Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Kingdom of Nepal
Area: 147,181 sq km
Population: 23 million
Capital city: Kathmandu (pop 700,000)
People: Various ethnic groups, including the Bhotiya (which include the Sherpa), Khas, Kirati, Magar, Newari, Tharu, Tamong and Tibetans
Language: Nepali (also called Gurkhali)
Religion: 90% Hindu, 5% Buddhist, 3% Muslim
Government: Democracy
Prime Minister: Girija Prasad Koirala
Nepal sits uneasily on the shoulder of the southern Himalaya, wedged between China to the north and India to the south. In length and breadth it is just another small country but in height, it's a world-beater. Not only does it have the world's tallest mountains, including the cloud-hugging Everest and Annapurna, they're also the youngest - and still growing. Apart from its four mountain ranges - Chure Hills, Mahabharat Range, Himalaya and the Tibetan Marginals - Nepal also has vast plains in the south, fertile valleys in the midlands and high-altitude deserts in the north. The heavily cultivated belt between the Mahabharat Range and the Himalaya supports the bulk of the country's population.
Village scene, near Pokhara (22K)
Gosainkund Lake (23K)
There are over 6500 species of trees, shrubs and wildflowers in Nepal. The height of floral glory is in March and April when rhododendrons, the national flower, burst into colour. Nepal also boasts an astounding diversity of animal life, with 800 bird species and exotic mammals such as the royal Bengal tiger and snow leopard, as well as rhinoceros, elephant, bear, deer, monkey and jackal. Unfortunately, due to habitat degeneration and poaching, opportunities for seeing wildlife are usually restricted to national parks, reserves and western Nepal, where the human population is sparse.
Panoramic view over Gokyo Valley (14K)
Nepal has a typically monsoonal two-season year: the dry season (October to May) and the wet season (June to September). The monsoon affects the whole country, often flooding the southern plains, before tailing off as it moves away to the north and west. Temperatures vary but are generally hottest in the summer months of May and June and coldest during December and January.
Nepal's recorded history began with the Kiratis, who arrived in the 7th or 8th century BC from the east. Little is known about them, other than their deftness as sheep farmers and fondness for carrying long knives. It was during this period that Buddhism first came to the country; indeed it is claimed that Buddha and his disciple Ananda visited the Kathmandu Valley and stayed for a time in Patan. By 200 AD, Buddhism had waned, and was replaced by Hinduism, brought by the Licchavis, who invaded from northern India and overthrew the last Kirati king. The Hindus also introduced the caste system (which still continues today) and ushered in a classical age of Nepalese art and architecture.
By 879, the Licchavi era had petered out and was succeeded by the Thakuri dynasty. A grim period of instability and invasion often referred to as the `Dark Ages' followed, but Kathmandu Valley's strategic location ensured the kingdom's survival and growth. Several centuries later, the Thakuri king, Arideva, founded the Malla dynasty, kick-starting another renaissance of Nepali culture. Despite earthquakes, the odd invasion and feuding between the independent city-states of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, the dynasty flourished, reaching its zenith in the 15th century under Yaksha Malla.
The rulers of Ghorkha, the most easterly region, had always coveted the Mallas' wealth. Under the inspired leadership of Prithvi Narayan Shah, the Ghorkha launched a campaign to conquer the valley. In 1768 - after 27 years of fighting - they triumphed and moved their capital to Kathmandu. From this new base the kingdom's power expanded, borne by a seemingly unstoppable army, until progress was halted in 1792 by a brief and chastening war with Tibet.
Further hostilities followed in 1814, this time with the British over a territorial dispute. The Nepalese were eventually put to heel and compelled to sign the 1816 Sugauli Treaty, which surrendered Sikkim and most of Terai (some of the land was eventually restored in return for Nepalese help in quelling the Indian Mutiny of 1857), established Nepal's present eastern and western boundaries and, worst of all, installed a British `resident' in the country.
