Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Kingdom of Bhutan
Area: 46,620 sq km (18,182 sq mi)
Population: 600,000
Capital city: Thimphu (pop 20,000)
People: Sarchops, Ngalong, Lhotshampa
Language: Dzongkha
Religion: Drukpa Kagyu Buddhism
Government: Monarchy
King: Jigme Singye Wangchuck
Landlocked Bhutan is roughly the size of Switzerland. It is bounded on the north and north-west by Tibet, with India nudging its remaining borders. Virtually the entire country is mountainous, peaking at the 7554m (24,777ft) Kulha Gangri on the Tibetan border. North to south it features three geographic regions; the high Himalaya of the north, the hills and valleys of the centre, and the foothills and plains of the south. Its great rivers helped sculpt its geography and their enormous potential for hydropower has helped shape the economy.
Thanks to centuries of isolationism, its small population and topographical extremes, Bhutan's ecosystem is virtually intact, and boasts the most varied habitats and a rich array of animal and plant species. Under Bhutanese law, 60% of the kingdom will remain forested for all time. There is currently a remarkable 72% forest cover and an astonishing array of plants; more than 5000 species, including over 300 medicinal strains. There are 165 species of mammals including many rare and endangered animals such as the golden langur, snow leopard and red panda. So far, 675 species of birds have been recorded, including the rare and endangered black-necked crane.
Just over a quarter of the kingdom is in protected areas, all of which encompass inhabited regions. A progressive Integrated Conservation and Development Programme reconciles the needs of the community with environmental protection, the foundation of Bhutan's entire economic ethos. National parks sustain important ecosystems and have not been developed as tourist attractions. In many cases you won't even be aware that you are entering or leaving a protected area.
Bhutan's climate varies widely from the tropical southern border areas to the perpetually snow-covered peaks of the high Himalaya, just 150km (93mi) north as the crow flies. At the same latitude as Miami and Cairo, its climate depends largely on elevation. It bears the brunt of the monsoon, receiving more rainfall than other Himalayan regions, sometimes up to 5.5m (18ft) a year.
Archeological evidence suggests Bhutan was inhabited possibly as early as 2000 BC. Buddhism was probably introduced in the 2nd century although traditionally its introduction is credited to the first visit of Guru Rimpoche in the 8th century.
Guru Rimpoche is the most important figure in Bhutan's history, regarded as the second Buddha. His miraculous powers included the ability to subdue demons and evil spirits, and he preserved his teachings and wisdom by concealing them in the form of terma (hidden treasures) to be found later by enlightened treasure discoverers known as tertons. One of the best known of these tertons was Pema Lingpa; the texts and artefacts he found, the religious dances he composed, and the art he produced, are vital parts of Bhutan's living heritage.
Before the 16th century, numerous clans and noble families ruled in different valleys throughout Bhutan, quarelling among themselves and with Tibet. This changed in 1616 with the arrival of Ngawang Namgyal, a monk of the Drukpa Kagyu school of Buddhism from Tibet. He taught throughout the region and soon established himself as the religious ruler of Bhutan with the title Shabdrung Rimpoche. He repelled attacks from rival lamas and Tibetan forces and transformed the southern valleys into a unified country called Druk Yul (Land of the Dragon). While the political system he established lasted until the beginning of the 20th century, the announcement of the Shabdrung's death in 1705 was followed by 200 years of internal conflict and political infighting.
Instability lasted until 1907 when Ugyen Wangchuck was elected, by a unanimous vote of Bhutan's chiefs and principal lamas, as hereditary ruler of Bhutan. Thus the first king was crowned and the Wangchuck dynasty began. Over the following four decades, he and his heir, King Jingme Wangchuck, brought the entire country under the monarchy's direct control. Upon independence in 1947, India recognised Bhutan as a sovereign country.
