DESTINATION MALAWI

Environment

Malawi's main highland areas are the Nyika and Viphya Plateaux, and Mt Mulanje in the south. Malawi's highest point is the summit of Sapitwa (3000m/9840ft) at the centre of Mt Mulanje. The main river in the country is the Shire (pronounced 'Shir-ee'), which flows out of the southern end of Lake Malawi and eventually into the Zambezi River in Mozambique.

Malawi's vegetation includes Miombo woodland, the dominant type, found in wetter areas around 1500m (5000ft); lowland mopane, found in the middle Shire Valley and the southern shores of Lake Malawi; evergreen forest, scattered about the country; montane grassland, found in the rolling hills of the north; and the wetland areas of lakeshores and riverbanks. The country has many different kinds of indigenous wildflowers, due to the wide range of habitats. There are numerous varieties of proteas, aloes, gladioli and helichrysums (knows as 'everlastings'). Malawi is particularly famous for its orchids: more than 400 species have been recorded.

Vast animal herds of the popular easy-to-spot variety are lacking in Malawi, but there are plenty of large animals roaming about. Most are found in the country's national parks and game reserves. Liwonde, the main national park, is noted for its herds of elephant and antelope (including impala, bushbuck and kudu), and hippopotamus in the Shire River. Zebra, warthog, eland, jackal, leopard and hartebeest are more common in the north, especially in Nyika National Park. Malawi is famous for its fish - Lake Malawi has more species than any other inland body of water in the world, with a total over 500. The wet season runs from mid-October or early November to mid or late April; the dry season lasts from may to October or November. Average daily highs peak around 32°C (90°F) in October (although it can get a few degrees hotter in inland areas such as the Shire Valley); July is the coolest month, with daily highs around 21°C (70°F).

History

About 2000 years ago these 'Stone Age Malawians' came under pressure from another race of people, the Bantu, who where gradually migrating into the area. The Bantu brought knowledge of iron working with them, giving them the edge in both agriculture and warfare. Eventually, the Bantu completely dominated the earlier inhabitants. Further migrations brought Bantu peoples from the Congo region, via Tanzania, into northern Malawi. In the south, groups came from present-day Zaïre and established a kingdom that ruled the southern area of the country.

The early 19th century brought two significant migrations. The Yao, from western Mozambique, invaded the highlands of southern Malawi, killing the more peaceful local inhabitants as they went, or capturing them for sale into slavery. The Yao, brandishing firearms supplied them by Arab traders on the east coast, were one of several African tribes who supplied slave traders by raiding the interior. About the same time, Zulus from present-day South Africa began moving into southern Malawi and eventually spread throughout the country, overpowering many local tribes.

The first Europeans to arrive in Malawi were Portuguese explorers who reached the African interior from the east coast of present-day Mozambique. The most famous European explorer to reach this area was David Livingstone, a Scottish missionary who first travelled in Malawi in the 1850s. Despite poor relations with the indigenous people and the ravages of malaria, many Scottish missionaries established missions and convents in Malawi, usually resulting in the death by fever of the missionaries and very few converts among the Africans.

Though less successful at their stated aim, the missionaries did manage to blaze the way for various adventurers and traders, who in turn made Malawi such a hot property that colonisation wasn't far behind. It came in 1878 in the form of the Livingstonia Central African Mission Company, a Scottish concern the object of which was the development of a river route into Central Africa and the introduction of trade. The British government made the Shire Highlands a protectorate in 1889, and expanded its holdings to include much of the land on the western side of Lake Malawi, calling the colony 'Nyasaland.'

As British control expanded, trade and the number of foreigners in the area increased - and so did indigenous resistance to colonisation. The Reverend John Chilembwe led the first serious effort against the British early in the 1900s, who led an attack on a large estate which resulted in the death of its white manager. The colonial authorities crushed the movement, and a no major bids for independence surfaced again until the 1950s.

The British joined Nyasaland with the Federation of Northern and Southern Rhodesia (now Zambia and Zimbabwe), a move that deepened resentment against colonial rule. The Nyasaland African Congress, which had been formed in 1944, was led by Dr Hastings Banda after the federation was announced. A year later, the colonial authorities declared a state of emergency, jailed Banda and went on a rampage that left 52 Africans dead. Opposition continued, strengthened by the release of Banda in 1960. The British negotiated with Banda for elections, which were held the following year and were capped by the overwhelming victory of Banda and his party (now called the Malawian Congress Party). Shortly afterward the Federation of Rhodesia and Nyasaland was dissolved, and Malawi declared its independence in July 1964.