The Shah dynasty continued in power during the first half of the 19th century until the ghastly Kot Massacre of 1846. Taking advantage of the intrigue and assassinations that had plagued the ruling family, Jung Bahadur seized control by butchering several hundred of the most important men while they assembled in the Kot courtyard. He took the more prestigious title Rana, proclaimed himself prime minister for life, and later made the office hereditary. For the next century, the Ranas and their offspring luxuriated in huge Kathmandu palaces, while the remainder of the population eked out a living in medieval conditions.
The Rana's antiquated regime came to an end soon after WW II. In 1948, the British withdrew from India and with them went the Ranas' chief support. Around the same time, a host of insurrectional movements, bent on reshaping the country's polity, emerged. Sporadic fighting spilled onto the streets and the Ranas, at the behest of India, reluctantly agreed to negotiations. King Tribhuvan was anointed ruler in 1951 and struck up a government comprised of Ranas and members of the newly formed Nepali Congress Party.
But the compromise was shortlived. After toying with democratic elections - and feeling none too pleased by the result - King Mahendra (Tribhuvan's son and successor) decided that a `partyless' panchaayat system would be more appropriate for Nepal. The king selected the prime minister and cabinet and appointed a large proportion of the national assembly, which duly rubber-stamped his policies. Power, of course, remained with only one party - the king's.
Cronyism, corruption and the creaming-off of lucrative foreign aid into royal coffers continued until 1989. The Nepalese, fed up with years of hardship and suffering under a crippling trade embargo imposed by the Indians, rose up in popular protest called the Jana Andolan or `People's Movement'. In the ensuing months, detention, torture and violent clashes left hundreds of people dead. It all proved too much for King Birendra, in power since 1972. He dissolved his cabinet, legalised political parties and invited the opposition to form an interim government. The panchaayat system was finally laid to rest.
The changeover to democracy proceeded in an orderly, if leisurely, fashion, and in May 1991 the Nepali Congress Party and the Communist Party of Nepal shared most of the votes.
Since then, Nepal has discovered that establishing a workable democratic system is an enormously difficult task - especially when it is the country's first such system. The situation has been further exacerbated by a wafer-thin economy, massive unemployment, illiteracy and an ethnically and religiously fragmented population that continues to grow at an alarming rate.
GDP: US$25 billion
GDP per head: US$165
Annual growth: 7%
Inflation: 8%
Major industries: Agriculture, textiles, minerals and tourism
Major trading partners: India, Singapore, Japan, USA and Germany
At once a time machine and a magic carpet, Nepal sweeps you along crooked, timeworn streets flanked by irregular, multi-roofed pagodas, stupas and stone sculptures, and into rooms cluttered with horror-eyed masks, spinning prayer wheels, trippy thangka scrolls and Tibetan carpets. Muttered chants, esoteric tantric hymns and Nepalese music, whether it be the twang of a four-stringed saringhi or the plaintive notes of a flute, hang in the air. Traditional folk musicians or gaines gather for an evening of singing and socialising, classical dancing and trance-like masked dances enliven the Kathmandu Valley and Bhaktapur regions, while no wedding would be complete without the raucous damais - Nepal's modern ensembles.
Monks at Tengpoche Monastery (13K)
Tangbe village (15K)
Religion is the lifeblood of the Nepalese. Officially it is a Hindu country, but in practice the religion is a syncretism of Hindu and Buddhist beliefs with a pantheon of Tantric deities tagged on. The remainder of the population that isn't Buddhist or Hindu are either Muslim, Christian or shamans.