The third king, Jigme Dorje Wangchuck, is regarded as the Father of Modern Bhutan because of the development plans he initiated. When China took control of Tibet, Bhutan's policy of total isolation lost its appeal and the country was formally admitted to the United Nations in 1971. The present monarch, His Majesty King Jigme Singye, has continued the policy of controlled development with particular focus on the preservation of the environment and Bhutan's unique culture. Among his ideals is economic self-reliance and what he nicknamed 'Gross National Happiness'.
nepali diaspora
His coronation on 2 June 1974 was the first time the international media were allowed to enter the kingdom, and marked Bhutan's debut appearance on the world stage. The first group of paying tourists arrived later that year.
Traditionally, lyonpos (members of the Council of Ministers) were appointed by the king for five-year terms. Lyonpos were usually reappointed and an unrivalled political stability in the last two decades has enabled Bhutan to progress steadily with its policy of controlled modernisation. Lyonpo Dawa Tsering holds a place in the Guinness Book of Records as the world's longest serving Foreign Minister (1972-1998). In major political reform in June 1998, the king dissolved the Council of Ministers and announced that ministers formerly appointed by him would need to stand for open election.
GDP: US$85 million
GDP per head: US$142
Annual growth: 6.8%
Inflation: 7%
Major industries: Mining, timber, fruit processing, tourism, the sale of hydroelectric power (to India)
Major trading partners: India, Bangladesh
In many ways, Bhutan seems to teeter between contemporary and medieval: monks transcribe ancient Buddhist texts into laptop computers, traditionally-dressed archers use alloy steel bows and arrows, and video rental shops do a brisk trade while there is no television. Bhutan has been described as 'a living museum' because its ancient dzongs and temples are still the focus of modern life. Although it is the last Buddhist Himalayan state you won't find a nation of saintly, ascetic, other-worldly monks, but a vibrant, fun-loving and well-educated population. Every aspect of life in the kingdom is guided by the ethics of its official religion, Drukpa Kagyu Buddhism, and without a rudimentary understanding of this you'll never get a handle on Bhutan.
All Bhutanese art, dance, drama and music is steeped in Buddhism: paintings are not produced for tourists, but for religious purposes; festivals are not quaint revivals, but living manifestations of a national faith; and almost all art, music and dance represents the struggle between good and evil. These traditions can be seen in all their glory at Bhutan's spectacular religious festivals called tsechus.
Menus in Bhutan are a fantasy concocted of the ingredients a restaurant would like to have and what is actually on their shelves. As your trip will be an all-inclusive package, expect to eat most meals at your hotel (buffet fans are in for a treat). Your guide can arrange dinner at local restaurants but beware: traditional Bhutanese food always features chillies and the most popular dish is ema datse made with large, green hot chillies in a cheese sauce. Though there is plenty of white rice, Bhutanese prefer a local, slightly nutty, red variety. At high altitudes, wheat is the staple. Several Tibetan-style dishes are common, including momos (dumplings), and thukpa (noodles). Pork fat is popular in the wilds because of its high energy content - visitors find it almost inedible because it's usually stale. There are no slaughterhouses in Bhutan, and only a few cold storage facilities so even the keenest carnivores should consider going veggie for their stay.
The largest and most colourful festivals (tsechus) take place at Bhutan's dzongs and monasteries once a year, in honour of Guru Rimpoche. They normally take place in spring and autumn. Tsechus consist of up to five days of spectacular pageantry, masked dances and religious allegorical plays which have remained unchanged for centuries. As well as being a vital living festival and an important medium of Buddhist teaching, tsechus are huge social gatherings. Bhutanese revel and rejoice together, dressed in their finest clothes and jewellery, in an infectiously convivial atmosphere where humour and devotion go hand in hand. For visitors, the tsechu provides an ideal opportunity to appreciate the essence of the Bhutanese character. If you can't take a good photograph here, you should hock your camera. Pack as much film as you think you will need and then double it.
