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klr650-digest        Friday, October 22 1999        Volume 02 : Number 1054



Re: (klr650) Final tips
(klr650) chain of fools
Re: (klr650) acerbis handguards
RE: (klr650) Postpartum Valve Check Inte
Re: (klr650) NKLR- The right to blather...
(klr650) Chase Harper NKLR
Re: (klr650) 1/2 Day So. CA ride?
Re: (klr650) KLR  Help!!  (oil change problems)
Re: (klr650) Cam Chain and Top End
Re: (klr650) KLR  Help!!  (oil change problems)
Re: (klr650) Anti-Seize Alternative
Re: (klr650) Postpartum Valve Check Interval
Re: (klr650) Postpartum Valve Check Interval

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 13:04:25 -0700
From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Final tips

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Final tips


> By the way...  I'm still in the hunt for the wire
> that powers the horn system.  I bought a circuit
> tester from Sears and plan on poking various
> wires while beeping the horn.  I'm wanting to
> find the portion that runs from the power source
> to the horn switch- as opposed to the one that
> runs from the switch to the horns themselves.
> Will this work?  Or is there a constant supply of
> power that runs from the power source to the horn
> switch?  Do you see where I'm trying to go with
> this?  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks in
> advance...
>
> Juan Villarreal

Not really (sorry).  If you're wanting to do what Mark did with his horn
setup, then you have to tie into the circuit after the switch, as the switch
is what opens and closes the horn relay that you'll be installing.  If
you're doing something different, then ignore what I'm saying... =^)

Cheers,

Arne
KLR650 Listmeister
Eh 13

www.mac-d.com    MAC-D Homepage



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 13:06:36 PDT
From: "Ian Curry" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) chain of fools

I should know this, but since I am the first among both family and friends
to blaze the path of two-wheeled motorized transportation, I exist in a
vacuum of motorcycle knowledge, and this list is my only source of air.

The questions concerns the chain. How do you know when it's time to change
it? I have 12,500 m on the bike (all put on in the last 7 months, thank you)
and I have heard folk say that they change their chains as often as every
14k. What are the telltale sighns of a chain on the verge of snappage?
Thanks.

Ian

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 13:12:44 -0700
From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) acerbis handguards

With the Maier Standard Handguard installed on the Woods Pro Aluminum, the
hand and levers are almost completely surrounded.  Here is a picture of the
Maiers, although I don't really did the purple color (Mine are white on my
A3):

http://www.angelfire.com/ga2/ericjazz/images/trahandesert.jpg

Jeff

> Hmmmm, I've bent 2 or 3 levers with the Acerbis; are the Maiers
> sturdier ?? Bogdan
>
> snip:=====
> I haven't seen the Acerbis, but I would really like to see a pair of
> Maier
> Woods Pro's like mine break!  Maybe your handle bar is good to take
> a fall,
> but your hands levers aren't.  I'm not sure what you mean by
> "shedding
> wind".  My Maiers do a fine job of keeping the wind off my hands and
> helping
>
> to keep my hands warm.  Expensive?  Well, around $40 for the Woods
> Pro
> aluminum, and $25 for the Maier Standard deflectors, so for $65, my
> hands
> ======
>
> i have the acerbis.  they completely protect my hands AND the
> levers.
> they've done so against trees and very hard falls thus far.  the
> left one
> also put a pretty significant bruise on my friend's arm when he
> tried to go
> around the bike on that little zippy 2stroker he was riding 8^).
>
> they have never bound up the throttle, for that guy who mentioned
> that.  i
> did cut a little off the throttle end when i installed them.
>
> _pete
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
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> for info.
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
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> Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail]
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 14:13:00 -0600
From: "Pokluda, Gino" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Postpartum Valve Check Inte

>>I have or had the following Honda's that were liquid cooled and had screw
adjustments for the valves:  1977 GL100, 1983 GL1100, & 1986 VFR750.  <<

Yea, come to think of it, My neighbors Sabre had screw valve adjusters also.
 Thanks.

Gino


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 13:26:04 -0700
From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR- The right to blather...

Hey Juan, I'm thinking that the guy might be from Canada.  That reminds me,
a few years back, I had the honor of jumping at Normandy for a re-inactment
during the 50 year anniversary.  Very moving ceremonies, to bad our
President was there to represent us.  Anyway, there is a huge Ranger history
over there, and I was moved to tears.

