Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Norway
Area: 324,220 sq km
Population: 4,326,000
Capital city: Oslo (pop 465,000)
People: 97% Nordic, Alpine & Baltic, with a Lapp minority
Language: Bokmål & Nynorsk
Religion: Christian (93% Evangelical Lutheran)
Government: Constitutional democracy
Prime Minister: Kjell Magne Bondevik
Norway occupies the western part of the Scandinavian peninsula and shares borders with Sweden, Finland and Russia. Shaped like the rind on the bacon rasher of Scandinavia, Norway has a long coastline pierced by fjords and a mountainous interior that is blanketed by some of Europe's largest glaciers. Over 500 sq km of Norway lies north of the Artic Circle, but the country's western coast usually remains ice free year-round thanks to the warm waters of the Gulf Stream.
Only 3% of Norway is arable. Some 27% remains forested, though acid rain is affecting forests thanks to pollutants pumped into the atmosphere by Russia, Germany and the UK. Fauna includes reindeer, wolves and lemmings. Many of Norway's 30,000 Lapps live a traditional nomadic life herding reindeer in the far north. The paucity of productive farmland has focused Norwegian attention on the sea, and commercial fishing plays an important role both in the economy and the social fabric of the nation. Norway resumed commercial whaling of minke whales in 1993 in defiance of an international whaling ban.
Reality Check
Norway's coastal areas have a surprisingly temperate climate thanks to the Gulf Stream, but mountainous inland regions experience more extreme ranges of temperatures and the northern highlands suffer Artic conditions. The country is at its best and brightest from May to September, and at its worst between November and March when average temperatures are below freezing. Midnight-sun days, when the sun never drops below the horizon, extend from 14 May to 30 July at Nordkapp in the far north, and from 23 May to 17 July in the Lofoten islands. Even southern Norway has daylight from 4 am to 11 pm in midsummer. On the other hand, the sun does not rise in the north from the end of November to the end of January, which is fine if you're angst-ridden, bed-ridden or vampiric.
Norway's first settlers arrived over 10,000 years ago at the end of the Ice Age. These early hunters and gatherers followed the glaciers as they retreated north, pursuing migratory reindeer herds. The country's greatest impact on history was during the Viking Age, a period thought to have begun with the plundering of England's Lindisfarne monastery by Nordic pirates in 793 AD. Over the next century, the Vikings made raids throughout Europe, establishing settlements along the way. Viking leader Harald Fairhair unified Norway around 900 and King Olaf, adopting the religion of the lands he had conquered, converted the people to Christianity a century later. The Vikings were great sailors and became the first to cross the Atlantic Ocean. Eric the Red, the son of a Norwegian exiled to Iceland, colonised Greenland in 982. In 1001, Eric's Icelandic son, Leif Eriksson, became possibly the first European to explore the coast of North America when he sailed off course on a voyage from Norway to Greenland. However, the Viking Age came to an end in 1066 when the Norwegian king Harald Hardrada was routed at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in England.
In the 13th century Oslo emerged as a centre of power. It continued to flourish until the mid-14th century when bubonic plague decimated its population. In 1380 Norway was absorbed into a union with Denmark which lasted over 400 years. Norway was ceded to Sweden in 1814. That same year a defiant Norway - fed up with forced unions - adopted its own constitution, but its struggle for independence was quelled by a Swedish invasion. In the end, Norwegians were allowed to keep their new constitution but were forced to accept the Swedish king. Growing nationalism eventually led to Norway's peaceful secession from Sweden in 1905. Norwegians subsequently voted in favour of a monarchy over a republic and selected Prince Carl of Denmark to be king. Upon acceptance, he took the title Håkon VII and named his infant son Olav, both prominent names in Norway's Viking past.
Norway stayed neutral during both world wars but was occupied by the Nazis in 1940. King Håkon set up a government in exile and placed most of Norway's huge merchant fleet under the command of the Allies. An active Resistance movement fought tenaciously against the Nazis, who responded by razing nearly every town and village in northern Norway during their retreat. The royal family returned at the end of the war.