Nepalese carvings (25K)
Nepal's food is surprisingly dull given that it lies at the intersection of the two great gastronomic giants India and China. Most of the time meals consist of a dish called dhal bhat tarkari which is a combination of lentil soup, rice and curried vegetables - hardly the makings of a dynamic national cuisine. On the other hand, Nepal has adapted famously to Western tastes, markedly evident in Kathmandu's smorgasbord of menus: Mexican tacos; Japanese sukiyaki; Thai chocolate; Chinese marshmallows; onion and minestrone soup; borscht, quiche and soyburgers; and some of the best desserts - apple and lemon pies, almond layer cakes, fruit cakes - found anywhere in the world. To wash any (or all) of these offerings down, try a lassi (a refreshing mixture of curd and water), the locally produced beer or chang, a Himalayan home brew made from barley.
Village elder, Kathmandu Valley (8K)
Collecting water, Sibaghat (18K)
Traditional form of backpacking (24K)
Nepalese girl (5K)
Nepal's festive calendar is hectic. Dasain, celebrated nationwide in October, is the most important of all Nepalese celebrations and features the biggest animal sacrifice of the year. Running a close second is Tihar (November), but unlike Daisan, animals are honoured rather than slaughtered. Other festivals celebrated nationally include the water-tinged Holi (March) and Chaitra Daisan (April), which is yet another bad day for animals. Hindu festivals number the Haribodhini Ekadashi (November) and Maha Shivaratri (March), both celebrated in Pashupatinath, the Gai Jatra (August) in Kathmandu and the Krishna Jayanti (August/September) in Patan. Buddhist celebrations are just as thick on the ground, and include Mani Rimdu (November) in Solu Khumbu, Buddha Jayanti (May) in Kathmandu, and Losar (Tibetan New Year) (February) in Swayambhunath, Jawlakhel and highland communities.
Visas: All foreign nationals (except Indians) require visas. Single-entry tourist visas are issued for up to 30 days and can be extended for a maximum of three months. They permit travel around the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara and Chitwan National Park in the Terai. Trekking permits are required if you intend striking out from the main roads; they can be obtained from immigration offices in Kathmandu and Pokhara.
Health risks: Altitude sickness, hepatitis A, malaria (low-lying areas only), meningococcal Meningitis (Kathmandu Valley region) and typhoid
Time: GMT/UTC plus five hours 45 minutes
Electricity: 220V, 50 Hz (when available)
Weights & measures: metric (see the conversion table.)
Tourism: 255,000 visitors
Currency: Nepalese rupee
Exchange rate: US$1 = Rs 61
Relative costs:
- budget meal: US$2-3
- restaurant meal: US$7-10
- budget room: US$5-15
- mid-range hotel room: US$15-35
If you stay in rock-bottom accommodation and survive on a predominantly Nepalese diet, you could easily live in Nepal on less than US$15 a day. If you prefer to stay in comfortable lodgings, eat in tourist-oriented restaurants and take the occasional taxi, your living costs are likely to be between US$20 and US$40 a day. On an independent trek between village inns, your living costs are likely to be between US$10 and US$15 a day, as long as you don't indulge in too many 'luxury' items, like beer and chocolate.
There are effectively three exchange rates in Nepal: the rate set by the government's Nepal Rastra Bank, the slightly more generous (but still legal) rate set by the private banks, and the even more generous black-market rate set by carpet shops and travel agents. The daily Rising Nepal newspaper lists the Nepal Rastra Bank's rate, which is a useful reference point. Exchange rates and commissions can vary quite significantly so shop around.
When you change money legally, you are issued with a Foreign Exchange Encashment Receipt showing the amount of hard currency you have exchanged. If you leave Nepal via Kathmandu airport and haven't spent all your rupees, you can exchange up to 15% of the amount shown on these unused receipts back into hard currency.
Major international currencies such as the US dollar and pounds sterling are readily accepted, and the Indian rupee is also considered a 'hard' currency. Outside the Kathmandu Valley, it may be difficult to use large-denomination Nepalese notes, so keep a decent portion of your money in small-denomination notes. If you're trekking, take enough small-denomination cash with you to last the whole trek.
