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klr650-digest        Monday, September 20 1999        Volume 02 : Number 911



Re: (klr650) Ignition Advancer
Re: (klr650) Cleaning the rear rim
Re: (klr650) Hard Panniers
Re: (klr650) Chain Cleaning, warm enough?
Re: (klr650) Flippin' Sprockets
Re: (klr650) (UK Mainly) Top Box Recommendation?
Re: (klr650) Acerbis Rally Hand Guards
RE: (klr650) NKLR calling klr650 eh team
Re: (klr650) Muffler Mod News (NKLR)
Re: (klr650) Acerbis Rally Hand Guards
(klr650) Accident
(klr650) CanAm Rallye
Re: (klr650) Accident

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 15:32:52 -0600
From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Ignition Advancer

.................Ted stated...........

>> If you are keen, or know a machine shop that is keen, you could put
>> some extra holes in both the sprockets and the shafts at certain
>> intervals so that you could have a simple vernier adjustment.
>> For example, you could have 9 holes on the cam and maybe 10 holes
>> on the sprocket, degree intervals that would be not to hard to index.
>> (I got this idea out of Phil Irving's "Tuning for Speed" book.
>> Although this book was written back in the days of Norton singles and
>> stuff, our bikes are none too different: single cylinder, roller
>> bottom end with built up crank etc.)
>>
>> Or, if you wanted to keep it simple, it shouldn't be super difficult
>> for a machinist to just slot the hole in the sprocket.



............Jeff replied...........................
>I would think that this would increase the stresses in the sprocket,
>especially intensively around the new holes, or around the existing hole in
>the sprocket, which could result in stress cracks.  The sprocket isn't
>subject to extreme torques, but the torque it receives is pulsed, and I
have
>seen camshaft sprockets crack before where they bolt onto the camshaft.
>Jeff
>


 Darn you guys, I was waiting till I finished and had some testing done but
since this seems to be a subject with some interest...
    I`m in the middle of machining an ignition advancer that is slotted and
indexed to be adjustable. I actually got the idea from seeing one on a
friends ZX6R. I called Factory in Calif. to see if they had one that would
fit the KLR650, nada. So I figured I would make my own for the fun of it.
They`re actually a pretty simple device and  more desirable than slotting my
cam sprocket, although I would try Ted`s idea if I hadn`t seen the
adjustable ignition advancer. I won`t be able to finish till things slow
down around here though.

Skip


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 15:39:44 -0600
From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cleaning the rear rim

>
>I asked this same question when I purchased my KLR this summer.  The
>majority of responses stated best success with using kerosene or Simple
>Green.
>
>My experience showed that the kerosene was necessary to get the really
>stubborn chain lube and grime off.  The full strength Simple Green was fine
>for normal mud and dirt but didn't really do much better than regular soap
>and water.
>
>Mark
>A13
>


I`ve been using Castrol Super Clean. We switched to this at work for
degreasing engines, since it`s solvent free and biodegradable. Diluted 50/50
with water, the sludge will usually just run of with the hose, no wiping
necessary. It does affect some painted surfaces if left on to long and not
rinsed. This stuff is really strong and can be bought at any parts store or
Wal-Mart type stores.

Skip


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 15:52:57 -0600
From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Hard Panniers

......................................>snip<................................
.......

>In a message on 13 Sept 99,  Matt wrote that he was looking for the
>cheapest lockable store-bought hard bag possible.
>
>The cheapest way I have found is to use Pelican Cases (World's Toughest
>Watertight Equipment Cases) with Dave "Jake" Jakeman's mounting
>brackets.  The whole set up can be had for less than $500.00.  Jake has
>been using these on his own KLR for a few years and has never had a
>problem with them.
>............................................>snip<.........................
.......
>Rodger, A3
>


     I like Pelican cases. I`ve used them for cameras and such when rafting
and canoeing. The reason I prefer the aluminum panniers over them is that I
like top loading and  aluminum panniers of comparable size are actually the
same weight or less, especially Touratecs. My racks and AL panniers from Tim
were under $500.
   Cabela`s has horse panniers of similar dimensions to Al panniers, made of
similar material of the Pelicans, that are top loading and cost around $79 a
pair. All you need do is install some type of latch and you`re ready to go.
I saw a pair while elk hunting last weekend and they looked pretty good. I
didn`t get a chance to check them out though, as the guy that had them was
passing us on a trail and looked in a hurry.

