There's something to be said for a country which tries to outlaw ties and baseball caps. Despite being firmly tied to the USA's economic and political apron strings, Micronesia is doggedly hanging on to its traditional ways - this is a country where men flaunt their loincloths and stone coins still have currency. The Micronesians are proud of their past, especially since they were navigating the Pacific before Columbus was a glint in Queen Isabella's eye. The laid-back islands have some of the world's best wreck diving, and are considered an untouristed haven for beach bunnies and scuba groovers.
Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Federated States of Micronesia
Area: 274 sq mi (702 sq km)
Population: 125,400
Capital city: Palikir (Pohnpei)
People: Micronesians, Polynesians, expats
Languages: English, Chuukese, Pohnpeian, Yapese, Kosraean
Religion: Roman Catholic 50%, Protestant 47%
Government: Constitutional government in free association with USA
President: Jacob Nena
Environment
Micronesia means small islands, and that's exactly what they are. The Federated States of Micronesia are made up of four island groups - Yap, Chuuk, Pohnpei and Kosrae - located in the eastern half of the Pacific Ocean. They're roughly 3000 miles (5000km) west of Hawaii, 2000 miles (3000km) east of the Philippines and 1000 miles (1500km) north of Papua New Guinea. Although they cover an ocean expanse five times the size of France, the total land mass of the 607 islands is less than the size of an average US city, and many world maps don't even bother marking them. Pohnpei occupies nearly half the country's land area, with the rest almost equally divided between the other three states. The islands of Pohnpei, Kosrae and Chuuk are high volcanic islands, while Yap is a raised part of the Asian continental shelf. Don't expect coconut palm-fringed coral atolls - these islands are more like the volcanic islands of Hawaii, with fertile soils, lush vegetation and abundant water.
The only land mammals native to Micronesia are bats. You'll see fruit bats, with wingspans of up to 3ft (1m), at dusk on most of the islands. There's a few Asian sambar deer left on Pohnpei, but you're unlikely to see one. There are also huge monitor lizards (which grow up to 6ft (2m) long), and cute little geckoes and skinks, but no snakes. The most common fauna are insects, and you'll be sure to run into plenty of mosquitoes, beach gnats and cockroaches.
What with all the water around, there's plenty of exciting marine life to goggle at. There's a wide range of hard and soft corals, anemones, sponges, whales, porpoises and shellfish, including the giant tridacna clam. A few species of sea turtle lay their eggs on the beaches of Micronesia, and the islanders use both turtles and eggs for food. The islands are also aflutter with more than 200 species of birds.
Micronesia has a tropical oceanic climate that is consistently warm and humid, with some of the most uniform year-round temperatures in the world. Most days it's around 81°F (27°C) - sometimes it gets up to 90°F (32°C), sometimes it drops to 70°F (21°C). It's a little drier, cooler and breezier between December and March than it is the rest of the year. The wettest months are April and May - not the months to go camping in Pohnpei's interior, which is one of the rainiest places on earth. From July to November the humidity can be oppressive. Typhoon season is between August and December.
History
The most popular theory of Micronesian history holds that the first settlers canoed here from the Philippines and Indonesia, pulling their outriggers up on the sands of Yap between 4000 and 2000 BC. Much later, voyagers from Melanesia worked their way from Kosrae to Pohnpei, Chuuk and Yap. Interestingly enough, no Micronesian people have legends telling of their life before they got to the islands. The early Micronesians had no metals and worked mainly in stone - many impressive carvings have been left by these cultures. They were also superb ocean navigators and had a rich oral history, which was largely destroyed by European invasion.
In 1521, Ferdinand Magellan sailed past Micronesia on his way around the world, and in the following decades the islands were used as a stopover by expeditions on their way to the Spice Islands. Because they were a bit low on European-style wealth, the islands didn't attract much attention during this period. It wasn't until 1817 that Europeans started to seriously chart Micronesia. British whalers started arriving in the 1800s, followed closely by American whalers. Not exactly the cream of society, the whaling crews often harassed and killed the islanders, with the islanders frequently replying in kind. Whalers brought venereal diseases, as well as other scourges like the flu and measles - in 1854 a smallpox epidemic killed 50% of Pohnpei's population. During the whaling period Kosrae's population dropped from 6000 to 300.
