Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Republic of Iceland
Area: 103,000 sq km
Population: 270,000
Capital city: Reykjavík (pop 170,000)
People: 97% Icelanders
Language: Icelandic (as well as English and German)
Religion: 95% Evangelical Lutheran, 3% other Protestant denominations, 1% Roman Catholic, & some followers of Ásatrú, an ancient Norse religion
Government: Democratic republic
President: Olafur Ragnar Grimsson
Iceland, the second largest island in Europe, boils and splutters in the Atlantic Ocean north-west of Scotland, west of Norway and south-east of Greenland. The main island, which stretches 500km east to west and 300km north to south, is characterised by desert plateaus, sandy deltas, volcanoes, lava fields, and glacial icecaps. Over half the country is above 400m, with the highest point, Hvannadalshnúkur, rising 2119m. Only 21% of the land, all near the coast, is considered arable and habitable. The bulk of Iceland's population and agriculture is concentrated in the south-west between Reykjavík and Vík.
Iceland is a relatively young land mass subject to periodic rumpling by volcanic activity. Earthquakes are as exciting as breakfast here, with people only bothering to tip their fur hats to proper explosions, ones that pose an island where once there was ocean, ones that sculpt the earth anew. It's hardly surprising with all this rumbling, shaking and spouting that the landscape is remarkable devoid of trees (though, in fairness, massive reforestation means the country now enjoys a few recreational forests and patches of scrubby birch). What the country does have, however, is large expanses of tundra, grassland, bogs and barren desert. The only indigenous land mammal is the Arctic fox, although polar bears, which occasionally drift across from Greenland on ice floes, would be indigenous if they weren't considered so undesirable. Introduced animals include the reindeer, mink and field mice. The country has a wealth of birdlife, especially sea birds, and its seas are rich in marine mammals and fish. Freshwater fish are limited to eels, salmon, trout and Arctic char.
Contemplative puffins (11K)Arctic cotton (23K)
Iceland's southern and western coasts experience relatively mild winter temperatures thanks to the warm waters of the Gulf Stream, though it still tends to rain an awful lot. In January, for instance, Reykjavík enjoys an average of only three sunny days (in July, one fine day is the norm). July and August are the warmest months and, in general, the chances of fine weather improve as you move north and east. It's sunniest around Akureyri and Lake Mývatn in the central north and warmest around Egilsstaðoir in the east, yet neither place seems to be free of an uncomfortably chilly wind. While they're more prone to clear weather than the coastal areas, the interior deserts can experience other problems such as blizzards, and high winds which whip up dust and sand into swirling, gritty maelstroms.
A not-so-rare hit of sunshine in Ólafsfjördur (11K)
Iceland's first inhabitants were Irish monks, who regarded the island as a sort of hermitage until the early 9th century. They were followed by Iceland's first permanent settlers who came from Norway. This was the Age of Settlement, traditionally defined as the period between 870 and 930, when political strife on the Scandinavian mainland caused many to flee.
After escaping political strife in Scandinavia, Iceland's settlers were in no mood for a monarchy and opted instead for a parliamentary system of government. A district assembly and Althing (National Assembly) were founded, and a code of law prepared. Iceland became a Christian country in 999, which engendered some semblance of national unity at a time when squabbles were arising among its leaders and allegiances were being questioned. The country flourished during the next century, and established a thriving agrarian economy with little unrest.
Iceland then became a launching pad for explorations of the North Atlantic: Eric the Red, who grew up in Iceland as the son of a Norwegian exile, colonised Greenland in 982; and Eric's Icelandic son, Leif Eriksson, is popularly held to be the first European to explore the coast of North America - which he named Vinland the Good. One of the more reliable Icelandic sagas, however, suggests that Leif Eriksson learned of Vinland from another Icelander, Bjarni Herjolfsson, who had sighted it some 14 years earlier. Whatever the truth is, these voyages of exploration became the source material of one of Europe's great literary flowerings.
The first literary tradition to emerge was poetry, which tended to be heroic in theme. Poetry was displaced during the Saga Age of the late 12th to late 13th centuries, when epic and dramatic tales of early settlement, romance, dispute and the development of Iceland were recorded. These provided both a sense of cultural heritage for Icelandic commoners and entertaining yarns on bitterly cold winter nights.
By the early 13th century, the enlightened period of peace that had lasted 200 years came to an end. The country entered the infamous Sturlung Age, a turbulent era of political treachery and violence. The opportunistic Norwegian King Hákon Hákonarson promptly stepped in, and Iceland became a Norwegian province to be plundered mercilessly. To add insult to injury, the volcano Mt Hekla erupted in 1300, 1341 and 1389, causing widespread death and destruction. Recurring epidemics also plagued the country, and the Black Death that struck Norway in 1349 effectively cut off trade and supplies.
