DESTINATION SWEDEN

The country that brought you ABBA, the zip, Greta Garbo and Absolut Vodka can almost be forgiven for letting the smorgasbord, the Volvo(-driver) and all those zinc-creamed tennis fans out (but not Roxette, no, never Roxette). Since the devaluation of the Swedish crown, Sweden has become quite affordable; at any rate, the simple joys of fresh air, landscape and culture are among the least extravagant and most rewarding of pleasures available to visitors. Stockholm, the country's capital, is a progressive city, though there are pockets which have a village feel (if you don't focus too much on the sleek, ubiquitous IKEA chairs). Once you get out of town, Sweden's starkly beautiful forests and giant lakes lend themselves perfectly to outdoor activities from iceskating to moose-spotting.

Map of Sweden (12K)

Facts at a Glance
Environment
History
Economy
Culture
Events
Facts for the Traveller
Money & Costs
When to Go

Attractions
Off the Beaten Track
Activities
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Recommended Reading
Lonely Planet Guides
Travellers' Reports on Europe
On-line Info

Facts at a Glance

Full country name: The Kingdom of Sweden
Area: 450,000 sq km (175,500 sq mi)
Population: 8.9 million
Capital city: Stockholm (pop: 1 million)
People: 90% Swedes; 3% Finns; 0.15% Sami (native inhabitants)
Language: Swedish, but English is widely spoken
Religion: Lutheran
Government: Constitutional monarchy
Prime Minister: Goran Persson

Environment

Sweden is the biggest sausage in the Scandinavian sizzle, covering an area of 450,000 sq km (175,500 sq mi). The dominant characteristics of the landscape can be attributed to glacial activity, with the rocky south-west coast along the Baltic Sea and the Stockholm archipelago on the south-east coast most notable for their fjords and skerries. Lubbers rue that it doesn't get much drier inland, with about 100,000 lakes plugged into Sweden. The islands of Öland and Gotland, south of Stockholm, consist of flat limestone, but they're sand-fringed and have been turned into beachy retreats for urban escapees. Norrland (a practical term for the northern 60% of the country) is sparsely populated, comprising a near uniform expanse of forest, river and rapid. Norway provides a natural frontier to the west on the other side of Skanderna, Sweden's modest mountain range. Sweden's highest peak is the glacier-capped northern peak of Mt Kebnekaise at 2111m (6924ft).

Moose, deer and fox are common throughout Sweden and, of all Sweden's wild creatures, these are the ones you're most likely to spot, though hopefully not as they come through your windscreen. Wolf, lynx and brown bear populations have suffered at the hands of encroaching agriculture and eager hunters, but are making a comeback in some western provinces and the mountain regions. Wolverine survive in the mountains only by preying on domestic livestock, making no friends with farmers in their fight against extinction. Varied bird life twitters, flutters and swoops from seaside to snowline, with the kingfisher perhaps the most beautiful, and the woodpecker the best at carpentry. The northern lakes and streams are choice places to spot Sweden's fisherfolk boasting about big 'uns of the salmon trout clan.

Sunshine junkies should visit Sweden between late May and late July, scooting out before the August rains. Monthly average temperatures in Stockholm are highest in July at about 17°C (63°F), when you can rely on nine hours of tan time. The average temperature in the northern mountains at this time is about 11°C (52°F), but you should be prepared for occasional sub-zero temperatures and snow falls, even in summer; the range of temperatures north of the Gulf of Bothnia is almost 30°C (86°F). Sweden's northern latitude means that it never gets really dark from mid-May to late July, with the trade-off being a pervasive December dimness. Annual rainfall is greatest around Gothenburg at well over 700mm (28in) and falls mainly as snow in Lapland, blanketing the region for 200 days of the year. Many coastal ports are frozen all winter, while the Stockholm archipelago can be iced in for a couple of months.

History

Written records survive only from late in the Middle Ages. But the number and variety of fortifications, assembly places, votive sites and graves is impressive. Humankind and metallurgy made late appearances and only in the Bronze Age, after the arrival of Indo-Europeans, was there rich trade. The country's early cultural life is still vividly represented in the hällristningar (rock paintings) that survive in many parts of Sweden. In the Mälaren valley, the first known trading posts were established and monuments with runic inscriptions appeared.

