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From: owner-hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com (hist_text-digest)
To: hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com
Subject: hist_text-digest V1 #716
Reply-To: hist_text
Sender: owner-hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com
Errors-To: owner-hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com
Precedence: bulk
hist_text-digest Friday, January 26 2001 Volume 01 : Number 716
In this issue:
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá RE: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá MtMan-List: Wislizenus
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá MtMan-List: lead
-áááááá MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: lead and molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá RE: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Jeremiah Johnson & BC
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá MtMan-List: H&H Barrels
-áááááá MtMan-List: cooking possibles?
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: cooking possibles?
-áááááá MtMan-List: Suspenders
-áááááá Re: RE: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: cooking possibles?
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds(ball and patch tightness)
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Jeremiah Johnson & BC
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds(ball and patch tightness)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 00:17:37 -0800
From: "Possum Hunter" <icurapossum_hunter2@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
Tim Jewell wrote:
> I have couple of questions. Does anyone know of a source for period
correct round ball molds for a .58 cal. I am also looking for a lead ladle
and or/melting pot for use over a campfire.
In the old days, the mold was supplied by the gun maker. Many were made of
wood. The shooter would roll the lead ball between t pieces of wood to true
it up before he shot it. Personally, I use a Lyman mold. You can get a cast
iron pot and ladle at any plumbing supply house or from Dixie Gun Works.
www.dixiegun.com
>
> Next questions is about lead. I have about a dozen 75lb lead bars that
were used for ballast in a sail boat. Is there any way to determine if
these would be suitable for melting down and casting into round balls?
Use the "thumbnail test" If you can cut off a sliver of the lead with your
thumbnail, it is soft enough to use in your muzzleloader.
Hope this helps,
Possum
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 23:25:03 -0600
From: Todd <farseer@swbell.net>
Subject: RE: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
Rapine makes period bag moulds in nearly every calibre. They run 48.95 =
for the bag moulds. Web site is www.bulletmoulds.com I think. For =
what it's worth, Mel Gibson used a Rapine to cast his roundball in the =
Patriot. You can see the name on the handles in one of the close-ups if =
you look close.=20
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-hist_text@lists.xmission.com
> [mailto:owner-hist_text@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of Tim Jewell
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 10:42 PM
> To: hist_text@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
>=20
>=20
> Hello the list,
>=20
> I have couple of questions. Does anyone know of a source for period=20
> correct round ball molds for a .58 cal. I am also looking for a lead=20
> ladle and or/melting pot for use over a campfire.
>=20
> Next questions is about lead. I have about a dozen 75lb lead bars =
that=20
> were used for ballast in a sail boat. Is there any way to determine =
if=20
> these would be suitable for melting down and casting into round balls?
>=20
> I remain y.m.h.s.,
> Tim=20
>=20
>=20
> ----------------------
> hist_text list info: =
http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
>=20
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hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 23:15:57 -0700
From: Dean Rudy <drudy@xmission.com>
Subject: MtMan-List: Wislizenus
The latest addition to the "Mountain Men and the Fur Trade" website
(www.mtmen.org) is "A Journey to the Rocky Mountains in 1839" by Frederick
A. Wislizenus. Wislizenus was a medical doctor who traveled with the
Chouteau, Pratte, & Co. caravan to the Rocky Mountains in 1839. His book,
published soon after his return, contains first-hand observations of the
crossing of the plains, the Rendezvous of 1839, Ft Hall, Ft Crocket, etc,
and the wildlife and Indians encountered along the way. This primary
source is out of print, but I think it deserves wider circulation. It is
available for free downloading at the website mentioned above.
YMHOS,
Dean Rudy
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hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 02:16:41 EST
From: GazeingCyot@cs.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
Hello in the camp
Good to see some smoke, I was beginning to think that I had been kicked off
the list.
