 Facts at a Glance
Area: 136 sq mi (352 sq km)
Population: 1.6 million
Elevation: 28ft (9m)
State: Pennsylvania
Time Zone: Eastern Time (GMT/UTC minus 5 hours)
Telephone area code: 215
 History
In March 1681, England's King Charles II granted William Penn a charter to a parcel of land west of the Delaware River. Charles dubbed the area 'Penn' in honor of William's father, with Penn the Younger adding '-sylvania,' meaning 'woodlands.' Brimming with pacifist Quaker idealism, Penn regarded his colony as a 'holy experiment' and ensured as its governor and proprietor that its laws respected religious freedom and liberal government. Penn chose Philadelphia as the capital of Pennsylvania in 1682, optimistically naming it after the Greek for 'brotherly love.' A survivor of London's Great Fire of 1666, he made sure the city's design included a grid system with wide streets, not the narrow, winding maze that caused so much havoc in England's capital. This format was to become the inspiration for most American cities.
Philadelphia quickly grew to become the second largest city (after London) in the British empire, before ceding that title to New York City. Opposition to British policy in the colonies became seated in the city, where colonial leaders would meet to plan their course of action. The result was the Declaration of Independence, and in 1790 Philadelphia became the temporary capital of the new United States before Washington DC got the job in 1800. The US Constitution was drawn up and first read here in 1786. Often led by the multitalented Benjamin Franklin, Philadelphia became a center for developments in the world of arts and science.
Between 1793 and 1820, Philadelphia suffered five yellow-fever epidemics, which killed thousands but led to the construction of the US's first city water system. Philadelphia's fortunes declined in the 19th century, as New York took over as the nation's cultural, commercial and industrial center. Philly never regained the stature of its early years, despite continued cultural and educational innovation, commerce and shipbuilding, and a brief boomlet following WWII.
During the mid-20th century, like many American cities, Philadelphia watched much of its middle class forsake the city for the suburbs. The 1970s saw Philly grapple with innercity tensions, typified by the firefights between the police and the paramilitary MOVE group. However, by 1976, lavish plans for the nation's bicentennial had inspired a citywide cleanup and renovation campaign - a restoration that continues today - and the city is now consistently rated among the nation's 'best' in national polls of lifestyle and character.
 When to Go
Philadelphia can get unbearably humid in the summer and freezing cold in the winter, making spring and fall, which are generally characterized by warm days and cool nights, the best time to visit the city. If you can stand the crowds, Philadelphia comes alive with patriotic frenzy and fireworks each 4 July (Independence Day).
 Orientation
Philadelphia sits on the west bank of the Delaware River in southeastern Pennsylvania near New Jersey's western border. New York City is a 2 to 3 hour bus ride north. Most of the central Philadelphia area lies between the Delaware River, which runs north and south through town, and the Schuylkill River, a tributary, in the west.
Philadelphia is easy to get around. It's laid out in a grid and divided into four quadrants, each with its own park; most of the major sights and accommodations are within walking distance or a short bus ride or drive from each other. Market St bisects the city east and west; Broad St divides it north and south. Most visitors to the city spend their time in historic Old City and Center City, which are laid out around public squares (Penn, Franklin, Washington, Rittenhouse and Logan) with City Hall more or less in the middle. The other main areas of interest are University City (in West Philadelphia), Fairmount Park (northwest of downtown) and South Philadelphia.
Philadelphia International Airport is 5 miles (8km) southwest of Center City. The Amtrak train station is on 30th St in University City beside the Schuylkill River. The Greyhound bus terminal and NJ Transit station are both in Center City. A ferry service operates from Penn's Landing in Old City across the Delaware River to nearby Camden, New Jersey.