At the end of the 14th century, Iceland was brought under Danish rule. Disputes between church and state resulted in the Reformation of 1550, and the imposing of Lutheranism as the country's religious doctrine. Throughout the next two centuries, Iceland was crippled by rampant Danish profiteering, beset by international pirates and subject to an increasing number of natural disasters.
Denmark's grip on Iceland was broken in 1874 when Iceland drafted a constitution and was permitted to handle its own domestic matters. Iceland was released from Danish rule in 1918, making it an independent state within the Kingdom of Denmark, with Copenhagen retaining responsibility for defence and foreign affairs. However, in 1940, Denmark was occupied by Germany. Iceland realised that the Kingdom was in no position to continue overseeing its affairs and, a year later, requested independence. It was granted on 17 June 1944.
After the occupation of Denmark and Iceland's declaration of sovereignty, the island's vulnerability became a matter of concern for the Allied powers. In response, British and US troops were moved in. The Americans still remain, much to the chagrin of a growing number of Icelanders who want them out. The Brits incurred Icelandic wrath when they refused to recognise Iceland's expanded territorial fishing rights in the 1970s. For a few years, stoushes between Icelandic gunships and British warships during the so-called Cod Wars became a regular feature of the fishing season.
Clam boat and luminous dungarees (13K)
In recent years, Iceland's economy has looked shaky: fishing quotas have been cut back, unemployment has risen and the króna devalued. Clashes between environmental organisations and the Icelandic whaling industry, which split from the International Whaling Commission in 1992, also haven't helped matters. However, the economy now seems to be taking a turn for the better, while better communications and a more urban population have reduced the impact of natural disasters considerably.
Reality Check
GDP: US$6.2 billion
GDP per head: US$23,700
Annual growth: 1.7%
Inflation: 4.1%
Major industries: Fishing, aquaculture, aluminium smelting & geothermal power
Major trading partners: UK, Germany, USA & France
Superimposed on Iceland's rugged terrain is a resilient and independent culture, fashioned over the years by the descendants of the farmers and warriors who fled the tyranny of medieval Scandinavia. Their flight to a new and empty country resulted in the building of sturdy settlements and farms, and the beginning of a rich literary tradition dominated by the sagas - fact-based accounts of struggles, battles, heroics, religion and occupations - which are considered the finest of all Western medieval works. The country has also thrown up some significant contributors to modern literature, with Halldór Laxness, Iceland's best known writer, awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955. Traditional music - usually cowboy songs and tear-jerking lullabies - remains popular, while giddy international success has greeted the Sugarcubes and that band's impish former lead singer, Björk.
Although Iceland is officially Christian, the ancient Norse religion known as Ásatrú is gaining popularity, not only as a novelty but as an officially recognised sect. A sheep farmer revived Icelandic Ásatrú in the 1970s; it focuses on the natural forces and the harmony of nature represented by the ancient gods.
Lonely church, Vík, south central Iceland (16K)
Traditional Icelandic food is not as bad as it sounds: in fact several dishes are actually edible. The one glaring exception is hákarl, putrefied shark meat that has been buried for up to six months to ensure sufficient decomposition. Slightly more palatable is hrútspungur, ram's testicles pickled in whey and pressed into a cake, and svið, singed sheep head (complete with eyes) sawn in two, boiled and eaten either fresh or pickled. You could also try slátur, a mish-mash of sheep leftovers tied up in the stomach and cooked. Less bizarre foods include: harðfiskur, (haddock); bleikja, (char); lundi (puffin); and, if you haven't any objections to eating them, whale blubber, whale steaks and seal meat. The unique Icelandic treat is skyr, a yoghurt-like concoction made of pasteurised skim milk and bacteria culture. Coffee is a national institution, while beer, wine and spirits are available, though expensive. The traditional Icelandic brew is brennivín, a sort of schnapps made from potatoes and flavoured with caraway.
