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 Facts at a Glance
Full name: The Faroe Islands
Area: 1399 sq km (545.6 sq mi)
Population: 43,400
Capital city: Tórshavn (pop 13,800)
People: Nordic and Danish
Language: Føroyskt (Faroese)
Religion: Protestant
Government: Self-governing overseas administrative division of Denmark (Constitutional monarchy)
Prime Minister: Anfinn Kallsberg
 Environment
Slightly smaller than greater London, the 18 islands of the Faroes lie in the north-eastern Atlantic about 400km (248mi) south-east of Iceland and 280km (174mi) north of Scotland. In the north are a group of rugged, rib-like islands that offer spectacular scenery, but most of the Faroes' population lives on Streymoy and Eysturoy in the heart of the island group.
The islands are the eroded remnants of a volcanic mid-Atlantic continent that rose after North America, Greenland and Europe went their separate ways. Other parts of this long-disappeared continent include the Westfyords of Iceland, County Antrim of Northern Ireland, parts of southern Greenland and bits of Scotland. During the Great Ice Age, all of the Faroes were blanketed with ice, and when the icecap finally melted its remnants gouged out the cirques, valleys, sounds and fjords so typical of the islands today.
The only place you'll see trees is in Tórshavn, and despite proud claims that the Viðarlund Park, with its stands of birch, beech and spruce, has the islands' only forest, the trees grow taller in town where the buildings shelter them. The main vegetation growing on the islands is grasses, sedges, mosses, fungi and lichens. More complex plants, such as wildflowers and ferns, tend to grow in people's gardens or in sheltered ravines where the ubiquitous sheep can't reach them.
Although the Faroes are home to several introduced pest species such as rats, mice and rabbits, the bird life is what leaves you gobsmacked. The bird population is probably the densest in the world, thanks to the profusion of plankton and fish. Forty-nine species of birds breed regularly on the islands, and another 30 do so from time to time. Among them are puffins, which are netted and eaten in large numbers, guillemots, fulmars, great skuas, razorbills, gannets, cormorants and kittiwakes. Inland, there are great colonies of eider ducks, golden plovers, rock doves and oystercatchers. Two hundred more species visit the islands occasionally. Other land dwellers include sheep (of which there are nearly twice as many as people) and cattle.
Large pods of pilot whales swim around Faroe waters, as do bottlenose whales, fin whales, killer whales, dolphins and porpoises. The pilot whales are subjected to the grindadráp, a traditional form of carnage the islanders wreak on them where they round up whole pods by motorboat, then beach and slaughter them. While many foreigners may consider the practice horrific, most islanders regard it as much a part of local culture as Christmas. Grey seals live in caves on the east coast and, possibly having seen the grindadráp once too often, are rarely seen.
Climate-wise, it's as cold and stormy as you'd expect any small islands in the middle of the North Atlantic to be. You can expect precipitation in the form of snow, hail, sleet, drizzle or just plain rain on about 280 days of the year. Thanks to the tropical current of the Gulf Stream, water at about 10°C (50°F) sweeps past the islands all year, which helps moderate the climate and provides ideal conditions for fish and plankton.
 History
St Brendan and his monks sailed past a couple of islands in the 6th century that they named the Island of Sheep and the Paradise of Birds, and modern day historians have speculated that both islands were in the Faroes. The Paradise of Birds may well have been Mykines, the Faroes' westernmost island with an unusually dense bird population. The first human settlers were Irish monks, who did not arrive till late in the 6th century. They were no doubt seeking pagans whose souls they could save, or places where they could leave peaceful lives of devotion. Little information remains about their stay, but it's likely that the herds of sheep that the Norse found there in the 9th century originated from hardy stock the Irish brought with them. Like those who settled Iceland, the first Norse to arrive in the Faroes were simple farmers and pastoralists looking for a peaceful place free of the ravages of pirates and tyrants on the mainland.
Little is known of their history before the 14th century, but according to the Færinga Saga written in Iceland during the 13th century, the Faroes converted to Christianity around 1000 and became a constitutional part of the Kingdom of Norway in 1035. Norway was formally joined to the Kingdom of Denmark in 1380, and the Faroes adopted a Danish system of law and justice. From very early on, the government of the Faroes lay in the Alting or `People's Assembly', but after 1380 parliament ceased and the Alting became little more than a royal court. In 1655, the Danish government presented the Faroes to Christoffer von Gabel as a personal feudal estate. The oppressive rule of both Gabel and his son, Frederick, brought exploitation and hardship to the islanders, and in 1709 the government relieved the von Gabels of the islands.