Tim I use a Rapine mold, can't be beat. When you order your mold for your .58
get eather .565 or .56 mold size. That way your ball will be loose enough
that you will not need a ball starter and you can thumb start them. They
still will shoot true and will load a lot easier. For a ladle I have a small
hand foraged folding one that fits in my bag. It has a socket in the end that
I can put a stick in for a handle. It is small I can only melt enough lead to
run a couple of balls at a time. Works well in the field but to get your 75
lb. bar melted down to a size that can be used in the field. You will want to
get something larger or your going to have to chop that baby up in to a lot
of little bitty peace's. Any cast Iron pot will do for that but you will
still have to cut the bar in to peace small enough to fit in the pot. That's
the fun part and I have not found an ease way to do it. I use an old hand saw
to get started and finish with an ax and a large hammer and a lot of sweet.
If the lead is soft enough that you can score it with your thumbnail then it
is soft enough to shoot.
See ya on the
trail
Crazy Cyot
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hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 05:39:07 -0600
From: "Lanney Ratcliff" <amm1585@hyperusa.com>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
Crazy wrote:
Any cast Iron pot will do for that but you will
still have to cut the bar in to peace small enough to fit in the pot.
Tim
Once you use a pot to melt lead NEVER use that pot for food
again....ever.....especially an iron pot.
The amount of lead that you should ingest is zero point zero....none.
YMOS
Lanney Ratcliff
- ----------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 07:44:00 -0600
From: "Frank Fusco" <frankf@centurytel.net>
Subject: MtMan-List: lead
Tim asked,
<I have about a dozen 75lb lead bars that
were used for ballast in a sail boat. Is there any way to determine if
these would be suitable for melting down and casting into round balls?>
Tim, unless you have access to a sophisticated hardness tester, the time
honored 'thumbnail' test is the way to go. Ifn you can easily gouge it with
your thumbnail it is probably OK. If its hard like a wheel weight, not OK.
Get a wheel weight or modern hard cast bullet to use for comparison.
Frank G. Fusco
Mountain Home, Arkansas
- ----------------------
hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 08:42:11 -0600
From: "Glenn Darilek" <llsi@texas.net>
Subject: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
Ladle? We don't need no stinkin' ladle. :o)
In Lewis Garrard's "Wah to Yah.." he wrote that the mountaineers just
hollowed out a depression in a stick of wood, put bits of lead in it and put
it into a hot fire. The lead would melt before the wood burned up. I have
tried this and it works. The only thing is that some lead will be
inevitably be accidentally poured into the fire. I wouldn't hang around
such a fire breathing the fumes very long.
Glenn Darilek
Iron Burner
Tim Jewell <tjewell@home.com> wrote"
> I am also looking for a lead
>ladle and or/melting pot for use over a campfire.
- ----------------------
hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 10:11:29 EST
From: BrayHaven@aol.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
In a message dated 1/25/2001 6:38:07 AM Eastern Standard Time,
amm1585@hyperusa.com writes:
<< Tim
Once you use a pot to melt lead NEVER use that pot for food
again....ever.....especially an iron pot.
The amount of lead that you should ingest is zero point zero....none.
YMOS
Lanney Ratcliff >>
Now I know what's wrong with me! All those quail & ducks I ate, full of
birdshot.
Greg
- ----------------------
hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 09:16:33 -0800
From: "Roger Lahti" <rtlahti@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
Works well in the field but to get your 75
> lb. bar melted down to a size that can be used in the field. You will want
to
> get something larger or your going to have to chop that baby up in to a
lot
> of little bitty peace's.
Crazy,
I have had to reduce some large chunks of lead to usable sizes myself. I
found that I could train a propane torch at one end and get just that end to
melt and run molten lead into a smaller container/ingot mold/ etc. I also
have had good luck cutting lead bricks with my band saw. Doesn't hurt the
blade if it is relativly soft lead but one can dedicate a particular blade
for that purpose.
Any cast Iron pot will do for that but you will
> still have to cut the bar in to peace small enough to fit in the pot.