Off the record
The largest nationwide festival of the year is Independence Day (17 June), a time of colourful parades, street music and dancing, outdoor theatre and general merriment. Other nationwide celebrations include: Sjómannadagurinn (first week in June), which is dedicated to seafarers, and has participants competing in swimming contests, tugs-of-war and sea rescues; Midsummer (24 June), when tradition has it that Midsummer Night's dew possesses magical healing powers and that to roll in it will cure 19 different health problems; and Sumardagurinn Fyrsti (the third Thursday in April), a carnival-style celebration on the first day of summer. Among the local festivals is Pjódhátíð Vestmannaeyjar (August; Vestmannaeyjar), an earth-shaking event of immense bonfires, outdoor camping, dancing, singing, eating and getting uproariously drunk. Elsewhere in Iceland Verslunarmannahelgi (August also) is celebrated with barbecues, horse competitions, camping out, family reunions and excessive alcohol consumption.
Visas: Western Europeans and citizens of the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Hong Kong, Singapore and at least two dozen other countries do not require visas. Tourist stays are granted for up to three months, and can be easily extended at local police stations.
Health risks: Hypothermia if trekking
Time: GMT/UTC
Electricity: 220V, 50 cycles
Weights & measures: Metric (see conversion table)
Tourism: 150,000 visitors per year
Money & Costs
Currency: Króna (Ikr)
Exchange rate: US$1 = Ikr 72
Relative costs:
- Budget meal: US$5-10
- Restaurant meal: US$12-20
- Budget room: US$15-45
- Mid-range hotel: US$90+ (double)
Because just about everything must be imported, food, accommodation and transport prices in the North Atlantic are high. In fact, Iceland is generally considered second only to Japan in its ability to deplete travellers' means. If you can happily drop US$500 a day you won't encounter any problems, but those with finite means may have to put in some effort not to break the budget. If you're willing to give up some comforts and sleep in youth hostels, eat at snack bars and travel on bus passes, you'll probably be able to keep expenses down to an average of about US$35 per day. Europeans bringing a private vehicle to Iceland, especially a campervan or caravan will be able to enjoy a bit more comfort while still keeping within a reasonable budget. Petrol prices are over US$1 per litre though, so be prepared.
Foreign-denomination travellers' cheques, postal cheques and banknotes may be exchanged for Icelandic currency at any bank. A commission of about US$2.50 will be charged, regardless of the amount changed. Major credit cards are accepted at most places. Icelanders are plastic mad and use cards even for buying groceries and other small purchases.
Tipping is not required: finer restaurants will automatically add a service charge to the bill making further tipping unnecessary. Even so, those who feel compelled to tip for particularly good or friendly service will not be refused.
When to Go
Every year on August 15, someone puts on the brakes and Icelandic tourism grinds slowly to a halt. Hotels close, youth hostels and campgrounds shut down and buses stop running. Many late-summer travellers are disappointed to find that all the most popular attractions are practically inaccessible by September 15, and by September 30 it seems the country has gone into hibernation. Although it's safe to predict that the situation will change in coming years, for now it's a good idea to plan your trip with this in mind.
Reykjavík
Iceland's capital is unlike any other European city. Not only is Reykjavík (`smoky bay') the world's northernmost capital, it's also one of the newest, having established itself only in the late 19th century. Despite its name, it is now known as the `smokeless city' thanks to its incessant winds and reliance on geothermal heat. Reykjavík boasts all the trappings of a modern European city as well as an interesting old town, white-washed wooden buildings, and rows of brightly painted concrete houses. Nearly everything of interest is within walking distance of the old settlement.
Squeaky-clean Reykjavík (15K)
The Old Town, the city's hub, is a rustic area of grassy parks, lakes, markets and museums. Anyone remotely interested in Norse culture and Icelandic culture should head for the National Museum, which houses exhibits of religious and folk relics, and tools dating from the period of Settlement. The most renowned is a church door, carved around 1200, which depicts a Norse battle scene, while residing in the basement are nautical and agricultural tools and models of early fishing boats and ingenious farm implements. Immediately behind the museum is the Árni Magnússon Institute, a must-see for Saga buffs. The building contains a famous collection of works, including the Landnámabók and Njáls Saga, which were returned from Denmark to independent Iceland.
Modern Reykjavík sprawls eastward from the Old Town, and features several worthwhile attractions such as Hallgrímskirkja, an imposing church designed to resemble a mountain of lava. Although the word `tacky' may spring to mind, it's easily the city's most memorable structure. Begun in the late 1940s and completed in 1974, the church is named after Iceland's best-known poet, Hallgrímur Pétursson. You can wander its stark, light-filled interior, then take a lift to the top of a 75-metre-high tower which offers superb views of the city. On the lawn is a statue of Leif Eriksson, triumphantly identified as the `Son of Iceland, Discoverer of Vinland' (believed to be Newfoundland or Labrador). Another place with an outwardly tacky appearance is the Volcano Show. Again, don't be put off by the design; this theatre offers invaluable insights into the volcanic spectre under (or over) which Icelanders live. Here you can see dramatic film of some of the country's greatest volcanic eruptions, including one award-winning film of the birth of Surtsey, which belched and spewed its way - Exorcist-like - out of the sea in 1963. Other sights include a pleasant botanic garden, a popular recreational park, and a number of museums dedicated to the works of Iceland's leading artists.