Whalers were followed by Protestant missionaries, who imposed Western clothing, language and laws along with their religion. In 1899 Germany tried to catch up in the imperialist race by purchasing Micronesia from the Spanish. The Germans planned to make a mint from copra production. Micronesians were encouraged to plant coconuts and work for the new colonists - some were forcibly transported from their islands to the plantations, while communally-held land was appropriated and handed over to private investors.
When WWI began, Germany fled Micronesia and the Japanese waltzed in. Japan developed the infrastructure and administration necessary to annexe Micronesia, and in 1920 the League of Nations gave it a mandate over the islands. The Japanese aimed to make Micronesia a mirror of their homeland, installing Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, geisha houses and public baths. Administrative centres became little Tokyos. Eventually Japanese outnumbered Micronesians, and the islands' social infrastructure became geared to their needs, with Micronesians treated as second-class citizens. Although Micronesia was largely a resource for the Japanese, the colonial power created a strong economy and a high level of agricultural activity.
On 7 December 1941 Japan bombed Pearl Harbor, but it also took possession of Guam, just north of Micronesia. It wasn't until February 1944 that the USA retaliated with an attack on Chuuk Lagoon, the Japanese fleet's most important base in the central Pacific. Over 200,000 tons of equipment was sunk over two days, and the USA neutralised the base. Fighting was heavy in Micronesia and surrounding islands over the coming months, with particularly long and brutal battles taking place in the Marianas, to the north, and Palau, to the west. The war destroyed almost all the infrastructure built by the Japanese, and a great many Micronesians were caught in the crossfire, although history tends to ignore them.
When the war ended the occupation continued, with the Americans taking over from the Japanese. The US Navy took command of the islands and sealed them off to visitors - the Yanks had plans for Micronesia. The Marshall Islands, Micronesia's eastern neighbours, were given the happy task of playing nuclear guinea pig. Between 1946 and 1958, 66 bombs were exploded over the islands, doing wonders for the Marshallese gene pool. In 1947, the UN set up a Trust Territory in the Pacific, taking in Chuuk, Kosrae, Pohnpei and Yap. The USA was given administrative rights over the islands, setting up a series of military bases and preventing anyone else from doing the same. Throughout this period Micronesia remained under US military control.
Although America was supposed to prepare the Micronesians for self-government, they preferred a combination of neglect and increased dependency. The economy relied entirely on government services and money flowing from the USA, and had absolutely no industrial or agricultural basis. In 1965 America agreed to form a Congress of Micronesia - a body elected by islanders to determine the islands' future - but executive control remained with the US High Commissioner. And, just in case, the CIA bugged the Congress' offices.
The arrival of a whole bunch of idealistic young Peace Corps volunteers in 1966 did nothing for the US cause. Although they were supposed to spread the word about the wonders of American society, they ended up educating the Micronesians about their legal and social rights, thereby sparking off serious moves towards independence. In July 1978, Chuuk, Kosrae, Pohnpei and Yap voted to share a constitution, and in May 1979 they became the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM). Under a 15 year compact signed with the USA in 1982, Micronesia agreed to let the US control its relations with other countries and maintain its exclusive military access to the islands. In turn, the US guaranteed annual funding. The compact was officially implemented in 1986. In 1991 the FSM was admitted to the United Nations. In 1997 president Bailey Olter suffered a stroke; he was replaced by his vice president, Jacob Nena.
Economic Profile
GDP: US$210 million
GDP per head: US$1700
Annual growth: 1.4%
Inflation: 4%
Major industries: Copra, fishing, tourism - most earnings come from US aid.