In 1960 Norway joined the European Free Trade Association but has been reluctant to forge closer bonds with other nations, partly due to concerns about its ability to preserve small-scale farming and fishing. North Sea oil and natural gas finds brought prosperity to the country in the 1970s, and Norway has since achieved one of the highest standards of living in the world. It is now applying for membership in the EU, a procedure that requires a national referendum. A no-vote in a 1994 referendum sent shock waves through European governments who were attempting to `sell' the Maastricht treaty to their citizens. EU membership is a hot topic in Norway, but resistance is still strong across the political spectrum.
GDP: US$110 billion
GDP per head: US$25,800
Annual growth: 2.5%
Inflation: 3%
Major industries: Oil and natural gas, fishing, shipbuilding & paper production
Major trading partners: UK, Germany & Sweden
Norwegian architecture is renowned for its unique stave churches - among the oldest wooden buildings on earth - which have one foot in the Viking Age and the other in the 11th-century early Christian era. Norway holds on to many of its cultural traditions and it's not uncommon to see elaborate folk costumes worn at weddings and other festive events. Traditional folk dancing, singing and storytelling (often featuring trolls) are also popular. The country has produced a wealth of artistic talent including the painter Edvard Munch, composer Edvard Grieg, sculptor Gustav Vigeland and playwright Henrik Ibsen. Norway has also produced three winners of the Nobel Prize for Literature: Bjornstjerne Bjornson, Sigrid Undset and Knud Hamsun.
Norwegian dishes include laks (grilled or smoked salmon), reker (boiled shrimp) and torsk (cod). Popular at Christmas time is lutefisk (dried cod made near-gelatinous by smoking in lye), which is definitely an acquired taste. A common sight on most breakfast tables is sweet brown goat cheese called geitost and pickled herring. Alcohol may be hard to find in some rural communities where virtual prohibition is the norm.
The country's biggest holiday is Constitution Day (17 May), when many Norwegians take to the streets attired in traditional folk costumes. Another popular holiday is Midsummer's Eve (usually held on 23 June) which is celebrated with bonfires on the beach. The Sami people (Lapps) also hold colourful celebrations at Easter in Karasjok and Kautokeino. Festivities include reindeer races, joik (traditional chanting) and concerts.
Visas: Citizens of the USA, Canada, the UK, Australia and New Zealand do not require visas for stays of less than three months.
Health risks: None
Time: GMT/UTC plus one hour
Electricity: 220V, 50-60 Hz
Weights & measures: Metric (see the conversion table.)
Money & Costs
Currency: Krone (Nkr)
Relative costs:
- budget room: US$40-60
- moderate hotel: US$75-125
- top-end hotel: US$200-300
- budget meal: US$8-10
- moderate restaurant meal: US$15-25
- top-end restaurant meal: US$30 and upward
Norway can be very expensive, but if you tighten your belt there are ways to take out some of the sting. If you use only camping grounds and prepare your own meals you might squeak by for under US$30 a day. If you stay at hostels, breakfast at a bakery, lunch at an inexpensive restaurant and shop at a grocery store for dinner, you should be able to get by for US$45 a day. If you stay at 'cheap' hotels that include a buffet breakfast, have one meal at a moderately priced restaurant and snack for the other meal, expect to spend US$60 a day. This is still pretty bare-bones - entertainment, alcohol and transport costs are all extra.
Post offices and banks exchange major foreign currencies and accept all travellers' cheques. Some banks charge a fee per cheque so you'll save money bringing travellers' cheques in higher denominations. ATMs are widespread and all major credit cards are widely accepted.
Services charges and tips are included in restaurant bills and taxi fares with no additional tip expected. Bargaining is not a common practice in Norway.
When to Go
Norway is at its best and brightest from May to September. Late spring is a particularly pleasant time - fruit trees are in bloom, daylight hours are long, and most hostels and sights are open but uncrowded.
Unless you're heavily into winter skiing or searching for the Aurora Borealis of the polar nights, Norway's cold dark winters are not the prime time to visit. Midnight-sun days, when the sun never drops below the horizon, extend from 13 May to 29 July and from 28 May to 14 July in the Lofoten islands.
Oslo
Oslo sits at the head of the Oslofjord, an inlet of the Skagerrak. It is the oldest of the Scandinavian capitals, having been founded by Harald Hardrada in 1050. After being levelled by fire in 1624, the city was rebuilt in brick and stone by King Christian IV, who renamed it Christiania - a name which stuck until 1925 when it reverted back to Oslo.
