DESTINATION LIBYA

Despite the country's demonisation in Western mass media, most travellers who have visited Libya report having a grand old time. The Libyan people enjoy a well-earned a reputation for kindness and hospitality toward visitors, and, unlike most North African destinations, the country's streets and souqs are free of the hassles of touts and their hard sell.

And Libya's not all date palms and deserts, either. For a country that's been all but swallowed by the Sahara, you'll be surprised to see how pleasantly Mediterranean it can be ... provided you stick to the northern coastal area. There you'll learn that Tripoli is as urbane as any place in Africa and a good deal more than most, while the Jebel Akhdar region to the east is a lot closer to verdant Crete than it is to crunchy and crumbling. Of course, if shifting sand dunes and camel trains are your thing, Libya's got desert for days, and a quick jaunt down into the Fezzan will take you boldly where nomad has gone before. From ancient Greek and Roman ruins to modern art and oil money, Libya's a world unto itself (and the UN's working to keep it that way).

Map of Libya (12K)


Facts at a Glance
Environment
History
Economy
Culture
Events
Facts for the Traveller
Money & Costs
When to Go
Attractions
Off the Beaten Track
Activities
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Recommended Reading
Lonely Planet Guides
Travellers' Reports on Libya
On-line Info


Facts at a Glance

Full country name: Socialist People's Libyan Arab Jamahiriya
Area: 1,759,540 sq km (679,360 sq mi)
Population: 5.7 million
Capital city: Tripoli (pop 1.5 million)
People: Berber and Arab (97%), plus some Greeks, Maltese, Italians, Egyptians, Pakistanis, Turks, Indians, Tunisians
Language: Arabic, Italian, English
Religion: Sunni Muslim (97%)
Government: Jamahiriya, or 'state of the masses,' theoretically governed by the people
Chief of State: Colonel Muammar Abu Minyar al-Qaddafi
Premier: Muhammad Ahmad al-Manqush


Environment

In the middle of Mediterranean North Africa, Libya sits surrounded by Chad and Niger to the south, Egypt and the Sudan to the east and Algeria and Tunisia to the west. A bit smaller than the US state of Alaska and more than three times the size of France, the country clocks in as the fourth largest country in Africa. Within its boundaries, Libya is divided into three main regions: Tripolitania covers the north-western corner of the country, the Fezzan everything south of Tripolitania, and Cyrenaica the entire eastern half. Each of these divisions if further subdivided by several large municipalities.

Only a narrow coastal strip receives enough rainfall to be suitable for agriculture, and it's here that you'll find the capital city, Tripoli, as well as 90% of the population. North-eastern Libya, the Jebel Akhdar area (also known as the Green Mountains), is the most verdant and arguably the most beautiful part of the country. Its interior, on the other hand, is largely uninhabited desert peppered with small oasis communities. In the extreme south are the Tibesti and Tassili mountains of the central Sahara, while the Calanscio Sand Sea, a vast area of shifting sand dunes, lies on the east near the Egyptian border. The Murzuk and Ubari sand seas lie in the west.

There are no permanent rivers in Libya, only wadis (watercourses), which catch the infrequent runoff from rainfall. The discovery of vast fossil aquifers in the south and south-east has prompted the building of a huge pipeline to bring water to the coastal areas for use in agriculture and industry. The Great Man-Made River project is among the largest, most expensive engineering schemes in history.

Inland, the only vegetation is largely confined to the oases, where the date palm reigns supreme, along with figs and oleander. Outside the oases, the acacia tree can sometimes be found providing the only shade in the middle of a wilderness. On the coast, the usual array of Mediterranean flora thrives, including large areas of olive and citrus cultivation.

A wonderful variety of bird life can be seen all over Libya, as it lies on the migratory route of many species. In the desert regions, the camel is the most common animal that visitors will come across, but there are still a few herds of gazelle in remote areas, and the nocturnal fennec (a small, big-eared fox) can be seen from time to time. Lizards, snakes (some of which are poisonous) and scorpions are also quite common.

