 Facts at a Glance
Population: 470,000
Area: 110 sq miles (275 sq km)
Elevation: 5280ft (1585m)
State: Colorado
Time Zone: Mountain Time (GMT/UTC minus 7 hours)
Telephone area code: 303
 History
Already the bison-hunting grounds of Arapaho and Cheyenne Indians when (mostly luckless) prospectors began arriving in 1859, Denver began its days as little more than a rough-and-tumble gold miners' camp. In an effort to polish the area's image (and bolster his coffers in the process), General William H Larimer shamelessly wooed Kansas Territorial Governor James W Denver into granting Larimer and his partners a township by proposing to name it in the governor's honor. Larimer's bootlicking worked, and the Denver City Township Company set up shop in late 1859 at the confluence of Cherry Creek and the South Platte River.
The area's gold rush - though short-lived - brought a substantial overland freight and passenger business (via horse and wagon) to Denver, whose foothill location was as convenient as any along the Front Range for servicing the Rocky Mountain mining camps. Nevertheless, without water or rail transportation, Denver's overnight rise was unsustainable. Languishing far from the Transcontinental Railroad, which was opened in 1869 through Cheyenne, Denver stagnated until the 105 mile (170km) Denver Pacific line joined it to Cheyenne the following year.
The city's dawdling ascent to prominence was furthered by the arrival of the Kansas Pacific railway line that same year and by a silver rush in the following decade. In 1881, Union Station opened to consolidate passenger traffic for the railroads. The Italian Romanesque landmark burned in 1894 and was replaced with today's Neoclassical station, anchoring 17th St as a center for banks and posh hotels, including the Oxford, Barth and Brown Palace. By the 1890s, the region's population had tripled and Denver had become known as the 'Queen City of the Plains.'
The city's boom continued until 1893, when the Silver Panic laid waste to the city's economy and threw the entire state into a depression. The following year, the discovery of rich gold deposits in Cripple Creek again reversed the trend.
Following the Great Depression, WWII brought jobs at hastily built munitions and chemical warfare plants in and around the city. In 1952, Denver's 12-story height limit was repealed in the downtown area, excepting the historic districts. The Denver skyline now contains some 20 highrises, but many of these suffered during the mid-1980s, when an office-construction boom suddenly turned into a glut. The cycle reversed yet again during the 1990s, as Denver became home to computer, telecommunications and other high-tech firms and service providers, which now dominate the local economy.
Denver International Airport (DIA) opened in 1995 on 53 sq miles (137 sq km) of former grasslands and prairie dog burrows. The first big airport built in America in more than 20 years, the US$4.9 billion facility is now among the nation's busiest.
 When to Go
Depending on what you're after, Denver is a year-round destination. The winter ski season (roughly November through March) lures snow bunnies from around the globe, while drier times see hikers, bikers and climbers heading up, down and around every bump worth bagging. Naturalists will delight in watching dry and comfy autumn paint the landscape with more rusty lemon-yellows than a junkyard in Detroit. And springtime, while typically windy and wet, sees Colorado's oceans of wildflowers burst into bloom.
 Orientation
Denver lies on the flat plains abutting the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, 660 miles (1060km) northwest of Dallas, 900 miles (1450km) west of Chicago and 960 miles (1550km) east of San Francisco. The city's streets and avenues follow a compass-oriented grid pattern outside the diagonal swath of downtown. The State Capitol is on the southeastern edge of downtown. West of the capitol are the Civic Center and the Denver Art Museum. Lower Downtown ('LoDo' to the locals), home to many of Denver's most historic buildings, sits between Larimer Square and Union Station at the northwestern corner of the downtown grid.
The non-navigable South Platte River flows just north of downtown and is lined by trails and roads that snake into the mountains to the southwest. Colfax Ave (Hwy 40), one of the longest streets in the USA, bisects the city on its 40 mile (65km) journey from Strasburg to Golden.
Denver International Airport (DIA) is located 24 miles (40km) northeast of downtown. The downtown Denver Bus Terminal is immediately north of the capitol; trains converge on neoclassical Union Station at the northwestern edge of the downtown grid.
 Attractions
Denver Museum of Natural History
One of the premier natural history museums in the country, this institution was founded at the turn of the century to house the collection of Colorado naturalist Edwin Carter. Museum scientists attracted international attention following their 1926 discovery (near Folsom, New Mexico) of distinctive spear points in association with bones of a bison species extinct for 10,000 years. The discovery proved the existence of humans in the New World about 8000 years earlier than previously assumed. Visitors can see dinosaur fossils like Stegosaurus stenops (the state fossil), a small-headed, armor-plated vegetarian that roamed the state 150 million years ago. Enormous remains of the Nebraska mammoth and long-jawed mastodon are also on display.
