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9 d Guide to Anarchy 2 +----------------------------+ | American Dynamite, revised | +----------------------------+ Procedure --------- Mix 170 parts tolulene with 100 parts acid (this acid is 2 parts 70% nitric acid and 3 parts 100% sulfuric acid). Mix below 30 degrees. Set this down for 30 minutes and let it separate. Mix 100 parts mononitrotolulene with 215 parts acid (this acid is 1 part pure nitric acid and 2 parts pure sulfuric acid). Keep the temperature at 60-70 degrees while mixing slowly. Raise the temperature to 90-100 and stir for 30 minutes. Seperate the dinitrotoluene and mix 100 parts of it with 225 parts of 20% oleum (oleum is 100% sulfuric acid with 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 65 parts nitric acid). Heat at 95 degrees for 60 minutes, then at 120 degrees for 90 minutes. Separate the trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hot water. Purify the powder by soaking it in benzyne. [3] Text files: (1-19,?,Q) : +-------------------------------------+ | Carding Misconcesptions and Answers | +-------------------------------------+ Preface ------- This article is hoped to elighten you on some of the grey areas most files either do not clarify, or don't know what they are talking about. This should be the most accurate file available dealing with credit fraud. Obtaining Cards --------------- Despite popular belief, there IS a formula for visa and mastercard numbers. All credit card account numbers are issued by on issuing company, in this case, Visa or Mastercard. Although the banks are not aware of any type of pattern to the account numbers, there IS one that can be found. Accounts -------- All you need to use a VISA/Master Card account successfully is the account number itself. First of all, on all Visa/Master Cards, the name means NOTHING. You don't need the name and address of the cardholder to successfully use the account, at no time during authorization is the name ever needed, and with over 50,000 banks, credit unions, and various other financial institutions issuing cards, and only 5 major credit verification services, it is impossible to keep personal data on each cardholder. Ordering something and having it sent with the real cardholder's name will only make things more difficult, at best. There is no way that you can tell if the card is a normal card, or a premium (gold) card merely by looking at the account number. The only thing that can be told by the account number is the bank that issued the card, but this again, is not needed. The expiration date means NOTHING, it's only a binary-type check to see if the card is good, (Yes/No), and NOT a checksum-type check code which has to be matched up to the card account to be valid. Carding Stupid Things --------------------- Whenever ANYONE tries to card something for the first time, they ALWAYS want to get something for their computer. This is nice and all, but just think that every person that has ever tried to card has tried to get a hard drive and a new modem. Everyone does it, thus every single computer company out there is aware and watching for that. Some advice, NEVER order computer equipment. Common sense should tell you that the merchants are going to go out of there way to check the cards. Merchant Checking ----------------- Now to review the two basic ways that almost all mail-order merchants use. Keep these in mind when designing your name, address and phone number for your drop. The Directory Assistance Cross-Reference ---------------------------------------- This method is most popular because it is cheap, yet effective. You can usually tell these types of checks because during the actual order, you are asked questions such as "What is your HOME telephone number" and your billing address. Once they have this information, they can call directory assistance for your area code, say 312, and ask "May I have the phone number for a Larry Jerutis at 342 Stonegate Drive?" Of course, the operator should give a number that matches up with the one that you gave them as your home number. If it doesn't, the merchant knows that something is up. Even if it is an unlisted number, the operator will say that there is a Jerutis at that address, but the telephone number is non-published, which is enough to satisfy the merchant. If a problem is encountered, the order goes to a special pile that is actually called and the merchant will talk to the customer directly. Many merchants have policy to not ship at all if the customer can not provide a home phone number that corresponds with the address. The Call Back ------------- This deals with the merchant calling you back to verify the order. This does not imply, however, that you can stand by a payphone and wait for them to call back. Waiting by a payphone stupid, very few, if any, places other than the pizza shop will call back immediately like that. Most places will process your order, etc, and then call you, sometimes it's the next day, sometimes that night. It is too difficult to predict when they will call back, but if they don't get a hold of you, or only get a busy, or an answering machine, they won't send the merchandise until they speak with you voice. This method is difficult to