DESTINATION EQUATORIAL GUINEA

Facts at a Glance

Full country name: Republic of Equatorial Guinea
Area: 28,050 sq km (10,940 sq mi)
Population: 500,000
Capital city: Malabo (pop 15,000)
People: On Bioko, Fang, Bubi with some Fernandinos; in Rio Muni, primarily Fang
Language: Spanish (official), French (official), pidgin English, Fang, Bubi, Ibo
Religion: Roman Catholic (85%), traditional African (15%)
Government: Republic
President: Teodoro Obiang Nguema Mbasogo

Environment

The country is made up of two provinces - Bioko Island lies 40km (25mi) off the coast of Cameroon in the Bight of Biafra, and Rio Muni, the much larger area, lies on the mainland coast between Cameroon to the north and Gabon to the south and east.

Equatorial Guinea is thick with vegetation. Being an extinct volcano, the soil on Bioko is especially rich, encouraging the rapid growth of trees and vines. Farmers spend much of their time keeping the ever-encroaching vines from overwhelming their cocoa plantations. Rio Muni, having been largely bypassed by the 20th century, is equally thick with vegetation and boasts an abundance of wildlife, including elephants, lions and gazelle.

Equatorial Guinea is a rainy, tropical country. On Bioko Island the rainy season is from July through to January, while on the mainland, rainfall is lighter and peaks from April to May and from October to December.

History

It's pretty rare to open up the newspaper and find a story about Equatorial Guinea, but that's not to say that the West African nation has been an uneventful paradise. From the time the Bantu moved into the area that is now mainland Equatorial Guinea in the 12th and 13th centuries, there were tribal wars in the area. Having previously been inhabited by Pygmies and the Ndowe people, the area was quickly dominated by the warlike Fang. Their hostility kept European colonials on their toes, preventing a wholesale occupation of the area. Nevertheless, the Fang were forced from the coast during the centuries of slave trading by the British, Dutch and French, reoccupying after the abolition of slavery.

The island of Bioko was settled by the Bubi people about the 13th century and they were joined by the Portugese in the late 1500s. Portugal held many of the islands in the Gulf of Guinea including São Tomé and Príncipe. Portugal traded away Bioko to the Spanish in 1778 and, by the early 19th century, the island had become an important centre for the European slave trade. Profitable cocoa plantations made Bioko Spain's most important possession in equatorial Africa. Throughout this time, most of the mainland region remaimed unexplored, with the Spanish venturing into the interior in the 1920s. Only after the Spanish civil war ended in 1939 did the colonial power begin developing the region in earnest. Partial autonomy was granted in 1963 - the same year the island and mainland colonies were joined under the name Equatorial Guinea.

Independence came in 1968. With self-determination came the realisation that Spain had left the country virtually bankrupt. A state of emergency was declared. Francisco Macias Nguema was elected president and in 1970 followed most central and west African leaders by declaring opposition groups illegal. By 1972 he had declared himself leader for life, and was well underway on a campaign of terror and arbitrary brutality on a par with Bokassa in the Central African Republic and Idi Amin in Uganda. Many thousands of people were tortured and executed in jails or beaten to death in labour camps. Priests were arrested and schools and churches were closed. Being a journalist became a capital offense. The leader even made fishing illegal and destroyed every boat he could find. For several years, Equatorial Guinea was effectively closed off from the world. By the time Macias' "rule for life" ended with a coup and his execution in 1979, two-thirds of the population had either fled Equatorial Guinea or been killed.

Equatorial Guinea's road back to multi-party democracy has been a torturous one. Old habits die hard, and although elections have been held, it is widely believed that vote-rigging has been rampant. The US State Department declared that the first presidential election in 1993 was a "parody of democracy". The arrest and imprisonment of an opposition leader sent a clear message to all about the country's democratisation, although he was released following pressure from Western governments.

Although it's unknown whether the effects will be positive or negative, the discovery of oil in Equatorial Guinean waters is sure to change the political and social landscape of the country. Mobil has two oil rigs operating, although several neighbouring countries claim territorial rights to the area. If the government spends oil revenue wisely, Equatorial Guinea has a chance of peacefully shifting to full democracy. If international or internal disputes increase, however, oil could prove to be just another curse the people have to deal with.