The Viking Age was getting under way by the 9th century, and vast repositories of Roman, Byzantine and Arab coins attest to the wealth and power Swedish Vikings accumulated over the next century. Vikings travelled mostly to the east, making their mark in Russia, as well as trading with (and pillaging) Byzantine territories. Pagan gods and slightly more earthbound kings held sway over the domestic population, with Christianity only taking root in the 11th century. Internal squabbles whiled away the bulk of the Middle Ages until Denmark interceded in 1397, when, together with Norway, they joined Sweden in the Union of Kalmar. A century of Swedish nationalist grumblings erupted in rebellion under Gustaf Vasa, who was crowned in 1523. Gustaf then set about introducing religious reform and a powerful centralised nation-state. A period of expansion resulted in Sweden's control over much of Finland and the Baltic countries.

In 1809, the unrestricted power vested in the monarch was undone by aristocratic revolt and Finland was lost to Russia. The same year, Sweden produced a constitution that divided legislative powers between king and Riksdag (parliament). The post of ombudsman appeared as a check on the powers of the bureaucracy. In 1814 the military enforcement of the union with Norway was Sweden's last involvement with war.

Industry arrived late but was based on efficient steelmaking and the safety match, a Swedish invention. Iron-ore mining, important for at least 300 years, and then steel manufacture, began to expand, creating a prosperous middle class. But an 1827 statute, which scattered the agricultural villages of much of Sweden's countryside, had more immediate and far-reaching effects - the old social fabric disappeared. By 1900 almost one in four Swedes lived in cities and industry (based on timber, precision machinery and hardware) was on the upswing. In this environment the working class was radicalised.

Sweden declared itself neutral at the outbreak of WW I and was governed bilaterally until 1917. But food shortages caused unrest and consensus was no longer possible. For the first time a social democratic government took control. The social democrats dominated politics after 1932, reworking the liberal tendencies of the 1920s to join economic intervention with the introduction of a welfare state. These trends were scarcely interrupted until the 1970s when economic pressures began to cloud Sweden's social goals. It was then that support for social democracy first wavered, looking particularly shaky after the 1986 assassination of Prime Minister Olof Palme and its murky aftermath.

The political breeze shifted to the right in 1991 when a Moderate-led coalition won power. The experiment with rightist economics and the move to EU membership left many Swedes uncertain and disillusioned, allowing the social democrats to sneak back to form a minority government in 1994. The social democrats suffered further losses in the 1995 elections, but have managed to cling to power under Prime Minister Göran Persson who relies on the support of the Centre Right party or the Greens. In late 1996, 10 years after Palme's assassination, a leader of a South African hit-squad accused a former Rhodesian soldier of Palme's murder, citing him as a mercenary - Palme was a tireless critic of South Africa's apartheid policies.

Economic Profile

GDP: US$219 billion
GDP per head: US$25,000
Annual growth: 0.8%
Inflation: 2%
Major industries: Timber, iron, vehicles, communications, ball-bearings
Major trading partners: EU, US

Culture

The best known members of Sweden's artistic community have been writers: chiefly the influential dramatist and author August Strindberg and the widely translated children's writer Astrid Lindgren, creator of Pippi Longstocking. The Gustavian balladry of Carl Michael Bellman, rarely heard outside Scandinavia, speaks directly to the Swedish soul. Vilhelm Moberg, a representative of 20th century proletarian literature, won international acclaim with The Immigrants and The Emigrants. Carl von Linné was an 18th century scientist who made pioneering field studies of plant species using Latin names. Still better known is Alfred Nobel, first patron of the Nobel Institute and the coveted international prizes.

Swedish is a Germanic language, belonging to the Nordic branch, and is spoken throughout Sweden and in parts of Finland. Swedes, Danes and Norwegians can, however, make themselves mutually understood since their languages are similar. Most Swedes speak English as a second language, so lazy tongues can get away without wrapping themselves round those Swedish vowels. Sweden has a Lutheran state church, which all citizens in principle join (in fact about 95% of citizens are members). The state, however, guarantees religious freedom.

Hungry Swedes tuck into fish which is usually poached or fried in lard. Pickled herring is especially popular and the potato is basically indispensable. As well as being the vegetable of ubiquity, spuds are critically important in the production of excellent Swedish aquavit. Strong beer, wines and spirits are sold by the state monopoly Systembolaget at outlets in the cities and towns, which are open weekdays. You must normally decide what you want from price lists and displays and then take a number and wait: Friday afternoon queues can be long.

