- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my
recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust.
- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum
to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space
(such as an envelope). This brings us to our next ingredient...
- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope.
You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers
and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter
would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is
your bomb!!
- Now to light it... This is the tricky part and hard to explain.
just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The
fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another
one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long
cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the
outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch
explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn
the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at
least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human
flesh!).
SOLIDOX BOMBS
Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive
chemical can be bought over the counter: solidox.
Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can
be bought at K-mart, and various hardware supply shops for around
$7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing
agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active
ingredient in solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many
military applications in the WWII era.
Since solidox is literally what the name says: solid oxygen, you
must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and
readily available energy source is common household sugar, or
sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source,
but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.
Making the mixture:
[1] open the can of solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by
one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar
and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
[2] the ratio for mixing the sugar with the solidox is 1:1, so
weigh the solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount
of sugar.
[3] mix equivalent amounts of solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1
ratio.
It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful
substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word
of caution: be extremely careful in the entire process. Avoid
friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew
blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with solidox.
You have been warned!
PAINT BOMBS
To make a paint bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a
refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple,
or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place
the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place
the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time
this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to
the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed
off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the
door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place.
THERMITE II:
A BETTER WAY TO MAKE THERMITE
Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it. The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is rust!). Here is a good way to make large quantities in a short time:
- get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the connector off, seperate the wires, and strip them both.
- now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium
chloride (which is salt!) added to it. This makes the water
conductive.
- now insert both wires into the mixture (i am assuming you
plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes.
One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the
positive(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final
product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is rust
acid. You have no use for this here (although it is useful!).
- anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now
put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight
and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until
you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous
with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of
making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right?
- now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a
cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside
overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have
seen it in many different colors).
- crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot
until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure aluminum
fillings which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum
tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3
grams.
- congrats! You have just made thermite! Now, to light it...
- thermite requires a lot of heat (more than a blow torch!) to
ignite. However, a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find..
Call around, or you could steal some from school) will do the trick. It
takes the heat from the burning magnesium to light the thermite.
- now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile
onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with
the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood,
the block, the axle, and the pavement. Be careful! The ideal
mixtures can vaporize carbon steel! Another idea is to use
thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. Have fun!! -jolly roger-
EXPLOSIONS: EFFECTIVE DEMOLITION
We will be using this brand of pipe bomb in most all of our elimination
exploits:
One 1 foot length of pipe (threaded)
two caps for the ends of the pipe.
One baby-food jar
about a baby-food jar full worth of vinegar
baking soda
some gravel
To construct the pipe bomb:
1. Cap one end of the pipe with a metal cap tightly!
2. Fill the baby-food jar with vinegar, cover, and wipe clean!
3. Drop the baby-food jar into the pipe lightly as not to break, and add
some gravel.
4. Pour baking soda to the rim into the pipe bomb.
5. Cap the other end very tightly.
Synopsis:
Once you crack the pipe hard enough to break the baby food jar, it will cause
the baking soda to create such pressure, that it will explode. The explosion
is more than effective. Rumor has it that when it was thrown into an old
car, it blew the doors about ten feet away, and the roof three feet into the
air. When this device was constructed by myself, I just stuck it under an old
tree, and it was removed. You have about five minutes to wait, so you might
still have time to acquire a quick alibi.
Using the pipe/pressure bomb:
Someone you hate? Well, creep out of your house real late at night (3-4:00)
and walk up to their house. Crack it to start on the driveway, and throw
under the car. Run home, then read the police reports. Once you have been
better acquainted with device, it can be used to help you out. Throw it
under the stage of a play, or leave it in the bathroom of your school, etc.
CABLE FOR FREE!
This document is a simple way to get
all the cable systems for free:
1. Go out front of your house to where the small green cable box is located. It is about 1 1/2 feet high and will have a padlock on the ground side of it.
2. So you ask, how the heck do I open a locked box? Simple, just pull open the top of it! They are so stupid they don't even lock the top.
3. Ok, now you have opened the cable box you will see the following:
+----------------------+
| () () () |
| |
+----------------------+
There will be a small box with a pipe holding it up in the air. Through trial and error (I guess) you will have to find out which one of the sprockets is yours. After you find out, do this:
Side View:
+----+
+ +-
+ +
+ +
+----+---+
! !