Visas: Despite popular mythology, you don't need special 'pull' to get a visa, neither is there a limit on the number of tourists allowed to visit. However, to minimise the perceived threat to Bhutan's unique culture, the government has established a stringent set of rules which means you must travel on a pre-arranged itinerary and pay US$200 a night for the privilege, all costs included. Apart from that, the process is relatively straightforward.
All visa applications must be channelled through the Tourism Authority of Bhutan (TAB) from a selected tour operator. With notification of approval and receipt of full payment, visas are issued when you arrive in the country. It's actually an extremely efficient system and you can set up a trip with as little as 10 days planning.
Health risks: Altitude sickness, diarrhoea, hepatitis A, malaria (lowland areas only)
Time: GMT/UTC plus six hours
Electricity:230V, 50Hz
Weights & measures: Metric (see the conversion table.)
Money & Costs
Currency: Ngultrum
Relative costs:
- Budget meal: US$1-2
- Moderate restaurant meal: US$2-4
- Top-end restaurant meal: US$10
- Budget room: US$1-3
- Moderate hotel: US$5-7
- Top-end hotel: US$150-200
The daily tariff for visitors is US$200, whether you stay in hotels or go trekking. This covers all your accommodation, food, land transport within Bhutan, service of guides and porters, supply of pack animals and some cultural programmes. The rate applies uniformly irrespective of location, season and the type of accommation asked for or provided (which means if you get bumped from the fancy hotel you booked - which occasionally happens during busy times - you have no recourse). Groups of fewer than four people pay a daily surcharge, ranging from US$20 per person in a group of three to US$40 for a lone traveller. This covers all your costs apart from drinks, laundry and cultural splurges such as a traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath.
Bhutan has two banks, with branches throughout the country. You can cash travellers cheques at any bank and most hotels but you should only carry well-known brands such as American Express. Don't plan to use your credit card in Bhutan and there are no ATMs.
Tipping isn't de rigeur - staff will act embarrassed but they will appreciate the gesture. You will probably be accompanied by the same guide and driver throughout your trip and you should tip them: the equivalent of about US$2-3 a day for the guide and slightly less for the driver is standard. Trekking guides expect considerably more, at least twice this amount. Bargaining isn't a Bhutanese tradition: your haggling skills won't get you far here.
The best time to visit is October and November and during major festivals. The climate is best in autumn, from late September to late November, when skies are clear and the high mountain peaks are visible. This is the ideal time for trekking and for travelling throughout the country. You're likely to get wet no matter the season but avoid the monsoon, from June to August, when an average of 0.5m (1.5ft) of rain buckets down in Thimphu and up to 1m (3ft) saturates the eastern hills.
Warning
It's a long, hard, winding, slog to reach Eastern Bhutan. To avoid the greying of hairs on the way back, many Bhutanese travel into India, cross the plains and re-enter Bhutan at Pheuntsholing. However, travel in Assam is seriously discouraged due to intense security problems posed by Indian separatist groups such as the United Liberation Front of Assam (ULFA) who are seeking their own independent homeland.
There is a highly visible Indian army presence in Assam. If you choose, or are forced by road closure, to travel through this area, take extreme caution. Do not take inspections lightly - the Indian army is under continuous attack and understandably jittery.
Thimphu, the capital, lies in a beautiful, wooded valley, sprawling up a hillside on the bank of the Thimphu Chhu (river.) This is the only world capital without traffic lights. One was installed several years ago but residents complained about its impersonalness and it was removed within days. Despite recent development, Thimphu retains its charm and is awash with brightly painted, elaborately decorated facades which give the town a captivating, medieval feel.
Thimphu is a cornucopia of Bhutanese culture brimming with things to see and do. Dominating the horizon, on a hill just above the town, the imposing Trashi Chhoe Dzong (fortress of the Glorious Religion) was completely renovated in the 1960s to become the symbol of the capital. It now houses the offices of the king and the central monk body. Most tour operators arrange a visit to the School of Arts & Crafts below the dzong. The school teaches traditional skills to talented children from throughout Bhutan, and a small shop sells some of the students' stunning works at reasonable prices.
