DESTINATION BELIZE

Dabbling its toes in the Caribbean Sea, Belize has more in common with its island neighbors than with the fiery volatility of the rest of Central America. English-speaking, Creole-dominated and with a thoroughly coup-free history, most of this tiny country has an atmosphere so laid-back it's almost comatose.

Belize can be a difficult place to travel - there are only two paved roads in the whole country, prices are high for this part of the world and hotels are few and far between. But although Belize has only one brand of beer, it compensates with some of the best diving in the world, dramatic Mayan ruins looming out of untouched jungle and restaurants that serve fried chinchilla.

Map of Belize (10K)

Slide Show

Facts at a Glance
Environment
History
Economy
Culture
Events
Facts for the Traveler
Money & Costs
When to Go

Attractions
Off the Beaten Track
Activities
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Recommended Reading
Lonely Planet Guides
Travelers' Reports on Belize
On-line Info

Facts at a Glance

Full country name: Belize
Area: 23,300 sq km (9087 sq mi)
Population: 200,000 (growth rate 3.5%)
Capital city: Belmopan (pop 5,000)
People: 50% Creole, 30% mestizo, 10% Maya, 10% Garifuna (plus a sizable migrant population from nearby countries, notably El Salvador)
Language: English, English Creole, Spanish, Maya and Garífuna
Religion: 62% Catholic, 25% Protestant
Government: Parliamentary democracy
Prime Minister: Said Musa

Environment

Belize is a Lilliputian country located in the southeast of the Yucatán Peninsula, on the Caribbean coast of the Central American isthmus. It shares borders with Mexico to the north and Guatemala to the west. The country consists predominantly of tropical lowland and swampy plains, though the Maya Mountains in the west rise to almost 1000m (3280ft). Thirty kilometers (19mi) offshore is the world's second largest barrier reef.

Half of the country is covered by dense jungle, the rest is farmland, scrub and swamp. The tropical forests provide habitats for a wide range of animals, including jaguar, puma, ocelot, armadillo, tapir and crocodile. The country also harbors keel-billed toucan, an abundance of macaws and parrots, and heron and snowy egret.

Belize is hot and humid year round, but respite from the weather can be found in the cooler mountains or from the tropical breezes which waft over the cayes. Rainfall is a whopping 4m (13ft) a year, most of it falling between June and November.

History

The first inhabitants of Belize were the Maya and Carib Indians. Belize was a part of the great Mayan empire which stretched through Guatemala, southern Mexico and parts of Honduras and El Salvador. Though the history of the Maya can be traced back for over 4000 years, the Classic Period of more advanced Mayan civilization began around the 3rd century AD and reached its height between the 6th and 8th centuries. By the 14th century it was in serious decline. When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century, many of the Mayan cities were deserted.

The Spanish considered Belize a backwater suitable only for cutting logwood to be used for dye. Although the Spanish `owned' Belize, they did not rule it. The lack of effective government and the safety afforded by the reef attracted English and Scottish pirates during the 17th century. When piracy became passé, many of the pirates began working in the logging trade. Belize was already British by tradition and sympathy when a British force routed the Spanish armada off St George's Caye in 1798, delivering Belize from Spanish rule. In 1862, while the USA was embroiled in its Civil War and unable to enforce the terms of the Monroe Doctrine, Great Britain declared Belize to be the colony of British Honduras.

After WW II, the Belize economy weakened, leading to agitation for independence. Democratic political parties and institutions were formed and self-government was granted in 1964. The government decided to build a new capital at Belmopan in 1970, after Hurricane Hattie all but destroyed Belize City in 1961. Full independence became a reality in September 1981 when British Honduras officially became Belize. Guatemala, which had territorial claims on Belize, threatened war in 1972, but British troops were stationed in Belize to make sure the dispute remained purely diplomatic. During the volatile 1980s, Belize remained stable and pro-US, thanks predominantly to large influxes of US aid. In 1992, a new Guatemalan government recognized Belize's territorial integrity. The British garrison was withdrawn in 1994; Belize now has a standing army of only 550 soldiers.

Since the fall of General Noriega in Panama, Belize has become a major transshipment point for cocaine heading into the US from South America. Illegal cultivation and smuggling of marijuana is also prevalent.

Economic Profile

GDP: US$575 million
GDP per head: US$2,750
Inflation: 2.3%
Major industries: Sugar cane, fish, timber
Major trading partners: USA, UK, Europe

Culture

The Maya built breathtaking temple complexes aligned to the movement of celestial bodies. Although they remained technically a Stone Age culture, they also developed sophisticated mathematics, astronomy and calendars. The Spanish constructed some plain stone churches, but the modern architecture is predominantly British Caribbean in style.

