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Viewed from Centre of Eternity 615.552.5747 -+- The Merry Pranksters from Menlo Park -+- 10.1990.01.01.01 Turn On, Tune In, Drop Out Marijuana Grower's Handbook - Part 1 of 33 by pH Imbalance "Marijuana : The Plant" from Marijuana Grower's Handbook [Indoor/Greenhouse Edition] Ed Rosenthal -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- It is recommended that you buy the book that these files are taken from. Many charts and some chapters have been omitted. Besides, Ed might need the money. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Cannabis probably evolved in the Himalayan foothills, but its origins are clouded by the plant's early symbiotic relationship with humans. It has been grown for three products - the seeds, which are used as a grainlike food and animal feed and for oil; its fiber, which is used for cloth and rope; and its resin, which is used medically and recreationally since it contains the group of psychoactive substances collectively known as Tetra-hydrocannibinol, usually referred to as THC. Plants grown for seed or fiber are usually referred to as hemp and contain small amounts of THC. Plants grown for THC and for the resin are referred to as marijuana. Use of cannabis and its products spread quickly throughout the world. Marijuana is now cultivated in climates ranging from the Arctic to the equator. Cannabis has been evolving for hundreds of thousands of generations on its own and through informal breeding programs by farmers. A diverse group of varieties has evolved or been developed as a result of breeders' attempts to create a plant that is efficient at producing the desired product, which flourishes under particular environmental conditions. Cannabis easily escapes from cultivation and goes "wild." For instance, in the American midwest, stands of hemp "weed" remain from the 1940's plantings. These plants adapt on a population level to the particular environmental conditions that the plants face; the stand's genetic pool, and thus the plants' characteristics, evolve over a number of generations. Varieties differ in growth characteristics such as height, width, branching traits, leaf size, leaf shape, flowering time, yield, potency, taste, type of hig, and aroma. For the most part, potency is a factor of genetics. Some plants have the genetic potential of producing high grade marijuana and others do not. The goal of the cultivator is to allow the high THC plants to reach their full potential. Marijuana is a fast growing annual plant, although some varieties in some warm areas overwinter. It does best in a well-drained medium, high in fertility. It requires long periods of unobstructed bright light daily. Marijuana is usually dioecious; plants are either male or female, although some varieties are monoecious - they have male and female flowers on the same plant. Marijuana's annual cycle begins with germination in the early spring. The plant grows vigorously for several months. The plant begins to flower in the late summer or early fall and sets seed by late fall. The seeds drop as the plant dies as a result of changes in the weather. Indoors, the grower has complete control of the environment. The cultivator determines when the plants are to be started, when they will flower, whether they are to produce seed and even if they are to bear a second harvest. Marijuana Grower's Handbook - Part 2 of 33 by pH Imbalance "Choosing A Variety" from Marijuana Grower's Handbook [Indoor/Greenhouse Edition] Ed Rosenthal -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Gardeners can grow a garden with only one or two varieties or a potpourri. Each has its advantages. Commercial growers usually prefer homogenous gardens because the plants tatse the same and mature at the same time. These growers usually choose fast maturing plants so that there is a quick turnaround. Commercial growers often use clones or cuttings from one plant so that the garden is genetically idential; the clones have exactly the same growth habits and potency. Homegrowers are usually more concerned with quality than with fast maturity. Most often, they grow mixed groups of plants so they have a selection of potency, quality of the high, and taste. Heterogeneous gardens take longer to mature and have a lower yield than homogenous gardens. They take more care, too, because the plants grow at different rates, have different shapes and require varying amounts of space. The plants require individual care. Marijuana grown in the United States is usually one of two main types: inidica or sativa. Indica plants originated in the Hindu-Kush valleys in central Asia, which is located between the 25-35 latitudes. The weather there is changeable. One year there may be drought, the next it might be cloudy, wet, rainy or sunny. For the population to survive, the plant group needs to have individuals which survive