 Events
Mummers Parade on New Year's Day sees 30,000 men wearing sequins, feathers, makeup and risqué costumes spectacularly strut their way around town accompanied by accordions and glockenspiels. The event's been taking place since the 1700s. Penn Relays in April is one of the world's oldest, largest and best amateur athletic carnivals, held at the University of Pennsylvania. The Jambalaya Jam in May is a 3 day celebration of Creole and Cajun food and New Orleans music at Penn's Landing. You better believe that the birthplace of the Declaration of Independence gets down on Independence Day; the Philadelphia Freedom Festival sets off fireworks, parades and concerts during the first week of July.
 Attractions
Independence National Historic Park
Independence Park is an L-shaped area west of the Delaware River that features Philadelphia's most renowned historical sites. Called the birthplace of American government, Independence Hall was built between 1732 and 1756 as Pennsylvania State House, the colony's headquarters. One of the country's best examples of Georgian architecture, its simple, understated lines also show the Quaker influence of Philadelphia's early days. The Second Continental Congress later met here from 1775 to 1783. The Assembly Room is where the delegates from the 13 colonies met to approve the Declaration of Independence on 4 July 1776; where the design of the US flag was agreed upon in 1777; where the Articles of the Confederation were drafted in 1781; and where the Constitutional Convention was held in 1787, producing the US Constitution.
Beside Pennsylvania State House is Congress Hall, where the US Congress met between 1790 and 1800 when Philadelphia was the nation's capital. Here, the Bill of Rights and the first 10 amendments were added to the Constitution, the US Mint was established, George Washington was inaugurated for his second term and Kentucky, Tennessee and Vermont were admitted to the Union. Nearby, Independence Square is where the Declaration of Independence was read publicly for the first time on 8 July 1776.
Liberty Bell Pavilion is Philadelphia's top tourist attraction. Commissioned to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Charter of Privileges (Pennsylvania's constitution, enacted in 1701 by William Penn) this 2080lb (936kg) bronze bell's inscription reads: 'Proclaim liberty through all the land, to all the inhabitants thereof.' The bell was secured in the belfry of Independence Hall and tolled on important occasions, most notably the first public reading of the Declaration of Independence in Independence Square. The bell became badly cracked during the 19th century; despite initial repairs it eventually became unusable in 1846 after tolling for George Washington's birthday.
Near to Independence Hall is Franklin Court, Ben Franklin's home and workplace. An underground museum on the site displays Franklin's various inventions, including a heat-efficient stove to warm houses. The National Portrait Gallery was the second bank of the US until 1836, when it was dissolved by President Andrew Jackson. It now houses several pieces of art by Charles Wilson Peale, America's top portraitist at the time of the American Revolution. Other exhibits include a copy of the first edition of the Declaration of Independence and early prints of Philadelphia from when it was the nation's capital.
Old City
Old City was Philadelphia in the city's early days. The face-lifted Elfreth's Alley is believed to be America's oldest residential street with colonial-style houses dating back to 1728. The Betsy Ross House is also in Old City. Some uncertainty surrounds Betsy Griscom Ross, an 18th-century seamstress. Although it's now known that she didn't design the American flag, she may or may not have sewn the first US flag for the early federal government. This is the house where she lived and where you can see her sewing machine and other tools. The US Mint in Old City is the world's largest.
The National Museum of American Jewish History and Afro-American Historical & Cultural Museum contain some of the best collections in the country detailing the role of Jews and African Americans in American history. Congregation Mikveh Israel was founded in 1740 in Old City and is the second oldest congregation in the US. It's one of only four synagogues in the world that uses the Sephardic Rite.
Old City is the far mideastern section of Philadelphia along the Delaware River and confined within Walnut and Vine Sts and Front and 6th Sts.