Jeff

> Heeey!  Now c'mon, Jean, that wasn't very nice!
> So what if I have nine fingers and eleven toes,
> does that REALLY have to figure into this
> conversation?  I'm dying to find out who it was
> that spilled the beans!
>
> I think you missed the point I was trying to
> make.
>
> You can say whatever you want, in whatever
> language you want....  You're in the U.S., my
> friend!  It may not always be welcomed, but that
> doesn't matter, because the right is yours.  My
> old man (along with a few thousand other
> "uncouth" Yanks) hit Omaha Beach to ensure us
> (and you) that right.  You know, Omaha Beach?
> Normandy?  You guys are familiar with those
> names, aren't you?  I ask because my own
> experiences in France have left me wondering.  A
> source of great irony to me as I see the
> selective concern some of your countrymen show
> when it comes to France's "cultural purity" (why
> don't the Parisians ever protest in front of the
> Chinese restaurants?  Why is it only
> McDonald's?).  What the hell is their beef (pun
> intended)?  Penis envy, perhaps...  Call me
> crazy, but I think a little gratitude (or maybe
> just some courtesy and tolerance) might be in
> order...
>
> Not that it matters, really...  We're all here in
> the comfortable embrace of our "dopey,"
> "shallow," and "hedonistic" American society, and
> I wouldn't have it any other way.  Now if you'll
> excuse me, I'm off to the local Greek restaurant
> for a little cultural pollution...
>
> Juan Villarreal
>
>
> --- [e-mail] wrote:
> > O.K O.K. we will continue this discussion in
> > english. I have just one
> > question: Is it true what I heard that there
> > was a lot of inbreading going
> > on in your area?  I guess closemindedness is a
> > side effect.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>
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> http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 13:22:41 -0700
From: Richard Ohnstad <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Chase Harper NKLR

With all the posts about unhappy consumer experiences, I thought I'd =
share a happy one.

In 1994, I purchased a set of Chase Harper Dual Sport saddle bags.  =
Since then, I've used them for about 5,000 miles of riding, about 1000 =
of these miles were off-road. =20

The last time I used them, I went through a section of the Anchra =
Wilderness where it took me about 6 hours to go 70 miles, and the =
temperature was between 85 & 95F.  After this, the exhaust side was =
pretty well fried - the inner plastic panels very distorted and the =
aluminized fabric ripped.

I sent them back to Chase Harper & asked them to honor their warranty =
which says:  "should any product purchased from us no longer perform as =
originally intended due to wear, workmanship, or even accidental damage, =
return it to us with return postage prepaid, and we will either replace =
or repair it at or option for as long as you own it - no if's, and's or =
but's."=20

I don't know which provision of their warranty my claim fell under, but =
it doesn't make any difference because they returned the bags with =
replacement and repair of all the pieces that were damaged.

Richard in Tucson
'94 KLR650
'86 VFR750


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 13:36:18 -0700
From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) 1/2 Day So. CA ride?

> If you're including folks from SOCal, don't forget the San Franciscans!
:)
>
> Enjoy your ride.
>
This is confusing, years back, when Northern Californians were talking about
making their own state, separate from SOCal, they included San Fran in
Northern CA.  I kind of wish they'd do that in my state, bust it up into
Eastern and Western Washington.  It really sucks when all the politicians
care about is the economy of the west side, where the population centers
are, and the farmers and other people living in the east can just bend over
and take it.  Things were a little better over here back in the day when Tom
Foley was the Speaker of the House.  (He's from Spokane.)

Jeff


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 13:50:21 -0700
From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR  Help!!  (oil change problems)

Before you change the old oil out, add some motor flushing solvent.  You can
find it at the car parts stores usually.  You warm the motor up, then add
the flush (I'd say no more than 500 cc's or so for the motorcycle crankcase,
for a car it would be the entire quart), and let it idle for 5-10 minutes,
then drain it all out right away.  On the oil filter, there is a drain bolt
near the bottom right hand side of the crank case, look for a passage that
goes down from the oil filter cover area and that is it, take out this bolt
to drain the oil filter cavity.  After that, carefully remove the 3 8mm
bolts on the oil filter cover, and gently pry off the cover with your hands
only.  It is tight due to the o-ring seal, but it will come off.  Make sure
that you get the metal tube out from the middle of the oil filter!  If you
don't have one, then you need to get one!  Anyway, let that motor drain all
day, or over night.  It also helps to tip it from side to side.  Put in the
new filter with the metal tube (the tube will only install one direction,
don't force it.), reinstall the cover (be mindful of not stripping the cover
bolts.), reinstall the drain bolt, then add 2.5 liters of oil, regardless of
where the level is in the sight window, add 2.5 quarts.