and thrive under different conditions. Thus, in any season, no matter what the weather, some plants will do well and some will do poorly. Indica was probably developed by hash users for resin content, not for flower smoking. The resin was removed from the plant. An indication of indica's development is the seeds, which remain enclosed and stick to the resin. Since they are very hrd to disconnect from the plant, they require human help. Wild plants readily drop seeds once they mature. Plants from the same line from equatorial areas are usually fairly uniform. These include Colombians and central Africans. Plants from higher latitudes of the same line sometimes have very different characteristics. These include Southern Africans, Northern Mexicans, and indicas. The plants look different from each other and have different maturities and potency. The ratio of THC (the ingredient which is psychoactive) to CBD (its precursor, which often leaves the smoker feeling disoriented, sleepy, drugged or confused) also varies. High latitude sativas have the same general characteristics: they tend to mature early, have compact short branches and wide, short leaves which are dark green, sometimes tinged purple. Indica buds are usually tight, heavy, wide and thick rather than long. They smell "stinky", "skunky", or "pungent" and their smoke is thick - a small toke can induce coughing. The best indicas have a relaxing "social high" which allow one to sense and feel the environment but do not lead to thinking about or analyzing the experience. Cannabis sativa plants are found throughout the world. Potent varieties such as Colombian, Panamanian, Mexican, Nigerian, Congolese, Indian and Thai are found in equatorial zones. These plants require a long time to mature and ordinarily grow in areas where they have a long season. They are usually very potent, containing large quanities of THC and virtually no CBD. They have long, medium-thick buds when they are grown in full equatorial sun, but under artificial light or even under the temperate sun, the buds tend to run (not fill out completely). The buds usually smell sweet or tangy and the smoke is smooth, sometimes deceptively so. The THC to CBD ratio of sativa plants gets lower as the plants are found further from the equator. Jamaican and Central Mexican varieties are found at the 15-20th latitudes. At the 30th latitude, varieties such as Southern African and Northern Mexican are variable and may contain equal amounts of THC and CBD, giving the smoker and buzzy, confusing high. These plants are used mostly for hybridizing. Plants found above the 30th latitude usually have low levels of THC, with high levels of CBD and are considered hemp. If indica and sativa varieties are considered opposite ends of a spectrum, most plants fall in between the spectrum. Because of marijuana and hemp's long symbiotic relationship with humans, seeds are constantly procured or traded so that virtually all populations have been mixed with foreign plants at one time or another. Even in traditional marijuana-growing countries, the marijuana is often the result of several cross lines. Jamaican ganja, for example, is probably the result of crosses between hemp, which the English cultivated for rope, and Indian ganja, which arrived with the Indian immigrants who came to the country. The term for marijuana in Jamaic in ganja, the same as in India. The traditional Jamaican term for the best weed is Kali, named for the Indian killer goddess. Marijuana Grower's Handbook - Part 3 of 33 by pH Imbalance "Growth and Flowering" from Marijuana Grower's Handbook [Indoor/Greenhouse Edition] Ed Rosenthal -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- The cannabis plant regulates its growth and flowering stages by measuring the changes in the number of hours of uniterrupted darkness to determine when to flower. The plant produces a hormone (phytochrome) begining at germination. When this chemical builds up to a critical level, the plant changes its mode from vegetative growth to flowering. This chemical is destroyed in the presence of even a few moments of light. During the late spring and early summer there are many more hours of light than darkness and the hormone does not build up to a critical level. However, as the days grow shorter and there are longer periods of uniterrupted darkness, the hormone builds up to a critical level. Flowering occurs at different times with different varieties as a result of the adaptation of the varieties to the environment. Varieties from the 30th latitude grow in an area with a temperate climate and fairly early fall. These plants usually trigger in July or August and are ready to harvest in September or October. Southern African varieties often flower with as little as 8 or 9 hours of darkness/15 to 16 hours of light. Other 30th latitude varieties including most indicas flower when the darkness cycle lasts a