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************ Topic 6 Thu Dec 24, 1992 B.BURCH2 [B.Burch2] (Forwarded) Sub: MPS1000 PRINTER/XETEC SUPER GRAPHIX WHAT PRINTER TYPE MUST I USE WITH THE XETEC INTERFACE. I DO NOT HAVE A PRINTER MANUAL. I CAN NOT GET THE PRINTER TO WORK. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. 2 message(s) total. ************ ------------ Category 4, Topic 6 Message 1 Thu Dec 24, 1992 C128.JBEE (Forwarded) Best to set the interface to transparent and the printer to Epson mode. Someone with a MPS-1000 will have to tell you the switch settings. ------------ Category 4, Topic 6 Message 2 Sun Apr 04, 1993 R.PATERNOST2 [Ray] at 17:56 EDT Only problem is, the way that the printer works, when you use the parrallel port, it automatically assumes IBM mode, requiring IBM-style commands (different from the Epson commands) for various features. Not sure, but I think it's switchable between Epson/Commodore when using the serial interface. Best bet: Sell off one of the items (preferably the printer, and get a better, non-Commodore-interface one). ------------ ************ Topic 7 Thu Dec 03, 1992 B.CHADWICK (Forwarded) Sub: Need help with Excellerator plus drive I have an Excelerator Plus disk drive (1541 compat.) that has bit the dust. I need a schematic and component layout to effect repairs. Can anyone help?? 2 message(s) total. ************ ------------ Category 4, Topic 7 Message 1 Thu Dec 03, 1992 B.CHADWICK (Forwarded) Help! I have an "EXCELERATOR PLUS" disk drive that has decided to bite the dust. I want to repair it myself, but I need some documentation (with a schematic) to be able to do much with it. Doing the work really isn't a problem, as I have done a lot of repair of Commodore brand computers and drives for members of the local computer club that I am a member of. If anyone can help me out with a copy of a schematic and component layout, or any info about where to obtain same, I would greatly appreciate it! EMAIL me (B.CHADWICK) with info or send info or needed items to my home address: R. H. Chadwick 534 Sunbeam Rd. Lompoc, CA 93436 THANKS in advance for any and all help!! ------------ Category 4, Topic 7 Message 2 Thu Dec 03, 1992 C128.JBEE (Forwarded) Try Earl Harvey and Assc. 1409 Mill St Laramie WY 82070 307-745-7077 He repairs a lot of disk drives including 9090 HDs :) So he might have something you can use. ------------ ************ Topic 9 Mon Nov 09, 1992 T.FARRELL5 [Tacony Boy] (Forwarded) Sub: 1702 or 1084? Which is best? 3 message(s) total. ************ ------------ Category 4, Topic 9 Message 1 Mon Nov 09, 1992 T.FARRELL5 [Tacony Boy] (Forwarded) I would like to know which is better for the 64 as well as the 128D? Is there a VISUAL difference? ------------ Category 4, Topic 9 Message 2 Mon Nov 09, 1992 C128.JBEE [* Sysop *] (Forwarded) The 1702 is 40 columns, the 1084 has both 40 and 80 columns. So for use with the C-128D you need the 1084 for the 80 columns. For the forty column composite signal I think the 1702 is "brighter". ------------ Category 4, Topic 9 Message 3 Sun Apr 04, 1993 R.PATERNOST2 [Ray] at 17:59 EDT In addition to the above, the 1084(s) also supports analog RGB in addition to the Digital RGB that the 128 outputs. This means that should you ever move to the Amiga platform, you can use the monitor with it. (You'd need to buy a special cord for it, if the monitor didn't come with it.) ------------ ************ Topic 10 Thu May 07, 1992 M.MINNIG (Forwarded) Sub: 128D CPU Soldered or socketed? 8 message(s) total. ************ ------------ Category 4, Topic 10 Message 1 Thu May 07, 1992 M.MINNIG (Forwarded) Can someone who's opened his/her 128D recently remember if the CPU chip (8502?) is socketed (I hope,I hope!) or soldered directly to the board ( :< )? ------------ Category 4, Topic 10 Message 2 Fri May 08, 1992 C128.JBEE [* Sysop *] (Forwarded) From doing repairs on many C-128Ds, I say you have a 30/70 chance. Some are, some are not. What I could not believe was that the 6526s are soldered vs. socketed on the C-128D. ------------ Category 4, Topic 10 Message 3 Sat Jun 13, 1992 J.PEEPLES (Forwarded) I've got an old flat C128. Nearly EVERYTHING is soldered in, including the 8502 and Z80-A CPU's. ((sigh)) ------------ Category 4, Topic 10 Message 4 Wed Jun 17, 1992 R.KNOP1 [Rob Knop] (Forwarded) Hmmm.... oddly enough, the 8510 (or is it an 8502? I can never remember that!) on my flat 128 is socketed. May be because I have an oldish 