Belize is officially English-speaking, but the creoles (the largest ethnic group) speak their own colorful dialect as well as standard English. Spanish is the main language in the north and some towns in the west. You may also hear Mayan, Chinese, Mennonite German, Lebanese, Arabic, Hindi and Garífuna (the language of the Garinagu people of Stann Creek district) being spoken.

The majority of Belize's population are Roman Catholics, but British influence has created a sizable and varied protestant congregation, including German Swiss Mennonites. The Mayan practice of Catholicism is a fascinating fusion of shamanist-animist and Christian ritual.

Belize has never really developed a national cuisine. Its cooking borrows elements from the UK, the USA, Mexico and the Caribbean. The traditional staples are rice and beans. These are often eaten with chicken, pork, beef, fish or vegetables. Coconut milk and fried plaintain add a tropical flavor. Exotic traditional foods include armadillo, venison and gibnut (a small brown-spotted rodent similar to a guinea pig).

Events

The big national holidays are dictated by the Roman Catholic calendar, but other celebrations include the wonderfully titled Baron Bliss Day (9 March), which honors a philanthropic British nobleman who fell in love with Belize and donated millions of dollars to worthy causes. Belize National Day (10 Sept) commemorates the Battle of St George's Caye; celebrations continue until Independence Day (21 Sept). More festivities occur on Colombus Day (12 Oct) and Garífuna Settlement Day (19 Nov). The latter commemorates the arrival of the Garinagus (Black Caribs) in dugout canoes from Honduras in 1823. Dangriga is the place to celebrate this festival: the small town explodes in a frenzy of dancing and drinking.

Facts for the Traveler

Visas: Citizens of the US, European Union and Commonwealth countries do not require visas if they have a passport and return ticket. All other nationalities require a visa. British embassies frequently handle Belize's diplomatic affairs.
Health risks: Cholera, dengue fever, hepatitis, malaria, rabies and typhoid
Time: GMT/UTC minus 6 hours
Electricity: 110V, 60 Hz
Weights & Measures: Metric (see the conversion table.)

Money & Costs

Currency: Belizean dollar (BZ$)

Relative costs:

Budget room: US$8-12
Moderate hotel: US$12-20
Top-end hotel: US$20 and upwards
Budget meal: US$3-7
Moderate restaurant meal: US$7-10
Top-end restaurant meal: US$10 and upwards

Compared to the rest of Central America, Belize can be expensive. Even if you're traveling there on a budget, you'll pay at least US$15 (and more often US$20) per day for a room and three meals. On the upside, staying at a flashier hotel and eating decently won't push your costs up much higher than this.

It's easy to change US dollars just about anywhere, and US dollar travelers' cheques, pounds sterling and Canadian dollars can be changed at any bank. Other currencies could cause you difficulties. You can change money legally on the street or at border crossings (at a better rate than the banks will give you). Belizean ATMs will not accept foreign cards.

Haggling is not a popular pastime in Belize, but it might be worth a try if business looks slow. Only the posher restaurants, bars and clubs are likely to expect a tip - 10% is the going rate.

When to Go

The best time to travel is the dry season between December and May, but this is also the busy winter tourist season, when prices rise and hotels fill up. It's cheaper to travel in summer (July to November), but keep in mind that this is hurricane season.

Attractions

Belize City

This ramshackle, colorful Caribbean city of 80,000 souls was Belize's former capital and is the country's only settlement of any size. The tropical storms which periodically razed the town in the 19th and early 20th centuries still arrive to do damage to its aging wooden buildings, but they also flush out the open drainage canals, redolent with pollution, which crisscross the city. When there's no storm, Belize City bustles, steams and swelters. Few people come to Belize City for a holiday or to see the sights but it's the transport and commercial hub of the country, so travelers are likely to spend some time here. Some travelers report that the city can be quite dangerous, particularly after dark.

Belize City (15K)

The city's commercial center is divided from the more genteel northern neighborhoods by Haulover Creek, a branch of the Belize River. The creek is spanned by the Swing Bridge. Interesting spots south of the bridge include Battlefield Park, which is always busy with vendors, loungers and con men; St John's Cathedral (1847), the oldest and most important Anglican church in Central America; and the Bliss Institute, the city's cultural center. North of the bridge is the wood-framed Paslow Building, housing the city's main post office, and the Fort George Lighthouse.

Wooden house, Belize City (16K)

North Front St, on the north bank of Haulover Creek, has a good selection of budget accommodations. The luxury hotels are located at the end of the north shore peninsula. The main commercial streets are Albert, Regent, King and Orange Sts.

The Cayes

Belize's 290km (180mi) long barrier reef is the longest reef in the western hemisphere. To the west of the reef are numerous cayes basking in warm water usually not much more than 5m (16ft) deep. The two most popular with travelers are Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye. Caulker is commonly thought of as the low-budget island; Ambergris is more resort-oriented.