Back in town, the most visible religious structure is the Memorial Chorten, containing numerous sacred religious paintings and tantric statues. For many, this is the focus of their daily worship and people circumnambulate the chorten throughout the day. The Weekend Market, in the centre of Thimphu, is an ideal spot to experience an urban and rural blend as villagers jostle with well-heeled Thimphu residents for the best bargains. Nearby, the Changlimithang Stadium is the national archery ground where you can see competitors participating in the kingdom's national sport, complete with traditional garb, colourful behaviour and entertaining rituals. The National Institute of Traditional Medicine is an interesting facility which uses over 300 different plants to make medicines distributed throughout the kingdom.
You will probably be booked into one of the town's top-end hotels unless you have scheduled your trip during the Thimphu tsechu, in autumn, when all the hotels are completely booked. In that case you may end up in a guesthouse, someone's home, or even a tent - best to just accept what you get, it's part of the ride. Also, you may have to revise your idea of 'top-end': many of Bhutan's hotels are only at the standard that India's were, say, 20 years ago, but the service and facilities are generally good. However simple your accommodation, your room is likely to be ornately decorated in Bhutanese style and you may, at first, think you are being led into a monastery rather than your boudoir.
If you come to Bhutan by air, you'll probably land in Paro. Western Bhutan is the heartland of the Drukpa people and you will be confronted with the largest, oldest and most spectacular dzongs in the kingdom. You will immediately realise you are off the beaten track of world tourism.
The town of Paro lies in the centre of the rich, fertile Paro Valley, with beautiful landscapes, scenic villages and historic buildings all within a few kilometres. Immerse yourself in Bhutanese culture in the National Museum close to the town centre - the building itself was completed in 1656.
In April 1998 a fire destroyed the main structure of Taktshang Monastery, perhaps Bhutan's most photographed and famous site, perched on the side of a cliff 900m (2952ft) above the valley floor. It is also known as 'Tiger's Nest' because Guru Rimpoche is said to have flown to the site on the back of a tigress in the eight century. It has been one of the kingdom's most sacred sites ever since, and will be rebuilt in its original style once an auspicious date has been chosen.
Paro airport is 7km (4mi) from Paro town and 53km (33mi) from Thimpu. Taxis are rare and you should ensure that there is a vehicle meeting your flight.
It sounds like a blues bar in America's deep south but Bumthang is the spiritual heartland of Bhutan and home to its most ancient and precious Buddhist sites. (Smokers should stock up before arrival because the sale of tobacco is banned here.) In the centre of Bhutan, Bumthang encompasses four major valleys; the main one, Choskhor, is home to the most important dzongs, temples and palaces. Jakar is at the foot of the Choskhor valley and likely to be your base. Jakar Dzong is the largest in Bhutan with a circumference of more than 1500m (4920ft), and was founded in 1549. Wangdichholing Palace was formerly the humble abode of King Uygen Wangchuck.
Further along Choskhor Valley, the temple of Jambey Lhakhang was built in 659 and hosts one of the kingdom's most spectacular festivals, the Jambey Lhakhang Drup, in October. Kurjey Lhakhang is named after the body print of Guru Rimpoche which is preserved in a cave inside the oldest of the three buildings which has stood since 1652. If you're feeling dzonged out and have had your fill of old, sacred buildings, take to the countryside. Here, the great majority of Bhutanese live as they have for thousands of years.
The best place to base yourself in the Bumthang region is Japar, just over 150km (93mi) from Thimpu. As with elsewhere in Bhutan, getting there is a matter of finding anything with wheels and renting it, flagging it, or catching it. It's either that or walk.
