 Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Republic of Honduras
Area: 112,492 sq km (43,870 sq mi)
Population: 5.8 million (growth rate 3%)
Capital city: Tegucigalpa (pop 785,000)
People: 90% mestizo, 7% Indian
Language: Spanish, Creole English and Indian dialects
Religion: Predominantly Roman Catholic, plus other Christian sects and indigenous forms of worship
Government: Constitutional democracy
President: Carlos Flores Facussé
Honduras is the knee of Central America, bordered to the south by Nicaragua and El Salvador and to the west by Guatemala. It has a 644km (399mi) long Caribbean coast and a 124km (77mi) pipsqueak of a Pacific coast. The Caribbean Bay Islands and, further northeast, the distant Swan islands are both part of Honduran territory.
Three-quarters of the country is composed of rugged hills and mountains, ranging from 300 to nearly 2850m (984 to 9348ft) in height. Lowlands are found only along the coasts and in major river valleys. Deforestation is occurring at a rate of 3000 sq km (1170 sq mi) a year, which, if continued, will turn the country into a treeless desert within the next 20 years. However, there are still largely untouched areas, especially in the Mosquitia region. Fauna includes jaguars, armadillos, wild pigs, monkeys and alligators, and abundant bird life such as toucans, herons and kingfishers.
The climate in Honduras varies between the mountainous interior and the coastal lowlands and between the Pacific and Caribbean coasts. The interior is much cooler than the humid coast, and temperate Tegucigalpa has maximum temperatures varying between 25 and 30°C (77 and 86°F). The rainy season technically begins in May and lasts until October. This means that the interior and Pacific coast are relatively dry between November and April, but on the Caribbean coast it rains all year. The wettest months on the Caribbean coast are from September/October to January/February. The tourist season on the Caribbean coast is between February and April, during the US winter. This is a good time to visit, but prices will be lower and there will be fewer tourists if you avoid this season.
Honduras was extremely hard hit by Hurricane Mitch in November 1998.
There is evidence of Maya settlement since at least 1000 BC at Copán in western Honduras, but like other Maya city-states this was abandoned mysteriously around 900 AD. Columbus set foot on the American mainland for the first time at Trujillo in northern Honduras in 1502 and named the country after the deep water off the Caribbean coast (`Honduras' means depths). The Spanish settled in Trujillo in 1525, but soon became interested in colonizing the cooler highlands. They established a capital at Comayagua in central Honduras in 1537, and this remained the political and religious center of the country for 350 years, until Tegucigalpa became the capital in 1880.
The Indians resisted Spanish colonialism, and, by some accounts, almost managed to drive the colonizers from the mainland. The chief of the Lenca tribe, Lempira, led 30,000 Indians against the Spanish, but was treacherously murdered at peace talks in 1538, and by the following year resistance was crushed. Gold and silver were discovered near Tegucigalpa in 1570, attracting British and Dutch pirates to the Trujillo area. Around 1600, the Spanish estimated that Roatán was home to 5000 British buccaneers. Trujillo was sacked in 1643 by Dutch pirates and was not resettled by the Spanish until 1787.
While Spain concentrated its energies on the interior, the British were attracted to the Caribbean coast by stands of mahogany, and brought Black settlers from Jamaica and other West Indian islands to harvest the timber. Following an appeal by chiefs of the Miskito Indians, a British protectorate was declared over the entire coastal region extending from Honduras into Nicaragua. This lasted until 1859, when the area was relinquished to Honduras.
Independence from Spain was granted in 1821. Honduras briefly became part of independent Mexico, but then joined the Central American Federation. Conflicts between conservatives and liberals led to a break from the union, and Honduras declared independence as a separate nation in 1838. Since then, power has alternated between two political factions and a succession of military regimes. There have been hundreds of coups, rebellions, electoral `irregularities' and Machiavellian manipulations since independence. The most infamous was the incursion by American filibuster William Walker in 1860, whose ill-fated attempt to take over Central America ended with defeat in Trujillo.