The museum is located 3 miles (5km) east of downtown Denver in City Park. Also housed in the complex is an IMAX Theater, a giant-screen movie experience that wows audiences with - of all things - nature documentaries, and the Gates Planetarium, which features a laser light show tour of distant galaxies. Visitors on a hell-bent pace or with short attention spans could also squeeze in a visit to the neighboring Denver Zoo on the same day.
If you're searching for a good sense of what makes Denver America's poster-city for successful redevelopment, start your visit at Larimer Square. Though the idea of festooning renovated turn of the century buildings with strings of 'decorative' lights is questionable, the 1400 block of Larimer St presents a tasty array of distractions. This enclave of stylish shops, restaurants and brewpubs is where the gathering spot for the city's scenesters, running the spectrum from yuppie to punk. If the square's hip clubs keep you going all night, never fear: its cafes are sure to get you started in the morning. Larimer Square is on the southwestern edge of the downtown grid.
Denver Art Museum
Resembling a modern high-rise jail, this mammoth museum houses one of the largest Native American art collections in the world, with work on display from tribes throughout the country. Pieces from thousands of years ago to the present are arranged geographically, emphasizing the connection between cultures. American Western artists are also featured, as well as works from Africa, Asia, Europe and the Pacific. The museum is on the southern fringe of the downtown grid, just south of the Civic Center.
Black American Western Museum & Heritage Center
'We tell it like it was' is the motto of the Black American Western Museum & Heritage Center. Although a few notable African American pioneers arrived at the onset of Colorado's mining boom in the early 1860s, it was after the Civil War that most professional and working-class black people made their mark in the state. Black cowboys were particularly influential, making up almost a third of the Western range workers, but the museum also showcases the contributions of black soldiers, miners, lawyers and politicians. Dedicated to correcting versions of history, the museum is housed in what was the home of Dr Justina Ford, Denver's first black physician, who practiced in the state for half a century. It's located north of downtown in the Five Points neighborhood; the light rail stops right outside.
Red Rocks Park & Amphitheater
In the hills just west of Denver, this 600 acre (243ha) stunner should not be missed - especially if you can attend a starlit performance, nestled between the outdoor amphitheater's 70 million year old rock formations. During the Great Depression, members of the Civilian Conservation Corps built the 9000 seat amphitheater between 400ft (120m) red sandstone rocks to take advantage of the splendid natural acoustics. Every summer, Red Rocks hosts a variety of world class performers. The surrounding parkland is open daily, except during show times.
 Off the Beaten Track
Boulder
A short drive (but a far cry) from the capital, Boulder is the Plains region's sanctum of all that is tuned in, turned on and scented with patchouli. With more artists' co-ops and vegan eateries than you can shake a smudge stick at, this place is about as similar to cowpokey Colorado as it is to ... well, Denver. While the latter shines with its big-city lights, tiny Boulder sits quietly, contemplating its navel, reveling in its low-key ways. Know this, traveler: if Denver is the Queen City of the Plains, then plucky Boulder is the Knave.
Boulderians - one quarter of whom are university students - value their quality of life, a fact reflected in the human scale of the pedestrian Pearl St Mall, the town's network of bicycle routes and the surrounding greenbelt that allows the locals to enjoy the area's sylvan attractions within a Frisbee's fling of their homes.
Typically atypical, Boulder's centers of higher learning include the National Center for Atmospheric Research, where some of the world's fastest supercomputers (and supercomputer geeks) click and whir inside their striking sandstone home (designed by architect IM Pei) at the foot of the Flatiron Rock Formation. Closer to downtown, hipsters howl for the new-agey Naropa Institute, where poet Allen Ginsberg helped found the Jack Kerouac School of Disembodied Poetics in homage to his fellow Beatnik bard. This definitely ain't your mother's Lit program.
Twenty-seven miles (43km) northwest of Denver, Boulder is an easy half-hour's drive from downtown Denver along Hwy 36. Buses between Denver and Boulder are frequent and can carry bicycles in their cargo compartments.
The town of Morrison sits amid the spectacular upturned red-rock scenery west of Red Rocks Park. Excavations in this National Historic District have yielded fossils of over 70 dinosaur species, including the first fossil remains of the allosaurus and stegosaurus ever discovered. You can view dinosaur footprints during the irregularly scheduled guided tours offered by the Friends of Dinosaur Ridge.
Morrison is 12 miles (20km) southwest of Denver. It's accessible by car via Hwy 8 or by bicycle via the Bear Creek Greenway and Platte River Greenway, a 32 mile (50km) ride from downtown Denver.
