DESTINATION RÉUNION

Environment

There are two major mountain zones on Réunion; one covers two-thirds of the island's western half. The highest peak is Piton des Neiges at 3069m (10,066ft) an alpine-class peak. Surrounding it are the three immense and splendid amphitheatres: the cirques of Cilaos, Mafate and Salazie. These long, wide, deep hollows are sheer-walled canyons filled with convoluted peaks and valleys, the eroded remnants of the ancient volcanic shield which surrounded Piton des Neiges. The smaller mountain zone lies in the south-east and is still evolving. No one lives in the shadow of the volcano, where lava flowing down to the shore has left a jumbled slope of cooled black volcanic rock. Between these two major mountainous zones are the high plains and the valley plains, and all the central plains are ringed by a coastal plain of varying width.

Réunion not only cops it from the volcano now and again, it also gets a lashing from cyclones. A major recent one was Cyclone Clotilde, which crashed into the island on Black Friday (13 February 1987 - a memorable Friday the 13th), causing millions of dollars of damage to crops, roads and buildings. There was another nasty cyclone in 1992. Because of the high mountains, the island's climate varies more than that of Mauritius. However, it still experiences only two distinct seasons: the hot, rainy summer from October to March and the cool, dry winter from April to September. The windward east coast is considerably wetter than the dry, brown west coast, but the wettest region is the heights above the east coast.

Temperatures on the coast average 21°C (70°F) during winter and 28°C (82°F) during summer. In the mountains, they drop to a 12°C (54°F) daily high in winter and 18°C (64°F) in summer.

History

There was no great rush to populate and develop the island and, from around 1685, Indian Ocean pirates began using Île Bourbon as a trading base. Until 1715, the French East India Company was content to provide only for its own needs and those of passing ships, but then coffee was introduced, and between 1715 and 1730 it became the island's main cash crop and as a result the economy changed dramatically. The French enslaved Africans to do the intensive labour required for coffee cultivation. During this period, grains, spices and cotton were also brought in as cash crops.

Like Mauritius, Réunion came of age under the governourship of the remarkable Mahé de La Bourdonnais who served from 1735 to 1746. However, La Bourdonnais treated Mauritius as the favoured of the sibling islands and Réunion was left in a Cinderella role.

As a result of poor management and the rivalry between France and Britain during the 18th century, as well as the collapse of the French East India Company, the government of the island passed directly to the French crown in 1764. After the French Revolution, it came under the jurisdiction of the Colonial Assembly. In the late 18th century, there were a number of slave revolts and those who managed to escape made their way to the interior. They organised themselves into villages run by democratically elected chiefs and fought to preserve their independence from colonial authorities.

The coffee plantations were destroyed by cyclones very early in the 19th century, and in 1810, during the Napoleonic Wars, Bonaparte lost the island to the British. Five years later, under the Treaty of Paris, the spoil was returned to the French. The British, however, retained their grip on Rodrigues, Mauritius and the Seychelles. Under British rule, sugar cane was introduced to Réunion and quickly supplanted food production as the primary crop. It resulted in the dispossession of many small farmers who were forced to sell out to those with capital to invest in the new monoculture. The supplanted farmers migrated to the interior to find land and carry on with their agricultural activities. During this period, the Desbassyns brothers rose to success as the island's foremost sugar barons. The vanilla industry, introduced in 1819, also grew rapidly.

The golden age of trade and development in Réunion lasted until 1870, when competition from Cuba and the European sugar beet industry, combined with the opening of the Suez Canal, resulted in an economic slump. Shipping decreased, the sugar industry declined and land and capital were further concentrated in the hands of a small French elite.

The island still falls under the jurisdiction of the French government. There have been independence movements from time to time but, unlike those in France's Pacific territories, they have never amounted to anything. Even the Communist Party on the island seeks autonomy rather than independence; and, until recently, Réunion seemed satisfied to remain totally French.

In February 1991, however, anti-government riots in St-Denis left 10 people dead, and a reactionary visit by the French prime minister Michel Rocard in drew jeers from the crowds. By 1993, things appeared to have calmed down but there were still undercurrents of discontent.

As a French department, Réunion suffers from some of the ills affecting metropolitan France: the unemployment rate is extremely high, particularly affecting young people (39% of the population is under 20). Various financial and political scandals have shaken Réunion in recent years.

Economic Profile

Culture

Réunion mixes the African rhythms of reggae, séga and maloya with the best of French, British and American rock and folk music. As for Créole-flavoured modern sounds, the Réunionnais leave that to their tropical cousins in Martinique and Guadeloupe. A local favourite is rastaman Michael Fock, known as Ti-Fock, who adds a synthesised touch to traditional maloya and séga rhythms.

The Catholic faith dominates the island's religious character. It is visible in the shrines along every highway and byway, in caves, on cliff tops and in the many saint's days and holidays. St-Denis shuts down on Sunday, when half the city goes to the beach. Hindus and Muslims follow their respective religions freely and most large towns have both a mosque and a temple. Popular Hindu rites include pandialé (or teemeedee), which involves fire-walking, and cavadee, involving piercing one's cheeks with silver needles, often take place. A great deal of syncretism with Catholicism has evolved over the years, and vice versa.

French is the official language, but Créole is the most widely spoken. Few people speak English. Réunion Créole is even beyond understanding by most French people. A word which means one thing in French can mean something completely different in Créole.