Libya's climate is influenced by the massive expanse of desert to the south and by the Mediterranean Sea to the north. The coastal regions enjoy moderate temperatures, averaging 30°C (86°F) in summer and 8°C (46°F) in winter in Tripoli. Some 380mm (15in) of rain falls mainly in winter. Semi-arid conditions predominate in the central plains, while the southern deserts are subject to frequent periods of drought. A hot, dry, sand-laden wind called the ghibli occasionally blows into the usually humid coastal towns in spring and fall.


History

The Romans invaded Tripolitania (the region around Tripoli) in 106 BC, and by 64 BC, Julius Caesar's legions had completed the occupation. As a Roman province, Libya was prosperous, reaching a golden age in the 2nd century AD. The three principal Roman cities of Sabratha, Oea and Leptis Magna provided the empire with grain, oil and a supply of slaves and exotic goods from sub-Saharan Africa.

The decline of the Roman Empire saw the classical cities fall into ruin, a process hastened by the Vandals' destructive sweep though northern Africa in the 5th century AD. When the Byzantines took over in the 6th century, efforts were made to strengthen the old cities, but it was only a last gasp before they collapsed into disuse. Only Oea, which survives today as Tripoli, the nation's capital, remains a living city.

The Arab invasion of the 7th century brought Islam to the country, where it remains firmly entrenched to this day. Arab rule was culturally fruitful, and many examples of early Islamic architecture remain, especially in the oases of the south. The Arabs ruled Libya until the Turks conquered the country in the mid-16th century, administrating it through a succession of locally appointed rulers who levied a toll on every Christian fleet using the Mediterranean.

Following the Napoleonic wars, European powers began to colonise northern Africa, and the Turks hastened to strengthen their control of Libya. Their last North African possession, Libya was taken from the Turks by Italy in that country's last-minute bid for colonies in Africa. The ensuing colonial period proved devastating for native Libyans, as the large-scale 'Italianisation' of the country saw half of the indigenous population either exiled or exterminated between 1911 and the end of WWII. The crowning insult came with being a theatre of war in which were laid huge minefields, some of which remain.

In the postwar years, Italy was forced to give up Libya, and the country became independent under King Idris, an aging Senussi leader from Cyrenaica, the region around Benghazi. The king's support was spotty outside Cyrenaica, and tensions in the country mounted, fired by growing political discontent and a mood of Pan-Arabism that was sweeping the Arab world. On 1 September 1969, a small group of army officers led by 27-year-old Captain Muammar Qaddafi deposed the old king in a coup. Soon after, British and American troops were ordered to leave the bases they had occupied since WWII, and the 25,000 descendants of the Italian colonists were also forced to pack up and leave promptly.

Qaddafi's regime was committed to a more equitable distribution of Libya's enormous oil income, and billions of dollars were spent on roads, schools, housing, hospitals and agriculture. During the 1970s, Qaddafi penned the Green Book, which he claims is a radical alternative to capitalism and communism. Launching his revolution, he declared Libya to be a Jamahiriya (loosely translated as a 'state of the masses') and set about dismantling the state apparatus and replacing it with People's Committees. In practice, however, Libya's government was and remains a strict military dictatorship.

Almost wholly foreign-owned and controlled at the time of King Idris' overthrow, Libya's oil deposits have been taken over by a government determined to gain control over the country's main natural resource. Oil money funded the US$27 billion Great Man-Made River project, which pumps water from ancient acquifers deep under the desert to the coastal areas, a project intended to make Libya self-sufficient in food production.

Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, Libya adopted a high international profile based on Pan-Arabism, its virulent condemnation of 'western imperialism,' its support of liberation movements around the world and military adventurism in neighbouring African nations. What angered Western countries most was Qaddafi's support of real and so-called liberation movements, and particularly his alleged support of international terrorist organisations. These activities served to isolate Libya further from the international community. The most violent reaction to Libya's politics came from the USA, culminating in the air strike of April 1986 that killed dozens of people, including Qaddafi's adopted baby daughter.