Where William Walker failed to gain control of Honduras for the USA, US fruit companies succeeded. Around the end of the 19th century, land on Honduras' fertile north coast was purchased by US companies on generous terms, in order to ship bananas to the southern USA. Three US companies (Standard Fruit, Cuyamel Fruit and United Fruit) eventually owned 75% of all Honduran banana groves. Bananas accounted for 66% of all Honduran exports in 1913, making the companies extremely powerful players in Honduran politics. Each company allied themselves with domestic political factions, and the rivalries between the three US fruit companies shaped Honduran politics in the first half of the 20th century.
In 1969, Honduras and El Salvador had a brief war known as the Soccer War, which resulted in El Salvadoran troops invading Honduran territory and bombing Honduran airports. The war, which took place during a World Cup qualifying soccer match between the two countries, was sparked by the alleged mistreatment of El Salvadoran immigrants in Honduras. It lasted only 100 hours but soured relations between the two neighbors for over a decade.
During the 1980s, Honduras was surrounded by the turmoil in Nicaragua, El Salvador and Guatemala, and became a haven for Somoza's National Guardsmen (known as Contras) when Sandinistas overthrew the Nicaraguan dictator. Strong US influence, aid and military assistance maintained stability in Honduras throughout this period, as the country became the focus of US policy and strategic operations in the region. Huge sums of money and thousands of US troops were funneled into the country as the US conducted provocative operations to destabilize Nicaragua, using Nicaraguan refugee camps in Honduras as bases for their covert war. The US was also training the Salvadoran military at Salvadoran refugee camps inside Honduras. Public outcry, political instability, the exposé of the Iran-Contra scandal and the knowledge that 12,000 Contras were operating from Honduras, resulted in anti-American demonstrations which drew crowds of 60,000 people in Tegucigalpa. The government finally re-examined its role as a US military base, refused to sign a new military agreement with the US and told the Contras to leave Honduras. With the election of Chamorra as President of Nicaragua in 1990, the Contra War ended and the Contras left Honduras.
Since then, Honduras' problems have been largely economic, with falling exports, a growing foreign debt and a shrinking GNP per capita. Aid from the US has shrunk since Honduras is no longer the linchpin of US Central American policy. Trade with Europe is now twice that of trade with the US, but Honduras is still vulnerable to volatile price fluctuations of banana and coffee prices. The center-right Liberal Party is headed by President Carlos Flores Facussé who was elected in November 1997. Flores has strong ties to the US and is co-owner of the newspaper La Tribuna.
In November 1998, international aid and relief workers poured into Central America to help with the recovery from the devastation left by Hurricane Mitch. Honduras was the hardest hit by Mitch's rampage. The three days of rain that followed Mitch caused landslides and floods that buried towns and destroyed over 100 bridges throughout the country. When the Rio Choluteca flooded, it devastated Tegucigalpa, the capital, sweeping things down river and leaving behind an ocean of mud.
GDP: US$3.1 billion
GDP per head: US$580
Inflation: 11%
Major industries: Coffee, bananas, beef, sugar cane, tobacco, forestry
Major trading partners: EU, USA
Spanish is the principal language and is spoken throughout the country, although English (spoken with a broad Caribbean accent) is the language of choice in the Bay Islands. The remaining Indian tribes have their own distinct languages.
Roman Catholicism is the predominant religion, but there are also many other Christian sects and denominations, including Mormons, Jehovah's Witnesses, Seventh Day Adventists, Baptists, Pentecostals, Assemblies of God, Evangelicals and so on. The indigenous tribes have their own religions, often existing alongside Christianity and incorporating elements of African and Indian animism and ancestor worship.
Honduran crafts include woodcarving (notably wooden instruments), basketry, embroidery and textile arts, leathercraft and ceramics. The country's cuisine is based around beans, rice, tortillas, fried bananas, meat, potatoes, cream and cheese.
