent air links with Europe, especially France. Within South America, there are flights to Brazil, Ecuador, Suriname and Venezuela. Flights to the US are mostly to Miami via Guadeloupe and Martinique. International departure tax is about US$20, except for flights to France, which are regarded as domestic and have no departure tax.

It's possible to cross over to Suriname from St Laurent du Maroni by taking the passenger ferry to Albina. From there, there are road connections to Suriname's capital, Paramaribo. There are also launches from Guiana's St Georges to Oiapoque in Brazil, but first you'll have to fly from Cayenne to St Georges.

Getting Around

Air Guyane has scheduled flights to St Georges, Régina, Saül and Maripasoula from Cayenne. There's daily bus service from Cayenne to St Laurent du Maroni via Kourou, Sinnamary and Iracoubo. Taxis colectifs (minibuses), which are faster, much more comfortable and only slightly more expensive, run along the same route. Cars and motorcycles can be rented in Cayenne, Kourou and St Laurent. River transport into the interior is possible, but unless you take an expensive tour it requires patience and good timing.

Because private cars are numerous and roads are fairly good, hitching is a realistic - though never entirely safe - alternative. Competition is fierce in certain areas, such as the highway to Kourou on the outskirts of Cayenne.

In Cayenne, local buses service the beach areas of Rémire-Montjoly, but general public transport is limited, so you may need a taxi. Buses don't run on Sundays.

Cayenne-Rochambeau international airport is 16km (10mi) southwest of Cayenne. Taxis to/from the airport are available. If you're leaving French Guiana and have light luggage, a far-cheaper option is to take a taxi colectif to Matoury and walk the remaining 5km (3mi).

Lonely Planet Guides

South America on a shoestring
French phrasebook

Travelers' Reports

Click here for the latest (but unverified) travelers' reports on French Guiana

On-line Info

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