In 1849 the Danish legislature officially incorporated the Faroes into Denmark, giving the islands two seats in the House, but by the 1890s, many Faroese were clamouring for home rule. A clamour it was, but it came to nothing. The British occupied the islands during WWII in order to secure the crucial North Atlantic shipping lanes and to prevent the islands from following the rest of Denmark into German hands. Some Faroese wanted to take the opportunity to declare complete independence, but in 1948 Denmark passed the Act on Faroese Home Rule. The islands' official status changed from `County of Denmark' to `self-governing community within the Kingdom of Denmark'.
When Denmark joined the European Community, the Faroes refused to follow suit, mainly over the vexed issue of the 322km (200-mile) exclusion limit. The islands now have their own flag, Føroyskt has been declared the official language (although children must learn Danish at school) and the Løgtig, previously a county council, now operates as a legislative body. The Faroese oversee their own affairs inasmuch as their decisions do not affect Denmark. Denmark still retains control of and responsibility for insurance and banking, defence, foreign relations and justice, and provides an annual grant of about US$200 million for the privilege.
 Economic Profile
GDP: (Denmark) US$800 million
GDP per head: (Denmark) US$16,300
Annual growth: 6%
Inflation: 2.8%
Major industries: Construction, fishing, handicrafts, shipbuilding.
Major trading partners: Denmark, UK, Germany, France, Norway, USA.
 Culture
The Faroes do not have a huge cultural heritage. Faroese was long regarded as a peasant language and the written form was not standardised until the 1890s. Life was hard, and after the chores were done there was not a lot of time left to write novels or paint portraits. The earliest Faroese music would be considered bland by modern standards, and it was designed to accompany the Faroese chain dance and the kvæði, a body of late medieval ballads. There were no instruments on the islands, and simple and repetitive melodies were commonly sung in a minor key. Today, traditional dancing takes place mostly on special or festive occasions to help assert the islanders' unique identity. The chain dance was once popular all over Scandinavia, but has survived intact only in the Faroes.
During the long and cold winter nights, people occupied themselves by reciting stories and poetry that had been passed down orally for generations. They were finally collected and written down in the 19th century. The first modern Faroese poet, Nólsoyar-Poul Poulson, wrote politically inspired ballads dealing with corruption and the troubled economics of the early 1800s. The best known writer in the short history of Faroese literature is Heðin Brú, whose books are very popular in the islands and have gained acceptance abroad as well. Jørgen-Frantz Jacobsen and William Heinesen are other well known Faroese authors who wrote in Danish rather than their native language.
Faroese is is a Germanic language derived from Old Norse, significantly influenced by Gaelic, and related closely to Icelandic and some Norwegian dialects. Thor was traditionally the main god in the Faroes. He was rowdy and slow moving as gods go, a champ of the common people, and he held the controls for thunder, wind, storms and natural disasters. He could also fend off malevolent outsiders. Two other important gods were the twins Freyr and Freyja, who they served as god and goddess of fertility and sexuality. The islands today have officially shrugged off the Norse pantheon and belong to the Protestant Lutheran Church.
If you're interested in traditional Faroese food, you can probably forget about fresh green vegetables and start getting used to meat and potatoes. Meat is the basis of every meal, and one of the most popular treats is skerpikjøt, well aged, wind-dried mutton that requires a sharp knife and strong jaws to be appreciated. The drying shed, known as a hjallur, is a standard feature in many Faroese homes. Other favourites are rast kjót, or boiled mutton, and rastan fisk, boiled fish. After the bloody grindadráp, a favourite is grind og spik, whale and blubber, which you should probably avoid if the slaughter of pilot whales turns your stomach. Fresh fish also features strongly in the local diet, as do seabirds, such as puffins, and their eggs.