Major trading partners: USA, Japan
Culture
Micronesian societies are made up of clan groupings, with descent traced through the mother (except on Yap, where descent is patrilineal). The head clan on each island can trace its lineage back to the island's original settlers. Clan groupings extend across islands, and Micronesians usually pop in to visit other clan members when they're in the neighbourhood. Extended families are the norm, and most households include grandparents, cousins, children and adopted hangers-on. If one member of the household gets a good job, there's a fair chance the family will extend even further.
Traditional dancing is important throughout Micronesia but is especially highly valued on Yap, the island most reluctant to adopt Western ways. The shuffling and the shaking is done in groups, with men and women dancing separately, and is often accompanied by unison chanting. Although most dancing takes place at private village events on Pohnpei, there are occasional performances for tourists.
Western architecture has made substantial inroads, but you can still see a few examples of local building in Micronesia. Traditional community structures were constructed from planks of native mahogany with roofs of thatched nipa palm. Micronesia also has a strong tradition of canoe building. Some of the world's greatest early navigators came from the islands, using canoes much like the ones made today. The canoes have a single outrigger, and are generally made from a hollowed breadfruit tree. Larger ocean-going vessels are made of planks bound together with coconut husk fibres - some of these canoes are 100ft (30m) long.
Before the arrival of the almighty greenback, most Micronesians did their trading with beads, shells and clams. The burly people of Yap, however, preferred to lug their loose change around in the form of rai, carved pieces of stone up to 12ft (4m) in diameter and weighing as much as 5 tons (4535kg). The stones were carved into round discs with a hole through the centre. Although they're not 'minted' anymore, you can still see money 'banks' - village paths lined with rai - around Yap.
Breadfruit and seafood are staples on all the islands, though most restaurants offer a combination of American and Japanese fare. Pohnpeians are particularly big on yams, and serve dog at traditional feasts. The use of sakau, a narcotic drink made from the roots of pepper shrubs, is huge on Pohnpei, where sakau bars outnumber other bars two-to-one. Oppot is a traditional Chuukese specialty, made by filling a pit with alternating layers of ripe breadfruit and banana leaves, covering it with rocks and then pungently leaving it for months, or even years, before eating. Everyone in Yap chews buw (betel nut), sometimes adding tobacco or tobacco soaked in vodka to the red menace.
Events
Micronesia celebrates most of the standard western holidays: Christmas, New Year's Day and the American staple, Thanksgiving. In addition to FSM Constitution Day, on 10 May, and FSM Independence Day, on 3 November, each of the island groups celebrates its own national days. Kosrae's big holiday is Liberation Day, on 8 September, marking the American defeat of Japan on the islands at the end of WWII. Celebrations include sports competitions and canoe races. Christmas on Kosrae is a bit of a treat, with formation marching and singing competitions - Kosraen church choirs can belt out a spectacular tune - and a grand feast open to all.
Yap's big shindig is Yap Day, in the first week of March, with plenty of colourful ceremonial dancing and sporting events. Mitmits are held throughout the year: they're all-out feasts accompanied by the liberal distribution of gifts and ceremonial singing and dancing. One village holds a mitmit for another village, which reciprocates the following year.
Facts for the Traveller
Visas: Visas are not required for tourist visits up to 30 days. Your 30 days start afresh each time you move to a different island group. US citizens can extend their permit for up to a year.
Health risks: Typhoid
Time: GMT/UTC plus 10 hours in Yap and Chuuk; GMT/UTC plus 11 hours in Pohnpei and Kosrae
Electricity: 110/120V, 60Hz
Weights & measures: Imperial (see conversion
table)
Money & Costs
Currency: US dollar
Relative costs:
- Budget room: US$40-60
- Moderate hotel: US$60-90
- Top-end hotel: US$90 and upwards
- Budget meal: US$5-10
- Moderate restaurant meal: US$10-20
- Top-end restaurant meal: US$20 and upwards
In part because the islands are so spread out, and in part because the economy is reliant upon imported items, Micronesia can be an expensive place to travel. Your airfare will be the biggest outlay, but accommodation is also pretty expensive - there's not much in the way of budget rooms, and if you want to stay at a beach resort you'll be shelling out about US$150 a night. If you stick to local foods, public transport and rustic accommodation, you'll still need to budget close to US$100 a day. Travelling comfortably costs around US$150 a day; US$200 if you rent a car or go diving.