defeat, but fortunately, due to the high cost of phone bills, the directory assistance method is preferred. Billing Address --------------- This should ALWAYS be the address that you are having the stuff sent to. One of the most stupidest things you can do would be to say something like "Well, I don't want it sent to my house, I want it sent to....", or "Well, this is my wifes card, and her name is ....". This may work, but for the most part, only arouse suspicion. If the order sounds pretty straightforward, and there isn't any unusual situations, it will better the chances of the order going through. Drop Houses ----------- These are getting harder and harder to come by for the reasons that people are more careful then before, and that UPS is smarter, also. Your best bet is to hit somebody that just moved, and I mean JUST moved, being that UPS will not know that there is nobody at the house anymore if it is within, say, a week of their moving. It's getting to the point where in some areas, UPS won't even leave the stuff on the doorstep, due to liability on their part of doing that. The old "Leave the stuff in the shrubs while I am at work" note won't work, most people are smart enough to know that something is odd, and will more than likely leave the packages with the neighbors before they shove that hard drive in the bushes. Many places, such as Cincinatti Microwave (maker of the Escort and Passport radar detectors) require a signature when the package is dropped off, making it that much harder. Best Bet -------- This method seems to work well, despite being a bit harder to match up names and phone numbers. Go to an apartment building and go to the top floor. The trashier the place, the better. Knock on the door and ask if "Bill" is there. Of course, there should be no Bill at that address. Look surprised, then say "Well, my friend Bill gave me this address as being his." The occupants will again say "Sorry, but there is no Bill here.". Say, "I just moved here to go to school and had my folks send me a bunch of stuff for school here, thinking this was Bill's place." They almost always say "Oh Boy...". Then respond with "Well, if something comes, could you hold it for me? I'll come back in a week and see if anything came." They will always say something like, "Sure, I guess we could do that.". Thank them a million times for helping out, then leave. A few days after your stuff comes, drop by and say, "Hi, I'm Jim, did anything come for me?". If everything went alright, it should have. The best thing to do here is only order one or two small things, rather than an AT system with an extra monitor. People feel more comfortable about signing for something small for someone, rather than something big, because most people naturally think the bigger it is, the more expensive it is. This is a great method, the apartment occupants will usually sign for the stuff, and be more than happy to help out. Advice ------ Never become greedy. Sure, the first shipment may come in so easy, so risk-free that you feel as if you can do it forever. Well, you can't. Eventually, if you do it frequently enough, you will become the subject of a major investi-gation by the local authorities if this becomes a real habit. Despite anything anyone ever tells you about the police being "stupid and ignorant", you better reconsider. The police force is a VERY efficient organization once they have an idea as to who is committing these crimes. They have the time and the money to catch you. Don't do it with friends. Don't even TELL friends that you are doing it. This is the most stupid, dangerous thing that you could do. First of all, I don't care how good of friends anyone may be, but if a time came that you hated each other, this incident could be very bad for you. What could be even worse is a most common scenario: You and a friend get a bunch of stuff, very successfully. You tell a few friends at school, either you or him have to tell only one person and it gets all over. Anyways, there is ALWAYS some type of informant in every high-school. Be it a teacher, son or daughter of a cop, or whatever, there is always a leak. The police decide to investigate, and find that it is becoming common knowledge that you and/or your friend have ways of getting stuff for "free" via the computer. Upon investigation, they call in your friend, and tell him that they have enough evidence to put out a warrant for his arrest, and that they might be able to make a deal with him. If he gives a complete confession, and be willing to testify against your in court, they will let him off with only paying the restitution (paying for the stuff you got). Of course, just about anyone is going to think about themselves, which is understandable, and you will get the raw end of the deal. Don't let anyone ever tell you that as a minor, you won't get in any trouble, because you can and will. If you are really uncooperative, they may have you tried as an adult, which would really put you up the creek, and even as a juvenile, you are eligible to receive probation, fines, court costs, and just about anything else the judge wants to do with you. +--------------------------+ | Nitrogen Triiodide Bombs | +--------------------------+ Procedure --------- Mix 3 grams