Facts at a Glance
Full country name:Republic of Benin
Area: 110,620 sq km (43,140 sq mi)
Population: 6 million
Capital city: Porto Novo (pop. 200,000)
People: Fon and Adja (40%), Yoruba (12%), Bariba (9%), Betamarib%eacute;, Fulani (6%), and 37 smaller ethnic groups
Language: French (official), Fon, Yoruba and almost fifty other tribal languages
Religion: Animism (Voodoo) (70%), Muslim (15%), Christian (20%)
Government: Democratic republic
President: Mathieu Kérékou
Benin is located in West Africa, covering a land area Of 110,620 sq km (44,000 sq mi). The country is a long stretch of land perpendicular to the Coast of the Gulf of Guinea. It is bordered on the north by Burkina Faso and the Republic of Niger, on the east by the Federal Republic of Nigeria and on the west by the Republic of Togo. The coastline is 124km (77mi) long across the south, with the land stretching north-south for 672km (420mi) from the Niger River to the Bight of Benin. It is about two-thirds the size of Portugal and a fraction smaller than Pennsylvania.
The country is divided into five natural regions: a coastal area; a plateau zone called "la terre de barre"; another plateau with wooded savannah; a hilly region in the northwest (the Atakora), which contains the water reservoir for Benin and Niger; and the fertile Niger plains in the northeast. In the south, cultivated land including immense palmgroves and coconut plantations lines the coast.
The history of Benin is indistinguishable from that of the entire area of West Africa until the early part of the 17th century. Up until this time, the area had been divided into numerous principalities. It just takes one bad apple to spoil it for the rest of them, however, and in Benin's case a chief had a row with his brother and moved to Abomey before conquering the neighbouring kingdom of Dan, which became known as Dahomey (Fon for 'in Dan's belly'). He then made a pledge - repeated by each successive king - to leave more land than he inherited. Not surprisingly, this policy led to war after war, and a particularly bad relationship with the powerful Yoruba of Nigeria.
Of course, wherever there was a good fight, Europeans were never far behind, and the Portuguese and others began establishing trade posts at Porto Novo and Ouidah. The Dahomey traded with the Europeans; the hot item was prisoners of war sold into slavery in return for guns. For well over a century, an average of 10,000 slaves a year were shipped to the Americas, primarily Brazil and the Caribbean and particularly Haiti, exporting their knowledge and practice of voodoo. Benin had become perhaps the most beaten track by Europeans in Africa, and southern Benin had the dubious honour of being dubbed 'the Slave Coast'.
In the 1800s the French sashayed in and gained control of the coast, making the kingdom of Dahomey part of French West Africa. Named the 'Latin Quarter of West Africa', Dahomey became famous over the next century for its educated elite, employed as regional advisors. This education process backfired on the French; the locals became vocal and began agitating for equality. They even published a newspaper critical of the French.
After World War II the people of Dahomey modernised rapidly, forming trade unions and political parties. In 1960, and without much fuss, Dahomey attained independence from France. Due to their education, many Dahomeyans were running administrations throughout French Africa. Following independence, these officials were deported en masse, forming an unstable presence at home. In 1963 this boiled over into a successful military coup. For the next nine years Benin became the Bolivia of Africa. There were five coups, nine changes in government and five different constitutions. With typical wry humour, the locals refer to this time as le folklore. Despite all of this upheaval, the famous civil nature of the Fon people triumphed. No leader was ever killed, and when the army deposed General Soglo in 1967 they politely knocked on his door and told him, 'You're through'.
The pleasantries didn't last long. In 1972 Lt Col Mathieu Kérékou seized control, renamed the radio station 'the voice of the revolution' and fuelled anti-white sentiment. Marxism became the official ideology of the newly named Benin in 1974. There were assassinations, riots and strikes. A group of exiles, Europeans and a French mercenary landed at Contonou airport in 1977 in an attempted coup. They fought for a couple of hours then flew out again. The revolution led to centralised industry and agriculture, a warning to the churches and a militant spirit in the army, but was always more rhetorical than real. Private industry continued to flourish. By the mid-80s the economy was a shambles and the age of coups began again, with six attempts in one year alone. With the eyes of the world trained on Eastern Europe in the late 80s, the outside world barely noticed the strikes, riots, lootings and crackdowns on the streets of Porto Novo.