US dollars are the official currency in Micronesia, and there's really no point bringing anything else. US dollar travellers' cheques are accepted just about everywhere, with most large hotels, restaurants and shops accepting them as cash. There are no commercial banks on Chuuk or Kosrae, so make sure you've got enough cash to get by before you visit these areas. Credit cards are widely accepted on Pohnpei and Kosrae, and they're making inroads on Chuuk and Yap.
Tipping 10% to 15% is catching on in Pohnpei but, despite the American influence, it's not really the done thing elsewhere in Micronesia. Most things are sold with a fixed price, although there are a few fruit markets where you could give your haggling skills a polish. Don't expect miracles.
When to Go
Go to Micronesia whenever the boss gives you time off. The temperature hovers around a balmy 81°F (27°C) all year, so don't worry about the weather. If it's a little more humid between July and November, at least you're never far from a cooling dip in the ocean. The islands are off the tourist trail so there's no distinct high season and few visitors at any time of year.
Kosrae
Kosrae is one of the least spoiled and least developed areas in Micronesia, a laid-back place that retains an air of innocence. The main island measures 42 sq miles (109 sq km) and is volcanic with an interior of uncharted rainforests, a pristine fringing reef and a coast which is a mix of sandy beaches and mangrove swamps. The people are casual and unpretentious and, given that it's unusual to have more than about a dozen visitors at a time on the island, the residents still take a friendly interest when someone new is in town.
Impressive ruins on the connected island of Lelu date from around the 14th century when Kosrae's chief's were the dominant regional power. Though the outskirts of the massive royal city have been torn down, the remaining ruins still give the feeling of being in an ancient, hidden city, the kind of isolated setting you might imagine trekking hours through dense jungle to find. Lelu Hill, the island's high point, has a scattering of caves and tunnels used by the Japanese in WWII.
Kosrae has unspoiled coral reefs close to shore suitable for both walk-in and boat diving. Underwater visibility can easily be 100ft (30m), and in summer as much as 200ft (60m). The Blue Hole in Lelu harbours coral heads, lionfish, stingrays and barracuda. In the south, a nice spot is Hiroshi's Point, a drift dive that takes in beautiful soft corals and hammerhead sharks. There's an American search plane in about 60ft (20m) of water at the mouth of Lelu Harbor. Also in the vicinity are two Japanese boats and the remains of a whaling ship.
Accommodation in Kosrae is limited to a scattered handful of small and not particularly cheap hotels. Camping is a fairly foreign concept, but amenable locals will probably help you arrange somewhere to pitch a tent. Flights between Guam and Honolulu generally make a free stopover in Kosrae and there are also island-hopping flights to Pohnpei and the neighbouring Marshall Islands' Majuro Atoll.
Pohnpei, with its lush vegetation, jungle hillsides and flowering hibiscus, fits the typical South Sea island image, albeit a wet one. The main island is the largest in the Federated States of Micronesia, measuring 129 sq miles (334 sq km). It's roughly circular in shape, edged with coves and jutting peninsulas. The coastline is mainly tidal flats and mangrove flats, but there are dozens of small islands with lovely beaches in the lagoon between Pohnpei Island and the surrounding reef.
The ancient stone city of Nan Madol, abandoned on nearly 100 artificial islets off the south-eastern coast, is Micronesia's best known archaeological site. Nan Madol was built from stacked basalt pillars during the tyrannical Saudeleur dynasty which peaked in the 13th century. Nan Douwas is the largest structure still standing: the outer walls of the compound stand 25ft (8m) and the inner compound contains burial crypts. Although many of Nan Madol's temples, vaults, bathing areas and pools have collapsed, the site still has immense dramatic impact. Pohnpei's boldest natural landmark is the scenic Sokehs Rock, a 500ft (180m) sheer basalt cliff face that can be climbed by those who like a challenge.