of Potassium Iodide, 5 grams of Iodine, and 50mL of water into a beaker. Add 20mL of Ammonium Hydroxide (Ammonia water 10%), and filter. The resulting solid is called Nitrogen Triiodide. When wet, it is safe enough, but upon drying it becomes very explosive and shock sensitive to the point of being set off by a feather. To use this explosive, all you need to do is put some on or inside the desired object and then drop or throw it like an impact bomb. Due to its sensitivity, it should explode upon impact with the target. ┌───────────────────────────┐ │ Phone Tapping made `easy' │ └───────────────────────────┘ PART I: THE LAW Federal law Section 605 of title 47 of the U.S code forbids interception of communication or divulagance of intercepted communication except by persons outlined in section 119 of title 18 (a portion of the Omnibus crime control and safe streets act of 1968). This act states: "It shall not be unlawful under this act for an operator of a switchboard, or an officer, employee, or agent of any communication common carrier who's switching system is used in the transmission of a wire communication to intercept or disclose intercepted communication." If you decide to tap anyway, and get caught, it could cost you up to 5 years of your life and $10,000. PART II: TAPPING METHODS Beige Box A.K.A the BUD BOX or LINEMAN PHONE, this consists simply of a phone with the modular wall plug removed, and two alligator clips attached to the red and green wires. This is used by entering the yard of the person you wish to tap, and put it onto his line. This is best done at the bell phone box which is usually next to the gas meter. It should only have one screw holding it shut, and is very easily opened. Once you are in, you should see 4 screws with wires attached to them. If the house has one line, then clip the red lead to the first screw, and the green to the second. You are then on the tappee's phone. You will be directly on the tappee's line. I suggest removing the speaker from the phone that you're using so the tappee can't hear you. If the house has two lines, the second line is on screws three and four. If you connect everything right, but don't get on the line, then you probably have the wires backward. Switch the red to the second screw and the green to the first. Recorder There are LOTS of ways to tape conversations. The two easiest are either to put a "telephone induction pickup" (Radio Shack $1.99) on the "BEIGE BOX" you were using, then plug it into the microphone jack of a small tape recorder, and leave it on record. Or plug the recorder right into the line. To do this, cut off the earphones of a walkman plug, pick one of the two earphone wires and strip it. There should be another wire inside the one you just stripped. Strip that one too, and attach alligators to them. Then follow the "BEIGE BOX" instructions to tape the conversation. In order to save tape, you may want to use a voice activated recorder (Radio Shack $59), or if your recorder has a remote jack, you can get a "telephone recorder control" (Radio shack $19), that turns the recorder on when the phone is on, and off when the phone is off. This box plugs right into the wall modularly so it is best NOT to remove the modular plug for it. Work around it if you can. If not, then just do you best to get a good connection. Keep your recorder hidden (in the Bell box if possible), but in a place easy enough to change tapes. Wireless Microphone Transmits a signal from the phone to the radio (FM band). Buy a wireless microphone (Radio Shack $19). They are easy to build and easy to hook up. There are so many different models, that is is nearly impossible to tell you exactly what to do. The most common thing to do is to cut off the microphone element, and attach these two wires to screws one and two. The line MIGHT, depending on the brand, be "permanently off hook". This is bad, but playing around with it for a while should get it working. There are two drawbacks to using this method One, is the person who is getting his phone tapped might hear himself on FM 88, the principal connection. The second proble is the range. The store bought transmitters have a VERY short range. I suggest that you build the customized version I will present in part three. Easy-Talks You will need a set of "Easy-talk" walkie-talkies. They are voice activated, and cost about $59. You can find them at toy stores, and hi-tech catalogs. I think that any voice activated walkie-talkie will work, but I have only tried the easy-talks. First, you have to decide on one for the "transmitter" and one for the "receiver". It is best to use the one with the strongest transmission to transmit, even though it may receive better also. Desolder the speaker of the "transmitter", and the microphone of the "receiver". Now, go to the box. Put the walkie talkie on "VOX" and hook the microphone leads (as in method three) to the first and second screws in the box. Now go home, and listen on your walkie-talkie. If nothing happens, then the phone signal wasn't strong enough to "activate" the transmission. If this happens, there are two things you can do. One, add some ground lines to the microphone plugs. This is the most inconspicuous, but if it doesn't work then you need