Banda's rule proved to be harsh. Those of his opposition who weren't silenced were driven into exile. Through his business dealings, Banda also controlled the economy completely. As if that weren't enough power, Banda declared himself 'President for Life' in 1971. A cozy relationship with South Africa made the construction of the new capital, Lilongwe (it had previously been at Blantyre), which opened for business in 1975.

The first elections since independence were held in 1978 - a farce, really, considering that Banda personally vetted everyone who intended to run, disqualifying 90% of the field right off the top by submitting potential candidates to an English test. As the 1980s wore on it became increasingly clear that Banda was Malawi - running the political system, the ruling party and the economy. One newspaper estimated that 250,000 people disappeared or were murdered during Banda's 30 year reign. By the 1990s, however, opposition to Banda's totalitarian one-party rule grew, spurred on by the end of the Cold War and the drying up of aid to the west's 'client states' - such as Malawi.

The critical moment came in 1992, when Catholic bishops released a pastoral letter condemning Banda, touching off demonstrations throughout the country. When donor countries cut off all non-humanitarian aid until Banda agreed to relinquish power, the final nail in the coffin went home. Over 80% of the electorate took part in a 1993 referendum, voting for a new system over Banda by a 2-1 ratio. Despite the brief threat of a military coup, multi-party elections went ahead the following year. Bakili Muluzi, a Muslim from Machinga in the south, emerged as the new president. Muluzi immediately set about freeing political prisoners, reestablished freedom of speech and the press and lifted the unofficial night curfew that had marked the Banda years. Banda himself was tried in 1995 for ordering the murder of three government ministers but was acquitted, later apologising for any suffering he may have 'unknowingly caused.' Running a multi-party democracy hasn't been easy, especially with crippling inflation, severe economic reforms, soaring unemployment, malnutrition and rising crime.

Economic Profile

Culture

All the different ethnic groups in Malawi have their own language or dialect. The Chewa are the dominant group and their language, called Chewa or Chichewa, is the national tongue and is widely used throughout the country as a common tongue. English is the official language and is very widely spoken, particularly in the main towns but even sometimes in remote rural areas. Of the other languages spoken in Malawi, Tumbuka is spoken by about 500,000 people in the north, and Yao is spoken by about 600,000 people in the south.

Most people in Malawi are Christian, usually members of one of the Protestant churches founded by missionaries in the late 19th century. There are Muslims in the north, especially along Lake Malawi - a legacy of the Arab slave traders who operated in this area. Alongside the established religions, many Malawians also hold traditional animist beliefs.

Malawian artists who have achieved recognition for their work inside the country and abroad include Cuthy Mede (probably the best known), Kay Chirombo, Willie Nampeya and Louis Dimpwa. They work in various media, producing carvings in stone and wood, batiks and paintings.

Like most other African countries, Malawi has a rich oral tradition. Since independence, a new breed of Malawian writers has emerged. The despotic rule of Hastings Banda sent many of the country's best writers into exile until the mid-1990s. Not surprisingly, oppression, corruption and the abuse of power are common themes for many of them. Most work is written in English and nearly everything is published in English. Notable Malawian poets include Frank Chipasula and Steve Chimombo, whose most highly acclaimed work is The Rainmaker. The country's leading novelists include Legson Kayira, whose semi-autobiographical works on travelling in Africa brought acclaim in the 1970s, and Sam Mpasu, whose work (like that of several other Malawian writers) landed him in jail for a few years.

Traditional music and dance are deeply rooted in social functions in Malawi. Most tribes have their own tunes and dances. Musical instruments include drums such as the hand-held ulimba, made from gourd, to ceremonial giants carved from tree-trunks; and the mambilira, similar to the western xylophone. Various rattles and shakers called maseche are tied to dancers' legs and arms. The most notable traditional dance in Malawi is the Chewa tribe's Gule Wamkulu, which reflects indigenous beliefs in spirits and is connected to the activities of secret societies.

Events

Facts for the Traveller

Money & Costs

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