Tipping is becoming fairly common in upmarket restaurants in Kathmandu, so leave around 10% of the bill if service was good. There's no need to tip in cheaper establishments or to tip taxi drivers. Porters on treks, however, should be tipped around Rs 100 per day. Bargaining is commonplace in markets and tourist shops, but treat it as a form of polite social discourse rather than a matter of life and death.
Climatic factors are very important in deciding when to visit Nepal. October-November, the start of the dry season, is in many ways the best time of year: the weather is balmy, the air is clean, visibility is perfect, and the country is lush following the monsoon. February-April, the tail end of the dry season is the second-best period: visibility is not so good because of dust, but the weather is warm and many of Nepal's wonderful wild flowers are in bloom. In December and January the climate and visibility are good but it can be chilly: trekkers need to be well prepared for snow, and cheaper hotels in Kathmandu - where heating is nonexistent - can be gloomy in the evening. The rest of the year is fairly unpleasant for travelling: May and early June are generally too hot and dusty for comfort, and the monsoon from mid-June to September obscures the mountains in cloud and turns trails and roads to mud.
The country's capital and largest city simultaneously reeks of history and the wear and tear of increasing modernity. The tightly packed historical centre, with its squares and temples, continues to preserve a world light years away from the shantytowns, expensive hotels, restaurants and shops on the city's outskirts. Kathmandu's core is Durbar Square, with the Vishnumati River to the west and Ratna Park to the east. The Bagmati River forms the southern boundary, while Thamel, the budget travellers' hangout, sprawls to the north.
Patan
Patan, the second-largest city in the valley, lies just across the Bagmati River from Kathmandu, but it's a much quieter and less frenetic place to visit. The city is justly proud of its temples and artisans and it is their handiwork that provides the focus of the stunning Durbar Square - choc-a-block with the largest display of Newari architecture in Nepal. It includes the Royal Palace, which contains a richly decorated bathtub, and the two-tiered brick Jagannarayan Temple. Look up to the roof struts to see carvings of figures engaged in quite athletic acts of intercourse.
A few minutes' walk north of the square is the Golden Temple, a Buddhist monastery guarded by sacred tortoises that potter around the courtyard; and the Kumbeshawar, reputedly the oldest (1392) temple in Patan. South of the square is an area of charming streets lined with metalsmiths and brassware shops.
Patan's other attractions are flung further afield. Among them is a collection of four stupas, thought to have been built over 2500 years ago, and Nepal's only zoo, which features a reasonable assortment of rhinos, tigers, leopards and bird life. Palm readers gather in the park outside - they may be able to point out which animal you'll be reincarnated as. Tibetan carpets can be bought in Jawlakhel, east of the city.
Bhaktapur is in many ways the most medieval of the three major cities in the Kathmandu Valley. Despite recent development, the city still retains a distinctly timeless air with much of its glorious architecture dating from the end of the 17th century. Most sights can be easily traversed by foot and include yet another Durbar Square, which is infinitely larger than Kathmandu's and has its fair share of temples, statues and columns, many with grisly histories behind them. For instance, the sculptor of the Ugrachandi & Bhairab Statues had his hands chopped off to prevent him from duplicating his masterpieces.
Naga Pokhari, Bhaktapur (18K)
Bhakatapur's second main square is Taumadhi Tole, which features Nyatapola, the highest temple in the valley, and Til Mahadev Narayan, an important place of pilgrimage. Nearby is Potters' Square, where thousands of clay pots are made and sold. East from here, through the sinuous streets of the old city centre, is Tachupal Tole, another square containing temples and monasteries plus craft museums.
Sometimes it's best to take a break from temples and sit back and watch the unchanging rituals of daily life: the laying out of grain to dry in the sun; families collecting water or washing under communal taps; children playing simple games; dyed yarns flapping in the breeze; or potters at work throwing clay.