! !
! !<-wire to box
! !
! Pipe +-----+<-scrambler
!<-- !
+------+
Ok, there will be a silver tube conected by two sprockets like this:
+ <-1 sprocket
!
###
###
### <-scrambler
###
!
+ <-2 sprocket
The 1 sprocket will be connected to the box, unscrew the scrambler from the box. Unscrew the wire that is connected into sprocket 2 then connect the wire you just removed from sprocket 2 into the box. Basically you are just removing the scrambler! Now, go back home and watch anything you want. It may seem complicated but once you are out there looking at the box , you will understand.
By the way, if you can't figure out which hole is yours, just give cable to all 3 of you! You and your 2 neighbors.
IMPROVED MOLOTOV COCKTAIL
Here is how you do it:
- get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full
- cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight
- get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.
- now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
and gasoline mix..... Boom!!!!!!
SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB
An article from the book:
The Poor Man's James Bond
by Kurt Saxon
This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The
bottom of a soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant
firecracker or other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts
and bolts or rocks. The fuse is then armed with a chemical delay
in a plastic drinking straw.
After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or glycerine
is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or wall where it will
not be knocked over. The delay should give you three to five minutes. It will
then have a shattering effect on passerbys.
It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone else's
soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink from your bomb
he would break a nasty habit fast!
||
||
|| <-chemical ingiter
---------
! |!| !
!*+---+@!
!*| |#!
!$| |%!
!#| |*!<- big firecracker
!@| |#!
!%+---+@!
!&&%#@**!
!@+*&@%&!
!%@#&%##!
!*$%***@! <- nuts & bolts
!***@#%#!
!#@##**&!
---------
THE ARTS OF LOCKPICKING
Lockpicking I: Cars and Assorted Other Locks
While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not
changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and
techniques have appeared on the scene.
Automobiles:
Many older automobiles can still be opened with a slim jim type of
opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered
fully in the book "in the still of the night", by john russell
iii); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the
lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the slim jim
will not work. So:
American locksmith service
p.o. Box 26
Culver City, Ca 90230
Als offers a new and improved slim jim that is 30 inches long and
3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new
car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00
postage and handling.
Cars manufactured by general motors have always been a bane to
people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit
they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate
matters, the new gm cars employ metal shields to make the use of a
slim jim type instrument very difficult. So:
Lock Cechnology Corporation
685 main st.
New Rochelle, NY 10801
LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock
cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter
and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00
for postage and handling.
The best lock opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by:
Steck Mfg Corporation
1319 W. Stewart st.
Dayton, Oh 45408
For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout
tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.
Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security
locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick
and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder
installed door lock. So:
A Mfg
1151 Wallace st.
Massilon, Oh 44646
Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and
the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by
using the above mentioned kwick out tool.
If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:
Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake, Io 50588
VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since
there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are
group type masters [a.k.a. Tryout keys]). Prices average about
$20.00 a set.
Updated Lockpicking:
For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for
most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they
are as follows:
Normal picking: using a pick set to align the pins, one by one,
until the shear line is set and the lock opens.
Racking: this method uses picks that are constructed with a
series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks
are "raked" (i.e. Run over all the pins at one time).
With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and
stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of
an effort than standard picking.
Lock aid gun: this gun shaped device was invented a number of
years ago and has found application with many
locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a
needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the
"gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action
snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is
slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped
up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will
catch within a short time.
Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in appearance, it is actually an
electronic device. I am speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and
sold by:
Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale, Ar 85252
The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less
noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for
different types of locks) and works both in america and overseas,
on pin or wafer locks. The cobra will open group one locks
(common door locks) in three to seven seconds, in the hands of an
experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds more or up to
a half a minute for someone with no experience at all. It will
also open group two locks (including government, high security, and
medecos), although this can take a short time longer. It will not
open GM side locks, although a device is about to be introduced to
fill that gap. How much for this toy that will open most locks in
seven seconds?
$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.
For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will
open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack
model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy
aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software.
if none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always
fall back on the magic thermal lance...
