 Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Republic of Cyprus/Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus
Area: 9251 sq km (3608 sq mi)
Population: 911,000
Capital city: Lefkosia (Nicosia) (pop 48,220)
People: Greek 78%, Turkish 18%
Language: Greek, Turkish
Religion: Greek Orthodox, Muslim
Government: Democracy
President: Glafkos Clerides
Cyprus is an island in the far eastern Mediterranean Sea, below Turkey and to the west of Syria. The country is actually two countries - the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (recognised only by Turkey) and the southern Republic of Cyprus. There are two large mountain ranges on the island: the Kyrenian Mountains in North Cyprus and the Troodos Massif in the centre of the Republic. The northern mountains are mainly limestone, the southern are volcanic rock. These ranges are separated by the Mesaoria Plain.
Cyprus has always been an island, and many Cypriot species, particularly plants, are found nowhere else in the world. There are three main habitat types in Cyprus: the mountain ranges, the coastal plains and the cultivated lands. The coastal plains are irrigated by seasonal streams, and some support citrus orchards, but native flora and fauna has been largely displaced by tourism. The best areas to see wildlife are the mountainous areas of the island and the Akamas Peninsula (which, although not a national park, has been managed for conservation). The north, being less touristed, also has a larger population of native flora and fauna. Keep an eye out for griffon vultures, foxes, fruit-eating bats, sea turtles and moufflon, a wild sheep endemic to Cyprus.
The Cypriot climate is typically Mediterranean, with very hot summers in July and August. Most of the year is dry, with unpredictable rains falling in December, January and February. Cyprus often suffers drought years.
Cyprus has always been an important trading post between the empires of Europe, Africa and the Middle East, and throughout history someone has always wanted to take it off someone else. First the Mycenaeans grabbed it, then the Phoenicians, Egyptians, Assyrians and Persians. Alexander the Great took it off them, then Ptolemy snatched it from him. Rome took over in 58 BC and kept the place in relative peace and security until the 7th century, when the Byzantine and Islamic empires started three centuries of bickering over it. In 1191, Richard the Lionheart, on his way to the Crusades, dropped into Cyprus for a spot of conquering, but the Cypriots caused him too much trouble (one of them killed his hawk and he was forced to massacre a few villages in retaliation), so he sold them to the Knights Templar. The Templars sold the island to Guy de Lusignan, whose heirs hung in for three centuries, repressing the culture but doing wonders for the economy.
 Pillar talk in Kourion (19K)
The Venetians took over in 1489, but were quickly booted out by the expanding Ottoman Empire, which kept Cyprus for 300 years before handing over to Britain. In 1925 Cyprus became a Crown colony of the UK, but by then the Cypriots had had just about enough of being a pawn for empire-builders, and agitation for self-determination began. This agitation laid the foundations for today's Greek/Turkish conflicts: while many Greek Cypriots wanted to form a union with Greece (a movement known as enosis), the 18% Turkish population were not so keen. By 1950, the Cypriot Orthodox Church and 96% of Greek Cypriots wanted enosis. In response, the British drafted a new constitution, which was accepted by the Turkish population but opposed by the National Organisation of Cypriot Freedom Fighters, who wanted enosis or nothing. They began a guerilla war against the British.
In August 1960 Britain granted Cyprus its independence. A Greek, Makarios, became president, while a Turk, Kⁿkⁿk, was made vice-president. By 1964 Makarios was moving towards stronger links with Greece, and intercommunal violence was on the rise. The United Nations sent in a peace-keeping force. In 1967 a military junta took over the Greek government and enosis was out the window - even the most fervent Greece-lovers didn't want union with such a repressive regime. Greece wasn't giving up, though: on 15 July 1974 they overthrew Makarios and replaced him with a puppet leader. Turkey responded by invading and Greece quickly pulled out, but the Turks weren't placated and took the northern third of the island, forcing 180,000 Greek Cypriots to flee their homes.
Peace talks have been held sporadically, but Cyprus remains divided. The Republic is now making moves towards full membership of the European Union (which would put Turkey in an awkward position as the occupiers of an EU member state), while Turkey has responded by threatening to annexe the north. The United Nations has been scaling down its presence in Cyprus, and small-scale border scuffles are on the increase. In August 1996, Greek Cypriots and Turks clashed during the worst violence since 1974. The south is being armed by France, Russia and the Czech Republic, while the north is building up arms from Turkish supplies. The south intends to install Russian missiles some time in 1998 and this, along with a newly-opened air base in Paphos, has further soured relations between the two sides.