 Events
Counting Christmas, New Year and Easter, the Faroes have no fewer than 20 public holidays, ranging from the religious to Labour Day. The Faroese National Day is Ólavsøka, celebrated on 28 and 29 July, when the normally reserved Faroese really cut loose with drinking binges and rowdy behaviour. The festival is named in honour of St Olav, who pressed for acceptance of Christianity in Scandinavia, but it probably dates back to pagan times. Highlights include a rowing competition in which villages compete against each other, horse races, art exhibitions, chain dances and religious services. In mid-July, the western Faroes host the annual two-day Vestanstevna, which follow more or less the same agenda as the Ólavsøka.
 Facts for the Traveller
Visas: Citizens of Nordic countries need only a valid identification card to enter, and citizens of countries not requiring visas, including Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Japan, the USA and EU countries require only a valid passport for stays of up to three months.
Health risks:: Hypothermia.
Time: GMT/UTC
Electricity: 220V, 50 Hz.
Weights & measures: Metric (see conversion table)
 Money & Costs
Currency: Faroese króna (kr)
Relative costs:
- Budget room: US$6.50-10
- Moderate hotel: US$55-70
- Top-end hotel: US$90 and upwards
- Budget meal: US$6-10
- Moderate restaurant meal: US$15-30
- Top-end restaurant meal: US$30 and upwards
Because so much is imported, you'll have to dig deep into your pocket for food, accommodation and transport in the Faroes, and you will have to put in some effort to have a real budget trip. If you are prepared for at least some exposure to the elements, for sleeping in youth hostels or a tent, travelling on bus passes or hitch hiking, and cooking for yourself or eating at snack bars, you could probably scrape by on US$30 a day. If you live close enough to the islands to bring your own caravan or camper van, you can enjoy a little more comfort and still keep within a reasonable limit, although don't forget that petrol costs about US$1.20 a litre (about $4.80 a gallon). Expense account travellers, or those who won't quibble about parting with US$500 a day, will have all their prayers answered in the Faroes.
You can change money at Faroese banks during normal business hours, and the exchange counter at Vágar Airport is open from 10 am to 2 pm and for all incoming international flights. Normally banks charge a small commission for exchange services. Major credit cards are widely accepted, tipping is not required and bargaining is unacceptable.
Travellers can get a partial refund of the 25% VAT you've paid on goods as they leave the country. If you spend more than US$48 in any one shop that displays the `Tax-free for Tourists' sign, you'll be given a refund cheque for about 15% of the value of the goods. You'll have to show what you've bought to Customs, and can receive your refund at the airport.
 When to Go
Most tourism takes place in the summer months between 1 June and 1 September, and you'll rarely need to book ahead as the Faroes are still a long way from the well trodden tourist haunts in the rest of Europe. The end of July is probably the best time as you'll catch the Ólavsøka festivities.
 Attractions
Tórshavn
Tórshavn is high on picturesque charm but low on much action of any kind at all, so if you're looking to party you'll be disappointed. But a stroll around Tinganes, the small peninsula where the town began a thousand years ago, is enough to endear it to just about anyone. It has narrow streets and is very busy, conjuring up the heyday of `wonderful Copenhagen' at the height of its maritime trade. The modern town centre is focused on the area between Tinganes and Wintersgøta, just up the hill from the harbours on either side of the peninsula. On the far end of Tinganes stands Skansapakkúsið, an impressive building that once served as an artillery depot. During the war with Britain in 1808, the British emptied it and threatened to destroy Tórshavn if the town did not surrender.
Munkastovan is a heavy stone-walled former monastery, built in the 15th century and one of the few buildings to escape a devastating fire in 1673. The other building to escape the flames was Leigubúðin, the king's storehouse, where agricultural goods paid as taxes were stored before shipping to the mainland. Reynagarður is a typical example of Faroese architectural design of the early 1600s, with four wings arranged around a central courtyard.
The most impressive museum in town is probably the Historical Museum. It displays religious and maritime artefacts, boats, and household, fishing, navigation and farming implements from the Viking age to the present. Nordic House is an architecturally interesting building with a turf roof, and its interior is used as a theatre and a conference, concert and exhibition hall. It houses visiting exhibitions from around Scandinavia, and has a library, halls and cafeteria. On Tuesday nights in summer, it hosts `Faroese evenings' for tourists. On the northern edge of Viðarlin Park is Listaskálin, the Faroese Museum of Art, with a fine collection of works by Faroese painters and sculptors. The museum also hosts theatrical and musical performances and special exhibitions.