minimum of 9 to 10 hours. Jamaican and some Southeast Asian varieties will trigger at 11 hours of darkness and ripen during September or October. Equatorial varieties trigger at 12 hours or more of darkness. This means that they will not start flowering before late September or early October and will not mature until late November or early December. Of course, indoors the plants' growth stage can be regulated with the flick of a switch. Nevertheless, the plants respond to the artificial light cycle in the same way that they do to the natural seasonal cycles. The potency of the plant is related to its maturity rather than chronological age. Genetically identical 3 month and 6 month-old plants which have mature flowers have the same potency. Starting from seed, a six month old plant flowers slightly faster and fills out more than a 3 month old plant. Marijuana Grower's Handbook - Part 4 of 33 by pH Imbalance "Choosing a Space" from Marijuana Grower's Handbook [Indoor/Greenhouse Edition] Ed Rosenthal -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Almost any area can be converted to a growing space. Attics, basements, spare rooms, alcoves and even shelves can be used. Metal shacks, garages and greenhouses are ideal areas. All spaces must be located in an area inaccessible to visitors and invisible from the street. The ideal area is at least 6 feet high, with a minimum of 50 square feet, an area about 7 feet by 7 feet. A single 1,000 watt metal halide or sodium vapor lamp, the most efficient means of illuminating a garden, covers an area this size. Gardeners who have smaller spaces, at least one foot wide and several feet long, can use fluorescent tubes, 400 watt metal halides, or sodium vapor lamps. Gardeners who do not have a space even this large to spare can use smaller areas (See part 17 - "Novel Gardens"). Usually, large gardens are more efficient than small ones. The space does not require windows or outside ventilation, but it is easier to set up a space if it has one or the other. Larger growing areas need adequate ventilation so that heat, oxygen, and moisture levels can be controlled. Greenhouses usually have vents and fans built in. Provisions for ventilation must be made for lamp-lit enclosed areas. Heat and moisture buildup can be extraordinary. During the winter in most areas, the heat is easily dissipated; however, the heat buildup is harder to deal with in hot weather. Adequate ventilation or air coolers are the answer. Marijuana Grower's Handbook - Part 5 of 33 by pH Imbalance "Preparing the Space" from Marijuana Grower's Handbook [Indoor/Greenhouse Edition] Ed Rosenthal -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- The space is the future home and environment of the plants. It should be cleaned of any residue or debris which might house insects, parasites or diseases. If it has been contaminated with plant pests it can be sprayed or wiped down with a 5% bleach solution which kills most organisms. The room must be well-venitalted when this operation is going on. The room will be subject to high humidity so any materials such as clothing which might be damaged by moisture are removed. Since the plants will be watered, and water may be spilled, the floors and any other areas that may be water damaged should be covered with linoleum or plastic. High grade 6 or 8 mil polyethylene drop cloths or vinyl tarps protect a floor well. The plastic should be sealed with tape so that no water seeps to the floor. The amount of light delivered to the plant rises dramatically when the space is enclosed by reflective material. Some good reflective materials are flat white paint, aluminum foil (the dull side so that the light is diffused), white cardboard, plywood painted white, white polyethylene, silvered mylar, gift wrap, white cloth, or silvered plastic such as Astrolon. Mterials can be taped or tacked onto the walls, or hung as curtains. All areas of the space should be covered with reflective material. The walls, ceiling and floors are all capable of reflecting light and should be covered with reflective material such as aluminum foil. It is easiest to run the material vertically rather than horizontally. Experienced growers find it convenient to use the wide, heavy-duty aluminum foil or insulating foil (sold in wide rolls) in areas which will not be disturbed and plastic or cloth curtains where the material will be moved. Windows can be covered with opaque material if a bright light emanating from the window would draw suspicion. If the window does not draw suspicion and allows bright light into the room, it should be covered with a translucent material such as rice paper, lace curtains, or aquarium crystal paint. Garages, metal buildings, or attics can be converted to lighthouses by replacing the roof with fiberglass greenhouse material such as Filon. These translucent panels permit almost all the light to pass through but