(numbers given are for south/north)
GDP: US$6.3 billion/US$600 million
GDP per head: US$9078/US$3405
Annual growth: 6.5%/5.9%
Inflation: 5.1%/69.4%
Major industries: Agriculture, cement, clothing, shoes
Major trading partners: UK, Greece, Japan, Turkey
Cypriots are very proud of their cultural heritage, which stretches back more than 9000 years. However, you'll probably find that Cyprus today is more concerned with the events of the last 20 years than those of a millennium ago. The north of the island is busy recreating itself in the image of Turkey, changing English names to Turkish and embracing the life and culture of its northern neighbour. The Republic is also trying to create an independent identity, and many places in the south have recently been renamed as well.
Whatever the present-day situation may be, Cyprus is littered with reminders of the island's cultural history. Relics from every era - Greek temples, Roman mosaics and 15th century religious frescoes - influence the artists of today. Many villages specialise in a particular artform, and as you travel around Cyprus you'll see pottery, silver and copperware, basket weaving, tapestry and Lefkara's famous lacework.
Like everything else in Cyprus, religion is split along the green line. The northerners are mostly Sunni Muslim, the southerners Greek Orthodox. Food, too, reflects the divide: in the north you'll find mostly Turkish cuisine, in the south Greek. But wherever you are in Cyprus you'll come across kleftikó or kⁿp kebab - lamb or goat barbecued with vegetables in an outdoor oven. Cyprus is also famous for its fruit, which the government protects with a ban on imported products. You'll find strawberries, stone fruit, melons, prickly pear, citrus and grapes.
The Republic celebrates basically the same festivals as Greece. Easter, more important in the Greek Orthodox church than Christmas, is the biggest celebration of the year - expect candle-lit processions, fireworks and feasting. The date changes every year, but it's 50 days after the first Sunday in Lent, which is occasion for a carnival of its own. Cyprus Independence Day is celebrated on 1 October.
The North observes Muslim holidays. Foremost among these is Ramadan, a month where everyone fasts between sunup and sunset to conform to the fourth pillar of Islam. Ramadan ends with a huge feast, Eid al-Fitr, where everyone prays together, visits friends, gives presents and stuffs themselves. The Proclamation of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus is celebrated on 15 November.
Visas: Nationals of the USA, Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand, Singapore and the EU can stay in Cyprus for up to three months without a visa. You can travel from North Cyprus to the Republic but not back, and you can day-trip from the Republic to the North.
Health risks: No particular risks, but you should consider vaccinations for hepatitis.
Time: GMT/UTC plus two hours
Electricity: 240V, 50 Hz
Weights & measures: Metric (see the conversion table.)
 Money & Costs
Currency: Cyprus pound/Turkish lira
Relative costs:
- Budget meal: US$5-7
- Moderate restaurant: US$12-16
- Top-end restaurant: US$20 and up
- Budget lodging: US$8-15
- Moderate lodging: US$15-30
- Top-end lodging: US$50 and up
Compared to Europe, southern Cyprus is moderately cheap; compared to the Middle East, you'll find it expensive. You'll probably need to budget around $35 a day if you're going to stick to public transport, stay in very cheap rooms and live mostly on food from shops rather than eating out. Around $70 a day will let you stay in a mid-range place, eat out twice a day, and get about in a hire car. In the north it's a different story. It's harder to travel on a budget here because there really aren't many budget-travel facilities. If you can find them, though, rooms are cheaper (good places will cost you around $15 a night), you can get a decent feed for $12 and car rental is cheap. For $50 a day you should be able to live in relative luxury. All over the country, things are cheaper in winter.
Banks throughout Cyprus will exchange all major currencies in either cash or travellers' cheques. Most places in the north will accept Cyprus pounds and other hard currencies as well as Turkish lira. In the Republic you can get a cash advance on Visa at most banks, and in the north a couple of banks will do one for you. You cannot get cash on Amex anywhere on the island.
A 10% charge is tacked on to most restaurant bills in the south, so you needn't bother tipping unless the service is something special. In the north service is only added in flasher places, so think more seriously about leaving a tip. Taxi drivers also expect a tip.
The shoulder seasons - April/May and September/October - are the most pleasant times, climatically, to visit Cyprus. Summer - June to August - can be very hot, and winter is sometimes wet, but still pleasant.
The capital of Cyprus, in the middle of the island, is cut in two by the Green Line which divides the country. Since the wall came down in Berlin, it's the only divided capital in the world. A visit here might help you understand the problems Cyprus is facing, and should also give you a less touristy view of the country than you'll get if you stick to the coastal towns. The old town, inside the 16th century Venetian walls, is the most interesting part of Lefkosia, with the city centre and municipal gardens just outside the wall on the south-west side.