Actually a steel enamel ware bucket (spun or press formed with no soldered
seams) would work. In fact I have one that really is so dented up with
enamel chipped off that it isn't much good for anything but wash water. I'm
sure it would work fine for melting down a large amount of lead in chunks or
bricks otherwise too big for the usual cast iron lead pot. Just be careful
with that much melted lead suspended over a fire. It could be dipped out
into smaller molds or poured if one is careful.
Hope that adds to the ideas.
Capt. Lahti'
- ----------------------
hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 12:47:41 -0500
From: "Tim Jewell" <tjewell@home.com>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: lead and molds
Thanks to all for the great info. My mold is on order and I did the
thumbnail test and scratched the lead pretty easily.
I hollowed out five cavities in a 2X6 that I figure should make about 1lb
ingots. Now all I have to do is get on of these things cut into managable
size pieces and start casting.
Just one more question about lead though. If I'm patching properly when I
load and the rifling is not cutting my patches, why would it matter whether
the lead was soft or hard. May be a "greenhorn" question but it popped into
my mind as I was writing this.
Thanks again.
I remain y.m.h.s.
Tim
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hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 13:45:04 -0500
From: hawknest4@juno.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
tim
if its clean lead and you want to use it mold a couple of bullets out of
it---then drop the bullet at about head height on a concrete floor---if
it dings the bullet then its soft enough for bullets---you can also cook
the fire out of it and do a lot of skimming that will get a lot of the
stuff out of it and on some ocasions get enough of the stuff that makes
it hard out and then it will be usable---
suggest you check the archives as we just had a disertation on testing
lead a while back and it gave a bunch of simple tests and a lot of info
on cleaning---dont use any flux when you cook and melt and skim the
lead---also dont do a lot of sturing after the first melt only skim the
top ---this removes a bit of the things that makes the lead hard---
just my humbel opinion of course---
Nuff said---
"HAWK"
Michael Pierce "Home of ".Old Grizz" Product line " trademark (C)
854 Glenfield Dr.
Palm Harbor florida 34684 Phone Number: 1-727-771-1815
E-Mail: hawknest4@juno.com Web site:
http://www.angelfire.com/fl2/mpierce
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 20:07:18 -0600
From: Todd <farseer@swbell.net>
Subject: RE: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
Do most folks shoot that far under size? I benched my gun, and I got =
tighter groups with the .495 than I did with .490. I have to use a =
shortie, which I don't like, but I like being more accurate. =20
- ----------------------
hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 22:48:05 EST
From: BrayHaven@aol.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
In a message dated 1/25/2001 9:08:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
farseer@swbell.net writes:
<< Do most folks shoot that far under size? I benched my gun, and I got
tighter groups with the .495 than I did with .490. I have to use a
shortie, which I don't like, but I like being more accurate.
>>
I have always had best (accuracy) result using the actual bore size. For my
50 I use a .500 ball mould which actually throws about a .498 ball when
cooled. I use a .451 mould for the 45 etc. I use a brass short starter (and
hammer).
Greg Sefton
- ----------------------
hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 22:00:33 -0600
From: "Lanney Ratcliff" <amm1585@hyperusa.com>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
>>
I have always had best (accuracy) result using the actual bore size. For my
50 I use a .500 ball mould which actually throws about a .498 ball when
cooled. I use a .451 mould for the 45 etc. I use a brass short starter
(and
hammer).
Greg Sefton
How well does that work for subsequent shots? Is fouling not a problem?
Lanney Ratcliff
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hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 23:11:43 EST
From: BrayHaven@aol.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
In a message dated 1/25/2001 10:59:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
amm1585@hyperusa.com writes:
<< How well does that work for subsequent shots? Is fouling not a problem?
Lanney Ratcliff
>>
I usually run a patch & jag with solvent on it (blacksolve etc) about every
8-10 shots and shoot all day. Depending on the patch lube you may not even
have to do that. Spit patch etc with a little cleaning action may keep it
clean enough.