an amplifier, like a walkman with two earphone plugs. Put the first plug on the line, and then into one of the jacks. Then turn the volume all the way up (not pressing play). Next connect the second earphone plug to the mice wires, and into the second earphone outlet on the walkman. Now put the whole mess in the box, and lock it. PART III: WIRELESS TRANSMITTER PLANS This is a tiny transmitter that consists of a one colpitts oscillator which derives it's power from the phone line. Since the resistance it puts on the line is less than 100 ohms, it has no effect on the telephone performance, and can not be detected by the phone company, or the tappee. This thing uses four diodes to form a "bridge rectifier". It produces a varying DC voltage varying with the auto-signals on the line. That voltage is used to supply the the vol-tage for the oscillator transistor which is connected to a radio circuit. From there, you can tune it to any channel you want. Parts List ┌─────────────────┬────────────────────────────────────────────┐ │ Item │ Description │ ╞═════════════════╪════════════════════════════════════════════╡ │ C1 │ 47-Pf ceramic disk capacitor │ │ C2,C3 │ 27-Pf mica capacitor │ │ CR1,CR2,CR3,CR4 │ germanium diode 1n90 or equivalent │ │ R1 │ 100 ohm, 1/4 watt 10% composition resistor │ │ R2 │ 10k, 1/4 watt 10% composition resistor │ │ R3 │ .7k, 1/4 watt 10% composition resistor │ │ L1 │ 2 uH radio frequency choke (see text) │ │ L2 │ 5 turns No.20 wire (see text) │ │ Q1 │ Npn rf transistor 2N5179 or equivalent │ └─────────────────┴────────────────────────────────────────────┘ L1 may be constructed by winding approximately 40 turns of No.36 enamel wire on a mega-ohm, 1/2 watt resistor. The value of L1 is not critical. L2 can be made by wrapping 5 turns of No.20 wire around a 1/4 inch form. After the wire is wrapped, the form can be removed. Just solder it into place on the circuit board. It should hold quite nicely. Also be sure to position Q1 so that the emitter, base, and collector are in the proper holes. The odd thing about this bug that we haven't entountered yet, is that it is put on only one wire (either red or green) so go to the box, remove the red wire that was ALREADY on screw #1 and attach it to wire "A" of the bug. Then attach wire "B" to the screw itself. You can adjust the frequency which it comes out on the FM channel by either smooshing, or widening the coils of L2. It takes a few minutes to get to work right, but it is also very versatile. You can change the frequency at will, and you can easily record off your radio. PART IV: HELPFUL HINTS First of all, using the BEIGE BOX, you may notice that you can also dial out. I recommend you don't do this. If you decide to do something conspicuous like set up a 30 person conference for three hours, then I suggest that you make sure the people are either out of town or dead. In general, when you tap a line, you must be careful. Test everything you make on your line first, then install it late at night. I also don't recommend you leave a recorder on all day. Put it on when you want it going, and take it off when you're done. As far as recording goes, I think a recorder on the line sends a sporadic beep back to the phone CO. If you don't record directly off the line (i.e off your radio) then even the most sophisticated equipment can't tell that you're recording. When installing something, make sure the people are NOT on the line. Installation tends to make lots of scratchy sounds, clicks and static. It is generally a good thing to avoid. Just call the house before you go to install the thing. +-------------------------------------+ | Plastique (trinitrophenol), revised | +-------------------------------------+ Preface ------- This is highly TOXIC, use rubber gloves - this should be done where there is PLENTY of ventilation. Use GLASS containers for mixing, storing, etc. This compound reacts with metal and creates salts that are VERY sensitive PRIMARY explosives. This procedure should take about three hours to complete. The explosive characteristics are not as good as C4 but easy to make. It's Detination Velocity is aproximately 7000 meters per second, higher than that of TNT. A number 6 blasting cap will usually be sufficient. Equipment --------- 1. 600 milliliter beaker 2. Pyrex dish 3. Large Pyrex bowl 4. Electric frying pan 5. Morter and pestle 6. Coffee filters 7. Glass stirring rods 8. Rubber gloves Ingredients ----------- 1. Aspirin (not buffered, cheap generic 1000 is usually good) 2. 98% Sulfuric Acid (gas stations use it for charging batteries) 3. Methyl Alcohol (easy to find) 4. Sodium Nitrate (salt substitute) or Potassium Nitrate (Salt peter) 5. Cooking oil (for bath to heat chemicals) 6. Wax 7. Vaseline 8. Ice 9. Water 10. Distilled water Step One -------- 1. Powder the aspirin to a FINE consistency. 2. Place the aspirin powder in warm Methyl Alcohol, stir vigorously. (Not all aspirin will dissolve.) 3. Filter out the undissolved powder and add more alcohol (but not as much this time) filter again, combine alcohol. 