The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from
3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot
length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on
one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a
matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an
oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a
standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible
amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even
rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few
seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is
available from:
C.O.L. Mfg
7748 W. Addison
Chicago, Il 60634
FLAMETHROWER FUN!
How to Make Your Own Personal Flamethrowing Device
You'll need:
* A small garden sprayer (must be metal)
* A backpack of reasonable size.
* A length of tubing (stiff plastic) about the same diameter as the tubing on
the sprayer (2-3' long).
* A circle fo metal roughly the same diameter as a grapefruit.
* A soldering iron.
* Some solder, black tape, and sealant.
* Some small handles, and insulation.
Now, here's how to make the sucker:
* Take the tubing off of the garden sprayer (mainly cause the fuel will eat
through it, and you will be a crispy critter).
* Replace it with the hard plastic tubing (3).
* Solder the circle of metal on just below the nozzle so that you cannot get
caught by the spray.
* Solder the handles onto the metal part of the sprayer tube, and spray them
with the insulation, then wrap them in black tape.
* Put the tank in the backpack, and zip it up so it's tight, then hook the
zippers together with some wire.
You now have a small reliable Flame thrower!
FLAMETHROWER INSTRUCTIONS:
* Never let your tank run too low.
* Only use the fuel listed below.
* Do not allow the tank to become punctured, or dented.
* Never use an open phlame to light the phlamethrower.
Stick by this, and you should be all right.
FLAMETHROWER FUEL:
The best fuel I have found is:
1 part coleman's lantern fuel.
2 parts kerosene
1 part gas
**WARNING** NEVER use straight gas only!
EFFECTIVE MURDER
Disclaimer:
This file is not intended for everyday use (unless, of course, you're a
psycho, like myself,) but for self-defense, and for your own protection. The
information contained in this file can be found in any major library, or
martial
Arts class. So, for all you feds, or general peace activists, better stop
reading now. You won't enjoy it. and, to all anarchists, I hope you will find
this file enjoyable, and for good use when our nation is in peril, or for
some good old fashioned ass-kicking.
Effective Neck-Breaking Techniques:
*crossneck*
This method will only work if you are much taller (1 1/2 - 2 feet) than
your target, or the target is sitting down (guards, teachers, etc.)
Approach the target from the behind slowly as not to startle, then place
your left arm around the neck, and the right arm across the neck (over the
left)
And grab your upper-left arm with your right arm. Move the right arm upward
sharply, and the left arm left firmly around the neck. Pop the neck out of
the spinal cord, and seperate the head from the rest of the body. The neck
should be quite twistable now. Damage the spinal cord, so the victim has
little/no hope for survival. Don't even think about whipping out a knife.
This method is for killing without leaving a single mark.
*throat demolition*
When using this technique, be sure to rid your concience of any regrets
while attempting this. You will be staring your victin eye-to-eye, and you
dont want to cower out. Your victim will have a scared-shitless look of "why
me?" they will look so innocent, it might make you chicken out.
Creep up to your mark while they are leaning over (reading, loading gun,
etc.)
Stare down at what they're doing by their right side, then place the left
arm around the neck from the underside. In other words, extend the left arm
under their chin, then reach back around to the back of the head. Grab the
neck tightly, place your shoulder on their chest, flip them over onto the
table or floor, then punch them as hard as you can right in the throat.
CREDIT CARD FRAUD
For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:
With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is
easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have
always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is
worth it.
Step One: Getting the Credit Card Information
First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit
card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take
the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local
department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can
next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage
dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit
card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction
sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your
phone comes in handy.
First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much
information as possible about them. Then, during business hours,
call in a very convincing voice - "hello, this is john doe from
the visa credit card fraud investigations department. We have
been informed that your credit card may have been used for
fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers
appearing on your visa card for verification." of course, use
your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for
this ploy and give out their credit information.
Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you
should be able to decipher the information given.
Step Two: Recognizing Information from Carbon Copies
Card examples:
[american express]
xxxx xxxxxx xxxxx
mm/y1 thru mm/y2
joe shmoe
[american express]
xxxx xxxxxx xxxxx
mm/y1 thru mm/y2
joe shmoe
Explanation:
mm/y1 is the date the card was issued, and mm/y2 is the
expiration date. The american express gold card has numbers
xxxxxx xxxxxxxx xxxxxxxx, and is covered for up to $5000.00,
even if the card holder is broke.