diffuse it so that there is no visible image passing out while there is an even distribution of light coming in. A space with a translucent roof needs no artificial lighting in the summer and only supplemental lighting during the other seasons. Overhead light entering from askylight or large window is very helpful. Light is utilized best if it is diffused. Concrete and other cold floors should be covered with insulating material such as foam carpet lining, styrofoam sheeting, wood planks or wooden palettes so that the plant containers and the roots are kept from getting cold. Marijuana Grower's Handbook - Part 6 of 33 by pH Imbalance "Plant Size and Spacing" from Marijauna Grower's Handbook [Indoor/Greenhouse Edition] Ed Rosenthal -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Marijuana varieties differ not only in their growth rate, but also in their potential size. The grower also plays a role in determining the size of the plants because the plants can be induced to flower at any age or size just by regulating the number of hours of uninterrupted darkness that the plants receive. Growers have different ideas about how much space each plant needs. The closer the plants are spaced, the less room the individual plant has to grow. Some growers use only a few plants in a space, and they grow the plants in large containers. Other growers prefer to fill the space with smaller plants. Either method works, but a garden with smaller plants which fills the space mroe completely probably yields more in less time. The total vegetative growth in a room containing many small sized plants is greater than a room containing only a few plants. Since each plant is smaller, it needs less time to grow to its desired size. Remember that the gardener is interested in a crop of beautiful buds, not beautiful plants. The amount of space a plant requires depends on the height the plants are to grow. A plant growing 10 feet high is going to be wider than a 4 foot plant. The width of the plant also depends on cultivation practices. Plants which are pruned grow wider than unpruned plants. The different growth characteristics of the plants also affect the space required by each plant. In 1- or 2-light gardens, where the plants are to grow no higher than 6 feet, plants are given between 1 and 9 square feet of space. In a high greenhouse lit by natural light, where the plants grow 10-12 feet high, the plants may be given as much as 80 to 100 square feet. Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 7 of 33 by pH Imbalance "Planting Mixes" from Marijuana Grower's Handbook [Indoor/Greenhouse Edition] Ed Rosenthal One of the first books written on indoor growing suggested that the entire floor of a grow room be filled with soil. This method is effective but unfeasible for most cultivators. Still, the growers have a wide choice of growing mediums and techniques; they may choose between growing in soil or using a hydroponic method. Most growers prefer to cultivate their plants in containers filled with soil, commercial mixes, or their own recipe of soil, fertilizers, and soil conditioners. These mixes vary quite a bit in their content, nutrient values, texture, pH, and water-holding capacity. Potting soil is composed of topsoil, which is a natural outdoor composite high in nutrients. It is the top layer of soil, containing large amounts of organic material such as humus and compost as well as minerals and clays. Topsoil is usually lightened up so that it does not pack. This is done by using sand, vermiculite, perlite, peat moss and/or gravel. Potting soil tends to be very heavy, smell earthy and have a rich dark color. It can supply most of the nutrients that a plant needs for the first couple of months. Commercial potting mixes are composites manufactured from ingredients such as bark or wood fiber, composts, or soil conditioners such as vermiculite, perlite, and peat moss. They are designed to support growth of houseplants by holding adequate amounts of water and nutrients and releasing them slowly. Potting mixes tend to be low in nutrients and often require fertilization from the outset. Many of them may be considered hydroponic mixes because the nutrients are supplied by the gardener in a water solution on a regular basis. Texture of the potting mix is the most important consideration for containerized plants. The mixture should drain well and allow air to enter empty spaces so that the roots can breathe oxygen. Mixes which are too fine may become soggy or stick together, preventing the roots from obtaining the required oxygen. A soggy condition also promotes the growth of anaerobic bacteria which release acids that eventually harm the roots. A moist potting mix with good texture should form a clump if it is squeezed in a fist; then with a slight poke the clod should break up. If the clod stays together, soil conditioners are required to loosen it up. Vermiculite, perlite