In 1990 Kérékou saw that his socialist plan was far from glorious, renounced Marxism and called a conference to rewrite the constitution. Despite being blamed for the failures and abuses of the past, Kérékou was the recipient of solid support from the delegates, who engineered another coup, installing him as leader. Free elections were held the following year. Kérékou was defeated, but amazingly was elected President again in 1996. An economic crisis in the mid-90s has been quickly overcome, due partly to increased growth, stability and a general sense of optimism.
GDP: US$8.2 billion
GDP per head: US$1440
Annual growth: 5.5%
Inflation: 4%
Major industries: Textiles, cotton, cigarettes, beverages, construction materials, petroleum, palm products
Major trading partners: Brazil, Portugal, France
The cultural history of Benin is rich, and for over a century the people's art has brought international attention to the legendary kingdom of Dahomy. Art has served both a functional and spiritual purpose, though before the 19th century, the most accomplished artists worked solely for the ruling kings of Abomey. The history of these times was told in the brightly coloured appliqué tapestries. You will have no problems finding modern examples of this art form. Beninese bronzework is revered by collectors worldwide, though is no longer being produced in the quantities it once was. Bronze casting is said to have been halted after an Ife leader whose predecessor was immortalised in a bronze statue became so enraged he issued a death decree to people working in bronze. Several hundred years later, the ban still seems to be in place. The palace of Abomey also features bas-reliefs which have been designated by UNESCO as objects of common heritage for humanity.
There is a huge variety of religious and cultural dances that you might encounter in Benin. Some dance is choreographed in groups, but more often it's individual, intricate and amazingly expressive. Dances occur during special festivals such as La Gani, a celebration of culture and identity, but also during spontaneous celebrations. Be on the lookout for dancers as their life-affirming ceremonies are likely to be the most enrapturing thing you will see in the country.
The aspect of Beninese culture that has garnered most interest worldwide is the practice of voodoo, an animistic religion observed by about 70% of the population. The belief is a polytheistic one that sees an interconnectedness of human and spirit worlds. Voodoo is, in a nutshell, the worship of the spirit in all things.
A darker side of Benin culture is the widespread practice of female genital mutilation - commonly described as 'female circumcision'. Though roundly condemned by international health experts, the practice remains quite widespread, particularly in the north of Benin where some studies suggest that as many as 50% of women have undergone the ritual. Government efforts to eradicate FGM have failed, probably due to the deep-seated, 6000 year old nature of the practice, the social difficulties faced by many women who have not been altered and the healthy profits made by the old women who commonly perform the operation.
Events
The big celebrations in Benin occur on Martyr's Day (16 January), which commemorates a mercenary attack on Cotonou, Independence Day (1 August), National Day (30 November) and Harvest Day (31 December).
Visas:Visas: 15 and 30-day visas are available. Many west and central African nationals don't require a visa. For applications or extensions, be sure to have a fist full of photos.
Health risks: Yellow fever vaccination certificates are required for entry. Cholera and malaria are also serious risks, and vaccinations are recommended. All water should be boiled or chemically treated, with boiling also recommended for milk, which is not pasteurised. Avoid all other dairy products and ensure meat and fish are well cooked. Medical care is limited.
Time: GMT/UTC plus one hour
Electricity: 220 V
Weights & measures:Metric (see conversion table)
Money & Costs
Currency:Franc - West African CFA (XOF)
Relative costs:
- Budget meal: US$0.50-1
- Mid-range restaurant: US$1-3
- Top-end restaurant: US$4-10
- Budget lodging: US$5-10
- Mid-range lodging: US$11-16
- Top-end lodging: US$17-110
In 1994 the Beninese currency was devalued by 50% and the country subsequently suffered under inflation of 55% (up from 3%). It is a testament to the economic leaders that the following year inflation was slashed to 14%, and has continued to fall ever since. Benin is a cheap place to holiday; not uncommon in Africa, but a bonus given the attractive and comfortable town of Cotonou. You could scrape by on US$15 a day if you stayed in humble lodgings in Cotonou and looked after your centimes. If you stay in the most expensive luxury hotel, eat top-end all day and hire a Peugeot 504, you'd be looking at $230 a day, plus petrol.