Apart from Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, there are a number of other fascinating villages, temples and stupas scattered around the valley. One of these is probably the best known site in Nepal - the Buddhist temple of Swayambhunath. The temple is colloquially known as the 'monkey temple', after the large tribe of garrulous monkeys which guard the hill, amusing visitors and devotees with their tricks, including sliding gracefully down the long double bannisters of the main stairway. The soaring central stupa is topped by an aureate block featuring the watchful eyes of Buddha. Set around the base is a continuous series of prayer wheels which pilgrims, circumambulating the stupa, spin as they pass by.
Swayambhunath (15K)
Beyond Swayambhunath, on the banks of the Bagmati River, is Pashupatinath, the country's pre-eminent Hindu temple and one of the most significant Shiva temples on the subcontinent. As the Bagmati is a holy river, Pashupatinath has become a popular place to be cremated - the ghats (river steps) immediately in front of the temple are reserved for the cremation of royalty, while those a little further south are for the riff-raff.
Another site with a religious bent is the huge stupa of Bodhnath, which is the largest in the country and among the largest in the world. It's also the centre for Nepal's considerable population of Tibetans. Late afternoon is a good time to visit. This is when prayer services are held and the locals turn out to walk around the stupa (if you want to join in, remember to walk in a clockwise direction). Surrounding Bodhnath are a number of monasteries, but be discreet and respectful if you intend visiting them.
The valley also offers plenty of opportunities to get off the beaten track, with treks to and from the resort villages of Nagarkot and Dhulikhel; wallowing in Tatopani's hot springs; exploring cloud forests in Pulchowki; and mountain biking in the regions of Chapagaon and Bungamati.
If you come to Terai expecting snow-clad mountains and jaw-dropping vistas you'll soon be disappointed. What you get instead is hot subtropical plains and some of the most fascinating attractions in Nepal. Foremost among them is the magnificent Royal Chitwan National Park, once the hunting ground for British and Nepalese aristocrats. Today, the animals - elephant, rhinoceros, tiger, leopard and deer - are protected, not shot. Probably the greatest thrill here is to scout for wildlife on the back of an elephant. If that's too uncomfortable, you can do the same thing in a jeep or canoe or go jungle walking with experienced guides. Watch out for leeches, which operate with stealth-like efficiency during the monsoon.
Statuesque elephant, Royal Chitwan National Park (9K)
Janakpur is an attractive city, bustling with tourists - Indian pilgrims that is, not Western backpackers. The city's religious significance is due to its role as the birthplace of Sita (Rama's wife in the Hindu epic Ramayana). During festivals, when vignettes from the Ramayana are re-enacted, it almost feels as if the ancient myth has come to life. If you can overcome its bewildering tangle of streets, Janakpur is packed with worthwhile sights including temples, pilgrim hostels and tiny sacred ponds. On the city's outskirts is the Janakpur Women's Development Centre, a must-see if you're interested in traditional painting and ceramics or the role of women in local society.Beautiful Devghat and Lumbini, now confirmed as the birthplace of Buddha, are also important devotional sites in the Terai.
The city of Pokara is renowned for its setting rather than its historical or cultural endowments. Its quiet lakeside location and proximity to the mountains mean it is an ideal place for recovering from (or gearing up for) a trek, taking leisurely strolls or simply putting your nose in a good book. And wouldn't you know it, Pokhara has some of the country's best accommodation and restaurants as well. There's a batch of Tibetan settlements, a hilltop monastery and the pretty Devi Falls nearby. Day walks can be taken to Sarangkot (1592m), the limestone caves at Mahendra Gufa or Rupa and Begnas Tals lakes. More exertion (but not much more) will be required to tackle the three to four-day Annapurna Skyline Trek.
Rice field, Pokhara (19K)
Hillside village near Pokhara (19K)
There are daily flights between Pokhara and Kathmandu. For Himalayan views sit on the right-hand side if you're heading to Pokhara and the left if heading to Kathmandu. The bus trip between the two towns takes about eight hours.