I'm guessing that this will solve your problem, I think that the color you
saw might have been from contaminated oil in the oil filter gallery, but if
you notice the oil is again milky, then I'd suspect your water pump seal.  I
haven't touched mine, so I can't walk you through that one, but I'm sure
someone on the list can.

Jeff--hope this is helpful!



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 13:55:21 -0700
From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cam Chain and Top End

> My Tengai has about 23,500 miles on it. The cam chain 20 link length is
> 127.0 mm. I measured this with a caliper at two separate points on the cam
> chain. This spec is at the bottom of the range provided in the service
> manual. My tensioner still has plenty of travel left in it. I think that
> the chain is probably good for 40-50K.

I don't think that chain stretch vs. engine hours (or mileage) is  linear
relationship, I think that a stress vs. strain diagram for the chain will
show that it begins to stretch at a faster rate over time, something to keep
in mind.

Changing the intake timing is a pretty bold step!  I think that I would have
tested it around the block before commuting on it.

Jeff


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 13:58:08 -0700
From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR  Help!!  (oil change problems)

> P.S. I wonder if fresh oil has a certain amount of moisture out of the
> bottle that could be causing this?
>
No, I seriously doubt it!  (Oil + water = a large boundary of clear fluid ON
TOP that you would definitely notice.)

Jeff


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 14:02:38 -0700
From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Anti-Seize Alternative

 Could someone explain to me in layman's terms where and how this gasket
product should be applied before re-installation of the valve cover. The
shop manuals seem to show it being applied only under the left side of the
existing rubber gasket. Should it be applied in a bead or spread thin over
the gasket surface, and how thick in either case?

The manual says a silicon based non-hardening sealant.  You are right, only
on the left underside of the gasket surface.  Only use a VERY thin coat,
just enough to cover the gasket surface and that is all.  When you reinstall
the valve cover, any more would squeeze out and possibly go into the engine.
Many have had good luck with not using any at all, but if the valve cover is
going to leak, this is the spot it will leak from.  DON'T over torque those
valve cover bolts!  The torque is in inch-pounds.

Jeff


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 14:10:23 -0700
From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Postpartum Valve Check Interval

> There's little doubt about the importance of the first valve clearance
> check. And everybody eventually gets it done somehow/someday.  Mine was at
> 3500 miles.
> The question is:
> Once the initial check/adjustment is done, what is the "real" mileage
until
> the next check is needed?
> My bike now has 8000 miles on it.  Do I need to check the valves again
this
> winter while the bike is in storage?
> Thanks.
> Bob Kaub
>
In all my experience in maintaining stuff, from my own bikes and vehicles,
to military weapons, equipment and vehicles, the best thing to do is always
follow the maintenance schedule that they give in the book.  If you were
late doing a scheduled maintenance, don't adjust the schedule, just check
off the late maintenance as for the time when it SHOULD have been done, and
continue with the schedule like normal.  Makes life a lot easier, even
though it might be inconvenient at the time.  Oil is pretty cheap, and so I
don't mind if my last oil interval on my car went only 3,000 miles instead
of the scheduled 5000 miles.

Jeff

Jeff


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 14:21:04 -0700
From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Postpartum Valve Check Interval

> >Bob, I checked mine at 500, 1500, 3000, and 6,000. It needed adjustment
> >at each interval...
>
> I'm sure this has come up before, but I'm still relatively new here. WHY
> shims? Screw-type adjusters are so much easier, and there's no replacement
> of anything, except for maybe the cam chain. Shims just seem to be such a
> pain in the ass. It isn't because it would increase the height of the
> cylinder, is it?
>
Its a matter of tolerance and hardness, as well as the height of the head in
the frame.  Shim adjusters can go for longer intervals before adjustment
because of a few reasons, the geometry is simpler for one, an the clearances
can be smaller, (a tighter valve train) therefore providing more
performance.  Most importantly though, both the surfaces of the cam lobes
and the valve shims have been both heat tempered and work hardened, which
amounts to a very hard surface that wears very little.

Sure, adjusting the valves on the Honda RFVC heads is very easy, but then it
has to be done twice as often.

Jeff


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------------------------------

End of klr650-digest V2 #1054
*****************************