South Lefkosia: The Leventis Municipal Museum traces the development of the city from prehistoric times and gives a pretty good overview - it's not a bad place to start your Lefkosian experience. Just east of the Leventis you'll find a museum of culture, Dragoman Hadjigeorgakis. The exhibits are nothing special, but the building - a 15th to 18th century mansion - is gorgeous. For some really spectacular museum pieces try the Byzantine Museum in the downright ugly Archbishop's Palace, which has a superb collection of religious icons and mosaics. In the grounds of the museum, St John's Cathedral has some recently restored 18th century frescoes. Once the main entrance to the city, the Famagusta Gate, on the eastern wall, is beautifully preserved and is now used as a cultural centre.
Famagusta - gateway to Lefkosia (24K)
North Lefkosia: The centre of the northern city is Atatⁿrk Square, in the north-west. From the square, the main street runs north to the well-preserved Girne Gate. Near the gate you'll find the Turkish Museum, which lives in a 17th century monastery and features a display of whirling dervish memorabilia. The Selimiye Mosque, built in the 13th century, is one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in the country. Famous around the world, the Bⁿyⁿk Hamam, in the south of town, is the city's largest Turkish bath.
In the southern part of the city most of the places to stay, cheap or otherwise, are clustered around the southern wall, with a youth hostel a bit further south. Places to eat are in the same sort of area, with a health food shop near the hostel. In the north you'll find most accommodation around Selimiye Mosque, which is also the best area to get a bite to eat. If you're staying in the south and want to visit the north, you can usually get an entry permit which will let you stay the day. It isn't possible to day-trip in the other direction.
In a country of crassly commercial, poorly-planned resort monstrosities, Paphos (on the western coast) seems to be hanging on to its identity while still pulling the tourist dollar. Kato Paphos, the lower town, has committed some nasty developmental sins, but Paphos itself, slightly inland, is much more pleasant. Among the souvenir shops you'll find Saránda Colónes, a Lusignian building destroyed by an earthquake in the 13th century. It's a very ruined ruin, mostly fallen columns and sewer tunnels. The Tombs of the Kings, 2km (1.2mi) north of Kato Paphos, are a warren of fascinating tombs carved into the soft rock of the sea-cliff.
Paphos' most famous sight is its mosaics, originally laid down in the 3rd century as floors for Roman nobles. The first of these was uncovered in 1962, and continuing excavations have revealed a complex of buildings covering about 300sq m (about 980sq ft). Most of the mosaics, considered the best in this part of the world, are dedicated to Dionysus. Most people who come to Paphos come on a package, and the town isn't really set up for the casual visitor, with very few decent places to stay. Have a look in the northern part of town and you might be able to dig something up.
The mountains of the Troodos region, in the country's south, are unforgettable. And unlike the rest of the Republic, this is one place where you might not be outnumbered by package tourists. Popular with skiers, hikers and the heat-intolerant, Troodos is littered with 15th century frescoed monasteries, wine-making villages and pleasant walking trails. Kykkos Monastery, in the western Troodos, is the best known but most touristy monastery. Built in the 12th century, it's been completely renovated and contains a museum of religious icons. Asinou is probably the most beautiful of the area's monasteries, but it's a bit of a trek to get to it - head south from Nikitári.
Take time out in the Troodos (19K)
Pláres is the main resort in the Troodos. In the south of the region, it was a colonial hill station and is still very popular with expats. It's nothing special, but there's lots of places to stay. Pedhoulas, in the western Troodos, is another regional centre and home to the Church of Archangelos. It's also one of the most convenient bases for visiting Kykkos. The Soléa district, in the north, is scattered with picturesque small villages and monasteries, and is ideal if you're keen for a bit of cycling.
Once the richest city in the world, and the setting for Shakespeare's Othello, Famagusta has now gone romantically to seed. The decaying old town is surrounded by a Venetian city wall, while the new town sprawls outside its boundaries. Just north of the green line in the country's east, Famagusta sits at the base of the eerie, desolate Kárpas Peninsula. Wealthy to the point of vulgarity in the 13th century, levelled by the Ottoman Empire in the 16th, the old city is now mostly notable for its few remaining churches. St Nicholas Cathedral, now the Mustafa Pasha Mosque, is a magnificent reminder of the city's Lusignan heyday. Although succesive regimes have either altered or damaged it, it is still an elegant building. Note the minaret perched incongruously on one of its ruined towers.
Maybe it is, maybe it isn't: Othello's Castle (26K)
Famagusta's other drawcard is Othello's Castle. According to legend, this is where Christophore Moro (governor of Cyprus from 1506-8) killed his wife Desdemona. Alternatively, this is where Francesco de Sessa, a dark-skinned soldier, committed some unnamed offence which resulted in his banishment. Another legend holds that all the wealth of Famagusta's Venetian merchants, abandoned during the Ottoman bombardment, is buried in the tower's basement. Even if none of these stories are true, the castle is worth a look just for its great views of the harbour. Famagusta isn't exactly crawling with eating and accommodation possibilities (most tourist digs were in the now deserted and off-limits Greek part of town), so most travellers day-trip here from the north's beach towns.