Trekking in the hills, near Pokhara (25K)
Dakshinkali
At the southern end of the Kathmandu Valley, in a dark, somewhat spooky location, stands the temple of Dakshinkali. The temple is dedicated to the six-armed goddess Kali, Shiva's consort in her most sanguinary incarnation. Twice a week, Nepalese journey here to satisfy her bloodlust. They bring buffaloes, chickens, ducks, goats, sheep and pigs, which are matter-of-factly despatched by having their throats slit or heads lopped off. These animals, some still writhing, are then dragged to a nearby stream where they are butchered for a feast at a later date. The blood runs freely every Saturday and especially during the October festival of Dasain when the image of Kali is literally bathed in the stuff. Crowded buses run between Dakshinkali and Kathmandu on Tuesday and Saturday.
Nagarjun forest reserve
The walled Nagarjun forest reserve, north-west of Kathmandu, is filled with live pheasant, deer and other animals. This is one of the last significant areas of untouched forest in the Kathmandu Valley. Nearby is a popular Buddhist pilgrimage site, a number of limestone caves and a small lookout with commanding views over the countryside. The main entrance to the reserve is a 20-minute bicycle ride from Thamel; the walking trails begin just inside the gate.
South-west of Kathmandu, midway between the capital and Hetauda, Daman is situated 2322m above sea level. It claims to have the most spectacular outlook on the Himalaya - an unimpeded panorama of snowcaps from Dhaulagiri to Mt Everest. If the mountains are in cloud when you arrive, you can stay at the ramshackle viewing tower and catch the peaks in the morning. If it's spring, check out the rhododendron forest on the southern side of the village. There are also great views over the Terai to India from here.
Daman is three hours by car or four hours by bus from Kathmandu. Unfortunately, there is only one bus a day in each direction. If you're feeling adventurous, this is one of the most spectacular and gruelling mountain-bike routes in the world.
Templed out? Sick of stupas? Try trekking instead. The best trekking season is between September and early December, although March and April are also popular. There are plenty of trekking companies, guides and porters to help arrange your trek, or you can easily organise things yourself because supplies and basic hotel accommodation on most trekking routes are readily available. Trekking equipment shops are plentiful in Kathmandu (try Thamel or Freak St) and Pokhara. You can rent most items that you might need.
The long trek ahead: Kirtipur, Chobar walk (23K)
Walking in the Annapura region (23K)
Trekking permits are issued by the Kathmandu and Pokhara immigration offices and will need to be shown at police checkpoints along your route. A normal trekking permit costs roughly US$10 per week for the first four weeks. Permits are available on the day of application if you start the process early, and require two passport photos. National Park and Conservation Area entry fees may be applicable, depending on your route.
Popular treks from Kathmandu include the Everest Base Camp, and the Helambu and Langtang treks. From Pokhara, the most popular are the Annapurna Circuit and the Jomsom trek. Less-travelled alternatives require more planning, but include the Kanchenjunga Base Camp trek, the Dolpo region, Mustang and Rara Lake.
Remember to minimise your impact on the environment by avoiding use of non-biodegradable items, disposing of your garbage responsibly, staying at lodges that use kerosene instead of firewood, and by not using toilet paper.
Rafting and kayaking are incredibly popular, especially on the Trisuli River near Kathmandu and the Sun Kosi in Dolalghat. Remoter challenges include the Karnali (a two-day trek from Surkhet) and the Tamur (a three-day trek from Dobhan in eastern Nepal). Other activities include mountain biking in the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara and near the Tibetan border; and safariing in the Terai. A range of language, spiritual, medicinal and yoga courses can be taken in Kathmandu and at various temples and monasteries.
There are few direct flights to Nepal, which means most travellers from Europe, North America and Australia have to change aircraft and/or airline en route. Nepal's only international airport is Kathmandu's Tribhuvan Airport. If you want to see the mountains as you fly into Kathmandu, make sure you sit on the right-hand side of the plane. The departure tax for international flights is Rs 700, or Rs 500 to destinations on the Indian subcontinent.