Despite being Norway's largest city, Oslo is remarkably low-key. The city centre is a pleasant jumble of old and new architecture with an abundance of museums, parks and monuments. It's also a remarkably easy city to get around with most sights within walking distance of the centre or effortlessly reached by public transport.
A must see in Oslo is the Akershus Fortress, a medieval fortress and castle built around 1300. The Akershus Castle is especially memorable and contains dungeons possessing dark little cubby holes where the nobiliary were kept under lock and key; plush upper floors with banquet halls and staterooms; and the chapel, still used for royal events, which holds the crypts of King Håkon VII and Olav V. During WW II the Nazis used Akershus as a prison and place of execution, and today it's the site of Norway's Resistance Museum, which gives a vivid account of German occupation and the Norwegian struggle against it. The site is surrounded by park-like grounds, offering excellent views of the city and harbour. There are concerts, dances and theatrical productions held here during summer.
Vigeland Park is a wonderful expanse of greenery, duck ponds and rows of shady trees - the ideal place for leisurely strolls and picnics on the lawn. Its central walkway is flanked with life-size statues by Gustav Vigeland, a prolific artist who presented the human form in a range of emotions and poses. Probably the most impressive piece is a monolith of writhing bodies, believed to be the world's largest granite sculpture. For a more in-depth look at the development of Vigeland's work, check out the Vigeland Museum across from the park. Other artistic shrines include the National Theatre, with its lavish Rococo hall, which was built a century ago to stage Ibsen's plays; and the Munch Museum, which contains more than 5000 drawings and paintings bequeathed to the city by Norway's most famous artist. Munch's most famous painting, The Scream, resides in the National Gallery, though it went for a short, unexpected holiday in 1994.
A 10-minute ferry ride across the harbour takes you to Bygdøy. This peninsula has some of Oslo's most outstanding attractions including Norway's largest open-air folk museum; maritime museums housing excavated Viking ships and Thor Heyerdahl's balsa raft Kon-Tiki; restored stave churches; and a couple of good beaches. Also easily reached by public transport is the Nordmarka, a wilderness area on Oslo's northern border, which is crossed by hiking and skiing trails.
The majority of Oslo's budget accommodation and eateries can be found in or close to the city centre. Karl Johans gate, the main street, is lined with shops, and is a popular haunt for buskers. Oslo's nightlife includes the usual mix of theatres, live music, discos, clubs, pubs, gay bars and drag shows.
This cluster of historic white houses built around a small fishing harbour is one of Norway's most picturesque villages. It's popular with artists and tourists, and is a summer hangout for Norway's yachties. Visits to nearby islands can be made by inexpensive water taxis. One such island is Stangholmen, which has an old lighthouse with a restaurant and bar. Risør is on the curving southern coast, south of Oslo.
The central part of Norway takes in the country's highest mountains, largest glacier and most spectacular fjords. Unsurprisingly, this region is the top destination for almost all travellers to the country.
The historic city of Bergen, with its cultured atmosphere and low skyline of red-tiled roofs, is the main jumping-off point for journeys into the western fjords. From here you can visit Sognefjord, Norway's longest (200km) and deepest (1300m) fjord; the scenic Hardangerfjord; the massive Jostedalsbreen glacier; spectacular waterfalls at Geirangerfjord; and Trollveggen, a jagged and often cloud-shrouded summit near Åndalsnes that is considered the ultimate challenge among Norwegian mountain climbers. In addition, there are resorts, an excellent national park, and road trips through some of Norway's most breathtaking scenery. Don't miss the 470km train journey on the Oslo-Bergen railway: this scenic trip is Norway's finest, and passes through mountain ranges and the windswept Hardanger plateau.
The `Gateway to the Artic' is a stark contrast to the sober communities dotting the northern coast of Norway. It's a spirited town with street music, cultural happenings and more pubs per capita than any other place in the country. Snow-capped mountains provide the scenic backdrop, the town has a swag of period buildings and the Tromsø Museum is a good place to learn about Lapp culture. There's also fine skiing here in winter.
Jotunheimen National Park
This national park is one of Norway's best wilderness destinations. It has a network of hiking trails leading to some 60 glaciers and to the country's loftiest peaks. The trails pass through ravine-like valleys and past deep lakes and plunging waterfalls. Huts and private lodgings are along many of the routes. The park is on the road between Sogndal and Lom, in central Norway.