Skip



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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 16:04:15 -0600
From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Chain Cleaning, warm enough?

Some of us have read or heard O-Ring chain company reps tell us all we need
to lube our chains is WD-40; I, for one, will try their advice for the life
of my present chain. Should we also rethink the old rule that states that
one should only lube the chain when it's warm (after a ride)? That obviously
made sense when the priority was to penetrate the chains innards with oil.
That isn't a requirement with an O-Ring (or a nose ring but I digress). All
we're doing is making the solvent evaporate faster which is neither good nor
bad. Does a warm chain get clean better? Maybe, but I doubt it's
significant. Thoughts? Bogdan, Who sometimes sets & thinks and sometimes
just sets.


  I would think that a warm chain would be better for cleaning, to help
soften and loosen the sludge. I clean engines warm and rinse with warm water
, works a lot better than when they`re cold. As for lubing, a warm chain
would be better if you`re using a viscous product ( would help it penetrate)
but I don`t know if there would be enough thermal expansion of the links to
prevent the lube from penetrating adequately. As the chain is heated up,
mighten the tolerances tighten up? Or does the chain not heat up enough for
this to be a factor?

Skip



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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 18:18:57 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Flippin' Sprockets

In a message dated 9/17/99 9:25:56 AM, [e-mail] writes:

<<To be honest, I've never thought
about flipping the sprockets over.  There is no offset on the pre 96
sprockets so I think it is doable. Something about it seems wrong, though.
Any thoughts?>>

May have some chain hang-up on deceleration
- -neil

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 18:25:47 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) (UK Mainly) Top Box Recommendation?

In a message dated 9/18/99 1:24:55 PM, [e-mail] writes:

<<Anyone have a recommendation for a decent top box for
a UK '99 KLR650, which is reasonably easily available
in the UK?
>>

Yes, my top box is a Pelican case, available at a photo or scuba store and it
is slightly larger than the rear rack. I used longer bolts than the rack uses
and used the rack holes. i also sawed off the handle from the case
- -neil

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 18:27:34 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Acerbis Rally Hand Guards

In a message dated 9/19/99 12:31:15 PM, [e-mail] writes:

<<Has anyone tried these?
Are they any easier/harder to mount?  Do they do as good/better/worse
job of keeping stuff off your hands and keeping your hands out of the
wind.  I mostly use my KLR for commuting and occasionally some light duty
fire roads.  Any help is appreciated
kd>>

The best in my opinion are the maier woods pro, I'll send a picture.

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 18:43:50 -0700
From: Russell Scott <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR calling klr650 eh team

One time at Disneyland I was standing in a loooong line for the log ride =

with my family, and low and behold, Dwight Shultz (AKA Murdoch) and his=20
fianc=E9e where directly in front of us.  And as is usually the case, =
just=20
your average Joe who happens to be famous.  Real down to earth guy, who=20
would never blow up anybody or anything, unless it meant getting the =
part.=20
 Then an actor will do just about ANYTHING.

Russel'r  Kaw Pow

- -----Original Message-----
From:    Arne Larsen
Sent:    Sunday, September 19, 1999 4:08 AM
To:    Ted Palmer; klr650
Subject:    Re: (klr650) NKLR calling klr650 eh team

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
To: klr650 <[e-mail]>
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 1999 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR calling klr650 eh team


> Arne Larsen wrote:
> [...]
> > Amongst the Eh Team I know (Murdoch, Mr T, and myself) we're running =

two
> > trapps and a Gun...
>
> That can't be me you're talking about, my B1 Bomber still runs the
> original 1985 exhaust, Farting Budgie et al.
> You'd think the FB would die of old age, but they made them tough
> back then.
>
> Mister_T


Nope... The MR T I'm talking about played a character called "BJ=20
Barrackus".
There was also 'Face", "Murdoch", and George Peppard's character=20
"Hannible".
The name of the old show was called "The A Team", and they used to save =
the
day and blow shit up on a continual basis.  The funny thing about it =
though
was that for all the explosions, bombings, automatic weapons, etc..  no =
one
ever got hurt.

Arne (Face)


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 19:28:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: k man <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Muffler Mod News (NKLR)

Yeah intended, I should have said eh-cord though I
guess!