Changing currency is simple in Benin, especially around Cotonou and Porto Novo. The Bank of Africa usually has the best rates and charges no commission. Ecobank-Bénin is open on Saturdays, and the Financial Bank allows cash withdrawls on Visa cards. If you're stuck at night, you can try the Sheraton near the airport, or risk the black market around the Jonquet district. Currency changes are easier from French Francs or Pounds Sterling
With increased tourism, tipping has become a part of the tourist industry in Benin. It is common now to tip 10% at hotels and restaurants.
When to Go
Weather is probably the main consideration for travellers deciding the best time to go, and if you don't mind getting a little wet, it doesn't much matter. Nearly all of Lesotho's rainfall is during the summer, between October and April. When the sun comes out, though, it's beautiful and warm.
Porto Novo
Officially the capital, the government long ago moved itself and most of its business 32km (20mi) west to Cotonou. Nevertheless, this town of some 180,000 people remains a beautiful and historical place. Its proximity to the Nigerian border gives the appearance that more is going on than actually is, though there are still some hot spots, such as the Grand Marché d'Adjara where you can buy drums, cloth, baskets and the best pottery in Benin. The Musée Éthnographique de Porto Novo has a great collection of Yoruba artefacts. You can also visit the ornate Brazilian-style church, now a mosque.
Cotonou
Benin's capital in everything but name, Cotonou thrived after the abolition of slavery, growing as Beninese, Togolese and Nigerian expatriates returned to the region. There is a crowd of bright, upbeat bars and nightclubs along the Jonquet strip. The clubs feature US, West African and even Cameroonian beats. Cotonou offers a huge selection of regional and international restaurants, and - perhaps the highlight - the huge, picturesque Grand Marché de Dantokpa. Here you can buy a wide variety of items, ranging from blank cassettes, food and radios to monkey's testicles and voodoo love fetishes.
Just north of Cotonou is Ganvié, a town of 12,000 inhabitants who live in bamboo huts on stilts several kilometres out on Lake Nokoué. In the 18th century, the Tofinu people built the village as protection against the aggression of the Fon and Dahomey kingdoms; religious custom forbade warriors from venturing into water. Now, houses, restaurants, shops and even a hotel are built 2m (6ft) above the water. Very early or at dusk are the best times to visit Ganvié. The locals object to up-close photography, so be sensitive to their wishes.
Ouidah
The voodoo centre of Benin, and the next most popular destination to Cotonou, Ouidah was the only sea port in Benin until 1908. A major cultural and historical destination, Ouidah features the Museé d'Histoire d'Ouidah (also called the Voodoo Museum), various other museums and temples, a park known as the Sacred Forest and the sacred, symbolic and historical Route des Esclave (the Route of the Slaves). This 4km (2.5mi) road from the town to the fabulous beach features fetishes, statues and small villages along the route the slaves took to the ships. Ouidah is 40km (25mi) from Cotonou, on the main road to Togo. Taxis leave from Autogare Jonquet in Cotonou and cost about US$0.55.
Abomey
Another rival for the most interesting spot outside of Cotonou is Abomey, the former capital of the great Dahomey kingdom. The main attraction is the restored Royal Palace of the Fon and the museum inside. Most of the buildings, originally commenced in 1645, were destroyed by fire in 1892, but the remaining structure is beautiful and spectacular. The museum features voodoo, skulls, Portuguese artefacts and traditional housing. Photos are strictly forbidden. Abomey is best reached by taxi from Cotonou. The trip takes two and a half hours.