There are festivities in just about every town to celebrate saint's days. The fair for the Virgen de Suyapa, patron saint of Honduras, is celebrated in Suyapa, 7km (4mi) southeast of Tegucigalpa, during the first two weeks of February. Services and festivities attract pilgrims from all over Central America. Carnaval at La Ceiba is celebrated during the third week of May with parades, costumes and street music. There are other popular fairs in Copán Ruinas (15 to 20 March), Tela (13 June), Trujillo (24 June), San Pedro Sula (last week in June) and Danlí (last weekend in August). The Feria Centroamericana de Tourismo y Artesanía, a Central American international artisans' and tourism fair, is held annually from 6 to 16 December in Tegucigalpa. Another cultural fair is held in Copán Ruinas from 15 to 21 December.
 Facts for the Traveler
Visas: Citizens of most Western European countries, Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the UK and the US can stay 30 days without a visa. Extensions giving a total stay of 90 days are possible.
Health risks: Cholera, hepatitis, HIV/AIDS, malaria
Time: GMT/UTC minus 6 hours
Electricity: 110V and 220V
Weights & measures: Metric (see the conversion table.)
 Money & Costs
Currency: Lempira
Relative costs:
- Budget room: US$7-10
- Moderate hotel: US$10-25
- Top-end hotel: US$25 and upwards
- Budget meal: US$2-5
- Moderate restaurant meal: US$5-10
- Top-end restaurant meal: US$10 and upwards
May through June are great times to catch several town fairs and celebrations, including a week long carnival held in La Ceiba during the third week of May. The coastal lowlands are warm year-round, while the mountainous interior can be cool and rainy, especially between May and October. On the Caribbean coast it rains practically all the time and floods can occur on the north coast, impeding travel.
 Warning
Hurricane Mitch devastated Honduras and the US Department of State recommends that travellers check with local authorities regarding the status of transportation and the availability of facilities. Because of the destruction of many of the roads, towns and villages, many areas are without adequate food, water and medical supplies and health officials have warned that a cholera epidemic is possible.
Tegucigalpa
The capital of Honduras is a busy, noisy city nestled into a bowl-shaped valley nearly 1000m (3280ft) above sea level. It has a fresh and pleasant climate and the surrounding ring of mountains are covered in pine trees. The name Tegucigalpa means `silver hill' in the local dialect, and it was bestowed when the Spanish founded the city as a mining center in 1578. Fortunately, the locals call the city Tegus for short, saving foreigners the embarrassment of mispronouncing the full name. Tegucigalpa became the capital in 1880 and, in 1938, the nearby settlement of Comayagüela was incorporated into the city.
The focus of the city is the domed 18th-century cathedral, which has a baroque interior full of fine art. Parque Central in front of the cathedral is the hub of the city. Interesting buildings include the old university, Antiguo Paraninfo Universitaria, now an art museum; the modern Palacio Legislativo, which is built on stilts; the Casa Presidencial; and the 16th-century Iglesia de San Francisco, the first church built in Tegucigalpa.
The city is divided by the Río Choluteca. On the east side is Tegucigalpa, with the city center and more affluent districts; across the river is Comayagüela, a poorer, dirtier market area with lots of long-distance bus stations and cheap hotels. It is cleaner, safer and more pleasant to stay in Tegucigalpa, although popular wisdom says it's cheaper in Comayagüela. If you do stay in Comayagüela, it's very dangerous to walk through the market area at night. The main area for budget accommodation in Tegucigalpa is a few blocks east of the Parque Central; in Comayagüela, the best cheap hotels are around the El Rey and Aurora bus stations, between 8a and 9a Calles. Most of the good restaurants are on the Tegucigalpa side of the river, but Comayagüela has plenty of cheap Chinese restaurants. In Tegucigalpa, Boulevard Morazán and Avenida Juan Pablo II are the main nightlife areas.
Around Tegucigalpa
There are plenty of attractions around Tegucigalpa, including the huge Gothic Basílica de Suyapa, 7km (4mi) southeast of the city center. The Virgen de Suyapa, patron saint of Honduras, is believed to have performed hundreds of miracles. Santa Lucia, 13km (8mi) east of the city, is a charming old Spanish town with meandering lanes and a beautiful church. Valle de Angeles, 11km (7mi) past Santa Lucia, is an old Spanish mining town restored to its 16-century appearance. La Tigra National Park, northeast of the city, is one of the most beautiful places in Honduras. Located at an altitude of 2270m (7446ft), the pristine 7482-hectare (18,480-acre) park preserves a lush cloud forest that is home to ocelots, pumas, monkeys and quetzal.