Many people looking for budget accommodation in Tórshavn go to the camping ground, only 1.5km north (about 1mi) north of the centre along the coast. The youth hostel is near Viðarlund Park in Gundadalur, and there are a few cheap dormitories, B&Bs and guest houses around town, as well as two upmarket hotels. Several well stocked supermarkets and bakeries sell fresh bread, and a few cafes sell snacks and light meals. Many more cafes and cafeterias sell everything from hot dogs and pizzas to baked potatoes and draught beer.
Kirkjubøur
Kirkjubøur is on the south coast of the island of Streymoy, which encompasses 25% of the land area of the Faroes and has over 40% of the islands' population. Kirkjubøur is not a town as much as a collection of impressive ruins. It was the episcopal centre of the island in medieval times, and the largest and most striking of the ruins is the Magnus Cathedral, begun in the 13th century but never finished owing to the ruthless methods employed by Bishop Erlendur and an avalanche in 1772 that destroyed its western wall.
Nearby is St Olav's Church, built in 1111, and dedicated to the king who had formulated Norway's Christian code during the previous century. It served as the Faroes' religious centre until the Reformation, but several renovations in the 19th and 20th centuries have robbed it of some of its original character. All that remains of St Brendan's Church is a small mound of stones and a crumbled wall in a horse paddock, about 100m (330ft) south of the Magnus Cathedral. The original church was built in the 11th century, but it was seized by the Catholic church around 1100. In about 1420 another church was built on the site and dedicated to St Brendan and Bishop Erlendur, but the building has since collapsed under assault from the sea.
Roykstovan is a 900-year-old farmhouse with a turf roof, the timber for which came unintentionally from Norway. The ship that was carrying it to another destination sank, and its cargo was washed up at this natural collection point by the Gulf Stream. The building has been occupied by 18 generations of the same Faroese family, and the farmhouse museum is open daily in the summer. The tiny seaside village of Syðradalur lies 12km (7.4mi) north of Kirkjubøur, and it gives you the best view of nearby Koltur Island.
There are numerous buses between Tórshavn and Kirkjubøur. Unless the day is fine and you want to hike around the surrounding country, two hours is probably enough for a visit.
Saksun
In the north of Streymoy island, Saksun's unusual setting makes it something of a tourist destination. It is a hillside village of typical farmhouses, and is divided in two by the River Dalsá. Downstream from the village is the beautiful and almost perfectly round tidal lake Pollur (`Pond'), which has excellent fishing. There's a great walk above its southern bank to Ósin, the outlet to the sea. The Saskun Church, which overlooks Pollur, was moved from Tjørnuvík in 1858.
At the end of the northern road is the 19th century turf farmhouse Dúvuvarður, with a folk museum displaying the harshness of Faroese life from the medieval era to the 1800s. About 1km (0.6mi) along the Dalsá above the village is Lake Saksunarvatn, which is also good for trout and salmon fishing.
Saksun is easily accessible by bus from Tórshavn, and the journey takes about one and a quarter hours.
Skálafjørður
Skálafjørður is the name given to both the long, sheltered fjord enclosed by the southernmost peninsulas of Eysturoy, and to the village at its head, which has the Faroes' best harbour. The towns on the western shore are becoming a kind of Faroese megalopolis as they keep growing, but there is plenty to see in the area. The Folk Museum in Glyvrar is furnished as a 19th century Faroese home. From the nearby hamlet of Runavik, it's a pleasant half hour walk up to the mountain lake Toftavatn, a popular place to try your luck with rod and reel.
Just a short way south of Runavik is the tiny community of Nes, with an old church with a slate roof and natural wood inside. Strendur, on the southern tip of the western peninsula, has a wool spinning factory called Snældan, with an outlet for reasonably priced woollen goods.
There are up to eight bus connections daily between Tórshavn and Skálafjørður via the Sundini Bridge between Streymoy and Eysturoy. Ferries are irregular, but you can catch them between Tórshavn and one or two towns on the peninsulas. There are also buses up and down both sides of the fjord.