Bokoumbé
On the north-western border with Togo is the town of Bokoumbé. On the way from nearby Natitingou, you will pass the tallest mountain in Benin, and once there you will experience all the wonders of a west African trading village. The Bokoumbé market is regarded as perhaps the best such market in the country. It is as much a social event for people from the region as it is a trading point for market produce, and beer and fun are in abundance. You can buy rare, authentic carvings and smoking pipes as well as fabulous fresh produce. Every four years or so, the town is gripped by the Whipping Festival, where young men run around naked with whips beating up other young men from neighbouring villages. It is, of course, a rite of passage. Bokoumbé is 43km (27mi) south-west of Natitingou and about 600km (370mi) from Cotonou. The trip will take about nine hours.
Malanville
Although it's on the main highway from Cotonou to Niamey in Niger, few tourists ever make it to Malanville. In the far north, on the Niger River border, it is a centre for village trade in the region. There are some beautiful landscapes on the way from Parakou, and once there, the market is again the feature, with many diverse peoples converging on the area. Food is plentiful but accommodation confined to one dirty campement or hostel. Malanville is 11 hours by taxi from Cotonou.
Benin is a perfect destination for those seeking a facinating glimpse into a complex culture. As far as organised tourist programs are concerned, though, it's pretty light-on. For a low-key safari experience, head to the far-north to Pendjari Park and W Park. Pendjari is more developed for tourists than W, and is only open between mid-December and mid-May. The park contains elephants, hippos, buffalo and lions, but you'll be lucky if you see more than a few forlorn-looking antelope, a couple of wart hogs and maybe a monkey or three.
The coastline is spectacular, and especially well suited to swimming. Four km (2.5mi) east from the centre of Cotonou is the best urban beach. It's safe, clean and regularly crowded. Head west for 40km (25mi) and you'll find the absolutely perfect beach at Ouidah (which just happens to be the voodoo capital of Benin). Just a little better than perfect, and a mere 40km (25mi) further along the road, is Grand Popo. The beaches are quite safe, the sand is a spectacular white and the water clear and clean.
Getting There & Away
Direct flights to Benin are available from France, Belgium and many African countries. You can also fly to Lomé in Togo and catch a three hour taxi to Cotonou. This is especially good if you've had trouble getting a Benin visa from your point of departure: they're a breeze to obtain in Togo. Air Afrique flies from the USA to Abidjan (Côte d'Ivoire), then connects to Cotonou.
Taxi travel to Cotonou is simple but time-consuming (about 14 hours) from Niger, and will cost you about US$15. The border is open between 7am and 7.30pm. The trip is only about three hours from Nigeria and Togo. The main roads from most surrounding countries are tarred and in fair condition, so driving yourself is also an option.
Getting Around
With no large buses, minibuses and Peugeot 504 bush taxis are the principal means of public transport. Taxi prices are reasonable, with the 144km (90mi) trip to Abomey costing about US$4. Minibuses are slower, but cost about a quarter of the taxi rate. There are four main gare routiéres (taxi ranks), though many travellers recommend hailing them on their way out of town. From the ranks, they rarely leave for an out-of-town destination until they're full.
Trains run from Cotonou to Parakou via Bohicon (near Abomey). The entire trip takes about nine hours, and trains go each way every morning. Every second day there's an evening service with a sleeper coach. Second class daytime seats cost US$45, while a sleeper overnight will set you back about US$115.
Hire cars are available from Cotonou airport or the Sheraton. There is a daily charge which is added to a distance rate. Petrol is extra. Travelling 200km (125mi) per day will cost you about US$110.
Recommended Reading
- To gain some understanding of the causes of Africa's ongoing problems, read African Development Reconsidered by Haskell Ward.
- For a bleak look at African politics but a positive slant on the people, try Africa: Dispatches from a Fragile Continent by Blaine Harden. He discusses the 'Big Man' complex of Africa's leaders.
- The Africans is an award-winning book by Pulitzer Prize nominee David Lamb. Low on depth but high on entertainment, Lamb travels to 46 countries, interviewing guerilla leaders and presidents.
- Lloyd Timberlake's Africa in Crisis is a study of the political and environmental factors of drought and famine. Special attention is paid to the involvement of western aid organisations.
- Travels in West Africa by free-spirit Mary Kingsley was first published in 1897. It chronicles the spinster's two trips through the Gabon, facing every calamity with fortitude and good humour.
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