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klr650-digest          Monday, March 6 2000          Volume 02 : Number 1530



Re: (klr650) 97 KLR650 Service Manuals - Help
Re: (klr650) cross-country trip! advice?
(klr650) NKLR Back from the races
(klr650) Break In Proceudres
RE: (klr650) 97 KLR650 Service Manuals - Help
Re: (klr650) Kilimanjaro
RE: (klr650) RE: windshields
RE: (klr650) Good Covers for the KLR
(klr650) cross-country trip! advice?
RE: (klr650) cross-country trip! advice?
RE: (klr650) 97 KLR650 Service Manuals - Help
RE: (klr650) rusty rotors
(klr650) muffler

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 08:07:02 -0700
From: "Verle Nelson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) 97 KLR650 Service Manuals - Help

From: "Ron Criswell" <[e-mail]>

> I just did my first valve adjustment and removed the cam chain tensioner
device
> and from what you say, I don't really need to do this? I just lifted the
cams
> as you state (exhaust was all that needed adjustment). I have an A12 '98.

I spent a lot of time puzzling over why I should remove the cam chain
tensioner bolt, spring and washer, as the instructions stated. Later,
Someone on this list said it was only necessary on older (pre'96 or '97?)
models.

> From: "Robert E. Faircloth, D.M.D." <[e-mail]>
>
> You DO need to remove the cam chain tension bolt on a 1999.
> If you don't, the cam chain can tighten up when you lift the right
> side of the cams.  I forgot to do so the last time I use in there,
> and had to remove the complete tensioner to reset it.  You do
> not need to remove the cams.

The above explanation sounds good. Now I've heard it both ways. I think I
will continue to remove the bolt and spring.

Verle Nelson ([e-mail])
'97 R1100R
'99 KLR650
Cedaredge, CO USA


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Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 15:19:33 GMT
From: "zootpatutie ." <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) cross-country trip! advice?

cold fingers are my challenge below 32 here. grip heaters help tho.
todd
A9


>
>i do have a good suit, but no heated elements. i got layers, and i
>can take it! i do worry about my hands though.
>
>thanks!
>
>scott
>

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Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 10:21:03 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Back from the races

Well gang, I'm back from my first MTB race.  Actually placed 3rd in my age category!  This MTB stuff can be lots of fun although a bit scary at times.

By the by, I sucked a 100oz CamelBak dry through the course of a 15.5 mile race.  The CamelBak is a must for any offroad rider, motorized or not.

Gino

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Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 10:59:05 -0600
From: "John Hubbard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Break In Proceudres

La List,

as many of you know, I got my 2000 KLR last week. I had posted a question
about break in and got lots of interesting feedback. I have a friedn who is
a techo-knob and he had these observations that I thought you knobs would
find of interest.

- -------------------
Hey Thumper:

Unfortunently you are going to have to curb your desire to spray gravel into
farmers fields.  I remember talking to Rick Andrews (late local bike guru)
about this a couple of years ago.  He pointed out that bike engines are not
factory broken-in, like all new car/trucks.  The recommendations in the
owners manual seem like overkill, but should be followed.  You are playing
the part of final metal finish and dyno time.

In addition, the idea that you need to push the engine and load/redline it
to produce a strong pulling engine is an URBAN LEGEND!  The break-in period
for a race engine is constrained by time (Track mileage) and the need to
know if the engine will blow do to poor workmanship.

The important thing to remember is to use regular oil for the whole break-in
period.  This is vital to allow the piston rings to seat properly against
the cylinder walls.  Racers are simply pushing this procedure by increasing
the RPM's and loads, however, the engine will not last as long in the bottom
end because if the main bearing stress. (Remember you rebuild race engines
every 3 years)

Finally, you will get the best results for long life and good performance if
you;
A. Use conventional Oil for your complete break-in.
B. Switch to Synthetic after you have completed 3500km
C. Don't stress the engine to early, you'll reduce the life of the bottom
end!

I hope this is what you were looking for.