Budget accommodation, cheap eats and bargain shopping are found in or just east of the Old Town. For entertainment, there's cinema (films are screened in their original language with Icelandic subtitles), cultural performances (theatre, opera, symphony, and dance) and light shows (sagas, Settlement and Viking extravaganzas). Runtur is a bit of a Reykjavík institution which involves trawling through the city's hip bars, live music venues and discos to make sure no-one's missing the best action.
Iceland's most visited tourist attractions are both in south central Iceland, a region renowned for its natural phenomena and historical sites. Gullfoss is a much photographed two-tiered waterfall, and when the sun is shining (which isn't often), you're likely to see a rainbow through the ample spray that forms. The site was once slated for sale to international bidders for hydroelectric development, but has since been purchased by the government and set aside as a national monument. Nearby is Haukadalur, once one of southern Iceland's great seats of learning.
Gullfoss with obligatory rainbow (11K)
Just west of Gullfoss is Geysir, an area which contains the country's best examples of spouting hot springs. The outstanding attraction is the `Great Geysir', which first began erupting in the 14th century and ceased earlier this century after thousands of tourists tried to set it off by pouring in loads of rocks and dirt. Fortunately, the Great Geysir has a stand-in - the nearby Strokkur. This spring faithfully spouts and sprays up to 20m every three minutes, but photographers will have to be quick as the eruptions last only a couple of seconds. Around the site are a number of other colourful hot springs, steaming vents, warm streams, psychedelic algae and mineral deposits.
Mývatn, in north-eastern Iceland, is considered one of the natural wonders of the world. Although most of the interesting sights are volcanic or geothermal topographical features, the reserve's centrepiece is a lovely blue lake teeming with birdlife. What's more, thanks to its location in the rain shadow of an enormous icecap, the reserve experiences some of the finest weather in Iceland. Travellers can relax and settle in, spend a week camping, or set out on excursions to the Jökulsárgljúfur National Park; the Kverkfjöll ice caves; the Askja caldera; or the Hverfell crater.
Viti crater near Mývatn (8K)
Helgafell
Helgafell is the holy mountain that figured so prominently in Icelandic history and literature. In reality, it's a 73-metre-high hill, yet it apparently still retains some of its magic, and those who follow a few simple rules while climbing it are entitled to have three wishes granted. First, you must climb the south-west slope to the temple ruins without speaking or glancing backwards. Second, the wishes must be for good and made with a guileless heart. Third, you must descend the eastern slope and never reveal your wishes to anyone. Helgafell is 5km south of Stykkishólmur, in west central Iceland.
Kerlingarskarð
The name Kerlingarskarð means `witch pass'. According to legend, this eerie place was haunted by a female troll, until she turned into a stone pillar at the foot of Kerlingarfjall, the mountain which forms the eastern side of the pass. Nearby is a lake, where the witch is believed to have fished. In the 1800s, a local resident reported seeing huge tracks leading into the water, and a number of sightings of Loch Ness-style creatures have also been reported. If you dare, it's possible to camp and explore around the lake, but the weather is often abysmal. Buses between Reykjavík and Stykkishólmur travel through the pass.
Part of the island of Grímsey, lying 41km north of the mainland, constitutes Iceland's only bit of territory within the Arctic Circle. Apart from the magical line on the map, the main reason for coming here is to admire the cliffs, which reach 100m high in some places - perfect places for bird colonies which nest on the island. Grímsey is also the home of the most avid chess players in Iceland. Historically, losing a match has often resulted in the blunderer flinging himself into the sea. After all, failure in chess was failure in life. Enthusiasm for the game has since dampened, but if asked to play, it's best not to treat the occasion too lightly.
The immense 50 sq km Askja caldera is as remote as things come in Iceland. Cold, windy and forbidding, the site also provides ample evidence of the creative power of nature. The cataclysm that formed the original caldera happened in 1875, when debris ejected from the volcano made a mess as far away as mainland Europe. Activity continued over the next 30 years, culminating in another massive collapse of surface material. This new depression subsequently filled with water and, with a depth of 217m, is now the deepest lake in Iceland. Although the lake - a striking sapphire blue - remains frozen most of the year, a smaller and newer crater inside it is still hot and perfect for swimming. Askja is in central Iceland, and is best reached by 4WD vehicle or by organised tour.