Libya's present isolation follows the 1988 bombing of a Pan-Am airliner over Lockerbie, Scotland, which killed 259 people on board and 11 on the ground. Libya was accused of planting the bomb, and two Libyans were named as suspects. The US and Britain demanded the suspects be turned over for trial, Libya refused, and the resulting standoff caused the US to force the UN Security Council to impose sanctions on Libya. To this day, no aircraft can fly in, out or over Libya, and the trade of military equipment and parts with the country is forbidden. In March 1998, the International Court of Justice in the Hague, Netherlands, ruled that it had jurisdiction in the case and rejected British and US arguments over the right to decide where the two Libyans should be tried. In December 1998, the Libyan congress endorsed a plan to send the men for trial in the Netherlands, where they would be tried under Scottish law. The question of where the men would serve prison time if convicted of the bombing remained at issue until February 1999, when Qaddafi agreed to house them in a special UN-monitored jail in Scotland.

Qaddafi's control of Libya remains absolute, despite occasional outbreaks of civil disobedience and several rumoured military coup attempts.


Economic Profile

GDP: US$38 billion
GDP per head: US$6700
Annual growth: .5%
Inflation: 30%
Major industries: petroleum, food processing, textiles, handicrafts, cement
Major trading partners: Italy, Germany, Spain, France, Turkey, Greece, Egypt, Tunisia, UK


Culture

Libya has a population of over five million, around half of whom are under the age of 15. Most Libyans are Arabs (and nearly all think of themselves as such), although ethnically there is quite a mixture of races, including Turks, Berbers, and sub-Saharan Africans. In the south, especially around Ghat, there are large Tuareg communities, most of whom now live in towns and settlements rather than pursuing a life of desert nomadism. Away from the more cosmopolitan coastal cities, tribalism remains strong, especially affecting family relationships, matrimony and social structures.

Modern Libyans adhere to the traditions of Muslim society, which revolve around family life. Most visitors' overall impressions of Libya are of modest material comforts but with none of the flashy wealth of some oil-rich nations. As a result, there is none of the general hassle toward tourists that you find in other North African countries, such as locals begging for baksheesh or hustling you to buy something. In fact, an offer of payment for a small (or even large) kindness would probably cause offence to a Libyan.

Arabic is the official language of Libya, though English is often spoken by businesspeople in the main centres and some older Libyans speak Italian. Some Berber groups still speak their own language, and Tuaregs in the south speak Tifinagh as well as Arabic. However, all road, shop and other public signs are in Arabic, so it's extremely useful if not requisite to know at least a few words. In religion, Libyans are Sunni Muslims almost across the board; they are, in general, conservative without being fundamentalist in their outlook.

There has recently been something of a revival of the arts in Libya, especially in the field of painting, and private galleries are springing up to provide a showcase for new talent. Conversely, for many years there have been no public theatres and only a few cinemas showing foreign films. The tradition of folk culture is still alive and well, with troupes performing music and dance at frequent festivals, both in Libya and abroad. The lion's share of Libyan TV is devoted to showcasing various styles of traditional Libyan music. Traditional Tuareg music and dance are popular in Ghadhames and the south.


Events

The Islamic (or Hjira) calendar is a full 11 days shorter than the Gregorian (western) calendar, so public holidays and festivals fall 11 days earlier each year. In April for the next few years, Ras as-Sana is the Islamic celebration of the new year. Also known as Eid al-Adha or the Great Feast, Tabaski commemorates the moment when Abraham was about to sacrifice his son in obedience to God's command, only to have God jump in at the last minute and substitute a ram instead. Eid al-Moulid celebrates the prophet Mohammed's birthday, while Ramadan is celebrated during the ninth month of the Islamic calendar (presently in December), commemorating the month when the Quran was revealed to Mohammed. Out of deference, Muslims take neither food nor water until after sunset each day. At the end of Ramadan, called Eid al-Fitr, the fasting breaks amid much celebration.