[mastercard]
5xxx xxxx xxxx xxxx
xxxx aaa dd-mm-yy mm/yy
joe shmoe
Explanation:
xxxx in the second row may be asked for during the ordering
process. The first date is when the card was new, and the
second is when the card expires. The most frequent number
combination used is 5424 1800 xxxx xxxx. There are many of
these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted
lists, so check these first.
[visa]
4xxx xxx(x) xxx(x) xxx(x)
mm/yy mm/yy*visa
joe shmoe
Explanation:
visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost
everywhere. The "*visa" is sometimes replaced with "bwg", or
followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:
[1] mm/yy*visa v - preferred card
[2] mm/yy*visa cv - classic card
[3] mm/yy*visa pv - premier card
preferred cards are backed with money, and are much safer to
use. Classic cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with
decent backing. Premier cards are classic cards with preferred
coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 xxx xxx, 4254 5123 6000
xxxx, and 4254 5123 8500 xxxx. Any 4712 1250 xxxx xxxx cards
are ibm credit union cards, and are risky to use, although
they are usually covered for large purchases.
Step Three: Testing Credit
You should now have a visa, mastercard, or american express
credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone
number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address,
most phone companies offer the address tracking service, which is
a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the
balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run
out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't
stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that
businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you
go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a
credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number,
give the credit information, and then give what is called a
"merchant number". These numbers are usually written down on or
around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and
copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they
dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you
call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number,
merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau
will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization
number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it
back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it
serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank
removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was
supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the
operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided
not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember
at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to
check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with
a customer when he/she "cancels".
Step four: The Drop
Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the
package sent. Never use a drop more than once. The following are
typical drop sites:
[1] an empty house
an empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the
package ups, and leave a note on the door saying, "ups. I work
days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door
step?" you can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by
telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list
of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the
area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.
[2] rent a spot
U-haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and
signed for. End your space when the package arrives.
[3] people's houses
Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there.
Call ahead saying that "i called the store and they sent the
package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you
keep it there for me?" this is a very reliable way if you keep
calm when talking to the people.
Do not try post office boxes. Most of the time, ups will not
deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in
the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have
determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious
characters and cars that have not been there before.
Step Five: Making the Transaction
You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the
necessary billing information, and a good drop site.
The best place to order from is catalogs, and mail order houses.
It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay
phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call,
don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the
salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are
trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own
voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears
on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of
shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red Shipping (next
day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an
order. If you are using american express, you might have a bit of
a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address.
Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do not hang up.
Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage
investigation on the order.
If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of
charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be
careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states,
ups requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention
that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as
credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a
couple of years. Good luck!
AUTO EXHAUST FLAME THROWER
For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a
switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of
the tail pipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily.
Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the
switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached
to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply
hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no
one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!!
THE VULCAN GRENADE
Intro:
~~~~~~
This is a very simple explosive device that does the most
damage out of any bomb in it's class. It's easy enough to build
and it's actually practical to make about a dozen of them in
a few hours, put them in your Anarchy Bag, and go and attack
the local police station, all in the same night!
Materials:
~~~~~~~~~~
1. CO2 bottles (for BB guns) that you can buy at
any Woolworth or store that sells pellet guns.
2. Fuse. Good old fuse. Don't be cheap, get the
good stuff. They sell it at most hobby shops that
carry parts for model rockets.
3. Black Powder, aka Gun Powder. This might be
difficult for some people, especially those who
are deprived and don't have any guns at home.
Personally I would die if I didn't have any guns
at home but... anyway back to the gunpowder.
Use either FFF or FFFF. If you can't get ahold
of black powder, you're screwed and can't use this
bomb. In the future if I feel like it I'll write
a file on how to make black powder. It's real easy
but *VERY* dangerous. So if you don't have any
black powder sit tight and wait for my next file.
* NOTE: If you have smokeless powder, don't use it. It
HAS to be black powder because black powder explodes,
which is what you want. Smokeless powder like the
kind you use for reloading won't build up enough
pressure and your Vulcan Grenade won't do anything.
