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LING
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1994-02-08
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Linguine con Aglio e Balsamico
This recipe is from Lynne Rossetto Kasper "The Splendid Table" (NY:
William Morrow & Co. Inc., 1992) ISBN 0-688-08963-1 $30. This book
focuses on the cuisine of Emilia-Romagna, home of Parma, Modena,
Bologna and Ravenna.
This dish is a garlic lover's paradise, taking Italy's popular pasta
with garlic and oil into a new realm. Balsamic vinegar spooned over
the finished pasta is the all-important refinement. The dish comes
together in almost no time.
[Serves 6 to 8 as a first course, 4 to 6 as a main dish]
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or unsalted butter
8 large cloves garlic, cut into 1/4-inch dice
6 quarts salted water
1 pound imported dried linguine, or 1 recipe Egg Pasta cut into tagliarini
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or unsalted butter
Salt and fleshly ground black
pepper to taste
1 to 1 1/2 cups (4 to 6 ounces) fleshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
8 to 10 teaspoons artisan-made or high-quality commercial balsamic vinegar
(if using commercial, blend in 1 teaspoon brown sugar)
Working Ahead: The garlic can be braised up to 8 hours ahead. Set
it aside, covered, at room temperature. The dish is best finished
and eaten right away.
Braising the Garlic: In a large heavy skillet, heat the 3
tablespoons oil or butter over medium-low heat. Add the garlic, and
lower the heat to the lowest possible setting. Cook, covered, 5
minutes. Uncover and continue cooking over the lowest possible heat
8 minutes, or until the garlic is barely colored to pale blond and
very tender. Stir it frequently with a wooden spatula. Do not let
the garlic turn medium to dark brown, as it will be bitter.
Cooking the Pasta: Warm a serving bowl and shallow soup dishes in a
low oven. As the garlic braises, bring the salted water to a fierce
boil, and drop in the pasta. Stir occasionally. Cook only a few
moments for fresh pasta, and up to 10 minutes for dried pasta.
Taste for doneness, making sure the pasta is tender but still firm
to the bite. Spoon about 3 tablespoons of the cooking water into
the cooked garlic just before draining the pasta. Drain in a
colander.
Finishing and Serving: Remove the garlic from the heat and add the
hot drained pasta. Add the additional 3 tablespoons of oil or
butter (the fresh taste of uncooked oil or butter brightens the
dish), and toss with two wooden spatulas. Season with salt and
pepper. Now toss with all of the cheese. Turn into the heated
serving bowl. As you serve the pasta, sprinkle each plateful with a
teaspoon or so of the vinegar.
Wine: A simple but fruity white, like Trebbiano del Lazio or
Frascati.
Variation with Fresh Basil: In summer add 1 cup coarsely chopped
fresh basil leaves to the braised garlic a few seconds before
tossing with the pasta. Let the basil warm and its aromas blossom,
then add the pasta to the pan.