Outdoorsy types use the town of Golden as a hub for trips to the Denver Mountain Parks, but the town's biggest draw is a relatively mundane guided tour to see how one of America's most insipid beers is made at Coors Brewery. The Buffalo Bill Memorial Museum, 4.5 miles (7km) west of town, is located near the site where the Wild West Showmaster was buried in 1917.
Golden is on Hwy 58, north of I-70, about 20 miles (30km) west of Denver. Buses run to Golden from downtown Denver.
 Activities
The world-class skiing and snowboarding available at several nearby Rocky Mountain resorts are a big part of Denver's winter persona. Powder junkies from around the world descend on Vail each winter, making it the most visited ski resort in the United States. Denver's daytrippers are just as likely to hit nearby Eudora and Loveland for their dose of downhill. Loveland also boasts extensive cross-country trails, which make for excellent telemarking. For those who find a single season not nearly enough time to play in the snow, there's always the permanent snow field at 11,000ft (3300m) St Mary's Glacier, a few hours' drive west of Denver. Those with wheels of their own can reach Loveland Basin, 56 miles (90km) west of Denver, via I-70. Carless skiers can catch private shuttles that run from Denver's hotels and airport; many of Vail's resorts run airport shuttles that are free to guests.
Its location at the foot of the Rockies makes Denver a magnet for hiking enthusiasts. The 500 mile (805km) Colorado Trail starts at Chatfield Reservoir, 10 miles (16km) south of Denver, and enters the Rocky Mountains along the South Platte River. On its way to Durango in southwestern Colorado, it crosses eight mountain ranges, seven national forests, six wilderness areas and five river systems. Eliciting less commitment, day hikes to the 9700ft (2900m) Devil's Head Lookout in the forested Rampart Range, 30 miles (50km) southwest of Denver, are popular with those who like a good workout before settling into a picnic. In a little over a mile, you can climb almost 1000ft (300m) to the fire lookout, which offers a commanding view of Spanish Peaks to the south, Mt Evans to the north, South Park to the west and the Eastern Plains.
Denver's flat terrain and wide streets make bicycling easy, though intrepid road riders will find more intriguing loops beginning in Golden and in nearby parklands that offer offroad riding opportunities. Matthews/Winters Park, a short drive west of Denver along Hwy 26, is a favorite local mountain biking destination. A further 20 miles (32km) southwest, the USFS South Platte Ranger District offers about 40 miles (64km) of bike trails in the Buffalo Creek Mountain Bike Area. For maps and information on the trails and road loops, two good resources are Len Newton's Mountain Bike Rides: South Platte Ranger District and the Colorado Division of Parks and Recreation's free North Front Range map of urban trails. There's a Denver Metro Bike Routes map in the Denver phone book.
Castlewood Canyon State Park, 25 miles (40km) south of Denver, is a popular rock climbing area. The vertical rock faces at Boulder's Eldorado Canyon State Park offer Class 5.6 to 5.9 climbs, but be sure to steer clear of the peregrine and prairie falcons nests on the walls unless you want some attention from park rangers. No-bolt sport climbing is available on the three Flatirons, reached via hiking trails from Chautauqua Park close to Boulder.
Clear Creek offers exciting Class III white-water rafting for 15 miles (24km) between Idaho Springs and Golden, plus challenging Class IV rapids from May to October. Half-day trips for intermediate rafters aged 16 years or over can be organized with rafting companies in Denver.
 Events
Denver is a regional hub for cultural events, offering national touring acts year round at the massive Performing Arts Complex and summer performances at Red Rocks Amphitheater. Kicking off the new year in mid-January is the two-week National Western Stock Show & Rodeo, the largest show of its kind in the country. Mexico's independence is celebrated during Cinco de Mayo with two days of festivities at the 16th St Mall.
The first weekend in June, head to the Civic Center Park to see a quarter of a million diverse people at the Capitol Hill People's Fair - a gargantuan arts and crafts gala. The first weekend in July is the Cherry Creek Arts Festival, one of the country's largest arts and crafts shows. Bring a healthy appetite to A Taste of Colorado, a showcase of the region's top restaurant talent, held on Labor Day weekend in September at the Civic Center Park. Colorado's Shakespeare Festival is a six-week summer event at the University of Colorado-Boulder campus.
Public Holidays:
1 January - New Year's Day
Third Monday in January - Martin Luther King Jr Day
Third Monday in February - Presidents' Day
Late March or April - Easter
Last Monday in May - Memorial Day
4 July - Independence Day
First Monday in August - Colorado Day
First Monday in September - Labor Day
Second Monday in October - Columbus Day
11 November - Veterans' Day
Fourth Thursday in November - Thanksgiving
25 December - Christmas Day
 Getting There & Away
With five full-service runways to allow simultaneous landings even during foul weather, Denver International Airport was built to be a major hub of North American air travel. True to plan, it's now served by some 20 airlines, though most flights are run by United Airlines. You should have little trouble finding a flight (or at least a connector) to anywhere you're heading in the US.