Comayagua was the capital of Honduras from 1537 to 1880, and retains much evidence of its colonial importance. The cathedral in the center of the town is a gem. Built between 1685 and 1715, it contains much fine art and boasts one of the oldest clocks in the world. The clock was made over 800 years ago by the Moors for the palace of Alhambra in Seville, and was donated to the town by King Philip II of Spain. The first university in Central America was founded in Comayagua in 1632 in the Casa Cural, which now houses the Museo Colonial. The museum has religious art spanning four centuries of colonial rule. Comayagua's first church was La Merced, built between 1550 and 1558; other fine churches include San Francisco (1584) and La Caridad (1730).
Copán Ruinas
This beautiful village with cobbled streets passing among white adobe buildings with red-tiled roofs is 1km from the famous Maya ruins of the same name. The village has a lovely colonial church and an aura of timeless peace. The archaeological site at the ruins is open daily and includes the Stelae of the Great Plaza, portraying the rulers of Copán, dating from 613; the ball court and hieroglyphic stairway; and the Acropolis, which has superb carved reliefs of the 16 kings of Copán. There are hot springs a 1-hour drive from the village, and the nearby picturesque mountain village of Santa Rita de Copán has a beautiful plaza and a peaceful colonial church.
Tela
Tela is many travelers' favorite Honduran Caribbean beach town. It's a small, quiet place, with superb seafood, several good places to stay and some of the most beautiful beaches on the northern coast. It's basically a place for relaxing and enjoying the simple life. The US$25 million Tela Bay Development Project plans to boost tourism in the area, so see the place while it's still unspoilt and quiet. The best beach is east of the town, in front of the Hotel Villas Telamar. It has pale, powdery sand and a shady grove of coconut trees.
Trujillo
The small town of Trujillo has played an important role in Honduran history. It sits on the wide arc of the Bahía de Trujillo and is famed for its lovely beaches, coconut palms and gentle seas. Though it has a reputation as one of the country's best Caribbean beach towns, it's not usually full of tourists, except during the annual festival in late June. Apart from the attractions of the beach, there is a 17th-century fortress, the grave of William Walker and a Museo Arqueológico. To the west of the town is the Barrio Cristales, where the Garífuna people live; this is the place to go for music, dancing and revelry.
Bay Islands
The three Bay Islands - Roatán, Guanaja and Utila - 50km (31mi) off the north coast of Honduras are a continuation of the Belizean reefs and offer great snorkeling and diving. The islands' economy is based mostly on fishing, but tourism is becoming increasingly important. Utila retains low-key tourist facilities, while Roatán is gradually joining Guanaja as a more up-market retreat. Most travelers head to West End on Roatán, but Utila is the cheapest of the three islands to visit. Whichever island you visit, make sure you bring plenty of insect repellent because the sandflies are voracious, especially during the rainy season.
The islands have an interesting history, including evidence of Maya occupation. Columbus landed on Guanaja in 1502, but the Spanish later enslaved the islanders and sent them to work on plantations in Cuba and in the gold and silver mines of Mexico. By 1528, the islands were completely depopulated. English, French and Dutch pirates then occupied the islands, followed by the Garífuna, who were shipped here by the British after an uprising on St Vincent. The islands, in many ways, still look more towards England and the US than to the Honduran mainland, and a richly Caribbean version of English is the main language.
Mosquitia
This vast, inaccessible region in northeastern Honduras is inhabited by small groups of Miskito, Paya and Sumo Indians. Travelers are attracted by the pristine wilderness and abundant wildlife, including manatees, monkeys, alligators and fine bird life. Infrastructure is nonexistent, so be prepared to rough it, carry in food supplies and eat with local families. Attractions include the magnificent Río Plátano Nature Reserve and boat trips on the rivers and lagoons.