South Philadelphia
South Philadelphia has been settled by succeeding waves of immigrants: from the Dutch and Swedish settlers of the 17th century, through the Jewish and Italian arrivals in the 19th and early 20th centuries, to the black, Hispanic and Asian settlers of more recent years. The Italian Market is the main attraction and, though still largely Italian, vendors and customers reflect the city's ethnic diversity. If that's not enough, take a peek at the Mario Lanza Museum. Lanza was born Freddie Cocozza in South Philly, where the crooning singer and actor also first studied his craft. Another fine cultural experience is to be had at the Mummers' Museum. Philadelphia's yearly Mummers Parade on New Year's Day sees 30,000 men strut their way around town in sequins, feathers, makeup and risqué get-ups. Exhibits at the museum include some of the extravagant costumes and photos and videos of the parades. The museum also features a digital clock that counts down the days to New Year's Day.
 Off the Beaten Track
Valley Forge National Historic Park
Valley Forge was the site of the US Army's renowned winter encampment from 19 December 1777 to 19 June 1778, while the British occupied Philadelphia (then the capital of the new nation) during the War of Independence. Not a battlefield, the site is held as a symbol of bravery and endurance - 2000 of George Washington's 12,000 troops perished because of freezing temperatures, hunger and disease. Despite such losses, the army was reorganized and emerged to eventually defeat the British. The British withdrew in 1778 after the Articles of Confederation were approved by Congress and Americans made an alliance with the French. Important sights include the National Memorial Arch to the soldiers who endured that winter and the Monument to Patriots of African Descent, a bronze statue honoring the 5000 blacks who died in the war.
Valley Forge is 20 miles (32km) northwest of downtown Philadelphia. You can get there via a 40-minute bus trip from downtown; by car take the Schuylkill Expressway (I-76) west.
Pennsylvania Dutch Country
Pennsylvania Dutch Country is home to a community of Amish, Mennonites and Brethren collectively known as 'Plain People.' They started arriving in the area in the 1720s and are unified on the issues of separation of church and state, a Bible-centered life, voluntary adult membership, the importance of family and community and a 'forgiving love' that translates into conscientious objection to war. The core of the Pennsylvania Dutch region is a string of towns, farms and sights spread out over an area of 20 by 15 miles (32 by 24km). These lie to the east of Lancaster, the area's main city and more or less its western boundary. East of Lancaster, the most visited road is Route 340 (Old Philadelphia Pike), with the towns of Bird-in-Hand and Intercourse. South of this and also running east-west is Route 30 (Lincoln Hwy), which is lined by dairy farms, farm guesthouses and crafts workshops. To get off the beaten track, take any one of the side roads between Routes 30 and 340.
Most Pennsylvania Dutch live on carefully manicured farms, but because of a rising population, urbanization and other outside pressures, many also now work in small-scale industries, producing quilts, furniture and crafts. The Amish refer to anyone outside their community as 'English,' wherever they might be from. Keep in mind that the Amish object to having their photo taken.
The Pennsylvania Dutch Country is a 90 minute drive west of Philadelphia on Route 30. There are daily buses and trains between Lancaster and Philadelphia.
Pocono Mountains
Pocono comes from 'pocohanne,' a Lanape Native American word meaning 'stream between the mountains.' The region is home to over 100 varieties of trees and many rare species of plants and animals. A natural 'four-season' choice for nature, sports and outdoor enthusiasts, it's a heavily touristed area especially on weekends and in the fall when visitors come to see the changing colors of the hardwood trees.
The Delaware Water Gap is a 37 mile (60km) long national recreation area on the border with northwestern New Jersey, which also includes about 25 miles (40km) of the Appalachian Trail. It's full of opportunities to hike, mountain bike, ski, canoe, sail and camp. Bushkill Falls, part of the gap, is a series of eight waterfalls which drop 100ft (30m) over silt-stone and shale.
The Poconos occupy 2400 sq mi (6200 sq km) of Pennsylvania's northeastern corner, bordering New York and New Jersey. Stroudsburg, at the intersection of several highways, is the main commercial center of the Poconos. Buses travel regularly between Stroudsburg and Philadelphia, about a two hour drive away.