Greyhound and affiliate TNM&O run frequent buses on routes along the Front Range and on transcontinental routes. All buses stop at the Denver Bus Terminal just north of the capitol. It's not the city's most charming spot, so if you're facing a long wait it's worth hanging out at a restaurant or bar in the area.
Amtrak's California Zephyr runs daily between Chicago and San Francisco (Emeryville) via Denver. Trains arrive and depart from Union Station, at the corner of 17th and Wyncoop Sts. The Ski Train to Winter Park operates on weekends throughout the snow season, also from Union Station. The scenic trip takes two hours and crosses the Continental Divide via the Moffat Tunnel.
At the intersection of I-70 and I-25, Denver is pretty hard for drivers to miss: even the worst navigators should have no trouble finding it. When you're ready to leave, driveaway companies in town may be able to provide you with a free set of wheels in exchange for vehicle delivery (just like Jack Kerouac in On the Road). But you should be prepared to post a substantial deposit and forfeit it if you damage the car (just like Jack Kerouac in On the Road).
 Getting Around
Denver International Airport (DIA), 24 miles (40km) northeast of downtown, is among the nation's ten busiest. Most major car rental companies have booths at the Ground Transportation Center on the 5th level near baggage claim. Vans, shuttles and taxis also queue up outside the 5th level doors. Regular Regional Transit District (RTD) buses, the Airporter and the Denver Airport Shuttle ply between the airport and downtown Denver from dawn until well after dark. There are also more expensive door-to-door shuttle services. If you're driving from downtown, allow at least 40 minutes just to reach the airport.
Visitors to the Museum of Natural History, Larimer Square, the zoo and many other attractions can board the RTD's special Cultural Connection Trolley with the purchase of an all-day ticket. One-hour self-guided tours aboard the trolley are an excellent way to orient yourself. Climb aboard in front of the Denver Center for the Performing Arts at the west end of downtown.
Denver's five mile (8km) long RTD light rail line passes through downtown, with NB (northbound) trains running on California St, while SB (southbound) trains follow Stout St. Trains run every five minutes during peak periods. Bikes may board during off-peak hours with permit only.
Drivers of cars and riders of motorbikes will need the vehicle's registration papers, liability insurance and an international drivers permit in addition to their domestic license. In general, Colorado is less tolerant of speeding than most Western states, and if you consistently push the speed limits you stand a good chance of a run-in with the highway patrol. Be warned: fines are stiff. Seat belts are required for the driver and front seat passenger and for all passengers on highways and interstates. On motorcycles, helmets are required for anyone under 18. Driving is on the right.
Denver has a truly wonderful network of bicycle routes on city streets, plus trails along the Platte River Greenway, Cherry Creek and Bear Creek. See the Denver Metro Bike Routes map in the Denver phone book for route suggestions.
 Recommended Reading
- The Oxford History of the American West, edited by Clyde Milner II, Carol A O'Connor and Martha A Sandweiss, critically re-evaluates the stereotyped Western experience of cowboys and Indians, providing new perspectives to topics like environmental and labor history, Western literature and popular culture.
- A Colorado History by Carl Ubbelohde, Maxine Benson and Duane A Smith is a comprehensive work that presents a familiar chronological outline.
- Louisa Ward Arp's Denver in Slices: A Historical Guide to the City is a fun guide to some of the quirkier aspects of the city's history.
- Roads to Center Place by Kathryn Gabriel explains how Colorado's Ancestral Puebloan sites like Chimney Rock, Mesa Verde and Hovenweep were related to a broader Native American culture in the Southwest.
- The Great Gates is a comprehensive geographic history of Rocky Mountain passes by one of Western America's best storytellers, Marshall Sprague.
- Rocky Mountain Plants by Ruth Ashton Nelson and Rocky Mountain Mammals by David M Armstrong are good works on the area's flora and fauna.
- 100 Hikes In Colorado by Scott S Warren includes day hikes and backpack trips for casual or serious hikers.
- Colorado's mining camps inspired Anne Ellis to write The Life of an Ordinary Woman, her biographical account of working-class hardships.
- Jack Kerouac chronicles his days in Denver - hitting 'all the bars in town' - in his Beat classic On the Road.
- Yesterday's Denver by Sandra Dallas is an excellent compilation of historical photos from the mid-1800s through WWII.
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