Poul


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 09:20:02 -0700
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) 97 KLR650 Service Manuals - Help

> >
> > You DO need to remove the cam chain tension bolt on a 1999.
> > If you don't, the cam chain can tighten up when you lift the right
> > side of the cams.  I forgot to do so the last time I use in there,
> > and had to remove the complete tensioner to reset it.  You do
> > not need to remove the cams.
>
> The above explanation sounds good. Now I've heard it both ways. I think I
> will continue to remove the bolt and spring.


There are a couple of points that need to be clarified. First, in the
instructions on the website Elden says to remove the bolt and washer before
you remove the valve cover. That is because there is apparently "a slipper"
that engages the valve cover and can cause premature tightening. I haven't
had an older model to examine so I'm just guessing here.

The rest is clearer and easier. Arne is right on the late models without the
slipper you do not need to remove the bolt and washer to simply check the
valves. And here is the next point of confusion. If you do need to adjust
the valves you do need to remove the bolt and washer but...you do not need
to remove the entire balancer assembly which is the mistake a lot of folks
make.

Kurt


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 10:44:39 -0800
From: =?Windows-1252?Q?Jose_Luis_V=E1zquez_Gaytan?= <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Kilimanjaro

Fred, and all,
                   I am about to order a Kili jacket, but now this po=
sts
made me doubt about the size, I do have a leather jacket from firstge=
ar, 40
size summer  S-pilot jacket, it fits me very snug, when the jacket co=
mes an
advertisement card tag comes with it, saying if I want a loose fit mu=
st I
choose a size up, but due the difficulties for back orders, I decided=
 to
keep the jacket , now I don't want the same situation, but seems to m=
e like
the Kilimanjaro is true sized, at least from your chart.
I would like to read any opinion on this prior my order.
Thanks in advance guys.
regards.
J Luis V=E1zquez Gayt=E1n
Puerto Vallarta, M=E9xico
- ----- Original Message -----
=46rom: Fred Hink <[e-mail]>
To: Robert E. Faircloth, D.M.D. <[e-mail]>; KLR=
650
List <[e-mail]>
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2000 12:58 PM
Subject: Re: (klr650) Kilimanjaro


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert E. Faircloth, D.M.D." <[e-mail]=
>
> To: "KLR650 List" <[e-mail]>
> Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2000 9:10 AM
> Subject: (klr650) Kilimanjaro
>
>
> Any lister know of an online dealer, besides Kiernan Racing Supplie=
s and
> Motorcycle Accessories, that sell Kilimanjaro jackets mail-order, o=
r know
> were to find info on sizes?  What is a XXLarge or XXXLarge?  I've e=
mailed
> Kiernan (twice) and Firstgear about sizes with no reply.
>
> Robert
> A13
>
>
> Hello Robert,
>
> I happen to sell lots of Killimanjaro jackets.  You can check out m=
y
First
> Gear Sizing Chart at...
> http://www.angelfire.com/ut/fred/images/FirstGearSizeChart.jpg
>
> Let me know if I can get you a jacket.
>
> Fred
>
>
>
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
> http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=3Dklr650
> Support Dual Sport News... [e-mail]
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> to [e-mail]
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> Let's keep this List SPAM free.
>



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 10:12:42 -0700
From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RE: windshields

> I took off the entire front end plastic and fashioned a very rigid and
> light weight headlight/windshield mount from aluminum.  Very functional,
> but so ugly only it's mother could love it...
>
> Tom Meagher
> Houston TX
>
Tom, From the pics I saw it didn't look ugly to me; but then I've been told
I have weird taste. More important to me, a while back you wrote that your
windshield system caused some high speed handling problems. Has this been
remedied in the most recent prototype?? Bogdan



> .

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 10:15:43 -0700
From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Good Covers for the KLR

> Does anyone know of a good cover that works well and fits well on the
> KLR-650?
>
> Any info would be great.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Rich
>
Whatever you get make sure you find a way to tie it down; they blow away
real easy. Bogdan

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 13:53:11 GMT
From: "Di or Eddie C" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) cross-country trip! advice?

>i'm packing up for a trip across america starting march 17th. i'm
>leaving garberville, california, and headed for either boston or
>washington dc.

>i'm cross-countried in my truck, but never on a bike. i could use
>advice!