Events

Midsummer, held at summer solstice, is Sweden's most enthusiastically celebrated festival. Pagan rites, such as maypole dancing, mingle with public holiday tie-loosening and liberal helpings of schnapps. The Lucia festival (13 December) has only been celebrated for about 60 years but has become very popular. As well as commemorating the martyrdom of a pious Sicilian girl, Lucia celebrates the coming of Christmas with processions of robed youngsters, plenty of glögg (a hot alcoholic fruit punch) for the grownups, and singing. Christmas trees are decorated with straw animals and stars, cookie baking begins, and Santa Claus makes his final assessments of children's behaviour and does the last minute shopping. Santa obviously favours Swedish kids as he delivers presents in person rather than just chucking them down the chimney. Most households serve up ham at Christmas time, and many families still partake in the tradition of 'dipping in the pot' when slices of bread are soaked in ham juices.

New Year's Eve is a highly social time when friends get together, often setting off fireworks. Easter in Sweden incorporates the pagan belief that witches hang out with the devil in hell for the duration. Kids dressed up as witches doorknock houses in their neighbourhood, scamming lollies in exchange for drawings. Walpurgis Night (30 April) is a pagan festival which celebrates the end of winter with bonfires and fireworks. May Day (1 May) is observed by marches and labour movement events.

Facts for the Traveller

Visas: Stays of up to 90 days are usually visa free, but citizens of South Africa, Hong Kong residents with Chinese passports and residents of many African, Asian, South American and some Eastern European countries should check requirements with Swedish embassies.
Health risks: None
Time: GMT/UTC plus 1 hour
Electricity: 220V 50Hz
Weights & measures: Metric (see the conversion table.)
Tourism: 6 million visitors per year

Money & Costs

Currency: Krona
Relative costs:

cheap meal: US$7
restaurant meal: US$15
cheap bed: US$15
hotel room: US$50-90

Sweden's very expensive, but it can be bearable if you're careful. If you bring a tent or stay in hostels, buy travel passes, eat at buffets and keep off the booze you might be able to get by on US$40 a day, but you'll be pushing it. Double that budget and you can eat a good meal at least once a day, stay in hotels, visit museums and travel around a bit.

You should encounter few problems if you carry cash in any convertible currency or travellers cheques of international brands. If you've got a credit card or a Cirrus card, bring it - ATMs all over the country will accept it. Forex do cheap and easy currency conversions, though they'll charge you a fair bit more for travellers cheques.

When to Go

If you want sunshine, visit between late May and late July, bearing in mind that August can be wet. Many youth hostels, camping grounds and attractions open only in summer, from late June to mid-August. Summer in Sweden can be hot, sunny and beautiful, but travel in winter should be better planned and restricted. Big cities are in full swing all year round.

Attractions

Stockholm

The medieval town of Stockholm expanded along the Baltic Sea, where an archipelago of 24,000 islands, skerries and lumps of rock have protected it from the open seas, making it ideally situated for trade and maritime activities. Most of the land masses are uninhabited, although the popularity of the area for boating means it can be hard finding anchorage in high summer. The Stockholm archipelago endures up to 20 cm (8in) of ice through most of the winter. The city is best seen from the water, but you'll enjoy seeing the parklands of Djurgården or the alleys of Gamla Stan on foot.

Gamla Stan, situated on the island of Stadsholmen, is Stockholm's old town, which emerged in the 13th century. Its medieval streets are linked by a fantasy of lanes, arches and stairways. The present Royal Palace was completed in 1760, replacing the original, which was burned down in the 17th century. Today its apartments and armoury offer an excellent insight into the past. East of the city, the larger island of Djurgården offers wonderful parklands and a concentration of fine museums. One not to miss is Skansen, the world's first open-air museum, where exhibits from all over Sweden give it a rural feel. Skansen also includes a zoo, aquarium, forestry pavilion and a tobacco museum. On the western shore of Djurgården is the famous Vasamuseet, which grants you a look into the lives of 17th-century sailors. It's also a brilliant achievement in marine archaeology.

There are a number of hostels in central Stockholm, but the boat hostels moored at Skeppsholmen and south of Gamla Stan are increasingly popular. The city centre has a number of inexpensive to mid-priced restaurants offering a good variety of meals. Kungsgatan, east of the city centre, is the place to point your dancing shoes.