4. Rubber Cement or model glue. You only need a very
small amount. Even Elmer's Glue is good in a pinch.
Building the Bomb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Take one of your CO2 bottle and empty it out. You can
pop the cartridge in one of your BB guns and shoot holes in
the neighbors windows like I used to or you can just take an
electric drill and drill a hole in the top of the bottle and
get the CO2 out that way. If you use the drill, be carefull
because when the CO2 comes out very fast the bottle becomes
supercooled and you could get frostbite on your hand. Wear
mittens or better yet a pot holder. You should be in a well
ventilated area when you do this as well because you'll have
a cloud of CO2 floating around which isn't poisonous but
could suffocate you because only plants breate CO2, not people.
After you have an empty CO2 bottle, take a funnel like you
would use for changing oil in your car, put the small end on
the neck of the empty CO2 bottle, and pour as much black
powder into the bottle are you can fit. Stuff it in there.
Now take your fuse, which should be slightly smaller in
diameter than the hole in the neck of the CO2 bottle. Insert
the fuse into the bottle. If the fuse won't fit, take your
electric drill and use a larger drill bit and make the hole
just big enough for the fuse to fit in. Don't worry if it's
not a perfectly airtight fit, it never is. Make sure the fuse
goes inside the bottle at least 3/4 an inch, preferrably
even deeper. It should be in well enough so that you don't
have to worry about it falling out. If you have to spill out
a LITTLE bit of black powder, that's okay.
Now we'll make finish everything up. Take the rubber cement
or model glue, and put a few drops around the opening of the
CO2 bottle. Don't use tons and tons of it, just 3 or 4 drops.
Use enough just to give you a good seal around the edge of the
fuse where it enters the bottle. It doesn't have to be a super
tight indestructable seal. Just enough to keep the black powder
from pouring out while you're carrying it.
*KNOW HOW MUCH FUSE YOU NEED*. Commercial hobby shop fuse
burns ABOUT 3 seconds to the inch. Use at LEAST 8 to 10 inches
of fuse. This bomb is small but it will kill EVERYTHING within
a radius of about 10 to 15 yards. I buried one in the ground and
lit it and it blew chunks of mud about 10 feet high and made
a crater about 4 feet in diameter. This is a shrapnel explosive,
which means itsey bitsey pieces of steel come flying towards
you at speeds of up to 500 miles per hour which then bury
themselves into your flesh and cause great traumatic damage
leaving you and your friends dead and scattered all over the
ground. This bomb is very LOUD. We're talking MEGA LOUD.
Basically you don't want to be within 1/2 mile of this thing when
it explodes if you're in a quiet neighborhood becase EVERYONE
within about 1/4 mile or more will hear it go off.
PHONE RELATED VANDALISM
If you live where there are underground lines then you will be
able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is
go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces
their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the
major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are
usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench
and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a
sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their
phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but
must be replaced (there is a week's worth of work for 'em!!)
SURVIVALIST PYROTECHNICS
It is almost imperative for the modern-day snow camper to carry around a
bit of gasoline (I know, only the shitbaits do that, but the wind gets pretty
rough out there). Once that much has been done, you are ready for
the survivalist's bomb: in other files, the generic bomb. This bomb is
infamous among Bulletin Boards, but because it suits this method better, I
call it the Survivalist's Bomb.
1 jar, pipe, etc. Few drops of gasoline. A few drops of potassium permanganate found in most all snakebite kits. Put in a few drops of gas into the jar, pipe, etc... And coat the surface inside.
Ii. Once the gas has evaporated, put in a few drops of Pot. Permangate, and
close the jar shut.
Throw the jar at your target, or the truck under you, or into the crowd at the mardi-gras and be far away. This bomb will pack 1/2 stick of standard GCM dynamite. Handy, indeed.
BUILD A MUAVE BOX
Please bear with me, as the construction of this box will seem rather
silly. This box was found in a construction site. Or rather, it found
us at a construction site. We were using a $5 radio shack phone out of
a semi-completed office building. One afternoon during a holiday, and
immediately following a storm, we found our bus in shambles. To our
suprise, we also found that one of the phone connections we were tapping
had been draped through a murky puddle. The fact that suprised us even
more was that this line still worked and now posessed some great
capabilities.