Greg
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 22:19:57 -0600
From: "Lanney Ratcliff" <amm1585@hyperusa.com>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
I usually run a patch & jag with solvent on it (blacksolve etc) about every
8-10 shots and shoot all day. Depending on the patch lube you may not even
have to do that. Spit patch etc with a little cleaning action may keep it
clean enough.
Who would've thunk it. Very interesting information. Wooden ramrod??
Lanney
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hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 23:35:44 EST
From: ThisOldFox@aol.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
> Who would've thunk it. Very interesting information. Wooden ramrod??
Lanny,
Lest everyone get confused with the tight ball situation:
This is only possible in a rifle with deep grooves. The patch has to have
somewhere to go. Trying to do it in a late model repro with shallow grooves
will probably get you nowhere. Doing it in a smoothbore will get you even
less, because it's almost impossible.
As far as fouling goes, most folks over-lubricate their patches, which leads
to increased fouling. Temp and humidity also have much to do with it.
Target shooters load much different than field shooters, and that fact should
always be taken into consideration when someone posts their pet load. It
might not work for you because you don't have their gun.
Dave Kanger
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 22:43:52 -0600
From: "Lanney Ratcliff" <amm1585@hyperusa.com>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
TOF wrote:
It might not work for you because you don't have their gun.
I doubt very much it would work with any of mine, least of all the
smoothbore. I figured that there were significant differences involved. My
blackpowder shooting is not nearly as extensive as is many others and was
glad for the information...and yours.
Thanks
Lanney
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 02:43:16 EST
From: GazeingCyot@cs.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
Got one question for ya how well does that tight ass ball go down after you
have made one shot at an Elk and your in a hurry to get that second shot in
be for it gets away. Short starters were not used all that much back then and
I do not think they were used at all by the mountain men. I have broke to
many ram rods in the field to ever want to mess with that tight a ball. If I
can take the head off a Grouse a twenty yard and drop an Elk at 130 yards
with a ball that is .020 under sized that's good enough for me.
Crazy Cyot
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 06:52:20 -0700
From: "Walt Foster" <Wfoster@cw2.com>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Jeremiah Johnson & BC
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Buck Conner" <conner1@qwest.net>
> One report about his size and hardness when a deputy sheriff in Custer
was - Mr.
> Johnson hitting the town bully in the chest and driving him through a
solid
> fence, he was in his late 60's at the time. No doubt about his ability in
the
> mountain or in town, he was one hell of a man, at any age.
> Later,> Buck Conner
Hey Buck,
What makes you think Jeremiah Johnson in Custer, Montana?
Walt
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 08:55:26 EST
From: BrayHaven@aol.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
In a message dated 1/25/2001 11:19:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
amm1585@hyperusa.com writes:
<< Who would've thunk it. Very interesting information. Wooden ramrod??
Lanney
>>
Hate to admit it, but, on the range I use a fiberglass extra long one with a
T handle. (better living through chemistry) Wood for hunting etc.
Greg
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 09:02:17 EST
From: BrayHaven@aol.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
In a message dated 1/25/2001 11:37:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ThisOldFox@aol.com writes:
<< This is only possible in a rifle with deep grooves. The patch has to have
somewhere to go. Trying to do it in a late model repro with shallow grooves
will probably get you nowhere. Doing it in a smoothbore will get you even
less, because it's almost impossible. >>
Good point Dave. Most of the good barrels like Green Mountain have good dee
grooves. Recover a ball and see if the patch is imprinted in it all the way
around in the lands as well as the grooves to see if you're getting good
(best)"grab". Some of those spaghetti barrels (with negligible rifling) need
to go .010 undersize to have good loading. Experiment with your gun and find
the combination that works best. Try to borrow some different size bullets
or buy them before you invest in a mould that might not be ideal for your
gun. Try different patching (& lubing) combinations. I find pillow ticking
with about 3 washes does well with all my guns with deep grooves. Doesn't
work well in my Lyman plains pistol.