Economic Profile

Culture

The Fang people on the mainland have held strong to their traditions, which means you're in for a treat in black magic is your thing. Sorcerers are still amongst the most important community members. As with nearly all cultures, song and dance are important rituals, and there are several Fang dances that you might be fortunate enough to stumble across. Among the most fascinating celebrations is the abira, a ceremony that helps cleanse the community of evil. You might also see the passionate balélé dance and, along the coast, the extremely suggestive ibanga. On Bioko, a version of the balélé is also performed on holidays and at Christmas time.

Typically, dances in Equatorial Guinea are performed to music provided by an orchestra of three or four men. The instruments played are drums, wooden xylophones, sanzas (a small thumb piano made from bamboo), bow harps and even zithers. If you happen upon any of these celebrations, count yourself fortunate. Most Equatorial Guineans live in grinding poverty and, on the whole, have little to be festive about.

Events

The most interesting events in Equatorial Guinea coincide with Christian or traditional religious ceremonies. Many of these are family or village based, but some public celebrations may occur. Independence is celebrated on 12 October and this is the most likely time to see public events in Malabo and Bata.

Facts for the Traveller

Visas:All visitors to Equatorial Guinea require a visa, which is usually valid for 30 days. In Africa, the easiest places to get a visa are Cameroon and Gabon, though it's not very difficult anywhere with same-day service the norm.
Health risks: You will require immunisations (and, often, proof of this) against yellow fever, cholera, tetanus, typhoid, meningitis, polio and hepatitis A. You'll also need to guard against giardia, dysentry, fungal infections, rabies, tuberculosis, bilharzia, diptheria, malaria, typhus and a whole textbook of other water, insect and air-borne diseases.
Time: GMT/UTC +1 hour
Electricity: 240V
Weights & measures: Metric (see conversion table)

Money & Costs

Currency: Central African Franc (CFA)
Relative costs:

• Budget meal: US$1-3
• Moderate restaurant meal: US$3-6
• Top-end restaurant meal: US$6-10
• Budget room: US$4-10
• Moderate hotel: US$10-20
• Top-end hotel: US$20-40

While Equatorial Guinea is not the cheapest place in Africa, it's also not the hottest or sandiest, which makes it quite attractive. And although those on a tight budget can stay put in the capital of Malabo for under US$15 a day, you can live a lot more comfortably in a hotel, and eat better food, for only US$10 more. If it's a top-end lifestyle you're seeking, look elsewhere. It's hard enough locating an expensive restaurant, let alone finding a top hotel to stay at. Given that the two provinces of Equatorial Guinea are split by a couple of hundred kms (over 125mi) of water, hire cars are a pointless option. They're expensive on Bioko and non-existant in Rio Muni. Travel by foot, taxi, truck and minibus are the best options.

There is only one bank in Malabo and one in Bata with currency exchange facilities. Exchange from French francs is easy, however other currencies occasionally provide difficulties. Always keep your purchase receipt - unlike most other African countries, it's routinely requested in Equatorial Guinea.

Tipping is a difficult issue throughout Africa. Basically, if you look like a hitch-hiker, take buses or shared taxis and eat at African restaurants, you won't be expected to tip. If you're clean-cut, you'll look rich; 10% in restaurants, hotels and taxis is considered appropriate. The same rule applies whether you're a westerner or a wealthy African.

When to Go

Rain is the main factor to consider when travelling in Equatorial Guinea. Dirt roads become extremely muddy, and you could find yourself stranded for some time. To avoid the wet season, the best time to travel in Equatorial Guinea is between November and April.

Attractions

Malabo

Small, beautiful and Spanish in influence, Malabo is gleaming from a recent facelift after looking a bit scruffy a decade ago. Although it's not the biggest city in Equatorial Guinea, it's certainly the most vibrant and tourist-friendly. Outdoor bars, thriving nightclubs and colourful markets are the highlights of a town in the heart of the real African tropics. With ocean waves to the north and the imposing mountain to the south, Malabo is seemingly the perfect recipe for tourism, and the government is attempting to attract visitors by maintaining the city in a clean and relatively safe manner. The petroleum boom has created strong contrasts in wealth and modernization around the city. You will see pleasant neighborhoods adjacent to rather less pleasing shantytowns.

During the day, there's not much to do in Malabo except rest, wander and chat with the locals in one of the bars. Come nightfall and the town picks up the pace with many of the best restraurants and clubs not opening until the sun goes down. Beer is expensive, but the local brews of palm wine and malamba, made from sugarcane, are dirt cheap and available everywhere.