My limited advice:

I have thin polypropylene glove liners and a silk balaclava from Mountain
Equipment Co-Op (Canadian).  Absolutely love them for the cold.

(This is my number one piece of advice.) Go-over the bike with an objective
friend and a bottle of lock-tite (the blue stuff, Threadlocker 242 -
removable, not the red stuff) and retighten fasteners before the trip. I
rode an XL to the east-coast from Ontario and lost parts of the bike on the
way back (footpeg, toolkit...)  Have had some losses on the KLR as well
(several exhaust fasteners).

Take a (small, pudding-sized) tupperware container full of fasteners.  This
has been one of my most valuable tools.  Take a spare H4 bulb.

My primary piece of gear is a 45 litre dry-bag (kayak bag).  It has been on
every trip I have taken (since I started biking in '92) is 100% waterproof,
and has held up tremendously!  (Other than a tank-bag, it was the only piece
of gear I had on the XL).  The Aerostich dry-bag saddle bags look awesome!
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/6164/page33.html

Have a blast!  Would love to be in your boots!
Eddie
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 10:49:00 -0700
From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) cross-country trip! advice?

> one advisory i got so far was to avoid I-80 this time of year, and
> instead to go south around the rockies. that would add several days
> to my trip, and i'm not sure i can afford that; but if the rockies
> are dangerous to a bike this time of year, let me know.i do have a good
> suit, but no heated elements. i got layers, and i
> can take it! i do worry about my hands though.
>
> thanks!
>
> scott
>
Screw the interstates. Highway 36 East of Denver to Indiana is a pleasant
road and not heavily patrolled in my experience in the Colorado, Kansas &
Missouri sections. Bogdan

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 10:51:13 -0700
From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) 97 KLR650 Service Manuals - Help

> when I did my valves all I had for a resource was the computer......which
> was the best....I don't think I would trust the Kaw manual(s) any more
> than I do the dealers they use....everything you need you already have, if
> you're on this list.
>
Disagree, The list is great but spring for the manuals. Bogdan



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 10:58:46 -0700
From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) rusty rotors

> Yeah, thanks, Gino, me too. My first thought on reading the "Run the chain
> through a kerosene soaked rag" advice was, "OK, up on the centerstand,
> into first, let 'er spin, hold the rag and touch it to the chain." Not
> bright.'Course, I'll continue to change wall outlets without popping the
> breaker...
>
>     -Spike
>
Spend $15 on the Z-Chain Oiler gizmo. You'll never have to separately clean
your chain again. I got about 20k miles on my first chain using the gadget
and gear oil; now I'm using it with WD-40. Another advantage is that it
spreads the lube evenly around the chain. Bogdan

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 18:14:46 GMT
From: "Di or Eddie C" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) muffler

Scott:

I have an older type 4" supertrapp with the external disks.  HEre are a few
objective comments:

- - the aluminum spacer that fits between the can and the frame needed to be
cut - was a little annoying

- - the bolt through this spacer is an SAE bolt, should be replaced by metric
to prevent carrying more tools than you should need - even though the nut
supplied for this bolt was a nylock, it came loose.

- - i have 18 disks in mine, it is stupid loud, but I want it that way

- - the pipe comes with 12 disks - extra disks can be ordered in packs of 6 or
12 - to install 24 disks, the 6 (or 8) hex-head cap screws that hold the
disks in would need to be longer

- - there are 6 (or 8) hex-head cap screws that hold on the back plate to
contain the disks - use neverseize on these!!!

- - use locktite on the three screws that hold the pipes back-end in the end
of the can, or the screws will leave and the whole back-end will fall out
(that is how you repack it)

- - the packing on this pipe disintegrated in only a couple months, (but I
don't care about the noise and the bike was rejetted to prevent leaning it
out)

- - i would buy the Supertrapp IDS pipe if i did it again, the external one is
not saddlebag friendly, and melts a divut into the rear fender

- - the stock exhaust is stainless steel stem to stern

- - the stock head pipe on my bike has some ugly welds on the inside - if I
had a dremel tool when I had it off it would've gotten cleaned up - this
might even show up on a dyno (it was ugly)

Best Regards
Eddie
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------------------------------

End of klr650-digest V2 #1530
*****************************