The main secular holiday in Libya is Revolution Day, which is marked with a week of public parades, rallies and events. Folk troupes, horsemen, musicians and various military groups are bussed into Tripoli for the occasion, and Qaddafi usually gives a pep talk in Green Square. Slightly lower in key is the date-harvest festival held in various parts of the country during October.

Public Holidays
March or April - Ras as-Sana, Tabaski
2 March - Declaration of the Jamahiriya
June or July - Eid al-Moulid
11 June - Evacuation of Foreign Military Bases
1 September - Revolution Day
26 October - Day of Mourning
December or January - Eid al-Fitr


Facts for the Traveller

Visas: Everyone except visitors from most Arab countries and Malta must have a visa to visit Libya. Nationals of Israel and South Africa are not admitted, nor are those with an entry visa to either country in their passport. Before applying for a visa, you must have your passport translated into Arabic.
Health risks: Small risk of malaria, cholera and hepatitis
Time: GMT/UTC plus 2 hours
Electricity: 240V
Weights & measures: Metric (see the conversion table)



Money & Costs

Currency: Libyan dinar (LD)

Relative costs:

  • Budget meal: US$1-2
  • Moderate restaurant meal: US$2-5
  • Top-end restaurant meal: US$ and upwards

  • Budget room: US$5-10
  • Moderate hotel: US$10-
  • Top-end hotel: US$ and upwards
Travellers to Libya will find their expenses varying widely according to the rate of exchange they finagle: the difference between the official and the unofficial rate is a staggering six times. If you stay at business-class hotels and change your money at the bank, your trip's going to cost you as much as a visit to Geneva or Tokyo. Maybe more. But if you can manage to change a little money on the sidelines, you'll be living large and doing so at a bargain.

Libya does not accept credit cards, and travellers' cheques are all but impossible to cash. Carrying cash is the only realistic option, and the favoured currency is the US dollar. Pounds sterling, deutschmarks and Italian lire are also acceptable. The main banks and larger hotels provide money-changing facilities; their rates are virtually identical.

When changing money on the black market in Libya, as anywhere, it's wise to be discreet. Some shopkeepers in the souq might be prepared to change your money, but don't ask if there are other people within earshot. You should also know that the better hotels, Libyan Arab Airlines and the ferry companies insist on foreigners paying in hard currency at the punitive official exchange rate or producing a bank receipt proving the money was changed legally.

Contrary to practises in the rest of North Africa, haggling over prices in the souqs is a no no. Tipping is not expected, though a service charge is sometimes added to hotel and restaurant bills.


When to Go

The best time to visit Libya is between November and March, when daytime temperatures are relatively mellow ... for a desert country. Conversely, if you drop by between April and September, don't be surprised to find the mercury pushing 38°C (100°F) on a regular basis. The coastal atmosphere is generally humid (hovering around 55% in the afternoons year round), while inland the deserts are often dry as dust. The best periods in which to avoid travel to Libya are late spring (May through June) and early fall (October), when the country's subject to the massive ghibli sandstorms from the south, which tend to last several days and interrupt all outdoor activities.


Attractions


Tripoli

Known as Tarabulus in Arabic and Oea in antiquity, Tripoli is the de facto capital of Libya, although there have been attempts in recent years to move some government departments to other areas of the country. Once known as the 'White Bride of the Mediterranean' (whatever that's supposed to mean), Tripoli has lost much of its pristine allure, though its many historic mosques and lively medina retain a good deal of character. The Turkish and Italian colonial periods also left a distinctive mark on the city's architecture, and best of all, Qaddafi's revolution has ensured the absence of billboards and other hallmarks of a modern commercial city.