The classic overland routes between Nepal and India are still popular. Buses are usually the quickest and easiest form of transport between Nepal and India. There are three main crossing points: Sunauli-Bhairawa, Birganj-Raxaul Bazaar and Kakarbhitta-Siliguri. The Sunauli border crossing is the best one from Varanasi; the Birganj crossing is the easiest from Calcutta; and Kakarbhitta is the obvious choice from Darjeeling. A trickle of travellers enter Nepal at the Mahendrenagar-Banbassa border crossing in the extreme west of Nepal, which is handy for travellers coming overland from Delhi who do not want to visit Varanasi. The crossing between Nepal and Tibet via Kodari is open to organised groups but not to individual travellers heading north. Be prepared with alternative plans if you're thinking about using this route, because landslides regularly make it impassable during the monsoon.
Royal Nepal Airlines and several private companies offer domestic air services, but flights are relatively expensive and often delayed or cancelled due to inopportune weather. It's advisable to book domestic flights a week in advance and keep re-confirming your ticket just to make sure you don't slip off the passenger list if the flight is full. Airlines only accept payment in hard currency from visitors. Kathmandu's domestic airport is a shabby, chaotic place usually full of stressed tourists whose flights have been delayed.
Public buses are the main form of transportation and are incredibly cheap, incredibly uncomfortable and tediously slow. Buses ply almost every paved road (not that there are many), as well as some of the unpaved ones, and nearly every visitor comes back with horror stories about 'almost' plunging into a ravine. There are several services between Kathmandu and Pokhara aimed specifically at tourists. Those who dislike having chickens and goats supplementing their human travelling companions will prefer them. There are no trains and no drive-yourself rental cars in Nepal. Cars with drivers can be hired.
Bike-riding is quickly gaining popularity with visitors for short jaunts and a bike is often quicker than using local buses, especially in the Kathmandu Valley. Walking is still the most important and most reliable method of getting from A to B and for moving cargo. In most of Nepal walking is the only option. More goods are carried by human porters than by every other form of transport combined.
Local transport in the Kathmandu Valley and around Pokhara includes metered and unmetered taxis, buses, tempos (three-wheeled buses), auto-rickshaws, bicycle rickshaws and bicycles.
- The market is saturated with books on Nepal. Good general books include Peter Matthiessen's The Snow Leopard, a beautifully written account of the author's pilgrimage to Dolpa to track the elusive cat; and Peter Somerville-Large's engagingly dotty To the Navel of the World, which chronicles his adventures through Nepal's uncharted lands. Try also Pico Iyer's Video Night in Kathmandu, a collection of essays which has a chapter on the collision between Nepalese tradition and Western culture.
- Recent histories are limited but Fatalism & Development - Nepal's Struggle for Modernisation by Nepalese anthropologist Dor Bahadur Bista is a good place to start. There are more up-to-date books on the country's natural history, including K K Guring's The Heart of the Jungle, George Schaller's Stones of Silence - Journeys in the Himalaya and Robert Fleming Sr et al Birds of Nepal.
- Good introductions to Nepalese art can be found in Lydia Aran's The Art of Nepal and Hallvard Kare Kuloy's Tibetan Rugs, while facets of the country's culture are revealed in People of Nepal by Dor Bahadur Bista and Festivals of Nepal by Mary Andersen.
- Mountaineering breeds either writers or braggarts, judging by the number of publications written after every first ascent of a Himalayan peak. Often choosing which account to read can become one's own personal Everest, but H W Tilman's Nepal Himalaya, Chris Bonington's Annapurna South Face and Mark Anderson's On the Big Hill should steady the nerves. Otherwise, try The Ascent of Rum Doodle by W E Bowman - a classic mountaineering tall story.
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