Materials:
2 tupperware or similar 8oz containers
1 small bag earth (dirt) (12oz)
1 pint water
2 lantern batteries
1 nine volt battery
1 battery clip
2 spst switches
4 ounces of iron shavings
2 polar magnets
5 feet wire
1 set soldering equipment
This is the part you won't believe. Take the tupperware containers, and
fill them with a mixture of the earth and the iron shavings. Make sure
that the mixture is well done. (*note* for best results, use the sand
in fine ash trays.) cut the red and green wires and splice the switches
into them. From the switches, solder wire to the magnets. Connect the
red to the + (positive) side of one magnet, and the green to the -
(negative) side of the second magnet. From the other poles of the
magnet, solder wires the battery & clip. Make sure the + (positive) and
- (negative) are correct.
Set the nine-volt battery between the two tupperware containers and
place the battery end of the two magnets into the tupperware. Now connect
wire to the two poles of the lantern battery, and place them in the same
containers as the poles of the magnets/9-volt battery. You are almost
done. Finally, add just enough water to the two pots, and let them sit in
the sun and bake like bricks. At this point, you have a mauve box.
Explaining and using what you have:
The red and green wires have been placed into a magnetic field which is
being charged continually be a lantern battery. (it is necessary to
change this battery every one to one and a half months.) this will
literaly pull in the nearest phone conversatiion. (don't try this in a
big apartment or dorm.) when the 9-volt battery is connected, this will
now create enough current for the poles of the magnets to reverse
themselves (perhaps you're seen mr. Wizard do this. It's just like with
the soap). At this point, you have a phone transmitting to one (if not
more) of the nearest phones. (again, if you're in a dorm, don't try
this) I suppose this just accomplishes what a tap would do, but
with a mauve box, your fingerprints never will show on a terminal or on
someones telephone lines.
Notes and addendum:
This will only work with a touch-tone phone connected to a phone line.
When the switches are pulled, it's off your line and into the air. This
is named a mauve box, because this is the most disgusting box, and I
find mauve to be the single most disgusting colour I know of.
TEAR GAS
An Article from the Book:
The Poor Man's James Bond
by Kurt Saxon
There are several eye and nose irritants on the market which can be
easily duplicated.
A good irritant is formaldehyde. better known as embalming fluid, it
smells horrible, hurts the eyes and nose, and on exposure to the air it
vaporizes, making a room uninhabitable for hours.
It can be squirted from a water pistol or nasal inhaler, or poured on the
floor.
It can be bought at the drug store under the pretext of wanting
it to preserve mice or some other lab specimen.
The irritant mailmen use against dogs and which is sold widely for self
defense is Oleoresid Capsicum. Capsicum is the hot essence of red peppers.
Oleoresin is the process for extracting it. To extract the capsicum, grind up
four ounces of red pepper seeds in a blender or with a mortar and pestle.
Red pepper seeds are bought in the grocers's.
The dry, ground seeds are then put into a coffee percolator in which there
is about 16 oz. of alcohol, preferably with the water distilled out. the seeds
Are then percolated for about a half hour. The alcohol is then distilled off
until there are only a couple of table spoons of red liquid left in the flask.
The red liquid is then added to a half pint of light mineral oil, bought at a
drug store.
It can be sprayed from a nasal sprayer...
You could also use a window cleaning sprayer bought at any dime
store. The tube of the sprayer is cut to fit in a two ounce medicine bottle.
This way you have enough of the goody to last through a whole demonstration,
no matter which side you're on. It is also nice to keep by the door or by
your computer to repel intruders.
Before using, the container should be given a few shakes. Under laboratory
conditions all the oil is extracted from the seeds. But with my mickey mouse
method a lot of oil is left in sothe residue is quite potent. Just be sure you
strain out any larger bits so the sprayer hole is not clogged. The ground seeds
left in the percolator are dried and saved. They are great for throwing into the
faces of people in a mob. If you really want a laugh, throw some broadcast from
a theater balcony during the death scene in a "love story".
The goody called mace is probably only acrolein. If not, it works just
as well and is simple and fun to produce.
Acrolein is not toxic but causes horrible pain in the nose and copious
tears, and irritates the skin. A shot in the face from a water pistol or
some other sprayer will put anyone out of the game for at least half an hour.