Greg Sefton
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 09:13:09 EST
From: BrayHaven@aol.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
In a message dated 1/26/2001 2:44:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
GazeingCyot@cs.com writes:
<< Got one question for ya how well does that tight ass ball go down after
you
have made one shot at an Elk and your in a hurry to get that second shot in
be for it gets away. Short starters were not used all that much back then
and
I do not think they were used at all by the mountain men. I have broke to
many ram rods in the field to ever want to mess with that tight a ball. If I
can take the head off a Grouse a twenty yard and drop an Elk at 130 yards
with a ball that is .020 under sized that's good enough for me.
Crazy Cyot >>
I always use a tight ball for my first load and use thin patching or smaller
balls,, depending on the gun for quick loads that I have pre-measured for
hunting. I always shoot tight balls at the range for accuracy though, where
speed isn't necesarily important. You can use a half thickness patch with a
bore size ball and it works fine. Also once the ball is started using a bore
size ball, I don't find it any harder to push home than a small ball. Just
my .02. I wouldn't shoot at an elk at 130 yards with a black powder rifle.
But that's me :o).
Greg
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 09:20:16 EST
From: BrayHaven@aol.com
Subject: MtMan-List: H&H Barrels
Anyone know what ever happend to H&H barrels. I toured their plant in Ocala,
FL some years ago and bought a few barrels from them that shoot great. They
moved away shortly after that. Did they go under, or just break camp and
move to new trappings?
Greg Sefton
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 10:58:00 EST
From: BrayHaven@aol.com
Subject: MtMan-List: cooking possibles?
I headed out to the forge to build some fire goods for my camp and couldn't
recall just how a pot crane that swings over the fire was made. Anyone have
drawings of this stuff or a link to it that you can send. Thanks,
Greg Sefton
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 09:07:04 -0800
From: "Roger Lahti" <rtlahti@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: cooking possibles?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <BrayHaven@aol.com>
To: <hist_text@lists.xmission.com>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 7:58 AM
Subject: MtMan-List: cooking possibles?
> I headed out to the forge to build some fire goods for my camp and
couldn't
> recall just how a pot crane that swings over the fire was made. Anyone
have
> drawings of this stuff or a link to it that you can send. Thanks,
Greg,
Couldn't be simpler. All you need is a post of iron for the "arm" to pivot
on. Make the arm long enough so it goes from the side of the fire (where you
drove the post into the ground) to the center with a hook in one end and a
"spiral" coil that wraps down the post a couple/4 inches. The weight of the
"arm" with or without pot will "bind" the "arm" at what ever elevation you
place it and you can slide it up and down the post to adust height. If you
make it so that it "hooks" behind the post, drops down a few inches and
"hooks" in front rather than sprialing down, you can lift it up and "unhook"
it so it can be replaced with an arm that just has a point in it or two
forks for roasting a chunk of meat. Course you could do that with a forked
stick too, which grow wild almost every where.
Now if you want to actually be authentic and do it like the Mountain Men and
Trappers and their camp tenders did it you can simplify even more. (they
didn't pack a bunch of iron around with them for cooking, it was probably
not even seen much, if at all at Rendezvous)
Make a tripod of three long saplings ( 4-1/2' to 5-1/2' long) of thumb size
or a bit bigger and secure them about 4' off the ground with a length of
cord that will have a loop in the free end and be long enough to go from
where it ties around the poles to close to ground level and back up to the
upper tips of the upright tripod legs.
I like to secure it around the tripod with a clove hitch and a couple more
half hitches, kinda like how you tie a tipi tripod to start with. Spread the
tripod of poles over your fire so the base's aren't too close to the fire.