The main town of Kolonia is relatively large by island standards, yet it retains a small-town character. Palikir, 5 miles (8km) away, is the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia. Pohnpei's airport and most of the island's hotels and restaurants are in Kolonia. There are frequent flights from Honolulu and Guam, as well as from other Micronesian airports.
Chuuk (formerly Truk) is colourful, lively and rough around the edges. It comprises 15 main islands, 92 outer islands and over 80 islets in the Chuuk Lagoon. Its biggest drawing cards are its sunken wrecks, and its most enthusiastic visitors are divers. A whole Japanese fleet rests on the lagoon floor, evidence of the largest naval loss in history. Each wreck is a time capsule - some are upright, some intact, some in pieces. The holds are full of guns and trucks and fighter planes, the dining areas are littered with dishes, silverware and sake bottles, and the skeletal remains of the perished crews lie 'buried' at sea.
Back on dry land, Chuuk's houses are commonly painted in several bright contrasting tones and village life proceeds amongst them at a leisurely pace. On hot days village women sit in streams doing laundry and young children run around naked. You might find that sitting on Weno, the main island, and watching the sun set behind the Faichuk Islands in the western lagoon, is as energetic as you want things to get. Most accommodation options are on Weno, but there are lodge-style places on other islands. Weno is connected with Pohnpei and Guam on the island-hopper air-routes.
Yap, the land of giant stone money, is Micronesia's most traditional district. Most people dress in Western clothes but a fair number of men and boys wear bright coloured loincloths and some of the women wear only woven hibiscus skirts. Everyone has a bulge of betel nut in their cheek.
Yap Proper consists of four islands - Yap, Tomil-Gagil, Map and Rumung. Unlike other high islands in Micronesia which are volcanic in origin, Yap Proper was formed by land upheavals of the Asian continental shelf. Consequently, the landscape is more rolling hills and dales than mountain peaks and plunging valleys. Of the 134 outer islands many are mere strands of coral and sand rising precariously above the water. Typhoons have been known to wash an entire island into the sea.
The island's communities are connected by centuries-old stone footpaths, and village houses are still built in the elaborate, traditional style with wood, thatch, rope and bamboo. It's a society where the caste system survives and where village chiefs still have as much clout as elected public officials. Stone money is used for some traditional exchanges, though the US dollar settles most commonplace transactions. Note that the Yapese are offended by tourists who brazenly point cameras at them, though they are receptive to travellers who respect their customs and culture.
Accommodation in Yap ranges from cheap guesthouses in traditional villages to conventional tourist hotels. Yap is accessible by air via Guam and Palau.
Off the Beaten Track
Nukuoro Atoll
Nukuoro is a real haven. One of Pohnpei's outer atolls, it comprises 42 tiny islets formed in a near-perfect circle around a lagoon 4 miles (6km) in diameter. The Polynesian inhabitants are very welcoming, making this a fine place to spend some time just lazing around on beaches, picking up seashells and playing with island children. There is a guesthouse on the pier. There's no airport on Nukuoro; an irregular passenger boat passes about once a month.
Woleai Atoll
Woleai, one of Yap's outer islands, has an appealingly simple lifestyle, friendly people and beautiful beaches. About 800 people live on five of Woleai's 22 islets, some of which are clustered together and joined at low tide by sand bars. Woleai holds firmly onto its traditional ways: canoes are favoured over motorboats, and there are rules against wearing T-shirts, pants, baseball caps and other Western clothing. While foreign visitors are exempt from clothing regulations, it aids your acceptance if you endeavour to wear traditional dress.
There are no formal commercial places to stay, but camping or homestays can usually be arranged. Woleai is accessible by plane from Yap or by slow and circuitous boat. Permission is necessary to visit Woleai (and Yap's other outer islands): make a request to the Special Assistant for Outer Islands Affairs in Colonia, Yap, at least a month before you hope to visit.