4. Allow the alcohol to evaporate in the shallow dish. This will leave almost pure acetysalicylic acid crystals. Step Two -------- 1. Make a hot oil bath. Fill electric frying pan almost 3/4 full with oil, set thermostat to 150 degrees. Place beaker in bath and add 150ml of Sulfuric acid. 2. Add 40 grams of acid crystals to the 150ml Sulfuric acid already in the bath). Make sure ALL the crystals dissolve. Remove beaker from bath. Step Three (recommend doing this outside) ---------- 1. SLOWLY begin adding 58g of Sodium Nitrate (or 77g of Potassium Nitrate) to the beaker while stirring continually. A red gas should form, this is Nitrogen Trioxide and it is VERY toxic in VERY small amounts! STAY AWAY FROM IT! If the mixture foams (and it probably will), wait for the foaming to subside. 2. Allow the mixture to cool to aproximately 30 - 40 degrees Celcius. 3. Place this into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. 4. Filter out the Bright yellow crystals which form. Step four --------- 1. Place the filtered yellow crystals into 200ml of boiling DISTILLED water. Let the water cool and filter the crystals which are now VERY VERY pure Trinitrophenol. 2. Remove most of the oil from the oil bath. Place a Pyrex dish in the bath and add enough oil to heat the dish without contaminating the T.N.P. Heat this to 80 degrees Celcius and hold it there for two hours. Maintain the temperature with a thermometer. Remove from heat. Step five --------- 1. Take the T.N.P. crystals and powder them to a face powder consistency. 2. Mix the crystals with 10% Wax and 5% vaseline (% by weight). 3. Knead this to a uniform consistency using rubber gloves. 4. Shape into 4 by 4 by 1/5 slabs. +----------------------------------+ | Acetylene Balloon Bombs, revised | +----------------------------------+ Ingredients ----------- 1. Balloon or plastic bag, it depends on the desired size. 2. "Snap-Pops", one dozen should be plenty. 3. Garbage bag twisty-ties or string. 4. Rocks, not too heavy, it depends on the bomb's size and velocity desired. 5. Acetylene gas, used in acetylene torches. Warning! -------- Acetylene is a fairly dangerous substance. It is unstable upon contact with oxygen (air). For this reason, and for your safety, I recommend you keep all of the acetylene AWAY from any source of oxygen. This means don't let it get in touch with air. Procedure --------- 1. FILL a bathtub with cold water and submerge the bag in the tub. Fill it with water. Make sure ALL oxygen (air) is out of the bag before proceeding. 2. Using the acetylene source (I recommend using it stright from the torch), fill the bag with acetylene. 3. Being careful with the acetylene, remove the bag from the tub and tie the opening shut with the twisty or string. Allow the balloon to dry in a safe place. 4. When dry and filled with acetlene, open the bag again and drop in a couple rocks. Now add a few "Snap-Pops". The rocks carry the balloon down, and the "Snap-Pops" will spark upon impact, thus setting off the highly inflammable acetylene. 5. Put the twisty or string back on VERY tightly. You now have a delicate, yet powerful balloon bomb. Conclusion ---------- Just drop off of a cliff, airplane, building, or whatever. It will hit the ground and explode in a fireball. Be careful you are not near the explosion site. And be careful you are not directly above the blast or the fireball may rise and give you a few nasty burns. +---------------------+ | Bolt Bombs, revised | +---------------------+ Preface ------- This "bomb" isn't really destructive, although I would hate to be nailed in the head by a flying piece of it. Materials --------- 1 nut - fairly large in size. 2 bolts - both the same size and both the correct size to fit in the nut. A box of strike-anywhere matches. Procedure --------- Screw one bolt about 1/4 the way onto the nut. Cut the top layer off (this should be done with a razor blade) 4 to 5 matches carefully, so as to not set them off. Put the heads (white part) into the space that is between the other side of the bolt and the nut. Carefully screw down the other bolt snugly onto the other side of the nut. You now should have two bolts connected in the center by a nut, and match heads between the bolts inside the nut. Conclusion ---------- Now throw it at something solid, and hard, like the street for instance, and be sure you throw it hard, and far. These can be a lot of fun, and take only a short time to build. +------------------------------+ | Shotgun Shell Bombs, revised | +------------------------------+ These little goodies are affectionately known as "nut busters". They are simply shotgun shells enclosed in cardboard rolls with cardboard fins. On the primer end of the shell is glued a small cork with a hole drilled through it. A roofing nail fits in the hole snugly enough to stay in, but loose enough to plunge into the primer upon impact. Since the shell is not confined in the chamber of the gun, it will naturally not cause the same amount of damage. These bombs are thrown singly or by the handful into the air over milling crowds. The weight of the shell and stabilization by the fins causes the nut buster to go straight downward. +---- | \ Cork -> | \ / | | v +------+------------|\ F | +-----+ | \ | i -> |------ | | |---| <- Roofing nail n | +-----+ | / | s +------+------------|/ | | ^ -> | / ^ \ | / | \ +---- | Shell | Close fitting 3-1/2 inch Aluminum Tubing Glued on Shell. A clever use for a plain shotgun shell is