or pea-sized styrofoam chips will serve the purpose. Some growers prefer to make their own mixes. These can be made from soil, soil conditioners, and fertilizers. Plants grown in soil do not grow as quickly as those in hydroponic mixes. However, many growers prefer soil for aesthetic reasons. Good potting mixes can be made from topsoil fairly easy. Usually it is easier to buy topsoil than to use unpasteurized topsoil which contains weed seeds, insects and disease organisms. Outdoors, these organisms are kept in check, for the most part, by the forces of nature. Bringing them indoors, however, is like bringing them into an incubator, where many of their natural enemies are not around to take care of them. Soil can be sterilized using a 5% bleach solution poured through the medium or by being steamed for 20 minutes. Probably the easiest way to sterilize soil is to use a microwave. It is heated until it is steaming, about 5 minutes for a gallon or more. Potting soils and potting mixes vary tremendously in composition, pH and fertility. Most mixes contain only small amounts of soil. If a package is marked "potting soil", it is usually made mostly from topsoil. If the soil clumps up it should be loosened using sand, perlite or styrofoam. One part amendment is used to 2-3 parts soil. Additives listen in Chart 7-2 may also be added. Here is a partial list of soil conditioners: Foam Foam rubber can be used in place of styrofoam. Although it holds water trapped between its open cells it also holds air. About 1.5 parts of foam rubber for every part of styrofoam is used. Pea-size pieces or smaller should be used. Gravel Gravel is often used as a sole medium in hydroponic systems because it is easy to clean, never wears out, does not "lock up" nutrients, and is inexpensive. It is also a good mix ingredient because it creates large spaces for airpockets and gives the mix weight. Some gravel contains limestone (see "Sand"). This material should not be used. Lava Lava is a preferred medium on its own or as a part of a mix. It is porous and holds water both on its surface and in the irregular spaces along its irregular shape. Lava is an ideal medium by itself but is sometimes considered a little too dry. To give it moremoisture-holding ability, about one part of wet vermiculite ismixed with 3 to 6 parts lava. The vermiculite will break up and coat the lava, creating a mdeium with excellent water-holding abilities and plenty of air spaces. If the mix is watered from the top, the vermiculite will wash down eventually, but if it is watered from the bottom it will remain. Perlite Perlite is an expanded (puffed) volcanic glass. It is lightweight with many peaks and valleys on its surface, where it traps particles of water. However, it does not absorb water into its structure. It does not break down easily and is hard to the touch. Perlite comes in several grades with the coarser grade being better for larger containers. perlite is very dusty when dry. To eliminate dust, the material is watered to saturation with a watering can or hose before it is removed from the bag. Use of masks and respirators is important. Rockwool Rockwool is made from stone which has been heated then extruded into think strands which are something like glass wool. It absorbs water like a wick. It usually comes in blocks or rolls. It can be used in all systems but is usually used in conjunction with drop emitters. Growers report phenomenal growth rates using rockwool. It is also very convenient to use. The blocks are placed in position or it is rolled out. Then seeds or transplants are placed on the material. Sand Sand is a heavy material which is often added to a mixture to increase its weight so that the plant is held more firmly. It promotes drainage and keeps the mix from caking. Sand comes in several grades too, but all of them seem to work well. The best sand to use is composed of quartz. Sand is often composed of limestone; the limestone/sand raised pH, causing micronutrients to precipitate, making them unavailable to the plants. It is best not to use it. Limestone-containing sand can be "cured" by soaking in a solution of water and superphosphate fertilizer which binds with the surface of the lime molecule in the sand, making the molecule temporarily inert. One pound of superphosphate is used to 5 gallons of water. It dissolves best in hot water. The sand should sit in this for 6-12 hours and then be rinsed. Superphosphate can be purchased at most nurseries. Horticultural sand is composed of inert materials and needs no curing. Sand must be made free of salt if it came from a salt-water area. Sphagnum Moss Sphagnum or peat moss is gathered from bogs in the midwest. It absorbs many times its own weight in water and acts as a buffer for nutrients. Buffers absorb the nutrients and hold large amounts in their chemical structure. The moss releases them gradually as they are used