Hog Islands
The Cayos Cochinos, or Hog Islands, are a group of small, privately owned islands and cays, 17km (10mi) off the coast near La Ceiba. They were once inhabited by Maya, but got their name from the conquistador Cortés, who tried to farm them. There is good snorkeling and diving around the islands, some of which have black coral reefs. Boats to the islands can be hired from Nueva Armenia, 40km (25mi) east of La Ceiba. There is an up-market resort on one of the islands, but you should be able to camp on the cays if you ask the owners' permission.
There are mangrove forests, swamps, a small tropical rainforest, offshore reefs and a rocky point in this exquisite national marine park. The area, west of Tela, is completely unspoilt and undeveloped, so visitors need to take their own food and a tent or hammock. Getting to the park is an adventure in itself and takes about two days by a combination of bus, truck, boat and walking. Access will improve under plans laid down by the Tela Bay Development Project, but the environmental impact of this scheme has not been calculated. See the park while you can.
El Tigre
This 783m (2568ft) high volcanic island in the Golfo de Fonseca is home to the quiet fishing village of Amapala, a couple of decent beaches and some good walks. Apart from the tranquility, the other major drawcards are the good views and the seafood. Small boats and a car ferry access the island from Coyolito.
 Activities
There is great snorkeling, diving and swimming around the Bay and Hog islands, and nice beaches around Tela and Trujillo. For the best walks, try Parque Nacional Celaque, 45km (28mi) southeast of Santa Rosa de Copán. It contains the country's highest peak, a lush cloud forest, the headwaters of 10 rivers and a majestic waterfall. There are also vertical cliffs for expert mountain climbers. Parque Nacional Pico Bonito, a few km south of La Ceiba, has trails around the fringes of the 500 sq km (195 sq mi) unexplored reserve and a challenging peak for mountaineers.
 Getting There & Away
There are international flights to and from Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula, with frequent and direct connections to other Central American capitals and many destinations in North America. The departure tax on international flights is approximately US$16.
Honduran border crossings are open daily between around 7 am and 5 to 6 pm. There's a token and somewhat unofficial charge for entry and exit, but it's usually so small that it's best to pay unless the amount demanded is excessive. The main crossings to Guatemala are at Agua Caliente and El Florido; to El Salvador at El Amatillo and El Poy; and to Nicaragua at El Espino, Guasaule and Las Manos. Frequent buses serve all the crossing points, but most buses do not cross the borders, so you have to walk on foot to the other side and connect with another bus.
The Jungle Trail is a route between Puerto Cortés in Honduras and Puerto Barrios in Guatemala. The trip takes two days and should not be undertaken without adequate preparation. Hiring a guide will prevent you getting lost and may provide some measure of protection against bandits who have been known to operate in this area.
Although there are no regular passenger ships to or from Honduras, it's often possible to arrange passage with a fishing or cargo vessel if you pay your way. Negotiate directly with the captain. On the Caribbean coast, you may find boats around Puerto Cortés, La Ceiba, Puerto Castilla, Tela or the Bay Islands. The most common destinations for boats will be Puerto Barrios (Guatemala), Belize, Puerto Cabezas (Nicaragua), the Caribbean islands and New Orleans or Miami in the US. On the Pacific coast, try San Lorenzo to find boats to Nicaragua or El Salvador.
Domestic flights are available between Tegucigalpa, San Pedro Sula, La Ceiba and Roatán. Isleña and between La Ceiba, the Bay Islands and towns in the Mosquitia region. There are frequent buses to most towns; the first bus usually leaves at the crack of dawn, the last late in the afternoon.
The only passenger train services are in the north between San Pedro, Puerto Cortés and Tela. Trains are slow, rudimentary and very cheap. Services have been disrupted in the past, so check whether the trains are actually running before planning to use one. Boats are common modes of transport between the Bay Islands and along the Caribbean coast, especially in Mosquitia, where there's just one road.
There are plenty of taxis in most towns but they are not metered, so negotiate a fare before you get in. Car rental is available in main towns and the main roads offer excellent driving. However, this is not a cheap way to travel, and away from the highways the roads are unpaved and can be dusty in the dry season and slippery when wet. Hitching is generally easy in rural areas, where trucks often stop to pick up passengers.
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