The Western Islands, Chuuk's most remote and traditional, share close ties with the outer islands of Yap. Men still wear bright loincloths and the women wear only woven fibre or grass skirts. Houses are made of thatch, subsistence comes from the sea and men continue to sail single-hulled outrigger canoes carved from breadfruit logs, relying on centuries-old navigational methods to get around.
There are no guesthouses on any of the islands, but the governor's office on Weno can sometimes help with accommodation arrangements. There are flights from Weno to Ulul, the main island; a couple of field trip ships also visit Ulul irregularly.
The Mortlocks stretch about 180 miles (290km) south-east from Chuuk Lagoon. The Mortlockese are gentle, easy-going people and are more Westernised in their dress than other outer islanders. They also tend to be a more religious bunch, perhaps because this was where Christian missionaries established Chuuk's first church. The introduction of Christianity hasn't halted the production of traditional Mortlockese masks of hibiscus wood. Once worn by men during battle and to ward off evil spirits, they are now carved for Chuuk's tourist trade.
For visitors, the handiest destination in the Mortlocks is Satawan Atoll, which has both boat and air connections to Weno. There are a few simple and perfectly adequate cottages for visitors staying overnight.
Activities
What Micronesia lacks in land it more than makes up for in water. Some of the region's most spectacular scenery is underwater, and the traveller who never looks below the surface is missing out on some incredible sights. What's more, the balmy water temperature means you won't even need a wetsuit. Divers the world over know about Chuuk's underwater wreck museum; more than 60 Japanese ships, as well as numerous planes, were sunk here during WWII, and most are still as they were at the time they hit the bottom. There are also some shallower wrecks suitable for snorkellers. Diving off Yap is enlivened by its schools of manta rays.
There's not much space for walking in Micronesia, but there's some decent hiking on Tofol, Kosrae. The hike to the top of Mt Finkol takes 8 to 10 hours, and is a strenuous climb through rivers and mud. When you get to the top you can see all three of Kosrae's islands. Pohnpei's jungle interior also makes for some pretty good treks.
Getting There & Away
The main gateways into Micronesia are Honolulu and Guam (flights arrive there from the USA, Australia and Asia), but there are also direct flights to Pohnpei and Kosrae from the South Pacific. A Circle Micronesia air pass originating in Los Angeles or San Francisco, or a Visit Micronesia pass originating in Guam, will let you hop around the islands.
Getting Around
Pohnpei, Chuuk, Yap and Kosrae are linked by air, and there are small airstrips on just about every other island in Micronesia. The major islands have extensive road systems. Most roads are unpaved, with the main drag in town and the road to the airstrip being notable exceptions. Yap is the only island with any sort of public bus system - school buses will take visitors between Colonia and outlying villages twice a day. Weno Island (Chuuk) has an efficient share taxi system, while Pohnpei runs minivan taxis. Yap has private taxis. You really need to rent a car - at around US$50 a day - if you want to have a good look around the larger islands.
Boat is the cheapest means of travel between islands. Chuuk has an extensive weekday system of commuter boats between its islands, and private speedboats do short runs throughout Micronesia. Field trip ships link district centres with the outer islands - they're primarily cargo boats, but they're a good, cheap way to get around, with the added bonus that you'll meet a lot of locals. The trips may take several days and can be pretty grubby and tiring.
Recommended Reading
- Kosrae: The Sleeping Lady Awakens, by Harvey Gordon Segal, is an insightful human and natural history of Kosrae.
- A Guide to Pohnpei - An Island Argosy, by Gene Ashby, says just about everything there is to say about Pohnpei.
- Micronesia: Winds of Change, edited by Francis X Hezel, is a colourful, anecdotal history of the islands covering the period 1521-1951.
- Micronesia: a Trust Betrayed, by Donald McHenry, is an insightful history of the Trust Territory and the events leading up to the Compacts of Free Association.
- Islands Islands: A Special Good, by Bernadette V Wehrly, is a collection of poems, songs and legends. For more legends, try Never & Always, compiled by Gene Ashby.
- A study of Micronesia's rich history of navigation, We, the Navigators, by David Lewis, is a comprehensive work.
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