Å
This fishing village on the Lofoten island of Moskenes is intriguingly named and well-preserved. It boasts a shoreline of red rorbu, plenty of cod drying on racks, and postcard-perfect scenes at every turn. Many of the village's buildings have been set aside as the Norwegian Fishing Village Museum, complete with old boats and boathouses, a period bakery, storehouses and so on. Nearby is Moskenesstraumen, a maelstrom with a mighty whirlpool which inspired tales by Jules Verne and Edgar Allen Poe.
This 10,000-strong fishing town claims to be the northernmost town in the world. If its name sounds familiar, it's the place Bill Bryson hung around at the start of Neither Here Nor There waiting to be gobsmacked by the Northern Lights. While you're waiting for this celestial display of psychedelia, check out the Royal & Ancient Polar Bear Society and the reindeer grazing in the Hammerfest graveyard.
Norway has thousands of km of maintained cross-country ski trails and scores of resorts with downhill ski runs, including the Holmenkollen area on the outskirts of Oslo, Geilo, Lillehammer and the surrounding Gudbrandsdalen region. If you're a summer skier, head for the glaciers near Finse, Stryn or the Jotunheimen mountains. Norway's vast wilderness areas mean you can go mountain climbing in the Åndalsnes, birdwatching in the Lofoten islands of Røst and Værøy, and glacier hiking in Nigardsbreen near Sogndal. Other good hiking spots are the Jotunheimen and Rondane mountains and the Hardanger plateau. Norway also has good saltwater and freshwater fishing.
International airlines link Oslo with most major European cities. Bergen, Stavanger and Trondheim also have international airports. There is no departure tax when leaving Norway. Trains run daily from Oslo to Copenhagen in Denmark and to Helsingborg and Stockholm in Sweden. There are also trains to Stockholm from Trondheim and Narvik. Numerous highways and secondary roads link Norway with Finland and Sweden. A bus and a catamaran service link Kirkenes in northern Norway with Murmansk in Russia. There are also ferries to/from Denmark, Sweden, the UK, Iceland and the Faroe Islands.
Norway's main domestic airlines - SAS, Braathens SAFE and Widerøe Norsk Air - fly to nearly 50 airports scattered across the country. Distances are great in Norway, which means air travel should be considered even by budget travellers. Norway also has an extensive bus network, with routes connecting every main city as well as more remote areas. The national rail system is good, though somewhat limited, with main lines running from Oslo to Stavanger, Bergen, Åndalsnes and Bodø. Major car-rental companies have offices at airports and city centres but rates are expensive. Given its great distances, hilly terrain and narrow roads, Norway is not ideally suited for cycling. The one bonus for cyclists is that traffic is very light. A far-reaching system of ferries and express boats link Norway's offshore islands, coastal towns and fjord districts. For more than a century, the coastal steamer Hurtigruten has been the lifeline linking the tiny fishing communities scattered along the northern coast. A ship heads north from Bergen every night calling at 33 ports on the six-day journey to Kirkenes. Local transport in the cities and towns is generally efficient and served mainly by public buses. Oslo also has an underground rail system, trams and ferries.
- A Brief History of Norway by John Midgaard covers Norwegian history from prehistoric to modern times. The Vinland Sagas: The Norse Discovery of America (translated by Magnusson/Palsson) tell of the discovery of America before the arrival of Columbus. A good accompaniment to both these works is The Viking World by James Graham-Campbell, which traces the history of the Vikings by detailing excavated sites and artefacts. The photos are excellent.
- Norwegian works of literature include Kristin Lavransdatter by Sigrid Undset, a trilogy that portrays the struggles of a 13th-century Norwegian family; Hunger and Mysteries by Knud Hamsun, which delves into the troubled aspect of the human character; a number of Henrik Ibsen's classics, such as A Doll's House, Peer Gynt and Ghosts; and the contemporary international success Sophie's World by Jostein Gaarder.
- Information on wilderness trails, hiking itineraries, sketch maps and details about trail huts can be found in Erling Welle-Strand's Mountain Hiking in Norway. Welle-Strand also wrote Motoring in Norway, a concise book describing the country's picturesque motor routes.
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