Mykines
Mykines Village is Mykines Island's single village, and it is a beautiful little place with bright houses with turf roofs. With only 18 inhabitants there's not a great deal to see, but the countryside around is ideal for walking. Lundaland (`the land of puffins') is on Mykineshólmur, an islet connected to the main island by a footbridge over a 24m (115ft) deep gorge called Hólmgjógv. The walk is one of the best in the Faroes, with magnificent scenery and some of the world's densest bird colonies. If you have more than a few hours, it's worthwhile climbing to the island's summit, the 560m (1837ft) Knúkur, for the fantastic views, or visiting Steinskógurin (`the stone forest') near the northern coast at Korkadalur. East of Knúkur, the terrain becomes precipitous and the walk to the eastern end of the island is treacherous.
There are ferry and helicopter services from the nearby island of Vágar in summer.
Off the Beaten Track
Sandoy
Sandoy is the least rugged of the Faroes, but it boasts the country's only sand dunes and they make great hiking, especially around the west coast and in the roadless north-east. On the pass above the town of Skopun are two beautiful lakes, Norðara Hálsavatn and Heimara Hálsavatn, both popular with trout anglers. You can do a wonderful trek west from Skopun to the Cliffs of Djúpaberg. A longer and rougher walk takes you along the cliffs of the south coast to Søltuvik and on to Sandur, a village sitting on a small peninsula between two lakes, Sandsvatn and Gróthúsvatn, and two bays, Sandsvágur and Grótvik. At the head of Sandsvágur, between the village and the mountain, is an area of sand dunes and a beach of black basalt sands. The Sandur Church has a fascinating history, and the site has been used as a parish centre since the 11th century. Archaeological remains show that at least six consecutive churches have existed on the site since.
The `troll woman's finger', or Trøllkonufingur, is a much photographed sea stack north of the tiny settlement of Skarvanes. There's no public transport to the rock, but it's an easy 4km (2.5mi) hike north of the tiny settlement of Skarvanes. Skálavík is known as the home town of the Faroes' most renowned writer, Heðin Brú. It's also the start of a scenic walk over the mountain Heiðafjall to Húsavík, one of the Faroes' most charming villages. It was settled very early in Faroese history, but never really gained importance after the Plague decimated its population in the 14th century. It has a lovely, dark sandy beach, and just north of town are the ruins of a 14th century longhouse.
Ferries sail six or seven times weekly between Gamlarætt, in the south of Streymoy, and Skópun, in the north of Sandoy. From there numerous buses leave for various destinations in Sandoy.
Klasvík
Klasvík is the largest town on Borðoy, the biggest of the sparsely populated and beautiful north-eastern islands. The town has 4500 inhabitants, and its harbour is full of the most high tech fishing vessels you'll see anywhere - around 13% of the Faroes' fishing exports come from Klasvík. The Christianskirkja is worth a visit. It was designed with various elements of Faroese life in mind, and roof gables are reminiscent of early Viking halls. The stone walls are intended to call to mind those of the Magnus Cathedral in Kirkjubøur, and the design of the gable windows was inspired by those of Faroese boathouses. It was built around the altarpiece, entitled The Great Supper, an impressive work originally painted as a fresco for a church in Denmark by Danish artist Joakim Skovgård.
The Norðoya Fornminnasavn (North Islands Museum) on the western shore of Klasvík's harbour is worth seeing. Housed in the old Danish Trade Monopoly building, it was built in 1838, and it displays historical photographs, tools and household relics.
There are numerous daily ferry crossings between Leirvík on Eysturoy Island and Klasvík.
Kalsoy
Kalsoy is possibly the most rugged of any of the Faroes, and the hiking is excellent. The western coast consists only of steep cliffs, and there are four small settlements on the eastern slopes: Syðradalur, Húsar, Mikladalur and Trøllanes, with a combined population of around 130. The villages are connected by a series of tunnels, and because so many holes have been carved through it the island is whimsically known as `the flute'.
You can climb up the 740m (2440ft) Botnstindur from Syðradalur, and you can also walk from the ferry landings at Syðradalur or Húsar to Trøllanes, admittedly through unlit tunnels. Walking through the cold, damp darkness in the heart of a mountain is an eerie experience - bring a flashlight. Another excellent walk from Trøllanes goes to the Kallur Lighthouse on the northern tip of the island. On the cape you have a good chance of seeing puffins, and a natural sea arch under the northern tip of the island gives great views of cliffs and a deep blue cove sheltering in the rocks below. On a clear day you can see all the way to the Risin og Kellingin sea stacks at the northern end of Eysturoy.