Kyrenia, in the middle of the north coast, is, despite some nasty developments, the most pleasant coastal resort on the island. As is the norm in Cyprus, the old quarter is the most atmospheric place to be, but most of the hotels are in the newer resort strip. If Mediterranean atmosphere and outdoor cafes aren't enough to keep you entertained, have a look at the Kyrenia Castle. Originally built in Roman times, the building you see today is mostly Venetian. The castle includes a Byzantine chapel and a museum of shipwrecks, featuring the world's oldest shipwreck and its cargo.
Harbouring dreams of Kyrenia (18K)
The Akamas Peninsula, on the west coast, is one of the last wild and unspoilt places on the Cypriot coast. The landscape is a patchwork of barren rock and lush vegetation, with a wide variety of flora and fauna, including some rare species. It's a great destination for walkers, with a network of paths criss-crossing the peninsula. The Baths of Aphrodite are at the start of these trails. According to legend, this is where Aphrodite regularly did a Madonna, making herself like a virgin after a night on the town.
Bus-tling metro, Polis (21K)
Polis itself is about the only southern beach resort which caters for independent travellers. Set among citrus orchards and surrounded by spectacular scenery, Polis is a charming and serene base for exploring the surrounding area. It's also a great place to hire a mountain bike, motorbike or car. There's nothing much to see here, but it's a great place to stare out to sea and knock back a brandy sour or six.
Outside the city of Limassol, in the island's far south, the Crusader castle of Kolossi towers over a landscape of vineyards. The castle was built by the Hospitallers, who were granted land here in 1210, and for a while this was their headquarters. The castle was restored in 1933 by the British. Close by is a sugar factory, also built by the Hospitallers - until the British started shipping slaves to the Carribean, Cyprus was one of the world's largest producers of sugar. There are also plenty of citrus orchards in the area, and you can pick up some of country's cheapest and juiciest oranges in the markets here. The best way to get to Kolossi is by bus from Limassol.
Salamis
Nine km (5.6mi) north of Famagusta, this was Cyprus' most important pre-Christian city, and it's still the country's best archaeological site. You could easily spend a day here, checking out the fully-restored Roman amphitheatre, the gymnasium with marble baths, and the mosaics. Most of the ruins are Byzantine or Roman, and they're scattered over 8kms (5mi). A very pleasant beach fringes the site, so bring your swimmers. There are camping sites south of the ruins, plus a few slightly luxurious hotels to the north.
Roman gym culture, Salamis (21K)
Unsurprisingly in a country of resorts, Cyprus has plenty of places where you can indulge in watersports. If it's windsurfing or sailing you want, head to the peninsulas and capes, where the wind is strongest. There's also at least one diving site in each of the big resorts. Mountain biking and hiking are possible all over the island, with specially marked trails in the southern hills, on the Akamas Peninsula and in the Troodos. Although hardly renowned for its skiing, Cyprus does have a resort on the northeast face of Mount Olympus, but it's not exactly world standard. And what would a package tourist destination be without golf - several courses are under construction, with one of the most popular in the Paphos district.
 Getting There & Away
The Republic has airports at Larnaca and Paphos, with flights from most of Europe and the Middle East. North Cyprus has an international airport at Ercan, but only Turkish airlines fly there. By sea, you can get to Greece, Rhodes and Israel from the Republic's port in Lemessos. If you want to go to the Greek islands, you'll have to change at Athens. To get to Turkey you'll have to leave from North Cyprus. There are ferries from Famagusta to Mersin, Kyrenia to Tasucu and (during peak season) Kyrenia to Alanya. Departure tax from the Republic is 11 Cyprus pounds by sea, 7 Cyprus pounds by air.
Bus services run within and between towns every day except Sunday. Those between major cities are cheap, frequent and efficient. If you want to travel on a Sunday, you'll need to get a service taxi. They're good for most places in the Republic, but they tend to take roundabout routes. North Cyprus has service taxis between Kyrenia and North Lefkosia. It's easy to hire cars and bikes all over the country.
- Journey Into Cyprus, written in 1972 by Colin Thubron, is the classic Cyprus travelogue.
- The Cyprus Revolt, by Nancy Cranshaw, is one of the most up-to-date guides to the political situation in Cyprus, while 30 Hot Days by Mehmet Ali Birand tells it from the Turkish perspective.
- Cyprus, from the Stone Age to the Romans, by Vassos Karageorghis, is a good introduction to the island's history and archaeology.
- Cyprus: Images of a Lifetime is a stunning coffee-table book by the Cypriot photographer Reno Wideson.
- Nature of Cyprus, by Christos Georgiades, is the most useful all-round guide to the island's wildlife, and includes checklists of most species.
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