by the plant. If too much nutrient is supplied, the moss will act on it and hold it, preventing toxic buildups in the water solution. Moss tends to be acidic so no more than 20% of the planting mix should be composed of it. Styrofoam Pellets Styrofoam is a hydrophobic material (it repels water) and is an excellent soil mix ingredient. It allows air spaces to form in the mix and keeps the materials from clumping, since it does not bond with other materials or with itself. One problem is that it is lighter than water and tends to migrate to the top of the mix. Styrofoam is easily used to adjust the water-holding capacity of a mix. Mixes which are soggy or which hold too much water can be "dried" with the addition of styrofoam. Styrofoam balls or chips no larger than a pea should be used in fine-textured mixtures. Larger styrofoam pieces can be used in coarse mixes. Vermiculite Vermiculite is porcessed puffed mica. It is very lightweight but holds large quantities of water in its structure. Vermiculite is available in several size pieces. The large size seems to permit more aeration. Vermiculite breaks down into smaller particles over a period of time. Vermiculite is sold in several grades based on the size of the particles. The fine grades are best suited to small containers. In large containers, fine particles tend to pack too tightly, not leaving enough space for air. Coarser grades should be used in larger containers. Vermiculite is dusty when dry, so it should be wet down before it is used. Mediums used in smaller containers should be able to absorb more water than mediums in larger containers. For instance, seedlings started in 1 to 2 inch containers can be planted in plain vermiculite or soil. Containers up to about one gallon can be filled with a vermiculite-perlite or soil-perlite mix. Containers larger than that need a mix modified so that it does not hold as much water and does not become soggy. The addition of sand, gravel, or styrofoam accomplishes this very easily. Here are lists of different mediums suitable for planting: Below is a list of the moist mixtures, suitable for the wick system, the reservoir system and drop emitters which are covered in part 9. Chart 7-1-A: Moist Planting Mixes 1) 4 parts topsoil, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite. Moist, contains medium-high amounts of nutrients. Best for wick and hand-watering. 2) 3 parts topsoil, 1 part peat moss, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam. Moist but airy. Medium nutrients. Best for wick and hand-watering. 3) 3 parts vermiculite, 3 parts perlite, 1 part sand, 2 parts pea-sized gravel. Moist and airy but has some weight. Good for all systems, drains well. 4) 5 parts vermiculite, 5 parts perlite. Standard mix, moist. Excellent for wick and drop emitters systems though it works well for all systems. 5) 3 parts vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam. Medium dry mix, excellent for all systems. 6) 2 parts vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam, 1 part peat moss. Moist mix. 7) 2 parts vermiculite, 2 parts perlite, 3 parts styrofoam, 1 part sphagnum moss, 1 part compost. Medium moisture, small amounts of slow releasing nutrients, good for all systems. 8) 2 parts topsoil, 2 parts compost, 1 part sand, 1 part perlite. Medium-moist, high in slow-release of organic nutrients, good for wick and drip systems, as well as hand watering. 9) 2 parts compost, 1 part perlite, 1 part sand, 1 part lava. Drier mix, high in slow-release of nutrients, drains well, good for all systems. 10) 1 part topsoil, 1 part compost, 2 parts sand, 1 part lava. Dry mix, high in nutrients, good for all systems. 11) 3 parts compost, 3 parts sand, 2 parts perlite, 1 part peat moss, 2 parts vermiculite. Moist, mid-range nutrients, good for wick systems. 12) 2 parts compost, 2 parts sand, 1 part styrofoam. Drier, high nutrients, good for all systems. 13) 5 parts lava, 1 part vermiculite. Drier, airy, good for all systems. Here are some drier mediums suitable for flood systems as well as drip emitters (hydroponic systems covered in part 9). Chart 7-1-B: Flood System/Drip Emitter Mixes 1) Lava 2) Pea sized gravel 3) Sand 4) Mixes of any or all of the above. Manure and other slow-releasing natural fertilizers are often added to the planting mix. With these additives, the grower needs to use ferilizers only supplementally. Some of the organic amendments are listed in the following chart. Organic amendments can be mixed but should not be used in amounts larger than those recommended because too much nutrient can cause toxicity. Some growers add time-release fertilizers to the mix. These are formulated to release nutrients over a specified period of time, usually 3, 4, 6 or 8 months. The actual rate of release is regulated in part by temperature, and since house temperatures are usually higher than outdoor soil temperatures, the fertilizers used