There are daily ferries between Klasvík on Borðoy, and Syðradalur and Húsar on Kalsoy.
Fugloy
You can explore most of Fugloy (`Bird Island') in a day trip. This will include walks up to the 450m (1470ft) cliffs at Eystfelli and the 620m (2030ft) cliffs at Klubbin. Both sets of cliffs are breathtaking, and swarming with nesting birds. The cliffs at Klubbin descend from a plateau-like ridge, which is high enough to be covered with tundra tussocks and boreal vegetation rather than just grass. On the north-eastern tip of the island at Eystfelli, a broad, natural amphitheatre sweeps upward seemingly toward oblivion. Near the lighthouse there's a natural stone arch in the rock, and not far from that, (with a little imagination) the profile of an Egyptian Pharoah, apparently the only one to have made it to the Faroes.
Fugloy has no harbour, so landing by ferry can be hit and miss, depending on the vagaries of the weather. If it's too treacherous, the boats won't land, either denying you access to the island or leaving you stranded for longer than you'd anticipated. You could consider taking the weekly helicopter from Klasvík, which flies via Svínoy, if you don't want to get jammed up.
 Activities
There are great places for hiking and trekking in the Faroes. Before the road system existed, a series of cairns marked the way across country for walkers, and many of the cairns survive throughout the islands today. As well as taking warm and waterproof clothing, trekkers should carry a compass and, if possible, topographic maps of the area. Fishing is less restricted than in Iceland, and if you're trekking and camping in the highlands it may be a good idea to bring fishing tackle to help supplement your diet. Although it's not a diver's mecca, you can go diving, and shipwreck exploration and spearfishing are possible with a qualified instructor.
 Getting There & Away
Icelandair flies from Glasgow to the Faroes from May to September, and you can also fly with Maersk or Atlantic Airways from Copenhagen to Vágar. From North America you will have to fly to Scotland, Iceland or Denmark and change for the Faroes there. There are currently no round the world fares from Australia or New Zealand that include the Faroe Islands, so if you're coming from the Antipodes you'll similarly have to fly to Europe first.
You can take ferries between May and early September from Norway, Iceland and Denmark, and although it takes more time than flying and isn't particularly economical, it is still a pleasant way to get there.
 Getting Around
The Faroese transport system is the equal of any other northern European country. Roads are surfaced and the difficult parts have been bypassed by tunnelling through mountains. The only inter-island travel by air in the Faroes is by helicopter, and it's a surprisingly cheap way to island hop. As flights are normally booked out, it's wise to reserve seats weeks in advance.
The Bygdaleiðir long-distance bus service is excellent. When combined with the ferry services, it links virtually every corner of the islands. The fares are steep and add up quickly if you're doing a lot of travel, but you can get a transport pass that gives reasonable discounts. Driving yourself around the islands is easy, but unless you're bringing your own car, hiring a vehicle is expensive. The highways are generally wide and well surfaced, making cycling a valid proposition if you're dressed to handle the elements.
 Recommended Reading
- A brief but excellent account of travelling in the Faroes is included in Lawrence Millman's North Atlantic Travelogue Last Places - A Journey in the North. Another light and positive account of life in the Faroes is The Atlantic Islands, by Kenneth Williamson, who was stationed there during WWII.
- Faroe - the Emergence of a Nation, is the best and most thorough historical work on the islands.
- Although it was written in Iceland, you may want to read the Faroese Saga, which outlines the settlement of the Faroes and the brave and otherwise deeds of the settlers.
- The Faroes Venture, by Jeremy Lucas, is an anti-grindadráp novel, if you're interested in the Faroese pilot whale issue.
- A few works of modern Faroese literature have been translated into English, and you can pick them up in bookshops in Tórshavn if you can't get them elsewhere. Most notable are the works of William Heinesen, with Neils Peter, Tower at the Edge of the World and The Black Cauldron, and Heðin Brú's The Old Man and His Sons.
 Lonely Planet Guides
 Travellers' Reports
 On-line Info
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