Easily the most dominant feature of Tripoli is the Red Castle, Assai al-Hamra, which sits on the northern promontory overlooking what used to be the sea - a motorway and 500m (1640ft) of reclaimed land now separate the two. The massive structure comprises a labyrinth of courtyards, alleyways and houses built up over the centuries with a total area of around 13,000 sq metres (140,000 sq ft). Inside, look for evidence of all the city's (and thus the citadel's) ruling parties: the Turks, Karamanlis, Spaniards, Knights of Malta, Italians and several others all left a piece of themselves in its arts and architecture.

The entrance to the Jamahiriya Museum is on Green Square, next to the castle. These excellent facilities were built in consultation with UNESCO at enormous cost, and the exhibits within are laid out chronologically, starting with prehistory and ending up with the revolution. The most impressive parts are the mosaics, statues and artefacts from classical antiquity, which make up one of the finest collections in the Mediterranean.

The medina is the heart of Tripoli, providing the most visually exciting and certainly the best shopping in the city, if not the whole country. As only a handful of tourists visit Libya, the souq has an authentic air and the goods on display cater to local taste. Even better news is that you'll find absolutely none of the hassle usually associated with a trip to a souq. When you've had your fill of the market scene, the old walled city also contains virtually all of Tripoli's historic mosques, khans (inns), hammams and houses. And to give the crowds an even wider berth, try visiting the city's peaceful zoo or any of the nearby beaches.


Benghazi

Situated on the eastern edge of the Gulf of Sirt, Benghazi ranks as the second largest city in Libya and a major commercial centre. The city today displays little of its ancient heritage, as it was pretty much pummelled into ruin during WWII and rebuilt only after oil money began pouring in following the revolution. What it lacks in historical charms, however, it makes up for in location. Benghazi makes a great base for exploring the lush Green Mountain area and the numerous Roman ruins along the coast, and there are good bathing beaches within a quick drive.

With a good pair of walking shoes, you can cover central Benghazi easily on foot. The covered souqs are open daily, but they really come alive on Friday morning, when the whole city seems to convene for a shopping spree. The main covered market, the Souq al-Jreed on Sharia Omar al-Mukhtar, sells all manner of clothes and household goods, while not far off the street becomes a pedestrian precinct or small shops and cafes.

Though it's in the middle of a roundabout, the tomb of Omar al-Mukhtar, the freedom fighter of the resistance, attracts a fair number of loungers who sit around the monument watching the world go by. For an altogether different sort of lounging and gawking, others prefer any of the several beach clubs and tourist villages within easy reach of the city. One of the most popular is the Garian Tourist Village, some 6km (4mi) south of the centre.


Ghadhames

The oasis town of Ghadhames lies 650km (mi) south-west of Tripoli, close to the borders of Algeria and Tunisia. If your time in Libya is limited and you plan to see one traditional desert place, this is the one to visit. Famous for its desert architecture, Ghadhames earned the sobriquet 'Pearl of the Desert' back in the 1950s, when it was a popular getaway for Tripoli folk. Since then a new town has sprung up around the old one, and the latter's dark, covered walkways and whitewashed mud-brick walls are a lot less boisterous than they once were.

The old city is a labyrinth, lit only by occasional overhead skylights and open squares - a style unique to this part of the Sahara. It's also small enough to be entirely covered on foot, which is just what you should do when you arrive (bring a torch). Near the western entrance to the old town, the House Museum is an old merchant's house with its original furnishings and decorations kept intact. The square of the Mulberry is the old slave market - many locals are descendants of former slaves - near the D'jmaa al-Kabir mosque, whose minaret can be climbed an excellent view over the town.

A 15km (10mi) drive outside of Ghadhames brings you to some decidedly non-spectacular Roman ruins on the 'Haunted Hill,' Ras al-Ghoul (yes, the English word 'ghoul' comes directly from the Arabic). Ruins aside, the hill's worth visiting for its vistas over the desert, and while you're there, there's a lake nearby that's popular for swimming and picnics.