 Activities
The huge Fairmount Park is the city's main center for outdoor activities and the world's largest landscaped urban park. With around 100 miles (161km) of jogging and cycling paths and the Schuylkill River and Wissahickon Creek within its borders, the park is popular with city residents looking for a breath of fresh air. Rowing and canoeing are popular on the Schuylkill.
Hiking doesn't get much better than it is in Poconos' Delaware Water Gap, which includes 25 miles (40km) of the Appalachian Trail. The Switchback Gravity Railroad Trail, an abandoned railroad bed in Lehigh Gorge State Park (part of the Poconos) is great for mountain biking. There's good sailing on Mauch Chunk Lake and Lake Wallenpaupeck, both in the Poconos.
 Getting There & Away
Philadelphia's airport, located just 5 miles (8km) southwest of the city, is served by direct flights from Europe, the Caribbean and Canada, with connections to Asia, Africa, South America as well as over 100 destinations in the US.
Buses travel to Philadelphia from New York City, Newark, Atlantic City, Washington DC and even San Francisco (an excruciating 27-hour ride). If you prefer to take a train, Philadelphia is on Amtrak's Northeast Corridor route which runs between Richmond, Virginia, and Boston, Massachusetts, via Washington DC and New York City. There are also trains west to Lancaster, Harrisburg, Pittsburgh and Chicago and south to Florida. NJ Transit has a frequent rail service between Philadelphia and Atlantic City.
Several highways lead through and around Philadelphia, making it easy to come and go by car. From the north and south, the Delaware Expressway (I-95) follows the eastern edge of the city beside the Delaware River, while the Pennsylvania Turnpike (I-276) runs east across the north of the city and over the river to connect with the New Jersey Turnpike. Ferries operate on the Delaware River between Penn's Landing in Philadelphia and Camden, New Jersey.
 Getting Around
Philadelphia International Airport is 5 miles (8km) southwest of the city center. The Southeastern Pennsylvania Transportation System SEPTA runs rail lines from the airport into the city every 30 minutes. Shuttle buses, limousines and taxis also operate between the airport and the city. There are rental car agencies at the airport and in town, but driving isn't recommended in central Philadelphia; parking is difficult and regulations strictly enforced. Most downtown distances are short enough to walk.
SEPTA provides comprehensive transportation service in the city and suburbs, both on rail and bus systems. A trolley bus is a good way to visit many of the sights. Three subway lines travel under the city.
 Recommended Reading
- For a taste of colonial Pennsylvania, check out Edward Bronner's William Penn's Holy Experiment: the Founding of Pennsylvania, 1681-1701 or JE Illick's Colonial Pennsylvania.
- The paperback Philadelphia Almanac, edited by Kenneth Finkel, is replete with facts, figures and tales about the city.
- Philadelphia: a 300 year history is a series of essays on the city's history from 1681 to 1982, edited by Russell E Weigley.
- Miracle at Philadelphia: The Story of the Constitutional Convention, May to September 1787 by Catherine Drinker Bowen is, well, the story of the Constitutional Convention.
- First published in 1899, WEB Du Bois' The Philadelphia Negro: A Social Study functions not only as a landmark example of urban ethnography and early social science, but it's relevance to the city's modern social architecture can be a real eye-opener.
- If you plan on heading out to the Pennsylvania Dutch Country, Amish Society by John Hostatler examines Amish culture, explains their religious beliefs and ceremonies, community and family life, and the tension and interaction with outsiders. Old Order Amish: Their Enduring Way of Life is a photographic account of Amish life.
- In his Race for Justice: Mumia Abu-Jamal's Fight Against the Death Penalty, the ex-Black Panther's attorney, Leonard Weinglass, presents a frighteningly credible case for Abu-Jamal's wrongful conviction of the murder of a Philadelphia policeman.
- Many of Edgar Allan Poe's most famous works, from The Fall of the House of Usher to The Murders in the Rue Morgue, were first published in Philadelphia literary magazines while the author lived in the city.
 Lonely Planet Guides
 Travelers' Reports
 On-line Info
|