Take your pot and pass the cord through the bail and back up to the tips of
the tripod poles. Wrap the cord around the tips to use up extra length to
raise the pot off the fire. Use the loop in the end of the cord to drop over
a knot or pole tip to keep it safe. I like to tie a bowline in the end of
the cord since it is easy to tie and easy to untie after your through. Undo
the wraps and raise or lower the pot as needed. Shift the tripod legs to
shift the pot around the fire.
Undo the cord and grab at the loop end and just below the tie point to "walk
the pot off the fire and down onto the ground so you can pick it up. Just
take up the weigh of the pot so the cord is not pulling down on the tripod
anymore and as you lift the tied end, lower the loop end. The pot will slide
along the cord and out away from the fire. Lower it to the ground similarly.
You can dedicate a length of cord for this purpose or make one up wherever
you are. Same with the poles. Cut some fresh willow or alder, etc. "whips"
at camp or carry some, though once they dry out they will tend to scorch and
could burn with a hot fire close by. If your bent on carrying iron, you
could make a similar arraignment with small chain fitted with a hook at one
end though it is hardly necessary to carry such an extra item. You can also
use the cord to tie up your bedroll, etc. If it is made of stout material
and not fuzzy it will not burn readily even if it is cotton or linen. Do not
use cord that has a synthetic material like nylon in it. This will melt and
drop your pot in the fire.
You can make up such an arraignment for almost any size or weight of pot,
cast iron, tin or copper you care to carry that will be strong enough to
hold the pot.
Or you can file a round notch close to the end of your camp knife with a
chainsaw file to "catch" the bail with your knife tip (won't slide off with
that notch in it). Place the pot directly on the coals or next to the fire,
wherever you get the right heat. No fire irons, no tripod rigging, no hot
pad! Light load! <G>
Capt. Lahti'
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 12:55:20 EST
From: SWcushing@aol.com
Subject: MtMan-List: Suspenders
Hallo the List,
Does anyone know how long suspenders have been around? ....(and not the
elastic type) When you're built like a plumb, belts don't get it...... I am,
of course, pretty lean... but my pistol, knife, and hawk tend to pull my
breeches down....:o)
Ymos,
Magpie
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 13:15:13 EST
From: SWzypher@aol.com
Subject: Re: RE: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
In a message dated 1/25/1 07:08:15 PM, farseer@swbell.net writes:
<<Do most folks shoot that far under size? >>
I have had a Green River Hawken for a quarter of a century, plus, and tried
several different calibers. Nothing works as good as a .526 for me.
RJames
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 13:25:23 EST
From: SWzypher@aol.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
In a message dated 1/26/1 12:44:04 AM, GazeingCyot@cs.com writes:
<<Got one question for ya how well does that tight ass ball go down after you
have made one shot at an Elk and your in a hurry to get that second shot in
be for it gets away. Short starters were not used all that much back then and
I do not think they were used at all by the mountain men. I have broke to
many ram rods in the field to ever want to mess with that tight a ball. If I
can take the head off a Grouse a twenty yard and drop an Elk at 130 yards
with a ball that is .020 under sized that's good enough for me.
Crazy Cyot
>>
I have to buy into your philosophies, Yote. Years ago in the mountains of
southern Utah I was hunting wild goats with 4 other brothers. We were just
getting snap shots and after a while I couldn't even get a patched .526 down
a .54 bore. It came to putting a few balls in my mouth and spitting them
into the fouled bore and then shoving them down with the ramrod. Yes, I did
get one and then slept back to back with Clemin Flintlocker on a sandstone
mattress for the coldest night of my life.
R.James
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 13:54:22 EST
From: SWzypher@aol.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: cooking possibles?
In a message dated 1/26/1 10:07:55 AM, rtlahti@email.msn.com writes:
<< Place the pot directly on the coals or next to the fire,
wherever you get the right heat. No fire irons, no tripod rigging, no hot
pad! Light load! <G>>>
Something else that works is when digging your firepit, make it keyhole
shaped. The trench part (as opposed to the round part) is narrower than your
cooking pot or pan or whatever. As coals develop in the round pit, scoot
them into the trench and just put your utinsel a-straddle the coals but
resting on the ground. Works as good as any grill I have ever seen and gives
you a more controled heat as you are using coals rather than flame.