Leptis Magna

If you only see one archaeological site in Libya, this is the one to choose. Regarded as the best Roman site in the Mediterranean, Leptis Magna's spectacular architecture and a massive scale will impress even the most ruin-weary traveller. The city was originally a Phoenician port, settled during the first millennium BC. Slaves, gold, ivory and precious metals brought it great wealth, which was supplemented by the rich agricultural land surrounding it. Roman legions ousted the Carthaginians following the third Punic War, after which the city flourished until the Vandals did their namesake thing in 455. Roman rule briefly returned to Leptis in 533, and intensive repairs were carried out on the city, but local tribes revolted and eventually the area reverted to pastoral nomadism dominated by the Berbers. The Arab invasions of 644 swept away the last traces of Roman life from the region, and in the 11th century Leptis Magna was finally abandoned to the encroaching sand dunes.

It wasn't until the 20th century that excavation began in earnest, and, much to archaeologists' delight, the sands had preserved the ruins remarkably well. There's an excellent, large museum next to the main entrance to the site, but the real treasures wait out in the site itself. The first thing you'll encounter is the Severan Arch, which was erected in honor of Emperor Septimus Severus' visit to his hometown in 203 AD. Not far off are the marble and granite panelled Hadrianic Baths, the largest outside Rome. Keep exploring and you'll come across the partially covered nymphaeum, a shrine dedicated to the worship of nymphs; a pair of massive forums, similar in design and grandiosity to the imperial forum in Rome; the extraordinarily detailed basilica and theatre; and, if you continue west along the seashore about 700m (ft), the circus and amphitheatre, where chariot races and similar spectacles were held for the locals' amusement.


Off the Beaten Track


Jebel Akhdar

North of Benghazi is the Jebel Akhdar, an extremely beautiful stretch of mountains that are sure to resonate doubletime with anyone fresh out of the desert. Also known as the Green Mountains, this part of Libya is indeed green and a great deal wetter than other parts of the country. Geographically, it resembles Crete, and much of the high jebel (mountain) is given over to agriculture. It was a key area for food production during the Italian colonisation, and the simple, low-built farmhouses from the 1930s still stand today amid fruit and cereal farms. The whole area has a charming, rustic feel to it.

The Greek city of Tocra, 70km (mi) north-east of Benghazi along the coastal road, was founded around 510 BC. The new village is pretty much devoid of interest to visitors, but the old village square and surrounding area are well worth a peek. Farther east along the coast is Tolmeita, which is even more rustic than Tocra and sports a couple of nice beaches to boot. Inland a bit and farther east, Al-Bayda is right at the heart of the jebel, close to the ancient sites of Cyrene, Apollonia, Gassr Libya and Slonta. It's a pleasant place, with a number of visitor facilities and lovely Italian-era buildings, and there are also a few great beaches within a short drive.

The tiny village of Slonta, inland from al-Bayda, is not too interesting in itself, but it is the site of the only significant pre-Islamic Libyan artefact yet discovered. The ruins were obviously a place of worship, but no one knows much about its particular cult. Closer to the coast, the ancient city of Apollonia is the most rewarding of Libya's Greek cities after Cyrene, with a small museum and a number of well-preserved relics and ruins. At the far end of the Jebel Akhdar area, the town of Derna is situated around the outlet of an extremely attractive wadi, the steep sides of which are filled with lush vegetation. The town itself is worth a stroll, especially the old quarter and the covered souq. And if the beaches aren't enough of a watery wonder for you, an hour's hike from town brings you to a waterfall (a rare sight indeed in Libya) that flows almost all year round.


Cyrene

Second in importance only to Leptis Magna, Cyrene is a must see. It ranks as the best preserved of the Greek cities of Cyrenaica, with its temples, tombs, agora, gymnasium and theatre originally modelled on those at Delphi. Apart from the spectacular Greek ruins, its location high on a bluff overlooking the sea is stunning.