as a muffler bomb. The shell is simply shoved up a car's exhaust pipe with a piece of stiff wire until it drops into the muffler. After a few minutes on the road the shell explodes, totalling the muffler and treating the driver to a sick kind of panic. | Sugar & Saltpetre Smoke Bombs, revised | +----------------------------------------+ Ingredients ----------- Potassium Nitrate (Saltpetre, can sometimes be obtained from drugstores) Sugar Alcohol (100% is best, but plain rubbing alcohol will work) Gunpowder (or some ground-up rocket engines) Matches Coffee can (or anything similar) Cigarette Instructions ------------ Combine the sugar and saltpetre in a 3 to 1 ratio (Sugar:saltpetre) and heat over a low flame until the mixture has thoroughly melted together. (It will look like sticky white lumps when ready) You need to stir this continually while heating, and remove it from the flame at the very first sign of smoke. I had a batch go off in my face once, and the workroom was filled with smoke for a good half hour. It is easier and safer to work with smaller batches. Now, dump the "smoke powder" into the coffee can, add some match heads, moisten it with a little alcohol, and add gunpowder until all the smoke powder is coated. Now tape a cigarette between the match heads in an unopened book. Imbed the book into the mixture. Light the butt, and walk away casually to find a nice alibi within 5 minutes. Notes ----- The gunpowder, match heads, and alcohol are all used simply to insure good ignition. You can omit them, but if you have them, mix them in for the sake of reliability. For the fuse, you can use the one listed, or some other type off use such as a rocket igniter and an electrical system. Conclusion ---------- A quarter pound of this stuff is supposed to engulf a whole city block. I'm not sure if this is accurate, but it sure fills a public bathroom nicely. +---------------------------------+ | Phun With Bic Lighters, revised | +---------------------------------+ Shower of sparks from nowhere ----------------------------- This trick is done usually with an empty lighter. Disassemble the top, being careful not to loose the flint, and the spring, which are under the striker wheel. Throw away everything else, unless there is still some fluid in the lighter, which can be used for some of the other things in this file. Save the flint and spring. Take the spring, and pull on the end a little, and stretch the spring out a little longer than the flint. Next, take the flint, and kind of wrap the end of the spring around it. It should look sort of like fig. A. Hold the spring by the end that doesn't have flint on it, and heat the flint till it glows. Don't worry, the heat won't burn your fingers. Then, throw it flint first at victim, pavement, or whatever. Fig. A \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\------ /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\------ <- heat this end ^ ^ | | spring flint Two things to do with the leftover casing ----------------------------------------- 1. Light one of the striker wheel supports, and lay it upside down in a corner and run! This should `blow' pretty well. 2. Wrap the casing loosely with a paper towel, light the towel, step back, and shoot it with a BB gun. Once again...`blam'. A more potent version... ------------------------ Use the same principal of the lighter casing above except use an aeresol can. It would help to check the label of the can to see if it says, "caution, highly flammable". Just wrap the can with a paper towel, light the towel, move away, and nail the can with a BB (make sure you use BBs and the gun can reach a velocity of around 500 f.p.s.). Depending on the amount of stuff left in the can, you should get a fairly large sized fireball which ignites the surrounding area for a couple seconds. +-----------------------------+ | Gelled Flame Fuels, revised | +-----------------------------+ Gelled or paste type fuels are often preferable to raw gasoline for use in incendiary devices such as fire bottles. This type fuel adheres more readily to the target and produces greater heat concentration. Several methods are known for gelling gasoline using commonly available materials. These methods are divided into the following categories based on their major ingredient: 1. Lye Systems 2. Lye-Alcohol Systems 3. Soap-Alcohol Systems 4. Egg White Systems 5. Wax Systems Lye Systems ----------- Lye (also know as caustic soda or Sodium Hydroxide) can be used in combination with powdered rosin or castor oil to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces. MATERIALS REQUIRED: +----------------+-------------+------------------+---------------------------+ |Parts by Volume | Ingredients | How Used | Common Source | +----------------+-------------+------------------+---------------------------+ | 60 | Gasoline | Motor Fuel | Gas station/motor vehicle | +----------------+-------------+------------------+---------------------------+ | 2 (flake) or | Lye | Drain cleaner, | Food store or Drug store | | 1 (powder) | | making of soap | | +----------------+-------------+------------------+---------------------------+ | | Rosin | Manufactoring | Chemical supply house, | | 15 | or | Paint & Varnish | Paint store | | | Castor Oil | Medicine | Food and Drug stores | +----------------+-------------+------------------+---------------------------+ PROCEDURE --------- +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing | | the flame fuel. NO SMOKING! | +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ 1. Pour gasoline into jar, bottle or other container. (DO NOT USE AN ALUMINUM CONTAINER.) 