Jökulsárgljúfur National Park
The Jökulsárgljúfur National Park (the name means `glacial river canyon') is Iceland's newest reserve. Sometimes referred to as `Iceland's Grand Canyon', the park possesses the country's largest gorge, luxuriant vegetation, bizarre rock formations and caves, the steep-walled valley of Ásbyrgi, and myriad waterfalls. Other highlights include the echoing rocks, Hljóðaklettar; the lush and lovely springs of Hólmatungur; and Dettifoss, Europe's most powerful waterfall. The park is east of Húsavík, in north-eastern Iceland.
There are unlimited trekking opportunities in Iceland, and walks can range from an afternoon hike to a two-week wilderness trek. Some of the country's best hiking can be found in the remote areas of Landmannalaugar, Látrabjarg and Hornstrandir, or in Reykjanesfólkvangur, right in Reykjavík's backyard. There are good skiing facilities at Reykjavík, Akureyri, Bláfjöll (just south-east of Reykjavík) and Hlíðarfjall (near Akureyri). You can also try sledding on the Langjökull Icecap, whitewater rafting on the Hvítá (White River), spelunking in the Hallmundarhraun Caves near Húsafell, horse-riding in the interior and swimming in geothermal pools. For something a little different, you can have a hit-out at the Arctic Open, held in Akureyri, which is an all-night `midnight sun' golf tournament attracting amateurs and professionals from around the world.
Icelandair, the national carrier, has regular and direct flights to Europe and the USA. Bear in mind that flying to Iceland is expensive: to keep transport costs down, plan as far in advance as possible, shop around for cheap fares, and purchase airline tickets at least 30 days prior to departure. A pleasant way to travel between Europe and Iceland is by ferry, although it takes a bit more time and the costs are still high. A ferry service operates from late May to early September out of Esberg in south-western Denmark (passengers are required to spend two nights in the Faroe Islands en route). There's also a coastal ferry between Greenland and Denmark, via Iceland, between mid-December and mid-January, and another, between Iceland and Norway, during the second week in September and returning the first week in October. Between June and August there's a ferry to Iceland from Lerwick in the Shetland Islands, off the north-east coast of Scotland.
Flugleiðir, the domestic airline, provides the only reliable transport in winter when snow and ice inhibits most overland travel. In summer, the airline has rather expensive daily flights between Reykjavík and most major destinations. Iceland has no railways and its highway system is the least developed in Europe. However, Bifreiðastöd Íslands, a collective organisation of long-distance bus lines, does a tidy job of covering the country with a feasible, though inconvenient, network. There are also a number of ferry services connecting ports. Car-rental agencies are found in most major towns, and rates are almost bearable until you add excess kms, compulsory insurance and some of the world's most expensive petrol to the price. With its unsurfaced roads, steep hills and inclement weather, Iceland is hardly a cyclist's dream. Nevertheless, an increasing number of visitors are trying it, and bikes can be rented in most urban centres, hotels, hostels and guesthouses. Local transport includes taxis, which can also be hired for sightseeing, and municipal buses.
Not a good place for hitching (13K)
- Some of the best reading available is to be found in the great sagas or historical novels of medieval Iceland, such as Hrafnkels Saga, Egils Saga, Grettis Saga. These are normally found in bookshops under the names of their translators, usually Magnús Magnússon (host of the British TV quiz Mastermind), Hermann Pálsson, or both.
- The works of Halldór Laxness, the country's Nobel Prize winning author, have also been translated into English, and include The Atom Station, The Fish Can Sing and Independent People.
- Another book which Iceland-bound travellers may enjoy is Jules Verne's Journey to the Centre of the Earth, which features descriptions of Reykjavík and Snæfellsjökull, the volcano which served as the gateway to the centre of the earth.
- Titles dealing with Iceland's history and society include: Northern Sphinx - Iceland & the Icelanders from the Settlement to the Present by Sigurour A Magnússon, an easily digestible account of the country's people, places and history; and Iceland Saga by Magnús Magnússon, a valuable introduction to the country's history and literature.
- Look out also for Letters from Iceland by W H Auden & Louis MacNiece, an irreverent and thoroughly facetious collections of poems, letters and narrative concerning the two poets' journey. Another travel classic, though in a more contemporary vein, is Last Places - A Journey to the North by Lawrence Millman. This collection of side-splittingly funny experiences tells of the author's four-month trip from Scotland to Newfoundland via the Faroes, Iceland and Greenland.
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