indoors release over a shorter period of time than is noted on the label. Gardeners find that they must supplement the time-release fertilizer formulas with soluble fertilizers during the growing season. Growers can circumvent this problem by using time-release fertilizer suggested for a longer period of time than the plant cycle. For instance, a 9 month time-release fertilizer can be used in a 6 month garden. Remember that more fertilizer is releasing faster, so that a larger amount of nutrients will be available than was intended. These mixes are used sparingly. About one tablespoon of dolomite limestone should be added for each gallon of planting mix, or a half cup per cubic foot of mix. This supplies the calcium along with mangesium, both of which the plants require. If dolomite is unavailable, then hydrated lime or any agricultural lime can be used. Chart 7-2: Organic Amendments +-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+ | Amendment | N | P | K | 1 Part : X Parts Mix | +-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+ | Cow Manure | 1.5 | .85 | 1.75 | Excellent condition, breaks down | | | | | | over the growing season. 1:10 | +-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+ | Chicken Manure | 3 | 1.5 | .85 | Fast acting. 1:20 | +-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+ | Blood Meal | 15 | 1.3 | .7 | N quickly available. 1:100 | +-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+ | Dried Blood | 13 | 3 | 0 | Very soluble. 1:100 | +-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+ | Worm Castings | 3 | 1 | .5 | Releases N gradually. 1:15 | +-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+ | Guano | 2-8 | 2-5 | .5-3 | Varies alot, moderately soluble. | | | | | | For guano containing 2% nitrogen, | | | | | | 1:15. For 8% nitrogen, 1:40 | +-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+ | Cottonseed Meal | 6 | 2.5 | 1.5 | Releases N gradually. 1:30. | +-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+ | Greensand | 0 | 1.5 | 5 | High in micronutrients. Nutrients | | | | | | available over the season. 1:30 | +-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+ | Feathers | 15 | ? | ? | Breaks down slowly. 1:75 | +-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+ | Hair | 17 | ? | ? | Breaks down slowly. 1:75 | +-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+ N = Nitrogen * P = Phosphorous * K = Potassium Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 8 of 33 by pH Imbalance "Hydroponics vs. Soil Gardening" from Marijuana Grower's Handbook [Indoor/Greenhouse Edition] Ed Rosenthal Plants growing in the wild outdoors obtain their nutrients from the breakdown of complex organic chemicals into simpler water-soluble forms. The roots catch the chemicals using a combination of electrical charges and chemical manipulation. The ecosystem is generally self-supporting. For instance, in some tropical areas most of the nutrients are actually held by living plants. As soon as the vegetation dies, bacteria and other microlife feast and render the nutrients water-soluble. They are absorbed into the soil and are almost immediately taken up by higher living plants. Farmers remove some of the nutrients from the soil when they harvest their crops. In order to replace those nutrients they add fertilizers and other soil additives. [pH : perhaps shake would be good fertilizer for one's next crop] Gardeners growing plants in containers have a closed ecology system. Once the plants use the nutrients in the medium, their growth and health is curtailed until more nutrients become available to them. It is up to the grower to supply the nutrients required by the plants. The addition of organic matter such as compost or manure to the medium allows the plant to obtain nutrients for a while without the use of water-soluble fertilizers. However, once these nutrients are used up, growers usually add water-soluble nutrients when they water. Without realizing it, they are gardening hydroponically. Hydroponics is the art of growing plants, usually without soil, using water-soluble fertilizers as the main or sole source of nutrients. The plants are grown in a non-nutritive medium such as gravel or sand or in lightweight materials such as perlite, vermiculite or styrofoam. The advantages of a hydroponic system over conventional horticultural methods are numerous: dry dpots, root drowning and soggy conditions do not occur. Nutrient and pH problems are largely eliminated since the grower maintains tight control over their concentration; there is little chance of "lockup" which occurs when the nutrients are fixed in the soil and unavailable to the plant; plants can be grown more conveniently in small containers; and owing to the fact that there is no messing around with soil, the whole operation is easier, cleaner, and much less bothersome than when using conventional growing techniques.