2. IF rosin is in cake form, crush into small pieces. 3. Add rosin or castor oil to the gasoline and stir for about five minutes to mix thoroughly. 4. In a second container (NOT ALUMINUM) add lye to an equal volume of water slowly with stirring. +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | CAUTION: Lye solution can burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is | | spilled, wash away immediately with large quantities of water. | +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ 5. Add lye solution to the gasoline mix and stir until mixture thickens (about one minute). NOTE: The sample will eventually thicken to a very firm paste. This can be thinned, if desired, by stirring in additional gasoline. Lye-Alcohol Systems ------------------- Lye (aka caustic soda or Sodium Hydroxide) can be used in combination with alcohol and any of several fats to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel. MATERIALS REQUIRED: +-----------------+------------+----------------+----------------------------+ | Parts by Volume | Ingredient | | | +-----------------+------------+----------------+----------------------------+ | 60 | Gasoline | Motor Fuel | Gas station/motor vehicle | +-----------------+------------+----------------+----------------------------+ | 2 (flake) or | Lye | Drain cleaner | Food store or Drug store | | 1 (powder) | | making of soap | | +-----------------+------------+----------------+----------------------------+ | 3 | Ethyl | Whiskey | Liquor store or Drug Store | | | Alcohol | Medicine | | +-----------------+------------+----------------+----------------------------+ | 14 | Tallow | Food | Fats rendered by cooking | | | | Making of soap | the meat or suet of animals| +-----------------+------------+----------------+----------------------------+ NOTE: Methyl (wood) alcohol or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol can be substituted for ethyl alcohol, but their use produces softer gels. NOTE: The following can be substituted for the tallow: (a) Wool grease (Lanolin) (very good) -- Fat extracted from sheep wool (b) Castor Oil (good) (c) Any vegetable oil (corn, cottenseed, peanut, linseed, etc.) (d) Any fish oil (e) Butter or oleo margarine It is necessary when using substitutes (c) to (e) to double the given amount of fat and of lye for satistfactory bodying. PROCEDURE --------- +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing | | the flame fuel. NO SMOKING! | +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ 1. Pour gasoline into jar, bottle or other container. (DO NOT USE AN ALUMINUM CONTAINER.) 2. Add tallow (or substitute) to the gasoline and stir for about 1/2 minute to dissolve fat. 3. Add alcohol to the gasoline mixture. Mix thoroughly. 4. In a separate container (NOT ALUMINUM) slowly add lye to an equal volume of water. Mixture should be stirred constantly while adding lye. +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | CAUTION: Lye solution can burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is | | spilled, wash away immediately with large quantities of water. | +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ 5. Add lye solution to the gasoline mixture and stir occasionally until thickened (about 1/2 hour) NOTE: The sample will eventually (1 to 2 days) thicken to a very firm paste. This can be thinned, if desired, by stirring in additional gasoline. Soap-Alcohol System ------------------- Common household soap can be used in combination with alcohol to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces. MATERIALS REQUIRED: +----------------+-------------+----------------+---------------------------+ |Parts by Volume | Ingredients | How Used | Common Source | +----------------+-------------+----------------+---------------------------+ | 36 | Gasoline | Motor Fuel | Gas station/motor vehicle | +----------------+-------------+----------------+---------------------------+ | 1 | Ethyl | Whiskey | Liquor store | | | Alcohol | Medicine | Drug store | +----------------+-------------+----------------+---------------------------+ NOTE: Methyl (wood) alcohol or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol can be substituted for ethyl alcohol. 20 (powdered) or Laundry soap Washing clothes Stores 28 (flake) NOTE: Unless the word "soap" actually appears somewhere on the container or wrapper, a washing compound is probably a detergent. THESE CAN NOT BE USED. PROCEDURE --------- +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing | | the flame fuel. NO SMOKING! | +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ 1. If bar soap is used, carve into thin flakes using a knife. 2. Pour Alcohol and gasoline into a jar, bottle or other container and mix thoroughly. 