Acrolein is best made one ounce at A time. Put in the flask 2 1/2 ounces
Of glycerine and 3/4 ounce of sodium Bisulfate (sani-flush), both of which
can be bought at any grocery store. The still is set up with the outside
tube connected as the fumes are bad. When the mixture starts to bubble it
Must be watched constantly to make sure It does not bubble up into the neck of
The flask. If it starts for the neck of the flask, remove the lamp until it
settles down. If the lamp is too hot, The tin can is raised on small blocks
Until the right heat is gotten. Distill off an ounce of acrolein and take away
the lamp. An ounce is all it is good for. Let the flask cool for an hour
before opening and cleaning. Pour the residue down the sink and put your face
over the drain to get a sample of the vapor. then cap the receiving bottle and
wash everything the acrolein was in contact with. the best squirter for the
three irritants above is a water pistol.
***ATTENTION*** Most water pistols leak badly so they must be transported
barrel up so the goody won't ooze out around the trigger. It will leak when you
use it so it is best to put it in a plastic sandwich bag with the opening held
around the barrel with the rubberband. If the pistol has a trigger guard it
should be cut off and then it can be used just as easily in a plastic bag as
otherwise. For casual carrying around, you can't beat a nasal spray. the best
ones can be screwed open so the goody can be poured in. if not, you have to
squeeze it and put its nozzle into the goody. When the pressure is released the
irritant will be sucked up.
Irritants are illegal to carry in some states. that's one of the
reasons the nasal spray is best. if you are searched and it is found, there
is little chance it will be recognized for what it is. I don't know what
advice to give you if the cop has the sniffles and goes to use some of your
goody.
SIMPLE SMOKE BOMB
Get ten packets for sugar, and ten packets of salt. Grab a straw, and have a
lighter nearby. Pour all of this into an ash-tray, and heat the bottom with
a lighter, until it melts. Stir occasionally. Once it has been all melted,
stick a bunch of matchheads (if possible) into the goop. When done, stick a
straw into the goop nice and deep. Stop heating, and leave it on a chair so
it solidifies. Drop some matchheads into the straw. When it is nice and
solid, light the straw and leave. It will fill a moderately-sized cafeteria
with thick white smoke. If you want to improve, pour formaldahyde into the
solution for instant tear-gas.
IMPROVISED DETONATORS AND PRIMERS
A detonator is an explosive that is very sensitive either to impact or to
a spark. Examples are mercury fulminate and lead azide. Up until the middle
of the word primer is also used for a small explosive charge (such as in a
blasting cap) used to detonate a less sensitive explosive. Most explosives
such as tnt, nitroglycerin, petn, RDX, picric acid, etc. Require a primer of
some sort.
There are literally dozens of chemical mixtures that will explode when
properly confined and ignited by fuse or other suitable means. Many of them,
however, have the disadvantage that they either draw moisture easily, or that
they are too sensitive to handle safely. Some of the more suitable mixtures
are discussed below.
One suitable detonator can be made by suspending ten grams of powdered
picric acid in 20 cc of water,adding ten grams of litharge,stirring the
mixture,then allowing it to evaporate from a shallow dish.
To make a substitute blasting cap, two grams of this dried mixture can be pressed into an empty cartridge case (30-06, or similar size). A fuse is
then placed in the end of the case gently.
A composition suitable for making primers that will explode from impact
can be prepared by mixing this picric acid litharge mixture with 25% powdered
glass styphnate.
Another good detonating chemical is silver oxalate, which may be
prepared as follows: make up two separate water solutions, one of which is a
semi-saturated solution of silver nitrate, and the other a semi-saturated
solution of oxalic acid. When the two solutions are poured toghether,
crystals of silver oxalate will form and settle out at the bottom of the
container. These may be filtered out through a fine sieve and allowed to
dry. Confined in a cartridge case, they will detonate when ignited by a
fuse. Both oxalic acid and silver nitrate are widely industrial chemicals,
and should be available in spite of restricted conditions. Both of these
chemicals are poisonous and should be handled with caution.
A blank rifle cartridge (those used simply to make noise) can also be
fused in this manner to serve as a substitute blasting cap.