Luba

Bata

Capital of the mainland region of Rio Muni and larger than Malabo, Bata is a clean, charming town with wide streets. Lacking the spectacular volcanic views of Malabo, Bata is nonetheless quite lively, with busy markets and lots of restaurants, bars and hotels. The city has a dilapidated colonial charm and is used primarily as a base for day trips to nearby small villages or small islands close to the mainland. There are few man-made attractions anywhere at all on the mainland, however those wanting a secluded African beach experience are in luck; to the north and south of Bata are some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Bata is over 200km (125mi) across the Bight of Biafra from Malabo. Regular flights and an irregular ferry will get you between the two towns.

Off the Beaten Track

Mbini

Although only 50km (32mi) south of Bata, the trip to Mbini involves a mini-bus and a ferry, and can take some time. The ferry, which runs hourly, carries only four vehicles, so expect a wait. Mbini is a pleasant town at the mouth of the Rio Benito. A popular spot for swimming, it's also an ideal place to meet locals in a low key environment.

Islas Elobey

Two islands - Grande and Chico - near the southern border with Gabon make fascinating destinations. The few people who live on Elobey Grande are very friendly and if you're lucky you might be invited to stay for the night. Elobey Chico, on the other hand, is something of a ghost town. The island houses no people, though the deserted ruins of the former capital of the mainland are at once odd and interesting. Over 100km (62mi) south of Bata, the trip will require a couple of minibuses, a ferry and finally a cayuco (canoe) from Cogo, Acalayong or Cocobeach.

Ebebiyin

Ebebiyin is the second-largest town in Rio Muni and, being in the far north-east corner of the country, is often the first point of contact for travellers entering Equatorial Guinea from Cameroon. The town is only about 1.5km (less than a mile) from end to end, and so is easy to cover on foot. If your favourite hobby is drinking, you'll be ecstatic about Ebebiyin; there's a bar on virtually every corner. Twenty kilometres (12.5mi) west of the town is the Museum of Biyabiyan, which features traditional Fang sculptures and other works of art. Minibuses run from Bata to Ebebiyin daily, with the 230km (140mi) trip taking about 10 hours. The town is only two km (1.24mi) from Kye Ossi in Cameroon.

Activities

Along the mainland coast there are some of the world's best beaches. Swimming is especially good here, though, surprisingly, you won't find many good spots to get your feet wet on Bioko. On the island, though, you will find great, secluded hiking tracks, particularly in the southern half. If you're feeling adventurous, try mountain climbing the spectacular Piko Malabo volcano on Bioko. A government permit is required (it's a military area) and few travellers set foot in the region.

Getting There & Away

One flight a week from Madrid, Spain, takes you to the capital, Malabo. This is the best route if travelling direct from the US to Equatorial Guinea. Regular flights to Douala in Cameroon also run, and these link up with direct flights to various European cities including London, Paris and Rome. There are also flights from several west and central African capitals.

Most arrive at Rio Muni by minibus from either Cameroon or Gabon. If you're then heading to Bioko, you can either fly or catch the ferry. Arranging to put your own car on the ferry may be the thing that finally breaks you on your African jaunt - you'd be well advised to leave it in Bata and avoid the frustration. Bush taxis are also an option, although few travellers are attracted to the uncertainty of this means of travel.

Getting Around

The country's national airline schedules six flights a week from Malabo to Bata. On Bioko there are good bush taxi connections around the island, while in Rio Muni about three minibuses a day run each way along the coast road between Bata and Acalayong and six a day head inland to Ebebiyin. The country has only one completely sealed road, but you'll be unlikely to use it - it links the president's tiny home town with another tiny town in the remote east of the country.

Recommended Reading

• Mary Kingsley's 1897 classic Travels in West Africa has been recently reprinted and is worth picking up. It details her trips through Gabon in the 1890s, including sailing up the Ogooué River, slogging through the rainforest and gathering specimens for a natural history museum.
• Caroline Alexander's One Dry Season retraces Kingsley's steps nearly a century later.
• African Silences, by Peter Matthiessen, focuses on his journeys through western Africa.

Lonely Planet Guides

• Central Africa
• Africa on a shoestring

On-line Info

• Take the subWWWay to Equatorial Guinea