Phobjika is a glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountains, and is a designated conservation area nudging the borders of the Black Mountain National Park. It is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the country because of the large flock of rare, endangered black-necked cranes that winter there. These birds have a special place in Bhutanese folklore and one of the most popular folk songs laments the time when the cranes leave the valley to return to Tibet. With permission from the Nature Conservation Section in Thimphu, you can view the roosting place of these birds. It's an awesome spectacle at dusk when all the birds from the valley congregate for the night.
Permanent residents of the valley include muntjaks (barking deer), wild boars, sambars, Himalayan black bears, leopards and red foxes. WWF has assisted in setting up the Khebethang Nature Study Centre in Phobjikha village, near the foot of the valley.
Nearby, Black Mountain National Park is a vast area still in its natural state. It has a vast array of plant species, and animals found there include tigers, Himalayan black bears, leopards, red pandas, gorals, serows, sambars, wild pigs and golden langurs.
To get to Phobjika, take the main road to Wangi, and then turn off down a dirt road for a further 13km (8mi). Thimpu to Phobjika is 94km (58km).
The pretty, lively town of Trashigang is a good jumping off point to visit the kingdom's wild east. Few travellers make it here but, as long as you're happy to leave behind the relative comforts of Thimphu and Paro, exploring this neck of the woods can have its rewards. This is the most densely populated part of Bhutan but also most definitely the hinterland.
Locals are fond of a tipple and bodies sleeping off their excesses at the side of the road aren't an unusual sight. On the street leading toward the dzong, you'll find the Gyeltshen Bar open every day. The sign says 'bar' and has a picture of a cowboy on one side and a local artist's peculiar adaptation of Donald Duck on the other. This is a good place to sample the local arra and soak up the atmosphere (in that order). Villagers come to town on holy days, which occur on the first, 10th and 15th of the Bhutanese month. After selling their produce they get stuck into the arra and paint the town an unforgettable Bhutanese shade of red.
Be warned! Local jeep drivers say that if you leave Trashigang at 3.30am, you won't be reaching Thimphu before 8.30pm; a gruelling 17 hour, 600km (192mi), endurance trial up hill and down dale.
This 650 sq km (253 sq mi) sanctuary, in the easternmost part of the kingdom, is unique as the only reserve in the world created specifically to protect the habitat of the yeti, known in Bhutan as the migoi (strong man). The migoi differs from yetis found (or not) in other Himalayan regions. Its body is covered in hair that may be anything from reddish-brown to black, but it's face is hairless. It smells pretty bad apparently and has the power to become invisible, which explains why so few people have seen it. Another feature which helps the elusive, hairy fella escape detection is that many have their feet backwards confusing possible trackers.
The village, or goemba, of Sakteng is the place you need to be to jump into the wilderness of the Wildlife Sanctuary. Head to Trashigang, and then drive the extra 60km (37mi) to the border of eastern Bhutan, a total distance from Thimpu of 660km (211mi).
Laya, in the far north-west of Bhutan, is one of the kindom's highest villages at 3700m (12,136ft), under the daunting peak of Masagang. A group known as Layap, comprising about 800 people with their own language, customs and dress, live here. The village women strike dashing figures, wearing peculiar conical bamboo hats with a bamboo spike at the top, held on by beaded bands. They dress in black woollen jackets with silver trim and a long woollen skirt striped in natural earth colours. They adorn themselves with lots of silver jewellery which often includes an array of teaspoons. The women often stage an evening cultural show which consists of a lot circle dancing accompanied by traditional Layap folk songs.
Without a helicopter the only way to get to Laya is on foot. The Laya-Gasa pass is part of the Snowman Trek, one of the most difficult and demanding treks in the world.
Rugged mountains, enchanting valleys, meandering rivers, crystal lakes, dense forests and the unspoilt virginity of nature make Bhutan a trekkers' paradise. While roughing it on spindly trails without anything resembling comfort might seem like an odd way to spend your US$200 a day, trekking is the ideal way to experience rural Bhutanese culture and unspoilt wilderness.