R.James
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 14:59:10 -0500
From: hawknest4@juno.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds
todd
in my bench guns I use a .015 .017 patch and a bore size bullet and load
with a rawhide mallet which has a short starter on one side----
Nuff said---
"HAWK"
Michael Pierce "Home of ".Old Grizz" Product line " trademark (C)
854 Glenfield Dr.
Palm Harbor florida 34684 Phone Number: 1-727-771-1815
E-Mail: hawknest4@juno.com Web site:
http://www.angelfire.com/fl2/mpierce
________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 15:20:27 -0500
From: hawknest4@juno.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds(ball and patch tightness)
lanny
in my experience with tight fitting patch and ball combinations is that
they seem to shoot cleaner or there is less crud in the barrel especially
if you use a water sol lube like moose milk---old grizz or lehi-valley
that keeps the fouling soft---with grizz i dont even clean between shots
with my bench gun for a 5 shot match plus a couple of sighters---and have
shot a bunch of 4 and 5 X scores---I like a tight bullet in a bench or
target rifle---
but thats just my humbel bias opinion of course---
Nuff said----
YMHOSANT
=+=
"HAWK"
Michael Pierce "Home of ".Old Grizz" Product line " trademark (C)
854 Glenfield Dr.
Palm Harbor florida 34684 Phone Number: 1-727-771-1815
E-Mail: hawknest4@juno.com Web site:
http://www.angelfire.com/fl2/mpierce
________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 15:40:13 -0500
From: hawknest4@juno.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Jeremiah Johnson & BC
walt
the brothers of the amm buried the suposed remains of him there in the
70's---
"HAWK"
Michael Pierce "Home of ".Old Grizz" Product line " trademark (C)
854 Glenfield Dr.
Palm Harbor florida 34684 Phone Number: 1-727-771-1815
E-Mail: hawknest4@juno.com Web site:
http://www.angelfire.com/fl2/mpierce
________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 16:06:51 -0700
From: "Ole B. Jensen" <olebjensen@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds(ball and patch tightness)
Hawk,
I have an original 1814 Common Rifle, 54 cal in mint condition. The muzzle
is slightly coned for the first 2" which makes it possible to start a bullet
without a short start. I have come to think that this may have been the way
they did it.
I have used the same 3/8" hickory ramrod for 20+ years, a lot of ramrods are
made from dowel material and is too week and the grain will not stand the
stress. You can purchase Hickory from "Track of the Wolf.
YMOS
Ole # 718
- ----------
>From: hawknest4@juno.com
>To: hist_text@lists.xmission.com
>Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Bullet molds(ball and patch tightness)
>Date: Fri, Jan 26, 2001, 1:20 PM
>
>lanny
>in my experience with tight fitting patch and ball combinations is that
>they seem to shoot cleaner or there is less crud in the barrel especially
>if you use a water sol lube like moose milk---old grizz or lehi-valley
>that keeps the fouling soft---with grizz i dont even clean between shots
>with my bench gun for a 5 shot match plus a couple of sighters---and have
>shot a bunch of 4 and 5 X scores---I like a tight bullet in a bench or
>target rifle---
>
>but thats just my humbel bias opinion of course---
>Nuff said----
>YMHOSANT
> =+=
> "HAWK"
>Michael Pierce "Home of ".Old Grizz" Product line " trademark (C)
>854 Glenfield Dr.
>Palm Harbor florida 34684 Phone Number: 1-727-771-1815
>E-Mail: hawknest4@juno.com Web site:
>http://www.angelfire.com/fl2/mpierce
>
>________________________________________________________________
>GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
>Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
>http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
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>
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