Off the Beaten Track

Jokkmokk

The village of Jokkmokk, just north of the Arctic Circle, started as a Sami market and mission, and is now a centre of revitalised Sami culture. The Sami winter fair takes place early in February, when you can shop seriously for handicrafts worked in the traditional bold blue, red and yellow. There's a museum here which has excellent information on the mountainous interior, should you be thinking of plunging further north, and a restaurant which does a nice line in reindeer sandwiches. Jokkmokk is a good place to come and see the midnight sun, but don't let your enthusiasm outdo your eyesight: the sun is always dangerous to look at. Summer visitors who are particularly brave pretend to enjoy a bracing dip in the river; the more sensible stick to dangling trout lines in Jokkmokk's central lake. Jokkmokk is relatively isolated, and you should book accommodation well in advance if arriving at winter fair time. Public transport access is via the Inlandsbanan rail connection: get off at nearby Malmbanan and take the bus.

Fulufjället

The hills around the mountain of Fulufjället, west of Särna, feed Njupeskär, Sweden's tallest waterfall at 100m (328ft). The drive from Särna towards the Norwegian border is fantastic, passing through some rugged and beautiful country on its way to the nature reserve. About 30km (19mi) from Särna the road turns into a mountain trail and proceeds about 2km (1mi) to the falls at the edge of the ancient forest. For some extra guidance, maps are available at the tourist office at Särna.

Sareks National Park

The magical landscape of Sareks National Park covers an area of 2000 sq km (780 sq mi). It comprises 100 glaciers and countless peaks, a handful of which are over 2000m (6560ft) high. This is beautiful yet demanding country, only for the tough and experienced (who will need to do their homework thoroughly). Perhaps the best views are over the lake and delta of Laiture on the Rapa älv, not far from the eastern boundary of the park. There are no huts and few bridges, but the route is popular with experienced hikers, who take a week or more to get in and out. The most common entry point is from the south from Kvikkjokk Fjällstation, which is serviced by bus from Jokkmokk.

Activities

Getting out and about in Sweden is largely dictated by the weather. When winter hits, there is skating wherever the ice is thick enough. Stockholm's lake and canal system is exploited by the local children and enthusiasts seeking the longest possible 'run'. Downhill and cross-country skiing are popular at the resorts around Siljan and at the ski centres of Västmanland and Stockholm. Cycling around the flat lakes country of Skåne or on Öland and Gotland islands becomes an especially attractive option when Sweden thaws out. If you'd rather be on the water, there are heaps of canoeing possibilities from the excellent areas on the lakes to the exciting northern river rapids.

Hiking and orienteering are popular everywhere, with many families forming orienteering teams for weekend competitions. Sareks National Park is probably Sweden's most spectacular area for hiking, but is recommended for experienced hikers only. Beach umbrellas may be less useful than ear muffs here, but Sweden does have some good swimming beaches, especially east of Uppsala. Diving is popular along the eastern coast where it's possible to swim close to resident seal populations. Viewing the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) is most spectacular from the mountains in the north. And if this all sounds a bit ho-hum, there's talk of a sunken wreck somewhere off the south-eastern coast laden with treasure from the Thirty Years War. Stop complaining about the price of a beer and go salvage!

Getting There & Away

The main international airport is Arlanda, half an hour's bus ride north of Stockholm. There are daily services to and from most European capitals. Most flights from North American and Asian centres fly through Copenhagen where you may have to change planes. An airport tax of 14 kr is included in ticket prices. Buses and trains link up with ferries to provide services to and from Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Norway, Germany, Poland, Estonia and the UK. Swedish ports of entry include Gothenburg, Helsingborg, Malmö and Stockholm, although ferries from north-western Finland head straight for Umeå and Skellefteå in northern Sweden and services to Germany leave from Trelleborg.

Getting Around

Daily domestic flights crisscross the country, but Sweden's extensive bus and train systems render flying unnecessary unless you're really pressed for time. Trains are the basis of Swedish transport outside cities, serving regional centres more quickly than buses. Buses are often the only option once you get off the beaten track. Swedish roads are of a high standard, marred only by their popularity with moose, reindeer and elk around dawn and dusk. You need only a recognised full licence to drive in Sweden: an international licence is unnecessary unless you want to rent a car. Women should ask for discounts in Stockholm taxis at night. The motorways are not open to cyclists but the long, specially designed and scenic cycle routes are better anyway. Archipelago boats sail around Stockholm and Gothenburg, and steamers on lakes such as Vättern, Siljan and Torneträsk in Lapland make popular summer cruises and handy links if you are cycling or walking. Skippering your own boat can be perilous, given the dramatic changes in water level. Expect to encounter difficulties upon the slightest divergence from marked channels.