There is no personal equipment available in Bhutan, and nowhere to rent a sleeping bag, so bring your own. Trek operators will provide guides, pack animals, foam mattresses, eating utensils, and kitchen equipment. Trek routes range from the relatively easy three-dayers to veritable expeditions lasting over three weeks.
Though rafting in Bhutan is in its infancy, experts who have scouted the rivers say that is has the potential for some of the best rafting on earth. The fees are the same for normal tourists and trekkers, and there are several specialist companies already offering river programmes on rivers ranging from class 3-5. The outstanding ones are Mo Chhu, upstream of Punakha in eastern Bhutan, and the Ema Datse Canyon on the Mangde Chhu in central Bhutan.
There are only two entry points to Bhutan: most travellers arrive by air at Paro, some arrive by road at Phuentsholing on the southern border with India. In any event you have to fly by the national carrier, Druk Air, either in or out. Druk Air has no interline agreements with other carriers so you will need to arrange your own ticket to and from wherever you connect with them as they are the only airline who fly into Bhutan. The flight from Kathmandu to Paro provides the most dramatic view of Himalayan scenery of any scheduled flight. Be sure to get a window on the left side for maximum visual effect.
Druk Air won't issue your ticket until they have received your 'visa clearance' from TAB. Without competition they can afford to be expensive, and they are. On arrival at Paro airport, the clerk will miraculously find your clearance and issue your visa, then away you go.
Paro Airport is less than two hours from Thimphu. Your prearranged vehicle will probably take you directly there from the airport. Departure tax from Paro is about US$7.
The best way to plan a trip by road is to start in Kathmandu, perhaps visiting Darjeeling and Sikkim en route.
Because Bhutan has no domestic air service, possesses no helicopters, and does not include an inch of railway track, the only way to see the place is by foot or by road. If you're on a normal tourist visa, your tour operator will provide all your transportation. If you're working on a government project or are an Indian national you will have to rely on public transport. Good luck! Public buses are crowded and rough and the winding roads make them perversely uncomfortable.
If you don't already have a vehicle at your disposal, it's possible to hire one with a driver through a travel agency. TAB are interested in promoting mountain biking in Bhutan and this would be a great way to explore, especially around the Thimphu and Paro valleys. Hopefully bikes will be available for rent in the near future. For the meantime, taxis operate without meters and fares are very much open to negotiation, and sometimes exploitation.
- So Close to Heaven, The Vanishing Buddhist Kingdoms of the Himalayas by Barbara Crossette is an excellent account of Bhutan's history and culture. The author is a New York Times correspondent who has spent considerable time in Bhutan and other Himalayan regions. Published in 1995, the book discusses some of the current development and political problems facing Bhutan.
- Dreams of the Peaceful Dragon is a traveller's account of a walk across Bhutan in the 1970s, before the road between Bumthang and Mongar was completed. It gives a good picture of trekking in Bhutan.
- Joanna Lumley in the Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon is by Joanna Lumley, the co-star of the BBC programme Absolutely Fabulous. Her grandfather was a political officer in Sikkim; the book is based on a TV programme that traced his trek through the country in the 1930s.
- The Raven Crown by Michael Aris is the definitive history of Bhutan's monarchy. Aris, who lived in Bhutan from 1967 to 1972, is the leading western authority on Bhutan's history. The book is lavishly illustrated with rare photographs of the early days of Bhutan that help show what a unique civilisation existed in the early 20th century.
- The Tibetan Book of Living and Dying by Sogyal Rimpoche is a translation of Guru Rimpoche's Tibetan Book of the Dead. It's a sophisticated Himalayan Buddhist text, but worth a look if you are especially interested in learning about some of Bhutan's religious foundations.
- Bhutan - Mountain Fortress of the Gods, a coffee-table book, provides documentation for a 1998 Bhutanese exhibition in Vienna. Edited by Christian Schicklgruber & Franτoise Pommaret, it has extensive illustrations and excellent information.
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