As in France proper, much time and effort in Réunion is devoted to growing, preparing and enjoying food. What's more, the Réunionnais have an array of culinary traditions to choose from - French, Indian, Chinese and Créole - and many recipes contain elements of several cuisines. Graines, which may be red or white beans, lentils or peas, are common ingredients in Créole dishes, and are invariably served as a creamy side dish along with rougail (spicy hot tomato and vegetable chutney) and brédes, greens resembling spinach. If you want to spice up the meal, there is often a bowl of piments (chillies). Beware, you only need a smidgen of the stuff.

Events

Facts for the Traveller

Money & Costs

• Budget meal: US$7-15
  
• Moderate restaurant meal: US$15-25
  
• Top-end restaurant meal: US$25 and upwards

• Budget room: US$20-30
  
• Moderate hotel: US$30-70
  
• Top-end hotel: US$70 and upwards

If you don't want to live in budget accommodation, and intend to indulge in lots of water activities, come with a decent budget. If you intend on staying at the more upmarket hotels, it may be best to take advantage of package rates by booking from overseas. Réunion is an expensive place to visit primarily due to the lack of inexpensive accommodation, though you can head into the hills and camp or stay in mountain huts. If you stay in budget accommodation, you should be able to keep the costs down to about US$30 a day. Otherwise, a moderate budget will require closer to US$50-60 a day; an upscale one can reach the highest heights.

The main banks in Réunion are French. There's technically no problem changing major foreign currencies in Reunion - all banks offer exchange facilities - but low official exchange rates and punitive commissions on changing foreign currency travellers cheques make it sensible to carry French francs, or at least French franc travellers cheques, for your stay in Réunion. Most major credit cards are widely accepted.

Many restaurants include service charges in their prices and don't encourage additional tipping, but those which advertise service non compris on their menus do expect something. Taxi drivers also seem not to expect tips. Few shops in Réunion are open to bargaining.

When to Go

Attractions

The hill districts behind St-Denis offer great views over the town and are starting points for treks to La Roche Écrite, a high peak often obscured by clouds. Although it isn't technically in the Cirque de Mafate, it does offer a spectacular view of the lower cirque. Dawn is the best time to see it.

St-Gilles-les-Bains

About 1km inland is a parking area and a path down to an old irrigation and water supply system. The area encompasses a stunning series of waterfalls and pools. Bassin du Cormoran is the most accessible, reached along a lower path which cuts away from the irrigation canal. When the water level is right, the falls are excellent for swimming and provide an alternative to the beach on hot days.

St-Paul

Off the Beaten Track

Over the years, the original baths and walls became heavily stained and the station was closed in mid-1987 and turned into a museum. A new complex, Établissement Thermal Irénée Accot, using the same source, was opened just up the hill. It will be magic for relaxing after a long hike. There are several from town. Cascade de Bras Rouge is a day walk that begins from town and descends to the old thermal station and then traverses the slopes above the Bras des Étangs. After a couple of hours, you'll arrive at the waterfall Cascade de Bras Rouge.

Cirque de Mafate

Activities

Getting There & Away

Cruise liners mostly give Réunion a miss in favour of the Seychelles or Mauritius.

Getting Around

The Réunion bus service 'Cars Jaunes' (Yellow Coaches) covers most parts of the island with several main routes: St-Denis to St-Pierre; St-Denis to St-Bênoit; St-Pierre to St-Bênoit; St-André to Salazie; and St-Pierre to the Cirque de Cilaos. Public buses are luxurious Mercedes, Renault or Volvo touring coaches, complete with stereos.

The road system on the island is excellent, well signposted and heading into the mountains via the cirque roads is a magnificent experience. As with the rest of France, Réunion keeps to the right. To drive on the island, you must have either a valid French or international driver's licence.

Due to the traffic, the haste of most motorists and the steep and precarious nature of the mountain roads, those considering cycling as a form of transport should be prepared for some hair-raising and potentially dangerous situations. The coastal roads are too busy for casual cycling and the cirque roads are too steep, but the back roads and rugged terrain of the interior are ideally suited to mountain bikes. Several places have sprung up to provide information, hire bikes and organise backcountry tours.

Recommended Reading

• If you're looking for a French treatise on the island, the best choice is Catherine Lavaux's La Réunion: Du Battant des Lames au Sommet des Montagnes.
• Sous le signe de la tortue, voyages anciens à l'île Bourbon is an interesting book which contains old texts gathered by Albert Lougnon, which outline the first journeys made by boat to Réunion.
• For pre-trip reading, look out for Blue Africa by Australian Colin Simpson, who wrote about his organised tour through Africa. It has a chapter on Réunion.
• The island is a fascinating place for the magically minded. Créole beliefs and potions have spawned a number of books and voodoo-style sorcery. For the serious student there is a four-book set entitled Vertus et Secrets des Plantes Médicinales des Tropiques et de la Réunion by Dr Robert Zamore and Ary Ebroin.
• The bible of Créole cookery is Les Délices de la Cuisine Créole. It costs a pretty penny for the six-volume set, but it's the crème de la crème of cookbooks.

• Mauritius, Réunion & Seychelles
• Africa on a shoestring
• French phrasebook

Online Info

• Take the subWWWay to the Réunion

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