128. (Not first-run, but old enough that it came with an older, R7 VDC chip. Of course, once Richard Curcio got ahold of my 128, it doesn't look much like it used to!) The Z80A is soldered to the board, however. -Rob ------------ Category 4, Topic 10 Message 5 Wed Jun 17, 1992 C128.JBEE [* Sysop *] (Forwarded) Close to first run if it has a R7 chip! ------------ Category 4, Topic 10 Message 6 Wed Jun 17, 1992 HOWIE-CBM (Forwarded) The R7 in my flat seemed to do fine until the newest version of RSCards was released. That was what got me to upgrade to R9-B. A Richard Curcio upgrade is going to have to be next. :) Especialy when I keep hearing all these good things about it from Rob and JBEE... Howie ------------ Category 4, Topic 10 Message 7 Wed Jun 17, 1992 R.KNOP1 [Rob Knop] (Forwarded) What prompted me to get a R9 chip was Dialogue128. The intro screen would sometimes lose a byte with the R7 chip, meaning the rest of the screen from there down was shifted one to the left. This I could live with. However, sometimes a byte or two would be lost when the character set was downloaded, and that would mean that many of the characters would be shifted up in their 8 byte cell on the screen. This got very annyoing. Upgrading to the R9 chip seemed to fix it. (I was lucky too - didn't have to buy the chip. I just stole the one from the 128 I keep at my parents' house, and gave them the R7, since they'll probably never notice.) I also noticed some problems with GEOS - little blips on the screen, that sort of thing. Never anything serious, though. At first, the R9 chip got rid of those, although I've started to see them again. (Not as frequently as I did with the R7 chip, though.) -Rob ------------ Category 4, Topic 10 Message 8 Thu Jun 18, 1992 C128.JBEE [* Sysop *] (Forwarded) If you had problems, it disappeared, and then reappears again I would check the power supply or my surge protector. The VDC in the flat C-128 is very sensitive to overvoltage and surges. Not sure why exactly ... ------------ ************ Topic 11 Thu Dec 12, 1991 D.VIOLINO (Forwarded) Sub: C64 Hardware Problems Any and all hardware problems on the C64 and 64C. 56 message(s) total. ************ ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 1 Thu Dec 12, 1991 D.VIOLINO (Forwarded) I have 3 C64 and 4 1541. 2 of the C64 work but have problems and 2 of the 1541 work. I need some help in narrowing down the problems with the C64. I am planning to order 1 of the kits offered by Grapevine in the Dec. 1991 issue of RUN. But I have noidea as to which will supply me with the parts I need. The first C64's cursor will start running across the screen leaving characters in its trail.This usually happens after the C64 has been running a while. The 2nd C64 screen will start to roll and flicker vertically .Also there is some poping noise.This usually starts no more than 5 minutes after the machine has been on. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 2 Thu Dec 12, 1991 C128.JBEE [* Sysop *] (Forwarded) Best thing to do is get the Quick Reference Sheet for repairs and the service manual. Then using a voltmeter and logic probe test the boards against the specs. This will end up being cheaper than just buying repair kits. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 3 Wed Dec 25, 1991 R.PATERNOST2 [Ray] (Forwarded) Also, be sure that your power supplies are working right, especially if they are the old brick type that came with the machine. Those things are notorious for making the computer do strange things when they start to go out. Also, if you do wind up having to replace a chip or two, I've found that after repairing over 15 keyboards, the most common chip to replace is the PLA, following by the 6567 video chip. Hope this helps. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 4 Wed Jan 15, 1992 D.VIOLINO [Silvermane] (Forwarded) Thanks for the info.If I need anymore info I'll get back to you. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 5 Wed Jan 22, 1992 C.KALLAS (Forwarded) I just really thought about this, but why are my programs not completely up the screen? Charlie ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 6 Thu Jan 23, 1992 C.KALLAS (Forwarded) I don't know what I just said but what I meant was why do some programs not completely take advantage of the entire monitor screen? Charlie ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 7 Thu Jan 23, 1992 C128.JBEE [* Sysop *] (Forwarded) Probably because they are not written properly. Some programs like Paperclip III, Dialouge 128, etc let you use the whole screen and even interlaced 80x50 screens. Sometimes if you have a C-128 with only 16K video ram you can not use all the features in a program, but if you have 64K you can. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 8 Mon Mar 09, 1992 T.FEELEY1 [Wolfster] (Forwarded) One of the CHIPS went bad in my old 64, how do I tell which one? When I find the bad chip, where do I purchase it? I should say what's wrong with the computer,sorry. :) Well...I turn on the computer,little red light goes on,disk whirs, .........................no blue screen?!? Could be the ROM? If so where can I purchase a ROM chip? Wolfster ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 9 Tue Mar 10, 1992 H.HOMEIER1 [Harold] (Forwarded) You might want to check your fuse inside your C64. It is a small 1.5A fuse that you can just replace and the blue screen should come up. Harold ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 10 Wed Mar 11, 1992 T.FEELEY1 [Wolfster] (Forwarded) Nope,it aint the fuse. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 11 Sat Mar 14, 1992 J.PARISH3 (Forwarded) It most likely can be narrowed down to one of three chips. the 6510 micro processor, the VIC chip or the PLA. To be sure you need to chip the chip levels on the pins. If you need some additional help get to me on E-mail as I don't visit in here often. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 12 Wed Mar 18, 1992 T.FEELEY1 [Wolfster] (Forwarded) It is all fix now.... It was the 2984(?) chip. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 13 Mon May 04, 1992 D.BARR2 (Forwarded) My neighbor has problems with his 1541 drives. When the system is turned on he can't get a ready on the screen unless he shuts off the drives. Then he gets a ready, turns the drives back on but they do nothing. He has a power light but no response. Not the computer, checked against my system. Definitely the drives. Any ideas? ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 14 Tue May 05, 1992 HOWIE-CBM (Forwarded) Well, the first thing I'd do is to clean *ALL* the connectors and sockets on the serial bus. Even those that might not have anything to do with the computer or 1541. Often a build-up of erosion (or is it corrosion?), well whatever it is, it can often cause the probs you describe, and not allow devices to talk to each other. Howie ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 15 Tue May 05, 1992 M.DULSKI1 [Mark @WIZARD] (Forwarded) Erosion you get from continually plugging and unplugging connectors. Corrosion is when they just sit there and oxidize(rust). thhrupppp ;p (; ▐▐Mark▐▐ :D ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 16 Thu May 07, 1992 HOWIE-CBM (Forwarded) Thanks Mark! Corrosion was what I was referring to. Now all I have to do is to remember: "An erosion a day will keep corrosion away..." :) Howie ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 17 Fri May 08, 1992 M.DULSKI1 [Mark @WIZARD] (Forwarded) ::choke::cough::cough:: "An erosion a day ..." ::groan:: ;D ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 18 Sun May 10, 1992 CBM-ED [e.g.bell] (Forwarded) Also keep in mind fast loader carts. They can cause exactly what you describe when they get old. I know, cuz mine has done that. I still use it, but frequent removal/insertions has made the contacts a little sensitive. When I turn on my C128, sometimes the drives light up, but never go off. That is what traced the problem to. Used to have some quirky drive problems with one of my drives if I was using a fast load and my Seikosha printer was turned on. Go figure. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 19 Fri Jul 10, 1992 B.ENNIS1 (Forwarded) I have a 1541 that has a strange and unusual problem. When I turn it on the drive light comes on and the drive seems to work, but when I put a disk in and try to bring up the directory the drive light comes on, but the drive motor doesn't. Then the light flickers and finally gives me an error. What's causing this? ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 20 Fri Jul 10, 1992 C128.JBEE [* Sysop *] (Forwarded) Sounds like an out of alignment drive. Either that or your drive head is dirty. Have you tried formatting a new disk? Can you read the directory after you do? ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 21 Sat Jul 18, 1992 G.BIRECKI3 (Forwarded) I've been having problems with my keyboard. does anybody know how to clean one. Should I use alcohol and a q-tip. Also, how do I get around the shift lock connectors. I hve a ten year old c-64, so this problems been going on for quite a while,and it's been getting worse lately. Eric ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 22 Sat Jul 18, 1992 C128.JBEE [* Sysop *] (Forwarded) Alcohol and a Q-Tip will do fine. You have to disconnect the shift/lock connectors by unsoldering them. If you heat up the solder and slide the little loop up with a pair of tweezers you can avoid desoldering them. Put them back the same way! Just don't let the soldering iron sit too long on any one piece (use a heat sink) or the plastic compentents will begin to melt. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 23 Sat Jul 18, 1992 CBM-ED [e.g.bell] (Forwarded) I can make one other suggestion for cleaning your keyboard. I did the alcohol part, but I had to go back in. When you take it apart, like JBEE said, fill your kitchen sink with warm soapy water. Drop the part with the actual keys into the water and scrub the bottom very well. You will have to push the keys down to make sure the brush or whatever you use makes good contact with the rubber legs that the keys push down. When you are done, rinse the keyboard out and then use a hair dryer to dry it out. I also put mine on the furnace duct and turned up the thermostat (did it in the middle of our Pennsylvania winter) to make SURE it was completely dry. I left it like that for a whole day. Some people feel this will contribute to rust, but my keyboard has worked perfectly for a long time now with this treatment with no bad side effects. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 24 Sun Jul 19, 1992 G.BIRECKI3 (Forwarded) Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it. One other thing, does anyone know of any problems the early 64's had with their clocks? mine won't flip the minutes when the seconds do. It's like that in programs like geos also. Have I just learned how to read clocks wrong, or is there something wrong? Thanks again! :) Eric ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 25 Mon Jul 20, 1992 CBM-ED [e.g.bell] (Forwarded) Your GEOS mention threw me a curve on what I originally had in mind, but I'll try anyway. Is the program you are having trouble with one of your own. We'll ignore GEOS for the moment. If so, when you set the time you cause it to latch, and it stays 'latched' until you write to the tenths- of-seconds byte. If this is *not* the problem, I would try removing cartridges and peripherals one at a time and seeing if the problem goes away. I had a Seikosha printer that caused weird things like that when used with my Mach 128, 1670, etc. Never did isolate things exactly. Just learned when to turn it on/off. >>shrug<< ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 26 Wed Jul 22, 1992 G.BIRECKI3 (Forwarded) I had the problem before I bought my modem, and the only other peripheral I have is my 1541 I have noticed the problem on any program that uses the clock. Eric ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 27 Wed Jul 22, 1992 CBM-ED [e.g.bell] (Forwarded) Then I am at a loss. I am not too technical, just know your odd little bit of this and that about a lot of difft. things, but your problem is beyond me. Seems tho that if the clock was having a problem a lot of other things would be too. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 28 Thu Jul 23, 1992 C128.JBEE [* Sysop *] (Forwarded) Most likely your CIA (6526) chip is damaged. It is possible to have the TOD (DOA;) and still have a partly functioning chip. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 29 Thu Jul 23, 1992 CBM-ED [e.g.bell] (Forwarded) That was kinda what I thought might be the case, but not knowing as much as I don't [ %-) ] I wasn't sure that you could have a problem in just one function of that chip. Well, that chip is relatively inexpensive, isn't it? If it is worth replacing just to fix a TOD clock. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 30 Fri Jul 24, 1992 C128.JBEE [* Sysop *] (Forwarded) The 6526 is about $12 more or less, depending where you buy them. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 31 Tue Sep 29, 1992 C.PEEBLES [Clinton] (Forwarded) I have a friend's Commodore 64 that won't work. The red light comes on, the TV screen has raster, but no prompt. He said for a while, if you turned it off then on a few times, it would work. I also have the Commodore 64 Programmers Reference Guide, but the last few pages, the Schematic diagram, have been torn out. Some of the chips, U23 I think is the worst, get really hot. Too hot to touch for very long. I assume these are the RAM, and as far as I know, RAM shouldn't get that hot. I checked 6510 and found some of the address lines, A8, A9, A12, A13, A14 and A15 are all high, but have no pulse. In my book it says they should all have a pulse on them (though I can't remember or find why they need the pulse) In the Reference Guide, it says the 6510 internal processor architecture is identical to the MOS Technology 6502. Does this mean they can be interchanged, or do they mean that they are backward compatable like Intels 80286, 8086? I have an old VIC 20 beater here that I don't use. If not, where might I find such a beast? ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 32 Tue Sep 29, 1992 C128.JBEE [* Sysop *] (Forwarded) The ram shouldn't get that hot. Before you go and replace drams though I would check the power supply and voltage regulator. No sense in trying to trouble shoot a computer with a bad power supply. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 33 Mon Oct 12, 1992 C.PEEBLES [Clinton] (Forwarded) The power supply seems OK. What I need is the schamatic diagram for this thing. I have one for the VIC20, but the page in the 64 book got ripped out. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 34 Tue Oct 13, 1992 C128.JBEE [* Sysop *] (Forwarded) For PCB ASS #250469-01 I show U23 as 74LS14 (standard industry #) 901521-30 (Commodore #) Does that fit the bill? ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 35 Sat Nov 14, 1992 M.BARNETT4 [BUBBA] (Forwarded) Does anybody have a schematic for the '64 power supply, mine seems to have died. thanks Bubba ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 36 Sun Nov 15, 1992 C128.JBEE [* Sysop *] (Forwarded) Unless you repair power supplies all the time or are well versed in that type of thing I strongly recommend that you don't attempt to repair it. A badly repaired power supply is dangerous and a fire hazard. Also, at $35 for a HD 4.3 amp power supply it is usually cheaper to buy one than repair one. Especially if you only have a 1.8 amp (inexpensive) one now. You can order schematics from Grapevine Group (they advertise in RUN) or from Earl Harvey (highly recommended) at 1-307-745-7077. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 37 Fri Nov 27, 1992 M.BARNETT4 [BUBBA] (Forwarded) Help. I've had 2 '64s die on me in 2 months. Well my family's C=64 died last month. Mine died this month. These computers are 600 miles apart so I don't think it's contagious.:) However the symtoms are the same. Turn the switch on, the computers LED comes on and the drive spins (and the drive LED comes on momentarily). Just like normal. But nothing further happens. I've played with these things for about 10 years, but never had to personally fix one before. Is there anything I can do? Can someone recommend a good fixit shop? Thanx. Bubba (BTW I have desoldered and replaced a chip in my Amiga so I'm not afraid to try) ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 38 Fri Nov 27, 1992 CBM-ED [e.g.bell] (Forwarded) Try disconnecting everything from the computer BUT the monitor and see if it happens like that still. And by everything, include cartridges also. ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 39 Fri Nov 27, 1992 C128.JBEE (Forwarded) re:good fix-it place Earl Harvey and Assc. 1409 Mill St Laramie WY 82070 307-745-7077 ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 40 Sat Nov 28, 1992 F.OGLE [Color 64 BBS] (Forwarded) Always, ALWAYS! Test the power supply ZFIRST, especially if it's one of the cheezy originals provided by Commodore (they are "epoxy'd" , and look and feel like lethal weapons <<grin>>... Here is the pinout; x=non-essential pins. They may not even be on your power supply o=essential pins. There are only 4, 2=9VAC, 2=5VDC. Keyway at top Pin #7 - 9VAC----------> o o <--Pin #6 - 9VAC Pin #1 - To Ground-----> x x <--Pin #3 - To Ground Pin #4 - To Ground-----> x o <--Pin #5 - +5VDC Pin #2 - To Ground-----> o Again, note that pins 1, 3, and 4 aren't even necessary. Also, please excuse the crudeness of my art. :) Fred Ogle ------------ Category 4, Topic 11 Message 41 Sat Nov 28, 1992 C128.JBEE (Forwarded) Thank you for the excellent reply :) ------------