3. Add soap powder or flakes to gasoline-alcohol mix and stir occasionally until thickened (about 15 minutes). Egg System ---------- The white of any bird egg can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel. MATERIALS REQUIRED: ------------------ +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ | Parts by Volume | Ingredient | How Used | Common Source | +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ | 85 | Gasoline | Motor Fuel | Gas station/motor vehicle | +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ | 14 | Egg Whites | Food | Food store, farms | +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ Any one of the following +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ | 1 | Table Salt | Food, indust. | Sea Water, Natural brine, | | | | processes | Food stores | +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ | 3 | Coffee | Food | Food store | +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ | 3 | Dried Tea | Food | Food store | | | Leaves | | | +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ | 3 | Cocoa | Food | Food store | +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ | 2 | Sugar | Food | Food store | +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ | 1 | Saltpeter | Pyrotechnics | Drug store | | | (Niter) | Explosives | chemical supply store | | | (Potassium | Matches | | | | Nitrate) | Medicine | | +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ | 1 | Epsom salts| Medicine | Drug store, food store | | | | industrial | | | | | processes | | +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ | 2 |Washing soda|Washing cleaner| Food store | | | (Sal soda) | Medicine | Drug store | | | | Photography | Photo supply store | +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ | 1 1/2 | Baking soda| Baking | Food store | | | | Manufactoring:| Drug store | | | | Beverages | | | | | Mineral waters| | | | | Medicine | | +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ | 1 1/12 | Aspirin | Medicine | Drug store | | | | | Food store | +-----------------+------------+---------------+----------------------------+ PROCEDURE --------- +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing | | the flame fuel. NO SMOKING! | +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ 1. Separate egg white from yolk. This can be done by breaking the egg into a dish and carefully removing the yolk with a spoon. +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | NOTE: DO NOT GET THE YELLOW EGG YOLK MIXED INTO THE EGG WHITE. If the egg | | yolk gets into the egg white, discard the egg. | +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ 2. Pour egg white into a jar, bottle, or other container and add gasoline. 3. Add the salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir occasionally until gel forms (about 5 to 10 minutes). NOTE: A thicker flame fuel can be obtained by putting the capped jar in hot (65 C) water for about 1/2 hour and then letting them cool to room temperature. (DO NOT HEAT THE GELLED FUEL CONTAINING COFFEE). Wax System ---------- Any of several common waxes can be used to gel gasoline. MATERIALS REQUIRED: +-----------------+-------------+----------------+---------------------------+ | Parts by Volume | Ingredients | How Used | Common Source | +-----------------+-------------+----------------+---------------------------+ | 80 | Gasoline | Motor Fuel | Gas station/motor vehicle | +-----------------+-------------+----------------+---------------------------+ | | Wax | Leather polish,| Food store, drug store, | | | (Ozocerite, | sealing wax, | department store | | | Mineral wax,| candles, | | | 20 | fossil wax, | waxed paper, | | | | ceresin wax | furniture & | | | | beeswax) | floor waxes, | | | | | lithographing. | | +-----------------+-------------+----------------+---------------------------+ PROCEDURE --------- 1. Melt the wax and pour into jar or bottle which has been placed in a hot water bath. 2. Add gasoline to the bottle. 3. When wax has completely dissolved in the gasoline, allow the water bath to cool slowly to room temperature. NOTE: If a gel does not form, add additional wax (up to 40% by volume) and repeat the above steps. If no gel forms with 40% wax, make a Lye solution by dissolving a small amount of Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) in an equal amount of water. Add this solution (1/2% by volume) to the gasoline wax mix and shake bottle until a gel forms. +----------------------------+ | American Dynamite, revised | +----------------------------+ Procedure --------- Mix 170 parts tolulene with 100 parts acid (this acid is 2 parts 70% nitric acid and 3 parts 100% sulfuric acid). Mix below 30 degrees. Set this down for 30 minutes and let it separate. Mix 100 parts mononitrotolulene with 215 parts acid (this acid is 1 part pure nitric acid and 2 parts pure sulfuric acid). Keep the temperature at 60-70 degrees while mixing slowly. Raise the temperature to 90-100 and stir for 30 minutes. Seperate the dinitrotoluene and mix 100 parts of it with 225 parts of 20% oleum (oleum is 100% sulfuric acid with 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 65 parts nitric acid). Heat at 95 degrees for 60 minutes, then at 120 degrees for 90 minutes. Separate the trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hot water. Purify the powder by soaking it in benzyne. [3] Text files: (1-19,?,Q) :