Kevin

- --- Arne Larsen <[e-mail]> wrote:
> Subject: Re: (klr650) Muffler Mod News (NKLR)
>
>
> > You guys should take this off list and settle it
> of
> > your own accord.
> >
> > Kevin
>
> Pun intended?  I think so - but just in case it's
> not, that's what the NKLR
> in the subject line is for.  It allows these
> discussions that are
> non-klr-topical to be filtered out.
>
> Arne
>
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
> http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
> Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to
> [e-mail] for info.
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 22:38:18 -0700
From: "DobeMan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Acerbis Rally Hand Guards

    I've been using BarkBusters with UFO handguards over top.  Very beefy
setup.  Some people just use the BarkBusters as-is with no handcovers, to
each their own.  While I was riding in a forest a few weeks ago, we came
across one of the riding schools having a break and all their bikes have
BarkBusters so that says something about them.
    They took some fiddling to get on properly, but they fit well and I'm
sure the setup is stronger than my handlebars themselves.  I've fallen over
a couple of times since I put them on and obviously no damage to my levers.
I've also hit some tree branches somewhat hard and haven't suffered any
damage whatsoever.  The stock handguards broke instantly on me and are
nothing more than wind deflectors.

Karl

> I've heard people talk about these as replacements to the (rather
> weak) stock hand guards.  I also remember that they can be a pain
> in the butt to get on around the brake master cylinder.  Moose makes
> aluminum hand guards with plastic spoilers.  Has anyone tried these?
> Are they any easier/harder to mount?  Do they do as good/better/worse
> job of keeping stuff off your hands and keeping your hands out of the
> wind.  I mostly use my KLR for commuting and occasionally some light duty
> fire roads.  Any help is appreciated
> kd




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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 20:47:48 -0700
From: Adam Stahnke <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Accident

I never thought the car vs. '93 KLR would take place in the parking lot
at work, but it did, today as a matter of fact.  Someone backed into it,
pushing it approximately 12 inches before stopping.  The side stand held
the bike up, but it looks like a piece of spaghetti.

Here is another question for you.  I had the steering lock on and a
u-lock on, securing the front wheel and fork (yeah, I'm paraniod).  I am
hesitant to ride it because of what could be out of whack up front.  Any
ideas?  I came up with rim, spokes, fork, bearings, wheel balance, and
brakes.  Thanks.

- -Adam (was having a good weekend) S.


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 23:49:54 -0600
From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) CanAm Rallye

Vik,
   If you end up doing a rally on your side of the border and are interested
in an excursion just south of you, I`ve gotten several hundred miles of on
and off road rides through the mountains mapped out that I`ve been working
on this summer in anticipation of a CanAm Rally
like we were talking about earlier this spring. Most are forest service
roads and trails with many around the Bob Marshall Wilderness area and
Glacier/Waterton Park. Snow would be available anytime of the summer.
   I`ve also mapped out several hundred miles of backroad(asphalt) rides
that are very scenic. Several rides available regardless of skill level.
Half of my miles this summer ended up in B.C. and western Alberta.
    It looks like you may be centering the rides above the border, but if
you dip down in the Rockies of Montana, let me know if I can be of help. I`m
not but a few hours from your area or Arne`s.

Skip


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 02:39:20 -0700
From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Accident

From: Adam Stahnke <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Accident


> Here is another question for you.  I had the steering lock on and a
> u-lock on, securing the front wheel and fork (yeah, I'm paraniod).  I am
> hesitant to ride it because of what could be out of whack up front.  Any
> ideas?  I came up with rim, spokes, fork, bearings, wheel balance, and
> brakes.  Thanks.
>
> -Adam (was having a good weekend) S.

Glad to hear the driver never ran right over it...

As for the damage, about the only way you will know is to block the bike up
and spin the front wheel testing the various suspect components.  Do the
forks compress fine?  The brake still engages and releases with no fluid
leaks?  Steering head bearing?  Front wheel looks true when spinning?  The
other thing to do is just ride it and see how it feels...  Start slow and
check things out.

The bike's pretty tough.  If all that happened was it got pushed 12", and
not slammed into hard, I doubt any damage was sustained.  If everything
looks fine visually, then it probably is.

Arne


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------------------------------

End of klr650-digest V2 #911
****************************