Caye Caulker (17K)

Caye Caulker (pop 800), 33km (20mi) north of Belize City, is 7km (4mi) long and only about 600m (1968ft) wide at its widest point. Mangroves cover much of the shore and coconut palms provide shade. The reef is just a short boat ride from the eastern shore and offers some of the world's most exciting diving, snorkeling and fishing. Underwater visibility can be an astonishing 60m (197ft) and the coral and tropical fish are wonderful. Don't swim out to the reef from the beach unless you want to gamble on a 50-50 chance of being decapitated by boat propellers.

Palm avenue, Caye Caulker (16K)

Ambergris Caye (pop 2000), 58km (36mi) north of Belize City, is the largest of the country's cayes. It's 40km (25mi) long and connected to the Mexican mainland on its northern side. Like Caulker, it has an engaging laid-back atmosphere, though holiday condominiums are beginning to appear. The reef is 1km (.5mi) east of the main town of San Pedro. There are a host of excursions offered to diving and snorkeling spots and to other cayes in the region, including to Blue Hole, Half Moon Caye and Turneffe Islands, the only three coral atolls in the western hemisphere.

Lamanai

This impressive, semi-restored, semi-excavated Mayan site is located in its own archaeological reserve near the settlement of Indian Church. Its 60 structures include a grand 34m (112ft) high late Pre-Classic building, a small temple and a ball court. Lamanai (submerged crocodile) was occupied as early as 1500 BC and became a major ceremonial center with immense temples long before most Mayan sites. The Maya lived here right up until the arrival of the Spanish; two ruined Indian churches nearby testify to the fact that there were still Maya here to be converted. The 90-minute boat trip up the New River from Orange Walk to reach the site is an adventure in itself. The boat passes the Mennonite community of Shipyard and offers the opportunity to see plenty of birdlife and crocodiles.

Not only saps get stuck in gum

Xunantunich

Xunantunich (Stone Maiden) is the archaeological pride of Belize, although you might find it anticlimatic if you've seen Tikal or Copán. Set on a levelled hilltop near the Belize River close to the Guatemalan border, Xunantunich controlled the riverside track which led from the hinterlands down to the Caribbean coast. The site flourished as a ceremonial center and is thought to have been abandoned after an earthquake damaged it around 900 AD. The site has not been extensively restored, though its tallest building - El Castillo - rises an impressive 40m (131ft) out of the jungle.

Off the Beaten Track

Placencia

Perched at the southern tip of a long, narrow, sandy peninsula in Southern Belize, this laid-back beach town is worth every bump and grind of the dirt roads you need to travel to get here. All commerce and activity used to be carried out by boat, thus the village's `main street' is just a narrow concrete footpath less than 1m (3ft) wide. The main attractions are the beaches and watersports, but there's also fishing, bird and manatee watching, overnight camping on remote cayes, and excursions to jungle rivers and the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary. The latter is home to jaguars, pumas, ocelots, margays, agoutis, anteaters, armadillos and boa constictors.

Placencia hotel (13K)

Activities

The Cayes and the Belize Reef are a paradise for water sports enthusiasts, offering all the swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, sailing, windsurfing and fishing anyone could ever wish for. If that's still not enough, travelers can canoe on the Macal, Mopan and Belize Rivers around San Ignacio and tube through caves along the Chiquibul River. The best hiking trails are in Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve and the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary. Bird-watchers should check out the rivers, swamps and lagoons of the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, midway between Belize City and Orange Walk Town, which attract flocks of migrating birds between November and March.

Getting There & Away

International flights to Belize City tend to go through Houston, Los Angeles or Miami. There are also flights between Belize and Guatemala. A departure tax of US$15 and a small airport security fee are payable by travelers departing by air. There are bus services from Belize City to Chetumal (Mexico) and to Benque Viejo del Carmen and Melchor de Mencos (Guatemala). A token exit tax is payable at Belizean land border-crossing points. You can travel by boat from Punta Gorda in southern Belize to Puerto Barrios and Lívingston (Guatemala), or from Dangriga and Placencia to Puerto Cortés (Honduras).

Getting Around

Belize has few paved roads and no rail network, so it depends heavily on small airplanes for transport. There are domestic airports in Belize City, Caye Caulker, Corozal, Dangriga, Placencia, Punta Gorda and San Pedro. Buses travel fairly regularly on the country's two paved roads (between Corozal and Belize City, and between Benque Viejo Del Carmen and Belize City). Most other roads are narrow one or two-lane dirt roads, often impassable after heavy rains. Cars can be rented in Belize City if you're at least 25 years old. Bicycles and motorbikes can be hired on the Cayes. Fast and frequent motor launches connect Belize City with Caye Chapel, Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye.

Local transport on Caye Caulker (17K)