The city covers a huge area and is still only partly excavated. It's not often you find world-heritage sites still in this rather romantic condition: mosaics can still be discovered underfoot, and priceless statues often lie covered with creepers. Enough of the city has been resurrected to give the visitor an impression of how it originally looked but without the over-restored look that detracts from so many classical archaeological sites. Cyrene still has very few visitors and correspondingly few facilities. Pack a meal, and you could easily spend a day or several wandering and exploring.


Activities

Increasingly popular among tourists, desert safaris are the big guns in most tour providers' arsenals. To avoid their E-ticket crowds, you can either bring your own 4WD vehicle or hire one locally with a driver and a guide. Note that there are restrictions in some areas about travelling without a guide, and travel in the Acacus region requires a permit, which is easily obtained for a small fee.

Libya's coastline is dappled with excellent beaches, some of which are all-natural and unadorned, while others have been thoroughly resortified. The ones closest to central Tripoli are usually somewhat messy, though the water's clean enough and they are convenient. For a more natural setting, try hitting the sands around Benghazi in Cyrenaica. A nascent diving industry has begun making bubbles in Libya, with the submerged ruins near Leptis Magna and Apollonia as their most exciting offerings, and there are a few water sports available at the beaches just south of Tripoli.


Getting There & Away

At present there are no international air services to or from Libya, due to a UN air embargo. In the past, Tripoli had good connections with most of the Arab capitals and with Europe and the Far East. There are sea connections with Malta every other day, but the fare is a whopping US$170 each way.

Although the land border with Chad is open and there are reliable connections by truck, only Libyan and Chadian nationals are allowed to make the crossing. The same story applies at the Sudanese border. If you're heading to or arriving from Egypt or Tunisia, buses and shared taxis are your only options. The fares are low, but the driving can be erratic.


Getting Around

Libya's main airport, Tripoli International, is closed; the few (extremely inexpensive) domestic flights that remain use the military airbase east of Tripoli. There's also been no railroad in operation since 1965, and all the systems of yesteryear have since been dismantled.

The road system in Libya is excellent, smooth and fast. Air-con buses and shared taxis are reliable and affordable, while private taxis tend to cost an arm and a leg, especially in Tripoli and Benghazi. If you're driving your own car, petrol is very affordable. There are car hire agencies in Tripoli and Benghazi, although 4WDs are not available and the rates are quite high.


Recommended Reading

  • For a look at the man behind Libya's muscle, Escape to Hell and Other Stories by Muammar Qaddafi is the leader's most recent contribution to the annals of literary history. For a better understanding of his political agenda, peek into the three-part Green Book.
  • For connoisseurs of all things political, Qaddafi and the Libyan Revolution by David Blundy and Andrew Lycett will make for riveting reading. And if you're still going strong after that, Mansour O El-Kikhia's interest and scholarship cut through the rumour and news rhetoric in Libya's Qaddafi: The Politics of Contradiction.
  • Still hungry? Islam and the Third Universal Theory: The Religious Thought of Mu'Ammar Al-Qadhdhafi by Mahmoud Ayoub is hard to get your hands on, but worth it.
  • If you're hankering for something a little less 'now,' Piracy and Diplomacy in Seventeenth-Century North Africa: The Journal of Thomas Baker, English Consul in Tripoli, 1677-1685 should fit the bill.
  • One of the best books on Libyan travel is Knud Holmboe's 1931 classic, Desert Encounter, which details the author's adventures in Italian Libya.
  • Author Phillip Ward has produced several books for visitors to Libya. Among them are Tripoli: Portrait of A City, Touring Libya; the Southern Provinces and Touring Libya; the Eastern Provinces.
  • Libyan-born and American-raised, Khaled Mattawa writes poetry that speaks across borders, both cultural and political. His work is collected in Ismailia Eclipse.
  • Biologists and binocular-toters will want to dig up a copy of Libyan Mammals by Ernst Hufnagi.

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